Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials
The combination of polydatin derivatives and Eperua falcata extract in cosmetic compositions addresses photostability and sustainability issues, ensuring durability and environmental friendliness.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024001515
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-01-05
- Filing Date
- 2024-02-16
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-13
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-02-16
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic compositions containing polydatin and its derivatives face challenges with photostability and environmental sustainability, as they are prone to isomerization and cyclization under sunlight, and there is a need for more sustainable, durable formulations using renewable raw materials.
A composition comprising polydatin derivatives and an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably from its bark, along with hydrotropes and bio-based UV filters, enhances photostability and sustainability.
The composition effectively improves the photostability of polydatin derivatives and maintains their efficacy under sunlight exposure, while using environmentally friendly ingredients.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and also relates to a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Stilbenoids are hydroxylated derivatives of stilbene, and most stilbenoids are produced from plants. Stilbenoids, for example, polydatin and / or its derivatives, possess potential biological activities primarily through the modulation of key signaling pathways involved in inflammation, oxidative stress, and apoptosis.
[0003] As such, polydatin and / or its derivatives are promising ingredients for whitening, anti-inflammation, and antioxidant properties, and can therefore be included in cosmetic products as active ingredients. However, it is difficult for such products to be light-stable. As artisans know, when exposed to sunlight, transconformations can isomerize into cisconformations and can further cyclize into di- or tri-hydroxyphenanthrene.
[0004] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0005] It is therefore preferable to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0007] Therefore, there is a need for a composition comprising polydatin and / or its derivatives, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which can offer good photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives and is preferably more durable. Summary of the invention
[0008] The inventors discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.
[0009] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a. polydatene and / or its derivatives, and b. an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark.
[0010] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials.
[0011] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, to improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives included in the above composition.
[0012] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0013] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0014] The articles “a” and “an,” as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and the claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more.”
[0015] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or even any features other than the specifically cited features are present (such as "essentially consisting of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "essentially consisting of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and innovative features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative features may be included in the method of implementation.
[0016] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and other substances used in the description and claims shall be understood as being modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that may be modified according to the desired performance obtained as required. The term "approximately" referring to a certain value is intended to denote a range to within ±5% of the value, for example: ±3%, ±2%, ±1%, and ±0.5% of the value.
[0017] The expression "keratinous material(s)", as used herein, refers to skin, nails or mucous membranes. Preferably, keratinous material(s) refers to skin. Polydatene and / or its derivatives
[0018] The composition according to the present invention comprises polydaten and / or its derivatives.
[0019] As a family, stilbenoids are interesting antioxidants for use in personal or consumer products because of their high efficiency in quenching reactive oxygen species. All stilbenoids contain the core structure of stilbene, consisting of two aromatic rings linked by a central alkene.
[0020] Such stilbenoids may include piceatannol from the roots of Norway spruce, pinosylvin from trees of the pine family, pterostilbene from almonds, pines, and vaccinium berries, resveratrol from grapes, astringin from the bark of Norway spruce, and polydatin (or piceide), called stilbenoid glucosides, from fruit juices, particularly grape juice, in which polydatin (or piceide) is resveratrol-3-O-beta-glucoside, and resveratrol can be produced from polydatin (or piceide) via Aspergillus oryzae. Notably, polydatin is found in plant and fruit juices at a much higher concentration than other stilbenoids.
[0021] Stilbenoids are also known for their photo-instability. When exposed to sunlight or other radiation, stilbenoids, which are active in the / trans-conformations, can photoisomerize into oe-conformations, and can further cyclize into dihydroxyphenantrene or trihydroxyphenantrene.
[0022] Polydatine is a stilbenoid found in Polygonum cuspidatum, commonly known as Japanese knotweed or Asian knotweed. Preferably, polydatine is extracted from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum and can also be found in a variety of other sources, such as grapes, peanuts, hop cones, red wines, hop pellets, and other products. containing cocoa, chocolate products and many daily diets.
[0023] Polydatin can be obtained in raw material reagents comprising an amount ranging from less than 50% up to 99% or more. It is possible to obtain certain isolates and extracts containing polydatin that is pure or essentially pure.
[0024] Preferably, polydatin and / or its derivatives according to the present invention are selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, polydatin and / or its derivatives according to the present invention are selected from polydatin, resveratrol, and a mixture thereof. Resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin, and trans-polydatin have the following structures, respectively: Resmaïro^ Pterostilbene P inosyMne datine.
[0025] More preferably, polydatin and / or its derivatives is polydatin extracted from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum, and in particular that sold under the name Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract by the company Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients.
[0026] Advantageously, polydatin and / or its derivatives are present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Extract from Eperua falcata
[0027] The composition according to the present invention comprises an extract of Eperua falcata.
[0028] Eperua falcata (Aublet) is a tropical tree that grows to a height of 10 to 20 meters and is found in the rainforests of Guyana, Brazil, Suriname and From Venezuela. Botanically, it belongs to the Caesalpiniaceae family and is also known as wapa, sabre wood, bioudou, pangapanga, tabaca, walaba, or assacu. Synonyms include Dimorpha falcata (JB Aublet) JE Smith and Panzera falcata (JB Aublet) CL Wildenow. Eperua falcata has very hard, reddish-brown wood and bears distinctively shaped, dark brown fruit.
[0029] The extracts, which are preferably obtained from its bark and root, preferably its bark, contain a number of active ingredients, preferably polyphenols.
[0030] From a phytochemical point of view, an extract of Eperua falcata bark contains dihydroflavonols and catechin tannins, rich in the following astilbin and en-geletin: As^lbine Engélétœ
[0031] Chemical formula: C2iH22Oii Chemical formula: C2iH22Oi0
[0032] Molar mass: 450.39 g / mol Molar mass: 434.397 g / mol.
[0033] The extracts can be prepared by any common process, for example by aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous / alcoholic extraction of plants or parts thereof, for example their bark, root, leaf, and / or fruit. Suitable extraction processes are any of the common extraction processes.
[0034] As an extract of Eperua falcata which may be suitable for use in the present invention, one may use, for example, an extract of Eperua falcata root sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Eperuline™; an extract of Eperua falcata bark sold by Cognis under the name Eperuline®; and an extract of Eperua falcata bark sold by BASF Beauty Care Solution under the name Eperuline PW LS 9627.
[0035] Preferably, the Eperua falcata extract is derived from the Eperua falcata plant or from parts thereof which are preferably selected from the bark, root, leaf, fruit and combinations thereof, and more preferably the bark and / or root.
[0036] More preferably, the Eperua falcata extract is an extract of Eperua falcata bark, and most preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark sold by BASF Beauty Care Solution under the name Eperuline PW LS 9627.
[0037] Advantageously, the extract of Eperua falcata is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrotrope
[0038] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrotrope.
[0039] Preferably, the composition includes two or more hydrotropes. Preferably, the hydrotrope is present in an amount effective in increasing the transdermal penetration of polydatin and / or its derivatives.
[0040] Most hydrotropes have an aromatic structure with an ionic fraction, while some are linear alkyl chains, as listed below. Although hydrotropes closely resemble surfactants and can reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic motifs and relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles. Consequently, their hydrophobicity is insufficient to create well-organized self-associating structures, such as micelles, even at high concentrations.
[0041] Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulfonate, sodium butyl monoglycolsulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumene sulfonate, N,N-diethyl nicotinamide, IV-picolylnicotinamide, IV-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylureh, pyrogallol, IV-picolylacetamide 3,5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, benzoate of sodium, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N,IV-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide and isoniazid.
[0042] Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes refer to hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic compositions. Although hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic applications will be limited due to safety and tolerability restrictions. Hydrotropes suitable for use in cosmetics include, but are not limited to, vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA (sodium salt of pyrrolidone carbonic acid), sodium salicylate, urea, and hydroxyethyl urea. The suitability of hydrotropes for use in cosmetic compositions can be determined using tests known in the art for determining skin effects and human toxicity. Although these hydrotropes are given by way of example, it is understood that other hydrotropes compatible with applications Cosmetics can also be used. Preferably, vitamin B3 is chosen from the group consisting of niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, their esters or salts, or their combinations.
[0043] Preferably, the hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the hydrotrope is selected from niacinamide, caffeine, or one of their combinations. Even more preferably, the hydrotrope is a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.
[0044] Advantageously, the hydrotrope is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. UV filter
[0045] According to the present invention, the composition may include at least one UV filter.
[0046] With regard to the UV filter, mention can be made of organic and inor- UV filters Organic / mineral UV filters are used. In some cases, the organic UV filter is chosen from homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, octinoxate, and combinations thereof. In some cases, the inorganic / mineral UV filter is chosen from ZnO, TiO2, and combinations thereof.
[0047] Preferably, the UV filter is chosen from bio-based UV filters.
[0048] The expression "bio-based UV filter" refers to a UV filter that comes from natural sources renewable turrets.
[0049] According to the present invention, the bio-based UV filter can be selected from among benzylidene camphor derivatives. One or more benzylidene camphor derivatives can be used in the composition according to the present invention. Thus, a single benzylidene camphor derivative or a combination of different benzylidene camphor derivatives can be used.
[0050] Examples of camphor benzylidene derivatives include:
[0051] 3-benzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the brand name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex;
[0052] 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the brand name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck;
[0053] benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, for example, that sold under the brand name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex;
[0054] benzalconium camphor methosulfate, for example, that sold under the brand name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex;
[0055] terephthalylidene diamphrulfonic acid, for example, that sold under the brand name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex or by NOVEAL; and
[0056] polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, for example, that sold under the brand name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex.
[0057] According to the present invention, the composition may include at least one benzylidene camphor derivative selected from 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, benz-zalconium camphor methosulfate, terephthalylidene diamphrum sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor and their combinations.
[0058] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises terephthalylidene dicamphric sulfonic acid.
[0059] Advantageously, the UV filter is present in an amount of 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Naturally derived polymer
[0060] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polymer of natural origin.
[0061] With regard to polymers of natural origin, polysaccharides can be widely cited. Preferably, the polymer of natural origin is chosen from gums, for example, natural gums, for example acacia gum from Senegal, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, agar-agar, locust bean gum, carrageenan (lambda, iota kappa), gellan gum, guar gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, hydroxypropyl guar, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] Preferably, the naturally sourced polymer is xanthan gum.
[0063] Advantageously, the naturally occurring polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Conservative
[0064] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one preservative.
[0065] The preservative may be chosen from the group consisting of organic acids, parabens, formaldehyde donors, phenol derivatives, quaternary ammonium compounds, diols having five or more carbon atoms, isothiazolinones, and their combinations.
[0066] Preferably, the preservative is chosen from phenol derivatives, diols having five or more carbon atoms, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the preservative is chosen from mixtures of a phenol derivative and a diol having five or more carbon atoms.
[0067] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol.
[0068] Advantageously, the preservative is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous solvent
[0069] The composition of the present invention may include at least one aqueous solvent.
[0070] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C6 polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
[0071] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be cited include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
[0072] Preferably, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C2-C6 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.
[0073] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises both water and a C2-C6 polyol, preferably glycerol (i.e. glycerin).
[0074] Advantageously, the C2-C6 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0075] Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0076] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those classically used in cosmetic products.
[0077] The composition according to the present invention may include any of the following additives: pH correcting agents, perfumes, chelating agents and active ingredients.
[0078] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one active ingredient selected from flavonoids, flavoglycosides, and peptides. Representative examples These active ingredients include hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
[0079] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide-2 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
[0080] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients. Composition
[0081] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and preferably a skin care composition.
[0082] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising an extract of Eperua falcata, which can improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives included therein.
[0083] Preferably, the extract of Eperua falcata and polydatin and / or its derivatives are present in the composition in a weight ratio of 1:20 to 10:1, preferably 1:10 to 5:1, more preferably 1:5 to 2:1, and even more preferably 1:3 to 1:1. The photostabilizer according to the present invention, i.e. an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, is environmentally friendly and can effectively improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives in the composition comprising them.
[0084] Preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of polydatin and / or its derivatives, b. 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of an extract of Eperua falcata, et faculta tively c. 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one UV filter.
[0085] More preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, with respect to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight of polydatin and / or its derivatives, selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and mixtures thereof, b. 0.05% by weight to 8% by weight of an extract of Eperua falcata derived from the plant Eperua falcata or parts thereof, preferably selected from the bark, root, leaf, fruit and combinations thereof, and faculta- tively c. 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one camphor benzylidene derivative.
[0086] More preferably, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, with respect to the total weight of the composition, comprising: a. 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatene, b. 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight of an extract of Eperua falcata bark, and facul tatively c. 0.1 to 1% by weight of terephthalylidene diamphrulfonic acid. Process and use
[0087] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, such as skin, by being applied to the keratinous materials.
[0088] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, preferably using a finger or palm.
[0089] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials, and optionally the massage of the skin for 2 to 20 seconds.
[0090] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, to improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives included in the above composition.
[0091] Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one hydrotrope selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea and their combinations, more preferably at least one hydrotrope selected from niacinamide, caffeine and one of their combinations, and even more preferably a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.
[0092] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES
[0093] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0094] [Table 1]
[0095] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier NIACINAMIDE NIACINAMIDE PC (CODE 5016013) DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS CAFFEINE CAFFEINE POWDER BASF EPERUA FALCATA BARK EXTRACT EPERULINE PW LS 9627 BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT GUILIN LAYN NATURAL INGREDIENTS HESPERIDIN METHYL CHALCONE (and) DIPEPTIDE-2 (and) PALMITOYL TE-TRAPEPTIDE-7 EYELISS SEDERMA (CRODA) TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID MEXORYL SX NOVEAL Comparative Example 1 and Inventive Example 1
[0096] The compositions according to Comparative Example (CE) 1 and Inventive Example (IE) 1 comprising the ingredients indicated in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active material relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated as raw material (RM).
[0097] [Table 1]
[0098] [Tables2] Components Ex.l EC. 1 Phase A XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.3 0.3 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 GLYCERIN 7.5 7.5 WATER QS QS Phase B NIACINAMIDE 5.0 5.0 CAFFEINE 2.0 2.0 POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT EXTRACT 0.5 0.5 Phase C HESPERIDINE METHYL CHALCONE (and) DIPEPTIDE-2 (and) PALMITOYLE 3.0 MP 3.0 MP TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID 0.5 0.5 Phase D EPERUA FALCATA BARK EXTRACT 0.2 / Preparation process
[0099] The compositions were prepared using a process comprising the following steps: 1. Adding the materials from phase A into a container, and heating the resulting mixture to a temperature of 85 °C with stirring until complete dissolution; 2. Addition of the materials from phase B into the container at a temperature of 65 °C with stirring until complete dissolution; 3. Adding the materials from phase C into the container at a temperature of 35 °C with stirring until complete dissolution; 4. Addition of the materials from phase D into the container at a temperature of 35 °C until complete dissolution, in order to obtain the final composition. Test procedure
[0100] Each of the compositions according to Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was spread onto eight glass plates at a concentration of 2 mg / cm². For each composition, four of the eight glass plates were placed under xenon light, while the Four additional glass plates were placed in the absence of xenon light. Each glass plate was left for 20 minutes at a temperature of 40 °C. Then, each glass plate was separately immersed in 30 mL of methanol, and each of the respective methanol solutions was sonicated for 15 minutes to extract the polydatin. Each of the resulting methanol solutions was analyzed by HPLC (reverse phase) to quantify the residual amount of polydatin. The residual amounts of polydatin from the four glass plates placed under xenon light were averaged to obtain the polydatin (%) with Xenon light. The residual amount of polydatin from the four glass plates placed in the absence of xenon light was averaged to obtain the polydatin (%) without Xenon light. The photostability of polydatin for each composition was calculated using the following equation:
[0101] Photostability (%) = (polydatene (%) with Xe light) / (polydatene (%) without Xe light)
[0102] The composition according to Inventive Example 1 was more stable in light so that 73% of polydatin remained even after exposure to light.
[0103] The composition according to Comparative Example 1 was less stable in light so that the photostability of polydaten was less than 60%. Composition performance
[0104] [Table 3]
[0105] [Tables3] Properties Ex.l EC. 1 Photostability 73% Success 54% Failure
[0106] A photostability (%) of 60% or less is considered a failure of polydaten stabilization.
[0107] According to the data in Table 3, the extract of Eperua falcata according to the present invention can effectively improve the photostability of polydatin. In contrast, polydatin in a composition that does not contain a photostabilizer is not stable when exposed to light. Furthermore, the composition of Inventive Example 1 is durable.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a) polydatin and / or its derivatives, and b) an extract of Eperua falcata.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said polydatin and / or its derivatives are selected from polydatin, resveratrol, pterostilbene, pinosylvin and mixtures thereof, and are preferably selected from polydatin, resveratrol and one of their mixtures, and more preferably polydatin extracted from the root and / or rhizome of Polygonum cuspidatum.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the extract of Eperua falcata is derived from the plant Eperua falcata or from parts thereof which are preferably selected from the bark, root, leaf, fruit and combinations thereof, and the extract of Eperua falcata is preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrotrope selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, hydroxyethylurea and combinations thereof, and preferably selected from niacinamide, caffeine, or a combination thereof, and more preferably a combination of niacinamide and caffeine.
5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one UV filter; which is preferably selected from benzylidene camphor derivatives, more preferably selected from the group consisting of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, benzalconium camphor methosulfate, terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor and combinations thereof, and is even more preferably terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid; wherein the UV filter is preferably present in an amount of 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract of Eperua falcata is present in an amount going from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract of Eperua falcata and polydatin and / or its derivatives are present in a weight ratio of 1:20 to 10:1, preferably 1:10 to 5:1, more preferably 1:5 to 2:1, and even more preferably 1:3 to 1:
1.
8. Composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in relation to the total weight of the composition, comprising a) 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of polydatin, b) 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight of an extract of Eperua falcata bark, and optionally c) 0.1% to 1% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid.
9. Process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably skin, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 on keratinous materials.
10. Use of an extract of Eperua falcata, preferably an extract of Eperua falcata bark, to improve the photostability of polydatin and / or its derivatives included in the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.