COMPOSITION AND DYEING PROCESS OF KERATINOUS FIBERS
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000760
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-26
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-01-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dyeing compositions often result in unnatural and non-cosmetic properties, such as lack of softness, suppleness, and strand separation, in keratinous fibers like hair.
A composition comprising at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa, at least one cationic surfactant chosen from tertiary amidoamines, and at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, applied to keratinous fibers for dyeing.
The composition achieves colored hair with good strand separation, a smoother feel, increased softness, and improved detangling ability.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR DYEING KERATINOUS FIBERS Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair. The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Many people have long been looking for ways to change their hair color, especially to hide gray hair.
[0003] In the field of dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, it is already known to dye hair keratinous fibers via various techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent dyeing, or dye precursors for permanent dyeing.
[0004] There are basically three types of hair dyeing processes: a. “permanent” dyeing, the function of which is to make a substantial change to the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fibers and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation; b. non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct dyeing, which does not use the oxidative condensation process and withstands four or five shampoo washes; it consists of dyeing the hair with dye compositions containing direct dyes; c. temporary dyeing, which results in a change in the natural hair color that remains from one shampoo to the next, and which serves to enhance or correct an already obtained shade. It can also be likened to a “makeup” process.
[0005] The temporary dyeing process involves the use of pigments. Specifically, the use of pigments on the surface of keratinous fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorations on dark hair, because the surface pigment masks the natural color of the fibers.
[0006] Temporary hair dyeing and / or makeup compositions may result in a non-cosmetic and / or unnatural hair feel; in particular, hair so dyed may lack softness and / or suppleness and / or strand separation.
[0007] Thus, there is a need to develop a composition for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair which has the advantage of having good cosmetic properties for the hair such as softness and suppleness while maintaining hair with good separation of the strands. Summary of the invention
[0008] An objective of the present application is to provide a composition for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair, which has good cosmetic properties for the hair such as softness and suppleness while maintaining hair with good separation of the strands.
[0009] Another objective of the present application is to provide a process for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0010] Thus, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: a. at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; b. at least one cationic surfactant chosen from a tertiary amidoamine; and c. at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0011] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a composition for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0012] The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair comprising applying the composition as described above to the keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0013] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain colored hair which has good separation of the strands and a smoother feel, is softer and more supple and easy to detangle.
[0014] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0015] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.
[0016] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0017] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0018] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically recited features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically recited features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0019] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing an amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which, if necessary, can be changed depending on the desired objective.
[0020] As used herein, molecular weight indicates weight average molecular weight.
[0021] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0022] The term "keratinous fibers" or "keratin fibers" herein refers to fibers containing keratin as a principal constituent, and examples of which include hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and the like.
[0023] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; b. at least one cationic surfactant chosen from a tertiary amidoamine; and c. at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures. Proteins
[0024] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa.
[0025] As used herein, 1 kDa is equivalent to 1000 g / mol.
[0026] Said protein may be of animal or plant origin.
[0027] Said protein may be a hydrolyzed or non-hydrolyzed protein.
[0028] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-hydrolyzed protein.
[0029] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-hydrolyzed protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa.
[0030] The term "hydrolyzed protein" as used herein means the product of the hydrolysis of homogeneous or heterogeneous proteins, or their respective components, of their derivatives, or of their combinations.
[0031] The term "unhydrolyzed protein" as used herein indicates that the protein is not hydrolyzed.
[0032] Protein sources useful for the composition of the present invention include, but are not limited to, plants and their respective components, seeds, animal bones, connective tissue, animal keratin, bovine and porcine collagen, human hair, wool, silk, elastin, reticulin, milk, egg, wheat, corn, soy, oats, casein, albumin or any collagenous or keratinous substance, or derivatives thereof.
[0033] Preferably, the protein is selected from silk protein, pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, which are not hydrolyzed.
[0034] More preferably, the protein is chosen from corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, which are non-hydrolyzed, even more preferably from corn protein, in particular zein, which is non-hydrolyzed.
[0035] More preferably, the protein has a molecular weight of at least 15 kDa.
[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one protein selected from silk protein, pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, the proteins are non-hydrolyzed and have a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa.
[0037] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one protein chosen from corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, the proteins are non-hydrolyzed and have a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa.
[0038] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one protein selected from corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, the proteins are non-hydrolyzed and have a molecular weight of at least 15 kDa.
[0039] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one corn protein, in particular zein, which is non-hydrolyzed and has a molecular weight of at least 15 kDa.
[0040] We can cite Arorganic-zein sold by the company AROMA HOLLY LIMITED.
[0041] Advantageously, the protein is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants
[0042] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant chosen from a tertiary amidoamine.
[0043] Preferably, the cationic surfactant of the present invention is selected from the compound represented by formula (I):
[0044] R1C(O)NH-(CH2)x-NR2R3(I)
[0045] in which • R । represents a linear or branched C8-26 alkyl; • R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, or linear or branched Cl-4 alkyl, • x = 1 to 5, and • it is understood that if Represents a hydrogen atom, then R3 cannot represent a hydrogen atom and if Represents a hydrogen atom, then R2 cannot represent a hydrogen atom.
[0046] Preferably, Ri is a linear or branched C10-24 alkyl, more preferably, Ri is a linear or branched C12-22 alkyl.
[0047] Non-limiting examples of Ri are C12 alkyl (lauryl), C13 alkyl, C14 alkyl (myristyl), C15 alkyl, C16 alkyl (cetyl or palmityl), C17 alkyl, C18 alkyl (stearyl), C19 alkyl, C20 alkyl (arachidyl), C21 alkyl, C22 alkyl (behenyl) and the isomer of these groups, such as isostearyl.
[0048] Preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-4 alkyl.
[0049] A non-limiting example of linear or branched C1-4 alkyl is methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl.
[0050] Preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a linear or branched C1-3 alkyl, and more preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a linear or branched C1-2 alkyl.
[0051] Preferably, x is an integer from 2 to 4, more preferably, x is 2 or 3.
[0052] In the present invention, it is understood that if Represents a hydrogen atom, then R3 cannot represent a hydrogen atom and if Represents a hydrogen atom, then R2 cannot represent a hydrogen atom.
[0053] Preferably, the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched C8-26 fatty acid amidopropyl tertiary amines and linear or branched C8-26 fatty acid amidoethyl tertiary amines.
[0054] A non-limiting example of the cationic surfactant includes behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, risostearamidoethyl dimethylamine, myristamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmita-midoethyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidoethyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0055] More preferably, the composition comprises at least one cationic surfactant chosen from linear or branched C12-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropyl amines, even more preferably chosen from linear C12-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropyl amines, such as behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and lauramidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0056] Advantageously, the cationic surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Coloring agents
[0057] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures. Pigments
[0058] Preferably, the coloring agent is chosen from pigments.
[0059] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more pigments.
[0060] The term "pigment" refers to any pigment that gives color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
[0061] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology by Kirk-Othmer and in the Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry by Ullmann.
[0062] They can be natural, of natural origin or non-natural.
[0063] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.
[0064] The pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. The term "mineral pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the inorganic pigments used in the present invention, mention may be made of iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
[0066] The pigment may be an organic pigment. The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
[0067] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
[0068] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0069] Examples which may also be cited include pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names:
[0070] - Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Pigment yellow 3 (CI 11710);
[0071] - Cosmenyl Yellow G: Yellow pigment 1 (CI 11680);
[0072] - Cosmenyl Orange GR: Pigment orange 43 (CI 71105);
[0073] - Cosmenyl Red R: Pigment red 4 (CI 12085);
[0074] - Cosmenyl Carminé FB: Pigment red 5 (CI 12490);
[0075] - Cosmenyl Violet RL: Violet pigment 23 (CI 51319);
[0076] - Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Blue pigment 15.1 (CI 74160);
[0077] - Cosmenyl Green GG: Green pigment 7 (CI 74260);
[0078] - Cosmenyl Black R: Black pigment 7 (CI 77266).
[0079] The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These pigments composites may be composed in particular of particles including an inorganic core, at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
[0080] The organic pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" designates dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0081] The mineral substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium-sodium borosilicate or calcium-aluminum and aluminum borosilicate.
[0082] Among the dyes, we can cite carminic acid. Other dyes known as: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).
[0083] An example of a lake that can be cited is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0084] The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. The term "special effect pigments" refers to pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain hue, vibrancy, and luminance level) that is non-uniform and changes depending on viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinguished from colored pigments that provide a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or transparent shade.
[0085] There are several types of special effect pigments: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index, such as pearlescent pigments, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
[0086] Examples of special effect pigments that may be cited include pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Pearlescent pigments that may be cited include Cellini pearlescent pigments sold by BASF (mica-TiO2 lake), Prestige pearlescent pigments sold by Eckart (mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments sold by Eckart (mica-Fe2O3) and Colorona pearlescent pigments sold by Merck (mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0087] We can also cite the golden mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company BASF under the names Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl sold in particular by BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearl sold in particular by BASF under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl sold in particular by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica), red-tinted mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386)(Colorona);yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl sold in particular by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red mother-of-pearl with a golden tint sold in particular by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl sold in particular by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a golden tint sold in particular by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver tint sold in particular by Merck under the name Xirona Silver and green-gold and pink-orange mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof. ;
[0088] Still as examples of pearlescent agents, we can also cite particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0089] The particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.
[0090] Finally, examples of nacres which may also be cited include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, in particular those sold by the company Mea-dowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver glitter flakes). It is also possible to envisage multi-layer pigments based on synthetic substrates, such as alumina, silica, calcium-sodium borosilicate, calcium-aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.
[0091] The special effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are composed as well as their physical and chemical nature and their surface state, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points that contrast with their surroundings and appear to sparkle.
[0092] The reflective particles may be chosen so as not to significantly modify the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or tint.
[0093] These particles can have various shapes and can in particular be in platelet or globular form, in particular in spherical form.
[0094] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multi-layer structure and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0095] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides.
[0096] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may include, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may consist of one or more organic and / or inorganic materials.
[0097] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being exhaustive.
[0098] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or metallic material.
[0099] The reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0100] As another example of reflective particles including a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0101] The particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal. The particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the names Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by the same company.
[0102] Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium may also be used, said substrate being coated with at least one of the following: at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] Examples that may be cited include aluminum powder, bronze powder or SiO2 coated copper powder sold under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.
[0104] Also included are interference effect pigments that are not fixed to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) and holographic interference glitter flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether substances that fluoresce in daylight or produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots, sold, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0105] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
[0106] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 pm.
[0107] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
[0108] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of these, carrying one or more functionalities with a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group which is compatible with the continuous medium or soluble therein.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxy stearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] As other dispersants which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for example Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and mixtures polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
[0110] The pigments used in the composition may be surface treated with an organic agent.
[0111] Thus, the pre-surface-treated pigments which are useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have been entirely or partially subjected to a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature with an organic agent, such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53 to 64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example camauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
[0112] Surface-treated pigments that are useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or may have undergone several surface treatments.
[0113] Surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available as is.
[0114] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
[0115] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the surfactant molecules or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0116] The surface treatment can thus be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0117] An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
[0118] The agent for surface treatment may represent from 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
[0119] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments: • a PEG-silicone treatment, for example the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW; • a methicone treatment, for example the SI surface treatment sold by LCW; • a dimethicone treatment, for example the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment sold by LCW; • a dimethicone / trimethyl siloxysilicate treatment, for example Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW; • a magnesium myristate treatment, for example the MM surface treatment sold by LCW; • an aluminum dimyristate treatment, such as the MI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi; • a treatment with perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether, for example the FHC surface treatment sold by LCW; • an isostearyl sebacate treatment, for example the HS surface treatment sold by Miyoshi; • a perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for example the PF surface treatment sold by Daito; • an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for example the FSA surface treatment sold by Daito; • a polymethylhydrogensiloxane / perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, for example the FS01 surface treatment sold by Daito; • an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer treatment, for example the ASC surface treatment sold by Daito; • an isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for example the ITT surface treatment sold by Daito; • an acrylate copolymer treatment, for example the APD surface treatment sold by Daito; • a perfluoroalkyl phosphate / isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for example the PF + ITT surface treatment sold by Daito.
[0120] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersant is present with organic or mineral pigments in the form of submicron-sized particles.
[0121] The term "submicron" or "submicronic" refers to pigments having a particle size that has been micronized by a micronization process and having an average particle size of less than one micrometer (pm), particularly between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0122] According to one embodiment, the dispersant and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment), according to a weight ratio, of between 1:4 and 4:1, in particular between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better still between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0123] The dispersant(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino silicone dispersants. Suitable dispersants that may be cited include: • aminosilicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those sold under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879 by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, sold by Genesee Polymers, • silicone acrylates such as Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041, and Tego® RC 1043, sold by Evonik, • polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones bearing carboxyl groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, epoxy silicones such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682 and GP-695 by Genesee Polymers, or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403, Tego® RC 1412 by Evonik.
[0124] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant(s) is (are) of amino-silicone type and is (are) cationic.
[0125] Preferably, the pigment(s) is(are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0126] In a variant of the invention, the pigments are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
[0127] In another variant of the invention, the pigments are mineral pigments. Direct dyeing
[0128] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dyes.
[0129] The expression "direct dyeing" refers to natural and / or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes which spread superficially on the fiber.
[0130] They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
[0131] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be cited include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as a mixture.
[0132] Among the natural direct dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, api-genidin and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna may also be used.
[0133] The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005% by weight to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0134] The pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0135] The direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Organic solvents
[0136] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0137] Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from C2-C8 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, C2-C8 fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
[0138] As used herein, the C2-C8 monohydric alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0139] Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from saturated, linear or branched C2-C6 monoalcohols, for example, ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol.
[0140] As used herein, C2-C8 glycols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0141] Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from saturated, linear or branched C2-C6 glycols, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol.
[0142] As used herein, C2-C8 fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated, and straight or branched, optionally a hydrogen atom bonded to a carbon atom is substituted with a hydroxyl group. Examples of C2-C8 fatty acids include may include acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, pentanoic acid, caproic acid, heptyl acid and caprylic acid.
[0143] More preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, propylene glycol, acetic acid, lactic acid and their mixtures.
[0144] Advantageously, the organic solvent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 92% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 90% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] In certain preferred embodiments, the C2-C8 monoalcohols, in particular ethanol, are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, preferably from 15% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0146] In certain preferred embodiments, the C2-C8 glycols, in particular propylene glycol, are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 88% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0147] The presence of organic solvent can improve the dissolution of proteins and can improve the dyeing time.
[0148] In certain preferred embodiments, the organic solvent comprises C2-C8 fatty acids, in particular acetic acid, lactic acid, or mixtures thereof, which are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Water
[0149] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises water.
[0150] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 70% by weight, more preferably from 15% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] Preferably, the weight ratio between the organic solvent and the water is from 0.5:1 to 5:1.
[0152] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, especially ethanol, and water, wherein the weight ratio of C2-C8 monoalcohols to water is from 0.5:1 to 2:1.
[0153] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C2-C8 glycol, especially propylene glycol, and water, wherein the weight ratio of C2-C8 glycol to water is from 0.5:1 to 2:1. Adjuvants
[0154] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvants.
[0155] For example, the composition may include one or more additives that are well known in the art, such as antioxidants, pH adjusters, and preservatives.
[0156] A person skilled in the art can select these optional additional compounds and their amounts such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the invention are not, or substantially not, adversely affected by the contemplated addition(s).
[0157] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, a. from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one protein chosen from silk protein, pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, the proteins are non-hydrolyzed and have a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; b. from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant chosen from the compound represented by formula (I):
[0158] RiC(O)NH-(CH2)x-NR2R3 (I)
[0159] in which • R । represents a linear or branched C8-26 alkyl; • R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, or linear or branched Cl-4 alkyl, • x = 1 to 5, and • it is understood that if Represents a hydrogen atom, then R3 cannot represent a hydrogen atom and if Represents a hydrogen atom, then R2 cannot represent a hydrogen atom; and a. from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one pigment.
[0160] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, a. from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, of at least one corn protein, in which the corn protein is non-hydrolyzed and has a molecular weight of at least 15 kDa; b. from 1% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant chosen from linear or branched amidopropyl tertiary fatty acid amines C12-22, preferably selected from linear C12-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropyl amines, such as behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and lauramidopropyl dimethylamine; and c. from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one pigment chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments. Preparation and Use
[0161] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods in the cosmetic field and can be used for dyeing hair.
[0162] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a process for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair comprising applying the composition as described above to the keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0163] The process can be repeated several times to obtain the desired coloring. EXAMPLES
[0164] The following examples are given for the purpose of illustration of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope.
[0165] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0166] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Zein (molecular weight of at least 10 kDa) Arorganic-zein AROMA HOLLY LIMITED Stearamidopropyl dimethoxylamine MACKINE 301 U MB VERDANT SPECIALTY SOLUTIONS RED 30 COVASOP RED W 3773 SENSIENT
[0167] Inventive Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3
[0168] The compositions according to Inventive Examples (IE) 1-2 and the Comparative Examples (EC.) 1-3 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated - MA: active ingredient):
[0169] [Tables2] Components El. 1 El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Ethanol 20 - 20 20 20 Water 26 - 26 26 26 Propylene glycol qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Zein 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 1 1 - - - Myristyl alcohol - - - - 1 Sodium hyaluronate - - - 1 - RED 30 / CI73360 2.4 MA 2.4 MA 2.4 MA 2.4 MA 2.4 MA Lactic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
[0170] Compositions 1 and 2 were compositions according to the present invention.
[0171] Comparative compositions 1 to 3 did not include at least one cationic surfactant chosen from a tertiary amidoamine.
[0172] Preparation procedure:
[0173] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, 1. Lactic acid was added into an organic solvent, and then the compound stearoyl-ramidopropyl dimethylamine, sodium hyaluronate or myristyl alcohol was added into the mixture under a water bath at 50°C for 10 minutes; 2. The obtained solution was removed from the water bath, then water and ethanol were added to the solution, and the obtained solution was mixed for 2 minutes; 3. the protein was slowly added into the solution in step 2) and mixed for 10 minutes; 4. The coloring agent was added into the solution in step 3) and mixed for 5 minutes to obtain a homogeneous composition. Assessment :
[0174] Each composition was evaluated in terms of softness, smooth hair texture and detangling ability delivered by the composition. Softness of hair
[0175] 1.5 g of the test sample was applied to a 3 g lock of hair natural, then the hair strand was blow-dried. Then, the strand was folded and scored according to the following standard by the 6 professional hairdressers, and the scores were averaged:
[0176] 5: as soft as natural hair;
[0177] 4: Slightly harder than natural hair, easy to bend and comb;
[0178] 3: slightly hard to bend and comb;
[0179] 2: very difficult to fold and comb; and
[0180] 1: Extremely hard and cannot be bent or combed. Smooth hair texture
[0181] 1.5 g of the test sample was applied to a 3 g lock of hair natural, then the hair strand was blow-dried. Then, 6 professional hairdressers slid their fingers over the surface of the hair strand from the roots to the tips of the hair to feel the smooth texture, then the scores were given according to the following standard, and the scores were averaged:
[0182] 1: very crisp, cannot be hand combed;
[0183] 2: squeaking and with friction;
[0184] 3: can be hand combed with light rubbing;
[0185] 4: easy to comb by hand; and
[0186] 5: Smooth as silk to the touch in the hand. Detangling capacity
[0187] 1.5 g of the test sample was applied to a 3 g lock of hair natural, then the hair strand was blow-dried. Then, 6 professional hairdressers inserted their fingers into the hair strand and the fingers slid from the root to the tip of the hair to measure the detangling ability, then the scores were given according to the following standard, and the scores were averaged:
[0188] 1: cannot be combed at all;
[0189] 2: difficult to comb with a lot of friction;
[0190] 3: can be combed with medium friction;
[0191] 4: easy to comb with low friction; and
[0192] 5: easy to comb without any friction.
[0193] The performances of each composition have been summarized in Table 3.
[0194] [Tables3] Properties Ex. 1 Ex. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Hair softness 5 5 3.2 1 3 Smooth hair texture 5 5 2.8 4 2.7 Detangling 5 5 3.4 2 2 Table 3 Performance of each composition
[0195] It can be seen in Table 3 that the compositions according to the present invention comprising at least one cationic surfactant chosen from a tertiary amidoamine allow you to obtain colored hair that has good separation of the strands and a smoother feel, is softer and easy to detangle.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: a) at least one protein with a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; b) at least one cationic surfactant chosen from a tertiary amidoamine; and c) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the protein is selected from silk protein, pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, collagen, corn protein and mixtures thereof, which are non-hydrolyzed, preferably the protein is selected from corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, which are non-hydrolyzed, more preferably from corn protein, which is non-hydrolyzed.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from the compound represented by the formula (I): R^OjNEHCHOx-NRzR^I) in which - R । represents a linear or branched C8-26 alkyl; - R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, or linear or branched C1-4 alkyl, - x = 1 to 5, and - it is understood that if R2represents a hydrogen atom, then R3 cannot represent a hydrogen atom and if R3represents a hydrogen atom, then R2 cannot represent a hydrogen atom.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched C8-26 fatty acid amidopropyl tertiary amines and linear or branched C8-26 fatty acid amidoethyl tertiary amines.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the cationic surfactant is chosen from linear or branched C12-22 fatty acid amidopropyl tertiary amines, preferably chosen from linear C12-22 fatty acid amidopropyl tertiary amines, such as behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and lauramidopropyl dimethylamine.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the cationic surfactant is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 6% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the composition comprises at least one pigment chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the composition comprises at least one organic solvent, preferably chosen from C2-C8 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, C2-C8 fatty acids and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from ethanol, propylene glycol, acetic acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof.
9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, a) from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one protein selected from a silk protein, a pea protein, a soy protein, a wheat protein, a corn protein, collagen and mixtures thereof, the proteins being non-hydrolyzed and having a molecular weight of at least 10 kDa; b) from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from the compound represented by the formula (I): RjCCONH-CCH^x-NR^a) in which - R । represents a linear or branched C8-26 alkyl; - R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, or linear or branched Cl-4 alkyl, - x = 1 to 5, and - it is understood that if R2 represents a hydrogen atom, then R3 cannot represent a hydrogen atom and if R3 represents a hydrogen atom, then R2 cannot represent a hydrogen atom;and (c) from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one pigment.;
10. Process for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to keratinous fibers such as hair.