CLEANSING AND / OR MAKE-UP REMOVAL COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS
A stable makeup remover composition using a wax with a high melting point, a surfactant with two chains, and N-acylalanine salts addresses instability issues, ensuring effective makeup removal and skin health.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup remover compositions are unstable at extreme temperatures, leading to phase separation and precipitation, which affects their effectiveness in removing makeup residues and clogging pores.
A composition comprising at least one wax with a melting point of at least 50 °C, a surfactant with at least two chains, and N-acylalanine or its salts, which maintains stability from -20 °C to 20 °C and room temperature.
The composition remains stable and effective in removing makeup, preventing phase separation and precipitation, thus maintaining skin health by avoiding pore clogging.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: CLEANSING AND / OR MAKE-UP REMOVER COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a method for cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials using said composition. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Cleansing the skin or removing makeup is very important for skin care. In particular, it is very important for consumers of makeup products to have an effective makeup remover available. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as dirt, excess sebum, remnants of cosmetics used daily, and makeup products, especially waterproof products, accumulate in skin folds and can clog pores and lead to the appearance of blemishes.
[0003] Several types of skin cleansing or makeup-removing products are known, for example, rinse-off anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams and lotions.
[0004] Rinse-off anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing or makeup-removing action due to the oils present in these formulations. These oils dissolve oily residues and disperse makeup pigments.
[0005] Some cleaners, in particular some no-rinse cleaners available on the market, are stable at room temperature.
[0006] However, after being frozen, they will not be stable, for example they will be translucent and / or there will be precipitation and / or phase separation.
[0007] Therefore, there is a need to formulate compositions, preferably for cleansing and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, which can be stable in a cycle condition of -20 °C to 20 °C. Summary of the invention
[0008] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the present invention.
[0009] Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, comprising: i. at least one wax with a melting point of at least 50 °C; ii. at least one surfactant having at least two chains; and iii. an N-acylalanine and / or its salts.
[0010] The composition according to the present invention can be stable under a cycle condition of -20 °C to 20 °C.
[0011] The inventors discovered that in certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention can be stable at room temperature (for example, 25 °C).
[0012] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, comprising the application on the keratinous materials, in particular on the skin, of the composition according to the present invention.
[0013] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0014] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0015] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0016] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0017] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0018] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which, if necessary, may be changed according to the desired purpose.
[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" is intended to refer to human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is specifically considered in the context of the present invention.
[0020] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0021] According to one aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: i. at least one wax with a melting point of at least 50 °C; ii. at least one surfactant having at least two chains; and iii. an N-acylalanine and / or its salts. Waxes
[0022] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one wax having a melting point of at least 50 °C.
[0023] As used herein, the term “wax” refers to a deformable or non-deformable lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C), exhibiting a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, which can go up to 120 °C.
[0024] Preferably, the waxes which are suitable for use in the invention have a melting point of 50 °C to 90 °C, preferably of 55 °C to 80 °C, more preferably of 60 °C to 80 °C.
[0025] The expression "lipophilic compound" refers to a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg of KOH / g.
[0026] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed during thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.
[0027] The measurement protocol is as follows:
[0028] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute. It is then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature ramp from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the change in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the change in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.
[0029] The waxes may be hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes and / or fluorinated waxes, and may be of vegetable, mineral and / or synthetic origin.
[0030] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point of 50 °C, preferably from 50 °C to 90 °C, more preferably from 55 °C to 85 °C, even more preferably from 60 °C to 80 °C.
[0031] As used herein, the term “hydrocarbon wax” refers to a wax formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally comprising an oxygen and / or nitrogen atom. These waxes therefore do not contain silicon or fluorine atoms.
[0032] Examples of hydrocarbon waxes include Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, beeswax, Chinese insect wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, laurel berry wax, lacquer wax and sumach wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0033] Preferably, the wax used in the composition according to the present invention is of vegetable origin.
[0034] More preferably, the wax is chosen from Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, and combinations thereof.
[0035] In some particularly preferred embodiments, the oily phase includes euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, for example that sold under the trade name 7820 LIGHT SPECIAL CANDELILLA REAL® by the company MULTICERAS.
[0036] Advantageously, the wax having a melting point of at least 50 °C is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants having at least two chains
[0037] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant having at least two chains.
[0038] The surfactant having at least two chains can be chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, having at least two chains, and mixtures thereof.
[0039] Preferably, the surfactant having at least two chains is chosen from non-ionic surfactants having at least two chains, preferably chosen from polyglycerol and fatty acid diesters and triesters, more preferably chosen from polyglycerol diesters and triesters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol motifs and saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s) comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0040] Examples of polyglycerin and fatty acid diesters and triesters include, but are not limited to, the following: PG2 dicaprate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 distearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 dioleate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 distearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 dioleate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 distearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 dioleate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 distearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 dioleate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 distearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 dioleate, PG7 dicaprate, PG7 dicaprylate, PG7 dilaurate, PG7 dimyristate, PG7 distearate, PG7 diisostearate, PG7 dioleate, PG8 dicaprate, PG8 dicaprylate, PG8 dilaurate, PG8 dimyristate, PG8 distearate, PG8 diisostearate, PG8 dioleate, PG9 dicaprate, PG9 dicaprylate, PG9 dilaurate, PG9 dimyristate,PG9 distéarate, PG9 diisostéarate, PG9 dioléate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 distéarate, PG10 diisostéarate, PG 10 dioléate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 tristéarate, PG2 triisostéarate, PG2 trioléate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 tristéarate, PG3 triisostéarate, PG3 trioléate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 tristéarate, PG4 triisostéarate, PG4 trioléate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tristéarate, PG5 triisostéarate, PG5 trioléate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tristéarate, PG6 triisostéarate, PG6 trioléate, PG7 tricaprate, PG7 tricaprylate, PG7 trilaurate, PG7 trimyristate, PG7 tristéarate, PG7 triisostéarate, PG7 trioléate, PG8 tricaprate, PG8 tricaprylate, PG8 trilaurate, PG8 trimyristate, PG8 tristéarate, PG8 triisostéarate,PG8 trioleate, PG9 tricaprate, PG9 tricaprylate, PG9 trilaurate, PG9 trimyristate, PG9 Trèsstearate, PG9 triisostearate, PG9 trioleate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 Tristearate, PG10 triisostearate, and PG10 trioleate. ,
[0041] More preferably, the surfactant having at least two chains is chosen from polyglycerol diesters comprising 4 to 16 glycerol motifs and fatty acid(s) saturated or unsaturated comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0042] Even more preferably, the surfactant having at least two chains is chosen from:
[0043] - polyglyceryl distearates comprising 4 to 16 glycerol motifs, and
[0044] - polyglyceryl dioleates comprising 4 to 16 glycerol motifs,
[0045] preferably selected from polyglyceryl dioleates comprising 4 to 16 glycerol motifs.
[0046] In certain particularly preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises polyglyceryl-10 diodeate.
[0047] Advantageously, the surfactant having at least two chains is present in the oily composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily composition. N-acylalanine and its salts
[0048] The composition according to the present invention comprises an N-acylalanine and / or its salts.
[0049] Preferably, N-acylalanine and / or its salts are chosen from the compounds represented by formula (1) H o Rk zhK JL n, f T f OM O CH3
[0050] wherein RI represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, preferably selected from an alkyl or an alkenyl, more preferably selected from a C7-C21 alkyl or alkenyl, even more preferably selected from a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl,
[0051] M represents an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, an ammonium or a hydrogen, preferably chosen from the alkali metals and a hydrogen, more preferably chosen from a sodium, a potassium and a hydrogen.
[0052] More preferably, N-acylalanine and / or its salts are selected from cocoylalanine, lauroylalanine, stearoylalanine, myristoylalanine, palmitoylalanine, oleoylalanine, sodium cocoylalanine, sodium lauroylalanine, sodium stearoylalanine, sodium myristoylalanine, sodium palmitoylalanine, sodium oleoylalanine, potassium cocoylalanine, potassium lauroylalanine, potassium stearoylalanine, the potassium myristoylalaninate, potassium palmitoylalaninate, potassium oleoylalaninate, and their combinations.
[0053] Even more preferably, N-acylalanine and / or its salts are chosen from cocoylalanine, lauroylalanine, sodium cocoylalanine, potassium cocoylalanine, sodium lauroylalanine, potassium lauroylalanine, and their combinations.
[0054] In certain particularly preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises sodium cocoylaninate.
[0055] Advantageously, N-acylalanine and / or its salts are present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, most preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. N-acylglycine and its salts
[0056] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises an N-acylglycine and / or its salts.
[0057] N-acylglycine and / or its salts are selected from the compounds represented by formula (2)
[0058] wherein R2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, preferably selected from an alkyl or an alkenyl, more preferably selected from a C7-C21 alkyl or alkenyl, even more preferably selected from a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl,
[0059] M represents an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, an ammonium or a hydrogen, preferably chosen from the alkali metals and a hydrogen, more preferably chosen from a sodium, a potassium and a hydrogen.
[0060] More preferably, N-acylglycine and / or its salts are selected from cocoylglycine, lauroylglycine, stearoylglycine, myristoylglycine, palmitoylglycine, oleoylglycine, sodium cocoylglycinate, sodium lauroylglycinate, sodium stearoylglycinate, sodium myristoylglycinate, sodium palmitoylglycinate, sodium oleoylglycinate, and sodium cocoylglycinate. potassium, potassium lauroylglycinate, potassium stearoylglycinate, potassium myristoylglycinate, potassium palmitoylglycinate, potassium oleoglycinate, and their combinations.
[0061] Even more preferably, N-acylglycine and / or its salts are chosen from cocoylglycine, lauroylglycine, sodium cocoylglycinate, potassium cocoylglycinate, sodium lauroylglycinate, potassium lauroylglycinate, and their combinations.
[0062] In certain particularly preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises potassium cocoylglycinate.
[0063] Advantageously, N-acylglycine and / or its salts are present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils
[0064] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil.
[0065] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0066] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound immiscible with water that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The expression "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that can remain on keratinous materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that, in particular, has a vapor pressure of less than 10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil can also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm².
[0067] These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0068] Said oil can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils or fluorinated oils.
[0069] The expression "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil formed essentially, or even made up of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of O and N atoms, and free from Si and F heteroatoms. Such an oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0070] The expression "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular containing Si-O groups.
[0071] The expression "fluoridated oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
[0072] Preferably, the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils, such as isohexadecane, squalane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and myristyle myristate.
[0073] In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes squalane.
[0074] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Aqueous phase
[0075] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
[0076] The aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount of up to 50% by weight at 99% by weight, more preferably from 60% by weight to 98% by weight, even more preferably from 70% by weight to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least one water-miscible organic solvent at an ambient temperature of 25 °C, such as monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propanediol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol (C1-C4 alkyl) ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (C1-C4 alkyl) ethers; and mixtures thereof.
[0078] More preferably, the composition comprises an organic solvent, preferably one or more polyols, more preferably the polyol contains from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, even more preferably the polyol is selected from glycerol, diglycerol, propanediol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and their combinations; wherein the polyol is preferably present in an amount from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water, preferably in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 93% by weight, even more preferably from 50% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] In some preferred embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises water and a polyol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glycerin.
[0081] In some particularly preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises 50% by weight to 90% by weight of water and 2% by weight to 20% by weight of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0082] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those classically used in skin care cleansers.
[0083] The composition according to the present invention may include, for example, one or more of the following: pH correcting agents; additional surfactants; antibacterial agents, perfumes, colorants, and thickeners.
[0084] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients.
[0085] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleansing and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point of 60 °C to 80 °C; ii. from 0.15% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one surfactant having at least two chains selected from polyglyceryl diodeates comprising 4 to 16 glycerol units; and iii. 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of an N-acylalanine and / or its salts selected from lauroylalanine, cocoylalanine, sodium lauroylalanine, potassium lauroylalanine, sodium cocoylalanine, potassium cocoylalanine, and their combinations. Method and use
[0086] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, such as skin, in particular the face, by being applied to the keratinous materials.
[0087] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, more preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0088] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a microemulsion.
[0089] Preferably, the composition is transparent.
[0090] By "transparent", for the purposes of the present invention, means a composition having a turbidity value of less than 200 UTN.
[0091] Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is less than 150 UTN, more preferably less than 100 UTN, more preferably less than 2 UTN.
[0092] NTUs (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units of measurement for the turbidity of a composition. Turbidity measurement is carried out, for example, with a model 2100AN turbidimeter from the company Hach, the tubes used for the measurement having the reference 2084900. The measurements are carried out at room temperature (from 20 °C to 25 °C).
[0093] It can be used as a daily facial cleanser and / or as a makeup remover.
[0094] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is a no-rinse product. Thus, such a composition can be applied to the skin (i.e., the face and / or body) and then remain on the skin.
[0095] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or a cotton ball or by spraying.
[0096] Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention proposes a method for cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, comprising the application on the keratinous materials, in particular on the skin, of the composition according to the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0097] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be construed as limiting the scope.
[0098] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers have been listed in Table 1.
[0099] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (and) to copherol (Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (and) to copherol) SUNSOFT Q-172Y-C(MB) TAIYO KAGA KU Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax (Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax) 7820 LIGHT SPECIAL CANDELILLA REAL MULTICERAS Sodium cocoyl alaninate (Sodium c ocoyl alaninate) AMILITE ACS-12 AJINOMOTO Potassium cocoyl glycinate (Potassi um cocoyl glycinate) AMILITE GCK-11 AJINOMOTO
[0100] Examples of the invention 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4
[0101] The compositions of the examples of the invention (Ev.) 1 and 2 and of the comparative examples (Ev.) 1 to 4 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (the contents were expressed as percentages by weight of active materials relative to the total weight of each composition):
[0102] [Tables2] ELI EL 2 EC components. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate (and) Tocopterol* 0.7 1.4 0 0 0.7 0.7 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 0 0 0 0.7 0 0 Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate 0.3 0.6 0.3 0.3 0.3 1.2 Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) Wax 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0 0.9 Squalane 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 1 0.1 Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate 0.9 1.8 0.9 0.9 0.9 0 Glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 10 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100
[0103] Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate (and) tocopherol*: the weight percentage of active material refers to the weight percentage of polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate.
[0104] The compositions of examples 1 and 2 of the invention represent the compositions of the present invention.
[0105] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one surfactant having at least two chains.
[0106] The composition of comparative example 2 includes polyglyceryl-10 laurate instead of a surfactant having at least two chains.
[0107] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include wax with a melting point of at least 50 °C.
[0108] The composition of comparative example 4 does not include N-acylalanine and / or its salts. Preparation process
[0109] The above compositions were prepared as follows.
[0110] Squalane and euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax (where applicable) were mixed with surfactants (including polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (and) tocopherol and / or polyglyceryl-10 laurate and / or potassium cocoylglycinate) at 80 °C to obtain a mixture.
[0111] The mixture was introduced into water at 80 °C under stirring at 700 rpm for 10 minutes, then cooled to obtain a microemulsion.
[0112] Next, the microemulsion was transferred into a main vessel with glycerin, sodium cocoylaninate (if applicable), and water under agitation to obtain the final composition. Assessment
[0113] Each composition prepared above has been evaluated in terms of cycle stability and stability at room temperature (TA). Cycle stability
[0114] Each composition was stored at -20 °C for 12 h, then at 20 °C for 12 h, then this process was repeated 9 times, and then each composition was returned to room temperature (25 °C) from 20 °C.
[0115] Next, the appearance of each composition was observed and the turbidity of each composition was measured using a HACH 2100AN turbidimeter available from the HACH company.
[0116] Next, the cycle stability of each composition was evaluated according to the following standard:
[0117] Transparent: turbidity < 200 NTU, no visible precipitation or separation.
[0118] Translucent: turbidity > 200 NTU, no visible precipitation or separation.
[0119] Precipitation: presence of visible particles in the composition under test.
[0120] Separation: presence of a clear boundary between the phases, that is to say that there is a phase separation. Stability at room temperature (TA)
[0121] Each composition was stored at 25 °C for 2 months, then the appearance of each composition was observed and the turbidity of each composition was measured using a HACH 2100AN turbidimeter available from the HACH company.
[0122] Next, the stability at room temperature of each composition was evaluated according to the standard presented above.
[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, a composition shall be considered stable if it exhibits a transparent appearance after being stored for a specified period under a specified condition.
[0124] The cycle stability and room temperature stability of each composition have been summarized in Table 3.
[0125] [Tables3] Stability EI.l EI.2 EC.l EC.2 EC.3 EC.4 Cycle Transparent Transparent Separation Separation Separation Translucent TA Transparen te Transparen te Separation Separation Separation Transparent
[0126] It can be seen in Table 3 that the compositions of ELI and EI.2 are stable not only under a cycle condition of -20 °C to 20, but also at room temperature (25 °C).
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably for cleansing and / or removing keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one wax having a melting point of at least 50°C; (ii) at least one surfactant having at least two chains; and (iii) an N-acylalanine and / or its salts.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the wax has a melting point of 50°C to 90°C, preferably of 55°C to 80°C, more preferably of 60°C to 80°C.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the wax having a melting point of at least 50°C is selected from hydrocarbon waxes, preferably selected from Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, microcrystalline waxes, and a combination thereof, more preferably the composition comprises Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the surfactant having at least two chains is selected from non-ionic surfactants having at least two chains, preferably, the surfactant having at least two chains is selected from polyglycerol and fatty acid diesters and triesters, more preferably, the surfactant having at least two chains is selected from polyglycerol diesters and triesters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol motifs and saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s) comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the surfactant having at least two chains is selected from polyglycerol diesters comprising 4 to 16 glycerol units and saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s) comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the surfactant having at least two chains is selected from - polyglyceryl distearates comprising 4 to 16 glycerol units, and - polyglyceryl dioleates comprising 4 to 16 glycerol units, more preferably, the surfactant having at least two chains is chosen from polyglyceryl diodeates comprising 4 to 16 glycerol motifs, most preferably the composition comprises polyglyceryl-10 diodeate.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein N-acylalanine and / or its salts are selected from the compounds represented by the formula (1) H o CD 1 1.1 °M 0 in which RI represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, preferably selected from an alkyl or an alkenyl, more preferably selected from a C7-C21 alkyl or alkenyl, even more preferably selected from a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl, M represents an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, an ammonium or a hydrogen, preferably selected from the alkali metals and a hydrogen, more preferably selected from a sodium, a potassium and a hydrogen.
7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein N-acylalanine and / or its salts are selected from lauroylalanine, cocoylalanine, sodium lauroylalanine, potassium lauroylalanine, sodium cocoylalanine, potassium cocoylalanine, and combinations thereof.
8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of at least some hydrocarbon waxes having a melting point of 60°C to 80°C; (ii) 0.15% to 3% by weight of at least one surfactant having at least two chains selected from polyglyceryl dioleates comprising 4 to 16 glycerol units; and (iii) 0.5% to 3% by weight of an N-acylalanine and / or its salts selected from lauroylalanine, cocoylalanine, sodium lauroylalanine, potassium lauroylalanine,
9. sodium cocoyllaninate, potassium cocoyllaninate, and their combinations. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising an N-acylglycine and / or its salts, preferably selected from the compounds represented by formula (2) in which R2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, preferably selected from an alkyl or an alkenyl, more preferably selected from a C7-C21 alkyl or alkenyl, even more preferably selected from a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl, M represents an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, an ammonium or a hydrogen, preferably chosen from the alkali metals and a hydrogen, more preferably chosen from a sodium, a potassium and a hydrogen.
10. A method for cleaning and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, comprising applying to the keratinous materials, in particular to the skin, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.