makeup composition of keratinous materials
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024001548
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-27
- Filing Date
- 2024-02-16
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-02-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions face challenges in achieving a stable formulation that simultaneously provides long-lasting makeup effects, desirable freshness, and coverage while maintaining stability over a wide temperature range.
A composition comprising at least one MQ resin, at least 1% by weight of an organic lipophilic gelling agent, and at least one pigment coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, which is applied to keratinous materials to enhance longevity, freshness, and coverage.
The composition achieves a long-lasting makeup effect with desirable freshness and coverage, remaining stable over a long period and across varying temperatures.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: makeup composition of keratinous materials Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. Preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for making up keratinous materials. The present invention relates to a process for making up keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The skin is not a smooth surface of uniform color, and has reliefs or at least micro-reliefs such as pores, wrinkles, fine lines, spots, scars and dry areas, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. In addition, the complexion is not always satisfactory, for example, dull in appearance.
[0003] Cosmetic compositions, for example foundations, are commonly used to give the skin an aesthetic color, and also to enhance the beauty of uneven skin, by making it possible to hide marks and dyschromias, to reduce the visibility of raised imperfections, such as pores and wrinkles, and to conceal spots and acne marks.
[0004] With the development of consumers' demands for color and high-quality cosmetics, functions including long-lasting, freshness, and coverage makeup effects are becoming increasingly important. However, for current cosmetic products, there are challenges in simultaneously achieving a long-lasting makeup effect and desirable freshness and coverage effects in a stable formulation. In other words, it is difficult to obtain a stable formulation that can simultaneously achieve a long-lasting makeup effect and desirable freshness and coverage effects.
[0005] Therefore, there is a need for a composition, for example, in the form of a foundation, which can simultaneously provide a long-lasting makeup effect and desirable freshness and coverage effects and is stable over a long period and a wide temperature range for storage and use. Summary of the Invention
[0006] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.
[0007] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for making up keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one MQ resin; b. at least 1% by weight of at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent, for relative to the total weight of the composition; and c. at least one pigment coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
[0008] The composition according to the present invention can simultaneously provide a long-lasting makeup effect and desirable freshness and coverage effects, and is stable over a long period and a wide temperature range for storage and use.
[0009] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for making up keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising:
[0010] a) applying the composition according to the first aspect to keratinous materials.
[0011] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0012] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from... to...".
[0013] The articles "a" and "an", as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature, unless such a limitation is specifically stated. In addition, the expression "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0014] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "consisting essentially of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting essentially of", any additional composition, material and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and novel characteristics are excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and novel characteristics may be included in the embodiment.
[0015] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which may be modified depending on the desired performance obtained as required. The term "about" denoting a certain value is intended to denote a range within ± 5% of the value, for example: within ± 3%, ± 2%, ± 1% and ± 0.5% of the value.
[0016] As used herein, the term "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is included all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, keratinous material(s) means skin, especially of the face. MQ Resin
[0017] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one MQ resin.
[0018] The term "resin" is intended to denote a compound having a three-dimensional structure. The letter "M" represents the monofunctional unit of formula R'R^SiOi^ , the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit, R1, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and the letter "Q" denotes a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the remainder of the polymer.
[0019] Preferably, the MQ resin corresponds to formula (I) below:
[0020] [(R*)3SiO1 / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (I)
[0021] wherein x and y, independently of each other, range from 20 to 200, preferably from 30 to 150, and more preferably from 35 to 80, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges; and R1 represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably an alkyl containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably a methyl.
[0022] Non-limiting examples of acceptable MQ resins are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,330,747. Preferably, the MQ resin has an M:Q ratio ranging from 0.5 to 0.8, preferably from 0.6 to 0.7.
[0023] More preferably, the MQ resins in accordance with the present invention are chosen from trimethylsiloxysilicate, which can be represented by the following formula (Ia):
[0024] [(CH3)3SiO1 / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (la)
[0025] wherein x and y, independently of each other, range from 20 to 200, preferably from 30 to 150, and more preferably from 35 to 80, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0026] Trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is available from Wacker, General Electric and Dow Corning, is an example of a commercially available MQ resin. For example, trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) is commercially available from General Electric under the trade name SR 1000 and from Wacker under the trade name BELSIL® TMS 803. Other examples include trimethylsiloxysilicate resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J by Shin-Etsu or DC 749 and DC 593 by Dow Corning. However, according to the present invention, TMS is preferably used as a 100% active ingredient, i.e., not in a solvent.
[0027] The MQ resin may also be phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, notably sold under the name Silshine 151 by the company General Electric. The preparation of these resins is described in particular in US patent No. 5,817,302.
[0028] Advantageously, the MQ resin is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 6% by weight to 20% by weight, and most preferably from 7% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Organic lipophilic gelling agent
[0029] The composition according to the present invention comprises an amount of at least 1% by weight of at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] According to the present invention, the organic lipophilic gelling agent may be liposoluble or lipodispersible.
[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic" herein describes substances having a solubility of at least 1 g / L, preferably at least 10 g / L, and more preferably at least 100 g / L, in an oil at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, or 105 Pa).
[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "lipophilic gelling agent" designates a compound which is capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the present invention. The gelling agent is lipophilic and may therefore be present in the oily phase of the composition.
[0033] The organic lipophilic gelling agent is preferably chosen from fatty acid polysaccharide esters, semi-crystalline polymers, polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
[0034] Preferably, the organic lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from fatty acid polysaccharide esters.
[0035] The polysaccharides in the fatty acid polysaccharide ester include, but are not limited to,
[0036]
[0037] however, be limited to dextrin and inulin. Preferably, the fatty acid polysaccharide esters are dextrin esters. More preferably, the fatty acid polysaccharide ester is selected from dextrin fatty acid esters, the fatty acids of which include, but are not limited to, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C3-C30 fatty acids, preferably C10-C24 fatty acids, and more preferably C12-C20 fatty acids. More preferably, the dextrin fatty acid ester corresponds to formula (II):
[0038]
[0039]
[0040]
[0041]
[0042] in which: • Rb R2 and R3, independently of each other, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl (R-CO-) in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 30, preferably from 8 to 22, more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said Rb R2 or R3 is other than hydrogen, n is between 3 and 150, preferably between 10 and 100 and more preferably between 15 and 40. Preferably, -ORi, -OR2 and / or -OR3 may be chosen from ca-prylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoarachic, decenoic, dodecenoic, te-tradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, eico-senoic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic and arachidonic acids, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, and mixtures thereof. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, notably under the name Rheopearl from the company Chiba Flour Milling. More preferably, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl® TL, Rheopearl®KL and Rheopearl® KL2 - OR by the company Chiba Flour Milling, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the organic lipophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1.2% by weight to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com- position.
[0043] Isopropyl titanium triisostearate coated pigment
[0044] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one pigment coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
[0045] According to the present invention, two or more isopropyl titanium triisostearate coated pigments may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of isopropyl titanium triisostearate coated pigment or a combination of different types of isopropyl titanium triisostearate coated pigments may be used.
[0046] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition.
[0047] Preferably, the pigments used in the present invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0048] The term "mineral pigment" means any inorganic pigment. Preferably, the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention are selected from metal oxides, such as zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, titanium oxides as well as zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, as well as manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for example aluminum powders or copper powders, or any combination thereof. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3 O5, Ti2O3, TiO2, ZrO2 in the form of a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2 or ZnS. In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more preferably iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide.
[0049] The average particle size of the coated pigment is generally 100 nm or more. The average particle size of the coated pigment according to the present invention may range from 100 nm to 25 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 qm. For the purposes of the present invention, the D50 size, or volume average size, corresponds to the particle size defined such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size greater than D50. The volume average size can be assessed by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser particle size analyzer, said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium, for example octyldodecyl neopentanoate.
[0050] The pigments may also be nacres and / or particles with metallic reflections. The term "nacres" should be understood as designating iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a color effect by optical interference.
[0051] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyeing materials are superimposed.
[0052] The pigments of the present invention are coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, i.e. the surface of the pigments is treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
[0053] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature which are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used. The isopropyl titanium triisostearate surfactant may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the surface of the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
[0054] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
[0055] The surface treatment with isopropyl titanium triisostearate gives the pigments a hydrophobic character. Therefore, the isopropyl titanium triisostearate coated pigment of the present invention has a hydrophobic and lipophilic nature. Accordingly, the isopropyl titanium triisostearate coated pigment can be dispersed and included in the oil phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0056] More preferably, the pigment coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate is chosen from titanium dioxide coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, iron oxide coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, and a mixture thereof. According to the present invention, the titanium dioxide coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate can be sold, for example, under the reference TIO2 CR-50 12 by the company KOBO, and the iron oxide coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate can be sold, for example, under the reference BBO-HP-I2 by the company KOBO.
[0057] Advantageously, the pigment coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 4% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic silica
[0058] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic silica.
[0059] The expression "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean, in the context of the present invention, both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles coated with hydrophobic silica.
[0060] In one case, the hydrophobic silicas which can be used in the composition of the invention are amorphous and of sublimed origin. They are preferably provided in powder form.
[0061] Amorphous hydrophobic silicas of sublimed origin are obtained from hydrophilic silicas. The latter are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in a continuous flame at 1000 °C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then made hydrophobic by treatment with silanes, alkoxysilanes or halogenated silazanes. Hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas, among other things, by a lower density of silanol and by a smaller adsorption of water vapor.
[0062] In this case, the hydrophobic silica is preferably chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of 50 to 500 m2 / g and a number-average particle size ranging from 3 to 50 nm. These are more particularly the hydrophobic silicas described in Table 1 below, and their mixtures.
[0063] [Tables 1] Trade name Aerosil R202 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R805 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R812 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R972 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R974 (Evonik Degussa) BET surface (m2 / g) 90 + 20 150 + 25 260 + 30 110 + 20 170 + 20 Average particle size (nm) 14 12 7 16 12
[0064] In this case, the hydrophobic silica used in the composition of the invention may also consist of a particle entirely or partially covered with silica, in particular an inorganic particle entirely or partially covered with hydrophobic silica, such as pigments and metal oxides covered with hydrophobic silica.
[0065] Preferably, as hydrophobic silica, a hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with a dimethylsiloxane, such as that sold under the name Aerosil R972 (INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) by Evonik Degussa, is used.
[0066] In another case, the hydrophobic silica which can be used in the composition of the invention is of the type hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a surface specific per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g and a size, expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0.5], also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm.
[0067] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0068] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0069] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and more preferably from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 1500 qm, preferably from 1 to 1000 pm, more preferably from 1 to 100 pm, more preferably from 1 to 30 pm, even more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, still more preferably from 5 to 20 pm and most preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0070] In one case, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, more preferably from 5 to 20 pm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0071] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered. The sizes of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvem. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”) Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0072] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5], also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 5 to 20 pm and preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0073] The aerogel silica particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a compacted density (p) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3 and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0074] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as tamped density, can be assessed according to the following protocol:
[0075] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the cylinder is then placed on the Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 device; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 tamping movements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of tamped powder is then measured on the test piece. The tamped density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and w in g).
[0076] In one case, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and more preferably from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0077] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SW xp where p is the compacted density, expressed in g / cm3, and SW is the specific surface area per unit weight, expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0078] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from 5 to 18 mL / g, preferably from 6 to 15 mL / g and more preferably from 8 to 12 mL / g.
[0079] The absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0080] It is measured according to the “wetting point” method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below:
[0081] A quantity w = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula and the addition of oil continues until conglomerates of oil and powder form. From this point on, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time, and then the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The weight (expressed in g) of the oil used is then noted.
[0082] The oil intake corresponds to the g / g ratio.
[0083] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
[0084] The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH with a silyl Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl.
[0085] With regard to the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to US 7,470,725.
[0086] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica used in the composition of the invention is hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl (trimethylsiloxylated silica).
[0087] Mention may be made, as hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, for example, of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 pm and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0088] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203.
[0089] More preferably, the hydrophobic silica used in the composition of the present invention is T aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 pm and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0090] According to the present invention, the hydrophobic silica is preferably selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g and a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, is more preferably selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, more preferably from 5 to 15 pm, and is even more preferably silica silylate.
[0091] Advantageously, the hydrophobic silica is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oil
[0092] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one oil.
[0093] The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, or 105 Pa).
[0094] The oil may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0095] According to the present invention, the oil is preferably chosen from ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] The ester oils according to the present invention may be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof, and preferably monoesters.
[0097] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0098] Preferably, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0099] Preferably, the ester oils are derived from one or more C12-C22 fatty alcohol(s) and one or more C2-C8 fatty acid(s).
[0100] More preferably, the ester oils are monoesters derived from a C12-C22 fatty alcohol and a C2-C8 fatty acid. Even more preferably, the ester oils are monoesters derived from a C12-C22 saturated fatty alcohol and a C2-C8 saturated fatty acid, at least one of the alcohols and the acid from which the ester oils are derived being branched.
[0101] Examples of ester oils include, but are not limited to, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, octanoate 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.
[0102] Among these, preferred examples include isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, diisostearyl adipate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, cetyl octanate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl octanate, propionate myristyl, isostearyl lactate and octyldodecyl lactate, and a more preferred example is cetyl ethylhexanoate.
[0103] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 alkanes, and preferably C8-C16 alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0104] Preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), and petrolatum or petroleum jelly; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0105] The expression “silicone oil” designates an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
[0106] Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as an alkyldimethicone, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.
[0107] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, more preferably liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS, dimethicone). The silicone oil may also be polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each of the alkyl and alkoxy groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. The silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which may be used in accordance with the present invention may be silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups.
[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone oil having a refractive index n of at least 1.40, and preferably at least 1.45. Preferably, the refractive index of the silicone oil is not greater than 2.00, preferably not greater than 1.80, and more preferably not greater than 1.65. The refractive index is measured at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, or 105 Pa).
[0109] The refractive index of a substance is the ratio of the speed of light in a vacuum and its velocity in the substance. It is also the ratio of the sine of the angle of incidence to the sine of the angle of refraction. In general, the refractive index of a given substance varies with the length of the refracted light and with the temperature.
[0110] The measurement of the refractive index is carried out by means of a sodium spectral lamp (X = 589 nm). A few drops of oil are placed on the measuring prism of a plunge refractometer with thermostated prism (Abbe precision refractometer or similar, connected to a thermostated bath).
[0111] Said silicone oil having a refractive index of at least 1.40 is preferably chosen from phenylated silicones.
[0112] The term “phenylated silicone” is intended to denote an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl.
[0113] As phenyl silicones with a refractive index of at least 1.40, mention may be made of phenyl silicones corresponding to any one of the following formulae (III)-(VIII).
[0114] In certain cases, the phenyl silicone corresponds to the formula (III): R (III) JRR K----Q RRR ° R ! ] R R—Si-----O R
[0115] in which the R's, independently of each other, represent a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one of the R's is a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula (III), the phenylated silicone comprises at least three phenyls, for example at least four, at least five or at least six phenyls.
[0116] In certain cases, the phenyl silicone corresponds to the formula (IV): RRR (IV) R--Si--O----Si-----O----Si-----R RRR
[0117] in which the R's, independently of each other, represent a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one of the R's is a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula (IV), said phenylated silicone comprises at least three phenyls, for example at least four or at least five phenyls.
[0118] In formula (IV), preferably the phenyl silicone corresponds to formula (IVa): Ph Ph Ph (IVa) M e ™™ Si---O --- Si — q—Si---Me Ph Me Ph
[0119] in which Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenylated silicone is notably manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid® (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid® can also be used.
[0120] In certain cases, the phenyl silicone corresponds to the formula (V): Even
[0121] in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents -CH2-CH(CH3)(Ph), where Ph represents phenyl.
[0122] In some cases, the phenyl silicone corresponds to the formula (VI):
[0123] in which Me represents methyl, -OR1 represents -O-SiMe3, y is between 1 and 1000 and z is between 1 and 1000, Ph represents phenyl.
[0124] In certain cases, the phenyl silicone corresponds to the following formula (VII):
[0125] in which • Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are radicals based on saturated or unsaturated C1-C30 hydrocarbons, linear, cyclic or branched, • m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, between 0 and 900, provided that the sum “m+n+q” is other than 0.
[0126] Preferably, the sum “m+n+q” is between 1 and 900 and more preferably between 1 and 800. More preferably, the sum “m+n+p+q” is between 1 and 100. Preferably, q is equal to 0.
[0127] Advantageously, the phenyl silicone corresponds to the following formula (VIII) (VIII) "5 — Yes — CH.. m
[0128] in which: • R1 to R6, independently of each other, are linear, cyclic or branched saturated or unsaturated C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, • m, n and p are, independently of each other, between 0 and 100, provided that the sum “n+m” is between 1 and 100.
[0129] Preferably, R 1 to R 6 , independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 30 and more preferably C 1 -C 12 hydrocarbon-based group and even more preferably a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group.
[0130] R 1 to R 6 are preferably identical, and more preferably are a methyl. Preferably, m, n and p are, independently of each other, between 0 and 50, more preferably between 0 and 20, even more preferably between 0 and 10, and most preferably between 0 and 5. Most preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 or 1, and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (VIII).
[0131] A phenyl silicone corresponding to formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25°C between 5 and 1500 mm2 / s (namely from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (namely 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used.
[0132] More preferably, the phenyl silicone of formula (VIII) according to the present invention is chosen from • diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicones such as KF-56A from Shin Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd and Dow Corning PH-1050 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning Corporation; and / or • phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), Silbione™ 70663V30 oil from Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, in particular Belsil®PDM1000 (1000 cSt), Belsil®PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil®PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25°C.
[0133] According to the present invention, the oil is preferably chosen from ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from ester oils of a C12-C22 fatty alcohol and of a C2-C8 fatty acid, polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyl silicones, C8-C16 isoalkanes, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably chosen from cetyl ethylhexanoate, dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0134] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 8% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicone elastomer
[0135] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one silicone elastomer.
[0136] Preferably, the composition of the present invention includes at least one silicone elastomer selected from dimethicone crosslinked silicone polymers. Suitable examples of commercially available silicone elastomers include, but are not limited to, dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, methyl trimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, and diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone (and) di-methicone / phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer.
[0137] Advantageously, the silicone elastomer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Emulsifier
[0138] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one emulsifier.
[0139] The emulsifier may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture. Preferably, the emulsifier is chosen from non-ionic surfactants.
[0140] Examples of the nonionic surfactants usable in the present invention may include polyethoxylated fatty alcohols or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (Laureth-9 to Laureth-50 as INCI names), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols and a fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. comprising oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glycerin and of a C8-C24 fatty acid and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono, di- and / or tristearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate; monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate;esters of a sugar and a C8-C24 fatty acid, such as sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, such as polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, in particular Polysorbate 80, such as the product marketed under the name "TWEEN 80" by Croda; ethers of sugars and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylene oxypropylene alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanol amides; alkyl amine oxides; polydimethylsiloxanes containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene, for example, PEG-10 dimethicone, cetyl-PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone; and mixtures thereof.
[0141] Examples of the nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention may also include polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters, for example, those selected from diesters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acids, such as saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C30 acids, which may have one or more substituents such as one or more hydroxyls. The fatty acids may be in the form of a polymer of fatty acids each of which has one or more hydroxyls. Such a polymer may be formed by the esterification of the carboxyl of a fatty acid having one or more hydroxyls and the hydroxyl of another fatty acid having one or more hydroxyls. Examples of such a polymer include polyhydroxystearate. Thus, as a polyoxyethylenated fatty acid ester, mention may be made of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.
[0142] Preferably, the emulsifier is chosen from esters of a sugar and a C8-C24 fatty acid, polydimethylsiloxanes containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0143] More preferably, the emulsifier is chosen from sorbitan isostearate, cetyl-PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0144] Advantageously, the emulsifier is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the foaming composition. Aqueous solvent
[0145] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous solvent.
[0146] The term "aqueous solvent" means any solvent which consists wholly or partially of water and which is miscible with water.
[0147] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition usable in the present invention is chosen from water, one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds are chosen from monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols, and mixtures thereof.
[0148] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyls. Examples of C2-C8 polyols that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and glycerin.
[0149] More preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition is chosen from water, monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols, and mixtures thereof.
[0150] More preferably still, the aqueous solvent of the composition is chosen from water, ethanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin (i.e. glycerol), and mixtures thereof.
[0151] Preferably, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
[0152] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water and at least one C2-C8 polyol chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
[0153] More preferably still, the composition according to the present invention comprises water, ethanol and at least one C2-C8 polyol chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
[0154] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises water, ethanol, glycerin, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, or mixtures thereof.
[0155] Advantageously, the aqueous solvent is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 45% to 70% by weight, and even more preferably from 45% by weight to 60% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0156] Advantageously, the water is present in an amount ranging from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 60% by weight and more preferably from 35% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0157] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetic products, and in particular makeup products.
[0158] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one of the following additives: pH correcting agents; biological extracts; perfumes; chelating agents; waxes; active ingredients, for example, sodium hyaluronate; stabilizers, for example, magnesium sulfate; preservatives, for example, phenoxyethanol; and cellulose thickeners, for example, cellulose gums.
[0159] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients. Composition
[0160] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an emulsion, for example, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, an oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsion. Preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.
[0161] The composition according to the present invention applies to all common cosmetic products, preferably makeup products, and in particular foundations.
[0162] The composition according to the present invention can simultaneously provide a long-lasting makeup effect and desirable freshness and coverage effects, and is stable over a long period and a wide temperature range for storage and use.
[0163] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil composition for making up keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 1% by weight to 25% by weight of at least one MQ resin; b. 1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent organic; and c. 1% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one pigment coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
[0164] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil composition for making up keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 1% by weight to 25% by weight of at least one trimethylsiloxy silicate; b. 1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one dextrin ester; and c. 1% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one triisostearate-coated pigment isopropyl titanium, the pigment of which is chosen from mineral pigments; preferably chosen from zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, titanium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red), chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powders, copper powders, and combinations thereof.
[0165] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil composition for making up keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 7% by weight to 15% by weight of trimethylsiloxysilicate; b. 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight of dextrin palmitate; c. 4% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one pigment coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, selected from titanium dioxide coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, iron oxide coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, and a mixture thereof; d. optionally, 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of silica silylate; e. optionally, 0.5 wt% to 3 wt% diphenylsiloxy phenyl tri- methicone; and f. optionally, 45% by weight to 70% by weight of at least one aqueous solvent selected from water, ethanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof. Method and use
[0166] The composition according to the present invention is used in a process for making up keratinous materials, such as the skin, by application to the keratinous materials.
[0167] It has been found that the composition according to the present invention can provide a long-lasting makeup effect and desirable freshness and coverage effects after application.
[0168] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, in particular using a finger, a palm, a cotton ball or a powder puff.
[0169] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for making up keratinous material, preferably skin, comprising applying the above composition to the keratinous materials.
[0170] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES
[0171] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers have been listed in Table 2.
[0172] [Tables2] INCI name Trade name Supplier DEXTRIN PALMITATE RHEOPEARL® KL2 - OR CHIBA FLOUR MILLING TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICAT E BELSIL® TMS 803 WACKER SILICA SILYLATE DOWSIL™ VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE DOW TITANIUM DIOXIDE (AND) ALUMINA (AND) ISOPROPYL TITANIUM TRIISOSTEARATE TIO2 CR-50 12 KOBO DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE KF-56A SHIN ETSU DIMETHICONE (AND) DL METHICONE / VINYL DL METHICONE CROSSPOLYMER X-25-7034H ® SHIN ETSU Comparative Examples 1-4 and Inventive Example 1
[0173] The compositions according to Comparative Examples (EC.) 1-4 and Inventive Example (Ex.) 1 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 3 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0174] [Tables3] Components Ex. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 Aqueous phase BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 GLYCERIN 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 WATER 40.8 40.8 40.8 40.8 40.8 ETHANOL 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Pigment Titanium dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Isopropyl titanium triisostearate 7.5 7.5 7.5 / / Titanium dioxide / / / / 7.5 Titanium dioxide (and) Disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) Aluminum hydroxide / / / 7.5 / Oil phase PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DL METHICONE 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 CETYL ETHYLHEXANOATE 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 DEXTRIN PALMITATE 2.0 / 2.0 2.0 2.0 DIMETHICONE (AND) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DL METHICONE CROSSPOLYMER 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 10.0 10.0 / 10.0 10.0 SILICA SILYLATE 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 DIMETHICONE QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 Preparation process
[0175] The compositions were prepared from a process comprising the steps following: 1. mixing all components of the aqueous phase and stirring the mixture at room temperature (25°C) to form a homogeneous premix 1; 2. mixing all components of the oil phase except dimethicone and dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, and stirring the mixture at a temperature of 90°C for 10 minutes to form premix 1'; 3. adding pigment and dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer into premix 1' and dispersing it at a temperature of 90°C to form premix 2'; 4. cooling the premix 2' to a temperature of 60°C, and adding the dimethicone into the premix 2' and stirring it to form a homogeneous premix 3'; 5. adding Premix 1 to Premix 3' at room temperature (25°C) to form Mix 1; and 6. Emulsification of Mix 1 for 5 minutes at a speed of 3000 rpm with a homogenizer to obtain the final W / O emulsion composition. Stability test
[0176] Each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was left for two weeks at room temperature and 45°C respectively, and the appearance of each composition was then visually observed. If there is no phase separation and demulsification of a composition at room temperature and 45°C respectively, it is considered stable; and if there is at least a partial oil phase separated from the aqueous phase and / or demulsification of a composition at room temperature or 45°C, it is considered unstable.
[0177] The stability of each composition has been summarized in Table 4.
[0178] [Tables4] Property Ex.l EC. 1 EC. 2 Stability Stable Unstable Stable Testing the coverage effect
[0179] For each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4, five panelists were asked to evaluate the coverage effect. Specifically, each panelist applied each composition to the face with the same daily quantity, then gave scores (1 to 5). The higher the score, the higher the coverage, and vice versa. For each composition, the final score was averaged and ranked according to the following criteria:
[0180] Coverage:
[0181] 4 < Scores < 5: high coverage;
[0182] 3 < Scores < 4: moderate coverage;
[0183] 2 < Scores < 3: low coverage;
[0184] 1 < Scores < 2: almost no coverage.
[0185] The coverage effect evaluation scores of each composition were summarized in Table 5.
[0186] [Tables5] Property Ex.l EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Coverage 4.0 2.9 4.0 3.6 2.3 Testing the lasting effect of makeup
[0187] The holding effect of the makeup was evaluated by transfer test, and the test was carried out by the process comprising the following steps: a) Weight loss (0.5 h)
[0188] 1. For each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2, a transparent plastic plate with a thickness of 75 qm was fixed on the bottom of a weight of 2 kg; 2. For each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2, a foundation film with a thickness of 150 qm was prepared using BYK (Byko Drive XL) and a mold (Elcometer, 3540) on a contrast card (Erichsen, Type 24 / 5), and allowed to stand at 32°C for 0.5 hours, then weighed to obtain the Mw(0), the 2 kg weight with the plastic plate was placed on the foundation film and allowed to stand for 10 seconds, during which the plastic plate directly contacted the foundation film; the contrast card with untransferred composition was weighed to obtain Mw(0.5 h); 3. Weight loss (0.5 h) was obtained by the equation: Weight loss (0.5 h) = Mw(0)- Mw(0.5 h). a') Weight loss (6 h)
[0189] 1') For each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2, a transparent plastic plate with a thickness of 75 qm was fixed on the bottom of a weight of 2 kg;
[0190] 2') For each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2, a 150 μm thick foundation film was prepared using BYK (Byko Drive XL) and a mold (Elcometer, 3540) on a contrast card (Erichsen, Type 24 / 5), and allowed to stand at 32 °C for 6 h, then weighed for to obtain Mw(0), the 2 kg weight with the plastic plate was placed on the foundation film and left to stand for 10 seconds, during which the plastic plate came into direct contact with the foundation film; the contrast card with untransferred composition was weighed to obtain Mw(6 h);
[0191] 3') The weight loss (6 h) was obtained by the equation: weight loss (6 h) = Mw(0)- Mw(6 h).
[0192] The makeup holding effect was evaluated by the weight loss of the foundation film after placement for half an hour and six hours respectively. The less weight the foundation composition loses, the better the makeup holding effect, and vice versa. When the weight loss (0.5 h) < 0.1 g or the weight loss (6 h) < 0.05 g, the composition is considered to have a long-lasting makeup effect.
[0193] The weight loss (0.5 h) and weight loss (6 h) for evaluating the makeup holding effect of each composition were summarized in Table 6.
[0194] [Tableauxô] Properties Ex.l EC. 1 EC. 2 Weight loss (0.5 h) / g 0.1 0.09 0.15 Weight loss (6 h) / g 0.04 0.05 0.11 Testing the cooling effect
[0195] Five panelists were asked to evaluate the freshness effect. Specifically, each panelist applied the composition of Inventive Example 1 to the face with the same daily amount, then gave scores (1 to 5). The higher the score, the better the freshness effect, and vice versa. For the composition of Inventive Example 1, the final score was averaged and ranked according to the following criteria:
[0196] Freshness:
[0197] 4 < Scores < 5: watery freshness;
[0198] 3 < Scores <4: a little freshness;
[0199] 2 < Scores <3: a little oily;
[0200] 1 < Scores <2: oily.
[0201] The freshness score of the composition of Inventive Example 1 is 4.0.
[0202] It can be seen that only the composition of Inventive Example 1, comprising an MQ resin, at least 1% by weight of an organic lipophilic gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition, and an isopropyl titanium triisostearate-coated pigment, can simultaneously achieve a long-lasting makeup effect and desirable freshness and coverage effects, and is furthermore stable over a long period, for example, two weeks, and a wide temperature range, for example, tem- room temperature and 45°C.
[0203] In this way, the composition according to the present invention can simultaneously provide a long-lasting makeup effect and desirable freshness and coverage effects, and is stable over a long period and a wide temperature range for storage and use.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably for makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: (a) at least one resin MQ which is a polymer compound whose structure is three-dimensional and in which: - M represents the monofunctional unit of formula R1R2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit, R1, R2, and R3, independently of each other, representing a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and - Q denotes a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer; (b) at least 1% by weight of at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (c) at least one pigment coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the MQ resin corresponds to the formula (I) below [(R*)3SiO1 / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y(I) in which x and y, independently of each other, are between 20 and 200, preferably between 30 and 150, and more preferably between 35 and 80, and R1 represents a hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably an alkyl containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably a methyl.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the MQ resin is chosen from trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is represented by the following formula (la): [(CH3)3SiO1 / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (la) in which x and y, independently of each other, are between 20 and 200, preferably between 30 and 150, and more preferably between 35 and 80.
4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the organic lipophilic gelling agent is selected from dextrin esters and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate and mixtures thereof; and is preferably dextrin palmitate.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment in the isopropyl titanium triisostearate coated pigment is selected from mineral pigments; preferably selected from zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, titanium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red), chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powders, copper powders and combinations thereof; and more preferably selected from iron oxides, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the organic lipophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1.2% by weight to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the isopropyl titanium triisostearate coated pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 4% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising at least one hydrophobic silica, which is preferably selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g and a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, preferably selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, and more preferably from 5 to 15 pm; and is even more preferably silica silylate; wherein the hydrophobic silica is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition, preferably in the form of an emulsion, more preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably for making up keratinous materials, comprising with respect to total weight of the composition: (a) 7% by weight to 15% by weight of trimethylsiloxy silicate; (b) 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight of dextrin palmitate; (c) 4% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one pigment coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, chosen from titanium dioxide coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, iron oxide coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate, and mixtures thereof; d) optionally, 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of silica silylate; e) optionally, 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and f) optionally, 45% by weight to 70% by weight of at least one aqueous solvent chosen from water, ethanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
10. Method for making up keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising: the application of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to keratinous materials.