Solid cosmetic composition

Abstract

Solid cosmetic composition comprising: - an oil-in-water emulsifier in a content by weight relative to the total weight, greater than or equal to 3%, and less than or equal to 20%, - a mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points in a total content by weight, greater than or equal to 15%, and less than or equal to 30%, - squalane in a content by weight, greater than or equal to 3%, and less than or equal to 15%, - oil in a content by weight, greater than or equal to 15%, and less than or equal to 35%, - exfoliating particles in a content by weight, greater than or equal to 4%, and less than or equal to 30%, and - an absorbent powder in a content by weight, greater than or equal to 4%, and less than or equal to 30%.

Description

Title of the invention: Solid cosmetic composition

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a solid cosmetic composition, a process for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention and a process for non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care treatment comprising the cold emulsion in contact with water of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0002] The purpose of exfoliating cosmetic compositions is to remove, by mechanical rubbing, dead cells from the superficial layers of the epidermis, in order to leave the skin smooth. This makes it possible to accelerate the cellular renewal of the skin and possibly to improve the penetration of cosmetic active ingredients into the epidermis.

[0003] The majority of exfoliating cosmetic compositions have a fluid, cream-like texture, more or less thick, to facilitate their application to the skin, and can be rinsed with water to eliminate the deposit that remains after application and massage on the skin.

[0004] Fluid or cream-form cosmetic products require packaging that can have a high environmental impact. There is therefore a need for an exfoliating cosmetic composition that can be stored in packaging with a low environmental impact.

[0005] There are also solid exfoliating products such as exfoliating solid soaps. These types of cosmetic products can be packaged in packaging with a low environmental impact but by sacrificing the creamy formula of exfoliating creams.

[0006] The creamy formula provides a sensory texture and helps to coat the exfoliating grains for gentle application on sensitive skin and exfoliation without damaging the skin barrier.

[0007] There is therefore a need for a cosmetic composition which allows for both packaging with a low environmental impact and a creamy texture when applied to the skin.

[0008] One of the objects of the present invention is to provide an exfoliating cosmetic composition meeting these two requirements.

[0009] The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising:

[0010] - an oil-in-water emulsifier in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 20%, for example less than or equal to 15%,

[0011] - a mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points in one total content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to at 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%,

[0012] - squalane in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 15%, for example less than or equal to 10%,

[0013] - oil in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 35%, for example less than or equal to 30%,

[0014] - exfoliating particles in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 20%, and

[0015] - an absorbent powder in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%.

[0016] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a solid galenic at room temperature. This makes it possible to reduce the environmental impact of the product, in particular the solid galenic of the composition according to the invention allows packaging in a recyclable and biodegradable cardboard case.

[0017] In addition, the lifespan of a cosmetic composition in solid galenic form is generally longer than its equivalent in fluid galenic form. The lifespan of the cosmetic product according to the invention is advantageously longer than that of fluid exfoliating cosmetic products.

[0018] In addition, a solid galenic allows for volume rationalization. Generally speaking, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention will take up less space than a fluid or creamy exfoliating cosmetic composition.

[0019] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention emulsifies cold upon contact with water, making it possible to obtain a thick and creamy cream with the same sensorialities as a liquid emulsion but from a solid galenic. This allows gentle application on sensitive skin and exfoliation without altering the skin barrier.

[0020] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more of the characteristics below, considered individually or according to all technically possible combinations:

[0021] - the oil-in-water emulsifier is of the polyglyceryl-4-oleate type; and / or

[0022] - squalane is a phytosqualane; and / or

[0023] - the wax mixture comprises at least one first wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C and less than or equal to 70°C and a second wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 74°C and less than or equal to 78°C, the first and second waxes being in equimass concentration; and / or

[0024] - the exfoliating particles have a median size greater than or equal to 10 pm, by example greater than or equal to 50 pm and less than or equal to 1000 pm, for example less than or equal to 500 pm; and / or

[0025] - the absorbent powder has a median size greater than or equal to 1 pm, for example greater than or equal to 5 pm and less than or equal to 50 pm, for example less than or equal to 20 pm and an oil absorption (g / g) greater than or equal to 2.3 and less than or equal to 2.7, for example substantially equal to 2.5; and / or

[0026] - the absorbent powder is composed of an equimass coupling of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose and / or silica; and / or

[0027] - the cosmetic composition further comprises a humectant, for example glycerin type, in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.5%, for example greater than or equal to 1%, and less than or equal to 7%, for example less than or equal to 5%; and / or

[0028] - the oil is of vegetable or mineral origin; and / or

[0029] - the cosmetic composition further comprises a cosmetic active ingredient, for example of salicyloyl phytosphingosine type with tocopheryl linoleate, in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.05%, for example greater than or equal to 0.1%, and less than or equal to 5%, for example less than or equal to 2%; and / or

[0030] - the cosmetic composition further comprises an antioxidant, for example tocopherol or vitamin E type, in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.05%, for example greater than or equal to 0.1%, and less than or equal to 2%, for example less than or equal to 1%; and / or

[0031] - the cosmetic composition further comprises a perfume, for example a perfume with 50% of natural origin with floral notes, powdered in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.1%, for example greater than or equal to 0.5%, and less than or equal to 5%, for example less than or equal to 2%.

[0032] The invention also relates to a process for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising the following successive steps:

[0033] - bring under medium stirring, for example greater than or equal to 900 rpm and less than or equal to 1200 rpm, at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C, a composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, squalane and the oil,

[0034] - cooling the mixture to a temperature greater than or equal to 73°C, for example greater than or equal to 74°C, and less than or equal to 76°C,

[0035] - add the absorbent powder with vigorous stirring, for example at greater than or equal to at 1600 rpm and less than or equal to 2000 rpm, until gelation,

[0036] - add the exfoliating particles with gentle stirring, for example higher or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm,

[0037] - after homogenizing the mixture, pour the mixture at a higher temperature or equal to 70°C and less than or equal to 80°C.

[0038] Advantageously, the method according to the invention makes it possible to suspend exfoliating particles in a hot oily matrix. The complexity of suspending the exfoliating particles and maintaining this suspension over time is accentuated in the case of the development of a solid exfoliant because the suspension of the particles must be ensured exclusively when the product is in liquid form.

[0039] It is therefore when the product is hot, in liquid form, that the particles can be caused to aggregate or sediment. Once the product has solidified, they are sequestered and can no longer aggregate or sediment. The uniform distribution of the particles must therefore be achieved when hot to guarantee a homogeneous distribution in the final product.

[0040] According to one aspect of the invention, the method for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises the addition of the humectant to the composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, the squalane and the oil under moderate stirring and at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C.

[0041] According to one aspect of the invention, the process for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises the addition to the composition comprising the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, the squalane and the oil of an antioxidant before bringing the mixture under moderate stirring to temperature.

[0042] According to one aspect of the invention, the method for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises, before pouring the mixture, the addition of cosmetic active ingredients with gentle stirring, for example greater than or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm.

[0043] According to one aspect of the invention, the method for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises, before pouring the mixture, the addition of perfume with gentle stirring, for example greater than or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm.

[0044] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care treatment process comprising cold emulsifying the cosmetic composition according to the invention in contact with water, making it possible to obtain an exfoliating cream, applying said exfoliating cream to wet skin, for example to facial skin, optionally leaving it to act for between 5 and 10 minutes, and removing it by rinsing, for example with water.

[0045] The invention relates to an exfoliating cream in solid galenic form, the exfoliating particles of interest of which are suspended while hot.

[0046] For the purposes of the invention, the term "solid galenic" means a composition which does not flow under its own weight at room temperature, namely at a temperature greater than or equal to 15°C, for example greater than or equal to 20°C and less than or equal to 30°C, for example less than or equal to 25°C.

[0047] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises exfoliating particles.

[0048] By "exfoliating particles" is meant solid and abrasive particles capable of carrying out, when applied to the skin within an exfoliating composition, a mechanical exfoliation (also called scrubbing) of the dead cells of the superficial layers of the epidermis.

[0049] Generally speaking, a skin scrub is typically carried out by applying an exfoliating composition to the skin, massaging the skin coated with said composition, then possibly rinsing said composition with water. The exfoliating particles then act by rubbing on the epidermis, the epidermis is thus smoothed, the absorption of cosmetic active ingredients and cell renewal are promoted.

[0050] As exfoliating particles, exfoliating particles of mineral origin, such as sands, rocks, perlite or clays, can be used.

[0051] As exfoliating particles, it is also possible to use exfoliating particles of plant origin, such as rice powder, kernels, leaves, stems, algae, bark, dried fruits or roots, for example in powder form.

[0052] As exfoliating particles, exfoliating particles of organic origin, such as polyethylene or wax-based beads, can also be used.

[0053] Advantageously, the exfoliating particles have a median size greater than or equal to 10 pm, for example greater than or equal to 50 pm and less than or equal to 1000 pm, for example less than or equal to 500 pm.

[0054] By “median size” of the exfoliating particles is meant the median size expressed in median diameter.

[0055] Exfoliating particles are present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 20%.

[0056] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an oil-in-water emulsifier.

[0057] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil-in-water emulsifier is of the polyglyceryl-4-oleate type.

[0058] The oil-in-water emulsifier may be present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 20%, for example less than or equal to 15%.

[0059] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points.

[0060] The mixture of at least two waxes is present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a total content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%.

[0061] Typically, according to one embodiment, the mixture of waxes comprises at least a first wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C and less than or equal to 70°C and a second wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 74°C and less than or equal to 78°C, the first and second waxes being in equimass concentration.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of two waxes is a mixture of montanov 202 & wax olea (trade names) whose INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) are: MONTANOV 202: arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, asque, glucose & WAX OLEA: hydrogenated vegetable oil, olea europaea fruit oil, tocopherol.

[0063] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises squalane.

[0064] According to one embodiment, the squalane is a phytosqualan, namely a natural squalane, of plant origin, manufactured from a renewable raw material, for example olive.

[0065] Squalane is present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 15%, for example less than or equal to 10%.

[0066] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises oil.

[0067] The oil present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be of vegetable type, for example derived from sunflower oil or milk thistle oil, or mineral.

[0068] The oil is present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 35%, for example less than or equal to 30%,

[0069] Advantageously, the inventors have observed that the combination of phytosqualane with vegetable oil in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention plays a crucial role in the texture and finish of the cosmetic product, in particular of the cream obtained by cold emulsion in contact with water of the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0070] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an absorbent powder.

[0071] The absorbent powder is present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%.

[0072] According to one embodiment, the absorbent powder has a median size greater than or equal to 1 μm, for example greater than or equal to 5 μm and less than or equal to 50 μm, for example less than or equal to 20 μm and an oil absorption (g / g) greater than or equal to 2.3 and less than or equal to 2.7, for example substantially equal to 2.5.

[0073] The inventors have found that the use of absorbent powder with high porosity, having a high specific surface area and an affinity for water, leads, through the absorption of the compounds of the fatty phase of a liquid product, to a gelling of the latter, then allowing the hot exfoliating particles of interest to be suspended.

[0074] Thus, the inventors were able to demonstrate that it is possible to suspend exfoliating particles in a solid galenic in a homogeneous manner, particularly facilitated by the use of absorbent powder having particular absorption properties and sizes.

[0075] According to one embodiment of the invention, the absorbent powder is composed of silica.

[0076] According to one embodiment of the invention, the absorbent powder is composed of an equimass coupling of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose. Advantageously, according to this embodiment the absorbent powder and more generally the solid cosmetic composition does not comprise silica or palm derivative.

[0077] An equimass coupling of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose ensures good efficiency of the suspension and the sensoriality of the finished product and makes it possible to do without the use of silica or palm derivative. Thus the use of a coupling equimass of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose makes it possible to reduce the environmental impact of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0078] According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid cosmetic composition comprises a humectant, for example of the glycerin, sorbitol, or propylene glycol type.

[0079] Advantageously, the presence of a humectant helps to retain moisture at the skin level.

[0080] According to one embodiment of the invention, the humectant is present in the solid cosmetic composition in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.5%, for example greater than or equal to 1%, and less than or equal to 7%, for example less than or equal to 5%.

[0081] According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid cosmetic composition comprises a cosmetic active ingredient, for example of the salicyloy phytosphingosine type.

[0082] Advantageously, the presence of a cosmetic active ingredient makes it possible to obtain a reinforced cosmetic effect. In particular, salicyloyl phytosphingosine has anti-inflammatory properties. It may be a pair of active ingredients, for example salicyloyl phytosphingosine, which reduces the symptoms of skin inflammation, and tocopheryl linoleate, which has anti-oxidant properties.

[0083] According to one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient is present in the solid cosmetic composition in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.05%, for example greater than or equal to 0.1%, and less than or equal to 5%, for example less than or equal to 2%.

[0084] According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid cosmetic composition comprises an antioxidant, for example of the vitamin E derivative type, such as a tocopherol.

[0085] Advantageously, the presence of an antioxidant active ingredient helps to protect skin cells against damage caused by free radicals.

[0086] According to one embodiment of the invention, the antioxidant is present in the solid cosmetic composition in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.05%, for example greater than or equal to 0.1%, and less than or equal to 2%, for example less than or equal to 1%.

[0087] According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid cosmetic composition comprises a perfume, preferably a perfume of natural origin, for example a perfume 50% of natural origin with floral, powdery notes.

[0088] Advantageously, the presence of a perfume makes the use of the cosmetic composition more pleasant and the user experience more specific.

[0089] According to one embodiment of the invention, the perfume is present in the solid cosmetic composition in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.1%, for example greater than or equal to 0.5%, and less than or equal to 5%, for example less than or equal to 2%.

[0090] As explained above, the inventors had to develop a specific manufacturing process to suspend the exfoliating particles and maintain this suspension over time. In the case of developing a solid cosmetic composition, this adds complexity.

[0091] Indeed, the suspension of the exfoliating particles must be ensured exclusively when the composition is in liquid form. It is when the composition is in liquid form that the exfoliating particles can be caused to aggregate or sediment. Once the composition has solidified, they are sequestered and can no longer aggregate or sediment. The uniform distribution of the exfoliating particles must therefore be carried out while hot to guarantee a homogeneous distribution in the final solid composition.

[0092] Furthermore, for environmental reasons, the inventors sought to develop a specific manufacturing process to successfully suspend the exfoliating particles, preferably without using silica or palm derivatives.

[0093] Thus, the invention also relates to a process for obtaining a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention. The process comprises at least the following successive steps:

[0094] - bring under medium stirring, for example greater than or equal to 900 rpm and less than or equal to 1200 rpm, at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C, a composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, squalane and the oil,

[0095] - cooling the mixture to a temperature greater than or equal to 73°C, for example greater than or equal to 74°C, and less than or equal to 76°C,

[0096] - add the absorbent powder with vigorous stirring, for example at greater than or equal to at 1600 rpm and less than or equal to 2000 rpm, until gelation,

[0097] - add the exfoliating particles with gentle stirring, for example higher or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm,

[0098] - after homogenizing the mixture, pour the mixture at a higher temperature or equal to 70°C and less than or equal to 80°C.

[0099] Advantageously, the method according to the invention makes it possible to put the exfoliating particles of interest into suspension while hot.

[0100] The process for obtaining a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise the addition of the humectant to the composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having melting points different fusion, squalane and oil under medium stirring and at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C.

[0101] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care treatment process comprising the cold emulsion in contact with water of the cosmetic composition according to the invention making it possible to obtain an exfoliating cream, the application of said exfoliating cream to wet skin, for example to the skin of the face, optionally leaving it to act for between 5 and 10 minutes, and its removal by rinsing, for example with water.

[0102] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following example. The contents of the components are expressed as a mass percentage.

[0103] The inventors prepared the following cosmetic composition, the quantities are expressed per 100g of cosmetic composition:

[0104] 5 to 15 g of oil-in-water H / W emulsifier of polyglyceryl-4-oleate type,

[0105] 20 g to 25 g of waxes with melting points between 74°C and 78°C and 60°C and 70°C in equimass concentration,

[0106] 5 g to 10 g of squalane,

[0107] 20 g to 30 g of milk thistle oil,

[0108] 0.1 g to 1 g of antioxidant, for example tocopherol,

[0109] 1 g to 5 g of humectant, for example of the glycerin type,

[0110] 6 g to 25 g of absorbent powder having a particle size of 5 μm to 20 pm and an oil absorption (g / g) of 2.5,

[0111] 6 g to 20 g of exfoliating particles having a median size greater than or equal to 50 pm and less than or equal to 500 pm,

[0112] 0.1 g to 1 g of a mixture of salicyloyl phytosphingosine and tocopheryl linoleate, and

[0113] 0.5 g to 2 g of 50% natural origin perfume with floral, powdery notes.

[0114] The waxes used in this example are a mixture of montanov 202 & wax olea (trade names) whose INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) are: MONTANOV 202: arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, asque, glucose & WAX OLEA: hydrogenated vegetable oil, olea europaea fruit oil, tocopherol.

[0115] The cosmetic composition is prepared according to the following procedure.

[0116] A first mixture is weighed consisting of the oil-in-water emulsifier, waxes, squalane, vegetable oil, and antioxidant.

[0117] The first mixture is melted at a temperature between 78°C and 80°C and homogenized with medium stirring at 1000 rpm for approximately 1 minute.

[0118] The humectant is weighed and added to the first mixture with medium stirring at 1000 rpm. The whole is then mixed for approximately 1 minute.

[0119] When the mixture is homogeneous, the temperature is reduced to 75°C.

[0120] The absorbent powder is added, ensuring that it is well dispersed between each addition of powder. Mix with vigorous stirring at 1800 rpm for approximately 15 minutes until gelation occurs. Ensure that the dispersion of the powders is homogeneous.

[0121] The exfoliating particles are added with gentle stirring at 800 rpm for approximately 5 minutes. The homogeneity of the particles in the mixture is checked.

[0122] The cosmetic active ingredient(s) are added and homogenized with gentle stirring at 800 rpm for approximately 2 minutes.

[0123] The perfume(s) are added and homogenized with gentle stirring at 800 rpm for approximately 2 minutes.

[0124] Finally, the cosmetic composition is poured at a temperature between 70°C and 75°C.

[0125] The invention has been described above with the aid of embodiments without limitation of the general inventive concept. Many other modifications and variations suggest themselves to those skilled in the art, after reflection on the various embodiments illustrated in this application.

[0126] These embodiments are given by way of example and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, which is determined exclusively by the claims below.

[0127] In the claims, the word "comprising" does not exclude other elements or steps, to the extent that these other elements or steps do not render the claim inoperative. The mere fact that different features are recited in mutually dependent claims does not indicate that a combination of these features cannot be advantageously used.

Claims

Claims

1. Solid cosmetic composition comprising: - an oil-in-water emulsifier in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 20%, for example less than or equal to 15%, - a mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points in a total content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%, - squalane in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 15%, for example less than or equal to 10%, - oil in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 35%,for example less than or equal to 30%, - exfoliating particles in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 20%, and - an absorbent powder in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%.,

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the oil-in-water emulsifier is of the polyglyceryl-4-oleate type.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, in which the mixture of waxes comprises at least a first wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C and less than or equal to 70°C and a second wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 74°C and less than or equal to 78°C, the first and second waxes being in equimass concentration.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the exfoliating particles have a size median greater than or equal to 10 pm, for example greater than or equal to 50 pm and less than or equal to 1000 pm, for example less than or equal to 500 pm.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the absorbent powder has a median size greater than or equal to 1 pm, for example greater than or equal to 5 pm and less than or equal to 50 pm, for example less than or equal to 20 pm and an oil absorption (g / g) greater than or equal to 2.3 and less than or equal to 2.7, for example substantially equal to 2.

5.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the absorbent powder is composed of an equimass coupling of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose and / or silica.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a humectant, for example of glycerin type, in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.5%, for example greater than or equal to 1%, and less than or equal to 7%, for example less than or equal to 5%.

8. Process for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising the following successive steps: - bringing under moderate stirring, for example greater than or equal to 900 rpm and less than or equal to 1200 rpm, to a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C, a composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, the squalane and the oil, - cooling the mixture to a temperature greater than or equal to 73°C, for example greater than or equal to 74°C, and less than or equal to 76°C, - adding the absorbent powder under vigorous stirring, for example at greater than or equal to 1600 rpm and less than or equal to 2000 rpm, until gelling, - adding the exfoliating particles under gentle stirring,for example greater than or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm, - after homogenizing the mixture, pour the mixture at a temperature greater than or equal to 70°C and less than or equal to 80°C.

9. A method according to claim 8, claim 7 applying, further comprising adding the humectant to the composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, the squalane and the oil under moderate stirring and at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C.

10. A non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care treatment process comprising cold emulsifying in contact with water the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 to obtain an exfoliating cream, applying said exfoliating cream to wet skin, for example to facial skin, optionally leaving to act for between 5 and 10 minutes, and removing it by rinsing, for example with water.