Cosmetic composition comprising at least one extract of fermented Rosa centifolia

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising at least one fermented Rosa centifolia extract. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily extract and / or one aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia, said extracts being prepared by fermentation, using a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia mixed with at least one vegetable oil, with: - said fermented oily extract of Rosa centifolia derived from the oily phase isolated from said fermented mixture, after successive decontamination, drying, and preferably deodorization thereof with steam; and - said fermented aqueous extract of Rosa centifolia derived from the aqueous phase isolated from said fermented mixture, after successive sterilization and filtration thereof. It also relates to a process for preparing an oily extract and / or an aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising at least one extract of fermented Rosa centifolia technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, specifically for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fermented extract of Rosa centifolia. It relates in particular to the process for preparing such an extract. Previous technique

[0002] As detailed below, human skin consists of two main layers: the dermis and the epidermis, which superficially covers the dermis. The human epidermis, which constitutes the skin barrier, is composed primarily of three types of cells: keratinocytes (the most numerous), melanocytes, and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes, through its specific functions, to the essential role played by the skin in the body, particularly its role in protecting the body against external aggressions (climate, ultraviolet rays, tobacco, etc.), a function precisely known as the "barrier function."

[0003] On a daily basis, the skin is subjected to oxidative stress, which can be summarized as the oxidative attack of all cellular biological macromolecules (DNA, lipids, proteins) by Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS): superoxide radical O2, hydrogen peroxide H2O2, hydroxyl radical HO°, singlet oxygen *O2 or nitrogen (NSS: peroxynitrite ONOO), nitric oxide (NO). This oxidative stress, which can be physiological or caused by external agents such as UV radiation, pollution, or tobacco smoke, leads to cellular and tissue alterations that contribute to skin aging.

[0004] It is therefore clear that it is important to fight against cutaneous oxidative stress in order to limit skin alterations and, in particular, its aging.

[0005] To this end, antioxidant active agents, most often synthetic, are already being considered to combat cutaneous oxidative stress. Among these are polyphenols. These compounds include flavonoid polyphenols such as epigallocatechin, epicatechin 3-gallate, baicalin, taxifolin, quercetin, hesperetin, or genistein; or non-flavonoid polyphenols, such as resveratrol, and are, for the most part, used in synthetic form.

[0006] However, there is now a consumer demand for so-called bio-based active materials, i.e. of natural origin, which are more environmentally friendly.

[0007] To this end, natural raw materials, particularly plant-based ones, are now considered as potential sources of such oxidizing agents.

[0008] The present invention falls precisely within this approach.

[0009] It aims to offer, as a cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as an antioxidant agent, a specific plant extract precisely rich in antioxidant compounds such as flavonoids and / or polyphenols.

[0010] It also aims to propose a manufacturing process for such an extract, effective in achieving this advantageous quantity of antioxidant compounds.

[0011] Unexpectedly, the inventors have indeed found that extracts of Rosa centifolia prove to be particularly interesting as a natural source rich in active ingredients with antioxidant power, provided that they are implemented in a fermented form. Summary of the invention

[0012] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily extract and / or one aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia, said extracts being prepared by fermentation, by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia in a mixture with at least one vegetable oil, with - said fermented oily extract of Rosa centifolia derived from the isolated oily phase of said fermented mixture, after successive decontamination, drying and preferably deodorization thereof with steam and - said fermented aqueous extract of Rosa centifolia derived from the isolated aqueous phase of said fermented mixture, after successive sterilization and filtration thereof.

[0013] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily extract and / or an aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia, said extracts being prepared by fermentation, by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia in mixture with at least one vegetable oil, - said fermented oily extract of Rosa centifolia having at least 5 mg / L and preferably 5 to 12 mg / L of kaempferol and optionally quercetin, and - said aqueous extract comprising at least 10% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight of polyphenols, and a protein dry matter content less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to its total weight.

[0014] In particular, it also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily extract and / or one aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia, said extracts being prepared by fermentation, by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia in a mixture with at least one vegetable oil, with - said fermented Rosa centifolia oil extract derived from the isolated oil phase of said fermented mixture, after successive decontamination, drying and preferably deodorization thereof with steam, and having at least 5 mg / L and preferably 5 to 12 mg / L of kaempferol and where appropriate quercetin, and - said fermented Rosa centifolia aqueous extract derived from the isolated aqueous phase of said fermented mixture, after successive sterilization and filtration thereof, and comprising at least 10% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight of polyphenols, and a protein dry matter content less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to its total weight.

[0015] As illustrated in the examples below, the inventors have discovered that a particular fermentation of Rosa centifolia, in particular of Rosa centifolia flowers, in this case by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae and in the presence of at least one vegetable oil, makes it possible to obtain oily and aqueous extracts of natural origin which are particularly interesting for their richness in antioxidant actives.

[0016] In particular, the inventors have found that such a fermentation of Rosa c entifolia makes it possible to obtain an oily extract enriched in antioxidant active(s) and especially in kaempferol compared to an oily extract of an aqueous concentrate of unfermented Rosa c entifolia.

[0017] Thus, the invention also relates to a method for preparing an oily extract and / or an aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia as previously defined, comprising at least the steps of: a) to have an aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia flowers obtained by macerating Rosa centifolia flowers in a hydroalcoholic medium, b) have a fermentation biomass of a Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain •> (c) bring said concentrate (a) into contact with all or part of the biomass (b) in the presence of at least one vegetable oil, preferably camelina oil, and preferably at least one lipophilic antioxidant, in particular tocopherol, under conditions conducive to the interaction of said biomass and said concentrate, (d) centrifuge the fermented mixture obtained in step (c), and e) separately recover the aqueous and oily phases of said centrifuged fermented mixture, precursors of said aqueous and oily extracts.

[0018] In particular, this process may further include, at the end of step e), sterilization at a temperature greater than or equal to 130 °C, at atmospheric pressure of the isolated aqueous phase, and its filtration.

[0019] In particular, this process may also further include, after step e), drying, optionally filtration and steam deodorization of the isolated oily phase.

[0020] It also targets aqueous and oily extracts obtained according to the aforementioned processes.

[0021] The invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or keratinous fibers, preferably of the lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0022] The present invention also relates to the use of an oily extract and / or an aqueous extract as described above for the preparation of cosmetic compositions dedicated to the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or keratinous fibers, preferably of the lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0023] The present invention also relates to the use of an oily extract and / or an aqueous extract as described above for the preparation of cosmetic compositions dedicated to combating cutaneous oxidative stress.

[0024] The present invention also relates to the use of an oily extract and / or an aqueous extract as described above for the preparation of cosmetic compositions dedicated to combating the signs of skin aging, such as, for example, wrinkles or fine lines. Brief description of the drawings

[0025] [Fig.1] represents the development of biomass over time within a mixture of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c contifolia flowers in the presence of camelina oil and tocopherol.

[0026] [Fig.2] compares the quercetin and kaempferol content in camelina oil alone (1), in camelina oil mixed with an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c contifolia flowers before fermentation (2) and after fermentation (3).

[0027] [Fig.3] compares the polyphenol and protein content in an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c contifolia flowers alone (1), in an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c contifolia flowers mixed with camelina oil, before fermentation (2) and after fermentation (3). Detailed description

[0028] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0029] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with the skin and its appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0030] By "keratinous materials", we mean in particular skin, fibers, eyelashes and hair appendages.

[0031] By "keratin fibers", we mean in particular eyelashes and / or eyebrows, and preferably eyelashes.

[0032] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, décolletage, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolletage and neck.

[0033] A composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition.

[0034] Aqueous and oily extracts of fermented Rosa centifolia and their preparations

[0035] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises an oily extract and / or an aqueous extract of Rosa c contifolia fermented by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, in the presence of at least one vegetable oil.

[0036] Fermentation refers to a transformation carried out by a microorganism, in this case by a Saccharomyces cerevisiae microorganism.

[0037] As can be seen from the examples below, this fermentation is carried out on an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c contifolia and in the presence of at least one vegetable oil and thus allows access to aqueous and oily extracts which are particularly interesting for their composition in antioxidant actives.

[0038] By “aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia”, we mean an aqueous solvent medium carrying specific active components of Rosa centifolia, and which has been obtained by maceration of Rosa centifolia flowers in an aqueous solvent medium, generally hydroalcoholic, according to a classic process.

[0039] More specifically, this aqueous concentrate can be prepared by a process comprising at least: (i) bringing Rosa centifolia flowers into contact with a hydroalcoholic solvent under conditions conducive to the diffusion and concentration of the active compounds present in said flowers, in said solvent, and ii) the filtration of this maceration medium to isolate the aqueous solvent medium enriched in specific active components of Rosa centifolia and, where applicable, its drying, its purification, concentration, deodorization and / or sterilization to obtain the expected aqueous concentrate.

[0040] As is apparent from the foregoing, an aqueous concentrate as defined above undergoes, within the framework of the present invention, fermentation with at least one microorganism of S. accharomyces cerevisiae. This microorganism is used for this fermentation step in the form of all or part of its biomass.

[0041] This biomass can in particular be derived from the culture of this strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, on a Peptone Glucose Yeast (PGY) culture medium at a temperature of 30°C.

[0042] The biomass and aqueous concentrate are brought into contact in the presence of at least one vegetable oil. Fermentation is thus carried out in emulsion and therefore makes it possible to generate a fermented aqueous extract and a fermented oily extract.

[0043] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the vegetable oil used for fermentation is composed of at least camelina oil, which proves to be an interesting vehicle for the lipophilic active ingredients released during the fermentation of the aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia. Furthermore, camelina oil is known for its antioxidant properties, its high saturated fatty acid content, and its anti-wrinkle action; it is therefore advantageous to also benefit from camelina oil in the fermented oil extract considered according to the invention. In this respect, it is further advantageous that the oil extract to be fermented includes at least one lipophilic antioxidant, preferably at least tocopherol, particularly to prevent any potential degradation of this oil over time.

[0044] According to one embodiment, fermentation is carried out by combining an aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia, a biomass of a microorganism of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, at least one vegetable oil and tocopherol in the following proportions: - 45 to 55% by weight of aqueous Rosa centifolia concentrate, relative to the total weight of the fermentation medium, - 45 to 55% by weight of vegetable oil, relative to the total weight of the fermentation medium, - from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight of biomass of a Saccharomyces cerevisiae microorganism, relative to the total weight of the fermentation medium, - 0.1 to 0.2% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the fermentation medium, with said aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia and the vegetable oil preferably being brought into contact in an equi-mass ratio.

[0045] The fermentation of the aqueous condensate of Rosa c contifolia is carried out under operating conditions conducive to the biological activity of the microorganism.

[0046] Thus, this fermentation is advantageously carried out under 0.03 MPa of nitrogen, at a temperature of 30 °C for a period of 48 hours.

[0047] Following this fermentation, the fermentation medium is centrifuged to separate the solids from the liquid. The liquid, consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, is then isolated and processed to form the fermented aqueous and oily extracts of the invention.

[0048] As regards the oily phase, it is decontaminated, dried and preferably deodorized with steam.

[0049] As for the aqueous phase, it is sterilized, preferably at a temperature greater than or equal to 130 °C at atmospheric pressure, and filtered.

[0050] As specified above, the fermentation carried out according to the invention has the effect of generating aqueous and oily extracts of Rosa centifolia having compositions different from those accessible from the same aqueous concentrate but not having been subjected to fermentation by a Saccharomyces cerevisiae microorganism.

[0051] Thus, the fermented Rosa centifolia oily extract proves to have an advantageous concentration of kaempferol higher than that which can be obtained by simple extraction of the aqueous concentrate with a vegetable oil, such as camelina oil.

[0052] Fermentation has the advantage of enriching the oily extract obtained from the fermentation according to the invention of the aqueous concentrate with kaempferol. Kaempferol is a compound that is particularly advantageous due to its antioxidant properties.

[0053] More specifically, the fermented Rosa centifolia oil extract comprises at least 5 mg / L, and preferably 5 to 12 mg / L of kaempferol.

[0054] In one embodiment, this oily extract may further comprise quercetin. Generally, the extract comprises at most 5 mg / L and preferably at most 3 mg / L of quercetin.

[0055] Thus, a fermented oily extract of Rosa centifolia that has been deodorized with steam is generally devoid of quercetin.

[0056] Besides kaempferol, this oily extract advantageously comprises camelina oil and at least one lipophilic antioxidant.

[0057] The fermented Rosa centifolia oil extract advantageously exhibits antioxidant activity characterized by an EC50 ES less than or equal to 0.00016%.

[0058] As regards the fermented aqueous extract of Rosa centifolia, it generally comprises at least polyphenols and proteins.

[0059] More specifically, the fermented aqueous extract of Rosa centifolia comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight of polyphenols, relative to its total weight.

[0060] In one embodiment, this aqueous extract comprises a protein dry matter content of less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to its total weight.

[0061] By “polyphenol” is meant a compound comprising at least two phenolic groups; these phenolic groups may be associated in more or less complex structures, and they are generally of high molecular weight.

[0062] Among the polyphenols present in an aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia, catechin and pyrogallol can be mentioned in particular. Composition according to the invention

[0063] A composition according to the invention comprises at least an aqueous extract and / or an oily extract of fermented Rosa centifolia.

[0064] The quantity of aqueous extract and / or oily extract of Rosa centifolia fermented in a composition according to the invention can vary from 0.01 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty phase

[0065] A composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

[0066] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one waxy phase containing at least one wax.

[0067] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one pasty fat and / or at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil, and their mixture(s). Wax(s)

[0068] A wax as considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, which can go up to 200 °C and in particular up to 120 °C.

[0069] In particular, waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55 °C.

[0070] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.

[0071] Preferably, the waxes have an enthalpy of fusion AHf greater than or equal to 70 J / g.

[0072] Preferably, the waxes comprise at least a crystallizable part, visible by X-ray diffraction observations.

[0073] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0074] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first heating from -20 °C to 120 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -20 °C to 120 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second heating, the following parameters are measured:

[0075] - the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature,

[0076] - AHf: the enthalpy of fusion of the wax corresponding to the integral of the set of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0077] A wax within the meaning of the present invention may be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or siliconed and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0078] The quantity of wax(s) may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, better less than 12% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] In particular, the quantity of wax(s) may vary from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight, better from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] The composition may include at least one polar hydrocarbon wax. By "polar wax" is meant waxes comprising in their chemical structure, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one strongly electronegative heteroatom, such as O, N or P.

[0081] In particular, the following may be used as polar hydrocarbon wax(s): waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; sunflower wax, rice wax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, preferably beeswax, Candelilla wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, Camauba wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32.

[0083] Among these, we can mention in particular hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as partially hydrogenated isomerized trans jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the reference commercial ISO-J0J0BA-5O®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrabehenate) sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

[0084] Wax obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18L57", or waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names "PHYTOWAX castor 16L64 and 22L73" by SOPHIM, may also be used. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

[0085] Other examples include polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; preferably polyoxyethylated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethened or polyoxypropylened, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] The composition may include at least one nonpolar wax selected from polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, and mixtures thereof. Nonpolar wax is defined as waxes whose chemical structure consists solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0087] We can also mention silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicone having 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or fluorinated waxes.

[0088] Preferably, the polar wax(s) is / are chosen from camauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, wax derived from an ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer, natural (or bleached) beeswax and synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] As an example of synthetic beeswax, we can mention the wax sold under the name Cyclochem 326 A by Evonik Goldschmidt (INCI name: Synthetic Beeswax).

[0090] Wax derived from an ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer may be a product marketed under the name Coolbind by the company National Starch.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, hydrocarbon waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; sunflower wax, rice wax, wax of Camauba, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, polyglycerol beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, in particular ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymers, and their esters, preferably beeswax, Candelilla wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, Carnauba wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyglycerol beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, and mixtures thereof. Pasty fats

[0092] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty fat body.

[0093] By "pasty fat" in the context of the present invention, we mean a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid change of state and comprising at a temperature of 23 °C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0094] The pasty fat is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of vegetable origin. A pasty compound can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of vegetable origin.

[0095] The paste-like compound is advantageously chosen from: - lanolin and its derivatives; - Vaseline, in particular that whose INCI name is petrolatum and which is marketed under the name ULTIMA WHITE PET USP by the company Perenco, - polyol ethers selected from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof, pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ether containing 5 oxyethylenated units (5 EOs) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ether containing 5 oxypropylenated units (5 OPs) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more specifically the mixture of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, marketed under the name "Lanolide" by the Vevy company, a mixture in which the constituents are in a weight ratio of 46 / 46 / 8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil; - silicone compounds, polymeric or not; - fluorinated compounds, polymeric or not; - vinyl polymers, in particular: • olefin homopolymers and copolymers, • homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, • linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having an alkyl group at C8-C30, • homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having alkyl groups at C8-C30, • homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups at C8-C30; - liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more diols in C2-C100, preferably in C2-C50; - esters; - and / or mixtures thereof.

[0096] The paste-like compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon.

[0097] Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C3O alkylene oxides are particularly preferred, preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, particular examples include copolymers in which long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol ethers (45 EO) marketed under the brand name ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

[0098] Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: - esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, especially adipic acid and glycerol condensates, wherein a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (INCI name) marketed under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, - arachidyl propionate, marketed under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, such as, for example, partially or totally hydrogenated fatty acid triglycerides, particularly in the form of Ci0-Ci8, such as those marketed under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol, - pentaerythritol esters, - Diol and diacid dimer esters, where applicable, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dilinoleate dimer esters; such esters may be selected from the following INCI list esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof, - butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Among the pasty compounds, preference will be given to esters of an oligomeric glycerol such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer such as bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), butters of vegetable origin; and their mixtures.

[0100] A composition according to the invention may comprise one or more pasty fats in a content ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. volatile oil

[0101] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.

[0102] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with keratinous material, in particular the skin, in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a cosmetic oil that is volatile and liquid at room temperature.

[0103] More particularly, the volatile oil has a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular up to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly up to 1,300 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104).

[0104] This volatile oil may be hydrocarbon.

[0105] The volatile hydrocarbon oil can be selected from hydrocarbon oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0106] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile branched alkane(s). By "one or more volatile branched alkane(s)", is meant interchangeably "one or more volatile branched alkane oil(s)".

[0107] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils having 7 to 16 carbon atoms include C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and by Examples include oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms is selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is particularly isododecane.

[0108] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkane(s). By "one or more volatile linear alkane(s)", we mean interchangeably "one or more volatile linear alkane oil(s)".

[0109] A linear volatile alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at room temperature (approximately 25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0110] By "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the invention, we mean a cosmetic linear alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 101,325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, having in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm2 / min, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0111] Linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0112] As an example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371, or WO 2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

[0113] By way of example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, one may cite n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis. We can also mention n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures. Non-volatile oil

[0114] The composition according to the invention may include at least one non-volatile oil.

[0115] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratinous material, in particular the skin, or the keratinous fiber at room temperature and pressure atmospheric. More precisely, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm2 / min.

[0116] More particularly, the non-volatile oil has a vapor pressure at 20 °C that is not zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa.

[0117] Said at least one non-volatile oil suitable for the present invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils.

[0118] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for the present invention may in particular be selected from:

[0119] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as triglycerides composed of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C2s, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and rosehip oils; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Sasol; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated poly(iso)butene such as paream, squalane, and their mixtures; - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that RI + R2 is >10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoate in Ci2 to Ci5, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate of isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol; - polyesters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate), tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate (INCI name; marketed (notably under the name Supermol® L by the company Croda), Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate (INCI name; marketed under the name Lexfeel® 700 EX-LO- MB by the company Inolex).

[0120] Liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer can also be mentioned, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The dicarboxylic acid dimer is in particular derived from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, notably at C16 to C122, and more particularly at C18, such as linoleic acid.Suitable polyesters include, alone or in mixtures, Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (INCI name; marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® 14436H), Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer (INCI name; marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® Green 3000), Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer (INCI name; marketed under the name Hailucent® ISDA by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo), Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI name; marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan® DD-DA5 and DD-DA7), alone or in mixtures; . - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures.

[0121] When the composition contains it, the content of non-volatile oil(s) may range from 1 to 60% by weight, in particular from 5 to 55% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of non-volatile oil.

[0123] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one aqueous phase. Aqueous phase

[0124] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water mixed or not with one or more water-soluble solvents.

[0125] In the present invention, "water-soluble solvent" refers to a compound liquid at room temperature and miscible with water.

[0126] According to a first embodiment, the aqueous phase represents less than 15%, in particular less than 10%, preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] According to this first embodiment, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly, the composition is anhydrous.

[0128] According to a second embodiment, the quantity of aqueous phase can range from 20% to 90%, in particular from 30% to 70%, preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] The quantity of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase.

[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol. Polyol

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C32 polyol.

[0132] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0133] Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

[0134] Such polyols can be implemented at a rate of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 12% by weight, and better 1% to 10% by weight of C2-C32 polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 7 carbon atoms.

[0136] Advantageously, the polyol can be selected, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers like diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention may comprise at least pentylene glycol.

[0139] A composition according to the invention advantageously contains at least one surfactant. Surfactants

[0140] The compositions according to the invention may also include at least one surfactant selected from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0141] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise an emulsifying system, comprising at least one surfactant selected from:

[0142] - anionic surfactants, - non-ionic surfactants having at 25 °C an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the GRIFFIN sense, greater than or equal to 8, - non-ionic surfactants having at 25 °C an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the GRIFFIN sense, less than 8, - and their mixtures, preferably a mixture of these three types of surfactants.

[0143] The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Anionic surfactant

[0144] The anionic surfactants usable within the framework of the present invention are in particular partially or totally neutralized by at least one organic or mineral base, and may in particular be selected from salts, in particular alkali salts, and in particular sodium, ammonium, amine, amino alcohol or magnesium salts of the following compounds:

[0145] - alkyl phosphates, and in particular Ci2-C24 alkyl phosphate(s), of preference in Ci4-Ci8 and their mixtures, in particular they can be chosen from DEA oleth-10 phosphate (Crodafos N 10N from CRODA), cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan or ARLATONE MAP 160K from UNIQEMA), stearyl phosphate and cetearyl phosphate; - alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates (such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate), alkylamido ethers sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; - alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; - alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, such as “Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate” and “Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”; - alkylsulfosuccinamates; - alkylsulfoacetates; - acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R® marketed by AJINOMOTO), acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyl-lactylates; - alkyl(poly)glycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrates and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinamates; - fatty acids, in particular fatty acid salts and especially amino salts or alkali metal salts, such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; - alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl amido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene; - and their mixtures.

[0146] The anionic surfactant preferentially comprises at least one cationic counter-ion.

[0147] This cationic counterion may be of mineral origin, in particular chosen from the cations of alkali and alkaline-earth metals, or organic.

[0148] The alkali metal cations may be chosen from sodium and potassium.

[0149] The alkaline earth metal cations may be selected from calcium and the magnesium.

[0150] The organic cations may be chosen from ammonium, and its amine and amino-alcohol derivatives, or magnesium. Preferably, the organic cations are chosen from ammonium, and its amine and amino-alcohol derivatives.

[0151] According to a preferred embodiment, the cation is a primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine.

[0152] By primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine, we mean in particular a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, it being understood that by primary means a primary amine function, i.e. -NH2, and the alkyl group being a CrC8 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably a branched C4, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2 methyl propyl.

[0153] The primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is preferably 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine (also called aminomethyl propanediol or AMPD).

[0154] The total content of cationic counterion(s), and in particular of primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine, and especially of AMPD, is preferably greater than or equal to 0.01%, in particular inclusively between 0.1 and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] Among anionic surfactants, fatty acids are particularly suitable, especially fatty acids in the Ci2-C22 range, preferably in the Ci4-Ci8 range, and in particular stearic acid neutralized by a base and in particular aminomethyl propanediol.

[0156] When the composition contains it, the quantity of anionic surfactant(s) varies from 0.5 to 8% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, better from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0158] Non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 °C

[0159] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention may include at least one non-ionic surfactant having at 25 °C an HLB balance greater than or equal to 8.

[0160] Non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 °C may, in particular, be selected from:

[0161] - glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene patterns;

[0162] - oxyalkylated alcohols, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated alcohols, which may containing for example from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, preferably from 20 to 100 oxyethylene motifs, in particular fatty alcohols, especially in C8-C24, and preferably in Ci2-Ci8, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name "Steareth-20") like BRU 78 marketed by UNIQEMA, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7") like that marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS;

[0163] - fatty acid esters, particularly C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (which may include, for example, 1 to 150 oxyethylene motifs), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate marketed under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company UNIQEMA;

[0164] - fatty acid esters, particularly C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and ethers of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol (which may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs), preferably oxyethylenated, such as polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate with 200 oxyethylene motifs (PEG-200 GLYCERYL STEARATE) sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; 30-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate such as the product TAGAT S® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, 30-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate such as the product TAGAT O® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, 30-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by SHEREX, 30-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate such the TAGAT L® product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT and polyoxyethylenated glyceryl laurate with 30 oxyethylene motifs as the TAGAT I® product from GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0165] - fatty acid esters, particularly C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and ethers of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol (which may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs), preferably oxyethylenated, such as polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60® by the company UNIQEMA;

[0166] - dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by the DOW CORNING company;

[0167] - dimethicone copolyol benzoate such as that sold under the name FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® by the company FINTEX;

[0168] - propylene oxide and ethylene oxide copolymers, also called OE / OP polycondensates,

[0169] - and their mixtures.

[0170] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant having at 25 °C a Griffin HLB balance greater than or equal to 8 chosen from fatty acid esters, in particular C8-C24, and preferably Ci6-C22, and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs), preferably oxyethylenated.

[0171] When the composition contains it, the quantity of non-ionic surfactant(s) having at 25 °C an HLB balance in the sense of Griffin greater than or equal to 8 ranges from 0.2 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] Non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 °C

[0173] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention may include at least one non-ionic surfactant having at 25 °C an HLB balance of less than 8.

[0174] Non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 °C may, in particular, be selected from:

[0175] - esters and ethers of sugars such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and their mixtures, for example Arlatone 2121® marketed by the company ICI or SPAN 65V from the company UNIQEMA; - fatty acid esters, particularly C8-C24 esters, and preferably C16-C22 esters, and polyol esters, particularly glycerol or sorbitol esters, preferably glycerol esters, such as glyceryl stearate, for example sold under the name TEGIN M® by GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the IMWITOR 312® by HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, and glyceryl ricinoleate; - oxyalkylated alcohols, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated alcohols that may contain from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, in particular fatty alcohols in C8-C24, and preferably in Ci2-Ci8, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as BRU 72 marketed by UNIQEMA; - Fatty alcohols comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, better 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol. - A mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol such as sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the DOW CORNING company; - and their mixtures.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant having at 25 °C a Griffin HLB balance of less than 8 chosen from fatty acid esters, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and polyol esters, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, preferably glycerol.

[0177] When the composition contains it, the quantity of non-ionic surfactant(s) having at 25 °C a Griffin HLB balance of less than 8 ranges from 0.5 to 8% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, better from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from non-ionic surfactants of the fatty acid ester type, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and polyol, in particular glycerol; polyoxyethylenated or polyglycerolated waxes, in particular selected from polyoxyethylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylenated jojoba wax (120 OE) (INCI name: JOJOBA WAX PEG-120 ESTERS), PEG-8 BEESWAX, PEG-60 LANOLIN, PEG-75 LANOLIN, PPG-12-PEG-50 LANOLIN and POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEEWAX.

[0179] Preferably, the total surfactant content varies from 3 to 25% by weight, in particular from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Film-forming polymers

[0180] The compositions according to this application may further contain at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming polymer.

[0181] In this application, "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and even better a deposit whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said deposit is made by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.

[0182] When present; the film-forming polymer is in the form of a dispersion in an aqueous medium.

[0183] Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, we can mention synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.

[0184] Examples of film-forming polymers include: - proteins such as plant-based proteins like wheat and soy proteins; animal-based proteins such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives; - acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride copolymers, vinyl acetate and crotonic acid copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol; - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers, - arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan gum derivatives, karaya gum; - alginates and carrageenans; - glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals; - deoxyribonucleic acid; - muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, - and their mixtures.

[0185] The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase commonly known as latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0186] As an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070® can be used. , Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company POURIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760® by Interpolymer Allianz Opt®, Rohm and Haas, or aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405 ®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Avalure UR-445® and Sancure 2060® by NOVEON, Impranil 85® by BAYER, Aquamere H-1511® by HYDROMER;Sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ® by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM®, aqueous polyvinyl acetate dispersions such as "Vinybran®" from Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropyl methacrylamidoammonium chloride such as Styleze W- from ISP, aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those marketed under the references "Hybridur®" by AIR PRODUCTS or "Duromer®" by NATIONAL STARCH, core / shell type dispersions: for example those marketed by ATOFINA under the reference Kynar (core: fluorinated - shell: acrylic) or those described in US document 5,188,899 (core: silica) - shell: silicone) and their mixtures. ;

[0187] When present, the quantity of "film-forming polymer(s)" in a composition according to the invention is advantageously greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better to 8% by weight, in particular preferentially ranges from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic gelling agents

[0188] The compositions according to this application may also contain at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, which may be selected from: - polysaccharides such as fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, hyaluronic acid, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, carob gum, galactomannans such as guar gum and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gum, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfate and mixtures thereof. - homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters, and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F® or VERSICOL K® by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8® by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, - copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN® by the company HERCULES, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F® by the company HENKEL, - PEMULEN-type polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, - AMPS (Polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by CLARIANT, - AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL® or SIMULGEL® type marketed by SEPPIC, - AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or not), - associative polymers, and in particular associative polyurethanes such as the Ci6-OEi2o-Ci6 polymer from SERVO DELDEN (marketed as SER AD FX1100, a molecule with a urethane functional group and a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylenated motif, Rheolate 205 with a urea functional group sold by RHEOX, or Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers are sold in pure form), or DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C2o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% active ingredient in water. Solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes can also be used, particularly in water or in hydroalcoholic solutions. Examples of such polymers include SER AD FX 1010, SER AD FX 1035 and SER AD 1070 from SERVO DELDEN, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by RHEOX.One can also use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company RHOM & HAAS, or even Borchigel LW 44 from the company BORCHERS, - and their mixtures.

[0189] Some of the water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above can also act as water-soluble gelling agents.

[0190] Hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight and better from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention containing at least one oily extract and / or an aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia is in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion and further comprises: a) at least one wax; b) at least one anionic surfactant partially or totally neutralized by at least one organic or mineral base, in particular stearic acid neutralized by aminomethyl propanediol; c) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8, in particular PEG-200 GLYCERYL STEARATE; d) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8, in particular chosen from cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer in the form of particles suspended in an aqueous medium; and f) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. Cosmetic active ingredients and adjuvants

[0192] The compositions according to the present invention may further comprise at least one colouring material, in particular selected from pigments, water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes and mother-of-pearls.

[0193] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain one or more active ingredients and adjuvants, in particular chosen from cosmetic active ingredients, sunscreens, perfumes, preservatives, pH adjusters, film-forming agents, etc.

[0194] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0195] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen in particular from: - vitamins and their derivatives; - known anti-aging ingredients; - desquamating agents; - assets for firmness; - sunscreens; and - their mixtures.

[0196] A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.0001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, better from 0.01% to 15% by weight of active ingredient(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition

[0197] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0198] It may in particular be presented in the form of a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip or eye pencil, a liquid or solid foundation, a blush or eyeshadow, a concealer, a blush, an eyeliner, a mascara, or a treatment such as a skincare cream or a tinted cream, preferably in the form of a lipstick or a mascara.

[0199] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin and / or to keratin fibers. This may include the skin of the face and / or body and / or eyelashes and eyebrows, in particular the lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0200] The composition according to the invention may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0201] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0202] In particular, a composition according to the invention is intended to be removed by the End of the day. Uses and processes

[0203] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for makeup and / or skin care and / or keratin fibers.

[0204] According to yet another aspect of it, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous material in which a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratinous material.

[0205] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0206] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined in the present invention for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0207] In particular, the cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention. Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for using these compositions.

[0208] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." shall be understood to include bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0209] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0210] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are "expressed as % of raw material", more precisely as % by weight of raw material in relation to the total weight of the composition. Examples

[0211] Example 1: Preparation of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c. contifolia flowers

[0212] An aqueous concentrate of Rosa c entifolia flowers is prepared from 1 kg of fresh Rosa c entifolia flower petals. The flowers are macerated in a mixture of 5 kg of water / 5 kg of ethanol at a temperature of 50 to 55 °C in a closed tank with circulating hydro-alcoholic solvent. After macerating the flowers for 12 hours, the reaction medium is clarified and then concentrated by evaporating the ethanol with a LUWA (Low-Alcohol Acid Vapor Concentrate) until a 2% dry matter content is obtained. This concentration is characterized by oven-drying a portion of the reaction medium at 105 °C for 16 hours. The resulting concentrate is then filtered through diatomaceous earth plates with particles ranging in size from 0.6 to 1.5 microns to obtain an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c entifolia flowers.

[0213] Example 2: Preparation of a fermentation biomass of a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

[0214] A biomass of a fermented Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain is prepared from a Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain. A first preculture is carried out in an Erlenmeyer flask using said strain in PGY (Peptone Glucose Yeast) culture medium at a temperature of 30 °C, at 150 rpm for 24 hours. A second preculture is then carried out in an Erlenmeyer flask in PGY culture medium at a temperature of 30 °C, at 150 rpm for 18 hours. At the end of the second preculture, the Saccharomyces cerevisiae biomass thus obtained is ready for fermenting the Rosa centifolia concentrate.

[0215] Example 3: Fermentation of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c entifolia flowers by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae

[0216] A mixture containing 2.68 kg of aqueous concentrate of Rosa c contifolia flowers obtained in Example 1, 2.68 kg of camelina oil and 0.010 kg of tocopherol is brought into contact with 0.05 kg of biomass obtained in Example 2. The mixture is added to a reactor at a temperature of 30 °C, at 200 rpm under an atmosphere of 0.3 bar of nitrogen for 48 hours.

[0217] The development of biomass within the mixture is monitored over time and illustrated in [Fig. 1] after 40 hours. The mixture is then centrifuged to separate the aqueous and oily phases. The oily phase is obtained in an amount of 2.07 kg and the aqueous phase in an amount of 3.14 kg. Obtaining the oily extract

[0218] The isolated oily phase is dried with 10% Na2SO4 for 10 min under agitation, then filtered and deodorized with steam. A fermented oily extract of Rosa centifolia is thus obtained. Characterization of the oily extract thus obtained

[0219] The oily extract obtained is characterized in terms of flavonoid components, in particular quercetin and kaempferol, by HPLC analysis. The graph in [Fig. 2] below shows these contents (3). For comparison, this same graph shows the content of these same components, determined in camelina oil alone (1), in camelina oil mixed with an aqueous concentrate of unfermented Rosa centifolia flowers prepared according to example 1 (2).

[0220] It is thus noted that the oily extract obtained from the fermentation of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia flowers in the presence of camelina oil has an increased quantity of kaempferol, a component advantageous for its antioxidant properties. Obtaining the aqueous extract

[0221] The isolated aqueous phase is sterilized at 135 °C for 1 h 30, then filtered. A fermented aqueous extract of Rosa c contifolia is thus obtained. Characterization of the aqueous extract thus obtained

[0222] The aqueous extract obtained is characterized in terms of polyphenol components; by measurement of absorbance, and in proteins; by the Bradford method. The graph in [Fig. 3] below shows these contents (3). For comparison, this same graph shows the content of these same components, determined in the aqueous concentrate of Rosa c entifolia flowers alone, prepared according to example 1 (1), and in the aqueous concentrate of Rosa c entifolia flowers mixed with camelina oil, before fermentation (2).

[0223] It is thus noted that the aqueous extract obtained from the fermentation of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c contifolia flowers in the presence of camelina oil has better bioavailability in polyphenols, an advantageous component for its antioxidant properties. Example 4#: Lipstick Composition

[0224] The composition for lipstick II is prepared according to the protocol below; the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities are given in the table 1. Contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation of the composition

[0225] The pigments are ground, using a three-roll mill or a ball mill, in the quantity of oil(s) necessary to obtain good pigment dispersion. This dispersion is taken from phase A. The remaining ingredients of phase A are mixed under stirring at a temperature between 95 and 100 °C.

[0226] Once the mixture is homogenized, phase B is added under stirring.

[0227] Once the mixture is homogeneous, the pigment paste obtained previously is added under stirring. After homogenization of the mixture, the filler particles are added under stirring, then the oily extract obtained in example 3, the active ingredients and the fragrance.

[0228] The preparation is poured into molds preheated to 42°C, then the molds are placed at -25°C until the mold reaches a temperature of 4°C. The sticks are then pierced to be unmolded and packaged.

[0229] A composition is obtained that is hard enough to be easily unmolded and packaged without breakage.

[0230] The stick has a smooth, homogeneous and flawless appearance.

[0231] Applying the composition to the lips is easy and precise, with good glide, without "dragging".

[0232] Upon application, the composition appears to melt and leave a homogeneous, shiny, very comfortable, non-sticky deposit with a feeling of hydration.

[0233] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredient (chemical name or not 1NCI) Amount A Polyglyeryl-2 Triisostearate A <?smol 43 \ , NISSHIY QILLIO) qsp 100 A. Squalasie (Neossance Squslane, AMYRIS) iOû A Dimer Dîlmokyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD> DA7. NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) 6,56 A Simmandsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50, DESERT WHALE) 2,9 A HydrageaMed Castor Oïl Dimer Dilinoleate (Rbôcast DA-L) KOKYU ALCOHiro spermu3m AKOGYO) Butter (Lipex 204 FFL, AARHUSKARLSHAMN) 4,0 A Butyrospermiun Paridi (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, AARHUSKARL SHAMN ) ■OA Bis-BehenyMsosteaiylT'hylost^ Dimer © Dilinolef © Dimer ON FINE CHEMICAL) 17,6 A Antioxidant 0 50 B- Helianthm Aimuus (Swaflcwer) Seed Wax (Swnflower Wax: KEUSTERKEUNEN) 3,5 B Hy&ogeiiafed Jojoba Oil (Jbjoha Wax Fiakes,).DESERT Wakes,).1.8 B PoIyglyceîyi-3 Beeswax (Cera Bdliaa E00168, KEUSTER KEUNEN) 4.1 B- Euphorbia Cerifera (Candeliha) Wax (Màlticeraa) 1-2 C Pigments 0.12 D Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF, DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 8.0 E Oily extract of fermented centïfblia obtained in example 3 0.25 E Active ingredients / perfume qs. Example 5#: Mascara Composition

[0234] The composition for mascara I 2 is prepared according to the protocol below, the nature of the ingredients and their respective quantities are given in Table 2. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] All raw materials used are carefully weighed using a precision balance ± 0.01 g. Preparation of aqueous phase A

[0236] In a tall 600 mL beaker, previously weighed empty to adjust the water mass before emulsification, the required amount of water, previously heated in an electric kettle, is slowly stirred using a Rayneri mixer. The polymers, fillers, and then Surfactants. Each compound introduced must be solubilized and the reaction mixture homogenized before the introduction of the next compound. Once all compounds are solubilized, the water volume is adjusted to compensate for evaporation, and then the preservative system is added. The aqueous phase is then placed in a water bath until it reaches a temperature of 85–90 °C. Preparation of the fat phase B

[0237] In a 500 mL double-jacketed pan with hot oil circulation to control the temperature, the various waxes are melted, and the reaction medium is heated to approximately 85-90 °C. Once the waxes have melted, the medium is homogenized by stirring with a Moritz mixer, which provides significant shear to create an emulsion (rotor-stator type mixing, consisting of a fixed part in which a second moving part rotates at variable speed). When the waxes are melted and the reaction medium is homogenized, the pigments are added, and the mixture is homogenized again by stirring with a Moritz mixer. The temperature is checked using a probe and adjusted to 85-90 °C as needed. Emulsification

[0238] When both phases are at the desired temperature, the aqueous phase A is very slowly added to the oily phase B while gradually increasing the stirring speed. The phase inversion is then visible as a change in viscosity. The stirring speed is set to maximum for 10 minutes (approximately 3500 rpm). To ensure a homogeneous emulsion, if necessary, use a spatula to scrape the sides and bring the product back towards the center so that it is fully incorporated by the paddle. Cooling

[0239] After emulsification, the pan is placed in the Rayneri fitted with a butterfly blade, allowing for mixing and homogenization during the low-shear temperature decrease. The stirring speed is low to avoid incorporating air bubbles.

[0240] Using an oil bath, the temperature is gradually lowered in 10°C increments, thoroughly homogenizing the mixture at each step, particularly when the temperature is around 70°C, the critical temperature at which the mascara begins to solidify significantly. If necessary, the reaction mixture is stirred with a spatula to prevent the formation of a clump around the blade, which would then no longer be mixed and would render the mixture inhomogeneous. However, the incorporation of air bubbles may occur with this method. Once the mixture has reached room temperature (i.e., 25°C), the fermented Rosa centifolia oil extract obtained in Example 3 is introduced. End of formulation

[0241] The mascara composition obtained is transferred into a closed jar to prevent it from drying out in contact with the air, the homogeneity of the formula and the good dispersion of the pigments are checked after 24 hours.

[0242] [Tables2] Phase Compounds Quantity A Water Qsp 100 Propylene glycol 4J Caprylyl glycol 03 Glycerin 0.5 Pentylene Glycol 33 Hymoxyl cellulose (Cellosize HEC QP-4400H EUROPE PCG®-DOW) 03 Xanthan Gum 04 B PEG-2W Glyceryl Stearate ^SDÆTSOL 220 TM* - SEPPÏC} -"j Copermic Acid Cera Cera (CERAUBA Tl3 - BAERLOCHER (CERESINE)) 13 Beeswax ■■ Cera Alba (BEESWAX WHITE SUSTAINABLE 100® - ROSIER KEUNEN) 43 Glyceryl Stearate tCERASWT SD® - ISP (ASHLAND)) Stearic Acid ('STEARI TP 1200 PASTILLES (DUB 50P® - STEARINERIE DUBOIS) 2.9 Aminoethyl Prcepanedibl (AMPD ULTRA PC, NEUTRALIZING AMINE* - NGUS (ADVANCION)) 0.3 Cetyl alcohol (ALKONAT 1698 P® - OXITENO) 10 Oryza sativa bran wax (NC 1220® - CERA RICA NODA) 5.3 Fermented Oryza oil extract obtained in example 3 0.25 Pigments 9.3 Acrylic copolymers (EPTTEXWiPOLYMER.® - DOW) 18.7

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily extract and / or an aqueous extract of fermented Rosa c entifolia, said extracts being prepared by fermentation, by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c entifolia in mixture with at least one vegetable oil, with - said fermented oily extract of Rosa c entifolia derived from the oily phase isolated from said fermented mixture, after successive decontamination, drying and preferably deodorization thereof by steam and - said fermented aqueous extract of Rosa c entifolia derived from the aqueous phase isolated from said fermented mixture, after successive sterilization and filtration thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein said fermented Rosa centifolia oil extract has a kaempferol concentration higher than that obtained by simple extraction of the aqueous concentrate with a vegetable oil.

3. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily extract and / or an aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia, said extracts being prepared by fermentation, by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia in mixture with at least one vegetable oil, - said fermented oily extract of Rosa centifolia having at least 5 mg / L and preferably 5 to 12 mg / L of kaempferol and where appropriate quercetin and, - said aqueous extract comprising at least 10% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight of polyphenols, and a protein dry matter content of less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to its total weight.

4. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily extract and / or one aqueous extract of fermented Rosa centifolia, said extracts being prepared by fermentation, by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, of an aqueous concentrate of Rosa centifolia in a mixture with at least one vegetable oil, with said fermented oily extract of Rosa centifolia derived from the oily phase isolated from said fermented mixture, after successive decontamination, drying and preferably deodorization of it by steam, - said fermented Rosa centifolia oil extract having at least 5 mg / L and preferably 5 to 12 mg / L of kaempferol and where appropriate quercetin, - said fermented Rosa centifolia aqueous extract derived from the isolated aqueous phase of said fermented mixture, after successive sterilization and filtration thereof, and - said aqueous extract comprising at least 10% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight of polyphenols, and a protein dry matter content less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to its total weight.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said fermented Rosa c contifolia oil extract comprises at most 5 mg / L and preferably at most 3 mg / L of quercetin.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, of which said vegetable oil is at least camelina oil.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said oily extract comprises at least one lipophilic antioxidant, preferably at least tocopherol.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said fermented Rosa c contifolia oil extract has antioxidant activity characterized by an EC50 ES less than or equal to 0.00016%.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and is in particular anhydrous.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one surfactant, in particular selected from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one surfactant selected from non-ionic surfactants of the fatty acid ester type, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C6-C22, and polyol type, in particular glycerol; polyoxyethylenated or polyglycerolated waxes, in particular chosen from polyoxyethylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylenated jojoba wax (120 OE) (INCI name: JOJOBA WAX PEG-120 ESTERS), PEG-8 BEESWAX, PEG-60 LANOLIN, PEG-75 LANOLIN, PPG-12-PEG-50 LANOLIN and POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEEWAX.

12. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one wax, in particular selected from hydrocarbon waxes of animal or vegetable origin such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; sunflower wax, rice wax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes and ozokerite;polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, in particular ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymers, as well as their esters, preferably beeswax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, camauba wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one pasty fat, in particular selected from the esters of an oligomeric glycerol such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; diol dimer and diacid dimer esters such as bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), vegetable butters; and mixtures thereof.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one polyol, in particular selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers like diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising at least one coloring matter, in particular chosen from pigments, water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes and mother-of-pearl.

16. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the form of a lipstick, lip balm, lip gloss, lip or eye pencil, liquid or solid foundation, blush or eyeshadow, concealer, blush, eyeliner, mascara, or a treatment such as a moisturizing cream or tinted cream, preferably in the form of a lipstick or mascara.

17. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion further comprising: a) at least one wax; b) at least one anionic surfactant partially or totally neutralized by at least one organic or mineral base, in particular stearic acid neutralized by aminomethyl propanediol; c) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8, in particular PEG-200 glyceryl stearate; d) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB less than 8, in particular selected from cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof; e) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer in the form of particles suspended in an aqueous medium; and f) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

18. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17 for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

19. A process for preparing an oily extract and / or an aqueous extract of fermented Rosa c entifolia as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising at least the steps of: a) having an aqueous concentrate of Rosa c entifolia flowers formed by macerating Rosa c entifolia flowers in a hydroalcoholic medium, b) having a fermentation biomass of a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, (c) bring said concentrate (a) into contact with all or part of the biomass (b) in the presence of at least one vegetable oil, preferably at least camelina oil, and preferably at least one lipophilic antioxidant, in particular tocopherol, under conditions conducive to the interaction of said biomass and said concentrate, (d) centrifuge the fermented mixture obtained in step (c) and, (e) separately recover the aqueous and oily phases of said centrifuged fermented mixture, precursors of said aqueous and oily extracts.

20. A process according to claim 19 wherein said step c) of bringing said concentrate a) and biomass b) into contact in the presence of at least one vegetable oil and tocopherol, is carried out in the following proportions: - 45 to 55% by weight of said concentrate a), relative to the total weight of the mixture, - 45 to 55% by weight of vegetable oil, relative to the total weight of the mixture, - 0.001 to 0.1% by weight of said biomass b), relative to the total weight of the mixture, - 0.1 to 0.2% by weight of tocopherol relative to the total weight of the mixture, with said concentrate a) and the vegetable oil preferably being brought into contact in an equi-mass ratio.

21. A process according to claim 19 or 20 wherein said isolated aqueous phase is sterilized at a temperature greater than or equal to 130 °C at atmospheric pressure.

22. A process according to claim 19, 20 or 21 wherein said isolated oily phase is dried, optionally filtered and deodorized with steam.

23. Oily extract of Rosa c contifolia flowers fermented by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae obtained from the oily phase according to claim 22.

24. Aqueous extract of Rosa c contifolia flowers fermented by a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae obtained from the aqueous phase according to claim 21.

25. Use of an extract according to claim 23 or 24 for the preparation of cosmetic compositions dedicated to the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or 39 keratin fibers, preferably from the lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

26. Use of an extract according to claim 23 or 24 for the preparation of cosmetic compositions dedicated to combating cutaneous oxidative stress.

27. ​​Use of an extract according to claim 23 or 24 for the preparation of cosmetic compositions to combat the signs of skin aging, such as, for example, wrinkles or fine lines.

Images