anhydrous skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials

Abstract

Anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25 °C selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, alkyl (C16-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations; b) more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, aliphatic polycarboxylic acid esters and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one C2-C6 polyol. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Anhydrous skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] It is common practice in the cosmetics industry to prepare compositions comprising various active ingredients for diverse purposes. Furthermore, an ultimate goal of the cosmetics industry has always been to provide consumers with highly effective products offering skin benefits such as hydration, whitening, cleansing, freshening, and others.

[0003] However, some cosmetic active ingredients are sensitive to water and / or oxygen, typical representatives of which are ascorbic acid, ferulic acid and tocopherol.

[0004] Some products focus on a water-free cosmetic base to avoid any contact with water. For example, some kits include an anhydrous composition and an aqueous composition, in which the cosmetic active ingredients are in the form of anhydrous powder. However, the bioavailability of the active ingredient poses a challenge for some products. There are also some kits that include an anhydrous composition and an aqueous composition, in which cosmetic active ingredients are present in the anhydrous composition; the two compositions can form a microemulsion when mixed together. However, some anhydrous compositions are sticky, which is unpleasant for consumers.

[0005] There is always a need for an anhydrous composition, especially for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which can form a microemulsion when mixed with water or an aqueous composition, which is not too sticky. Summary of the invention

[0006] Thus, an object of the present invention is to propose an anhydrous composition, in particular for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which can form a microemulsion when mixed with water or an aqueous composition, which is not too sticky.

[0007] Another object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0008] According to the first aspect, the present invention proposes an anhydrous composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25 °C selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, alkyl (C16-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations; b. more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, aliphatic polycarboxylic acid esters and aliphatic alcohols comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition; and c. at least one C2-C6 polyol.

[0009] The inventors discovered that the anhydrous composition can form a microemulsion when mixed with water or an aqueous composition by gentle mixing, which does not exhibit a sticky sensation.

[0010] The aqueous composition according to the present invention comprises 40% by weight or more of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: i. mixing the anhydrous composition according to the present invention and an aqueous composition to form a microemulsion; and ii. the application of the microemulsion on keratinous materials.

[0012] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "range from...to...".

[0014] As used herein, the term "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically cited features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0015] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (namely "consisting of").

[0016] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0017] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall prevail.

[0018] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably contains no water. Where appropriate, small amounts of water may be supplied by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied.

[0021] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25 °C selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, alkyl (C16-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations; b. more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, aliphatic polycarboxylic acid esters and aliphatic alcohols comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition; and c. at least one C2-C6 polyol. Non-ionic surfactant

[0022] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25 °C selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, alkyl (Ci6-C3o) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations.

[0023] The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value is defined according to Griffin's method in J. Ploughshare, Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. In particular, the "HLB" value refers to the ratio between hydrophilic and lipophilic groups. in surfactants, and relates to the solubility of surfactants. Surfactants with a higher HLB are more soluble in a hydrophilic system. fatty acid polyglyceryl ester

[0024] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.

[0025] Preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is chosen from mono-, di- and tri-esters of glycerin and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid including 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, capric acid and caprylic acid.

[0026] Preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate,PG6 trilaurate, PG7 caprate, PG7 dicaprate, PG7 tricaprate, PG7 caprylate, PG7 dicaprylate, PG7 tricaprylate, PG7 laurate, PG7 dilaurate, PG7 trilaurate, PG8 caprate, PG8 dicaprate, PG8 tricaprate, PG8 caprylate, PG8 dicaprylate, PG8 tricaprylate, PG8 laurate, PG8 dilaurate, PG8 trilaurate, PG9 caprate, PG9 dicaprate, PG9 tricaprate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 dicaprylate, PG9 tricaprylate, PG9 laurate, dilaurate PG9, PG9 trilaurate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 dilaurate and PG10 trilaurate.

[0027] It is more preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be chosen from polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs.

[0028] Examples of polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs include polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, for example, a product sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SUNSOFT Q-8H-C.

[0029] Alkyl (C-C 301 polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ether

[0030] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ether.

[0031] Preferably, the alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ether, which can be used as the nonionic surfactants according to the present invention, is selected from:

[0032] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30; Polyoxyethylenated (30) Polyoxypropylenated (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4630 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0033] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylenated (12) Polyoxypropylenated (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4612 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0034] PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylenated (24) Polyoxypropylenated (13) Decyltetradeceth-24 Ether such as those sold under the name UNILUBE 50MT-2200B by NOF Corporation,

[0035] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylenated (20) Polyoxypropylenated (6) Decyltetradeceth Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4620 by Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0036] PPG-4 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylenated (1) Polyoxypropylenated (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold by Nikkol PBC-31 of Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0037] PPG-8 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylenated (1) Polyoxypropylenated (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-41 by Nikko Chemicals Co,

[0038] PPG-4 Ceteth-10; Polyoxyethylenated (10) Polyoxypropylenated (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-33 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0039] PPG-4 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylenated (20) Polyoxypropylenated (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-34 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,

[0040] PPG-5 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylenated (20) Polyoxypropylenated (5) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Procetyl AWS by Croda Inc,

[0041] PPG-8 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylenated (20) Polyoxypropylenated (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-44 by Nikko Chemicals Co. and

[0042] PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylenated Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO) such as those sold under the name Unisafe 34S-23 by Pola Chemical Industries.

[0043] It may be preferable that the alkyl (C16-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ether be selected from the alkyl (C16-C24) polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) ethers, for example PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth-20 and PPG-23 Steareth-34.

[0044] It is preferable that the alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ether be chosen from PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth-20, and one of their combinations. Alkyl polyglucosides

[0045] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one alkyl polyglycoside.

[0046] Preferably, the alkyl polyglycosides that can be used as a non-ionic surfactant according to the present invention are of formula (I):

[0047] RO-Gx (I)

[0048] in which • R is a C6-Ci2 alkyl group, preferably a C6-Ci0 alkyl group, • G is a fraction derived from a reducing saccharide containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a glucose motif, and • x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglycoside from 1 to 10.

[0049] For a preferred alkyl polyglycoside, x' can only take integer values. In any physical sample of alkyl polyglycosides, there will generally be molecules having different values ​​of x'. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x', which can take non-integer values. In this disclosure, the values ​​of x' should be understood as average values.

[0050] The hydrophilic polysaccharide portion of the alkyl polyglycoside contains approximately 1 to approximately 10, preferably 1.4 to 3, saccharide units on average. The saccharide unit may be galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl, and / or galactosyl units, and preferably a glucoside unit. Mixtures of these saccharide fractions may be used in the alkyl polysaccharide. Glucoside is the preferred saccharide fraction.

[0051] The hydrophobic group on the alkyl polyglycoside is an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms on average. Preferably, the alkyl group is mainly a straight-chain C6-CiO alkyl group.

[0052] The useful alkyl polyglycosides of the present invention are also disclosed in US patent 4,565,647, Llenado, issued January 21, 1986, having a hydrophobic group containing from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 10 carbon atoms, and a polysaccharide, for example, a hydrophilic polyglycoside group containing from about 1.3 to about 10, preferably from about 1.3 to about 3, most preferably from about 1.3 to about 2.7 saccharide units. Any reducing saccharide containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms For example, glucose, galactose, and galactosyl fractions can be replaced by glucosyl fractions (optionally, the hydrophobic group is attached to positions 2, 3, 4, etc., thus yielding a glucose or galactose as opposed to a glucoside or galactoside). Intersaccharide bonds can be, for example, between position 1 of the additional saccharide motifs and positions 2, 3, 4, and / or 6 on the preceding saccharide motifs.

[0053] Preferably, in formula (I): • R is a C8-Ci0 alkyl group, • G is chosen from the motifs galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl and galactosyl, • x' is worth from 1.4 to 3.

[0054] More preferably, in formula (I), G is a glucoside. In other words, the alkyl glycoside is chosen from among the alkyl glucosides, where the alkyl is a C8-C alkyl group. 10-

[0055] Examples of alkyl polyglycoside include, but are not limited to: caprylyl / caprylyl glucoside, decyl glucoside and octyl glucoside.

[0056] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside and one of their combinations.

[0057] Preferred alkyl polyglucosides are available under the trade name, for example:

[0058] For decyl glucoside: Plantacare® 2000 UP sold by Cognis,

[0059] For caprylyl / capryl glucoside: Oramix™ CG 110 sold by Seppic,

[0060] For octyl glucoside: Rewosan sold by Rewo.

[0061] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, aliphatic polycarboxylic acid esters and aliphatic alcohols comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] The term "oil" is intended to designate a non-aqueous compound immiscible with water which is liquid at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (l.013xl05 Pa). N-acyl amino acid ester

[0064] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one N-acyl amino acid ester.

[0065] Preferably, the N-acyl amino acid ester that can be used as an oil according to the present invention has the formula (II):

[0066] R1(CO)N(R2)CH(R3)(CH2)n(CO)OR4(II)

[0067] in which: • n is an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2, • Ri represents a linear or branched C5-C2i alkyl or alkenyl, • R2 represents a hydrogen or a linear or branched Ci-C3 alkyl group, • R3 represents a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, or linear alkyl group or branched at C3-C4, • R4 represents a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl or a linear or branched C2-C10 alkenyl, or a sterol residue.

[0068] Preferably, the Ri(CO)- group is an acyl group of an acid selected from capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, coconut oil fatty acids, and palm kernel oil fatty acids. These fatty acids may also contain a hydroxyl group. More preferably, this is lauric acid.

[0069] Preferably, the N(R2)CH(R3)(CH2)n(CO)- portion of the amino acid ester is selected from the following amino acids: glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, proline, hydroxyproline, beta-alanine, aminobutyric acid, aminocaproic acid, sarcosine, or N-methyl-beta-alanine. Even more preferably, it is sarcosine.

[0070] Preferably, the amino acid esters corresponding to the OR4 group are obtained from alcohols selected from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, tert-butanol, isobutanol, 3-methyl-l-butanol, 2-methyl-l-butanol, fusel oil, pentanol, hexanol, cyclohexanol, octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, 2-hexadecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.

[0071] N-acyl amino acid esters are preferably obtained from natural sources of amino acids. In this case, the amino acids are derived from the hydrolysis of natural plant proteins (oats, wheat, soybeans, palm, coconut) and thus necessarily lead to mixtures of amino acids, which must then be esterified and N-acylated. The preparation of such amino acids is more preferably described in patent application FR 2 796 550.

[0072] The most preferred N-acyl amino acid ester is isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate (as shown in formula (III)), such as the product sold under the name ELDEW SL-205 by the Ajinomoto company.

[0073] Formula (III)

[0074] The N-acyl amino acid esters preferably used for the present invention and their synthesis are described in patent applications EP 1044676 and EP 0928608 by Ajinomoto CO.

[0075]

[0076] Esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms

[0077] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one aliphatic polycarboxylic acid and aliphatic alcohol ester comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0078] As esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, we can mention in particular the esters of aliphatic polyacids in C2-C26 and of aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols in Ci-Ci0, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, preferably greater than or equal to 10.

[0079] Still within the context of this variant, C4-C22 aliphatic dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C2-C6 aliphatic mono- or dihydroxy alcohols can also be used.

[0080] More preferably, the esters of aliphatic polycarboxylic acids and aliphatic alcohols comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms are selected from diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Advantageously, the oil is present in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C2-C6 polyols

[0082] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises at least one c2-c6 polyol.

[0083] The term “polyol” here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups.

[0084] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0085] The C2-C6 polyol can be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and any combination thereof.

[0086] In the present invention, the definition of polyol includes all possible isomers. For example, propylene glycol includes 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol and 1,1-propylene glycol; butylene glycol includes 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, etc.

[0087] Preferably, the anhydrous composition contains at least one C2-C6 polyol selected from dipropylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, and one of their combinations.

[0088] Preferably, the C2-C6 polyol is present in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 96% by weight, and more preferably from 80% by weight to 94% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 2% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 30% by weight of propanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises from 10% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 20% by weight to 70% by weight, more preferably from 30% by weight to 60% by weight of dipropylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] More preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises 5% by weight to 15% by weight of glycerin, 10% by weight to 30% by weight of propanediol, and 30% by weight to 60% by weight of dipropylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0093] Preferably, the present invention proposes an anhydrous skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 2% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at 25°C chosen from a polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 motifs of glycerol, alkyl (C16-C24) polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) ethers, C8-C10 alkyl polyglucosides, and one of their combinations; b. from 3% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, C4-C22 aliphatic dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C2-C6 aliphatic mono- or dihydroxy alcohols, and one of their combinations; and c. 80% by weight to 94% by weight of at least one C2-C6 polyol selected from glycerin, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, and one of their combinations. cosmetic active ingredients

[0094] Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises one or more water- and / or oxygen-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients.

[0095] Examples of water- and / or oxygen-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients include ferulic acid, enzymes (e.g., lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase or cellulases), natural extracts (such as green tea, balsam extract, thyme extract, polygonum cuspidatum root extract), procyanidin oligomers (OPCs) (such as hawthorn OPC, pine OPC and grape OPC), vitamins (preferably vitamin B (e.g., vitamin Bb, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9 or Bn), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters or retinol (vitamin A) and its esters), pantothenic acid, phosphate derivatives and glucosylated derivatives, urea and rutin.

[0096] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more cosmetic active ingredients that are not sensitive to water and / or oxygen.

[0097] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients not sensitive to water and / or oxygen include glycyrrhetinic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol, capryloyl salicylic acid, etc.

[0098] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the cosmetic active ingredients according to the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0099] The composition according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, preservatives and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or potassium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant or adjuvants added to the composition according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition. pharmaceutical form and use

[0101] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can be prepared by conventional processes in the cosmetic field.

[0102] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can be mixed with water or an aqueous composition to obtain a microemulsion.

[0103] Alternatively, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be a dual-chamber or multi-chamber product composition, where the composition according to the present invention is in one chamber, and water or an aqueous composition is in the other chamber(s). Consumers may mix the composition in one chamber with water or the aqueous composition in the other chamber to obtain a microemulsion.

[0104] The term “microemulsion” can be defined in two ways, namely, in a broader and a narrower sense. In other words, there is one case (“microemulsion in the narrow sense”) in which the microemulsion refers to a single thermodynamically stable isotropic liquid phase containing a ternary system having three ingredients, namely an oily component, an aqueous component, and a surfactant, and the other case (“microemulsion in the broad sense”) in which, among typical thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems, the microemulsion further includes those such emulsions exhibiting transparent or translucent appearances due to their smaller particle sizes (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48–53). The term “microemulsion” as used here refers to a “microemulsion in the broad sense.”

[0105] Advantageously, in the microemulsion formed with the composition according to the present invention, the droplets have an average number size of 120 nm or less, preferably from 20 nm to 80 nm, more preferably from 20 nm to 50 nm.

[0106] The average volume size of the droplets can be determined using the known method of dynamic light scattering (DLS). A suitable instrument for this determination is the Malvern Zetasizer Nano ZS particle size analyzer, equipped with a standard laser with a power of 4 mW and a wavelength of 633 nm. This device is also equipped with a correlator (25 ns to 8000 s, 4000 channels max.).

[0107] The microemulsion obtained by the anhydrous composition with water or an aqueous composition can be used to care for and / or make up keratinous materials.

[0108] Thus, according to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising:

[0109] i) mixing the anhydrous composition according to the present invention with water or an aqueous composition to form a microemulsion; and

[0110] ii) the application of the microemulsion on keratinous materials.

[0111] The aqueous composition may comprise 40% or more by weight of water, for example, 45% to 99.9% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES

[0112] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0113] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0114] [Table 1]

[0115] [Tables 1] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate SUNSOFT Q-8H-C TAIYO KAGAKU Polyglyceryl-10 laurate DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB Polyglyceryl-4 caprate TEGOSOFT PC 41 MB EVONIK GOLDSCHMID T Polyglyceryl-2 stéarate NIKKOL DGMS NIKKO Caprylyl / capryl glucoside ORAMIXCG 110L SEPPIC PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30 NIKKOL SG-DTD630 NIPPON SURFACTANT INDUSTRIES Disodium stearoyl glutamate AMISOFT HS 21P AJINOMOTO Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate ELDEW SL-205 AJINOMOTO C15-19alkane EMOGREEN L19 SEPPIC Caprylic / capric triglycéride DUB MCT 7030 / MB STEARINERIE DUBOIS Butyrospermum parkii (shea ) butter LIPEX 204 FFL AARHUSKARLSHAMN Ferulic acid ORYZA FERULIX ORYZA OIL & FAT CHE MICAL

[0116] Exemples inventifs 1-3 et exemples comparatifs 1-8

[0117] The compositions of inventive examples (El.) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC) 1-8 were prepared according to the quantities of components given in Table 2. The quantity of each component is given as a % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0118] [Table 2]

[0119] [Tables2] Components El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EC . 1 EC .2 EC .3 EC .4 EC .5 EC .6 EC .7 EC. 8 Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 Caprylyl / capryl glucoside 4.1 PPG-6 decyltetraseceth-30 4.1 Polyglyceryl-10 laurate 4.1 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate 4.1 Polyglyceryl-2 stearate 4.1 Disodium stearoyl glutamate Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.1 0.5 C15-19 alkane 4.1 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 4.1 Butyros permum parkii (shea) butter 4.1 Ferulic acid 7.3 Dipropylene glycol QS100 Glycerin 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 12.3 Propanediol 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7 24.7

[0120]

[0121]

[0122]

[0123]

[0124]

[0125]

[0126]

[0127]

[0128]

[0129]

[0130] The compositions of inventive examples 1-3 are compositions of the present invention. The compositions of comparative examples 1-3 do not include at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at a temperature of 25 °C selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one of their combinations. The compositions of comparative examples 4 to 6 do not include at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, aliphatic polycarboxylic acid esters and aliphatic alcohols comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one of their combinations. The composition of comparative example 7 does not include oil. The composition of comparative example 8 includes only 0.5% by weight of an oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation procedure: The above compositions were prepared as follows (taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1): 1. Introduction of polyols and cosmetic active ingredients (where applicable) with stirring at 200 rpm then heating to 85 °C to obtain a clear liquid; 2. Cooling to 60 °C, to obtain a transparent to translucent viscous liquid; 3. Introduction of non-ionic surfactant (if applicable) and oil (if applicable), with stirring at 650 rpm until uniform, then cooling to 30 °C to obtain the composition. Assessment : 1. Particle size Each composition prepared in inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-8 was mixed with water by gentle mixing, and then the droplet size in the resulting mixtures was determined by Brookhaven DLS with a diffusion angle (°) of 90 and a count rate of 355.1 kcps. The following criterion was used to evaluate stability. If the particle size (volume mean diameter) is 120 nm or more, then no microemulsion is formed. If the particle size (volume average diameter) is greater than 10 nm and less than 120 nm, then a microemulsion is formed.

[0131] Table 3 indicates whether a microemulsion has formed or not.

[0132] [Table 3]

[0133] [Tables3] ELI Property El. 2 EL3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 EC. 5 EC. 6 EC. 7 EC. 8 Microemulsion Yes Yes Yes No No No No No No No No

[0134] It can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention can form a microemulsion when mixed with water, whereas the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 8 cannot form a microemulsion when mixed with water. 2. Sensation

[0135] 4 skin experts evaluated the sticky sensation of inventive examples 1-3 and of Comparative example 8 was used in a blind trial. To assess stickiness, experts touched the skin after applying the test composition and noted the degree of stickiness on the skin with a score of "1-5" according to the following standard:

[0136] 1: means non-sticky,

[0137] 2: means slightly sticky,

[0138] 3: means moderately sticky;

[0139] 4: moderately to very sticky

[0140] 5: means very sticky.

[0141] The scores given by 4 experts were averaged and the results are presented in Table 4.

[0142] [Table 4]

[0143] [Tables4] Score (sticky sensation) El. 1 EL 2 EL 3 EC. 8 Average 1.5 2 2 4.5

[0144] It can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention present much better results in terms of stickiness than the composition of comparative example 8.

Claims

Demands

1. An anhydrous skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 11-15 at 25 °C selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, and one combination thereof; b) more than 0.5% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, aliphatic polycarboxylic acid esters and aliphatic alcohols comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and one combination thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one C2-C6 polyol.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, preferably the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from mono-, di- and tri-esters of glycerin and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid including 8 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, still more preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is polyglyceryl-6 caprylate.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises at least one alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ether, preferably the alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ether is selected from the alkyl (Ci6-C24) polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) ethers, more preferably selected from PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth-20, and one of their combinations.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises at least one alkyl polyglycoside, preferably the alkyl polyglycoside is selected from those of formula (I): RO-Gx (I) in which - R is a C6-Ci2 alkyl group, - G is a fraction derived from a reducing saccharide containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a glucose motif, and - x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglycoside from 1 to 10, preferably in formula (I): - R is a C8-Ci0 alkyl group, - G is selected from the motifs galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl and galactosyl, - x' is from 1.4 to 3.

5. Composition according to claim 4, wherein the alkyl polyglycoside is selected from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside and one of their combinations.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises at least one N-acyl amino acid ester, preferably the N-acyl amino acid ester is selected from those of formula (II): R1(CO)N(R2)CH(R3)(CH2)n(CO)OR4(II) in which: - n is an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2, - Ri represents a linear or branched C5-C2i alkyl or alkenyl, - R2 represents a Cr c3 linear or branched hydrogen or alkyl, - R3 represents a C3-C4 linear or branched hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, or alkyl, - R4 represents a Ci-Cio linear or branched alkyl or a C2-Ci0 linear or branched alkenyl, or a sterol residue.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition comprises at least one aliphatic polycarboxylic acid and aliphatic alcohol ester comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably the aliphatic polycarboxylic acid and aliphatic alcohol ester comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is selected from C4-C22 aliphatic dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C2-C6 aliphatic mono- or dihydroxy alcohol esters, more preferably selected from diethyl sebacate; sebacate diisopropyl; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the oil is present in an amount from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 2% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyglyceryl caprylate with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, alkyl (Ci6-C24) polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) ethers, C8-Cio alkyl polyglucosides, and one of their combinations; b) 3% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one oil selected from N-acyl amino acid esters, C4-C22 aliphatic dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C2-C6 aliphatic mono- or dihydroxy alcohols, and one of their combinations, and c) 80% by weight to 94% by weight of at least one C2-C6 polyol selected from glycerin, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, and one of their combinations.

10. Non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: i) mixing the anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 and water or an aqueous composition to form a microemulsion; and ii) applying the microemulsion to the keratinous materials.