Cosmetic composition comprising a glycolipid, a hydroxyacetophenone, an anionic surfactant, a specific amphoteric surfactant, an associative polymer, and a cationic non-associative polysaccharide

Abstract

Title: Cosmetic composition comprising a glycolipid, a hydroxyacetophenone, an anionic surfactant, an associative polymer, an amphoteric surfactant and a specific polysaccharide The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one glycolipid; b) at least one hydroxyacetophenone; c) at least one anionic surfactant other than glycolipids; d) at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and mixtures thereof; e) at least one associative polymer; and f) at least one cationic non-associative polysaccharide other than glycolipids.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a glycolipid, a hydroxyacetophenone, an anionic surfactant, an associative polymer, an amphoteric surfactant and a specific polysaccharide

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one hydroxyacetophenone, at least one anionic surfactant different from the glycolipids, at least one specific amphoteric surfactant, at least one associative polymer, and at least one cationic non-associative polysaccharide different from the glycolipids. Technical field

[0002] For washing keratin materials, such as skin and hair, the use of detergent cosmetic compositions of the shampoo or shower gel type, or even cosmetic cleansers, essentially based on surfactants, is common. These compositions are generally applied to the keratin materials, preferably wet, and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands or a washcloth allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of the various dirt initially present on the hair or skin.

[0003] The most common cosmetic compositions for washing keratin materials often contain anionic surfactants of the sulfate type, which are very good detergent surfactants, but can prove to be not very respectful of the keratin materials to be washed, in particular by having a drying effect on said materials, or even by negatively impacting the conditioning of the hair or skin. Indeed, these surfactants can alter, over time, the cosmetic characteristics of the hair or skin, which leads to the need to also use conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicones or non-silicone oils. Sulfate surfactants can also cause tolerance problems in certain sensitive consumers, particularly at the level of the skin and / or eyes (tingling, tightness).

[0004] However, cosmetic washing compositions free from sulfate surfactants must generally comprise significant quantities of other surfactants, in order to obtain the desired abundance and quality of foam, but which can have an impact on the qualities of use of the shampoo and on the stability of the compositions during storage.

[0005] Thus, there is a need to have a composition exhibiting good stability over time, while making it possible to obtain excellent properties. cosmetics, particularly in terms of smoothness and coating of treated hair.

[0006] It has been surprisingly discovered that a particular cosmetic composition makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above. Statement of the invention

[0007] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0008] a) at least one glycolipid;

[0009] b) at least one hydroxyacetophenone;

[0010] c) at least one anionic surfactant different from glycolipids;

[0011] d) at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from alkyl betaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines and mixtures thereof;

[0012] e) at least one associative polymer; and

[0013] f) at least one cationic non-associative polysaccharide different from glycolipids.

[0014] The cosmetic composition according to the invention has good stability over time, in particular after two months of storage. In addition, thanks to the cosmetic composition according to the invention, excellent cosmetic properties are obtained, in particular in terms of smooth feel and coating.

[0015] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain optimal detergent and foaming properties without it being necessary to incorporate sulfated surfactants, in particular sulfated anionic surfactants.

[0016] The composition according to the invention also has good rheological properties, in particular a satisfactory viscosity without impacting the foaming and cosmetic properties.

[0017] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition according to the invention.

[0018] The invention also relates to the use of the above composition for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the cleaning and / or washing, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0019] The expression “at least one” means one or more.

[0020] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Glycolipid

[0022] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one glycolipid.

[0023] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three glycolipids.

[0024] If two or more glycolipids are used, they may be the same or different.

[0025] The term “glycolipid” means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more carbohydrate compounds are attached.

[0026] Advantageously, the glycolipid(s) a) are chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof, preferably from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, more preferably from rhamnolipids.

[0027] The glycolipid(s) may be glucolipids, which comprise a glucose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (I):

[0028] in which:

[0029] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0030] - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 4, and

[0031] - q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0032] Glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes Sp.MMl.

[0033] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his Ph.D. (thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch 46C 197-203). Glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth via solvent extraction using ethyl ether or a mixture of dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol.

[0034] The glycolipid(s) may be sophorolipids, which comprise a sophorose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (II):

[0035] in which:

[0036] - R3 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a acetyl group,

[0037] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl,

[0038] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0039] provided that the total number of carbon atoms in the R5 and R6 groups does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18,

[0040] - R7 represents a hydrogen atom,

[0041] - R8 represents a hydroxy OH group,

[0042] or R7 and R8 together form a lactone ring.

[0043] The sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the invention either in the open-chain free acid form, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy OH group, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8 as indicated in formula (III): (III),

[0044] in which:

[0045] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above,

[0046] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0047] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0048] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in AP Tulloch, J.F.T. Spencer and P.A.J. Gorin, Can. J Chem (1962) 40 1326 and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984) 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones, which may be used as mixtures, or the required form may be isolated.

[0049] As sophorolipids for example, one can use the one sold under the name Sopholiances from Givaudan and the one sold under the name BioToLife from BASF.

[0050] The glycolipid(s) may be trehalolipids, which comprise a trehalose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (IV): i ÇwQ !

[0051] in which R9, R10 and R11 represent, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0052] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation methods are provided by Ishigami et al. (1987) J. Jpn Oil Chem Soc 36 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch 46C 197-203; and Passeri et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch 46C 204-209.

[0053] The glycolipid(s) may be cellobiose lipids, which comprise a cellobiose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (V): . (V), ,x

[0054] in which:

[0055] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0056] - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having 9 with 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,

[0057] - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0058] - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 4 with 16 carbon atoms.

[0059] Lipid cellobioses can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation methods are provided by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986) Biotech Letts 8 757-762.

[0060] The glycolipid(s) may be rhamnolipids.

[0061] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0062] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid), linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxy] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.

[0063] Preferably, the rhamnolopids are chosen from mono- and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the following formula (VI):

[0064] in which:

[0065] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0066] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0067] - Ri and R2, independently of each other, represent hydrocarbon radicals, identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or not, substituted or not substituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical,

[0068] as well as their salts, their solvates, and their optical isomers.

[0069] Thus, when n is equal to zero, formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.

[0070] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0072] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0073] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0074] - Ri and R2, independently of each other, represent hydrocarbon radicals, identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or not, substituted or not substituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical, as well as their salts, their solvates, and their optical isomers.

[0075] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration, and is preferably in alpha configuration.

[0076] In the context of the invention:

[0077] - the salts of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylates with an organic or inorganic cation, and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium,

[0078] - the solvated forms of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids are preferably in the form of R-enantiomers, and

[0079] - the term “alkyl” radical designates a saturated, linear or aliphatic group branched; for example a C1-C2o-alkyl group having a hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl.

[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0081] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0082] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0083] - Ri and R2, identical or different, are chosen from pentenyl radicals, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3 with o denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15, and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0084] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0085] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0086] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0087] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of the following formula (VII):

[0088] in which:

[0089] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, preferably m is equal to 1,

[0090] - n is equal to 1,

[0091] - Ri is a radical -(CH2)P-CH3, with p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of preference from 4 to 12,

[0092] - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, with q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of preference from 4 to 12,

[0093] as well as their salts, their solvates, and their optical isomers.

[0094] By way of illustration and non-limiting example of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of the compounds of formula Di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below.

[0095] The formula Di-RL-CXCY is an alternative writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (Di-RL) functionalized by two radicals RI and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[0096] [Tables 1] Compounds Di-RL-CXCY P q 1 DiRL-C8C8 4 4 2 DiRL-C8C10 4 6 3 DiRL-C10C8 6 4 4 DiRL-ClOCIO 6 6 5 DiRL-C10C12 6 8 6 DiRL-C12C10 8 6 7 DiRL-C12C12 8 8 8 DiRL-C12C14 8 10 9 DiRL-C14C12 10 8 10 DiRL-C14C14 10 10 11 DiRL-C14C16 10 12 12 DiRL-C16C14 12 10 13 DiRL-C16C16 12 12

[0097] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0098] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0100] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3 with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12 and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl, preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII), as defined previously, and more preferably chosen from:

[0102] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1,

[0103] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal at 6, q is equal to 8, and

[0104] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3 with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12 and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl, and preferably RI is a radical -(CH 2)6CH3 and R2 is a nonenyl radical.

[0105] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from:

[0106] - at least 50% by weight, and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids,

[0107] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and n and m are equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and

[0108] - from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0109] Rhamnolipids are conventionally prepared by methods known to those skilled in the art from producing bacteria, such as Pseudomonas strains.

[0110] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and H.P. Kleber in Adv Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986) 33, 53-90 and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. R.M. Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0111] As rhamnolipids, one can use the one sold under the name Rheance One by the company Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids).

[0112] Advantageously, the total content of the glycolipid(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Advantageously, the total content of the rhamnolipid(s) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxyacetophenone

[0114] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises b) at least one hydroxyacetophenone.

[0115] As examples of preferred hydroxyacetophenones according to the invention, mention may be made of p-hydroxyacetophenone (or 4-hydroxy acetophenone), 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, alpha hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Preferably, the hydroxyacetophenone is p-hydroxyacetophenone.

[0117] Advantageously, the total content of the hydroxyacetophenone(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Preferably, the content of p-hydroxyacetophenone ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Anionic surfactant

[0119] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises c) at least one anionic surfactant, other than glycolipids.

[0120] Anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant containing only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. Anionic surfactants are non-silicone.

[0121] In the present description, an entity is described as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0122] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) are different from the sulfate anionic surfactants.

[0123] The term "sulfate anionic surfactant" or "sulfated anionic surfactant" within the meaning of the present invention means an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), and which may optionally also comprise one or more other functions derived from acids, such as carboxylic acid or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO-), sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3-) and / or phosphate functions.

[0124] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition is completely free of sulfated anionic surfactants.

[0125] The anionic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from sulfonate surfactants, carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants and mixtures thereof. It is of course possible to use a mixture of these surfactants.

[0126] It is understood in this description that:

[0127] - the carboxylate (or carboxylic) anionic surfactants comprise at least a carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-), but do not include a sulfonate function or a sulfate function;

[0128] - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-), and may include one or more carboxylate functions, but do not include a sulfate function.

[0129] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).

[0130] They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids, alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids, fatty acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0131] By “fatty acids” is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid, in particular an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, different from glycolipids.

[0132] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of acids can also be used polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

[0133] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO,

[0134] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic acids which may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0135] Rl'-(OC2H4)n'-OCH2COOA (1)

[0136] in which:

[0137] - RI' represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, a radical R2'CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2' denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical in C9-C21; preferably RI' is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;

[0138] - n' is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, of preference from 2 to 10,

[0139] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine residue or triethanolamine.

[0140] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) may also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different RI' groups.

[0141] The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ethercarboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0142] - RI' denotes a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular C10- C16, or even C12-C14, or an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical;

[0143] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0144] - n' varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0145] Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which RI' denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

[0146] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0147] - fatty acids, in particular C8-C30, or even C10-C30, better still C12-C22, such as than coconut acid;

[0148] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stea- roylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0149] - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as pal- mitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0150] - acyllactylates, particularly C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe- noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0151] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0152] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercar- carboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0153] - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0154] in particular in acid form or in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0155] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3). They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0156] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28, more preferably from 14 to 24, even more preferably from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0157] These compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0158] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in a mixture:

[0159] - C6-C24 alpha-olefinsulfonates, preferably C12-C20;

[0160] - C6-C24, preferably C12-C20, alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;

[0161] - C6-C24, preferably C12-C20, alkyl ethersulfosuccinates;

[0162] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates;

[0163] - N-acyltaurates, preferably N-acyl N-methyltaurates;

[0164] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0165] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0166] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di-, and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di-, or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0167] Preferably, the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.

[0168] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) c) other than the glycolipids are chosen from sulfonate anionic surfactants, preferably from alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28, more preferably from 14 to 24, even more preferably from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; more preferably among N-acyltaurates, their salts and their mixtures.

[0169] The N-acyltaurates are preferably chosen from N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate.

[0170] Advantageously, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) c) other than the glycolipids ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Advantageously, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) c), other than glycolipids, chosen from N-acyltaurates ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) c) other than the glycolipids is less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Specific amphoteric surfactant

[0173] As indicated previously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises d) at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines and their mixtures.

[0174] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) d) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) d) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0176] Even more preferably, the amphoteric surfactant d) is cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0177] Advantageously, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) d) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] Advantageously, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) d) chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Advantageously, the total content of cocamidopropylbetaine ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymer

[0180] As indicated previously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises e) at least one associative polymer.

[0181] “Associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0182] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0183] By “hydrophobic group” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0184] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0185] The associative polymers can be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric in nature.

[0186] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.

[0187] Among the associative polymers of anionic type, we can cite:

[0188] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one ether unit of fatty chain allyl, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly still by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0189] Among these anionic associative polymers, particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

[0190] Among the latter, particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0191] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of carboxylic acid type olefinically unsaturated, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl ester (C10-C30) type.

[0192] Alkyl esters (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0193] Anionic polymers of this type are for example described and prepared, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

[0194] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above, will be used more particularly.

[0195] Among the above polymers, the products sold by the company GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name COATEX SX® are particularly preferred according to the present invention.

[0196] The product sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade name CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20 POLYMER can also be used.

[0197] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the ISP Company.

[0198] - (c) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.

[0199] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

[0200] i) about 20 to 70% by weight of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A],

[0201] ii) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturated monomer different from [A],

[0202] iii) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,

[0203] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer (40 EO) in 25% aqueous dispersion.

[0204] - (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid ester of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0205] Advantageously, the associative polymer(s) e) are chosen from anionic associative polymers, preferably from acrylic anionic associative polymers.

[0206] Among the acrylic anionic associative polymers, mention may be made of copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0207] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and of C1-C4 alcohol.

[0208] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by the company ROHM and HAAS.

[0209] Advantageously, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a fatty alcohol.

[0210] More preferably, the compound with the INCI name “Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer” is used.

[0211] Advantageously, the total content of the associative polymer(s) e) ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0212] Advantageously, the total content of the associative polymer(s) e), chosen from anionic associative polymers ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic non-associative polysaccharide

[0213] As indicated previously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises f) at least one cationic non-associative polysaccharide other than glycolipids.

[0214] In particular, the non-associative polysaccharides do not comprise a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0215] Among the cationic non-associative polysaccharides, mention may be made of celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0216] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597, and mention may be made of the polymers marketed under the name “UCARE POLYMER JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0217] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0218] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US3589578 and US4031307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used.

[0219] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the number of hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are connected by cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, in particular trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups may be mentioned. Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0220] In particular, mention may be made of the products with the INCI name “HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE” and “GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR Cl62 by the company Solvay.

[0221] Among the cationic non-associative polysaccharides, different from glycolipids, which may be used, mention may also be made of the cationic derivatives of cassia gum, in particular those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product with the INCI name “CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”.

[0222] Preferably, the cationic non-associative polysaccharides other than glycolipids which may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums.

[0223] Preferably, the cationic non-associative polysaccharides f) other than glycolipids are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures, more preferably from cationic guar gums, and their mixtures.

[0224] Advantageously, the total content of the cationic non-associative polysaccharide(s) f), other than glycolipids, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0225] Advantageously, the total content of the cationic non-associative polysaccharide(s) f), other than glycolipids, chosen from cationic guar gums ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Weight ratio

[0226] The weight ratio between the total content of compound(s) a) and the total content of compound(s) b) is preferably greater than or equal to 1.

[0227] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of the compound(s) a) and the total content of the compound(s) b) ranges from 1 to 10, preferably from 1.1 to 8, more preferably from 1.2 to 5, even more preferably from 1.3 to 4, better from 1.3 to 2.

[0228] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of the compound(s) a) chosen from rhamnolipids and the total content of the compound(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.1 to 8, even more preferably from 1.2 to 5, better still from 1.3 to 4, even better still from 1.3 to 2. Non-ionic surfactant

[0229] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise g) at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0230] The non-ionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Ci_2o)phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0231] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylenated having from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0232] Mention may also be made of non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, in particular represented by the following general formula:

[0233] R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0234] in which:

[0235] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0236] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0237] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0238] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0239] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0240] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0241] - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0242] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0243] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0244] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0245] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0246] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0247] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(poly)glucosides, preferably from C8 / C16 alkyl-(poly)glucosides.

[0248] Particularly preferred are C8 / C16-alkyl-(poly)glucosides 1,4, and in particular decylglucosides, caprylyl / capryl glucosides, or coco glucoside.

[0249] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0250] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant g), preferably chosen from alkyl(poly)glucosides, more preferably from C8 / C16 alkyl-(poly)glucosides.

[0251] Advantageously, the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) g), when present, ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] Advantageously, the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) g) chosen from alkyl(poly)glucosides ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0253] Advantageously, the total content of all the surfactants, represented by the anionic surfactant(s) c) different from the glycolipids, the amphoteric surfactant(s) d) and optionally at least one additional surfactant different from the or of surfactants c) and d) and glycolipids, ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-associative non-cationic polysaccharide

[0254] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise h) at least one non-associative non-cationic polysaccharide other than glycolipids.

[0255] Preferably, the non-associative non-cationic polysaccharide(s) h) other than glycolipids are chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides other than glycolipids.

[0256] The non-ionic non-associative polysaccharides other than glycolipids are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, scleroglucan and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0257] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, temperature can be cited; and as a chemical treatment, esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation reactions can be cited, insofar as these treatments make it possible to produce polymers which are non-ionic.

[0258] As galactomannans which may be used, mention may be made of non-ionic guar gums which may be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0259] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0260] The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0261] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0262] The starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches. The starches may be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0263] The starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch such as corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0264] Non-ionic non-associative polysaccharides other than glycolipids may also be cellulosic polymers not comprising a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0265] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; the cellulosic polymers may be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or non-ionic cellulose derivatives.

[0266] Thus, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester-ethers.

[0267] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

[0268] Scleroglucan is a non-ionic branched homopolysaccharide, consisting of [3-D glucan units. The molecules consist of a main linear chain formed of D-glucose units linked by [3(1,3) bonds and one in three of which is linked to a side D-glucose unit by a [3(1,6) bond:

[0269] These polysaccharides are obtained by fermentation of a medium based on sugar and mineral salts, under the action of a Sclerotium-type microorganism, such as Sclerotium glucanium and Sclerotium rolfsii. A more complete description of scleroglucans and their preparation can be found in document US 3,301,848.

[0270] Preferably, the scleroglucan is chosen from sclerotium gum.

[0271] Scleroglucan is for example sold under the name AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER, or under the name ACTIGUM™ CS by the company Cargill. Such compounds have the INCI name “Sclerotium gum”.

[0272] As other non-associative non-cationic polysaccharides according to the invention, different from glycolipids, mention may also be made of xanthan, gum arabic and modified starch (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate).

[0273] Preferably, the non-ionic non-associative polysaccharides other than glycolipids are chosen from celluloses, starches, galactomannans, scleroglucan and their mixtures, even more preferably scleroglucan.

[0274] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-associative non-cationic polysaccharide h) different from glycolipids, preferably chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides different from glycolipids, more preferably from celluloses, starches, galactomannans, scleroglucan and their mixtures, even more preferably scleroglucan.

[0275] According to another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of non-associative non-cationic polysaccharide h) other than glycolipids.

[0276] Advantageously, the total content of the non-associative non-cationic polysaccharide(s) h), other than the glycolipids, when present, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0277] Preferably, the total content of the non-ionic non-associative polysaccharide(s) other than glycolipids, when present, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Pyridine derivative

[0278] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise i) at least one compound chosen from pyridine derivatives as well as their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0279] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pyridine derivative” is understood to mean any compound comprising at least one pyridine ring within the structure of said compound.

[0280] Preferably, the pyridine derivative(s) and its solvates, such as hydrates, are substituted by at least one group chosen from:

[0281] - hydroxy;

[0282] - di(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino;

[0283] - thiol;

[0284] - (thio)carboxy;

[0285] - (thio)amido of formula R4R5N-C(X1)-, with XI representing O, S or NR6, R4, R5 and R6, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group;

[0286] - (thio)urea of ​​formula R7R8N-C(X2)-N(R9)-, with X2 representing O, S or NRw, R7 in Rio, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC 4)alkyl group;

[0287] - (thio)carbonyl of formula Rn-C(X3)-, with X3 representing O or S, and RI 1 representing a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally substituted;

[0288] preferably amido of formula R^N-CCO)-, more preferably NH2-C(O)-.

[0289] Particularly preferably, the pyridine derivative is niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide).

[0290] Niacinamide is also known as nicotinamide.

[0291] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound i) chosen from pyridine derivatives as well as their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures, preferably the pyridine derivative is niacinamide.

[0292] Advantageously, the total content of the compound(s) i) chosen from pyridine derivatives and their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures, when present, ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0293] Advantageously, the total niacinamide content ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0294] When the composition comprises i) at least one pyridine derivative, advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of the compound(s) i) and the sum of the total content of the glycolipid(s) a) and the total content of the hydroxyacetophenone(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.2 to 8, even more preferably from 1.5 to 5, better still from 1.8 to 3. Solvents

[0295] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be aqueous. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is aqueous.

[0296] The water content may range from 30 to 98% by weight, preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 70 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0297] When the composition is aqueous, the pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 2 to 12, preferably from 3 to 9, preferentially from 4 to 8, and better still from 4.5 to 7.5.

[0298] In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.

[0299] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, glycerin, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols, in particular aromatic monoalcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0300] The organic solvents may be present in a total content of between 0.01 and 60% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 50% by weight and more preferably between 0.1 and 45% by weight, even more preferably between 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0301] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

[0302] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickeners other than the polymers previously described, softeners, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers previously described, preservatives, silicones, oils, waxes other than silicones in wax form, and mixtures thereof.

[0303] The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of the composition according to the invention as defined above.

[0304] The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers.

[0305] The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as defined above for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the cleaning and / or washing, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0306] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0307] In the following examples, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Example 1

[0308] Compositions A1 and A2 as described in Table 2 below were prepared.

[0309] [Tables2] Compositions Al (invention) A2 (comparative) Hydroxypropyl guar chloride Hydroxypr opyltrimonium 0.30 0.30 Salicylic acid 0.20 0.20 Coco glucoside 3.1 3.1 Preservative qs qs Glycerin 3.0 3.0 Niacinamide 5.0 5.0 Glycolipid (1)(compound a)) 1.35 1.35 p-hydroxyacetophenone (compound b)) 1.0 1.0 Sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate(2) 0.9 0.9 Sodium chloride 0.6 0.6 Coconut acid 0.1 0.1 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.3 2.3 Acrylates / C10-C30 methacrylate crosspolymer copolymer (3) 1.0 - Hydroxyethylcellulose - 1.0 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0310] (1) Rhamnolipid sold by the company Evonik under the trade name Rheance One,

[0311] (2) sold by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICAL under the name commercial PUREACT WS CONC LO,

[0312] (3) associative polymer sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20 POLYMER commercial. Evaluation of the stability of the compositions

[0313] The stability of compositions A1 and A2 was evaluated 24 hours after their formulation. The appearance, color, odor, pH and viscosity were evaluated.

[0314] Then, the compositions were poured into bottles and stored for 2 months at three different temperatures: 4°C, room temperature and 45°C.

[0315] The stability of the compositions was evaluated after 2 months of storage. The results are summarized in Table 3 below:

[0316] [Tables3] Compositions Al (invention) A2 (comparative) Stability before storage stable unstable Stability after 2 months of storage at 4°C stable unstable Stability after 2 months of storage at room temperature stable unstable Stability after 2 months of storage at 45°C stable unstable

[0317] It was observed that the comparative composition A2 was unstable only 24 hours after formulation, and therefore a fortiori unstable after 2 months of storage, whatever the temperature as indicated above.

[0318] Conversely, the composition Al according to the invention was stable after 24 hours and after 2 months of storage, whatever the temperature as indicated above.

[0319] Thus, the composition Al according to the invention has improved storage stability compared to the comparative composition A2. Example 2

[0320] Compositions B1 and B2 as described in Table 4 below were prepared.

[0321] [Tables4] Compositions B1 (invention) B2 (comparative) Hydroxypropyl guar chloride Hydroxypr opyltrimonium 0.60 0.60 Salicylic acid 0.20 0.20 Coco glucoside 3.1 3.1 Sclerotium gum 0.30 0.30 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.1 0.1 Preservative qs qs Glycerin 3.0 3.0 Niacinamide 5.0 5.0 Glycolipid (1)(compound a)) 1.35 1.35 p-hydroxyacetophenone (compound b)) 1.0 1.0 Sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate(2) 3.0 3.0 Sodium chloride 1.1 1.1 Coconut acid 0.3 0.3 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.3 2.3 Copolymer Acrylates / C10-C30 methacryla te crosspolymer (3) 0.6 - Carbomer - 0.6 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Cosmetic performance

[0322] Each of compositions B1 and B2 was applied to locks of moderately sensitized hair, at a rate of 0.3 g of composition per gram of locks. The locks were then rinsed with water and dried.

[0323] Coating

[0324] The coating performance on dry hair strands as previously prepared was evaluated by 3 experts.

[0325] Performance was assessed in a blind test in which each of the 3 experts assigned a score in the range from 0 (no coating to the touch) to 5 (very present coating) to each of the hair strands.

[0326] To assess the coating property, the expert takes the wick between the thumb and index finger, and moves down from the top of the wick towards the tips and at the same time makes a slight oscillating movement with the thumb to feel the presence of any deposit and any transfer of product onto the fingers.

[0327] The results are collected in Table 5 below:

[0328] [Tables5] Compositions B1 (invention) B2 (comparative) Expert 1 3.0 2.0 Expert 2 3.0 2.0 Expert 3 3.0 2.0 Average 3.0 2.0 Standard deviation 0 0

[0329] It clearly appears that the locks of hair treated with composition B1 according to the invention have a more effective coating to the touch than that of the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition B2.

[0330] Smooth touch

[0331] The smooth feel performance on dry hair strands as previously prepared was evaluated by 3 experts.

[0332] Performance was assessed in a blind test in which each of the 3 experts assigned a score in the range of 0 (presence of a lot of roughness) to 5 (no roughness) to each of the hair strands.

[0333] To assess the smooth touch property, the expert takes the strand at the root and slides it between the fingers to the tips of the strand, the more uniform the touch sensation, the better the smoothness to the touch.

[0334] The results are collected in Table 6 below:

[0335] [Tableauxô] Compositions B1 (invention) B2 (comparative) Expert 1 3.0 2.0 Expert 2 3.0 2.0 Expert 3 3.0 2.0 Mean 3.0 2.0 Standard deviation 0 0

[0336] It clearly appears that the locks of hair treated with composition B1 according to the invention have an improved smooth feel compared to that of the locks of hair treated with comparative composition B2.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one glycolipid; b) at least one hydroxyacetophenone; c) at least one anionic surfactant different from glycolipids; d) at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines and their mixtures; e) at least one associative polymer; and f) at least one cationic non-associative polysaccharide different from glycolipids.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the glycolipid(s) a) are chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and their mixtures, preferably from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and their mixtures, more preferably from rhamnolipids.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of the glycolipid(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the hydroxyacetophenone(s) b) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) c) other than the glycolipids are chosen from sulfonate anionic surfactants, preferably from alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds; and their mixtures; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28, more preferably from 14 to 24, even more preferably from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; more preferably among the N-acyltaurates, their salts and their mixtures.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) c) other than the glycolipids ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) d) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the associative polymer(s) e) are chosen from anionic associative polymers, preferably from acrylic anionic associative polymers.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the associative polymer(s) e) ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic non-associative polysaccharide(s) f) other than glycolipids are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures, more preferably from cationic guar gums and their mixtures.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the cationic non-associative polysaccharide(s) f) other than glycolipids ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of all the surfactants, represented by the anionic surfactants c) other than the glycolipids, the amphoteric surfactants d) and optionally the additional surfactant(s) other than the surfactant(s) c) and d) and said glycolipid(s), ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant g), preferably chosen from alkyl(poly)glucosides, more preferably from C8 / C16 alkyl-(poly)glucosides.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-associative non-cationic polysaccharide h) other than glycolipids, preferably chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides other than glycolipids, more preferably from celluloses, starches, galactomannans, scleroglucan and their mixtures, even more preferably scleroglucan.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it is free from non-associative non-cationic polysaccharide h) other than glycolipids.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one compound i) chosen from pyridine derivatives as well as their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures, preferably the pyridine derivative is niacinamide.

17. Cosmetic treatment process, preferably for cleaning and / or washing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

18. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 for cosmetic treatment, preferably cleaning and / or washing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

Images