Care compositions for textured hair, especially afro-textured hair.

Abstract

The invention relates to a care composition for textured hair, in particular afro-textured hair, characterized in that it comprises a combination of vegetable oils consisting of at least 20% w / p combination of baobab oil; at least 20% w / p combination of Abyssinian oil; at least 5% w / p combination of linseed oil and / or safflower oil.

Description

Title of the invention: Care compositions for textured hair, in particular afro-textured hair. Technical field.

[0001] The present invention relates to a care composition for textured hair, in particular afro-textured hair, comprising a specific combination of Baobab oil; Abyssinian oil; and linseed oil and / or safflower oil.

[0002] The invention also relates to the combination of vegetable oils used in said care composition.

[0003] The invention also relates to the use of said association or said cosmetic composition, for the treatment and care of said textured hair.

[0004] The present invention relates to the field of hair care, and in particular to compositions and methods designed to moisturize, repair, define and shine textured hair. State of the art.

[0005] Hair, an essential element of our appearance and identity, is composed of complex structures that require specific care to keep them healthy and in good condition. Hair is made up of the hair shaft, a structure that includes three main components: the medulla (inner layer), the cortex (middle layer) and the cuticle (outer layer). This hair shaft, which grows from the hair follicle, is the site of many of the aesthetic and functional properties of hair, including its strength, elasticity, color and resistance to external aggressions.

[0006] Among the essential elements that make up hair are internal lipids such as ceramides, fatty acids and sterols, as well as keratin, which represents more than 90% of its total composition. Lipids, present inside the cortex and cuticle, play a fundamental role in maintaining the integrity and health of the hair, contributing to its structure, strength, and ability to retain the necessary moisture. Keratin, a fibrous protein composed of multiple amino acids, gives hair its structure and strength. In addition, it has the remarkable ability to absorb up to 40% of its weight in water, allowing the hair to maintain its moisture content and prevent dryness.

[0007] It is important to note that hair comes in a wide variety of textures, from straight to kinky. Each hair type may have specific care and treatment needs, especially curly hair. textured - a term often used to describe hair types in categories 3 and 4 according to the Andre Walker classification.

[0008] Textured hair is known for its variety and uniqueness. It includes wavy, curly, and kinky hair textures, and is commonly seen in individuals of various ethnic backgrounds, such as Africans, African Americans, Afro-Caribbeans, Latinos, and other ethnic groups around the world.

[0009] Type 2 hair has a wavy texture, while type 3 hair has defined curls. Type 4 hair has tighter curls with varying radii of curvature and includes kinky hair texture - also called afro-textured - and curly hair texture. It is important to note that these individuals can (and often do) have multiple hair textures present on their scalp.

[0010] Textured hair, a true symbol of natural beauty, has unique characteristics that set it apart. This hair, with its highly varied spiral structures, is unique for its diversity and voluminous appearance. It can also represent a number of challenges for a certain part of the population in terms of daily care and styling, as it requires specific techniques, knowledge and beauty rituals that are often unknown and have yet to be explored. This specific spiral configuration has many advantages, especially in terms of hair creativity, but it also complicates the even distribution of internal lipids, naturally produced by the scalp, along the hair shaft. As a result, people with textured hair frequently face a loss of moisture, shine and flexibility, thus increasing the risk of breakage.Additionally, daily maintenance can be challenging, with detangling and styling challenges leading to frustration and discouragement. Additionally, this hair is particularly vulnerable to environmental stresses, such as sun exposure, chlorinated or salt water, and frequent hair treatments, further exacerbating the challenges of caring for it.

[0011] Most hair care products available on the market are designed for straight or slightly wavy hair, which has specific needs. These products are formulated with ingredients and technologies that address these needs. However, they are not always suitable for textured hair, which has different needs. For example, hair care products containing silicones can leave textured hair feeling greasy and sticky. Silicones are synthetic substances that form a protective film on the hair. This film can help protect hair from damage, but it can also make hair heavy and difficult to style. Other ingredients commonly used in products Hair care products, such as sulfates and parabens, can also cause problems for the hair and scalp. Sulfates are surfactants that help cleanse the hair. However, they can be harsh on textured hair, which is already drier and more fragile than straight hair. They can cause irritation, dandruff, and dryness. Parabens are synthetic preservatives commonly used in hair products. However, they can act as endocrine disruptors and / or cause allergic reactions and irritation. They can also strip hair of color and make it look dull.

[0012] Consequently, there is a real need for hair products that meet the specific needs of textured hair. These products must be able to maintain hair moisture, facilitate detangling and styling, provide greater shine and better (re)definition of curls while providing a silky effect. There is also a need for hair products that are free of harsh chemical ingredients and inexpensive. An object of the invention is to satisfy, at least partially, these needs. Presentation of the invention.

[0013] It is to the Applicant's credit to have developed an effective hair care composition specially designed to meet the specific needs of textured and afro-textured hair, in particular hair types 3 to 4 according to the André Walker classification. This care composition for textured hair is based on the combination of three specific oils, namely Baobab oil, Abyssinian oil and linseed oil, which act in synergy to offer an effective solution to the problems faced by people with textured hair, including dryness, difficulty in detangling, and loss of curl definition in textured hair.The oils in the hair care combination or composition developed by the Applicant are natural ingredients rich in essential fatty acids that help to moisturize, nourish and protect textured hair, including providing or improving the ease of combing and detangling, curl definition, feel and shine of textured hair. Such oils or essential fatty acids also help prevent hair moisture loss, split ends, loss of hair elasticity and / or hair breakage. They do not cause any intolerance or skin irritation. Finally, they are quickly absorbed by the hair and do not leave a greasy film.

[0014] Linseed oil (INCI name: Linum usitatissimum Seed Oil) is a vegetable oil obtained from the seeds of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). It is distinguished by its richness in essential fatty acids, notably alpha-linolenic acid (C18:3, n-3), a polyunsaturated fatty acid of the omega-3 family, as well as linoleic acid (C18:2, n-6), a polyunsaturated fatty acid belonging to the omega-6 family. Over the centuries, linseed oil has found many applications in various sectors such as food, cosmetics, paint, and many others.

[0015] Safflower oil (INCI name: Carthamus tinctorius Seed Oil) is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of an oleaginous herbaceous plant called safflower, native to North Africa and Western Asia. This oil is known for its richness in linoleic acid (65 to 85%). It has numerous applications in the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

[0016] Baobab oil (INCI name: Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil) is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds contained in the fruits of the baobab tree, an emblematic tree that grows mainly in sub-Saharan Africa. Baobab oil is known for its richness in essential fatty acids, particularly oleic acid (the predominant component), a monounsaturated fatty acid of the omega-9 family. This oil finds a multitude of applications, particularly in the cosmetic and food industries, due to its benefits for the skin and hair, as well as its content of nutrients beneficial for health.

[0017] Abyssinian oil (INCI name: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil) is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of Crambe abyssinica, an annual oilseed plant belonging to the Brassicaceae family. This plant is native to the Abyssinian foothills of Ethiopia as well as the plains of North Africa. Abyssinian oil is distinguished by its richness in unsaturated fatty acids, mainly erucic acid (about 50%), which is a monounsaturated fatty acid of the omega-9 family. Abyssinian oil is used in many applications, including food, cosmetics and industry.

[0018] However, to the Applicant's knowledge, at present, no care composition for textured hair comprises a combination of at least 20% w / w combination of Abyssinian oil; at least 5% w / w combination of linseed oil and / or safflower oil; and at least 20% w / w combination of Baobab oil.

[0019] Thus, according to one aspect of the invention, there is provided a care composition for textured hair which is remarkable in that it comprises a combination of vegetable oils consisting of at least 20% w / w of Abyssinian oil; at least 20% w / w of baobab oil; and at least 5% w / w of linseed oil and / or safflower oil.

[0020] Other advantageous features of the invention are listed below. Each of these features may be considered alone or in combination with the

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[0029] remarkable characteristics defined above, and be the subject, where appropriate, of one or more divisional patent applications. According to a first particular alternative of the present invention, the care composition is an anhydrous composition in which the proportion of the association of vegetable oils is at least 50% w / w anhydrous composition, preferably at least 75% p / Panhydrous composition, preferably at least 95% p / panhydrous composition- According to a second particular alternative of the present invention, the care composition is an aqueous composition in which the proportion of the association of vegetable oils is between 0.1 and 40% w / w aqueous composition, in particular between 0.1 and 25% w / w aqueous composition, preferably between 1 and 15% w / w aqueous composition. According to a particular aspect of the present invention, Abyssinian oil is present in the association of vegetable oils in a content of 25 to 65% w / wassociation- According to a particular aspect of the present invention, linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 5 to 30% w / w. Passociation- Baobab oil can be present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 25 to 65% w / w combination. Preferably, baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 30 to 60% w / w; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 30 to 60% w / w; linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 5 to 30% w / w Preferably, baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / passociation; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 50% w / passociation; linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 10% w / passociation- Preferably, baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / w SO; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / w SO; linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 20% w / w association- The care composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic additive chosen from antioxidant agents, moisturizing agents, oils distinct from said association of vegetable oils, perfuming agents, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0030] The (anhydrous) care composition according to the present invention may be formulated in the form of a hair product of the type to be left on the hair such as a hair oil, a serum or a hair spray.

[0031] The (aqueous) care composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a rinse-out type hair product such as a shampoo, a conditioner, or a leave-in type hair product such as a hair lotion, a serum, a mask, a balm, a gel, or a cream.

[0032] According to another aspect, the invention provides a method for providing or improving the ease of detangling and combing, the definition of curls, the feel and shine of textured hair. This method is remarkable in that it comprises applying to the textured hair a care composition according to the present invention, and optionally, rinsing the hair with water.

[0033] According to yet another aspect, the invention also relates to the combination of vegetable oils used in the care composition according to the present invention.

[0034] According to yet another aspect, the invention also relates to the use of said combination of vegetable oils, as an active agent for improving the condition of textured hair, in particular for providing or improving the ease of detangling and combing, the definition of curls, the feel and shine of textured hair, in a composition for the care and treatment of textured hair.

[0035] Textured hair can be type 4 textured hair according to a classification called Walker classification. Brief description of the figures.

[0036] Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description of the preferred embodiments which follows, with reference to the appended drawing, produced as indicative and non-limiting examples and in which: [Fig.l] is an illustration of André Walker's classification of hair curls, which includes four main types: straight, wavy, curly and frizzy. Detailed description of the invention.

[0037] The present description is given without limitation, each characteristic exposed only in one embodiment being able to be generalized to the other embodiments. Similarly, one or more characteristics exposed only in one embodiment can be combined with one or more other characteristics exposed only in another embodiment.

[0038] Throughout the description, including the claims, proportions are by weight unless otherwise specified.

[0039] .

[0040] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “from ... to ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0041] The term "hair treatment" is intended to mean a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment for solving the specific problems of textured hair, such as dryness, roughness and frizz, by improving its combability and detangling, softness, silkiness and shine.

[0042] The expression “p / passociation” means that the percentage of the component or ingredient considered is by weight relative to the total weight of the association of vegetable oils according to the invention.

[0043] The expression “anhydrous p / pcomposition” means that the percentage of the component or ingredient considered is by weight relative to the total weight of the care composition according to the invention, presented in anhydrous form.

[0044] The expression “aqueous p / pcomposition” means that the percentage of the component or ingredient considered is by weight relative to the total weight of the care composition according to the invention, presented in aqueous form.

[0045] The present invention is based on the discovery that a specific combination of vegetable oils comprising a baobab oil, an Abyssinian oil, and a linseed oil and / or a safflower oil, proves effective in improving the hydration of textured hair. In addition to moisturizing, this combination of oils offers complete nutrition, protection and strengthening adapted to this type of hair. It is also effective in facilitating combing and detangling, improving curl definition, as well as the feel and shine of textured hair. Its components are quickly absorbed by the hair without leaving a greasy film. In addition, such a combination of vegetable oils is economical to produce, easily reproducible and can be produced on a large scale.

[0046] By “textured hair” we mean hair of type 3 or 4 according to the André Walker classification.

[0047] Classification of André Walker:

[0048] The André Walker classification is a classification system for textured hair that was designed by a famous hairdresser named André Walker. This classification (see figure

[0049] 1) is based on two main factors: hair texture and bounce of the hair.

[0050] Hair texture is classified on a scale of 1 to 4, from straight to frizzy: - Type 1: Straight hair. - Type 2: Wavy hair. - Type 3: Curly to frizzy hair. - Type 4: Very curly to frizzy hair (or so-called afro-textured hair).

[0051] With regard to hair bounce, this classification also distinguishes three subcategories, noted A, B and C, which further describe the characteristics of curls or waves.

[0052] By crossing these two factors, we obtain a classification of 12 categories of hair, each having its distinct characteristics. - Straight hair (IA, IB, IC); - Wavy hair (2A, 2B, 2C); - Curly hair (3A, 3B, 3C); - Kinky hair (4A, 4B, 4C).

[0053] This classification is useful for understanding the specific needs of different hair types. For example, textured hair of type 3 or 4, depending on the climate, will need to be more hydrated and protected, because it will be more prone to hair dryness, external aggressions and therefore more fragile, in this context, than other types of hair.

[0054] Association of vegetable oils:

[0055] Regarding the specific combination of vegetable oils, this includes: - an Abyssinian oil (INCI name: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil); a baobab oil (INCI name: Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil); and - a linseed oil (INCI name: Linum usitatissimum Seed oil) and / or a safflower oil (INCI name: Carthamus tinctorius Seed Oil).

[0056] Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of at least 20% w / passociation, preferably in a content of 25 to 65% w / passociation-

[0057] Abyssinian oil is extracted from the seeds of Crambe Abyssinica. It is a pale yellow to golden yellow oil. It can be obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art, for example, by mechanical pressing or by pressurized solvent extraction. See, for example, the article by Francisco Alexis Dntas Maia, et al., Crambe Abyssinica Oil as Raw Material for Renewable Fuel Production-Review. Journal of Biotechnology and Biomedicine 6 (2023): 322-330. DOI: 10.26502 / jbb.2642-91280094. Abyssinian oil is also commercially available.

[0058] Linseed oil and / or safflower oil are present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of at least 5% w / passociation, preferably in a content of 5 to 30% w / passociation.

[0059] Linseed oil is extracted from flax seeds. It is recognizable by its golden yellow color and slightly pronounced odor. It can be obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art, for example by mechanical pressing, by extraction by organic solvent (e.g. n-hexane) under pressure, or by extraction by subcritical fluid (e.g. propane or CO2). See for example patent document CN106635389B or the article by Guilherme Sabadin Piva, et al., Linseed ( Einum usitatissimum ) OR Extraction Using Different Solvents ; Food Technol Biotechnol. 2018 Sep; 56(3): 366-372. doi: 10.17113 / ftb.56.03.18.5318. Linseed oil is also commercially available.

[0060] Safflower oil is an oil extracted from the seeds of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L). The oil consists mainly of linoleic acid triglycerides. It is a yellow fluid oil with a characteristic odor. It can be obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art, for example by mechanical pressing, by extraction with organic solvent (e.g. n-hexane) under pressure, or by extraction with subcritical fluid (e.g. propane or CO2). See for example patent document CN101744237A or the article by: Nauman Khalid, et al.; “A comprehensive characterization of safflower oil for its potential applications as a bioactive food ingredient - A review”; Trends in Food Science & Technology, Volume 66, 2017, Pages 176-186. https: / / doi.Org / 10.1016 / j.tif s.2017.06.009. Safflower oil is also commercially available.

[0061] Baobab oil is present in the association of vegetable oils in a content of at least 20% w / w, preferably in a content of 25 to 65% w / w association.

[0062] Baobab oil is extracted from the seeds of the baobab fruit (Adansonia digitata L.). It is yellow to dark yellow in color with a sweet, nutty odor. It can be obtained by any usual extraction method known to those skilled in the art, for example, by mechanical pressing, by extraction with organic solvent (e.g., n-hexane) under pressure, or by extraction with subcritical fluid (e.g., propane or CO2). See, for example, patent document CN106635389B or the article by Hayford Ofori, et al. Impact of Different Oil Extraction Techniques on the Physicochemical Properties of Adansonia digitata Seed; Int J Food Sci. 2023; 2023: 6233461; doi: 10.1155 / 2023 / 6233461. Baobab oil is also commercially available.

[0063] Abyssinian, baobab, and linseed and / or safflower oils may be used, within the scope of the present invention, as refined or unrefined oils.

[0064] The term "refined oil" refers to a vegetable oil that has undergone a refining process to remove impurities, improve its stability, and modify its characteristics. Refining processes typically include the following steps: De-staining (impurities, such as solid particles, pigments, and odor molecules, are removed from the oil); Bleaching (the oil is bleached to give it a lighter color); Deodorization (the oil is deodorized to remove its natural odor); Neutralization (the acidity of the oil is neutralized).

[0065] The term "unrefined oil" refers to a vegetable oil that has not undergone a refining process. It therefore retains all of its natural properties, including its triglycerides and unsaponifiables, including its compounds Phytochemicals such as vitamins (e.g., vitamin E), sterols, fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons such as squalenes, and carotenoids. Although the amount of unsaponifiables varies and depends on the type of vegetable oil, it is generally in the range of 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the vegetable oil in question. Such phytochemicals may contribute to the beneficial effects of triglycerides (or essential fatty acids).

[0066] Preferably, the oils making up the combination of the present invention are unrefined oils, obtained from the corresponding seeds by mechanical pressing followed by filtration on paper to remove solid particles likely to remain in suspension in the corresponding oil.

[0067] In preferred embodiments, baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 30 to 60% w / passociation; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 30 to 60% w / passociation; linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 5 to 30% w / passociation-

[0068] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / passociation; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 50% w / passociation; linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 10% w / passociation-

[0069] According to another particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / passociation; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / passociation; linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 20% w / passociation-

[0070] According to yet another particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 50% w / passociation; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / passociation; linseed oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 5% w / passociation; and safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 5% w / passociation-

[0071] The respective proportions of the three or four oils making up the combination of vegetable oils of the invention can be chosen so as to provide a balanced supply of fatty acids, in particular unsaturated fatty acids, in order to meet the specific needs of textured hair, that is to say to offer them deep hydration, improved definition of curls, protection against damage, reduced dryness, increased ease of combing and detangling, and natural shine.

[0072] Baobab oil, Abyssinian oil and linseed oil and / or safflower oil each provide the combination of vegetable oils according to the invention with various fatty acids, in particular unsaturated fatty acids, among which are oleic acid (C18:1, n-9), linoleic acid (C18:2, n-6), linolenic acid (C18:3, n-3), erucic acid (C22:1, n-9).

[0073] [Table 1] below shows the representative fatty acids of triglycerides and their distribution in the three vegetable oils of the association according to the invention.

[0074] [Table 1], Fatty acids Baobab oil Linseed oil Safflower oil Abyssinian oil <C16 < 1% < 1% < 1% < 1% Acide palmitique (C16:0) 15 à 30% 3 à 8 % 3 à 10 % 1 à 8% Acide stéarique (Cl 8:0) < 10% < 10% 1 à 5% 1 à 5% Acide oléique (C18:l,n-9) 20 à 45% 11 à 35 % 7 à 20 % 8 à 30% Acide linoléique (C18:2, n-6) 10 à 40% 11 à 24% 65 à 85% 3 à 17% Acide linolénique (C18:3,n-3) <2% 35 à 65 % < 1 % 2 à 10% Acide arachidique (C20) < 1% < 1% < 1 % < 1% Acide érucique (C22:l,n-9) <0,1% <0,1% < 0,5 % 40 à 60%

[0075] The values ​​given in [Table 1] are all given in % by weight based on the total amount of triglyceride fatty acids present in the corresponding oil. They are typically determined by gas chromatography (GC) analysis. These values ​​are approximate only and may vary due to the oils being of natural origin.

[0076] Thanks to the synergy of fatty acids from Baobab oil, Abyssinian oil and linseed oil, the combination according to the present invention offers remarkable advantages for hair care, in particular textured hair.

[0077] First of all, the linoleic (C18:2, n-6) and linolenic (C18:3, n-3) acids contained in the combination according to the invention have reactive double bonds which have the capacity to polymerize and crosslink on the surface of the hair, thus creating a protective film which has several advantages. This film offers increased moisture retention, thus helping to prevent hair dryness. It also acts as a barrier against external aggressions, such as damage caused by heat, pollution, UV rays or chemicals, while improving the softness and shine of the hair and maintaining the curl.

[0078] In addition, enriched with fatty acids such as palmitic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic and erucic acid, the combination according to the invention promotes the suppleness and shine of textured hair. This hair becomes easier to style and detangle, thus limiting the risk of damage during brushing or styling.

[0079] In addition, the unsaturated fatty acids provided by Baobab oil, Abyssinian oil and linseed oil and / or safflower oil also help to strengthen the hair structure, thus promoting better hair growth.

[0080] On the other hand, the association according to the invention is distinguished by its drying properties, which allow rapid and effective absorption of nutrients by textured hair, without leaving greasy or heavy residues.

[0081] Finally, another important aspect of the combination according to the invention is its ability to nourish the scalp, thus promoting overall hair health. Possessing regenerative, healing, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, this combination can also help treat scalp problems, such as dryness, itching and dandruff.

[0082] Cosmetic hair care compositions and processes

[0083] The combination of vegetable oils of the invention is preferably used in a cosmetic composition intended for hair care, and advantageously for textured hair care.

[0084] This cosmetic composition may be an anhydrous composition or an aqueous composition.

[0085] By "anhydrous" is meant a composition having a water content of less than approximately 5% by weight, in particular less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the anhydrous cosmetic composition does not contain added water.

[0086] By "aqueous" is meant a composition whose free water content is greater than 5% by weight, preferably greater than 25% by weight, better still greater than 50% by weight, or even greater than 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Anhydrous composition:

[0088] With regard to the anhydrous composition, the combination of vegetable oils of the invention is advantageously present in a proportion of at least 50% w / w anhydrous composition, preferably at least 75%, preferably at least 95% w / w anhydrous composition.

[0089] The anhydrous composition according to the invention may further contain one or more additional components such as additives usually used in cosmetic compositions of the dry oil or non-aqueous serum type. The additional components may in particular be chosen from antioxidants (e.g.: α-tocopherol, α-tocopherol palmitate, α-tocopherol acetate), moisturizing agents (e.g.: glycerin, propylene glycol and butylene glycol), perfuming agents (e.g.:odorous components such as vanillin, nerol, geraniol, citronellol, linalool, cis-jasmone, decanal, citral, amyl salicylate, phenylethyl alcohol, (-)-(R)-muscone and the like; and essential oils such as lavender oil, lemon oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, rose oil, cedarwood oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, patchouli oil, ylang ylang oil, and the like), vegetable oils distinct from the oils of the combination according to the present invention (for example: castor oil, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, argan oil, macadamia oil, moringa oil, peanut oil, canola oil, avocado oil, and the like), preservatives (for example: benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol), and mixtures thereof.Antioxidants can help improve the storage stability of the anhydrous composition. Moisturizing agents can help maintain hair moisture by attracting and / or retaining water. Other vegetable oils that may be added to the anhydrous composition can provide a variety of essential fatty acids, thereby helping to improve hair nutrition, strengthen hair structure, and maintain overall hair health. Fragrances can play a vital role in masking any unpleasant odors from other ingredients in the anhydrous composition. In addition, they can also help enhance the user's sensory experience by creating pleasant aromas that leave a feeling of freshness and well-being after use. Preservatives can help prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms (e.g., fungi, fungi, and fungi).bacteria, molds) in the composition, which maintains the microbiological stability of the product and avoids any risk of contamination that could compromise the safety and quality of the cosmetic product.

[0090] Of course, those skilled in the art will know how to adapt the choice of possible additional components to be added to the anhydrous composition of the invention and also the operating method in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the present invention are not or not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. These additional components may be present in the anhydrous composition from 0.001 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In embodiments, optional antioxidant agents, preservatives and / or perfuming agents or fragrances may be added to the anhydrous composition at concentrations of 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition. In embodiments, optional moisturizing agents and / or vegetable oils other than the oils of the combination according to the present invention may be included at concentrations of 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0091] Typically, the anhydrous composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil or non-aqueous serum.

[0092] Aqueous compositions:

[0093] With regard to the aqueous composition, the combination of vegetable oils of the invention is present therein, preferably, in a proportion of between 0.1 and 40% w / w aqueous composition, in particular between 0.1 and 25% w / w aqueous composition, preferably between 1 and 15% w / w aqueous composition*

[0094] This aqueous composition may, in addition to water, also contain one or more organic solvents, in particular hydrophilic ones, such as C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, and n-butanol; C3-C7 polyols such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol or glycerol; C3-C7 polyol ethers such as diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether or propylene glycol monomethyl ether; as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol. In general, the organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 80% by weight and preferably 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the aqueous composition.

[0095] The aqueous composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more conventional optional ingredients well known in the art, such as thickeners; emulsifiers; surfactants chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants; C10-C30 fatty alcohols; moisturizing agents; proteins; gelling agents; waxes; gums; oils other than the vegetable oils of the combination according to the present invention; antioxidants; conditioning agents; antistatic agents; anti-dandruff agents; vitamins; sunscreens; mineral or organic pigments; colored or uncolored; dyes; pearlescent and / or opacifying agents; sequestering agents; film-forming polymers; perfuming agents or fragrances; floral waters; plant extracts (e.g. aloe vera extract); preservatives; pH adjusters, buffering agents; protein hydrolysates; viscosity control agents; bulking agents or propellants. Examples of such optional ingredients are notably cited in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, tenth edition (published in 2004 by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC). Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional ingredients and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties (in particular stability, aesthetics and / or performance) of the aqueous composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. Typically, such optional ingredients may be present in the aqueous composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous composition.

[0096] In principle, the aqueous composition according to the invention has a pH compatible with the hair, the scalp, the skin of the face, and any other area of ​​skin. This pH is suitably between 2 and 8 and preferably in the range of 2.5 to 6.5, more preferably 3 to 5.5 and more preferably 3.5 to 5. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of pH adjusters usually used in cosmetics or even by means of conventional buffer systems. The pH adjusters can be acidifying agents or alkalizing agents. Acidifying agents include, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid or phthalic acid.Examples of alkalizing agents include ammonia, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali carbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonate, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives. Examples of conventional buffer systems include the citric acid / citrate or citric acid / sodium hydroxide buffer system.

[0097] The viscosity of the aqueous composition according to the invention is typically between 100 and approximately 20,000 mPa.s, in particular between 500 and 15,000 mPa.s, in particular between 1,000 and 10,000 mPa.s, as measured with any suitable rheometer or viscometer at 25°C (e.g. using a BROOKFIELD type viscometer).

[0098] The aqueous composition of the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms, more or less fluid, conventionally used for topical application to the hair. It can in particular be formulated in the form of solutions of the aqueous lotion or serum type; in the form of aqueous or hydro-alcoholic gels; in dispersed form, in particular in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, of more or less thick liquid consistency such as milks, more or less creamy creams or gels. It is also possible to envisage an aqueous composition in the form of a foam or even in aerosol form also comprising a propellant (e.g.: air, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, dimethyl ether, hydrocarbons such as propane, isobutane) under pressure.

[0099] Preferably, the aqueous composition is in the form of a hair product (for hair) of the rinse-out type such as a shampoo or conditioner, or of the leave-in type such as a cream, a mask, a serum or a hair lotion. It may also be in the form of a hair dye or mascara to be applied with a brush or comb.

[0100] The anhydrous or aqueous compositions for textured hair care according to the present invention can be obtained by any formulation method known in the cosmetic field. Their respective ingredients can be mixed in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0101] The care compositions according to the invention (anhydrous or aqueous) can be packaged in various forms, in particular in containers (for example, a metal or plastic tube). A container can optionally be provided with a pump. It can be pressed to dispense a desired quantity of the care composition contained therein. The composition can be dispensed in the form of a spray, aerosol, liquid, lotion, milk or cream.

[0102] The combination of vegetable oils according to the invention and the care compositions in accordance with the invention, whether anhydrous or aqueous, are in particular intended to be used to improve the condition of textured hair and facilitate its daily care, in particular to provide or improve the ease of detangling and combing, the definition of curls, the feel and shine of textured hair.

[0103] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for improving the condition of textured hair. This method can be implemented in particular by applying the care compositions as defined above, according to the usual technique for using these compositions. For example: application of a hair product of the type to be left on the hair such as a hair oil, a hair serum or a hair spray on dry or slightly wet textured hair; or application of a hair product of the type to be rinsed such as a shampoo or a conditioner on wet textured hair; or application of a hair product of the type without rinsing such as a cream, an aqueous serum or a hair lotion on dry or slightly wet textured hair. After application of the care composition, rinsing the hair with water can be carried out, for example, in the case the use of a care composition in the form of a rinse-out hair product such as shampoo or conditioner.

[0104] The cosmetic treatment method according to the invention can be carried out daily (at least once a day) or two or more times a week, for at least one month.

[0105] An advantage of the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention is that it provides or improves the ease of detangling and combing. Another advantage of this method is that it enhances the visual appearance and apparent health of textured hair by making it softer and more pleasant to the touch, by providing it with a very strong shine and by improving the definition of curls. Another advantage of this method is that it promotes better water retention in the hair, essential for maintaining adequate hydration. Yet another significant advantage of this method is that it contributes to the formation of a protective barrier around the hair, thus providing protection against water loss, as well as against environmental aggressions and other external factors.

[0106] It is also contemplated to combine a treatment for textured hair using a care composition according to the present invention, which is in anhydrous form, with a treatment for textured hair using a care composition according to the present invention, which is in aqueous form. This combination of treatments aims to provide more complete and personalized hair care, taking advantage of the specific benefits of each type of care composition, whether anhydrous or aqueous. It makes it possible to optimize the benefits of both compositions, thus ensuring an integrated and effective approach to the daily care of textured hair.

[0107] The textured hair care compositions according to the present disclosure may be incorporated into a kit. For example, a kit may include at least one hair care composition according to the present disclosure, whether anhydrous or aqueous, and one or more additional compositions, for example, a hair washing solution, coloring composition, shampoo, conditioner, etc. The different compositions are contained separately in the kits. The kits may also include instructions and / or explanations for using the care compositions of the invention included in the kits as well as the use of any other compositions optionally included in the kits.

[0108] The combination of vegetable oils of the invention and the care compositions containing it are easy to apply and use. They also have the advantage of being remarkably well tolerated by the hair and scalp. They do not cause any intolerance or skin irritation. They are particularly important for textured hair of type 3 (curly) and type 4 (kinky), which often tend to be more prone to dryness and breakage, and can present challenges in terms of detangling, styling and shaping depending on the desired style. However, they can also be beneficial for type 1 (straight) or type 2 (wavy) hair, particularly when it is dry, damaged or weakened by chemical treatments, unsuitable cosmetic products and / or exposure to the sun, sea water and / or chlorinated swimming pool water.

[0109] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and are not limiting in nature. Examples

[0110] Example 1: Associations of vegetable oils and evaluation on textured hair.

[0111] Using standard techniques, various oily combinations A1 to A.8 were prepared, the compositions of which are indicated in [Table 2] below (the percentages are by weight relative to the weight of the combination considered).

[0112] [Table 2], Ingredients Al A.2 A.3 A.4 A.5 A.6 A.7 A.8 Abyssinian Oil* 50% 50% - 70% 60% 50% 40% 25% Linseed Oil* - 50% 50% 5% 10% 10% 20% 20% Baobab Oil* 50% - 50% 25% 30% 40% 40% 55% * Available from distributor H&B O ILS CENTER Co. (Israel)

[0113] .

[0114] Evaluation on textured hair:

[0115] The oily associations A1 to A.8 described in example 2 were used in a hairdresser test carried out with a professional hairdresser.

[0116] Twenty female volunteers (age >18 years) were recruited for this hairdresser test. The participants' hair texture was type 3 to 4 according to the André Walker classification. Between D-7 and D-0, the volunteers were not to apply any hair care product based on vegetable oil(s). At D-0, the volunteers went to the hairdresser without having washed their hair either the day or the day before the appointment.

[0117] Participants were divided into four groups of five. Each group used two different oil combinations.

[0118] The professional hairdresser selected ten strands from the frontal area of ​​each participant for the test. These ten strands were separated into two groups of five. For each participant, five strands were treated with one of the oily combinations (A.1, A.2, A.3 or A.7), while the other five strands received a different oily association (A.4, A.5, A.6 or A.8), as indicated in [Table 3] below.

[0119] [Table 3], Groups Oily associations tested Group 1 Al A.4 Group 2 A.2 A.5 Group 3 A.3 A.6 Group 4 A.7 A.8

[0120]

[0121] Equal amounts of the tested oily combinations were applied to the ten selected strands of the frontal area and the top of the head of each participant, on hair preferably moistened with water. The same amount of oily combination was applied to each strand, then spread over the lengths to the ends by rubbing strand by strand in order to distribute the product evenly over each strand, without untangling them.

[0122] The oily combinations were evaluated on the following criteria: combability, softness, curl definition and shine.

[0123] These criteria were evaluated by a jury composed of one person who rated each criterion on a scale of 1 to 5 (1 = the criterion is not present, 5 = the criterion is very present): - Combability: The combability of the hair was assessed by a combing test (how easily the hair can be combed and detangled without breakage). The hair is graded from 1 (very difficult to comb) to 5 (very easy to comb). - Silky effect: The silky effect of the hair was assessed by a touch test. The hair is classified from 1 (very rough) to 5 (very soft). - Curl definition: The definition of hair curls was assessed using a visual scale. Hair was graded from 1 (very diffuse curls) to 5 (very defined curls). - Shine: Hair shine was assessed using a visual scale. Hair was graded from 0 (very dull) to 5 (very shiny).

[0124] [Table 4] shows the scores obtained for each oily association tested.

[0125] [Table 4], Criteria assessed Scores obtained Al A.2 A.3 A.4 A.5 A.6 A.7 A.8 Combability 2 2 2 3 4 5 5 3 Silky effect 3 2 2 4 5 5 5 3 Curl definition 2 1 1 3 4 5 5 4 Shine 1 2 2 3 5 5 5 3

[0126] .

[0127] The results presented in [Table 4] show that the combinations A.4 to A.8 of the invention have a very significant and important effect on the ease of combing and detangling of the hair, as well as on the definition of the curls, the shine and the silky effect.

[0128] Example 2: Non-aqueous serum for textured hair

[0129] Using conventional techniques, a care composition for textured hair is prepared in the form of a non-aqueous serum, the ingredients and proportions of which are indicated [Table 4] below. The percentages are by weight relative to the weight of the care composition.

[0130] [Table 4], Ingredients Proportions (in %) Abyssinian oil 49.5 40 49.5 50 Linseed oil 10 5 - 5 Safflower oil - 5 10 5 Baobab oil 40 50 40 39.7 Antioxidant 0.3 - 0.3 0.3 Perfume agent 0.2 - 0.2 -

[0131]

[0132] This serum, applied once a day to type 3 or 4 hair, significantly improves the appearance and shine of the hair. It becomes easier to comb and detangle, softer to the touch, less rough and less dry. In addition, this serum is quickly absorbed by the hair. It does not leave a greasy feeling on the hands when you run your hands through your hair.

[0133] Example 3: Water-based serum for textured hair

[0134] Using conventional techniques, a care composition for textured hair is prepared in the form of an aqueous serum. This care composition (serum aqueous) contains 5% by weight of the oily combination A.7 described in Example 1 and further comprises the following ingredients: Tocopheryl Acetate, Perfume (Fragrance), Camphor, Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Menthol, Peg-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, Polysorbate-20.

[0135] This aqueous serum was applied to textured hair. Excellent performance was observed in terms of detangling, combing, curl definition, silkiness and high shine.

[0136] Example 4: Shampoo for textured hair

[0137] By usual techniques, care compositions for textured hair are prepared in the form of shampoos and comprise, in demineralized water, from 1 to 15% of the oily combination A.7 described in Example 1 and other ingredients including: Citric acid (pH adjuster); Perfume agents (Citral, Limonene, Linalool, and mixture of essential oils); Betaine (moisturizing agent); Caprylyl / caprylic glucoside (non-ionic surfactant); Sodium chloride; Disodium cocoyl glutamate (surfactant); Glycerin (moisturizing agent); Glucoside laurate (non-ionic surfactant); Hydrolyzed wheat protein (Antistatic agent and hair conditioner); Sodium cocoyl glutamate (anionic surfactant); Sodium cocoyl glutamate (anionic surfactant); Potassium sorbate (preservative); Tocopherol (antioxidant).

Claims

Claims

1. Care composition for textured hair, in particular afro-textured hair, characterized in that it comprises a combination of vegetable oils consisting of at least 20% w / p combination of Abyssinian oil; at least 20% w / p combination of baobab oil; and at least 5% w / p combination of linseed oil and / or safflower oil.

2. Care composition for textured hair according to claim 1, characterized in that it is an anhydrous composition in which the proportion of the combination of vegetable oils is at least 50% w / w anhydrous composition - preferably at least 75% w / w anhydrous composition - preferably at least 95% w / w anhydrous composition -

3. Care composition for textured hair according to claim 1, characterized in that the care composition is an aqueous composition in which the proportion of the combination of vegetable oils is between 0.1 and 40% w / wCOmpoSitionaqueuSe, in particular between 0.1 and 25% w / pcompoSitionaqueuSe, preferably between 1 and 15% w / Pcomposition naqueuse-

4. Care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 25 to 05% w / w combination-

5. Care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 5 to 30% w / w combination-

6. Care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 25 to 05% w / w combination-

7. Care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1 to 0, characterized in that baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 30 to 00% w / passociation; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 30 to 00% w / passociation; linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 5 to 30% w / passociation-

8. Care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / passociation; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 50% w / pASSOCiation; and linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 10% w / passociation-

9. Care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that baobab oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / pSSOciation; Abyssinian oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 40% w / pSSOCiation; linseed oil and / or safflower oil is present in the combination of vegetable oils in a content of 20% w / passociation-

10. Care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1, 2 or 4 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetic additive chosen from antioxidant agents, moisturizing agents, oils distinct from said association of vegetable oils, perfuming agents, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

11. A care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1 or 2 or 4 to 10, characterized in that it is formulated in the form of a hair product such as a hair oil, a serum or a hair spray.

12. Care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1 or 3 to 10, characterized in that it is in the form of a hair product such as a shampoo or conditioner, lotion, serum, mask, balm, gel, or cream.

13. Care composition for textured hair according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that said textured hair is textured hair of type 3 or 4 according to a classification known as the Walker classification, in particular afro-textured hair.

14. A method for improving the condition of textured hair, in particular for providing or improving the ease of combing, curl definition, feel and shine of textured hair, characterized in that it comprises applying to the textured hair a care composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 13, and optionally, rinsing the hair with water.

15. Method for improving the condition of textured hair according to claim 14, characterized in that said textured hair is textured hair of type 3 or 4 according to a classification called Walker classification, in particular afro-textured hair.

16. Association of vegetable oils consisting of at least 20% w / p association of Abyssinian oil, at least 20% w / p association of baobab oil, and at least 5% w / p association of linseed oil and / or safflower oil.

17. Association of vegetable oils according to claim 16, characterized in that the Abyssinian oil is present in a content of 25 to 65% w / wassociation*

18. Association of vegetable oils according to claim 16 or 17, characterized in that the linseed oil and / or safflower oil are present in a content of 5 to 30% w / w.

19. Association of vegetable oils according to one of claims 16 to 18, characterized in that the baobab oil content is 25 to 65% w / wassociation*

20. Association of vegetable oils according to one of claims 16 to 19, characterized in that the baobab oil is present in a content of 30 to 60% w / w; the Abyssinian oil is present in a content of 30 to 60% w / w; and the linseed oil and / or the safflower oil are present in a content of 5 to 30% w / w.

21. Association of vegetable oils according to one of claims 16 to 20, characterized in that the baobab oil is present in a content of 40% w / w; the Abyssinian oil is present in a content of 50% w / w; and the linseed oil and / or the safflower oil are present in a content of 10% w / w.

22. Association of vegetable oils according to one of claims 16 to 20, characterized in that the baobab oil is present in a content of 40% w / w; the Abyssinian oil is present in a content of 40% w / w; the linseed oil and / or the safflower oil are present in a content of 20% w / w association-

23. Use of a combination of vegetable oils according to one of claims 16 to 22, as an active agent for improving the condition of textured hair, in particular for providing or improving ease of combing, definition of curls, feel and shine of the hair. textured hair, in a composition for the care and treatment of textured hair.

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