COMPOSITIONS AND PROCESSES OF KERATIN FIBERS
A synergistic composition of amino acids, osmolytes, carboxylic acids, and cationic surfactants addresses hair damage from chemical treatments by strengthening and stabilizing keratin fibers, enhancing hair health and resilience.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024004708
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-06
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-05-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments that alter color or shape, such as bleaching, dyeing, straightening, and perming, cause significant damage to keratin fibers by breaking chemical bonds, leading to weakened, brittle, and easily breakable hair.
A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, carboxylic acids, cationic surfactants, and solvents in a composition with a pH less than 7, applied to keratin fibers to repair and strengthen hair, reducing elasticity and preventing further damage.
The composition effectively reduces signs of damage, increasing hair strength and reducing elasticity, resulting in healthier, less brittle hair that maintains its shape and appearance.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR PROCESSING KERATIN FIBERS technical field
[0001] This disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example to repair damaged keratin fibers, provide strength to keratin fibers and / or to reduce the elasticity of keratin fibers. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers wish to use cosmetic compositions and processes to change or improve the appearance of their hair, for example, by altering the color, style, and / or shape of the hair, and / or by imparting various properties to the hair, such as shine and revitalization. However, many compositions and processes for altering the appearance of hair, such as permanent color or shape modification compositions and processes, involve harsh chemical treatments. In addition, repeated styling can cause hair damage, for example, due to the repeated use of heat and styling tools. All these processes can break the bonds within the hair fibers, which, if not reformed, result in damaged hair.
[0003] For example, hair lightening and dyeing compositions and processes generally require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds such as oxidizing agents. In order to change the color of the hair, these components must first break down the natural components of the hair fibers. Similarly, straightening, relaxing, and perming compositions also involve aggressive chemicals to alter the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair fibers.
[0004] It is known that, although such processes effectively alter the color and shape of hair, the chemical agents used inherently cause damage to the hair and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, straightened, smoothed, curled, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally appears unhealthy to the touch and in appearance. Furthermore, damaged hair is brittle and / or exhibits increased elasticity, resulting in more frequent breakage. As such, consumers Consumers are looking for compositions and processes to prevent or minimize such damage and / or to repair hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes. In particular, they want strong hair that doesn't break easily, that can be stretched or manipulated while retaining the ability to return to its original state without breaking (i.e., with reduced elasticity), that is soft and healthy to the touch, and that also looks shiny and healthy.
[0005] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily meet these requirements. For example, some compositions that attempt to solve the problem simply coat the hair with compounds that may improve its feel and appearance; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach merely masks the damage until the next rinse or wash. Other compositions attempt to treat the damage within the hair fiber, but have not been satisfactory to date.
[0006] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is remarkably effective in preventing or minimizing hair damage and treating damaged hair. Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure shows remarkably reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, particularly hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc. SUMMARY
[0007] This disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating keratin fibers, for example, human hair, for example, to prevent, minimize, or repair hair damage such as damage caused by harsh chemical compositions and processes. The compositions comprise a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, one or more osmolytes, and one or more carboxylic acids, and the processes comprise applying a composition according to the disclosure to keratin fibers, for example, hair that has been or will be chemically treated. The compositions are remarkably stable with a durable texture even when subjected to high temperatures.
[0008] In various embodiments, the disclosure relates to compositions for processing keratin fibers, such as hair, compositions comprising (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, (d) at least one cationic surfactant, and (e) at least one solvent. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7 or less than about 6, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. The compositions are surprisingly stable.
[0009] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example, arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and their salts ranges from approximately 0.1% to approximately 15%, preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, more preferably from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, most preferably from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, and most preferably from approximately 4% to approximately 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example, serine.In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and their salts ranges from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 4%, more preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, and most preferably from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic, and / or neutral amino acids; for example, the compositions may include arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids and their salts present in the composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, most preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0010] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the aforementioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more of these.
[0011] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines, and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from approximately 0.01% to approximately 10%, preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, more preferably from approximately 1.25% to approximately 4%, most preferably from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, and most preferably from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of osmolytes which is equal to or greater than about 0.5, for example greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.
[0012] In various embodiments, at least one carboxylic acid is chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. Optionally, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts may range from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, most preferably from about 4% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0013] The compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The cationic surfactants may, for example, be selected from primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, or combinations of two or more of these. Useful quaternary ammonium salts include those of formulas (III)-(VI), for example, cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride, and useful fatty amine salts include, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.Optionally, the total amount of cationic surfactants may range from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 6%, and more preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of [amino acids and their salts + osmolytes] and the total amount of cationic surfactants greater than about 1 and up to about 20, for example from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 1.25 to about 8, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 6, plus . preferably still from about 1.75 to about 5, and most preferably from about 2 to about 4.
[0014] The solvent included in the composition may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent, and in some embodiments comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0015] The compositions may optionally also include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, additional surfactants such as amphoteric surfactants, thickening agents or combinations thereof.
[0016] In some embodiments, the composition may include (a) at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine, preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount of about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, (d) at least one cationic surfactant, (e) at least one solvent, and (f) optionally at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, additional surfactants, thickening agents or combinations thereof. For example, in at least some embodiments, the composition includes arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts, for example arginine, serine, their salts, or combinations thereof, and the total amount of betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II) and their salts, for example glycine betaine, which is greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and . the total quantity of carboxylic acids and their salts which is greater than about 0.5 such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of [amino acids and their salts + osmolytes] and the total quantity of cationic surfactants which is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, and up to about 20, for example from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 1.25 to about 8, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 6, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 5, and most preferably from about 2 to about 4.
[0017] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one carboxylic amino acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or its salts, (d) at least one cationic surfactant, and (e) water.The composition may include, for example, (a) about 4% to about 6% arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) about 0.5% to about 3.5% glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably citric acid, lactic acid, and / or their salts, (d) at least one cationic surfactant, (e) water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and (f) possibly serine, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 2% to about 10%, all amounts being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, preferably from approximately 5% to approximately 20%, more preferably from approximately 5% to approximately 15%, and most preferably from approximately 8% to approximately 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and glycine betaine greater than 1, preferably from approximately 1.25 to approximately 3.5, more preferably from approximately 1.5 to approximately 3, more preferably from approximately 1.75 to approximately 2.5, and most preferably from approximately 1.75 to approximately 2.25.In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and their salts and the total quantity of carboxylic acids and their salts that is greater than about 0.5 such as greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of [amino acids and their salts + osmolytes] and the total quantity of cationic surfactants that is greater than . to about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, and up to about 20, for example from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 1.25 to about 8, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 6, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 5, and most preferably from about 2 to about 4. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, additional surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. If present, the compositions include serine in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1%, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.When compositions include serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to serine greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12. When compositions include serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.
[0018] The disclosure further relates to processes for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, including the application of a composition according to the disclosure to the keratin fibers. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0019] [Fig.1] [Fig.1] is a graph showing the elasticity of the hair fibers of the S17-S21 strands after five treatments.
[0020] [Fig.2A]-[Fig.2B] Figures 2A-2B are graphs showing the constraint of breakage of hair fibers treated with compositions according to disclosure and comparative compositions.
[0021] [Fig. 3A]-[Fig. 3B] Figures 3A-3B show the structure of some osmolytes examples that may be included in compositions according to the disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0022] The disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example to repair damaged keratin fibers, provide strength to keratin fibers, and / or reduce the elasticity of keratin fibers. The compositions are remarkably stable with a durable texture even when subjected to high temperatures. I. COMPOSITIONS
[0023] The compositions according to this disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, (d) at least one cationic surfactant, and (e) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components. Amino acids
[0024] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may comprise one, two, or three amino acids. The amino acids that may be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid.
[0025] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes aminocarboxylic acids and their salts, as well as aminosulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood as organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (aminocarboxylic acids) and / or a sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2-OH) (aminosulfonic acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, and a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.
[0026] Amino carboxylic acids that may be chosen include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more of these. Examples of aminosulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these.
[0027] Amino acid salts are also included in the term "amino acid," whether or not this is explicitly stated. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be chosen include organic or mineral salts, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; salts of alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium or calcium salts, and zinc salts.
[0028] Furthermore, amino acids can be of D-, L- or DL- configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to choose amino acids of L- configuration, for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0029] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to choose one or more aminocarboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): COOH (I) H....... C ........N(H), R
[0030] in which:
[0031] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and
[0032] • when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, the latter being able to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from the hydroxyl or alkyl group (in Cl-C4); or
[0033] • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (in C1-C12) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (in C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
[0034] In certain embodiments when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.
[0035] In some embodiments, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched (C1-C4), optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.
[0036] In certain embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the aforementioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of or consist of amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the aforementioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these.
[0037] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the acid or amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts.In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.
[0038] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids can range from about 0.1% to about 15%, such as from about 0.1% to about 12%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5.5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4.5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1%5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2%5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from about 4% to about 5.5%, from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or from about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, or about 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids in any one of the preceding ranges and amounts.
[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise arginine and / or one of its salts. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present, for example, arginine comprises more than about 50%, such as more than about 60%, more than about 70%, more than about 80%, more than about 90%, more than about 95%, more than about 98%, or more than about 99% of all the amino acids present in the composition. In yet another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the composition.
[0040] In various preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, for example, from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%, about 5.1%, approximately 5.2%, approximately 5.3%, approximately 5.4%, or approximately 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the previous values as upper and lower limits.
[0041] In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise serine and / or one of its salts. If present, the amount of serine can range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, such as approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.3%, and approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.2%. from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1%, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0042] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in the compositions according to the disclosure, and to choose total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6. For example, the composition may have a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, such as from about 4 to about 14, from about 6 to about 13, from about 8 to about 12, or from about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, approximately 10, approximately 11 or approximately 12.In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0043] In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits. Osmolytes
[0044] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts and derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethylsulfonopropionate), and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include aminocarboxylic acid derivatives, aminosulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.
[0045] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. Without wishing to develop a theory, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure allows treated hair to maintain a moisture balance, thereby reducing potential hair damage, or to restore a moisture balance to already damaged hair, enabling the treated hair to recover reduced strength and / or elasticity associated with healthy hair.
[0046] In preferred embodiments, the useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from compounds of formula (II) or its salts:
[0047] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)
[0048] in which:
[0049] - RI, R2 and R3 are chosen independently from among the alkyl groups in C1-C4, of preferentially alkyl groups in C1-C2, more preferentially methyl;
[0050] - A is N or S;
[0051] - m and n are independently equal to 0 or 1;
[0052] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and
[0053] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3- ;
[0054] provided that:
[0055] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2;
[0056] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (at C1-C4); and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, this ring being able to be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or alkyl (at C1-C4); and
[0057] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or hydrocarbon chain (in C1-C10), saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (in C1-C6), more preferably (in C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.
[0058] The useful, but not limiting, polyamine compounds may include primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyamines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinylamine, polyetheramine, polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.
[0059] Useful, but not limiting, examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Betaine salts may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise expressly stated. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures 3A-3B. As shown in [Fig. 3A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 3B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X. The counterion is not limited and may be any suitable counterion, for example, a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc.Thus, as used here, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound and the salt forms, whether or not this is specified.
[0060] As shown in Figures 3A and 3B, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"), for example, valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, and / or sulfoniopropionate of dimethyl. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).
[0061] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II), i.e., a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising a total of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0062] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R3 is a methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino. In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched (in Cl-ClO), preferably (C1-C6 alkyl), more preferably (C1-C4 alkyl); a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or not, mono or bicyclic);a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bicyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is a hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl, more preferably an alkyl (C1-C4);optionally substituted with a group selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH or -C0NH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if any) is a divalent alkyl group which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
[0063] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 to 6 ring links, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group.
[0064] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 3A-3B. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include trimethylglycine (name interchangeable with glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).
[0065] Useful, but not limiting, examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example pentoses and / or their derivatives, or hexoses and / or their derivatives. For example, sugars may optionally be chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxyribose, ribulose, deoxyribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are chosen from among the disaccharides, for example sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from among the polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more of these.In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably chosen from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0066] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition can range from about 0.01% to about 15%, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% at approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9% or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0067] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or possibly from about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or of approximately 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0068] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, of about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0069] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose the amounts of amino acids and osmolytes so as to obtain a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition and the total amount of osmolytes in the composition greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, for example, from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total amount of osmolytes can range from more than 1 to about 4, for example from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition and the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower bounds.
[0070] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I) and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):components of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio between compounds of formula (I) and compounds of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2.For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower bounds.
[0071] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids
[0072] The compositions according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the compositions may include at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, the useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-) acid functional groups or more and at least one carbon atom;
[0073] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight less than approximately 500 g / mol, less than approximately 400 g / mol, less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol.
[0074] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid," unless otherwise expressly stated. Salts include organic or mineral-based salts, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.
[0075] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or one of their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid-type compounds described above. Useful (poly)acids include at least one -COOH group (in acid or salt form); they may thus include a single -COOH group (monoacid) or may include more than one, for example, two -COOH groups (in acid or salt form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salt form) (polyacids). Useful (poly)acids also include at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example, one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, (poly)acids comprise a total of 2 to 8 or 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear.In some preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salt form). Unless otherwise specified, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monoacids and polyacids.
[0076] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or one of its salts.
[0077] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0078] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or one of its salts.
[0079] In certain embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In particularly preferred embodiments, The carboxylic acids are chosen from among the α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts. In some embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
[0080] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) can range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1% to about 15%, such as from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1%5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3% from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2,5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 15%from approximately 5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 6% to approximately 15%, from approximately 6% to approximately 12%, from approximately 6% to approximately 10%, from approximately 6% to approximately 9%, from approximately 6% to approximately 8%, from approximately 6% to approximately 7%, or approximately 6% to approximately 6.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, for example from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] In certain embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose quantities of amino acids and carboxylic acids so that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, for example, from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1.35, or from about 0.8 to about 1.2.In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Cationic surfactants
[0083] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more cationic surfactants. The presence of active components such as amino acids and osmolytes causes destabilization of the compositions in which they are present, but it has been discovered that the inclusion of cationic surfactants in the compositions in a weight ratio of [osmolytes + amino acids]:cationic surfactants greater than about 0.5, preferably greater than about 0.75, more preferably greater than about 1, provides stability to the compositions.
[0084] The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition(s) as disclosed. This cationic surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that may be used include primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and combinations thereof.
[0085] Non-limiting examples of useful fatty amine salts include oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamido-propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiidimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0086] Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III) may be chosen as quaternary ammonium salts:
[0087] in which:
[0088] - the R8 to RI 1 groups are chosen independently from the aliphatic groups linear or branched groups containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to RI1 groups including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 12 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible that the linear or branched aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, for example, oxygen, nitrogen and / or sulfur, these heteroatoms not being adjacent, and halogens; and
[0089] - X is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides such as bromides, chlorides, iodides, fluorides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfonates or C1-C4 alkylaryl sulfonates; C1-C30 alkyl groups, C1-C30 alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, C2-C6 alkyl, C12-C22-alkylamido, C12-C22 alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl.
[0090] Examples of embodiments of formula (III) include tetraalkylammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. For example, behentrimonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride may be chosen.
[0091] Other examples include palmitylamidopropyl-trimed thylammonium halides or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyle acetate)-ammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
[0092] In certain embodiments, the cationic surfactants of formula (III) are preferably chosen from among the alkyltrimethylammonium halides whose alkyl group includes from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. For example, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, may be particularly useful.
[0093] In other embodiments, quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (IV) may be chosen: ? T < IV ) $3 .'üX J
[0094] in which:
[0095] - R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
[0096] - RI3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a group alkenyl or alkyl comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
[0097] - R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
[0098] - R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and
[0099] - X is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, and C1-C4 alkyl sulfonates or C1-C4 alkylaryl sulfonates.
[0100] In an exemplary embodiment of formula (IV), R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
[0101] In yet other embodiments, di- or triquaterary ammonium salts of formula (V) may be chosen: rr (V)
[0102] in which:
[0103] - R16 represents an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
[0104] - R17 represents hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 atoms of carbon, or a —(CH2)3—N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a) group
[0105] - R16a, R17a and R18a, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0106] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
[0107] - X is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates and C1-C4 alkyl sulfonates and C1-C4 alkylaryl sulfonates, for example methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
[0108] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex.
[0109] In yet other embodiments, quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (VI), may be chosen: (VI> ; x.{.\
[0110] in which:
[0111] - R22 is selected from the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the hydroxyalkyl groups or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl
[0112] - R23 is chosen from group R26—C(=O)—, the hydrocarbon-based groups in C1-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and a hydrogen atom,
[0113] - R25 is selected from the R28—C(=O)— group; the hydrocarbon-based groups in C1-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and a hydrogen atom,
[0114] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched groups, based on C7-C21 hydrocarbons,
[0115] - r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6,
[0116] - rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,
[0117] - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
[0118] - x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, and
[0119] - X is an anion,
[0120] where r2 + rl = 2r and tl + 12 = 2t, and the sum x + y + z goes from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0, R23 is chosen from among the C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, and that when z = 0, then R25 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated.
[0121] In exemplary embodiments of formula (VI), the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and are preferably linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dihydroxypropyl group, and, more particularly, a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is a C1-C22 hydrocarbon group, it may preferably comprise either 12 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cl1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched Cl1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Optionally, y is equal to 1.Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and optionally equal to 2.
[0122] The anion X is preferably a halide, possibly a chloride, bromide or iodide, a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate or a Cl-C4-aryl alkyl sulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function. The anion X- is preferably a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.
[0123] For example, ammonium salts of formula (VI) in which R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2, R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups; and a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from the group R28—C(=O)—; and a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, may be chosen. Advantageously, hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
[0124] Among the compounds of formula (VI), mention may be made of salts, in particular methyl chloride or methyl sulfate salts, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, as well as mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or oil of sunflower. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
[0125] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylated, with fatty acids or specially prepared mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), a methyl methanesulfonate, a methyl para-toluenesulfonate, a glycol chlorohydrin or a glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0126] The one or more cationic surfactants may be selected, for example, from a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester, and triester salts, with diester salts constituting a major portion by weight. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group may also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may also be used. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
[0127] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behenrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), hectorite, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, POE (10), diethanolammonium oleyl ether phosphate, POE (3) diethanolammonium oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alconium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammonium bentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride,laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine hydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethyl propylenediamine dihydrofluoride, suiftrimonium chloride, bromide, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0128] In preferred embodiments, the compositions as disclosed comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines and / or one or more quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III). In particularly preferred embodiments, the compositions as disclosed comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0129] The total amount of cationic surfactants ranges from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants can range from about 0.5% to about 10%, including about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 1% to about 10%, about 1% to about 8%, about 1% to about 6%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3%, about 1.5% to about 10%, about 1.5% to about 8%, about 1.5% to about 6%, about 1.5% to about 5%, about 1.5% to about 4%, or about 1.5% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0130] In some embodiments, it may be preferable to choose quantities of osmolytes, amino acids, and cationic surfactants relative to each other to provide stability to the compositions. Thus, in preferred embodiments, the composition comprises a total quantity of osmolytes, amino acids, and cationic surfactants such that the composition has a weight ratio of [osmolytes + amino acids]:cationic surfactants that is greater than about 0.5, preferably greater than about 0.75, more preferably greater than about 1, for example, ranging from about 1 to about 20, from about 1.5 to about 18, from about 1.7 to about 15, from about 2 to about 12, from about 2.5 to about 10, or from about 3 to about 8.In other preferred embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio [osmolytes + amino acids]:cationic surfactants ranging from about 1 to about 10, from about 1.25 to about 8, from about 1.5 to about 6, from about 1.75 to about 5, or from about 2 to about 4.
[0131] In particularly preferred embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II) + basic amino acids]:cationic surfactants, which is greater than about 0.5, preferably greater than about 0.75, more preferably greater than about 1, for example ranging from about 1 to about 20, from about 1.5 to about 18, from about 1.7 to about 15, from about 2 to about 12, from about 2.5 to about 10, or from about 3 to about 8, or from about 1 to about 10, from about 1.25 to about 8, from about 1.5 to about 6, from about 1.75 to about 5, or from about 2 to about 4. In even more particularly preferred embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio [glycine betaine + arginine]:cationic surfactants which is greater than about 1, for example from about 1 to about 20, from about 1.5 to about 18, from about 1.7 to about 15, from about 2 to about 12, from about 2.5 to about 10, or from about 3 to about 8, or from about 1 to about 10, from about 1.25 to approximately 8, from approximately 1.5 to approximately 6, from approximately 1.75 to approximately 5, or from approximately 2 to approximately 4. Solvents
[0132] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the solvents may be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents or a combination thereof.
[0133] In some embodiments, the solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, from about 55% to about 90%, from about 60% to about 90%, or from about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] In other embodiments, the solvent may include at least one non-aqueous solvent. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, C1.4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof.The non-aqueous solvent may be chosen from among organic solvents, for example monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
[0135] Preferably, the compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2- C12, C2-C8 polyols, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols may be selected from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 triols, any of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.
[0136] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, may be selected.In some embodiments, the polyols may be selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-Dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-l,2-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more of these.In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more of these. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more of these.In at least some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene. glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.
[0137] If present, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, for example, from about 1% to about 20%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols.In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more of these, preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more of these. more of these. Additional surfactants
[0138] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include at least one surfactant in addition to the cationic surfactants, for example at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include secondary and tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives where the aliphatic radical may be a straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.
[0139] Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium maizemphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium maizemphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium maize amphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium maize amphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, triethanolamine cocaminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanolamine maize amphopropionate, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine maize amphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate triethanolamine, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate,disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, laurylaminopropylglycine, and lauryldiethylenediaminoglycine.
[0140] Betaine-based surfactants can also be used. For example, cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cetyldimethyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethyl betaine, oleyldimethylgamma-carboxypropyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine or cocamidopropyl betaine may be chosen.
[0141] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may range from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.
[0142] Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic and / or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments the compositions comprise less than about 3%, for example less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than 0.75%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.25%, less than 0.2%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, less than 0.01% or less than 0.001% of anionic and / or nonionic surfactants. Fatty compounds
[0143] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0144] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be aminofunctionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane.For example, the composition may include at least one silicone selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, or a mixture of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a silicone oil that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
[0145] As further examples, silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or silicone phenyls, such as trimethicone phenyls, dimethicone phenyls, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0146] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" means any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or more, such as, for example, C8 or more, C10 or more, or C12 or more, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0147] By way of example, fatty alcohols may be selected from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
[0148] The useful, but not limiting, fatty acids may be straight-chain or branched-chain and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids, as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include, or be selected from, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0149] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. Esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10, may be used, for example. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxyalcohols may also be used. By way of non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, the lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methylacetyl ricinoleate, myristyle stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, the octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate,diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoylstearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, the Trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be selected. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or one fatty alcohol ester.for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0150] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that can be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palm kernel glycerides / hydrogenated palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candelilla wax, China wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax;triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of; two or more of any of these waxes. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.
[0151] In certain embodiments, the composition comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (for example, lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, tortoiseshell oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, tamanu oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (for example, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, and / or linear alkanes,branched and / or cyclic fatty acids that are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), optionally branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids (for example, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid), fatty alcohols other than those described above (for example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols), mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (for example, mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 dipentaerythrityl esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters or castor oil polyesters) hydrogenated oils), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils,or mixtures of two or more of these. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include facultatively branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more of these.
[0152] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, for example, from about 1% to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one fatty compound selected from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes, or combinations thereof, where the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents
[0153] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulosic derivatives; synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers and beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymers; acrylate copolymers; polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEL10); natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan; vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly; waxes; associated particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose; celluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and guars, such as hydroxypropyl guar.
[0154] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylate copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.
[0155] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, for example from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components
[0156] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.
[0157] The total quantity of auxiliary components, if present, is generally between approximately 0.01% and 10% of the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual quantities of each component or the total quantity of components may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%. from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3% or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0158] The compositions according to the disclosure generally have a pH less than or equal to 7, for example less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, for example from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0159] The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a gel-cream, a high, medium or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. In preferred embodiments, the composition is a medium or high density cream, such as a hair mask (or hair mask). II. PROCESSES
[0160] The disclosure also relates to processes for treating keratin fibers, such as hair. Hair treatment processes may include processes for reducing or preventing hair damage, protecting hair from damage, restoring the moisture balance of hair fibers, strengthening hair fibers, improving the elasticity of hair fibers, and / or maintaining the balance, strength, and / or elasticity of hair fibers. In some embodiments, the hair treatment processes prevent hair damage from becoming too extensive to repair, namely, they prevent irreversible hair damage.The processes include applying a composition as disclosed to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period ("treatment period", "resting period" or "leave-on period"), and optionally rinsing the hair to remove the composition.
[0161] The application period may last for a period deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the keratin fibers, such as approximately 30 seconds, approximately 1 minute, approximately 2 minutes, approximately 5 minutes, approximately 10 minutes, approximately 15 minutes, approximately 20 minutes, approximately 30 minutes, approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 hours, etc., or may extend over a period of exposure time using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits. As a non-limiting example, the exposure time can range from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 5 minutes, and from approximately 1 minute to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 5 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 20 minutes minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, from about 2 minutes to about 5 minutes, etc.
[0162] In some embodiments, the composition can be left on the hair for a period of several hours, for example overnight. Thus, the application period can be up to about 24 hours, such as up to about 12 hours, for example, can range from about 1 hour to about 12 hours, from about 1 hour to about 10 hours, from about 1 hour to about 8 hours, from about 1 hour to about 6 hours, from about 1 hour to about 4 hours, from about 2 hours to about 12 hours, from about 2 hours to about 10 hours, from about 2 hours to about 8 hours, from about 2 hours to about 6 hours, from about 2 hours to about 4 hours, etc.
[0163] The processes according to the disclosure include the use of the described compositions as a standalone treatment, or as part of a routine that includes one or more additional compositions or treatments. Although not required, various treatments using compositions according to the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example, during the resting period while the composition is on the hair. For example, a hairdryer, a hair dryer hood, etc., may be used.
[0164] By way of example, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to hair to repair hair that has been previously damaged by chemical treatment, to improve the overall health and appearance of the hair, to improve the elasticity of the hair fibers, etc., by applying a composition to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then optionally drying and / or styling the hair according to the person's habits. This type of treatment may, for example, be carried out in a salon or at home on a weekly, bi-weekly, monthly, etc. to improve the health and overall appearance of the hair.
[0165] In other embodiments, a composition as disclosed may be applied to the hair before, during, and / or after a treatment process that includes one or more other hair compositions. For example, such a routine may include applying a composition as disclosed to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, and then substantially immediately afterward (i.e., within the same hair cleansing process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, shampooing the hair according to the individual's normal hair cleansing routine.Another routine of this type may include washing the hair with shampoo according to the person's usual hair cleansing routine, and substantially immediately afterwards (i.e., as part of the same hair cleansing process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, the application of a composition as disclosed on the hair, optionally before and / or after the application of a conditioning composition on the hair.Yet another routine of this type may include hair conditioning, for example, a deep conditioning treatment, and substantially immediately before and / or after (i.e., as part of the same hair conditioning process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, the application of a composition as disclosed to the hair, optionally with or without rinsing the hair between the application steps of a conditioning composition and a composition as disclosed. Thus, it is envisaged that compositions as disclosed may be incorporated into a hair cleansing and / or conditioning process.
[0166] In still other exemplary embodiments, a composition according to disclosure may be applied to the hair before, during and / or after a chemical hair treatment process. For example, such a routine may include applying a composition according to disclosure to wet, damp or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately afterwards (i.e., as part of the same chemical hair treatment process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying to the hair a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, smoothing, straightening or perming composition.Another routine of this type may include the application of a chemical treatment, such as a bleaching, dyeing, smoothing, relaxing or perming compound, to the hair, and substantially immediately afterwards (i.e. as part of the same treatment process). chemical hair treatment), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, involves the application to the hair of a composition as disclosed. Thus, it is envisaged that the compositions disclosed may be incorporated into a chemical hair treatment process, thereby reducing, minimizing, or preventing hair damage that might otherwise result from such harsh chemical treatments.
[0167] Surprisingly, hair treated with the compositions and processes disclosed shows less damage than hair not treated with the compositions and processes disclosed. The reduction in damage is particularly noticeable in hair damaged by harsh chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as by repeated styling, for example with heat or styling tools. Hair repaired using the compositions and processes disclosed may have lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than similarly damaged but untreated hair.
[0168] In this document, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts containing a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.
[0169] In this application, the terms "keratin fibres" and "hair" are used interchangeably without being intended to be restrictive. A person skilled in the art will understand that keratin fibres include hair, such as hair growing from the scalp.
[0170] As used herein, the expression "apply a composition to the hair," and its variations, is intended to refer to bringing the hair into contact with at least one of the compositions in the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. It may also refer to bringing the hair into contact with an effective quantity.
[0171] The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of the hair. The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to bringing the hair into contact with the compositions of this disclosure.
[0172] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the Compositions may include less than approximately 4%, less than approximately 3%, less than approximately 2%, less than approximately 1.5%, less than approximately 1%, less than approximately 0.5%, less than approximately 0.1%, less than approximately 0.01%, less than approximately 0.001%, or less than approximately 0.0001% of the specified material. As such, it is envisaged that any component described herein for use in hair treatment compositions may be present in the compositions in amounts less than approximately 5%, less than approximately 4%, less than approximately 3%, less than approximately 2%, less than approximately 1%, less than approximately 0.5%, less than approximately 0.1%, less than approximately 0.01%, less than approximately 0.001%, or less than approximately 0.0001%, and the composition will be considered "substantially free" of such material. A composition that is "free" of a component is assumed to contain no quantity of the specified component.However, it is understood that the terms "free" and "substantially free" refer to the amount of a component added to the composition, without including an amount of the component present in the composition as a minor component in a raw material. For example, a composition that is "free" of waxes may not have wax included as an intended component, but may nevertheless contain a pigment coated with wax, since such a wax would be considered a minor component of the pigment material and would not be expected to provide the benefits to the composition that would be anticipated from the inclusion of a wax itself as an intended component.
[0173] As used herein, a "stable" composition maintains a texture that is substantially unchanged, and shows minimal to no phase separation when stored at room temperature for at least one month, preferably at least two months, or at temperatures up to 45°C for at least two weeks. EXAMPLES
[0174] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions
[0175] Compositions 1A-1F according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 1.
[0176] [Table 1] TABLE 1 IA IB IC 1D 1E Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Silicone oil(s) (dimethicone and / or amodimethicone) 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 1.0 Fatty alcohol(s) (stearyl alcohol and / or cetearyl alcohol) 4.5 4.5 6.0 5.0 6.0 Cetyl esters 1.0 Cationic surfactant(s) 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.5 1.6 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.1 1.1 1.1 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.8 1.0 1.5 1.5 0.4 Auxiliary component(s) (pH adjusters, preservatives, etc.) (tamines, extracts) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS Measured pH 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 4.0 Weight ratio [amino acids + o smolytes] Cationic surfactants 4.7 4.7 4.7 3.0 4.7
[0177] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of active components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine)) and yet were surprisingly stable due to the presence of cationic surfactants (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and / or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine).
[0178] Example 2 - Assessment of damage compensation
[0179] In order to evaluate the ability of the compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage, the following studies were conducted.
[0180] A comparator product, Cl, had the following list of ingredients on its packaging: Water (Aqua), bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, quaternium-91, sodium benzoate, cetrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium chloride, parfum, tetrasodium EDTA, polyquaternium-37, benzyl benzoate, etidronic acid, ascorbic acid, phytantriol, tocopheryl acetate, Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice, panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, citric acid, potassium sorbate. The composition of Cl, which is described as a “treatment A pre-shampoo hair treatment that reduces breakage and split ends for visibly healthier hair is advertised as part of a system that claims it can "restore broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical treatments, heat, and styling." Instructions for the Cl formula are to use the product before using the shampoo ("Cl-S") and conditioner ("Cl-C") that are part of this system, both of which list bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate as the active ingredient. Example 2A# - Ultra-bleached hair
[0181] Five strands (S17-S21) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then four of the strands (S17-S20) underwent the following treatment routines (strand S21 was not treated after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).
[0182] The S17 strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0183] Strands S18 and S19 were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the lather into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions 1D (S18) or IB (S19) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0184] The S20 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it so as to ensure that the hair was completely The hair was coated. The Cl composition was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing until all the shampoo was removed. Next, the Cl-C conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.
[0185] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the S17-S21 strands was studied, to evaluate the ability of the compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage.
[0186] The evaluation was performed by stretching a standardized quantity of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each strand. The experts were trained to stretch the area of the strand being evaluated by uniformly applying a manual tensile force using their hands / fingers. The behavior of the strand was rated by each expert on a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each strand being the average of the two:
[0187] 0 = Natural and healthy hair (no damage);
[0188] 1 = low elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a slight elasticity, returning to their initial state after testing);
[0189] 2 = moderate elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a elasticity, returning to their initial state after the test);
[0190] 3 = High elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit elasticity and some hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test);
[0191] 4 = Very high elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit elasticity (and most hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test); and
[0192] 5 = Immediate rupture (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a high elasticity and break during the test).
[0193] The results showed that the hair fibers of strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, surprisingly had lower elasticity than the fibers of strands S17 and S20-S21 one day after the end of the treatment protocol ([Fig. 1]). In other words, the hairs of strands S17 and S21 were damaged by the aggressive bleaching process, resulting in increased elasticity, while the hairs of strand S20 were damaged by the aggressive bleaching process but not repaired with the comparative treatment, resulting in reduced elasticity. increased, while the damage to the S18 and S19 wicks had been repaired by treatment with compositions 1D and IB.
[0194] Secondly, strength was evaluated using a Dia-Stron fiber tensile testing instrument called the MTT (Miniature Tensile Tester). The results showed that the hairs in strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs in strands S17 and S20-S21, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S18 and S19. [Fig. 2A] shows the breaking strength (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S17, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, and strand S20, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in [Fig.[2A], the breaking strength of the control strand (CTL) was more than double that of strand S17, demonstrating the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with composition 1D (strand S18), IB (strand S19), or the comparative compositions (S20), the breaking strength of the treated strands was increased compared to strand S17. Surprisingly, the increase in breaking strength for strands S18 and S19 was considered statistically significant compared to that of strand S20, meaning that compositions 1D and IB repaired the hair to a greater extent than the comparative compositions.
[0195] Example 2B - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity
[0196] Four strands (S22-S25) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened with formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, over a five-week treatment period, the four strands were subjected to the following routine twice a week.
[0197] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, and left to rest for about five minutes. minutes, then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0198] Three of the strands (S22-S24) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.
[0199] Strand S22 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. A hair mask was applied and left on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0200] The S23 strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, the IC composition was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to remain on the strand for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner composition was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to remain on the strand for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0201] The S24 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was washed. was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in straightening serum were applied to the hair.
[0202] After the five-week treatment period, the elasticity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S22-S25 was studied in the same way as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of strand S23, treated with composition IC, had lower elasticity than the fibers of either strand S22 or S24-S25.
[0203] Example 2C - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Resistance
[0204] Four strands (S26-S29) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, over a five-week treatment period, all four strands were subjected to the following routine.
[0205] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for about one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for about five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0206] Three of the strands (S27-S29) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.
[0207] Strands S27 and S28 were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. One of the compositions IB (S28) or 1D (S27) was applied to the hair and left on, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.
[0208] The strand S29 was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with shampoo Cl-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with flat irons were applied to the hair.
[0209] The MTT tests were carried out in the same manner as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hairs in strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs in strands S26 or S29, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S27 and S28. Figure 2B shows the breaking strength (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S26, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 1D and IB respectively, and strand S29, treated with the comparative compositions. In Figure 2B, the breaking strength of the control strand (CTL) was approximately three times greater than that of strand S26, showing the significant damage caused by the bleaching process.After five (5) treatments with composition IB (strand S28) and 1D (strand S27), the breaking strength of the treated strands was increased compared to strand S26, and the improvement was considered statistically significant. However, [Fig. 2B] shows that the breaking strength of the strand treated with the comparative composition (S29) did not show any improvement.
[0210] Examples 2A-2C thus demonstrate that treating hair damaged by aggressive chemical processes with a composition as disclosed remarkably repairs the damage. The damage repair achieved with compositions as disclosed is also remarkably superior to that achieved with a commercial product that claims to do the same. Example 3 - Compositions
[0211] Compositions 2A-2F according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 2.
[0212] [Table 2] TABLE 2 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E 2F Basic Amino Acid(s) 5.50 5.50 3.80 3.80 5.00 5.00 Thickening Agent(s) 0.30 0.90 0.90 1.00 Non-ionic Surfactant(s) 0.30 1.50 0.50 0.50 0.30 0.30 Amphoteric Surfactant(s) 0.30 0.50 0.50 Revitalizing Agent(s) 0.80 2.64 1.20 Cationic Surfactant(s) 2.10 3.84 3.00 3.00 4.40 3.00 Glycine Betaine 2.50 2.50 1.80 1.80 2.50 2.50 Citric acid 6.00 6.00 5.50 5.50 6.15 6.06 Wax(s) 0.50 0.50 Fatty alcohol(s) 6.30 6.30 6.00 12.0 Vegetable oil(s) 0.50 Fatty acid ester(s) 2.50 1.50 2.00 0.70 Additives (preservatives, perfume) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS QS Weight ratio [amino acids + osmolytes] : cationic surfactants 3.8 2.1 1.9 1.9 1.7 2.5
[0213] Compositions 2A-2F, which contained a synergistic combination of active components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine)) and were stable due to the presence of cationic surfactants (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and / or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine), were also expected to minimize, prevent, and / or repair hair damage. The compositions were also expected to improve the elasticity and tensile strength of the treated hair fibers. Example 4# - Additional Compositions
[0214] The following compositions, according to the disclosure, may be prepared and are expected to be similarly stable and to minimize, prevent, or repair damage to the hair. The compositions should also improve the elasticity and tensile strength of the treated hair fibers.
[0215] [Table 3] TABLE 3 3A 3B 3C 3D 3E Arginine 2.0 9.8 2.5 Lysine 2.5 2.0 10 Valine betaine 2.0 4.5 2.0 1.0 4.0 Citric acid 3.0 2.0 9.8 Lactic acid 2.0 10 2.0 Serine 0.05 0.5 0.05 0.5 Fatty compound(s) 10 8.0 9.0 15 Cationic surfactant(s) 3.0 3.0 0.5 2.5 5.0 Additional component(s) (e.g., pH adjusters, vitamins, preservatives, extracts, thickeners) <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 Solvent(s) (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS Ratio weight [amino acids + smolytes]: cationic surfactants 1.3 4.8 14 1.2 2.8
[0216] The examples above demonstrate that the synergistic combination of active components (carboxylic acids, osmolytes, and amino acids) as disclosed surprisingly and unexpectedly repairs damaged hair and prevents or minimizes further hair damage. The cationic surfactants remarkably provide stability to the compositions despite the presence of relatively high amounts of these active components.
Claims
Demands
1. Keratin fiber processing composition comprising: a) at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; b) at least one osmolyte; c) at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; d) at least one cationic surfactant; and e) water, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of [amino acids and salts thereof + osmolytes] to the total amount of cationic surfactants is greater than about 0.5, and the pH of the composition is less than 7.
2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising a) at least one amino acid selected from the compounds of formula (I) or their salts: COOH (I) HCN(H)PR in which: - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and • when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from the hydroxyl or alkyl (in C1-C4); or • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated Cl-Cl2 alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, comprising (d) at least one cationic surfactant selected from polyoxyalkylated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, or combinations of two or more of these.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising (d) at least one cationic surfactant selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, or combinations of two or more of these.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising (d) at least one cationic surfactant selected from compounds of formula (III): M <in) X' dans laquelle : - les groupes R8 à RI 1 sont choisis indépendamment parmi les groupes aliphatiques linéaires ou ramifiés contenant de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone, ou un groupe aromatique tel qu'aryle ou alkylaryle, au moins l’un des groupes R8 à RI 1 incluant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, tel que de 12 à 24 atomes de carbone, étant possible que les groupes aliphatiques linéaires ou ramifiés incluent des hétéroatomes tels que, par exemple, l’oxygène, l’azote et / ou le soufre, ces hétéroatomes n’étant pas adjacents, et les halogènes ; et - X est un anion choisi dans le groupe consistant en halogénures tels que bromures, chlorures, iodures, fluorures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, sulfates d’alkyle en C1-C4, sulfonates d’alkyle en C1-C4 ou sulfonates d’alkylaryle en C1-C4 ;the alkyl groups in C1-C30, alkoxy in C1-C30, polyoxyalkylene in C2-C6, alkylamide in Cl-C30, alkyl in C12-C22-alkylamido in C2-C6, alkyl acetate in C12-C22 and hydroxyalkyl in C1-C30.;
6. Composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total amount of cationic surfactants ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weight ratio between the total quantity of [acids amino acids and their salts + osmolytes] and the total amount of cationic surfactants ranges from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 1.25 to about 8, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 6, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 5.
8. Composition according to claims 1 to 7, comprising (c) at least one compound selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.
9. A process for treating keratin fibers, the process comprising: a. applying to the keratin fibers the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8; and b. optionally rinsing the keratin fibers.
10. A method according to claim 9, which is a method for reducing or preventing damage or breakage of hair, protecting hair against damage, restoring the moisture balance of hair fibers, providing strength to hair fibers and / or improving the elasticity of hair fibers.