COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION
The cosmetic sunscreen composition addresses stability and sensory challenges by using esters, alcohol esters, organic UV filters, and anionic copolymers, ensuring high SPF protection and a dry feel without inorganic filters, while promoting environmental sustainability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024006097
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-03-27
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-10
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-03
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-06-10
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic sunscreen compositions face challenges in achieving high stability, anti-oily skin and anti-acne effects, while maintaining high concentrations of UV filters and fillers, and preserving sensory properties such as spreadability, absorption, and a dry feel on the skin, while also incorporating green ingredients that do not harm the environment.
A cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising at least one ester, one alcohol ester, one organic UV filter in an aqueous phase, and one anionic copolymer, without inorganic filters, to enhance stability and sensory properties.
The composition provides high SPF protection with a dry feel, matte effect, and improved spreadability, while using green ingredients and avoiding environmental impact, maintaining stability and sensory characteristics.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one organic filter in aqueous phase, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Photoprotection of keratinous materials, including skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to provide protection against sun damage, sunburn, photoaging, as well as to reduce the risks of developing skin cancer caused by exposure to ultraviolet ("UV") radiation. There are typically two types of UVA / UVB sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
[0003] Consumers are concerned about the negative effects of sun exposure, particularly the dangerous effects of exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) light. Prolonged exposure to sunlight results in damage to the skin, such as sunburn. When the skin is exposed to UV light having a wavelength of about 290 nm to about 400 nm, long-term damage can lead to serious conditions such as skin cancer. UV light also contributes to aging by causing the formation of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radical, superoxide anion, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids, and proteins, generating carbon radicals.These in turn react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical that can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in a loss of cellular permeability, an increase in intercellular ion concentration, and a decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles. This process is commonly referred to as photoaging.
[0004] In this sense, in a skin care ritual, consumers apply cosmetic sunscreen compositions to protect the skin and the feeling of the product on the skin is very important.
[0005] Consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetic sunscreen products that fit into their photoprotection routine to protect skin from sun damage.
[0006] In addition, consumers are also looking for sunscreen cosmetic products that include green technology (green ingredients) and do not have a negative impact on the environment.
[0007] Regarding the degree of UV protection of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, this is directly linked to the quantity and type of UV filters it contains. The higher the quantity of UV filters, the higher the degree of UV protection (UVA / UVB). It is difficult to obtain a stable cosmetic sunscreen composition with high quantities of fillers and UV filters.
[0008] Fillers, such as silica, silica silylate, among others, are known in the cosmetic industry to provide anti-oily skin and anti-acne effects in sunscreen compositions. The maximum concentration of fillers in sunscreen compositions is, however, limited, since the high hydrophobic properties make the composition unstable when applying high concentrations.
[0009] There is a need for stable cosmetic sunscreen compositions that have higher concentrations of fillers, in order to increase their anti-oily skin and anti-acne effects, and UV filters. The challenge of incorporating high concentrations of fillers and UV filters into cosmetic sunscreen compositions is not only limited by their hydrophobic nature, but there is also the challenge of formulating stable compositions while preserving satisfactory product properties, such as spreadability, a high sun protection factor and a dry feel on the skin after application.
[0010] In particular, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, one measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, while having a satisfactory sensory perception, i.e. a non-greasy sensation on application.
[0011] In this sense, there is a need to develop new cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising green ingredients that do not have a negative impact on the environment, having high stability, good sensory properties (such as dry touch and matte effect), good solubility of the ingredients, good absorption and spreadability, water resistance and delivering SPF and IR-A protection.
[0012] In particular, it is also a challenge to replace the usual UV filters with green UV filters, while thus maintaining the sensory characteristics. When carrying out such a replacement, it is common to lose certain sensory properties of the cosmetic sunscreen composition such as dry feel, material effect, stability, spreadability and absorption.
[0013] Thus, the inventors of the present invention have overcome the drawbacks of the prior art and have surprisingly obtained a cosmetic sunscreen composition having the desired properties mentioned above comprising: (a) at least one alcohol ester, (b) at least one organic UV filter, (c) at least one organic filter in aqueous phase; and (d) at least one anionic copolymer. Summary of the invention
[0014] The present invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) at least one ester, (b) at least one alcohol ester, (c) at least one organic UV filter, (d) at least one organic filter in aqueous phase, and (e) at least one anionic copolymer. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.
[0015] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0016] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one ester selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, coco caprylate / coco caprylate / caprate, C15-19 alkane and mixtures thereof; b. at least one alcohol ester selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco-caprylate / caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof; c. at least one organic UV filter chosen from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof; d. at least one aqueous-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and mixtures thereof; and e. at least one anionic copolymer selected from crosslinked acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and mixtures thereof.
[0017] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one ester is present in the range of about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 1.25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 1.5% to about 2.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alcohol ester is present in the range of about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 1.25% to about 5.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 1.5% to about 2.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0019] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one organic UV filter is present in the range of about 5.0% to about 20.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.1% to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.2% to about 2.4%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0020] In one embodiment, the at least one aqueous-phase organic filter is present in the range of about 0.01% to about 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of about 0.0% to about 4.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.0% to about 3.0%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0021] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one anionic copolymer is present in the range of about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 3.0%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.5% to about 2.5%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 and preferably 40.
[0023] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional sunscreens, perfume / fragrance, preservatives, solvents, active compounds, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, a buffer, a masking agent, and mixtures thereof.
[0024] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion and can be used as a daily sunscreen product.
[0025] In another embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of a product as a daily sunscreen product.
[0026] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is free of inorganic filters.
[0027] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention does not comprise organic filters chosen from octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.
[0028] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may comprise pigment(s).
[0029] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention does not comprise physical filters and the preservative phenoxyethanol. TERMS
[0030] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
[0031] The terms “a”, “an”, “the” and “the” are understood to include the plural as well as the singular.
[0032] All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc.
[0033] As used herein, the term "at least" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0034] Except in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within + / - 5% of the number indicated.
[0035] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate sub-ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc. SOLVENTS
[0036] In addition to the essential alcohol esters used in the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention, suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, water, alcohols, glycols, and polyols such as glycerin, water, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and mixtures thereof. ORGANIC UV FILTERS
[0037] In addition to the essential organic UV filters of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional organic UV filters. Aqueous phase organic filter
[0038] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one organic filter in aqueous phase chosen from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol. Additional organic UV filters
[0039] The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one additional UV filter chosen from organic UV filters. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
[0040] The organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.
[0041] The organic UV filter can be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
[0042] The organic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screen polymers and screen silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and its derivatives; rutin and its derivatives; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and its derivatives; quinic acid and its derivatives; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Examples of organic UV filter(s) include those indicated below under their INCI names, and their mixtures. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the brand name “Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the brand “Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. Salicylic compounds: glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer. Camphor compounds, in particular benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the brand name “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SW” by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SW” by Chimex. Benzophenone Compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul 400” by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the brand name “Uvinul M40” by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxybenzophenonesulfonic acid), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul MS40” by BASF; benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenone); marketed under the brand name “Helisorb 11” by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the brand name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (disodium dihydroxydimethoxybenzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul DS-49” by BASF; and benzophenone-12, and 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINUL A+ by BASF).[3,[3-Diphenylacrylate] compounds: Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the brand name “Uvinul N35” by BASF. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the brand name “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear, and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and . disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and US Patent No. 2,463,264. Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the trademark “Escalol 507” by ISP, glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the trademark “Uvinul P25” by BASF.Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] sold in solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB / 200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] sold in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB / 100" by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in US Patent Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197 26 184 and EP-893 119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane, sold under the trademark " Silatrizole » by Rhodia Chimie or - « Mexoryl XL » by L'Oréal. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the brand name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. Screen polymers and screen silicones: the silicones described in WO 93 / 04665.Dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene: The dimers described in DE-19855649. 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene. .
[0044] Dans certains modes de réalisation, il est souhaitable que le(s) filtre(s) UV organique(s) soi(en)t choisi(s) dans le groupe consistant en : ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxyb enzoyl)benzoate, 1 ,r-( 1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[ 1 - [2- [4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate)-6- [(3-{ 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l- [(trimethylsilyloxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15,dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalma lonate, l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l, (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. ANIONIC COPOLYMER
[0045] In addition to the essential anionic copolymers of the present invention, suitable additional anionic copolymers may be used.
[0046] Anionic copolymers may be polymers with anionic groups distributed along the polymer backbone. The anionic groups, which may include carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, nitrate, or other negatively charged or ionizable moieties, may be arranged on pendant groups of the backbone or may be incorporated into the backbone itself.
[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the anionic copolymers are chosen from crosslinked acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer.
[0048] The anionic copolymers may comprise at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (Ci0-C30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
[0049] In certain non-limiting examples of embodiments, the copolymers are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of: 1. at least one monomer of formula (I):
[0050] wherein Ri is selected from H or CH3 or C2H5, providing monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid, and 1. at least one (Ci0-C30) alkyl ester monomer of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (II):
[0051] Non-limiting examples of (Ci0-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are, for example, chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] In addition, crosslinked polymers may be selected according to other exemplary embodiments. For example, these polymers may be selected from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: 1. acrylic acid, 2. an ester of formula (II) described above, in which R2 is chosen from H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and 3. a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, ethylene glycol (poly)dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.Anionic copolymers useful herein include, for example: polyacrylic acid; polymethacrylic acid; carboxyvinyl polymer; acrylate copolymers such as acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylic acid / vinyl ester / nonyl isodecanoate acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, and acrylate / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer; sulfonate polymers such as polysulfonic acid, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid, and copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid; carboxymethylcellulose; carboxy guar gum; copolymers of ethylene and maleic acid; and silicone acrylate polymer.In some cases, anionic copolymers include, for example, carbomer and CARBOPOL 980; sodium carboxymethylcellulose such as the CMC range; and acrylate copolymer such as Capigel; . acrylate copolymer such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1 as an aqueous dispersion, and acrylate-4 crosslinked polymer such as CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 as an aqueous dispersion.
[0053] In one embodiment, the anionic copolymer of the invention is a carbomer such as CARBOPOL 980. An example of non-ionic polymers could be as follows: i. hydroxyethylcellulose, for example the product NATROSOL 250 HHR PC or NATROSOL 250 HHR CS; ii. celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples which may be cited include:
[0054] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least a fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for example the product NATROSOL Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls), or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100; methyl hydroxyethylcellulose; methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, known as the product STRUCTURE CEL 8000 M; or hydroxypropyl cellulose, known as the product KLUCEL MF PHARM HYDROXYPROPYLCELLULOSOSE;
[0055] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl ether groups polyalkylene glycol, such as Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol ether (15); or i. hydroxypropyl guars such as hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain), and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain). ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
[0056] In addition to the essential components described above, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen in particular from a perfume / fragrance, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, active ingredients, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0057] The person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, compromised by the envisaged addition.
[0058] The additional ingredients may represent from 0.1% to 50%, such as from 0.1% to 30% or such as from 0.1% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0059] By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples. Example A
[0060] Suitable compositions according to the present invention are as in Inventive Examples 1 to 15, as follows:
[0061] [Table 1]
[0062] Table 1 - Compositions according to the present invention: Function Ingredient Inventive Composition Ex. 1 (% by weight) Fatty compounds Isopropyl myristate 8.0 - 12.0 Isononyl isononanoate Diisopropyl sebacate Stearyl alcohol Solvent Butylene glycol 4.0 - 7.0 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Glycerin Caprylyl Glycol Pentylene Glycol Water QS Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 9.0-13.0 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Meth oxyphenyl triazine Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Drometrizole Trisiloxane Surfactant Stearic Acid 2.0-5.0 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Polymer Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 1.0-3.5 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate / VP Copolymer Others Phenoxyethanol 0.0 - 5.0 Chlorphenesin Fragrance Niacinamide Tocopherol Salicylic Acid Maltodextrin (and) Bixa orellana seed extract Thermal water Active compound Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.0 - 5.0 Triethanolamine Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate Sarcosine Vitreoscilla ferment Citric acid Mannose Zinc pca Fillers Silica 0.1-5.0 Silica silylate Example B Sensory testing
[0063] A sensory test was carried out with six volunteers (Caucasians and Africans) with dry and oily skin to evaluate the differences in the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (Example 2) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Example 7 of the prior art). Inventive Example 2
[0064] [Tables2] Function Ingredient % Fatty Compounds Isopropyl Myristate 10.8 Isononyl Isononanoate Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 63.54 Glycerin Caprylyl Glycol Pentylene Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl triazone 12.3 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triaz ine Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hex yl benzoate Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid Surfactant Stearic acid 4.10 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate Potassium cetyl phosphate Poloxamer 338 Polymer Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 2.75 Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer Other Chlorphenesin 0.69 Tocopherol Thermal spring water Active compound Triethanolamine 2.12 Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate Citric acid Fillers Silica 3,7 Silica Silylate Example 7 of the prior art
[0065] [Tables3] Function Ingredient % Fatty Compounds Isopropyl Myristate 7.4 Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent Glycerin 55.79 Caprylyl Glycol Pentylene Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 17.8 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triaz ine Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Titanium Dioxide Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid Octocrylene Homosalate Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutyl Phenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate Surfactant Stearic Acid 4.6 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Polymer Aluminum Octenylsuccinate and starch 2.75 Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer Others Phenoxyethanol 5.0 Tocopherol Thermal spring water Caprylyl methicone Active ingredient Disodium EDTA 1.56 Triethanolamine Fillers Silica 5.1 Silica silylate
[0066] The attributes evaluated were spreadability, absorption, dry feel, skin finish, white effect.
[0067] The phototype of the volunteers was a dark phototype for the analysis of the white effect.
[0068] Skin types were all types (dry, combination and oily).
[0069] The comparison protocol carried out was as follows:
[0070] 1- Cleansing the face with cotton and micellar water;
[0071] 2- Application of thermal water and drying with a dry handkerchief;
[0072] 3- Application on half of the face of 0.30 g of each formula;
[0073] 4- Duration 1 hour.
[0074] It was concluded that the composition according to the present invention has faster absorption, waxy texture and exclusion, however formula 940645 4 is more slippery and with more marks and white film and dry touch. It is important to mention that these are slight differences between the formulas. Example C Sensory testing
[0075] A sensory test was carried out with six volunteers (Caucasians and Africans) with oily skin to evaluate the differences in the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (inventive example 3) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Example 8 of the prior art). Inventive Example 3
[0076] [Tables4] Function Ingredient % Fatty Compounds Isopropyl Myristate 10.80 Isononyl Isononanoate Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 58.48 Glycerin Caprylyl Glycol Pentylene Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 12.30 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Surfactant Stearic Acid 4.10 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Polymer Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.75 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer Other Chlorphenesin 4.64 Niacinamide Tocopherol Maltodextrin (and) Bixa orellana seed extract Thermal water Active compound Triethanolamine 3.03 Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate Vitreoscilla ferment Citric acid Mannose Zinc pca Fillers Silica 3.9 Silica silylate Example 8 of the prior art
[0077] [Tables5] Function Ingredient % Fatty Compounds Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate 8.0 Cetyl Alcohol Diisopropyl Sebacate Solvent Alcohol Denat. 60.83 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Caprylyl Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 13.0 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid Octocrylene Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate Drometrizole Trisiloxane Surfactant Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disodium Disulfate (and) Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 3.0 Polymer Xanthan Gum 4.95 Zea Mays (Corn) Starch Poly(C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate Other Phenoxyethanol 3.1 Fragrance Thermal water Active compound Triethanolamine 0.61 Disodium EDTA Sodium hyaluronate Zinc gluconate Fillers Silica (and) titanium dioxide 6.51 Perlite Silica silylate
[0078] The attributes evaluated were spreadability, absorption, dry feel, skin finish, white effect.
[0079] The phototype of the volunteers was a dark phototype for the analysis of the white effect.
[0080] The comparison protocol carried out was as follows:
[0081] 1- Cleansing the face with cotton and micellar water;
[0082] 2- Application of thermal water and drying with a dry handkerchief;
[0083] 3- Application on half of the face of 0.30 g of each formula;
[0084] 4- Duration 1 hour.
[0085] It was concluded that the composition according to the present invention has a more slippery, easy to apply, shiny and waxy texture and a more homogeneous and uniform film and that the current version showed faster absorption, white marks and a film, accumulated in expression lines and pores, a powdery appearance and pilling were observed in all volunteers during application. Example D Sensory testing
[0086] A sensory test was carried out with six volunteers (Phototype IV) with combination to oily skin to evaluate the differences in the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the present invention (inventive example 4) and the comparative composition comprising octocrylene (Example 9 of the prior art). Inventive Example 4
[0087] [Tableauxô] Function Ingredient % Fatty Compounds Isopropyl Myristate 10.8 Isononyl Isononanoate Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 62.44 Glycerin Caprylyl Glycol Pentylene Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 12.3 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Surfactant Stearic Acid 4.10 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Polymer Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.75 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer Other Tocopherol 0.39 Thermal water Active compound Triethanolamine 2,12 Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate Citric acid Fillers Silica 5,1 Silica silylate Example 9 of the prior art
[0088] [Tables?] Function Ingredient % Fatty Compounds Isopropyl Myristate 7.4 Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent Glycerin 55.79 Caprylyl Glycol Pentylene Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 17.8 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Titanium Dioxide Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid Octocrylene Homosalate Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate Surfactant Stearic Acid 4.6 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Polymer Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.75 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer Others Phenoxyethanol 5.0 Tocopherol Thermal Spring Water Caprylyl Methicone Active Compound Disodium Edta 1.56 Triethanolamine Fillers Silica 5.1
[0089] The attributes evaluated were spreadability, absorption, dry feel, skin finish, white effect.
[0090] The phototype of the volunteers was a dark phototype for the analysis of the white effect.
[0091] The comparison protocol carried out was as follows:
[0092] 1- Cleansing the face with cotton and micellar water;
[0093] 2- Application of thermal water and drying with a dry handkerchief;
[0094] 3- Application on half of the face of 0.30 g of each formula;
[0095] 4- Duration 1 hour.
[0096] It was concluded that the composition according to the present invention showed similar, but somewhat faster sensory absorption in the present invention, the formulas showed slight differences in texture, application and staying power, that formula 940645 4 was thicker, smoother and shinier than the invention. Example E FPS Test
[0097] The objective of this test was to determine the spectral photostability (single dose of UV), the in vitro UVA protection factor (SP-UVA) and the critical wavelength of the sample: 941502 1 SPF 30.
[0098] On four PMMA plates with a textured surface, the sample or samples under test were applied, in an amount of approximately 1.3 mg / cm2, by spreading them manually with a presaturated fingertip, without using it, until a visually uniform film was obtained.
[0099] The weighing was carried out directly on the plate positioned on a scale, by depositing the product in small quantities spread over the entire surface of the plate, for a total application surface of 25 cm2.
[0100] The spreading was carried out in two stages: first, the product was spread rapidly with circular movements without pressure until the entire plate was filled with product; then, the film was homogenized, using straight movements and moderate pressure, until a uniform film was formed.
[0101] The sample plate was allowed to stand for at least 30 minutes away from light, inside a temperature-controlled drying chamber (between 27.0°C and 29.1°C), to dry the product and facilitate the formation of a homogeneous film.
[0102] It was concluded that:
[0103] • The in vitro UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the test product is of 10.2.
[0104] • The FP-UVA of the test product is greater than 1 / 3 of the SPF
[0105] • The SPF of the product showed a spectral photostability level of 79.1%, it can therefore be considered moderately photostable compared to SPF.
[0106] • The FP-UVA of the product showed a spectral photostability level of 79.7%, it can therefore be considered moderately photostable compared to FP-UVA.
[0107] • The critical wavelength is 377 nm. Example F Relationship between loads and FPS
[0108] The objective of this test was to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) following the ISO 24444 methodology and to understand whether fillers can have an impact on the SPF results. The test continues with two inventives (examples 5 and 6) while the difference is only in the speed of the fillers. Inventive Example 5
[0109] [Tables8] Function Ingredient % Fatty Compounds Isopropyl Myristate 10.8 Isononyl Isononanoate Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent Butylene Glycol 64.95 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Glycerin Caprylyl Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 12,3 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Surfactant Stearic Acid 4,10 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Polymer Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2,75 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer Other Tocopherol 0,37 Thermal Spring Water Active Compound Triethanolamine 2,12 Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Citric Acid Fillers Silica 2,6 Silica silylate Inventive Example 6
[0110] [Tables9] Function Ingredient % Fatty Compounds Isopropyl Myristate 10.8 Isononyl Isononanoate Diisopropyl Sebacate Stearyl Alcohol Solvent Butylene Glycol 62.05 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Glycerin Caprylyl Glycol Water Sunscreen Ethylhexyl Triazone 12.3 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Surfactant Stearic Acid 4.10 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Poloxamer 338 Polymer Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.75 Acrylates / Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer C10-30 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer Others Tocopherol 0.37 Thermal water Active compound Triethanolamine 2.12 Hydroxyacetophenone Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate Citric acid Fillers Silica 5.5 [YES] • For inventive example 5, with the lowest concentration of fillers, the average SPF was 37.0 with the confidence interval (c) of 5.5. The result is an SPF of 31.5.
[0112] • For inventive example 6, with the highest concentration of fillers, the FPS mean was 32.4 with the confidence interval (c) of 7.1. The result is an FPS of 25.3.
[0113] It was concluded that in the composition according to the present inventions the change of fillers can bring different results in the SPF, which can be explained by the change in the film formation. Example G
[0114] Manufacturing process of cosmetic sunscreen composition
[0115] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may be prepared by any conventional method of manufacturing a composition in emulsion form.
[0116] In particular, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may be prepared by a process comprising the following steps:
[0117] (A): the oily phase comprising the oily raw materials, including (a) the Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and (c) a UV filter system, is mixed and heated to 75°C;
[0118] (B): the aqueous phase comprising the aqueous raw materials is mixed until completely homogenized;
[0119] (C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oily phase of step (A), followed by mixing the mixture;
[0120] (D): the other ingredients are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (C) and mixed until homogeneous, at a temperature below 30°C; and
[0121] (E): the charges are added.
Claims
Claims
1. A cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising: (a) at least one ester selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, coco caprylate / coco caprylate / caprate, C15-19 alkane and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one alcohol ester selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco-caprylate / caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof; (c) at least one organic UV filter chosen from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof;(d) at least one aqueous-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and mixtures thereof; and (e) at least one anionic copolymer selected from crosslinked acrylate / Cio-3o alkyl acrylate polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, and mixtures thereof.;
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one ester is present in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
3. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one alcohol ester is present in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one organic UV filter is present in the range of 5.0% to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one aqueous-phase organic filter is present in the range of 0.01% to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one anionic copolymer is present in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to claim 1, in which it is free of inorganic filters.
8. Composition according to claim 1, in which it is free of organic filters chosen from octocrylene, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.
9. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from additional UV filters, perfume / fragrance, preservatives, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments, and combinations thereof.
10. A cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising: (a) 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one ester selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, coco caprylate / coco caprylate / caprate, C15-19 alkane and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one alcohol ester selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco-caprylate / caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) 5.0% to 20.0% by weight of at least one organic UV filter selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition;(c) 0.01% to 8.0% by weight of at least one aqueous-phase organic filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (d) 0.1% to 10% of at least one anionic copolymer selected from crosslinked acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.;
Citation Information
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