ANHYDROUS SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIAL AND NECESSARY INCLUDING IT

Abstract

ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND / OR MAKEUP OF KERATINOUS MATERIAL AND A KIT INCLUDING IT. The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one cross-linked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer, and one of their combinations; b) at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, an extract of Polygonum cuspidatum root, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof; and c) at least 40% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition. The present invention also relates to a kit comprising said anhydrous composition and a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous material. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: ANHYDROUS SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIAL AND NECESSARY COMPRISING IT technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a kit comprising said anhydrous composition and a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. CONTEXT

[0002] The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, microorganisms and damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.

[0003] The development of skincare and / or makeup products is ongoing. Many cosmetic active ingredients are used in skincare and / or makeup products.

[0004] However, certain active ingredients such as Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, ferulic acid, and glycyrrhetinic acid have very low water solubility, so hydrated products containing them are not stable. Furthermore, ferulic acid is sensitive to certain environmental factors such as oxygen and water.

[0005] It is desired to develop cosmetic products comprising such active ingredients, which are stable.

[0006] Moreover, such commercial products do not have an appropriate viscosity, cannot be applied easily or present a problem of dripping.

[0007] Thus, it is also desirable that such cosmetic products have an appropriate viscosity so that they can be applied easily and that there is no problem of dripping. Summary of the invention

[0008] Thus, an object of the present invention is to develop products comprising cosmetic active ingredients sensitive to oxygen and water and / or with low solubility in water, such products are stable and have an appropriate viscosity so that they can be applied easily and there is no problem of dripping.

[0009] Another object of the present invention is to propose a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes an anhydrous composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer, and one of their combinations; b. at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, an extract of polygonum cuspidatum root, glycyrrhizin, glycyrhetinic acid and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof; and c. at least 40% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0011] The inventors have discovered that the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is stable and has an appropriate viscosity so that it can be applied easily and there is no problem of dripping.

[0012] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a kit, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: i. the anhydrous composition as described above; and ii. water or an aqueous composition,

[0013] in which the anhydrous composition is separated from the water or aqueous composition.

[0014] The kit can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, in particular the face.

[0015] According to a third aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising mixing the anhydrous composition with water or the aqueous composition of the kit as described above to form a mixture and applying the mixture to the keratinous materials.

[0016] Other features and advantages of the invention will become clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by this invention. Where the definition of a term in this invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by this invention, the definition described in this document shall apply.

[0018] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0019] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0020] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of"). For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and hair. Facial skin is particularly considered in the context of the present invention.

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably contains no water. Where appropriate, small amounts of water may be supplied by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied.

[0022] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be changed as required for the intended purpose, if applicable.

[0023] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0024] According to the first aspect, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer, and one of their combinations; b. at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, an extract of polygonum cuspidatum root, glycyrrhizin, glycyrhetinic acid, and their derivatives and mixtures; and c. at least 40% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition. Crosslinked acrylic polymers

[0025] The anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer, and one of their combinations.

[0026] Preferably, the hydrophobic co-monomer is chosen from a C10-C30 alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0027] More preferably, the hydrophobic co-monomer is chosen from the C10-C30 alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to the formula (C) below: Formula (C) -C— -DR. v 7 I II O

[0028] in which R2 designates H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate motifs) and, preferably, H (acrylate motifs) or CH3 (methacrylate motifs), Ri designates a C10-C30 alkyl radical.

[0029] The C10-C30 alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0030] Preferably, the crosslinked acrylic polymer is chosen from carbomer and copolymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: i. essentially acrylic acid, ii. an ester of formula (C) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R i denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical, iii. and a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, for example diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

[0031] More preferably, the crosslinked acrylic polymer is chosen from carbomer, a C10-30 alkyl acrylic acid / acrylate crosslinked polymer, and one of their combinations.

[0032] Advantageously, the crosslinked acrylic polymer is present in the anhydrous composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight, most preferably from 0.6% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active ingredients

[0033] The anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one principle active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] As derivatives of ferulic acid, we can cite its esters and / or cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0035] Examples of ferulic acid esters include methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, isopropyl ferulate, or ferulic acid esters of sterols, such as oryzanol, in particular y-oryzanol.

[0036] Glycyrrhetinic acid can be α-glycyrrhetinic acid and / or [3-glycyrrhetinic acid.

[0037] As derivatives of glycyrrhetinic acid, its salts and esters can be cited.

[0038] Preferred salts of glycyrrhetinic acids are alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium or magnesium salts, ammonium salts or organic base salts, such as methylamine, dimethylamine, triethylamine, piperidine, ethylenediamine, lysine, choline hydroxide, meglumine, morpholine or arginine.

[0039] Preferred esters of glycyrrhetinic acids are esters of saturated, linear or branched alcohols having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferred esters are methyl esters, glyceryl esters, and stearyl esters.

[0040] Preferably, the active ingredient is chosen from ferulic acid, an extract of polygonum cuspidatum root, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and one of their combinations.

[0041] Advantageously, the active principle is present in the anhydrous composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, most preferably from 3% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 12% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight of ferulic acid, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0043] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight of polygonum cuspidatum root extract, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0044] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 6% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0045] More preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises 3% to 10% by weight of ferulic acid, 1% to 5% by weight of Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, and 0.3% to 6% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition. Polyols

[0046] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises at least 40% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0047] The term “polyol” here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups.

[0048] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0049] Preferably, the polyol is chosen from among the C2-C6 polyols.

[0050] More preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and one of their combinations.

[0051] In the present invention, the definition of polyol includes all possible isomers. For example, propylene glycol includes 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, and 1,1-propylene glycol. Butylene glycol includes 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, etc.

[0052] More preferably, the polyol is chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin and one of their combinations.

[0053] Advantageously, the polyol is present in the anhydrous composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 65% by weight to 95% by weight, more preferably from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0055] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 2% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 30% by weight of propanediol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0056] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 10% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 20% by weight to 70% by weight, more preferably from 30% by weight to 60% by weight of dipropylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0057] More preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 5% by weight to 15% by weight of glycerin, from 10% by weight to 30% by weight of propanediol, and 30% by weight to 60% by weight of dipropylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0058] Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition: a. from 0.6% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, a C10-30 alkyl acrylic acid / acrylate crosslinked polymer, and one of their combinations; b. from 3% by weight to 12% by weight of at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid, an extract of polygonum cuspidatum root, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and one of their combinations; and c. 70 to 90% by weight of at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, and one of their combinations.

[0059] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention is stable and has an appropriate viscosity so that it can be applied easily and there is no problem of dripping.

[0060] By "stable" is meant that there is no significant change in terms of viscosity and appearance after the anhydrous composition has been stored at 55°C for at least one week.

[0061] Viscosity measurement is generally carried out at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), using a Rheomat RM200 viscometer equipped with an M3 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of spindle rotation in a composition (time at the end of which the stabilization of the viscosity and the spindle rotation speed is observed), at a shear speed of 200 rpm.

[0062] It is desirable that the viscosity of the anhydrous composition should range from 840 to 2100 mPa s (M3).

[0063] Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is transparent.

[0064] The term "transparent" according to the present invention is intended to qualify compositions exhibiting a turbidity, measured according to the method described below, of less than 20 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units).

[0065] Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a turbidity of less than 15 NTU.

[0066] Turbidity is measured using a Hach model 2100N turbidimeter at room temperature (25 °C), where the sample cells for the turbidity test are made of quartz glass with reference number 2084900. Necessary

[0067] According to the second aspect, the necessary components according to the present invention comprise: i. the anhydrous composition as described above; and ii. water or an aqueous composition,

[0068] in which the anhydrous composition is separated from the water or aqueous composition. Aqueous composition

[0069] The aqueous composition of the device according to the present invention comprises water.

[0070] Advantageously, the aqueous composition comprises water in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous composition.

[0071] Additional cosmetic active ingredient(s)

[0072] Depending on the final objective, the necessary may include one or more additional cosmetic active agent(s) in the anhydrous composition and / or the aqueous composition according to their nature.

[0073] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient according to the final use of the required product according to the present invention.

[0074] It is also easy for a person skilled in the art to decide whether to add the additional cosmetic active agent(s) to the anhydrous and / or aqueous composition. Adjuvants or additives

[0075] The device according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in the anhydrous composition and / or the aqueous composition depending on their nature, for example perfumes, preservatives and pH regulators.

[0076] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant or adjuvants added to the necessary according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties associated with the necessary according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition.

[0077] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to decide whether to add the adjuvant or adjuvants to the anhydrous composition and / or the aqueous composition.

[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not include a surfactant. Preparation and use

[0079] The anhydrous part and the aqueous part of the device according to the present invention can be prepared by conventional processes in the cosmetic field.

[0080] In order to store the necessary components according to the present invention, the anhydrous part and the aqueous part are kept separate from each other in two separate containers or Preferably, a container should be used before the anhydrous and aqueous portions are mixed. When using a single container, the aqueous portion may be packaged within the body of a container that is closed with a cap containing the anhydrous portion, with a portable and / or detachable separator provided between the anhydrous and aqueous portions. These packages include those described in FR-A-2,476,607, FA-A-2,453,793, or FR-A-2,645,740.

[0081] The user can mix the anhydrous part and the aqueous part to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

[0082] The mixing can be done by gently grinding with the fingers.

[0083] The device according to the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0084] According to the third aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising mixing the anhydrous composition with water or the aqueous composition of the necessary as described above to form a mixture and applying the mixture to the keratinous materials.

[0085] Keratinous materials include the skin, in particular the face. Examples

[0086] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0087] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0088] [Table 1]

[0089] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Ferulic acid ORYZA FERULIX ORYZA OIL & FAT CHEMICAL Polygonum cuspidatum root extract POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT GUILIN LAYN NATURAL INGREDIENTS Glycyrrhetinic acid 18B-GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID GIVAUDAN Carbomer ACRYPOL 980 COREL PHARMA CHEM Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21 POLYMER LUBRIZOL Phenylethyl resorcinol SYMWHITE 377 SYMRISE Ammonium polyacryloyl-dimethyl taurate HOSTACERIN AMPS CLARIANT

[0090] Inventive Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2

[0091] The compositions of Inventive Examples (El.) 1-4 and Comparative Examples (EC) 1-2 were prepared according to the quantities given in Table 2. The quantity of each component is given as a % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0092] [Table 2]

[0093] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EC. 1 EL. 2 EL 3 EL 4 EC. 2 Glycerin 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 Propanediol 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosslinked Polymer 0.9 Carbomer 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate 0.5 Ferulic Acid 7.3 7.3 7.3 Polygonum cuspidatum Root Extract 1.9 5 1.9 Phenylethyl Resorcinol 1.2 1.2 Glycyrrhetinic Acid 0.8 3 0.8 Dipropylene Glycol QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0094] The compositions of inventive examples 1-4 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0095] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, an extract of polygonum cuspidatum root, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer and copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer.

[0097] Preparation process:

[0098] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: 1. Introduction of polyols into a main pot by stirring and heating to 85 °C to obtain a clear liquid; 2. Introduction of the active ingredient (if applicable) into the clear liquid in the main pot, stirring to obtain a yellow to brown / transparent liquid. 3. Introduction of crosslinked acrylic polymer (if applicable), ammonium polyacryloyl-dimethyltaurate (if applicable) into the main pot, stirring to obtain a uniform mixture, then cooling to room temperature. Assessment

[0099] Each composition of inventive examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-2 was evaluated as follows. Turbidity

[0100] The turbidity of each sample was measured using a Hach model 2100N turbidimeter at room temperature (25 °C), where the sample cells for the turbidity test were made of quartz glass, part number 2084900. Viscosity

[0101] The viscosity of each sample was measured using a Lamy Rheology Rheomat RM 200 viscometer with spindle #3 at a speed of 200 rpm, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The values ​​were recorded at T = 30 seconds and T = 10 minutes. Stability

[0102] The samples were placed in an oven at 55 °C for one week, then cooled to room temperature (25 °C). The viscosity of each was then measured as described above.

[0103] If the viscosity of the sample under test is >1050 mPa.s, there is no obvious decrease or increase (±210 mPa-s) after long-term storage (one week period) and the appearance of the sample is transparent (i.e. the turbidity of the sample is less than 20 NTU), then the stability is considered to be “SUCCESS”.

[0104] The test results of the appearance, viscosity and stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-2 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0105] [Table 3]

[0106] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 EC. 1 El. 2 EL 3 El. 4 EC. 2 Turbidity (NTU) 6 28 8 9 8 6 Viscosity (mPa-s) T=30 s 1411 840 1067 1516 1348 995 T=10 min 1428 848 1058 1344 1168 1285 Stability Success Failure*1 Success Success Success Failure*2

[0107] Failure*1: The viscosity of the sample after one week was not tested because its turbidity was greater than 20 NTU.

[0108] Failure*2: The viscosity of the composition in comparative example 2 decreased from 995 / 1285 mPa-s to 798 / 802 mPa-s.

[0109] It can be seen that the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 4 are transparent and stable, and have a viscosity suitable for the application.

Claims

Claims

1. An anhydrous composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, copolymers of acrylic acid and a hydrophobic co-monomer, and one of their combinations; b) at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid and its derivatives, an extract of polygonum cuspidatum root, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof; and c) at least 40% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic co-monomer is selected from a C10-C30 alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, preferably, the hydrophobic co-monomer is selected from the C10-C30 alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to the formula (C) below: „r) ___„ ......Formula (C) C ' £ WWW*. J WWW.*. R-î c in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, Ri denoting a C10-C30 alkyl radical.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the crosslinked acrylic polymer is selected from carbomer, a C10-30 alkyl acrylic acid / acrylate crosslinked polymer, and a combination thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the active ingredient is selected from ferulic acid, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid, and a combination thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyol is selected from C2-C6 polyols, preferably the polyol is selected from glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and one of their combinations, more preferably the polyol is selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, and one of their combinations.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polyol is present in an amount from 60% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 65% by weight to 95% by weight, more preferably from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition: a) 0.6% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one crosslinked acrylic polymer selected from carbomer, a C10-30 alkyl acrylic acid / acrylate crosslinked polymer, and combinations thereof; b) 3% by weight to 12% by weight of at least one active ingredient selected from ferulic acid, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid, and combinations thereof; and c) 70% to 90% by weight of at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, and combinations thereof.

8. Necessary, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: i) the anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7; and ii) water or an aqueous composition, wherein the anhydrous composition is separated from the water or aqueous composition.

9. Necessary according to claim 8, wherein the aqueous composition comprises water, preferably in an amount from 60% by weight to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous composition.

10. Non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising mixing the anhydrous composition with water or the aqueous composition of the necessary according to claim 8 or 9 to form a mixture and applying the mixture to the keratinous materials.