COMPOSITION AND DYEING PROCESS OF KERATINOUS FIBERS
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000879
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-30
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-01-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing temporary hair dyeing products often transfer and leave traces on clothing or skin, and they can result in an unaesthetic and unnatural hair feel, lacking softness and suppleness, and poor strand separation.
A composition for dyeing keratinous fibers comprising at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa, at least one organic solvent, and at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, applied to the hair to achieve a colored coating with improved softness, flexibility, and detangability, while minimizing transfer resistance.
The composition provides a colored coating on hair with good strand separation, softness, and ease of detangling, while exhibiting excellent transfer resistance and limited deposition on skin or clothing.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR DYEING KERATINOUS FIBERS Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair. The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Many people have long been looking for ways to change their hair color, especially to hide gray hair.
[0003] In the field of dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, it is already known to dye hair keratinous fibers via various techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent dyeing, or dye precursors for permanent dyeing.
[0004] There are basically three types of hair dyeing processes: a. “permanent” dyeing, the function of which is to allow a substantial modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fibers and form the dye via a process of oxidative condensation; b. non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct dyeing, which does not use the oxidative condensation process and withstands four or five shampoo washes; it consists of dyeing the hair with dye compositions containing direct dyes; c. temporary dyeing, which results in a change in the natural hair color that remains from one shampoo to the next, and which serves to enhance or correct a shade that has already been achieved. It can also be likened to a “makeup” process.
[0005] The temporary dyeing process involves the use of pigments. Specifically, the use of pigments on the surface of keratinous fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorations on dark hair, because the surface pigment masks the natural color of the fibers.
[0006] However, certain temporary hair dyeing products on the market have the disadvantage of transferring, that is to say of being deposited at least partially, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they may come into contact and in particular on clothing or skin.
[0007] Furthermore, temporary hair dyeing and / or makeup compositions may also result in an unaesthetic and / or unnatural hair feel; in particular, the hair thus dyed may lack softness and / or suppleness and / or strand separation.
[0008] Thus, there is a need to develop a composition for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair with good cosmetic properties on keratinous fibers such as hair such as softness and suppleness while maintaining keratinous fibers such as hair with good strand separation and having transfer resistance properties. Summary of the invention
[0009] An objective of the present application is to provide a composition for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair, with good cosmetic properties on keratinous fibers such as hair such as softness and suppleness while retaining the keratinous fibers such as hair with good strand separation and having transfer resistance properties.
[0010] Another objective of the present application is to provide a process for dyeing hair.
[0011] Thus, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: a. at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; b. at least one organic solvent; and c. at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0012] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a hair dyeing composition.
[0013] The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair comprising applying the composition as described above to the keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0014] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a colored coating on the hair having good separation of the strands, being softer and more flexible and which is easy to detangle.
[0015] After application of the composition to keratinous fibers, such as hair, the composition exhibits good transfer resistance and deposition on supports with which the composition is brought into contact, such as skin and / or clothing, is limited.
[0016] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from the detailed description and examples. which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0017] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0018] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, in particular, in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0019] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0020] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically recited features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically recited features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0021] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing an amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which, if necessary, can be changed depending on the desired objective.
[0022] As used herein, molecular weight indicates weight average molecular weight.
[0023] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0024] The term "keratinous fibers" or "keratin fibers" herein refers to fibers containing keratin as a principal constituent, and examples of which include hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and the like.
[0025] For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated: • an “alkyl” radical denotes a linear or branched saturated radical containing, for example, from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; • an “aminoalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group; • a “hydroxyalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group; • an “alkylene” radical denotes a linear or branched divalent saturated Cl-CIO hydrocarbon-based group such as methylene, ethylene or propylene; • a “cycloalkyl” or “alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a monocyclic or polycyclic saturated cyclic hydrocarbon-based group, preferably monocyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl or norbornyl, or isobornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl, it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more alkyl groups (C1-C4) such as methyl; preferably, the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group; • an “aryl” radical is a monocyclic, bicyclic or tricyclic, fused or unfused, unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon-based cyclic radical comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 14 carbon atoms, more preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms; preferably, the aryl group comprises 1 cycle of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more alkyl groups (C1-C4) such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl or methyl-naphthyl; preferably, the aryl group represents a phenyl; • an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined previously; • an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyloxy radical with “alkyl” as defined previously.
[0026] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; b. at least one organic solvent; and c. at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures. Protein
[0027] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa.
[0028] As used herein, 1 kDa is equivalent to 1000 g / mol.
[0029] Said protein may be of animal or plant origin.
[0030] Said protein may be a hydrolyzed or non-hydrolyzed protein.
[0031] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-protein hydrolyzed with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa.
[0032] The term "hydrolyzed protein" as used herein means the product of the hydrolysis of homogeneous or heterogeneous proteins, or their respective components, derivatives, or combinations thereof.
[0033] The term "unhydrolyzed protein" as used herein indicates that the protein is not hydrolyzed.
[0034] Protein sources useful for the composition of the present invention include, but are not limited to, plants and their respective components, seeds, animal bones, connective tissue, animal keratin, bovine and porcine collagen, human hair, wool, silk, elastin, reticulin, milk, egg, wheat, corn, soy, oats, casein, albumin or any collagenous or keratinous substance, or derivatives thereof.
[0035] Preferably, the protein is selected from silk protein, pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, which are non-hydrolyzed.
[0036] More preferably, the protein is chosen from corn protein, collagen and their mixtures which are non-hydrolyzed, even more preferably from corn protein, in particular zein, which is non-hydrolyzed.
[0037] Preferably, the protein has a molecular weight of at least 15 kDa.
[0038] According to preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one protein selected from corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, the proteins are non-hydrolyzed and have a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa.
[0039] According to more preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one protein selected from corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, the proteins are non-hydrolyzed and have a molecular weight of at least 15 kDa.
[0040] We can cite Arorganic-zein sold by the company AROMA HOLLY LIMITED.
[0041] Advantageously, the protein is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Organic solvents
[0042] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one organic solvent.
[0043] Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from C2-C8 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, C2-C8 fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
[0044] As used herein, the C2-C8 monohydric alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0045] Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from a saturated, linear or branched C2-C6 monoalcohol, for example, ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol.
[0046] As used herein, the C2-C8 glycols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0047] Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from saturated, linear or branched C2-C6 glycols, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol.
[0048] As used herein, the C2-C8 fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, optionally a hydrogen atom bonded to a carbon atom is substituted with a hydroxyl group. Examples of C2-C8 fatty acids include acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, pentanoic acid, caproic acid, heptyl acid, caprylic acid.
[0049] More preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, propylene glycol, acetic acid, lactic acid and their mixtures.
[0050] Advantageously, the organic solvent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] In certain preferred embodiments, the organic solvent is chosen from a C2-C8 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol, present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, preferably from 15% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0052] In certain preferred embodiments, the organic solvent is chosen from C2-C8 glycols, in particular propylene glycol, present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, preferably from 15% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] The presence of organic solvent can improve the dissolution of proteins and can improve the dyeing time. Coloring agents
[0054] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures. Pigments
[0055] Preferably, the coloring agent is chosen from pigments.
[0056] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more pigments.
[0057] The term "pigment" refers to any pigment that gives color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
[0058] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology by Kirk-Othmer and in the Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry by Ullmann.
[0059] They can be natural, of natural origin or non-natural.
[0060] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.
[0061] The pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] The pigment may be an inorganic pigment. The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Inorganic pigments used in the present invention include iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium oxide.
[0063] The pigment may be an organic pigment. The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
[0064] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
[0065] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the re references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0066] Examples which may also be cited include pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names:
[0067] - Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Pigment yellow 3 (CI 11710);
[0068] - Cosmenyl Yellow G: Yellow pigment 1 (CI 11680);
[0069] - Cosmenyl Orange GR: Pigment orange 43 (CI 71105);
[0070] - Cosmenyl Red R: Pigment red 4 (CI 12085);
[0071] - Cosmenyl Carminé FB: Pigment red 5 (CI 12490);
[0072] - Cosmenyl Violet RL: Violet pigment 23 (CI 51319);
[0073] - Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Blue pigment 15.1 (CI 74160);
[0074] - Cosmenyl Green GG: Green pigment 7 (CI 74260);
[0075] - Cosmenyl Black R: Black pigment 7 (CI 77266).
[0076] The pigments according to the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles including an inorganic core, of at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core, and of at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
[0077] The organic pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the resulting mixture remaining insoluble during use.
[0078] The mineral substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium-sodium borosilicate or calcium-aluminum and aluminum borosilicate.
[0079] Among the dyes, we can cite carminic acid. Other dyes known as: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).
[0080] An example of a lake that can be cited is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0081] The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. The term “special effect pigments” refers to pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain hue, vibrancy, and level of luminance) which is non-uniform and changes depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinguished from colored pigments which offer a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent tint.
[0082] There are several types of special effect pigments: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index, such as pearlescent pigments, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
[0083] Examples of special effect pigments that may be cited include pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Pearlescent pigments that may be cited include Cellini pearlescent pigments sold by BASF (mica-TiO2 lake), Prestige pearlescent pigments sold by Eckart (mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments sold by Eckart (mica-Fe2O3) and Colorona pearlescent pigments sold by Merck (mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0084] Mention may also be made of the golden mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the company BASF under the names Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the company BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearl sold in particular by BASF under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl sold in particular by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica), red-tinted mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386)(Colorona);yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl sold in particular by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red mother-of-pearl with a golden tint sold in particular by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl sold in particular by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a golden tint sold in particular by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver tint sold in particular by Merck under the name; Xirona Silver and the green-gold and pink-orange mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the Merck company under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and their mixtures.
[0085] Still as examples of pearlescent agents, we can also cite particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0086] The particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.
[0087] Finally, examples of nacres which may also be cited include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, in particular those sold by the company Mea-dowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver glitter flakes). It is also possible to envisage multi-layer pigments based on synthetic substrates, such as alumina, silica, calcium-sodium borosilicate, calcium-aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.
[0088] The special effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are composed as well as their physical and chemical nature and their surface state, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to sparkle.
[0089] The reflective particles may be chosen so as not to significantly modify the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or shade.
[0090] These particles can have various shapes and can in particular be in platelet or globular form, in particular in spherical form.
[0091] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multi-layer structure and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0092] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides.
[0093] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may include, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be consisting of one or more organic and / or inorganic materials.
[0094] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being exhaustive.
[0095] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or metallic material.
[0096] The reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0097] As another example of reflective particles including a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0098] The particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal. The particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the names Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by the same company.
[0099] It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0100] Examples that may be cited include aluminum powder, bronze powder or SiO2 coated copper powder sold under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.
[0101] Also included are interference effect pigments that are not fixed to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) and holographic interference glitter flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether substances that fluoresce in daylight or produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots, sold, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0102] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
[0103] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm and more preferably- typically between 30 nm and 50 pm.
[0104] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
[0105] The dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of these, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group which is compatible with the continuous medium or soluble therein.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxy stearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
[0106] As other dispersants which may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for example Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
[0107] The pigments used in the composition may be surface treated with an organic agent.
[0108] Thus, the pre-surface-treated pigments which are useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have been entirely or partially subjected to a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature with an organic agent, such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53 to 64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example camauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular po-. lydimethylsiloxanes; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
[0109] Surface-treated pigments that are useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or may have undergone several surface treatments.
[0110] Surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available as is.
[0111] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
[0112] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the surfactant molecules or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0113] The surface treatment can thus be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0114] An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
[0115] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
[0116] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments: • a PEG-silicone treatment, for example the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW; • a methicone treatment, for example the SI surface treatment sold by LCW; • a dimethicone treatment, for example the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment sold by LCW; • a dimethicone / trimethyl siloxysilicate treatment, for example Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW; • a magnesium myristate treatment, for example the MM surface treatment sold by LCW; • an aluminum dimyristate treatment, such as the MI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi; • a treatment with perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether, for example the FHC surface treatment sold by LCW; • an isostearyl sebacate treatment, for example the HS surface treatment sold by Miyoshi; • a perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for example the PF surface treatment sold by Daito; • an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for example the FSA surface treatment sold by Daito; • a polymethylhydrogensiloxane / perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for example the FS01 surface treatment sold by Daito; • an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer treatment, for example the ASC surface treatment sold by Daito; • an isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for example the ITT surface treatment sold by Daito; • an acrylate copolymer treatment, for example the APD surface treatment sold by Daito; • a perfluoroalkyl phosphate / isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for example the PF + ITT surface treatment sold by Daito.
[0117] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersant is present with organic or mineral pigments in the form of submicron-sized particles.
[0118] The term "submicron" or "submicronic" refers to pigments having a particle size that has been micronized by a micronization process and having an average particle size of less than one micrometer (pm), particularly between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0119] According to one embodiment, the dispersant and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment), in a weight ratio, between 1:4 and 4:1, in particular between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better still between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0120] The dispersant(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino silicone dispersants. Suitable dispersants that may be cited include:
[0121] - aminosilicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more groups amino acids such as those sold under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879 by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, sold by Genesee Polymers,
[0122] - silicone acrylates such as Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041, and Tego® RC 1043, sold by Evonik,
[0123] - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones carrying carboxyl groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, epoxy silicones such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682 and GP-695 by Genesee Polymers, or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403, Tego® RC 1412 by Evonik.
[0124] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant(s) is (are) of amino-silicone type and is (are) cationic.
[0125] Preferably, the pigment(s) is(are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0126] In a variant of the invention, the pigment(s) is(are) organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
[0127] In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) is / are mineral pigments. Direct dyeing
[0128] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more direct dyes.
[0129] The expression "direct dyeing" refers to natural and / or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes which spread superficially on the fiber.
[0130] They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
[0131] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be cited include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as a mixture.
[0132] Among the natural direct dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, api-genidin and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna may also be used.
[0133] The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005% by weight to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0134] The pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0135] The direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Alkoxysilane
[0136] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one alkoxysilane.
[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I1) below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures:
[0138] in which: • Ra represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; • Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; • Rd and Re, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; a aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; • A independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; • Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); • r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1.
[0139] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane (APMDES), 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane and N-cyclohexylaminomethyltriethoxysilane.
[0140] APTES can be purchased for example from Dow Corning under the name Xiameter OFS-6011 Silane or from Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft Al 100 or from Shin-Etsu under the name KBE-903.
[0141] The compounds of formula (I) may also designate Dynasylan SIVO 210 or Dynasylan 1505 sold by the company Evonik.
[0142] 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane can be purchased, for example, from the company Gelest under the reference SIU9058.0.
[0143] N-cyclohexylaminomethyltriethoxysilane can be purchased, for example, from the company Wacker under the name Geniosil XL 926.
[0144] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (!), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of N,N-bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]ethylenediamine (CAS identification number: 74956-86-8), Nl,Nl-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1,2-ethanediamine (CAS identification number: 457065-96-2), 1,2-ethanediamine, Nl-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-Nl-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]- (CAS identification number: 1638528-78-5), and their mixtures.
[0145] Preferably, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, their oligomers and / or their mixtures are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:
[0146] in which: • Ra represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; • Rb and Rc, which may be the same or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethyl; • Rd and Re, which are identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd denotes a hydrogen atom and Re denotes a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl; • A independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S and NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; • r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0147] Preferably, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, their oligomers and / or their mixtures are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ra represents an ethoxy group, Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propylene and r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0148] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane of formula (I), its oligomers and / or its mixtures, is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
[0149] The alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or of formula (F), their oligomers and / or their mixtures may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, better still from 0.8% by weight to 10% by weight and even better still from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0150] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) below, its oligomers and / or its mixtures:
[0151] in which: • Ra represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; • Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; • Rc represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0152] it being understood that if Ra and Rc do not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom; • k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably from 0 to 3; • Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group of formula (IIa) below:
[0153] in which Rn represents a hydroxyl group (OH); an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl.
[0154] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), dimethyldiethoxysilane (DMDES), diethyldiethoxysilane, dipropyldiethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, isobutyltriethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane, phenylmethyldiethoxysilane, diphenyldiethoxysilane, benzyltriethoxysilane, benzylmethyldiethoxysilane, di-benzyldiethoxysilane, acetoxymethyltriethoxysilane and their mixtures.
[0155] TEOS can for example be purchased from the company Evonik under the name Dynasylan® A or Dynasylan® A SQ.
[0156] MTES can be purchased for example from the company Evonik under the name Dynasylan® MTES.
[0157] DMDES can be purchased, for example, from the company Gelest under the reference SID3404.0.
[0158] Preferably, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are such that: • Ra represents an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted by an aryl group, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms optionally substituted by an aryl group; • Rb represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or an ethyl; • Rc represents an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; • k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0; • Rf represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl.
[0159] More preferably, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are such that: • Ra represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or an ethyl; • Rb represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or an ethyl; • Rc represents an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; • k denotes an integer equal to 0; • R represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or an ethyl.
[0160] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane of formula (II), its oligomers and / or its mixtures, is methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).
[0161] The alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, better still from 0.8% by weight to 10% by weight and even better still from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0162] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkoxysilane of formula (I), its oligomers and / or its mixtures, more preferably 3-aminopropyltriethoxy silane (APTES).
[0163] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxy silane or alkoxysilanes is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, better still from 0.8% by weight to 10% by weight and even better still from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0164] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, better still from 0.8% by weight to 10% by weight and even better still from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Film-forming polymer
[0165] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer other than a protein.
[0166] Preferably, the film-forming polymer is chosen from hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s), hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) and mixtures thereof.
[0167] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" designates a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds known as monomers). This (these) unit(s) is (are) repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.
[0168] The term "hydrophobic polymer" is intended to mean a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight.
[0169] The term "hydrophilic polymer" is intended to mean a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C greater than or equal to 1% by weight.
[0170] The expression "film-forming polymer" is intended to designate a polymer which is capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratinous substances, and preferably a cohesive film.
[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s).
[0172] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer chosen from the group comprising: • film-forming polymers which are soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and forms a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium; • film-forming polymers that are dispersible in an organic solvent medium, meaning that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into this medium. In particular, these polymers may be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon-based oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized at their surface with at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are often referred to as “NADs”; and • film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, meaning that the polymer forms a water-insoluble phase, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into water, the polymer particles being optionally stabilized on their surface with at least one stabilizer. These polymer particles are often called “latex”; in this case, the composition must comprise an aqueous phase.
[0173] Among the hydrophobic film-forming polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures.
[0174] Hydrophobic film-forming polymers that may be cited in particular include acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose-based polymers such as nitrocellulose, silicone polymers, acrylamide-type polymers and polyisoprenes.
[0175] Non-ionic, amphoteric, anionic or cationic hydrophobic film-forming polymers may be used.
[0176] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be chosen from acrylic polymers.
[0177] The acrylic polymer may be a styrene / acrylate copolymer and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers of at least one styrene monomer, of at least one C1-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, and optionally one or more (meth)acrylic acid salts.
[0178] As styrene monomers which can be used in the invention, examples which can be cited include styrene and α-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.
[0179] The C1-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer is in particular a C10-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylate and more particularly a C12-C20 alkyl (meth)acrylate. The C1-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate and nonadecanyl (meth)acrylate.
[0180] Examples of (meth)acrylic acid salts include sodium (meth)acrylic acid, potassium (meth)acrylic acid and ammonium (meth)acrylic acid.
[0181] The acrylic polymer used can be in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
[0182] As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, the following may be used according to the invention: • aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer sold under the names Acronal DS-6250® by BASF, Neocryl A-45®, Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by DSM, Joncryl 95® and Joncryl 821 1® by BASF, Daitosol 5000 AD® (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer) or Daitosol 5000 SJ® (INCI name: Acrylates / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer) by Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760 CG® (INCI name: Styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer) by Interpolymer.
[0183] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of film-forming acrylic polymer.
[0184] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may also be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers which may be obtained from amides of acid monomers; mention may be made of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, in particular C2-C12 alkyl, such as N-ethylacrylamide, Nt-butylacrylamide or N-octylacrylamide; N-(Cl-C4)dialkyl(meth)acrylamides and perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0185] Mention may also be made of copolymers whose CTFA name (4th edition, 1991) is Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Amphomer® or Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch, and also copolymers with the CTFA name Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Dermacryl® LT or Dermacryl® 79 by the company National Starch.
[0186] Copolymers of unsaturated ethylenic acid esters of alkoxylated fatty alcohols may also be used according to the invention. These unsaturated ethylenic acid esters are in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic, and these alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular steareth-20 and ceteth-20.
[0187] Examples include Aculyn®22 (acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer), Aculyn®28 (acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer), Structure 2001® (acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer), Structure 3001® (acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer), Structure Plus® (acrylates / amino-acrylates / PEG-20 C10-30 alkyl itaconate copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer), Synthalen W2000 ® (acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer or Soltex OPT (acrylates / Cl2-22 alkyl methacrylate) sold by Dow Chemical Company.
[0188] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may also be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers obtained from vinyl monomers. Mention may be made of homopolymers or copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-N-(Cl-C6)alkylpyrroles, vinyloxazoles, vinylthiazoles, vinylpyrimidines or vinylimidazoles.
[0189] Examples of vinylpyrrolidone copolymers that may be used in the invention include VP / vinyl laurate copolymer, VP / vinyl stearate copolymer, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer sold by ISP under the name Ganex V216, VP / eicosene copolymer sold by ISP under the name Ganex V220, VP / tricontene copolymer, or VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
[0190] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may also be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers which may be obtained from olefins such as ethylene, propylene, butenes, isoprene, butadienes.
[0191] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can also be chosen from polyurethanes.
[0192] The polyurethanes which can be used in the composition of the present invention are those described in patent applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485, FR 2 743 297, and EP 0 656 021, WO 94 / 03510, EP 0 619 111 and WO2020074493A1.
[0193] Preferred polyurethanes useful for the composition of the present invention include Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-32, Polyurethane-34, Polyurethane-35, Polyurethane-48, Polyurethane-93 and Polyurethane-99.
[0194] As commercial polyurethane products, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Luviset PUR® and Luviset® Si PUR by the company BASF (INCI names Polyurethane-1 and Polyurethane-6 respectively), the name BAYCUSAN CQ E 1000 by the company COVESTRO (INCI name Polyurethane-93. Preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from an acrylic polymer, polyurethane, polyester, polyamide and their mixtures.
[0195] More preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from an acrylic polymer, polyurethane and their mixtures.
[0196] More preferably, the film-forming polymer is chosen from Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-32, Polyurethane-34, Polyurethane-35, Polyurethane-48, Polyurethane-93, Polyurethane-99, styrene / acrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0197] More preferably still, the film-forming polymer is chosen from Polyurethane-93, Polyurethane-99, styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymers and their mixtures.
[0198] Most preferably, the film-forming polymer is chosen from the copolymer Polyurethane-93, styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate, and their mixtures.
[0199] Advantageously, the film-forming polymer is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water
[0200] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises water.
[0201] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 70% by weight, more preferably from 15% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0202] Preferably, the weight ratio of organic solvent to water is from 0.5:1 to 5:1.
[0203] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, especially ethanol, and water, wherein the weight ratio of C2-C8 monoalcohol to water is from 0.5:1 to 2:1.
[0204] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C2-C8 glycol, especially propylene glycol, and water, wherein the weight ratio of C2-C8 glycol to water is from 0.5:1 to 2:1. Surfactants
[0205] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant.
[0206] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant, more preferably chosen from tertiary amidoamines.
[0207] Preferably, the cationic surfactant is chosen from the compounds represented by formula (III):
[0208] R1C(O)NH-(CH2)x-NR2R3(III)
[0209] in which • R । represents a linear or branched C8-26 alkyl; • R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched Cl-4 alkyl, • x = 1 to 5, and • it is understood that if R2 represents a hydrogen atom, then R3 cannot represent a hydrogen atom and if R3 represents a hydrogen atom, then R2 cannot represent a hydrogen atom.
[0210] Preferably, Ri is a linear or branched C10-24 alkyl, more preferably, Ri is a linear or branched C12-22 alkyl.
[0211] Non-limiting examples of Ri are C12 alkyl (lauryl), C13 alkyl, C14 alkyl (myristyl), C15 alkyl, C16 alkyl (cetyl or palmityl), C17 alkyl, C18 alkyl (stearyl), C19 alkyl, C20 alkyl (arachidyl), C21 alkyl, C22 alkyl (behenyl) and the isomer of these groups, such as isostearyl.
[0212] Preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-4 alkyl.
[0213] Non-limiting examples of linear or branched C1-4 alkyl are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl.
[0214] Preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a linear or branched C1-3 alkyl, and more preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a linear or branched C1-2 alkyl.
[0215] Preferably, x is equal to 2 to 4, more preferably, x is equal to 2 or 3.
[0216] In the present invention, it is understood that if R2 represents a hydrogen atom, then R3 cannot represent a hydrogen atom and if R3 represents a hydrogen atom, then R2 cannot represent a hydrogen atom.
[0217] Preferably, the cationic surfactant is chosen from linear or branched C8-26 fatty acid tertiary amidopropyl amines and linear or branched C8-26 fatty acid tertiary amidoethyl amines.
[0218] Non-limiting examples of the cationic surfactant include behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, isostearamidoethyl dimethylamine, myristamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidoethyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0219] More preferably, the composition comprises at least one cationic surfactant chosen from linear or branched amidopropyl tertiary fatty acid amines C12-22, even more preferably chosen from linear C12-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropyl amines, such as behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and lauramidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0220] Advantageously, the cationic surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Adjuvants
[0221] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvants.
[0222] For example, the composition may include one or more additives that are well known in the art, such as antioxidants, pH adjusters, and preservatives.
[0223] A person skilled in the art can select these optional additional compounds and their amounts such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the invention are not, or not substantially, adversely affected by the contemplated addition(s).
[0224] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, a. from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one protein selected from silk protein, pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, the proteins are non-hydrolyzed and have a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; b. from 5% by weight to 90% by weight of at least one organic solvent chosen from ethanol, propylene glycol, acetic acid, lactic acid and a mixture thereof; and c. from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one pigment.
[0225] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, a. from 1.5% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one corn protein which is non-hydrolyzed and which has a molecular weight of at least 15 kDa; b. from 20% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one organic solvent chosen from ethanol, propylene glycol, acetic acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof; and c. from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one pigment chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments. Preparation and Use
[0226] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods in the cosmetic field and can be used for dyeing hair.
[0227] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a process for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair comprising applying the composition as described above to the keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0228] The process can be repeated several times to obtain the desired coloring. EXAMPLES
[0229] The following examples are given for the purpose of illustration of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope.
[0230] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers have been listed in Table 1.
[0231] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Zein (molecular weight of at least 10 kDa) Arorganic-zein AROMA HOLLY LIMITED RED 30 COVASOP RED W 3773 SENSIENT Hydroxypropyltrimonium hy-drolyzed wheat protein (molecular weight strictly less than 10 kDa) GLUADIN WQT P BASF Collagen powder (molecular weight of at least 10 kDa) COLLUME POWDER GELTOR Polyurethane-93 (containing 30% active ingredient) BAYCUSAN CQ E 1000 COVESTRO (BAYER) Aminopropyl triethoxysilane XIAMETEROFS-6011 SILANE DOW Inventive Examples 1-5 and Comparative Example 1
[0232] The compositions according to Inventive Examples (EI) 1-5 and Comparative Example (CE) 1 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (the contents were expressed as percentages by weight of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated - MA: Active ingredient):
[0233] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EI.2 EL3 EI.4 EI.5 EC. 1 Ethanol 44 44 - 43 43 44 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Lactic acid - - 63 - 0.3 - Zein 5 - 5 5 5 - Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine - - - - 1 - Aminopropyl triethoxysilane - - - 1 - - Polyurethane-93 - - - 0.5 - - Collagen powder - 5 - - - - Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein - - - - - 5 RED 30 / CI 73360 2.4 MA 2.4 MA 2.4 MA 3 MA 2.4 MA 2.4 MA
[0234] The compositions of Inventive Examples 1-5 are compositions according to the present invention.
[0235] The composition of Comparative Example 1 does not comprise at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa.
[0236] Preparation procedure:
[0237] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: 1. mixing organic solvents and water with stirring at room temperature for 2 minutes to obtain a solvent mixture; 2. preheating the solvent mixture in a water bath at 50°C for 5 minutes; 3. addition of protein and film-forming polymer (if applicable) into the solvent mixture in a water bath at 50°C with stirring for 5 minutes to obtain a homogeneous system; 4. addition of aminopropyl triethoxysilane (if applicable) into the homogeneous system with stirring for 5 minutes; and 5. Adding the coloring agent into the homogeneous system with stirring for 5 minutes to obtain a homogeneous composition. Assessment
[0238] Each composition was evaluated in terms of hair softness, ability to detangling and transfer resistance offered by the composition. Softness of hair
[0239] 1.5 g of the test sample was applied to a 3 g lock of hair bleached, then the hair strand was blow-dried. Then, the strand was folded and scored according to the following standard by the 6 professional hairdressers and the scores were averaged:
[0240] 5: as soft as natural hair;
[0241] 4: Slightly harder than natural hair, easy to bend and comb;
[0242] 3: slightly hard to bend and comb;
[0243] 2: very hard to bend and comb; and
[0244] 1: Extremely hard and cannot be bent or combed. Detangling capacity
[0245] 1.5 g of the test sample was applied to a 3 g lock of hair bleached, then the hair strand was blow-dried. Then, 6 professional hairdressers inserted their fingers into the hair strand and the fingers slid from the root to the tip of the hair to measure the detangling ability, then the scores were given according to the following standard and the scores were averaged:
[0246] 1: cannot be combed at all;
[0247] 2: hard to comb with a lot of friction
[0248] 3: can be combed with medium friction
[0249] 4: easy to comb with little friction
[0250] 5: easy to comb without any friction Resistance to transfer
[0251] 1.5 g of the test sample was applied to a 3 g lock of hair bleached, then the hair strand was blow-dried. Then, the hair strand was wiped with a wiping cloth and the color stain on the strand was rated according to the following standard by 6 professional hairdressers, and then the scores were averaged:
[0252] 1: almost complete color transfer to the wiping cloth;
[0253] 2: many colored stains on the wiping cloth;
[0254] 3: Color stain present on the wiping cloth, but the color level is acceptable;
[0255] 4: a small stain of color on the wiping cloth but not obvious;
[0256] 5: no color stain on the wiping cloth.
[0257] The evaluation results of the compositions of Inventive Examples (IE) 1 to 5 and Comparative Example (CE) 1 have been summarized in Table 3.
[0258] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 EI.2 EL3 EI.4 EI.5 EC. 1 Hair softness 4.6 4.4 3.8 4.4 4.8 3.1 Detangling capacity 4.7 4.4 4.6 4.3 4.9 2.2 Transfer resistance 3.8 3.6 4.2 4.3 3.9 1.7
[0259] It can be seen in Table 3 that the compositions according to the present invention comprising at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa make it possible to obtain a colored coating on the hair having good separation of the strands, with a soft feel, and which are easy to detangle.
[0260] In addition, after application of the composition to the hair, the composition exhibits good transfer resistance.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: a) at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; b) at least one organic solvent; and c) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the protein is selected from silk protein, pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, collagen, corn protein and mixtures thereof, which are non-hydrolyzed, more preferably, the protein is selected from corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, which are non-hydrolyzed, even more preferably from corn proteins which are non-hydrolyzed.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, in which the organic solvent is chosen from C2-C8 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, C2-C8 fatty acids and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethanol, propylene glycol, acetic acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises one or more pigments selected from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the composition comprises at least one alkoxysilane, preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I1) below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures: r . ® V . 1 (D in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; - Rd and Re, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1.
6. Composition according to claim 5, in which the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, their oligomers and / or their mixtures are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:« (I) A. . ! „ <xr \ L J, dans laquelle : - Ra représente un groupe alkyle contenant de 1 à 10 atomes de carbone, notamment de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone et en particulier de 1 à 2 atomes de carbone, de préférence un méthyle, ou un groupe alcoxy contenant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 2 atomes de carbone, de préférence un éthoxy ; - Rb et Rc, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle contenant de 1 à 10 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, tel qu’un éthyle ; - Rd et Re, qui sont identiques, représentent un atome d’hydrogène ou Rd désigne un atome d’hydrogène et Re désigne un radical cycloalkyle en C5-C6 tel que le radical cyclohexyle ; - A représente indépendamment un groupe alkylène linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 1 à 10 atomes de carbone, qui peut être interrompu par au moins un hétéroatome choisi parmi 0, S et NH ou un groupe carbonyle (CO), de préférence NH ; - r désigne un nombre entier égal à 0.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 5 or 6, in which the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, their oligomers and / or their mixtures are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ra represents an ethoxy group, Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propylene and r denotes an integer equal to 0.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one film-forming polymer other than a protein, preferably chosen from hydrophobic film-forming polymers, more preferably chosen from an acrylic polymer, a polyurethane and their mixtures.
9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, a) from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one protein chosen from a silk protein, a pea protein, a soy protein, a wheat protein, a corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, the proteins being unhydrolyzed and having a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; (b) from 5% by weight to 90% by weight of at least one organic solvent chosen from ethanol, propylene glycol, acetic acid, lactic acid and one of their mixtures; and (c) from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one pigment.
10. A process for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to keratinous fibers such as hair.