Solid cosmetic composition
A solid cosmetic composition with specific ingredients transforms into a creamy texture upon contact with water, addressing environmental impact and sensory needs, offering effective exfoliation and longer shelf life.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-03-29
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-13
AI Technical Summary
Existing exfoliating cosmetic compositions face challenges in balancing low environmental impact packaging with a creamy texture for sensitive skin while maintaining effective exfoliation, as liquid or cream-based products have significant environmental impacts and solid soaps lack sensory benefits.
A solid cosmetic composition is formulated with an oil-in-water emulsifier, a mixture of waxes with different melting points, squalane, exfoliating particles, absorbent powder, and optional additives, which upon contact with water, transforms into a creamy texture for gentle exfoliation.
The composition achieves a low environmental impact through recyclable packaging, longer shelf life, and optimized volume while providing a creamy texture and effective exfoliation without damaging the skin barrier.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Solid cosmetic composition
[0001] The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition, a method for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention and a method for non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care treatment comprising the cold emulsion in contact with water of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0002] Exfoliating cosmetic compositions are intended to remove, through mechanical friction, dead cells from the superficial layers of the epidermis, in order to leave the skin smooth. This accelerates skin cell renewal and may improve the penetration of cosmetic active ingredients into the epidermis.
[0003] The majority of exfoliating cosmetic compositions have a fluid, cream-like texture, more or less thick, to facilitate their application to the skin, and are rinseable with water to remove the deposit that remains after application and massage on the skin.
[0004] Liquid or cream-based cosmetic products require packaging that can have significant environmental impacts. Therefore, there is a need for an exfoliating cosmetic composition that can be stored in packaging with a low environmental impact.
[0005] There are also solid exfoliating products such as exfoliating solid soaps. This type of cosmetic product can be packaged in packaging with a low environmental impact, but at the expense of the creamy formula of exfoliating creams.
[0006] The creamy formula provides a sensorial texture and helps to coat the exfoliating grains for a gentle application on sensitive skin and exfoliation without altering the skin barrier.
[0007] There is therefore a need for a cosmetic composition that allows for both packaging with a low environmental impact and a creamy texture when applied to the skin.
[0008] One of the objects of the present invention is to provide an exfoliating cosmetic composition meeting these two requirements.
[0009] The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising:
[0010] - an oil-in-water emulsifier in a concentration by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 20%, for example less than or equal to 15%,
[0011] - a mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points in one total content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to at 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%,
[0012] - squalane in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 15%, for example less than or equal to 10%,
[0013] - of the oil in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 35%, for example less than or equal to 30%,
[0014] - exfoliating particles in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 20%, and
[0015] - an absorbent powder in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%.
[0016] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a solid dosage form at room temperature. This reduces the environmental impact of the product; in particular, the solid dosage form of the composition according to the invention allows for packaging in a recyclable and biodegradable cardboard box.
[0017] Furthermore, the shelf life of a cosmetic composition in solid dosage form is generally longer than its equivalent in liquid dosage form. The shelf life of the cosmetic product according to the invention is advantageously longer than that of liquid exfoliating cosmetic products.
[0018] Furthermore, a solid dosage form allows for volume optimization. Generally speaking, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention will take up less space than a fluid or creamy exfoliating cosmetic composition.
[0019] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention emulsifies upon contact with water, resulting in a thick, creamy texture with the same sensory characteristics as a liquid emulsion but from a solid formulation. This allows for gentle application on sensitive skin and exfoliation without damaging the skin barrier.
[0020] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more of the following characteristics, considered individually or in all technically possible combinations:
[0021] - the oil-in-water emulsifier is of the polyglyceryl-4-oleate type; and / or
[0022] - squalane is a phytosqualane; and / or
[0023] - the wax mixture comprises at least one first wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C and less than or equal to 70°C and a second wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 74°C and less than or equal to 78°C, the first and second waxes being in equimass concentrations; and / or
[0024] - the exfoliating particles have a median size greater than or equal to 10 pm, per for example, greater than or equal to 50 pm and less than or equal to 1000 pm, for example, less than or equal to 500 pm; and / or
[0025] - the absorbent powder has a median size greater than or equal to 1 pm, for example greater than or equal to 5 pm and less than or equal to 50 pm, for example less than or equal to 20 pm and an oil absorption (g / g) greater than or equal to 2.3 and less than or equal to 2.7, for example approximately equal to 2.5; and / or
[0026] - the absorbent powder is composed of an equimass coupling of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose and / or silica; and / or
[0027] - the cosmetic composition further comprises a humectant, for example of glycerin type, in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.5%, for example greater than or equal to 1%, and less than or equal to 7%, for example less than or equal to 5%; and / or
[0028] - the oil is of vegetable or mineral origin; and / or
[0029] - the cosmetic composition further comprises a cosmetic active ingredient, for example of the salicyloyl phytosphingosine type with tocopheryl linoleate, in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.05%, for example greater than or equal to 0.1%, and less than or equal to 5%, for example less than or equal to 2%; and / or
[0030] - the cosmetic composition further comprises an antioxidant, for example of tocopherol or vitamin E, in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.05%, for example greater than or equal to 0.1%, and less than or equal to 2%, for example less than or equal to 1%; and / or
[0031] - the cosmetic composition further comprises a perfume, for example a perfume with 50% of natural origin with floral notes, powdered in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.1%, for example greater than or equal to 0.5%, and less than or equal to 5%, for example less than or equal to 2%.
[0032] The invention also relates to a method for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the following successive steps:
[0033] - to be carried under medium agitation, for example greater than or equal to 900 rpm and less than or equal to 1200 rpm, at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C, a composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, squalane and oil,
[0034] - cool the mixture to a temperature greater than or equal to 73°C, for example greater than or equal to 74°C, and less than or equal to 76°C,
[0035] - add the absorbent powder under vigorous stirring, for example at a speed greater than or equal to at 1600 rpm and less than or equal to 2000 rpm, until gelling,
[0036] - add the exfoliating particles under gentle agitation, for example superior or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm,
[0037] - after homogenizing the mixture, pour the mixture at a higher temperature or equal to 70°C and less than or equal to 80°C.
[0038] Advantageously, the process according to the invention allows exfoliating particles to be suspended in a hot oily matrix. The complexity of suspending the exfoliating particles and maintaining this suspension over time is increased in the case of the preparation of a solid exfoliant because the suspension of the particles must be ensured exclusively when the product is in liquid form.
[0039] It is therefore when the product is hot and in liquid form that the particles can aggregate or settle. Once the product has solidified, these particles are sequestered and can no longer aggregate or settle. Uniform particle distribution must therefore be achieved while the product is hot to ensure homogeneous distribution in the final product.
[0040] According to one aspect of the invention, the process for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises adding the humectant to the composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, squalane and oil under medium agitation and at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C.
[0041] According to one aspect of the invention, the process for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises adding to the composition comprising the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, squalane and the oil of an antioxidant before bringing the mixture under medium stirring to temperature.
[0042] According to one aspect of the invention, the process for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises, before pouring the mixture, the addition of cosmetic actives under low agitation, for example greater than or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm.
[0043] According to one aspect of the invention, the process for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises, before pouring the mixture, the addition of perfume under low agitation, for example greater than or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm.
[0044] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care treatment method comprising cold emulsification with water of the cosmetic composition according to the invention to obtain an exfoliating cream, application of said exfoliating cream to wet skin, for example on facial skin, optionally leaving it to act between 5 and 10 minutes, and its removal by rinsing, for example with water.
[0045] The invention relates to a solid-form exfoliating cream in which the exfoliating particles of interest are suspended by heating.
[0046] For the purposes of the invention, "solid galenic" means a composition that does not flow under its own weight at room temperature, namely at a temperature greater than or equal to 15°C, for example greater than or equal to 20°C and less than or equal to 30°C, for example less than or equal to 25°C.
[0047] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises exfoliating particles.
[0048] By "exfoliating particles" we mean solid and abrasive particles capable of performing, when applied to the skin within an exfoliating composition, a mechanical exfoliation (also called scrubbing) of dead cells from the superficial layers of the epidermis.
[0049] Generally, skin exfoliation is typically performed by applying an exfoliating composition to the skin, massaging the skin coated with said composition, and then optionally rinsing the composition with water. The exfoliating particles then act by friction on the epidermis, thus smoothing the epidermis and promoting the absorption of cosmetic actives and cell renewal.
[0050] As exfoliating particles, exfoliating particles of mineral origin, such as sands, rocks, perlite or clays, can be used.
[0051] As exfoliating particles, exfoliating particles of plant origin can also be used, such as rice powder, kernels, leaves, stems, algae, bark, dried fruit or roots, for example in powder form.
[0052] As exfoliating particles, exfoliating particles of organic origin, such as polyethylene or wax-based beads, can also be used.
[0053] Advantageously, the exfoliating particles have a median size greater than or equal to 10 pm, for example greater than or equal to 50 pm and less than or equal to 1000 pm, for example less than or equal to 500 pm.
[0054] By “median size” of exfoliating particles, we mean the median size expressed in median diameter.
[0055] Exfoliating particles are present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a concentration by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 20%.
[0056] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an oil-in-water emulsifier.
[0057] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil-in-water emulsifier is of the polyglyceryl-4-oleate type.
[0058] The oil-in-water emulsifier may be present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a weight content relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 20%, for example less than or equal to 15%.
[0059] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points.
[0060] The mixture of at least two waxes is present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a total content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%.
[0061] Typically, according to one embodiment, the wax mixture comprises at least a first wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C and less than or equal to 70°C and a second wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 74°C and less than or equal to 78°C, the first and second waxes being in equimass concentration.
[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of two waxes is a mixture of Montanov 202 & Wax Olea (trade names) whose INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) are: MONTANOV 202: arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, asque, glucose & WAX OLEA: hydrogenated vegetable oil, olea europaea fruit oil, tocopherol.
[0063] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises squalane.
[0064] According to one embodiment, squalane is a phytosqualan, namely a natural squalane, of plant origin, made from a renewable raw material, for example olive.
[0065] Squalane is present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 3%, for example greater than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 15%, for example less than or equal to 10%.
[0066] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises oil.
[0067] The oil present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be of vegetable type, for example derived from sunflower oil or milk thistle oil, or mineral.
[0068] The oil is present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 15%, for example greater than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 35%, for example less than or equal to 30%,
[0069] Advantageously, the inventors have observed that the combination of phytosqualane with vegetable oil in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention plays a crucial role in the texture and finish of the cosmetic product, in particular the cream obtained by cold emulsification with water of the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0070] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an absorbent powder.
[0071] The absorbent powder is present in the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%.
[0072] According to one embodiment, the absorbent powder has a median size greater than or equal to 1 pm, for example greater than or equal to 5 pm and less than or equal to 50 pm, for example less than or equal to 20 pm and an oil absorption (g / g) greater than or equal to 2.3 and less than or equal to 2.7, for example substantially equal to 2.5.
[0073] The inventors have observed that the use of highly porous absorbent powder, having a high specific surface area and an affinity for water, leads, through the absorption of the compounds of the oily phase of a liquid product, to a gelation of the latter, thus allowing the suspension of the exfoliating particles of interest when heated.
[0074] Thus, the inventors were able to demonstrate that it is possible to suspend exfoliating particles in a solid galenic in a homogeneous manner, in particular facilitated by the use of absorbent powder having particular absorption properties and sizes.
[0075] According to one embodiment of the invention, the absorbent powder is composed of silica.
[0076] According to one embodiment of the invention, the absorbent powder is composed of an equimass coupling of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose. Advantageously, according to this embodiment, the absorbent powder, and more generally the solid cosmetic composition, does not contain silica or palm derivatives.
[0077] An equimass coupling of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose ensures good suspension efficiency and the sensory qualities of the finished product, and eliminates the need for silica or palm derivatives. Thus, the use of a coupling equimass of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose makes it possible to reduce the environmental impact of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0078] According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid cosmetic composition comprises a humectant, for example of the glycerin, sorbitol, or propylene glycol type.
[0079] Advantageously, the presence of a humectant helps to retain moisture at the skin level.
[0080] According to one embodiment of the invention, the humectant is present in the solid cosmetic composition in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.5%, for example greater than or equal to 1%, and less than or equal to 7%, for example less than or equal to 5%.
[0081] According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid cosmetic composition comprises a cosmetic active ingredient, for example of the salicyloy phytosphingosine type.
[0082] Advantageously, the presence of a cosmetic active ingredient allows for an enhanced cosmetic effect. In particular, salicyloyl phytosphingosine has anti-inflammatory properties. This can involve a combination of active ingredients, for example, salicyloyl phytosphingosine, which reduces the symptoms of skin inflammation, and tocopheryl linoleate, which has antioxidant properties.
[0083] According to one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient is present in the solid cosmetic composition in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.05%, for example greater than or equal to 0.1%, and less than or equal to 5%, for example less than or equal to 2%.
[0084] According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid cosmetic composition comprises an antioxidant, for example of the vitamin E derivative type, such as a tocopherol.
[0085] Advantageously, the presence of an antioxidant active ingredient helps to protect skin cells against damage caused by free radicals.
[0086] According to one embodiment of the invention, the antioxidant is present in the solid cosmetic composition in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.05%, for example greater than or equal to 0.1%, and less than or equal to 2%, for example less than or equal to 1%.
[0087] According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid cosmetic composition comprises a perfume, preferably a perfume of natural origin, for example a perfume with 50% natural origin and floral, powdery notes.
[0088] Advantageously, the presence of a fragrance makes the use of the cosmetic composition more pleasant and the user experience more specific.
[0089] According to one embodiment of the invention, the perfume is present in the solid cosmetic composition in a concentration by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.1%, for example greater than or equal to 0.5%, and less than or equal to 5%, for example less than or equal to 2%.
[0090] As explained previously, the inventors had to develop a specific manufacturing process to suspend the exfoliating particles and maintain this suspension over time. In the case of developing a solid cosmetic composition, this adds complexity.
[0091] Indeed, the suspension of the exfoliating particles must be ensured exclusively when the composition is in liquid form. It is when the composition is in liquid form that the exfoliating particles can aggregate or settle. Once the composition has solidified, they are sequestered and can no longer aggregate or settle. The uniform distribution of the exfoliating particles must therefore be achieved under heat to guarantee homogeneous distribution in the final solid composition.
[0092] Furthermore, for environmental reasons, the inventors sought to develop a specific manufacturing process to successfully suspend the exfoliating particles, preferably without using silica or palm derivatives.
[0093] Thus, the invention also relates to a method for obtaining a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention. The method comprises at least the following successive steps:
[0094] - to be carried under medium agitation, for example greater than or equal to 900 rpm and less than or equal to 1200 rpm, at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C, a composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, squalane and oil,
[0095] - cool the mixture to a temperature greater than or equal to 73°C, for example greater than or equal to 74°C, and less than or equal to 76°C,
[0096] - add the absorbent powder under vigorous stirring, for example at a speed greater than or equal to at 1600 rpm and less than or equal to 2000 rpm, until gelling,
[0097] - add the exfoliating particles under gentle stirring, for example superior or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm,
[0098] - after homogenizing the mixture, pour the mixture at a higher temperature or equal to 70°C and less than or equal to 80°C.
[0099] Advantageously, the process according to the invention allows the exfoliating particles of interest to be suspended while hot.
[0100] The process for obtaining a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention may also include adding the humectant to the composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having melting points different melting, squalane and oil under medium agitation and at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C.
[0101] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care treatment process comprising cold emulsification in contact with water of the cosmetic composition according to the invention allowing to obtain an exfoliating cream, the application of said exfoliating cream on wet skin, for example on the skin of the face, optionally leaving it to act between 5 and 10 minutes, and its removal by rinsing, for example with water.
[0102] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following example. The contents of the components are expressed as mass percentages.
[0103] The inventors have prepared the following cosmetic composition; the quantities are expressed per 100g of cosmetic composition:
[0104] 5 to 15 g of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifier of the polyglyceryl-4-oleate type,
[0105] 20 g to 25 g of waxes with melting points between 74°C and 78°C and 60°C and 70°C at equimass concentration,
[0106] 5 g to 10 g of squalane,
[0107] 20 g to 30 g of milk thistle oil,
[0108] 0.1 g to 1 g of antioxidant, for example tocopherol,
[0109] 1 g to 5 g of humectant, for example of the glycerin type,
[0110] 6 g to 25 g of absorbent powder having a particle size of 5 pm to 20 pm and an oil absorption (g / g) of 2.5,
[0111] 6 g to 20 g of exfoliating particles having a median size greater than or equal to 50 pm and less than or equal to 500 pm,
[0112] 0.1 g to 1 g of a mixture of salicyloyl phytosphingosine and tocopheryl linoleate, and
[0113] 0.5 g to 2 g of perfume of 50% natural origin with floral, powdery notes.
[0114] The waxes used in this example are a mixture of Montanov 202 & Wax Olea (trade names) whose INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) are: MONTANOV 202: arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, asque, glucose & WAX OLEA: hydrogenated vegetable oil, olea europaea fruit oil, tocopherol.
[0115] The cosmetic composition is prepared according to the following procedure.
[0116] A first mixture consisting of the oil-in-water emulsifier, waxes, squalane, vegetable oil, and antioxidant is weighed.
[0117] The first mixture is melted at a temperature between 78°C and 80°C and homogenized under medium stirring at 1000 rpm for about 1 minute.
[0118] The humectant is weighed and added to the first mixture under medium stirring at 1000 rpm. The mixture is then blended for approximately 1 minute.
[0119] When the mixture is homogeneous, the temperature is reduced to 75°C.
[0120] The absorbent powder is added, ensuring thorough dispersion between each addition. Mix under vigorous stirring at 1800 rpm for approximately 15 minutes until gelling occurs. Ensure homogeneous dispersion of the powders.
[0121] The exfoliating particles are added under low stirring at 800 rpm for approximately 5 minutes. The homogeneity of the particles in the mixture is checked.
[0122] The cosmetic active ingredient(s) are added and homogenized under low agitation at 800 rpm for approximately 2 minutes.
[0123] Add the fragrance(s) and homogenize under low agitation at 800 rpm for approximately 2 minutes.
[0124] Finally the cosmetic composition is poured at a temperature between 70°C and 75°C.
[0125] The invention has been described above with the aid of embodiments without limitation of the general inventive concept. Many other modifications and variations are self-evident to a person skilled in the art, upon consideration of the various embodiments illustrated in this application.
[0126] These embodiments are given by way of example and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, which is determined exclusively by the claims below.
[0127] In the claims, the word "comprising" does not exclude other elements or steps, provided that such other elements or steps do not render the claim inoperative. The mere fact that different features are listed in mutually dependent claims does not indicate that a combination of these features cannot be advantageously used.
Claims
Demands
1. A solid cosmetic composition comprising: - an oil-in-water emulsifier in a weight content relative to the total weight of the composition of more than or equal to 3%, for example more than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 20%, for example less than or equal to 15%, - a mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points in a weight content relative to the total weight of the composition of more than or equal to 15%, for example more than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%, - squalane in a weight content relative to the total weight of the composition of more than or equal to 3%, for example more than or equal to 5%, and less than or equal to 15%, for example less than or equal to 10%, - oil in a weight content relative to the total weight of the composition of more than or equal to 15%, for example more than or equal to 20%, and less than or equal to 35%,for example less than or equal to 30%, - exfoliating particles in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 20%, and - an absorbent powder in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 4%, for example greater than or equal to 6%, and less than or equal to 30%, for example less than or equal to 25%.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil-in-water emulsifier is of the polyglyceryl-4-oleate type.
3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the mixture of waxes comprises at least a first wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C and less than or equal to 70°C and a second wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 74°C and less than or equal to 78°C, the first and second waxes being in equimass concentrations.
4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the exfoliating particles have a size median greater than or equal to 10 pm, for example greater than or equal to 50 pm and less than or equal to 1000 pm, for example less than or equal to 500 pm.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the absorbent powder has a median size greater than or equal to 1 pm, e.g. greater than or equal to 5 pm and less than or equal to 50 pm, e.g. less than or equal to 20 pm and an oil absorption (g / g) greater than or equal to 2.3 and less than or equal to 2.7, e.g. substantially equal to 2.
5.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the absorbent powder is composed of an equimass coupling of microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose and / or silica.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a humectant, for example of the glycerin type, in a content by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, greater than or equal to 0.5%, for example greater than or equal to 1%, and less than or equal to 7%, for example less than or equal to 5%.
8. A method for obtaining a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising the following successive steps: - heating, under medium stirring, for example at a speed greater than or equal to 900 rpm and less than or equal to 1200 rpm, to a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C, a composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, a mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, squalane, and oil; - cooling the mixture to a temperature greater than or equal to 73°C, for example greater than or equal to 74°C, and less than or equal to 76°C; - adding the absorbent powder under vigorous stirring, for example at a speed greater than or equal to 1600 rpm and less than or equal to 2000 rpm, until gelling; - adding the exfoliating particles under light stirring.for example, greater than or equal to 600 rpm and less than or equal to 880 rpm, - after homogenizing the mixture, pour the mixture at a temperature greater than or equal to 70°C and less than or equal to 80°C.
9. A process according to claim 8, claim 7 applying, further comprising adding the humectant to the composition comprising at least the oil-in-water emulsifier, the mixture of at least two waxes having different melting points, squalane and oil under medium stirring and at a temperature greater than or equal to 77°C, for example greater than or equal to 78°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for example less than or equal to 80°C.
10. A non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care treatment process comprising cold-emulsifying the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in order to obtain an exfoliating cream, applying said exfoliating cream to wet skin, for example to facial skin, optionally leaving it on for 5 to 10 minutes, and removing it by rinsing, for example with water.