Cosmetic treatment based on pycnidione

Pycnidione, derived from biotechnology, addresses cosmetic treatment needs by enhancing skin and appendage conditions, offering anti-aging and sensory benefits through synergistic combinations with additional active ingredients.

FR3160892A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-10-10SEDERMA SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024003466
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-04-04
Publication Date
2025-10-10

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic treatments lack effective, sustainable solutions for addressing signs of aging, skin imperfections, and sensory discomfort without being therapeutic.

Method used

The use of pycnidione, a biotechnologically derived compound with anti-plasmodial, anti-cancer, and anti-bacterial properties, for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatments to improve skin and appendage conditions, including anti-glycation, antioxidant, and hyaluronic acid stimulation, combined with additional active ingredients for synergistic effects.

Benefits of technology

Pycnidione enhances skin mechanical properties, strengthens the dermis-epidermis junction, combats aging effects, reduces roughness and wrinkles, and improves sensory comfort, while being suitable for all skin types and promoting hyaluronic acid production.

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Abstract

Cosmetic treatment based on pycnidione The treatment is intended for the skin and its appendages to improve its general condition and / or sensory comfort. It can be chosen in particular from a treatment for the signs of chronological or premature aging, a moisturizing treatment, a treatment for dull and / or tired skin, a treatment for sensory discomfort of the skin, a treatment for oily and / or acne-prone skin, and / or a hair treatment. Pycnidione can be provided in the form of an extract of the biomass of an in vitro culture of a microorganism capable of producing pycnidione as a secondary metabolism.
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Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic treatment based on pycnidione

[0001] The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages, implemented in particular topically.

[0002] It targets the cosmetic, dermatological and hygiene and personal care product industries, intended for people and animals, which manufacture and implement active ingredients and final formulas. These industries are increasingly looking for new treatments to offer to improve an unsightly condition of the skin and / or its appendages or to improve their sensory comfort. In general, it will involve preventing or treating unsightly imperfections or discomfort due to chronological or premature aging of the skin and / or its appendages, such as surface homogeneity defects (wrinkles, fine lines, roughness, etc.), color homogeneity defects (spots, redness, etc.) and radiance of the complexion (loss of radiance, luminosity), flaccidity (appearance of jowls, drooping eyelids, etc.), or sensory discomfort (tingling, tightness, etc.). It can also involve treating skin or appendages that are not necessarily mature, for example in the case of a preventive treatment, or even treatments aimed at all skin types such as moisturizing treatments, improving the radiance of the complexion, or sensory discomfort that can be due to factors other than aging, such as pollution or an unhealthy lifestyle. In the context of a cosmetic treatment, it will in no case be a question of offering a curative treatment for diseased skin.

[0003] The aim of the present invention is to propose a new cosmetic treatment for the skin (including the scalp and lips) and / or its appendages (including in particular the hair, body hair, eyelashes and eyebrows, nails), this treatment also advantageously having the possibility of implementing one or more active compounds obtained by a biotechnological route in a logic of “natural” products and sustainable development.

[0004] To this end, it proposes the use of pycnidione for a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin (including the scalp and lips) and its appendages to improve its general condition and / or sensory comfort.

[0005] Pycnidione has been described as having anti-plasmodial activity, anti-cancer activity and more recently anti-bacterial activity, particularly anti-dandruff via an action on Malassezia type bacteria (WO2010 / 061185).

[0006] Test results are given later in the description showing the advantageous use of pycnidione, for a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or its appendages, in particular a treatment for the signs of chronological or premature aging, a moisturizing treatment, a treatment for dull and / or tired skin (including dark circles and bags under the eyes), a treatment for sensory discomfort of the skin, a treatment for oily and / or acne-prone skin (treating a pro-acne condition of the skin) and / or a treatment for brittle and / or split hair.

[0007] More particularly and advantageously, the treatment according to the invention is suitable for: - maintain or improve the mechanical and viscoelastic properties of the skin including the scalp; - strengthen the dermis-epidermis junction (DEJ); - combat the harmful effects of glycation (anti-glycation treatment); - combat the harmful effects of free radicals (antioxidant or anti-radical treatment, photoprotection); - prevent or reduce roughness, fine lines and wrinkles of the skin; - prevent or reduce sagging of the skin (jowls, drooping eyelids); - prevent or reduce pigmentation defects; and / or - stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid. Other cosmetic activities or benefits may also be envisaged by those skilled in the art.

[0008] Pycnidione has a chemical structure of the bis-tropolone type, corresponding to the following formula (I) in its natural form (stereochemistry described in the scientific publication “Total synthesis and computational investigations of sesquiterpene-tropolones alleviate stereochemical inconsistencies and resolve an ambiguous biosynthetic relationship”, C. Bemis et al. J. Am. Chem. Soc. 2021, 143, 6006-6017):

[0009] According to the invention, the term "pycnidione" also includes dehydroxy-pycnidione (in which the hydroxyl group of the 10-carbon ring is replaced by a hydrogen) and eupenifeldin (stereoisomer of pycnidione). Pycnidione is preferred.

[0010] According to the invention, the term "pycnidione" includes pycnidione in a suitable, physiologically acceptable saline form.

[0011] Pycnidione can be produced by chemical synthesis, or can be derived from a natural source and obtained by in-vitro biofermentation.

[0012] The following examples of microorganisms (fungi) can be used to produce pycnidione as a secondary metabolite by in-vitro biofermentation culture: Neosetophoma cerealis (synonym of Coniothyrium cereale, Coniothyrium cerealis, Neosetophoma samarorum, strain RKDO834), Neosetophoma sp. (Strain MSX50044), Theissenia rogersii (strains 9203120, 92031201, OS-F69284 (ATCC 74390)), Phoma sp. (Strain tersa (strain FS441).

[0013] Such strains are available from collections or banks, for example in the case of Neosetophoma cerealis from the Central Bureau for Fungal Biodiversity (“Centraalbureau voor Schimmelcultures”, CBS) under number CBS 963.68.

[0014] Preferably according to the invention, the pycnidione is provided in the form of an extract of the biomass of an in vitro culture of a microorganism capable of producing pycnidione as a secondary metabolite. This extract can be purified to increase the pycnidione content. Preferably the extract is produced by a strain of Neosetophoma cerealis. According to a particular example, the extract produced in vitro contains as secondary metabolites a set of tropolones, of which at least 80%, preferably at least 90% by weight, correspond to pycnidione, the remainder consisting of epolone A and / or epolone B which are tropolones such as pycnidione.

[0015] When the in-vitro production route by biofermentation is chosen, pycnidione is produced in the biomass under suitable and optimal culture conditions for the microorganism.

[0016] Cultivation may be carried out on any suitable synthetic medium or natural medium provided that it appropriately contains carbon sources, nitrogen sources and inorganic salts. If necessary, the medium may be appropriately supplemented with vitamins and other nutrients. Examples of general carbon sources include (but are not limited to) sugars such as glucose, maltose, fructose, sucrose and starch, alcohols such as glycerol and mannitol, amino acids such as glycine, alanine and asparagine, and oils and fats such as soybean oil and olive oil.Examples of nitrogen sources include organic nitrogen-containing compounds such as soybean powder, corn liquor, beef extract, peptone, yeast extract, amino acid mixtures, and fish powder, as well as inorganic nitrogen compounds such as ammonium salts and nitrates. Micronutrients in the form of inorganic salts can also be used, for example calcium carbonate, sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, copper sulfate, manganese chloride, zinc sulfate, cobalt chloride and various phosphates. The microorganism can be cultured at a suitable culture temperature within a range that allows its growth and efficient production of pycnidione. The preferred culture temperature is 10°C to 32°C, and more preferably 20°C to 25°C. The pH at the start of culture is preferably about 6 to 8, and the culture time is from one day to a few weeks. The culture can be stopped when a sufficient amount of pycnidione production is reached, preferably the maximum possible amount. The culture can be carried out in solid or liquid phase under appropriate agitation in a bioreactor.

[0017] Appropriate treatment of the biomass (once separated from the supernatant) then makes it possible to recover an extract containing the pycnidione. Any separation means usually used in in vitro culture to extract a metabolite from the biomass can be used to recover this extract, such as extraction by a suitable solvent in which the metabolite can be solubilized.

[0018] More preferably still according to the invention, to extract the pycnidione from the biomass, extraction using a solvent is used and, more preferably, a physiologically acceptable solvent is also used, in particular a glycolated solvent, for example pentylene glycol or butylene glycol, or a mixture thereof. A clarification step to remove any remaining cellular debris is furthermore to be carried out if necessary at the end of the treatment.

[0019] This extract comprising pycnidione in an appropriate quantity can be advantageously used as such for the implementation of the invention. The extract obtained can also be purified to increase the pycnidione content, until, if desired, purified pycnidione is obtained at a high purity level, for example having a pycnidione content greater than 80%. The purification of pycnidione can be carried out by chromatography or any other suitable means known to those skilled in the art.

[0020] If the biomass extraction solvent is not a physiologically acceptable solvent, and consequently if the extract cannot be used as such, the latter is freed from any trace of non-physiologically acceptable solvent by an appropriate treatment, and the residue of the extract obtained is then taken up in a physiologically acceptable medium so that it can be used at the appropriate dosage of pycnidione in the cosmetic treatment according to the invention.

[0021] “Physiologically acceptable” means according to the invention that the compositions are suitable for topical or transdermal use, in contact with mucous membranes, nails, scalp, hair, fur and skin of mammals and more particularly human, compositions which can be ingested or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and others. This “physiologically acceptable medium” forms what is classically called the excipient of the composition.

[0022] Preferably according to the invention, the physiologically acceptable medium may be an alcoholic, glycolic, aqueous, hydroglycolic or hydroalcoholic medium, or formed by a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a microemulsion. Preferably, the physiologically acceptable medium is glycolic according to the invention.

[0023] The "effective" amount of pycnidione for use in the treatment according to the invention depends on the intended use of the composition containing it, face, hands, body, hair / scalp in particular, and it also depends on various factors, such as age, the condition of the person or the extent of the disorder. An effective amount means a non-toxic amount sufficient to obtain the desired effect.

[0024] As an indication, in a composition intended for a consumer for a treatment according to the invention, the pycnidione, to be present in an effective quantity, can range in the composition used relative to the total weight thereof from 0.000001% (0.001 ppm) to 10% (100,000 ppm), preferably from 0.000001% (0.01 ppm) to 1% (10,000 ppm), more preferably from 0.00001% (0.1 ppm) to 0.1% (1000 ppm), preferably from 0.0001% (1 ppm) to 0.1% (100 ppm), even more preferably from 0.001% (10 ppm) to 0.05 (50 ppm), depending on the destination of the composition and the desired effect, more or less pronounced, the number of applications recommended.

[0025] All percentages and ratios used in this application are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at 25°C, unless otherwise specified.

[0026] Also for information purposes, for a cosmetic facial treatment, the European Cosmetics Directive has set a standard application quantity of a cream-type composition of 2.72 mg / cm2 / day / person and for a body lotion-type composition of 0.5 mg / cm2 / day / person.

[0027] According to other particularities, the cosmetic treatment according to the invention can be associated with one or more other treatments targeting the skin or hair, such as light therapy, heat or aromatherapy treatments.

[0028] According to the invention, it is possible to propose multi-compartment devices or kits intended for implementing the method described above, and which could comprise, by way of example, and without this being limiting, in a first compartment a composition containing pycnidione, and in a second ... compartment an additional active ingredient acting jointly, the compositions contained in said first and second compartments being considered here as a combination composition for simultaneous, separate or spread out use over time, in particular in one of the treatments defined above.

[0029] According to other advantageous characteristics, pycnidione can be used according to the invention in combination with one or more additional active ingredients at effective concentrations advantageously making it possible to offer a synergistic effect or to reinforce activity.

[0030] The additional active ingredients may be chosen, for example, from lightening, anti-redness, anti-blemish, slimming, calming active ingredients for the treatment of sensitive, reactive skin, filtering radiation, in particular UVA, UVB, IR, visible light including blue light, moisturizing, humectant, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and fine lines active ingredients, improving mechanical and elastic properties, radiance of the complexion, detoxifying active ingredients, anti-hair regrowth or on the contrary promoting growth, anti-dandruff, acting on the skin barrier, anti-acne, acting on sebum secretion, mattifying, unifying, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-free radical, anti-glycant, eye contour (anti-eye bags and anti-puffiness), promoting blood circulation, peptides, vitamins, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, etc.These active ingredients may be synthetic or obtained from plant materials, such as plant extracts or products of plant culture, fermentation, bacterial culture or enzyme culture. The "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook" published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions according to the present invention, as long as they are physically and chemically compatible with the other ingredients of the composition and especially with the actives of the present invention. Furthermore, the nature of these additional ingredients must not unacceptably alter the benefits of the invention. These additional ingredients may be synthetic or natural such as plant extracts or be derived from a biotechnological process. Other active ingredients for skin, scalp or hair care that are particularly useful in combination with the composition according to the invention can be found in the commercial documentation of Crodarom, Alban Muller International and Sederma, and on the website www.croda.fr.

[0031] Examples of commercial active ingredients include: betaine, glycerol, Actimoist Bio 2™ (Active organics), AquaCacteen™ (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Aquaphyline™ (Silab), AquaregulK™ (Solabia), Carciline™ (Greentech), Codiavelane™ (Biotech Marine), Dermaflux™ (Arch Chemicals, Inc), Hydra'Flow™ (Sochibo), Hydromoist L™ (Symrise), RenovHyal™ (Soliance), Seamoss™ (Biotech Marine), Argireline™ (trade name for Lipotec's acétyl hexapeptide-3), spilanthol or an extract from Acmella oleracea known as Gatuline Expression™, an extract from Boswellia serrata known as Boswellin™, Deepaline PVB™ (Seppic), Syn-AKE™ (Pentapharm), Ameliox™, Bioxilift™ (Silab), Phy-toCellTec™Argan (Mibelle), Papilactyl D™ (Silab), Preventhelia™ (Lipotec), or one or more of the suitable active ingredients sold by Sederma: Subliskin™, Venuceane™, Moist 24™, Vegesome Moist 24™, Essenskin™, Juvinity™, Revidrat™, Resistem™, Chronodyn™, Kombuchka™, Chromocare™, Cal-mosensine™, Glycokin factor S™, Biobustyl™, Idealift™, Ceramide 2™, Ceramide A2™, Ceramide HO3™, Legance™, Intenslim™, Prodizia™, Beautifeye™, Pa-cifeelTM, Zingerslim™, Meiritage™, Sebuless™, Apiscalp™, Rubistem™, Citystem™, Neonyca™,NG Shea Butter Unsaponifiables™, Majestem™, Hydronesis™, Poretect™, Amberstem™, Synchrolife™, Sylverfree™, Feminage™, Ameyezing™, BB-Biont™, Revitalide™, Mel[o]stem™, Luceane™, or mixtures thereof.

[0032] Among the plant extracts (in the form of conventional extracts or prepared by an in vitro method) which can be used as additional active agents, mention may also be made, in particular, of ivy extracts, for example climbing ivy (Hedera helix), Bupleurum chinensis, Bupleurum falcatum, arnica (Arnica montana L.), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N.), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L.), ginseng (Panax ginseng), ginko biloba, St. John's wort (Hyperycum perforation), butcher's broom (Ruscus aculeatus L.), ulm (Filipendula ulmaria L.), orthosiphon (Orthosiphon stamincus Benth.), artichoke (Cynara scolymus), algae (Fucus vesiculosus), birch (Betula alba), green tea,cola nut (Cola nipida), Indian chestnuts, bamboo, Centella asiatica, heather, fucus, willow, piloselle, ash extracts, cangzhu extracts, chrysanthellum indicum extracts, plants of the genus Armeniacea, Atractylo, Pharbinodis, Sintinodis, Pharbinodis, bamboo, willow, piloselle Flemingia, of Coleus as C. forskohlii, C. blumei, C. es-quirolii, C. scutellaroides, C. xanthantus and C. barbatus, as an extract of roots of Coleus barbatus, extracts of Ballote, Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trobia, Cecropia, Cecropia, Argania Dioscoreae as Dioscorea opposita or Mexicain, extracts of Ammi visnaga, Siegesbeckia, especially Siegesbeckia orientalis, plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, especially extracts of blueberries (Vaccinium angustifollium) of Arctophylos vera, containing urine plant Alosi, sterols (especially phytosterols), Manjistha (extract from plants of the genus Rubia,in particular Rubia cordifolia), Guggal (extract of plants of the genus Commiphora, in particular Commiphora mukul), an extract of kola, , chamomile, purple clover, Piper methysticum (Kava Kava de Sederma), Bacopa monieri (Bacocalmine™, Sederma) and sea whip, Glycyrrhiza glabra, mulberry, melaleuca (tea tree), Larrea divaricata, Rabdosia rubesia, gracile delis, delis Fibraurea recisa hirudinea, of Chaparral sorghum, of flower of sunflower, of Enantia chlorantha, of Mitracarpe of the genus Spermacocea, of Buchu barosma, of Lawsonia inermis L., of Adiantium capillus-veneris L., of Chelidonium majus, of Luffarica cylindrica, Japanese Cylind, Cylind (Japanese Marus). white var.unshiu), of Camelia sinensis, of Imperata cylindrical, of Glaucium flavum, of Cupressus sempervirens, of Polygonatum multiflorum, of Loveyly hemsleya, of Sambucus nigra, of Phaseolus lunatus, of Centaurium, of Macrocystis pyrifera, of Fumera diphyrosa, of Anmarhoffrhena, of asperdelo Portulaca pilosa, Humulus lupulus, Arabica coffee, Ilex paraguariensis, Globularia cordifolia, Oxydendron arboreum, Albizzia julibrissin, Zingiber zerumbet smith, As-tragalus membranaceus, Atractylodes, macrotagola, Plantagola lance Leontopodium alpinum (or eldelweiss), Mirabilis jalapa, Apium graveolens, Marrubium vulgare, Buddleja davidii Franch., Monarda didyma, Lavandula an-gustifolia or orchids. .

[0033] The compositions according to the present invention may comprise peptides, including, but not limited to, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexapeptides and their derivatives. According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of the additional peptide, in the composition, varies between 1x10-7% and 20%, preferably between 1x10-6% and 10%, preferentially between 1x10-5% and 5%, by weight. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "peptide" herein refers to peptides containing ten or fewer amino acids, their derivatives, isomers, and complexes with other species such as a metal ion (e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and others). The term "peptides" refers to both natural peptides and (bio)synthetic peptides. It also refers to compositions containing peptides that occur in nature and / or are commercially available.

[0034] Non-limiting examples of dipeptides usable in the body of the present invention, including Carnosine (beta-AH), YR, VW, NF, DF, KT, KC, CK, KP, KK, TT, PA, PM or PP. Non-limiting examples of tripeptides including RKR, HGG, GHK, GGH, GHG, GKH, KPK, KFK, KavaK, K[3AK, KabuK, KacaK, KPK, KMOK, KM02K, PPL, PPR, SPR, QPA, LPA or SPA. Non-limiting examples of tetrapeptides are KTFK (SEQ ID NO: 1), GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 2), RSRK (SEQ ID NO: 3), KTAK (SEQ ID NO: 4), KAYK (SEQ ID NO: 5), KFYK (SEQ ID NO: 6), TKPR (SEQ ID NO: 7), AVPG (SEQ ID NO: 8), VPGA (SEQ ID NO : 9), LKLE (SEQ ID NO : 10), ELED (SEQ ID NO : 11) or LLAN (SEQ ID NO : 12). Non-limiting examples of pentapeptide are KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 13) and KTSKS (SEQ ID NO: 14). Non-limiting examples of hexapeptides are GKTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 15) or VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO: 16). Other peptides that can be used in the context of the present invention may be chosen from, without this list being limiting: lipophilic derivatives of peptides, preferably palmitoyl and myristoyl derivatives, and complexes with the metal ions mentioned above (eg copper complex of the tripeptide HGG). Preferred dipeptides include, for example, N-Palmitoyl-[3-Ala-His, Pal-KT, Pal-RT (Sederma). Preferred tripeptides include, in particular, the copper derivative of HGG (Lamin™, Sigma), Pal-GHK, lipospondin (N-Elaidoyl-KFK) and its conservatively substituted analogs, N-Acetyl-RKR-NH2 (Peptide CK+), Pal-KavaK, Pal-K[3AlaK, Pal-KabuK, Pal-KacaK, Pal-KMO2K, N-Biot-GHK (Sederma) and their derivatives.

[0035] Mention may also be made here of the anti-aging tripeptides of general formula X-Pro*-Pro*-Xaa-Y described in application WO2015 / 181688 with Xaa chosen from Leu, Arg, Lys, Ala, Ser, and Asp, at the N-terminal end, X chosen from H, -CO-R1 and -SO2-R1 and at the C-terminal end Y chosen from OH, OR1, NH2, NHR1 or NR1R2, RI and R2 being, independently of one another, chosen from an alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy and aryloxy group, which may be linear, branched, cyclic, polycyclic, unsaturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, phosphorylated and / or sulfur-containing, said group being able to have in its skeleton a heteroatom in particular O, S and / or N, and Pro* corresponding to Proline, an analog or a derived therefrom; including for example Myr-PPL-OH and Myr-PPR-OH.

[0036] Mention may also be made here of the pro-pigmenting and / or pro-MEC dipeptides and tripeptides of general formula X-(Xaal)n-Pro*-Xaa2-Y described in application WO2014 / 080376, with n=0, 1 or 2, Xaal a hydrophobic amino acid chosen from Ala, Val, Met, Leu, Iso, Phe, Pro, and the analogues or derivatives thereof; or a polar amino acid chosen from Ser, Thr, Tyr, Asp, Glu and the derivatives and analogues thereof; and when n=2 the two Xaal amino acids may be identical or different; Xaa2 a hydrophobic amino acid chosen from Ala, Val, Met, Leu, Iso, Phe, and the analogues or derivatives thereof; a basic amino acid chosen from Arg, Lys, His, and the derivatives and analogues thereof; at the N-terminal end of the peptide, X is chosen from H, -CO-R1 and -SO2-R1; at the C-terminal end of the peptide, Y is chosen from OH, OR1, NH2, NHR1 or NR1R2, RI and R2 being, independently of each other, chosen from an alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy group and aryloxy, which may be linear, branched, cyclic, polycyclic, unsaturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, phosphorylated and / or sulfur-containing, said group being able to have in its skeleton a heteroatom in particular O, S and / or N; Pro* corresponding to Proline, an analogue or a derivative thereof; including for example the peptides Pal-SPR, Pal-PPR, Pal-QPA, Pal-LPA, Myr-SPA, Pal-PM, Pal-PA and Pal-PP.

[0037] Tetrapeptide derivatives that may be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, Ela-KTAK (SEQ ID NO: 17), Ela-KAYK (SEQ ID NO: 18), Ela-KFYK (SEQ ID NO: 19), Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 20) or Pal-KTFK (SEQ ID NO: 21). Useful pentapeptide derivatives include, but are not limited to, Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 22), Pal-KTSKS (SEQ ID NO: 23), Pal-YGGFXaa (SEQ ID NO: 24) with Xaa being Leu or Pro. Useful hexapeptide derivatives include, but are not limited to, Pal-HLDIIXaa (SEQ ID NO: 25) with Xaa being Trp, Phe, Tyr, Tic, 7-hydroxy-Tic or Tpi, or a mixture thereof, Pal-GKTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 26), Pal VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO: 27).

[0038] The preferred compositions available commercially and offered by Sederma: - tripeptides or derivatives include in particular Biopeptide-CL™, Maxilip™, or Procapil™ comprising GHK; - tetrapeptides or derivatives include: RIGIN™, Eyeliss™, which contain Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 20) and an excipient; - pentapeptides or derivative such as Matrixyl ™ source of Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: 22). We can also cite: - the mixture Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 20) (Matrixyl™ 3000), and - the mixture Pal-GHK and Pal-VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO: 27) (Biobustyl™).

[0039] The following commercial peptides may also be mentioned as additional active ingredients: - Vialox™, Syn-ake™ (|3-Ala-Pro-Dab-NH-Bzl) or Syn-Coll™ (Pal-Lys-Val-Lys-OH) sold by the company Pentapharm, - Argireline™ (Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2 (SEQ ID NO: 28) (INCI Name = Acetyl hexapeptide-3), Leuphasyl™ (Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu (SEQ ID NO: 29)), Aldenine™ (Gly-His-Lys), Trylagen™ (INCI Name = Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline (product of the reaction of citrulline and Tripeptide-10 (synthetic peptide consisting of aspartic acid, isoleucine and lysine)), Tripeptide-1), Eyeseryl™ (Ac-[3-Ala-His-Ser-His (SEQ ID NO: 30)), Serilesine™ (Ser-Ile-Lys-Val-Ala-Val (SEQ ID NO: 31)) or Decorinyl™ (INCI Name: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline = product from the reaction of Citrulline and Tripeptide-10 (synthetic peptide consisting of aspartic acid, isoleucine and lysine) sold by the company Lipotec, - Collaxyl™ (Gly-Pro-Gln-Gly-Pro-Gln (SEQ ID NO: 32)) or Quintescine™ (Cys-Gly) sold by the company Vincience, - Cytokinol™LS (casein hydrolyzate) sold by Laboratoires Serobio-logiques / Cognis, - Kollaren™ (Gly-His-Lys), IP2000™ (Pal-Val-Tyr-Val) or Meliprene™ sold by the European Institute of Cell Biology, - Neutrazen™ (Pal-His-D-Phe-Arg-NH2) sold by the company Innovations, or - BONT-L-Peptide™, Timp-Peptide™ or ECM Moduline™ (INCI name = Palmitoyl Tripeptide-28: product of the reaction of palmitic acid and Tripeptide-28 (synthetic peptide consisting of arginine, lysine and phenylalanine) sold by the company Infinitec Activos.

[0040] It is also possible to combine the invention with one or more cyclic peptides, in particular those extracted from linseed oil described in the Applicant's patent application FRI850845.

[0041] More specifically, pycnidione can be combined with at least one of the compounds chosen from vitamin compounds, group BC, E, F, D and A in particular, compounds such as niacinamide or tocopherol, retinoid compounds such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, hexamidine, α-lipoic acid, resveratrol, or DHEA, peptides, ceramides, UV or IR filters, chemical or physical, which are conventional active ingredients used in cosmetic topical compositions.

[0042] The present invention also provides the use of pycnidione for the manufacture of a composition for a cosmetic treatment, as described above.

[0043] A composition for use according to the invention may be applied to the face, body, décolleté, hair and scalp in any form or vehicle known to those skilled in the art, defined according to the function and / or the site of application, in particular in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, individually or as a premix, or may be carried individually or as a premix by vectors such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres, or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, macrosponges, microsponges or nanosponges, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines and other supports. mineral or organic.

[0044] In cosmetics in particular, applications can be proposed, in particular in the ranges of care for the skin of the face and / or body and / or hair and / or leather. hair and makeup-care ranges, including eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0045] For example, the form of the composition may be a lotion, a cream, a butter, a milk, a solid form, a mousse, a gel, a deodorant, an antiperspirant, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask, a face mask, a shower gel, etc.

[0046] The formulas may be included in ranges of personal care products and / or beauty products, in particular ranges of skin care, cleansing, makeup, makeup removal, sun care, artificial tanning, pre-shave, shaving, or after-shave, slimming, moisturizing, humectant, emollient, conditioning, exfoliating, astringent, depilatory, antiperspirant or antiperspirant, deodorant, deodorant, perfumes, etc.

[0047] The composition may also be incorporated on a non-woven or woven material, made of natural or synthetic fibers, wool, or on any material intended to come into contact with the skin and which may be used in clothing, in particular tights and socks, shorts, day or night underwear, handkerchiefs, masks, patches or fabrics, in order to exert its cosmetic effect via this skin / textile contact and allow continuous topical delivery (cosmetotextiles).

[0048] In the particular case of a cosmetic hair treatment according to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one surfactant which may be chosen from anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric and / or cationic surfactants.

[0049] Suitable anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, isethionates, acylamides, acylglutamates, alkyl ether carboxylates and alkyl phosphates. The alkyl group preferably comprises between 6 and 30, more preferably between 8 and 20, in particular between 10 and 14, and especially 12 carbon atoms. Alkyl ether sulfates and / or alkyl sulfates are preferred, in particular alkali metals, e.g. their sodium and / or ammonium salts. Lauryl ether sulfate and / or lauryl sulfate are particularly preferred anionic surfactants.

[0050] Suitable nonionic surfactants include fatty alcohol acid or amide ethoxylates, alkanolamides and alkoxylated alkanolamides, monoglyceride ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, alkyl polyglycosides, ethylene glycol monoesters, ethylene glycol diesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Suitable amphoteric surfactants include alkylimino-dipropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkylamphoproprionates, alkylamphoacetates (mono- and di-), N-alkyl beta-aminoproprionic acids, alkylpolyaminocarboxylates, phosphorylated imidazolines and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Suitable cationic surfactants include alkyl quaternaries, benzyl quaternaries, quaternary esters, ethoxylated quaternaries, alkylamines and their mixtures. The alkyl group preferably comprises between 6 and 30, more preferably between 8 and 22, and in particular between 10 and 20 carbon atoms.

[0053] The cationic surfactant may also be a polyquatemium (or polyquat) material. Polyquats include acrylamide and / or dimethylallylamonium chloride-based polymers such as Polyquatemium 6, Polyquatemium 7, etc. Polymeric ammonium quatemium salts of guar gum, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, may be used. Polymeric ammonium quatemium salts of cellulose such as Polyquatemium 10 and the like, and polymeric ammonium quatemium salts of starch, may also be used.

[0054] The hair composition may also contain at least one secondary surfactant. If present, the secondary surfactant may be chosen from a non-ionic, amphoteric, betaine and / or cationic surfactant.

[0055] Suitable betaines include alkyl betaines, alkylamido betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkylamidosultaines and mixtures thereof. Alkylamido betaines are preferred. The alkyl group preferably comprises between 6 and 30, more preferably between 8 and 20, and in particular between 10 and 14 carbon atoms.

[0056] The hair composition may further comprise lubricating agents such as talc, magnesium stearate and mineral oil, wetting agents, emulsifying and suspending agents, preservatives such as methyl- and pro-pylhydroxy-benzoates, sweetening agents and flavoring agents.

[0057] It may include one or more other standard ingredients or carriers commonly used in hair care products, including shine enhancers, moisturizers, herbal additives, hair strengtheners, vitamin additives, colorants, hair thickeners, fixing and styling agents, ultraviolet absorbers, silicone oils, essential oils and perfumes, thickening or viscosity improving agents, detergents, stabilizers, emollients, chelating or sequestering agents, preservatives, disinfectants, antioxidants / free radical scavengers, antistatic agents, conditioning agents, detangling ingredients, emulsifying or dispersing agents, stimulants, softeners, solvents, carrier, and the like.

[0058] It may include additional hair active ingredients, as support or complement to activity, in particular the following active ingredients marketed by Sederma: Active ingredient acting on the scalp: - Apiscalp™: Apium graveolens (celery) seed extract, titrated in senkyunolide and obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction. Its function is to alleviate dandruff and relieve itchy scalp. It moisturizes and reduces sebum production. - Hairspa™: : Association of Lactitol and xylitol in glycerin with the function to soothe and moisturize the scalp. It helps combat scalp discomfort: dryness, itching, dandruff, irritation, by rebalancing the skin microflora. Active ingredient acting on the quality or color of the hair: - FruitBio™: Complex of α-hydroxy acids, obtained by lactic fermentation with the addition of malic and citric acids, combined with green tea extract. This active ingredient smooths the hair cuticles and the green tea softens, for smoother and softer hair. - Heliogenol™: Hydroglycolic extract of sunflower meal titrated in polyphenols. It has strong activity against free radicals. It protects and repairs natural and colored hair against the aggression of shampoo and UV rays. - Ceramide A2™: Chemical analogue of ceramide 2, a natural molecule in hair. Its function is to restructure, smooth and strengthen the hair structure, to restore volume, shine and vigor to damaged hair. - Sylverfree™: Hydroglycerin solution of palmitoyl prolyl proline (Pal-PP). It helps fight hair graying. Active ingredient acting on hair growth: - Capigen™: is composed of homotaurine, which is a synthetic analogue of Taurine, a natural amino acid, a bacterial filtrate rich in peptides and a sulfomucopolysaccharide extract of marine origin. It is a hair tonic stimulant and helps prevent hair loss. - Procapil™: Combination of a vitamin-enriched matrikine (biotinyl-GHK) with apigenin (a natural flavonoid) and naturally occurring oleanolic acid. It strengthens and rejuvenates the hair follicle to slow hair loss. Hair anchoring is promoted by strengthening the metabolism and structure of the follicle. Oleanolic acid inhibits 5a-reductase, apigenin improves microcirculation and biotinyl-GHK stimulates cellular metabolism. - Kelisoft™: Chelidonine, a highly purified plant molecule in an excipient. Its function is to reduce hair growth.

[0059] The hair composition may also comprise an additional anti-dandruff active agent selected from one of the following: nystatin, cuprimyxin, tolnaftate, candicidin, haloprogin, iodochlorohydroxyquine, clotrimazole, undecylenic acid, proprionic acid, caprylic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, griseofulvin, amphotericin B, ketoconazole, miconazole, filipin, hamycin, natamycin, ri-mocidine, bifonazole, butoconazole, econazole, fenticonazole, isoconazole, omo-conazole, oxiconazole, sertaconazole, sulconazole, tioconazole, albaconazole, flu-conazole, isavuconazole, itraconazole, posaconazole, ravuconazole, terconazole, vori-conazole, abafungin, amorolfine, butenafine, naftifine, terbinafine, anidulafungin, caspofungin, micafungin, iclopirox olamine, flucytosine, crystal violet, piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, tar and tea tree oil, preferably selected from ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione (ZPT), piroctone olamine, octopirox, salicylic acid, selenium sulfide, coal tar, azelaic acid, grimpazole, salicylic acid, undecylenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The present invention thus covers a method of cosmetic, non-therapeutic topical treatment for improving the appearance and general condition of the skin and its appendages, as well as its sensory comfort, comprising the topical application to the skin of a subject in need of an effective amount of pycnidione, the treatment being as defined above and in the examples given below. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0061] The present invention will be better understood in light of the detailed description which follows of exemplary embodiments.

[0062] 1- Example of preparation of an extract containing pycnidione

[0063] Microorganism used: strain of Neosetophoma cerealis which can be obtained from the central office for fungal biodiversity (“Centraalbureau voor Schimmel-cultures”, CBS). A pre-inoculum step is performed using cryopreserved spores or mycelium inoculated into a pre-inoculum-specific culture medium (medium that contains a gelling agent, sugar, and nitrogen in the form of peptone or yeast extract). Several pre-inoculum steps are performed to amplify the biomass. When the pre-inoculum has grown sufficiently, the biomass produced is used to inoculate the bioreactor in a culture medium based on rice and microelements. In the bioreactor, also called a producer, the biomass is amplified with the concomitant production of pycnidione. After 7 days of cultivation in the producer, pycnidione production is maximum. The biomass is then harvested using a solid / liquid separation technique such as centrifugation, decantation by centrifugation, or filtration through a filter press. The supernatant is removed. The biomass thus harvested is mixed with a solvent intended to form a physiologically acceptable excipient, consisting of a mixture (20 / 80 w / w) of pentylene glycol (PTG) and butylene glycol (BG), with stirring for 1 h at 60°C to extract the pycnidione in this excipient. After extraction, cellular debris is removed by clarification using a known solid / liquid separation technique, as mentioned above. Analysis of the dry extract makes it possible to determine a final concentration in the extract of total tropolones of 1200 ppm, including approximately 1100 ppm of pycnidione, the target active molecule according to the invention, and the remainder of the tropolones comprising in particular Epolone A and Epolone B.

[0064] 2- Example of preparation of an active ingredient for the treatment according to the invention

[0065] The PTG / BG extract prepared in point 1 below, comprising a physiologically acceptable excipient, constitutes an active ingredient which can be used in a cosmetic formula at a % by weight defined according to the desired effect, more or less pronounced, as explained above in the description. Different cosmetic formulas using this cosmetic ingredient are described further in the description in point 4. 3- In vitro efficacy tests

[0066] The tests were carried out with either the dry extract of the biomass prepared in point 1 above diluted in DMSO, or pure pycnidione (at approximately 82%) also diluted in DMSO. The ppm indicated in the tables below correspond to the ppm of the pycnidione molecule.

[0067] All statistical analyses were performed with a student t-test (t-test) to determine the significance of the results of pairwise comparisons (control versus treated).

[0068] 3.1- Stimulation of hyaluronic acid synthesis

[0069] Hyaluronic acid is an essential constituent of the skin. It is present in the dermis and epidermis and thanks to its unusual three-dimensional structure, it is able to capture a thousand times its weight in water and thus occupy a very large volume compared to its molecular weight. The intracellular spaces of the extracellular matrix are filled with water-swollen hyaluronic acid, which gives the skin good viscoelastic properties. By stimulating the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, hydration is maintained or increased for more resilient and elastic skin, with a smoother texture and a more comfortable feel, without tingling or tightness.

[0070] Protocol:

[0071] Human keratinocytes (KH) are cultured to sub-confluence and then brought into contact with the active ingredient according to the invention. Following this contact, the synthesis of hyaluronic acid is evaluated using an ELIS A type assay. An estimation of the quantity of cells by the Hoechst method makes it possible to homogenize the results. Results

[0072] Variation in the production of hyaluronic acid by keratinocytes compared to control.

[0073] [Tables 1] Pycnidione (ppm) Variation (%); significance Control / Reference Extract 0.3 +347%; p<0.01 1 +314%; p<0.01 3 +422%; p<0.01 Purified pycnidione 1 +87%; p<0.01 5 +110%; p<0.01 10 +129%; p<0.01

[0074] The results show that pycnidione significantly increases the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in keratinocytes.

[0075] 3.2- Strengthening of the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ)

[0076] The JDE ensures cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis. During aging of the skin, whether normal or accelerated by external factors, there is a decrease in the synthesis of the components of the JDE, in particular laminins and collagen VII, leading to disorganization with repercussions on the elasticity and resilience of the skin and the loss of its dynamism. Protocol

[0077] KH are cultured to sub-confluence and then placed or not (for control cases) in contact with the active ingredient according to the invention. Following this contact, the synthesis of collagen VII and laminins is evaluated using ELISA kits. An estimation of the quantity of cells by Hoechst method allows the results to be standardized. Results

[0078] Variation in the production of laminins and collagen VII by keratinocytes compared to the control:

[0079] [Tables2] Pycnidione (ppm) Laminins Variation (%); significance Collagen VII Variation (%); significance Control / Reference Reference Extract 0.3 +70%; p<0.01 +98%; p<0.01 1 +79%; p<0.01 +52%; p<0.01 3 + 132%; p<0.01 +59%; p<0.01

[0080] The results show that pycnidione significantly increases the production of laminins and collagen VII in keratinocytes. 3.3- Anti-glycation:

[0081] The human body needs sugar to produce its energy. However, the sugar that is consumed is never used in its entirety by the body for this beneficial purpose. A residual part of this absorbed sugar will react non-enzymatically with the amino groups of proteins, nucleic acids or lipids to create advanced glycation products, called glycotoxins or AGEs for "Advanced Gly-cosylated End-products" in English (AGEs), which accumulate over time in the tissues. The glycated molecules see their functional, enzymatic and structural properties altered and this has consequences on the proper functioning of the cells or the body.

[0082] In the skin, AGEs are found not only in the dermis but also in the epidermis, up to the stratum corneum. Tissues are affected more when their proteins have a long lifespan, such as collagen, elastin, fibronectin and laminins. This has the consequence of altering the mechanical and elastic properties of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the dermis, which becomes less flexible, more rigid, but also more flaccid and less reactive.

[0083] Furthermore, within skin cells, mitochondrial proteins are also glycated, which causes decreases in the efficiency of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production and a deficiency in energy production.

[0084] AGEs therefore represent a major source of cellular dysfunction and their accumulation tends to alter the properties and performance of tissues and cells: reduced flexibility, reduced mobility, reduced reactivity, reduced energy production. On the face, glycation leaves its mark, for example, dark circles under the eyes, swollen bags, dull complexion and drawn features, less reactive, tired, flabby skin. A study has also shown that the quantity of AGEs and hair quality are linked. A reduction in protein content and an increase in AGEs content imply poorer quality hair with a decrease in resistance to breakage.

[0085] Glycation therefore visually translates on the skin into the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, dull, flabby, lackluster skin, a tired appearance, skin lacking tone and suppleness, and on the hair into poorer quality hair, split ends and brittleness. Protocol

[0086] The study of non-enzymatic glycation is carried out between a model protein, serum albumin, which serves as a target and an edible reducing sugar from fruits. protein is progressively glycated (linked to sugar) irreversibly, in the presence or absence of the product according to the invention. This modification is monitored by fluorescence. Results

[0087] Variation in AGE production compared to control:

[0088] [Tables3] Pycnidione (ppm) Variation (%); significance Control / Reference Extract 1 -32.8%; p<0.01 3 -65.5%; p<0.01 6 -87.6%; p<0.01

[0089] The results show the strong anti-glycating potential of pycnidione.

[0090] 3.4- Decrease in the synthesis of pro-inflammatory molecules:

[0091] The skin is subjected to constant stress (exposure to UV rays, smoke, pollutants, etc.), some of which cause a direct or indirect inflammatory response. The uncontrolled or constant inflammatory response, although of low intensity, leads to the production of cytokines intended to attract or stimulate other cells, which causes cascading reactions. The pro-inflammatory microenvironment thus formed leads to a modification of the homeostasis of the skin and gradually leads to the modification or even destruction of the biomolecules of cells and tissues. It also leads to the disruption of the integrity of the skin barrier. Thus, the mediators of inflammation, IL-6 and IL-8, are known to induce premature aging phenomena via micro-inflammations. In addition, sensitive and irritated skin is characterized by an abnormally high secretion of these cytokines. By reducing the production of these cytokines following stress, the invention demonstrates a preventive anti-inflammatory effect. The cells are better protected. From a cosmetic point of view, the treatment according to the invention helps prevent discomfort, such as tightness, and unsightliness, such as micro-redness of the skin, for example due to external aggressions such as pollution, radiation or cold. Protocol

[0092] Normal human keratinocytes (NHK) are seeded and placed in contact or not with the active ingredient to be tested at different concentrations for 48 hours and are irradiated with UVB. Non-irradiated plates are treated in parallel. The quantities of IL-6 and IL-8 synthesized are measured in the culture supernatants by ELISA assays. An estimation of the viability of the cells is carried out at the end of culture using Hoechst labeling on fixed cell lawns (estimation of the number of cells). Results

[0093] Variation in IL-6 and IL-8 synthesis after keratinocyte stress compared to control:

[0094] [Tables4] Pycnidione (ppm) IL-6 Variation (%); significance IL-8 Variation (%); significance Control / Reference Reference Extract 0.3 -47%; p<0.01 / 1 -49%; p<0.05 -47%; p<0.01

[0095] The results show that pycnidione induces a decrease in IL-6 and IL-8 synthesis after stress (UVB condition).

[0096] 3.5- Decrease in intracellular production of oxygenated free radicals (RLO):

[0097] It is now recognized that it is essentially the accumulation of oxygenated free radicals that is at the origin of the biochemical disorders themselves responsible for aging. Whether they are generated by UV rays (via a complex cascade of reactions), by the various pollutants that interact with the skin chronically or by natural aging, these free radicals will cause skin inflammation punctually and over a short period of time, and throughout the body and over a longer period of time, skin aging. Under so-called normal conditions, on young, healthy skin that is relatively protected from external aggressions, there is a balance between the production of oxygenated free radicals in the body and the antioxidant defenses responsible for neutralizing them. These defense systems are the result of either enzymes (SOD, catalane, glutathione peroxidase), or classic antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, glutathione, carotene, etc.). When an imbalance occurs between production and neutralization, there is an overabundance of oxygenated free radicals causing oxidative stress. This will result in damage to DNA, proteins and cellular lipids, which will undergo oxidation, causing alterations in their structure and function. This results in the appearance of signs of premature aging, damage to the dermis and epidermis with loss of their mechanical and viscoelastic properties, thinning of the skin, sagging of the skin, fine lines, wrinkles, spots, etc. Protocol

[0098] Normal human fibroblasts (NHF) are seeded and placed in contact with the product for 24 hours. After removal of the active ingredient, the cells are rinsed and are loaded with the DCFH-DA probe, which becomes fluorescent, after metabolization by cellular enzymes, in the presence of RLO. This fluorescence is further increased when a stress agent (H2O2) is applied to the cells. An active product will reduce the basal and induced fluorescence (production of RLO). An estimation of cell viability is carried out in parallel using Hoechst labeling (DNA intercalating reagent). Results

[0099] Variation in RLO synthesis by fibroblasts compared to control, with and without oxidative stress:

[0100] [Tables5] Pycnidione (ppm) Unstressed case Variation (%); significance Stressed case (H2O2) Variation (%); significance Control / Reference Reference Extract 0.1 -44%; p<0.01 -42%; p<0.01 0.3 -33%; p<0.01 -54%; p<0.01 1 -57%; p<0.01 -69%; p<0.01

[0101] Pycnidione significantly decreases without dose effect the generation of reactive oxygen species (RLO) following H2O2 stress but also basally (unstressed condition). Pycnidione helps combat the appearance of intracellular RLOs known for their involvement in skin aging. 3.6- Anti-Lipoperoxidation:

[0102] Lipoperoxidation or lipid peroxidation corresponds to the peroxidation of the lipid membranes which surround cells and mitochondria, leading to their weakening and the generation of oxygenated free radicals by autocatalysis, amplifying the damage. Protocol

[0103] Lipid peroxidation is assessed using a test to monitor the occurrence of peroxidation (measurement of the quantity of conjugated dienes formed) of lipid membranes in the form of liposomes after oxidizing UVA radiation. Reduction by an antioxidant is sought. The product is put into this test after irradiation. Results

[0104] Variation of lipoperoxidation compared to control:

[0105] [Tableauxô] Pycnidione (ppm) Variation (%); significance Control / Reference Extract 0.3 -51% \p<0.01 1 -61%; p<0.01 3.33 -82%; p<0.01 Purified pycnidione 5 -65%; p<0.01 10 -84%; p<0.01

[0106] The results show the strong potential of pycnidione to counter lipoperoxidation and therefore its harmful effects on cell membranes and their dynamism.

[0107] 3.7- Slowing down the proliferation of C. acnes:

[0108] The skin microbiota, a very complex ecosystem composed of a set of living microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts, viruses and parasites), has several functions: role of defense, skin barrier and regulator of the immune system. It is important to protect its balance by preventing, for example, that certain species by developing excessively cause damage to the skin. This is the case, for example, of C. acnes (Cutibacterium acnes), the acne bacterium. The latter, although part of the normal microflora of the skin, by multiplying too quickly, will promote the proliferation and migration of keratinocytes, participate in the formation of radical species such as superoxide dismutase and cause a cascade of reactions which results in the production of pro-inflammatory molecules and thus contribute to the development of acne.

[0109] By slowing down or inhibiting the growth of C.acnes, the epidermis is protected against acne. This effect is particularly interesting for cosmetic treatment of so-called oily and acne-prone skin. This type of skin often corresponds in adolescence to oily skin due to excess sebum for hormonal reasons. By preventing or limiting the proliferation of the C.acnes bacteria, the appearance of waste in the hair sheath in the hair follicle is prevented, where the bacteria develops anaerobically by feeding on this sebum and producing waste, in particular dead cells, then leading to obstruction of the hair follicle sheath (blackheads), inflammation and finally acne spots, the treatment of which is a matter of dermatology. Reducing the quantity of C.acnes therefore makes it possible to avoid the development of a pro-acne state.

[0110] Protocol Suspensions of C. acnes of equivalent density are cultured in a suitable medium in the presence (test case) or absence (control case) of the product to be tested, under anaerobic conditions, at 37°C. After 48 to 72 hours of incubation, the growth of the bacterial population is measured by reading the optical density (OD) at 600nm. Results

[0111] Variation in the proliferation of C. acnes compared to the control:

[0112] [Tables8] Pycnidione (ppm) Variation (%); significance Control / Reference Extract 1.88 -101% -,p<0.01 3.75 -100%; p<0.01 7.5 -100%; p<0.01 15 -99%; p<0.01 30 -99%; p<0.01 Purified Pycnidione 1 -57%; p<0.01 4 -99%; p<0.01 8 -101%; p<0.01

[0113] The results show that pycnidione induces a significant slowdown in the proliferation of C. acnes bacteria responsible for a pro-acne state. 4- Examples of cosmetic formulas

[0114] Different cosmetic formulas are described below. Additional active ingredients, where appropriate supporting and / or complementing the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention, may be added in the appropriate phase depending on their hydrophobic or hydrophilic nature. These ingredients may be of any category depending on their function, the place of application (body, face, neck, bust, hands, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, etc.), the desired final effect and the targeted consumer, for example an anti-oxidant, moisturizing, nourishing, protective, smoothing, remodeling, volumizing, acting on the radiance of the complexion, anti-spot, anti-dark circle, anti-glycation, slimming, soothing, muscle relaxant, anti-redness, anti-stretch mark, etc. They are mentioned above in the description.

[0115] Ingredient according to the invention: ingredient prepared in paragraph 2) above (extract prepared in vitro containing approximately 1 lOOppm of pycnidione in a mixture of butylene glycol and pentylene glycol).

[0116] Recommended effective quantity of ingredient: for example between 1% and 15%, preferably between 1% and 10%, more preferably between approximately 1% and 5%, which corresponds to between approximately 10 ppm and 60 ppm of pycnidione, shown as 3% (approximately 35 ppm) in the example formulas below.

[0117] 4.1- Light cream formula, suitable for the face

[0118] [Tables9] Ingredient / NCI Name Function % w / w Part A: Water (Deionized Water) Qsp 105 Sodium Benzoate Preservative Potassium Benzoate Preservative 9a Part B: Glycerin Humectant 4.00 Butylene Glycol Humectant 5.80 Gum CG-SFTj Rheology Modifier 8.50 Satal™ vpc §14 (gtoteSoœ, Rheology Modifier. 8.50 Part C AIS 4C SE Emulsifier H / O 1.50 Èrxh 85 Esters! Emollient 1.50 utçdJ'ÇO' ' GTE, Emollient 4.80 Qrod^mîp' GTCC £apn^.C'apnc Triglyceride) Emollient 1.80 rs Oïl CrçjQic''* iPrum Amygrto Ce os Eye Emollient 3.50 Tocopiærol Antioxidant CAD Part^eD: Diionized Water (Aqua) - 1.30 AGfdsladïqæ pH Adjuster 0.13 Part E: active ingredient according to 1 invention 3.50 Part F (optional): CfTYSTEM-”' (Glycerin (and) Vulgare Extact) Anti-poteon active 2.80 Preparation :

[0119] Weigh Part A. Weigh and mix Part B. Slowly add Part B to Part A while stirring and mix well for 30 min. Heat Part A+B to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh and heat Part C to 75°C in a water bath. Add Part C to Part A+B while stirring vigorously. Add Part D to Part A+B+C until approximately 45°C. Add Part E to the previous part while stirring. Add Part F, if applicable, to the previous part and mix well. The result is a light, non-sticky cream that can be used, for example, as a facial cream for a relaxing massage application. 4.2- Cream formula suitable for a day cream IngredientName INGî Function % w / w Part A: Deonized Water (Aqua) - gsg 100 Sodium Benzoate Preservative 0.30 Potassium Benzoate Preservative 0.30 Part B: Glycerin Humectant 4M Xanthan Gum (Xanthan Gum FFCS-PC™) Thickening Agent 0.40 Sodium Benzoate Thickening Agent 0.25 Part C: GTCC (CaprytoCapric Triglyceride) Emollient 7.00 XT-300 (Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aminamide) Sunscreen 5.00 FSS Rice Powder îQn^Sativa (Rice) Powder 2.00 Span7® Sû GM <ate) Émulsifiant 1,80 Span^ P^mitate) Émulsifiant 1,20 T&cophérd Antioxydant 0,20 Partie D : Eau désionisée (Aqua) - 1 50 Acide tactique Ajusteur de pH 0,15 Partie E : ingrédient actif selon F invention 3,00 Partie F : optionnelle (Water (Aqua) (and) CapryMC^ric Triglycéride (and) p§JylPalmâate (and) Saddam Stéarate (and) Pdysofbate 80 (and) Hydrogenated Ledîhin (and) Palmitayi T&àapeptide-W) Ingrédient actif améliorant la transparence et fécial du teint 3,00 . Preparation :

[0121] Weigh Part A, mix well under normal stirring. Weigh and mix Part B. Pour Part B into Part A under normal stirring for one hour. Heat Part A+B to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh and heat Part C to 75°C in a water bath. Add Part C to Part A+B, stirring quickly. Weigh and add Part D to the previous part at about 45°C, mix well. Weigh and add Part E to the previous part, mix well. If applicable, weigh and add Part F, to the previous part, mix well.

[0122] A white opaque cream with a light and soft touch is obtained, which can be used for daytime care. The active ingredient Crystalide® is used where appropriate to support activity to help repair the skin and give a radiant complexion.

[0123] 4.3- Cream formula, suitable for oily, acne-prone skin Ingrétot'Nom INC! Function % pfp Part A: Deionized Water (Aqua) - Preservative tUÜ Sodium Suite o® Part B: Humectant 5.GD Preservative æ. Xanfôæ® Gum Rheology Modifier fi 30 Guar Range Rheology Modifier D 3U Part C: MCA Emulsifier 2® Brij™ 82 (Steareth-2) Emulsifier 1® ^â^'TSi 170 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-WO Stearate) ÉRWÎSfett •3® Stearic Acid Structuring Agent 2.50 Silicone Emaifert (3® ® (C12-15 Md Benzoate) Emollient 5® Part D: Deionized Water (Àqua) - s® Sodium Hydr^® 30% pH Adjuster 0® Part E: Active ingredient according to the invention 3® Part F (optional): FRUITS 10 (Water (and) Lad» acid (and) Camellta Snensis Isa! Exlrad (and) Gîycenn (and) Citric add (and) M^c acid)5 Smoothing active tco Preparation :

[0125] Weigh Part A and mix. Weigh and mix Part B. Add Part B to Part A, stirring for 1 hour. Heat Part A+B to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh and heat Part C to 75°C in a water bath. Add Part C to Part A+B, stirring vigorously. Weigh and mix Part D. Add Part D to the previous part, mixing well. Add Part E, mixing well. If applicable, add Part F, mixing well.

[0126] The result is an opaque, off-white viscous cream suitable for oily skin thanks to its dry feel and rapid absorption. The combination with the Fruitbio™ ingredient allows for the addition of a gentle chemical exfoliant to further smooth the skin's texture. 4.4- Cream formula, suitable for hands Ingrédieut / Nam INC! Fonction %p / p Partie A : Eau dêsmséë (Âqua) - qsp 100 solide potassium Consefvatw 0,10 Parties : Glycérins Humectant 4,00 E-LEEN GC (Capryiyl Glycd (and) Giyœïyl Caprylate Humectant 2,00 Gomme- de sdérde Modificateur de rhéologie 0,50 Gamme {Xamhan Go FNCS-PC^ Modihcatéur de rhéoiçgie ü.ôü Partie C : SP Jrdwlgk; ^BAL (Captyfc / Capnc T'aglwide) Efficient 7,00 wan d&NP 2-y^dC' ! Actif 1,00 Partie D : SP GTCC MBÀUCapryfc / Capncd^ Éraolent 5,00 SP ^AL Agent épaississant 4,00 S- SparP' 30 WL.wyar 3alr tate Tensio-actif 1,80 SP SparP 40 MBAL (Soàiian Stéarate) Tensio-actif 1,20 Partie E: Eau désfontsée (Agita) - 0,50 Additive pH Adjuster 0.05 Part F: ingFédtent actif selon l'invention 3.00 Preparation:

[0128] Weigh Part A and mix under normal stirring. Weigh and mix Part B. Pour Part B into Part A under normal stirring for one hour. Activate Part A+B by stirring vigorously for 1 min. Add Part C into Part A+B, stir well. Heat Part A+B+C to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh and heat Part D to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh and add Part E well to Part D before creating the emulsion. Add Part D+E to the previous part, mix well under rapid stirring. Weigh and mix Part F. Add Part F to the previous part at about 45°C, mix well. Weigh and add Part G, to the previous part, mix well. Weigh and add Part H, to the previous part, mix well.

[0129] A cream is obtained which is perfectly suited to the treatment of dry hands thanks to the ingredient according to the invention and the additional association with a ceramide, a natural lipid constituent of the skin.

[0130] 4.5- Cream formula, suitable for face and neck IngredientVNam !NC1 Function % w / w Part A: Deionized Water (Aqua) - & potassium Preservative Sodium Sulfite Antioxidant & Part B: Glycerin Humectant 4.00 Preservative KqltrcJ PT bFT Gum) Rheology Modifier 0.30 Rheology Modifier 0.15 ParteC: ç^^cootc^^^) Emulsion Stabilizer 1.50 SS M Esters) Emollient 2.00 HRC Demulsfon Stabilizer 150 60 Co-emutei^ni HÆ 1.00 SpanT® 40 Paimitates Co-emufeitiam HÆ 1.50 QiM74' GMFS 40 (MMW Co4mdsfent EH 2.50 ISIS Emollient 8.00 Çrdpmçi™ GTCC (Capr^ic .'Capnc Tnqhcerkte) Emollient 5.00 S^tors Aimœd Œ Qrganic (Prunus Amygdalus Dite or Emollient 2.00 u^nitqp'GTiSiJnW^ Emollient 2.00 U Alpha Anfoxydsnt 0.10 iCapryfe'Caprtc Triglyceride (and) HjolB Lupulus (Haps) Strcbiie) 2.00 Part D: Ingredient according to the invention Active 3.00 Part E; optional MAJESTES (Glycerin (and) Leoniopodium Atpinum Câiius Culture Extract (and) Xanthan Gum) Lifting active: neck and face 2.00 Preparation :

[0132] Weigh Part A. Weigh and mix Part B. Slowly add Part B to Part A while stirring and mix well for 30 min. Heat Part A+B to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh and heat Part C to 75°C in a water bath. Add Part C to Part A+B while stirring vigorously. Add Part D to Part A+B+C while stirring. If necessary, add Part E to the previous part while stirring. Mix well during the cooling phase.

[0133] A pale yellow cream is obtained, ideal for the face and neck, which is quickly absorbed by the skin.

[0134] 4.6- Cream formula, suitable for a day cream for the décolleté Ingredient / Name Function % pjp Part A: Deionized Water (Aqua) - Potassium Chloride Preservative Part B: Glycerin Humectant 4M ctor Emollient OOP (and} Ca^lyl GKlCh t and} Humectant 1.50 Rheology Modifier 0.50- Gc titre Xarnan Gum FXC'o PC1 Rheology Modifier 0.50 Part C: SP ?y18AL (Capryfc / Capric Emit 7.00 -3® MBAL (Titanium Dioxide (and) Capryfc / Capric Wyœnde (and] Acid (and} Stesric Acid (and) Atoina) Sunscreen 5.00 SP Span^ 60 MBÀL (Sort^an Pdmüate) Surfactant 1.50 SP Span™ 40 MBAL (Setten Stearate) Surfactant ew: Part D: White ER^ (Kaolin) Absorbent Agent 5.00 Part E: Deionized Water (Aqua) - IM Mique Acid pH Adjuster OJG Part F: Active ingredient according to invention 3.00 Part G: Optional MBAL (G^cenn i®d) Water (and) Bur> «ene Glyœi (and) Carbomer (andi Pnlvsoribate 20 (ædi Palmtol PerJapeptide-4) anti-wrinkle active ingredient 3.00 Preparation :

[0136] Weigh Part A and mix under normal stirring. Weigh and mix Part B. Pour Part B into Part A under normal stirring for one hour. Activate Part A+B by stirring vigorously for 1 min. Weigh Part C. Add Part C into Part A+B, stir well. Heat Part A+B+C to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh and heat Part D to 75°C in a bain-marie. Weigh and add Part E to Part D before creating the emulsion. Add Part D+E to the previous part, mix well while stirring rapidly. Weigh and add Part F to the previous part, mix well. Weigh and add Part G to the previous part, mix well.

[0137] An opaque cream emulsion with a soft and light texture is obtained, quickly absorbed by the skin, suitable for a large area such as the décolleté. 4.7- Cream lotion formula

[0138] [Tablesl5] Ingredient 1HCI Function % w / w Part A: SP GTCC (Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) 16.50 Emollient 1638 (Polyglyceryl-3-Pg[yjj^^ (and) Sorbitan Oleate) Emulsifier W / H 3.00 SW-ST PG3PR (Polyglyceryl-3-Pg[yjj^^ (and) Sorbitan Oleate) Emulsifier W / H 3.00 Parts: Dehydrated Water (Aqua) 100 Sodium Chloride Salt Sodium Benzoate Preservative 100mg Potassium Chloride Preservative 0.30 Part C: Active ingredient according to the invention 3.00 Part D (optional): Lupeane** ]$< x Ferment Extract (and) WakrAguai tgrdt Rcpaned 3 (and) 13¼½ XjctM, Energizing Active 3.00 Part E: Deionized Water (Aqua) - 0.50 Tactic Acid pH Adjuster 0.05 Preparation :

[0139] Weigh Part A, mix well under normal stirring. Weigh and mix Part B. Add Part C to Part B, stir well. Weigh and add Part D to B+C, mix well. Weigh Part E, mix well. Adjust the pH of B+C+D to pH + / -5.40 with Part E, mix well. Slowly add Part B+C+D+E into Part A, stirring rapidly.

[0140] A white opaque fluid emulsion is obtained, forming a super concentrated lotion comparable to an E / O emulsion with a rich creamy feel. 4.8- Hydrogel formula Ingredient / Name INC! Function %w / w Part A: Deionized Water (Aqua) - Potassium Preservative Part s: Humectant / WtU0 Glycerin Humectant 10.00 Gum t+tere * Ke cege 1: G HA Rheology Modifier 0.60 Gum w ot gt "A Rheology Modifier tw Gum (KAtro Ce V Theology Modifier 0.30 Preservative a Part C: CÂB-30 (Aqua (and) Betame) Tenste-actit 0.50 Part D: Ingredient seten nnVention 3.00 Part E (optionnelie): (ThemiusJ^!^^ Glyœrin) AcSf protecting against damage caused by UV and IR radiation 3.00: Preparation :

[0142] Heat part A to 80°C in a water bath with stirring for 1 hour. Weigh part B and mix well. Slowly add part B to part A with stirring at 80°C in a water bath. Allow part A+B to heat to 80°C for 1 hour in a water bath with stirring. Add part C to part A+B in a water bath at 80°C. Add part D to part A+B+C and mix well. Add part E if necessary and mix well. Pour immediately into the molds, at a warm temperature.

[0143] A hydrogel is obtained capable of providing an instant refreshing and soothing sensation while the active ingredient(s) act in depth to soothe and protect the skin over the long term. The addition of Crodateric CAB 30™ as a mild surfactant allows the skin to be gently cleansed with water at the end of use. 4.9- Concentrated serum formula Ingredient Name Function %w / w Part A: Deionized Water (Aqua) Qsp 100 FL (Acetylate$B&hefæth-25 Methacrylate- Copolymer) Diethylamine Modifier 1.50 Potassium Preservative 0.10 Part B: Glycerin Humectant W,Ü9 E mollic rt OOP (and) Caprylyl GW GM Antimicrobial 1.50 Range of SdcrGte Thickening Agent w Gum x^t^ Range FFCS-PC^) Thickening Agent 0.80 Gum Gihi Eyamqpsç S® Thickening Agent 0.50 Part C: aw Emollient 2.00 Part D: Deionized Water (Aqua) - 1.50 Sodium Hydroxide 30% pH Adjuster EC Part E: Active ingredient as per fwétto 3.00 Part F (optional): (Glycerin (and) (and) Rmw Offcinafe (Rcsemary) Leaf Extract (and) Palmitoyi Teteapeptîde-7 (and) Chrysin) Active ingredient fighting against the signs of skin itch linked in particular to exposure to bright light 2.00 Preparation :

[0145] Weigh Part A, mix well under normal stirring. Weigh and mix Part B. Pour Part B into Part A under normal stirring for one hour. Weigh and add Part C into Part A+B, under rapid stirring. Weigh Part D, mix well. Add Part D to the previous part, stir well. Weigh and add Part E to the previous part, mix well. If applicable, weigh and add Part F to the previous part, mix well.

[0146] An emulsion is obtained forming a super concentrated serum which resembles a gel and has the feel of a rich cream. In combination, the ingredient according to the invention and the Synchrolife™ ingredient provide a complete regenerating night care. Ingredient / Name INC! Function %pfp Part A: GTCC (Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) Emollient 25..00 ÇistoP1 iPis ÉmcBrt 1SÆ8 to»'1' hrc ( WW Structuring agent 5.80 XT-300 (Titanium Dioxide (and) Captée / Capnc Tngiyceride (and) M) Stearic Acid (and) Akima) Sunscreen 5.00 CW^K' SSA (Dæd [ggeælMM Mfat Emollient 1.00 Part B: Talc Excipient Siiiœ(§y^ Structuring agent wcû Mica Structuring agent 5> Kaolin Structuring agent 3.00 Part C: Span^20(§p^^^) Emulsifier w Deionized Water (Aqua) - IM LC 188 (Cl 77492) Colorant 0.40 potassium Preservative lÔMê BS» LC 889 (Cl 77007 (and) Kaoin) Colorant 0.05 Part D: Ingredient according to the invention 3> Part E: optional Active ingredient for the eye contour 1.50 Preparation :

[0148] Weigh Part A and heat to about 65°C. Weigh Part B. Add it to Part A and mix well while stirring. Weigh Part C and add it to Part A+B while stirring. Weigh Part C and add it to the previous part at 50°C. Weigh and add Part D. Mix well. If necessary, weigh and add Part E, mix well. Pour immediately into the pot.

[0149] An opaque beige paste is obtained which can be used as a concealer and as a screen against urban pollution.

[0150] 4.11- Cream formula, suitable for daytime care of the eye contour Ingredients Name INCt Function % w / w Part A: Dehydrated Water (Aqua) - gsp 100 Sodium Chloride Potassium Salt Preservative 0.30 Sodium Benzoate Preservative 0.30 Tactic Acid pH Adjuster 0.05 Part B: Active ingredient according to Hnvenëon 3.00 Part C: ÉSSWO.''' (Clycerin (and) Water (and) Leaf EXiract) Active ingredient acting on sagging skin 3.00 Part D: (Capsicum / CapncTngtycetidej Emollient 6.00 iQ^careî Hiamia OTT (Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprtiic ? Capric Certes (and) (and) Stearic Acid (and) Amma) Sunscreen 5.00 SP 1690 M8AL (Sortto Polyglyœryi-3 F^^notea^ Emulsifier BH 3.00 FSS race Polder (Rsœj ^®) Powder 3.00 Emollient 3.00 ISIS Emotat 2.00 Sp®iw 80 (^fen 9MQ) Co-emulsifier 1.00 Tœophertl Antioxidant 0.20 Preparation :

[0152] Weigh and mix Part A with stirring. Weigh Part B. Add Part B to Part A with normal stirring. If applicable, weigh Part C. Add Part C to Part A+B and mix well. Weigh Part D. Weigh Part D and mix well with normal stirring. Add Part A+B+(C) to Part D with rapid stirring and mix well.

[0153] The result is an opaque, off-white viscous cream, perfectly suited to eye contour care, firming and illuminating this area. The FeminageTM active ingredient reinforces the treatment by acting on sagging skin. Ingredient INQ Function % w / w Part A: Deionized Water (Aqua) - QsplOO Sodium Benzoate Preservative O Potassium Preservative 0J0 Parts: Sodium Citrate pH Adjuster 1.50 Citric Acid pH Adjuster 1.05 Parts: P SB (Water (and) Hydroxyzed Pea Protem) Conditioning Agent Q.55 Part D: Humectant 5> ECO 20 Surfactant 3.00 Part E: Ingredient according to the invention 3.0Q Part F (optional): BB-BtenF® (dvcerin (and) Aqua (and) Palmitc^ P®ntàpepfete-4) Smoothing Agent Preparation :

[0155] Weigh Part A. Weigh and mix Part B. Pour Part B into Part A with normal stirring. Weigh and add Part C into Part A+B, stir well. Weigh and add Part D to the previous part, mix well. Weigh and mix Part E. Add Part E to the previous part, mix well. If applicable, weigh and add Part F to the previous part, mix well.

[0156] The result is a clear, pale yellow liquid that can be used as a spray with a light texture. The addition of the BB-Biont™ ingredient also helps regulate the microbiome and smooth out acne marks. The formula is particularly suitable for application to treat skin that has worn a mask. 4.13- Lotion formula, suitable for the body Ingredient / Hcm INGI Function % w / w Part A: De-ionized Water (Aqua) - w too Potassium Sprbat^ Preservative 0.10 Part B: Glycerin Humectant 4.00 Enæfêent DCP (and) Capryiyl Giycoi (and)P§^g§,Gly^ Antimicrobial 150 Sderot Gum {Am^q^ Rheology Modifier (W Gum JæiKJâ (Xanthan Gum FNCS-PC-'^ Rheology Modifier 0..20 Part C: GtcdamgP1 LIS Emollient 4 00 SP G^hrcr'; G* h +1Æ ÆhL ,Gh vd Stearate SE) Emulsifier 3.50 SP GTCC MBAL (Captylic / Capnc Triglyceride} Emollient 20.0 F coding^™ GTIS Emollient 2.00 jXt t,> GM1S 40 [^stearat^ Emulsifier 1.00 S? Thickening agent 1.00 Part D: Deionized water (Aqua) - 1.00 Lactic acid pH adjuster 0.10 Part E: Active ingredient according to the invention 3.00 Part F: optional Wylene Glyœl (and) Hair growth retarding active 100 Preparation :

[0158] Weigh Part A, mix well. Heat Part A to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh Part B, mix well. Add Part B to Part A with rapid stirring for one hour at 75°C in a water bath. Mix Part A+B with very vigorous stirring for 1 minute. Weigh and heat Part C to 75°C in a water bath. Add Part C to Part A+B with vigorous stirring. Weigh Part D, mix well. Adjust pH =5.80+ / -0.10 with Part D, at approximately 45°C, mix well. Add Part E to the previous part, mix well. If applicable, add Part F to the previous part, mix well.

[0159] An opaque fluid cream with a fresh and silky texture is obtained. It can be used as an after-hair removal lotion, for example, in combination with the ingredient Kelisoft™ anti-hair regrowth active ingredient. 4.14- Solid stick formula (“stick”)

[0160] [Tables22] IngredientVName INCt Function %w / w Part A: Structuring agent Su; jcvraV1' H RC Jnbgl Structuring Agent 7.00 Water Stabilizer 2.00 pruqcXeterçpt PüRE^E _ T™ (CaprylicfCapnc Triglyceride {æcj ccitnan Trideate tard) Apàan Graveota (Celery) Seed Exlract (and) Unum Seed Exfract) Skin Texture Regenerating Active Ingredient 3.00 Part B: CT-3001 Tdan iw Dwde tandj CapnhcCapric 7iq «eide (and) f Acd iandl Stearate (and) Alunæa) Clear Inorganic UVB Filter Part C: Butylene Glycol Humectant Preservative 0.80 Suç^se Stearate Emulsifier 3.00 Part D: Butylene 3Koh Humectant 5.00 .Q^tt elfemt Credarom® Floral ^ectar^ (Giycerm (and) Water ranch Combretum Nectar) Revitalizing botanical extract L00 Active ingredient according to the invention 3.00 Tween ™ 20 20) Emulsifier too Preparation :

[0161] Weigh and heat Part A to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh Part B and add to Part A. Weigh and mix Part C. Heat Part C to 75°C in a water bath. Add Part C to Part A+B while stirring rapidly. Weigh Part D and mix. Add Part D to the previous part at about 50°C while stirring rapidly. Pour to form the stick into a mold immediately, at about 45°C which becomes solid at room temperature.

[0162] A solid, opaque, light yellow "stick" is obtained. It can be used for a quick and practical touch of care. The combination of the ingredient according to the invention with the PoreTect™ ingredient makes it possible to couple a moisturizing, anti-aging and specific care action for distended pores. As a day care product, the Solaveil™ CT-300 ingredient also protects against damage that can be caused by UV rays.

[0163] 4.15- Rich cream formula with a whipped texture

[0164] [Tables23]Ingredient Name Function %pfp Part A: Deionized Water (Aqua) - QSp 100 Potassium Preservative 0.1$ Part B: Glycerin Humectant 1070 Emc-llippt FCP (and) Capryiyi Gîÿcol (and) Glycoq Antimicrobial 150 Am^rrQj Sdercte Gum Thickening Agent 0.60 Xanthine Gum [Xante Gain FFÛ8-PC Thickening Agent 0.40 Guat Gum Thickening Agent 0.25 Part C: SP CP mbal Rtoiafë) Structuring Agent 6.00 SP Qiî.hi.ç.Ç'GMS 40 SE MBAL {Gfycsryl Steaks SE) Emulsifier 5.00 Thickening Agent 3.00 SP SB1 MBAL (Synthetic Beeswax) Structuring Agent 3.00 isis Emollient 2.00 PG3PR (Poiygl ÿceryl-3 Emulsfent 1.50 Part D: Deionized Water (Aqua) - 0.50 Sodium Hydroxide 30% pH Adjuster 0.05 Part E: active ingredient according to Finverti 3.00 Part F (option neile): (Water (Aqua) (and): Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oit (and) PropanecW (and) Retod (and) 3aimitate (and) Lauryi Gluœside (and) Sorhtan Steara*? ai d Hydregenated Lecithin (and) Caprylyl Glycol) A:® anti-aging 3.00 . Preparation :

[0165] Weigh Part A, mix well. Weigh Part B, mix well. Add Part B to Part A, stirring rapidly for one hour. Heat Part A+B to 75°C in a water bath. Weigh and heat Part C to 75°C in a water bath. Add Part C to Part A+B, stirring vigorously. Weigh Part D, mix well. Add Part D to the previous part, at about 45°C, stir well. Add Part E to the previous part, stir well. Add Part F, if applicable, to the previous part, stir well.

[0166] After 24 hours of rest, stir the emulsion with a U-shaped paddle for one hour.

[0167] A pale yellow opaque viscous cream with a whipped texture is obtained. lather. It is rich but leaves the skin with a comfortable, non-greasy feeling.

[0168] 4.16- Formula for roll-on applicator for lips

[0169] [Tableaux24] Ingredient Function % w / w Part A: Aqua (Aqua) Excipient W100 Potassium [Potassium] Preservative 0.40 Part B: Glycerin Humectant 10.00 0.20 Gum ^t^^FFCS-PC^ (Xanthan Gum) Thickening Agent 0.29 LC (Sorbitan Stearate) Laurate) O / W 2.80 Meonshine^sset Ultra Sodium Bc-rosilicate (æd; ijçn Oxide Cl 778911 Pearlizing Agent 2.39 Preservative 0.80 Part C: GTiS Emollient 1050 Emollient 2.30 CSA (Hydrogenated Castoi OU Sebacic Acid Copulymer) Improving Agent 2.00 Tween™ 60 (Pqiy^.aré 60} Co-emulsifier W Opîtonne&ement: 3773 (Cl 15850 (and) Pigment 0.90 NG Shea Unsaporifiabte78* (Shea) Butte? (and) P^.(Shea) Buffet Repairing and softening agent 0.50 Covapaie Unibrow LC 8781 (Cl 77491 (and) Cl 77492 (and) Cl 77493 (and) Wanus Cammunls OH)® Pigment 0.30 Part D: Deionized water (Aqua) Excipient 0.90 Lactic acid 30% Acid) pH adjuster 0.10 Part E: active ingredient according to the invention 3,CO Part F (optional): Stevia GL (Aqua (and) W) Tetaniqæ extract 1.00 . Preparation :

[0170] Weigh Part A and heat to about 75°C. Add Part B and mix well for 30 minutes while stirring. Weigh Part C and heat to about 75°C. Add Part C into Part A+B while stirring at high speed. Weigh Part D and mix well. Adjust the pH to 6.00-6.20 with Part D when the temperature is in below 45°C, mix well. Weigh and add part E to the previous part, mix well. Weigh part F and add it to the previous part, mix well.

[0171] A dark red fluid emulsion is obtained, compatible with a “roll-on” type application, which offers a restorative, moisturizing and protective cosmetic treatment thanks to its active ingredients, and an aesthetic visual effect of volume and shine to the lips. 4.17- Shampoo formula

[0172] [Tables25] Ingredient WCI Name Function % w / w Part A: Deionized Water (Aqua) - qsp 100 Potassium Preservative 0.10 Part B: Sodium Sulfate Surfactant 8.00 Aqua (and) Surfactant 5.00 Emollient DCP (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) 1.50 Almond Oil Fragrance 0.10 Part C: Deionized Water (Aqua) - 1.50 Lactic Acid pH Adjuster 0.15 Part D: Active Ingredient According to the Invention 3.00 Part E: Sodium Chloride Viscosity Adjuster 3.00 Preparation :

[0173] Weigh Part A. Mix well. Add the ingredients of Part B, one after the other, to Part A+B while stirring. Mix well. Weigh Part C, mix well. Add Part C to Part A+B with normal stirring. Add Part D to the previous part with normal stirring. Add Part E to the previous part while stirring normally.

[0174] A clear, pale yellow fluid gel is obtained, forming a shampoo for gently cleaning and treating the hair and scalp.

[0175] 4.18- Leave-on spray formula for hair application Ingredient^an} iNGi Function %pfp Part A: Deionized Water (Aqua) - qsp WO Sodium Citrate Citrate pH Adjuster 1.20 Potassium Citrate pH Adjuster 0.25 Preservative OdQ Part B: Etwilient OOP (and) CapryM Glycd (and) Humectant 1.50 Tween1® 20 SoMisarst 1.00 Part G: Alcohol Drying Agent 5.00 Gum ^^^(FHCS-PC Xanthar Rheology Modifier 0.20 Almond Laà Fragrance 0.10 Part D: Active ingredient according to the invention 3.00 Preparation :

[0177] Weigh Part A and mix. Weigh Part B and mix well. Weigh Part C and mix well. Mix Part B into Part C. Pour Part B+C into Part A with normal helical stirring. Add Part D into the previous part with normal helical stirring.

[0178] An opaque off-white fluid emulsion is obtained with a texture suitable for application by spraying to be applied lightly to the hair and scalp.

[0179] 4.19- Mask formula for hair application IngrédientSom INC! Fonction %p / p Partie A : Eau désionisée (Art - ® tco de potassium Conservateur o,w Partie 8 : 0890 OMBqW >Stsbisateur démulsion 4,59 9 STS i'PPG-3 Sert Ether Myristate) Émdferé de la Mance 4> MEA fetaultate (aadj G'KMO Tenshactife catoiques,æ GBQ 0rternium-§1 (and) fethœutate tand; 2.59 Conservateur 0> Partie D : ûptfcnndtement CrodaromP Msnute Honey (Water (and) (Syeerâ (and) Honey Ertct) Extrait botanique 1.09 Partie E : optîonneliment .gMf (Butylène G^cd tW) Water (and) PPG-26-Buteft-26 (and) PEG-40 Hydrogensted Castor OU (ætd) Apigenin (end) OieancfcAdd (arrà)gi$tj$grt^ C' Adïart;rt^ech^ 3,æ Partie F : optionnefemeirt UÔ^Red K7Ü57-J sohta 01% (Aqua (and) Cl 17209) Colorant 0.0'1 B8Q65-J sdsto 9.1 % [Àqua late] Cl 19149) Colorant 0.15 Part G: Deionized water (Art - 1.59 Sodium hydroxide 30% pH adjuster 0.15 Part H: Active ingredient according to 1 wen&n 3.09. Preparation :

[0181] Weigh and heat Part A to 85°C in a water bath. Weigh and heat Part B to 90°C in a water bath. Weigh Part C and mix well. Pour Part C into Part A with normal stirring. Disperse Part B into Part A + C with vigorous stirring, mix well. If necessary, pour Part D, at about 40°C, into the previous part while stirring. If necessary, add Part E, mix well. If necessary, add Part F to the previous part, mix well. Add Part G, mix well. Add Part H, mix well.

[0182] A yellow opaque viscous emulsion is obtained forming a thick cream suitable for a silicone-free hair and scalp mask which may include a panel of active ingredients such as the active ingredient according to the invention for a complete cosmetic treatment.

[0183] 4.20- Serum formula for hair application

[0184] [Tables28] hgrédîenf / INCI Name FottcSon Part A: Deionized Water (A^ua) - ® w Rheology Modifier 0.25 Part 8: Preservative 0.10 Part C: Deionized Water (A^ua) - 2.00 Sodium Hydroxide 30% pH Adjuster O Part D: Alcohol Sdwii 5.00 Penetrates Glyro Humectant 3.00 Arlos^' D'Æ Humectant 2.5Q Preservative 0.50 Fragrance Fragrance 0.10. Part E: Heroh FM ùxttC (A oter Cite Auratte Àmara (Eitter Ojfge' Flouer Oen Botanical extract with relaxing effect 1.00 Part F: Active ingredient according to hnvsnta 3.03

[0185] Sprinkle the carbomer into the water and let it swell for 30 minutes. Weigh Part B. Add Part B to Part A while stirring. Weigh and mix Part C. Neutralize with Part C to Part A + B. Homogenize well while stirring. Weigh and mix Part D. Pour Part D into Part A+B+C while stirring. Add Part E and mix well. Add Part F and mix well.

[0186] A colorless fluid gel is obtained forming a serum with a light, non-greasy texture.

Claims

Claims

1. Use of pycnidione for a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages to improve its general condition and / or sensory comfort.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the pycnidione is provided in the form of an extract of the biomass of an in vitro culture of a microorganism capable of producing pycnidione as a secondary metabolite, said extract being able to be optionally purified to increase the pycnidione content.

3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the extract is derived from the biomass of an in vitro culture of a strain of Coniothyrium cerealis.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pycnidione is added to a physiologically acceptable medium.

5. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that the physiologically acceptable medium corresponds to the biomass extraction solvent.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the treatment is topical.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the treatment is chosen from: - a treatment for the signs of chronological or premature aging, - a moisturizing treatment, - a treatment for dull and / or tired skin, - a treatment for sensory discomfort of the skin, - a treatment for skin prone to oiliness and / or acne, and / or - a hair treatment.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the treatment is suitable for maintaining or improving the mechanical and viscoelastic properties of the skin including the scalp.

9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the treatment is a treatment suitable for preventing or reducing roughness, fine lines and wrinkles of the skin.

10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the treatment is suitable for preventing or reducing sagging of the skin.

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the treatment is adapted to stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the treatment is adapted to strengthen the dermis-epidermis junction (DEJ).

13. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the treatment is adapted to combat the harmful effects of glycation.

14. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the treatment is adapted to combat the harmful effects of free radicals.

15. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hair treatment is suitable for treating brittle or split hair, and / or for preventing and / or treating pigmentation defects.

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