hair treatment serum and method of use
The hair treatment serum with γ-polyglutamic acid and polyacrylic acid-based agents addresses the need for lightweight, multifunctional hair care by forming protective films that improve hair softness, hydration, and resilience, offering long-lasting benefits.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024006095
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-10
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-12
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-06-10
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care products fail to provide lightweight, multifunctional conditioning benefits that enhance hair softness, hydration, and protection while maintaining a natural appearance and preventing damage.
A hair treatment serum containing γ-polyglutamic acid, hydrocarbon oils, and polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents, formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, which forms lightweight, flexible films that penetrate hair fibers, providing long-lasting hydration and protection.
The serum enhances hair softness, hydration, and resilience, preventing moisture loss and protecting against heat and environmental damage, while maintaining a healthy shine and natural flow.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Hair treatment serum and method of use. SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE
[0001] This disclosure relates to a hair treatment serum containing γ-polyglutamic acid, one of its salts, or a combination thereof. The hair treatment serum provides softness, hydration, and other revitalizing benefits to the hair. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers want new, multifunctional hair products that give hair quality styling properties while simplifying their routine. These products must be pleasant to the senses, incorporate innovative technologies, and outperform currently available products. Furthermore, consumers prefer hair care products with a lightweight texture, easy application, and long-term protection and nourishment for their hair.
[0003] There are different types of hair conditioning products, each catering to various needs and preferences. The most common conditioning products are rinse-out conditioners, leave-in conditioners, deep conditioning treatments, oil treatments, and co-washes. Rinse-out conditioners are the most common type of conditioning product. They are applied after shampooing and rinsed out before drying and styling. Rinse-out conditioners typically remain in the hair for only a few minutes before being rinsed out, but they are suitable for most hair types and can be used daily or as needed.
[0004] Leave-in conditioners are generally applied to the hair after shampooing and are not rinsed out. They remain on the hair during drying and styling and are designed to provide long-lasting moisture and nourishment, making them a popular choice for dry or damaged hair. Leave-in conditioners can also offer additional benefits such as heat protection, frizz control, and detangling. They are especially useful for people who frequently style their hair or who need extra moisture throughout the day.
[0005] Deep conditioning and oil treatments are intensive treatments designed to provide deep hydration and repair hair. They are generally applied after shampooing and remain on the hair longer They last longer than a regular rinse-out conditioner. Heat is sometimes used to enhance their effects. Consumers rely on deep conditioning and oil treatments to care for dry, damaged, or chemically treated hair. The goal is to restore moisture, repair or minimize damage, and improve the overall health and appearance of the hair.
[0006] All-in-one shampoos / conditioners (also called "co-washes" or "conditioning shampoos") attempt to combine the cleansing benefits of a shampoo with the conditioning properties of a conditioner. They cleanse the hair while simultaneously conditioning it, making for a convenient and simplified hair care routine. Cleansing compositions, such as shampoos, are designed to remove sebum, oil, and debris from the hair, which is the opposite of conditioning. Many conditioning products are designed to deliver oil and other conditioning agents to the hair. In addition, effective shampoos cause the hair cuticle to open, which helps release and remove debris. Effective conditioning products, on the other hand, are designed to close the cuticle to prevent moisture release and provide additional protection to the hair.A single product cannot open and close the cuticle at the same time.
[0007] Hair conditioning products on the market come in various forms, such as solutions, lotions, creams, sprays, oils, and even aerosols. Regardless of the form, consumers are looking for lightweight products that do not weigh down the hair or give it a greasy or oily texture. Ideally, revitalized hair should have a natural, healthy appearance, a pleasant shine, and a natural flow. The best hair conditioning products moisturize the hair, protect it from heat and other environmental damage, and control frizz and flyaways.
[0008] The hair treatment serum of this disclosure offers the aforementioned benefits. In addition, the hair treatment serum acts quickly and penetrates rapidly into the hair fibers. Hair treated with the hair treatment serum is soft, well-hydrated, and smooth, exhibits improved elasticity, and is protected against future damage and breakage. DISCLOSURE SUMMARY
[0009] This disclosure relates to a stable hair treatment serum that provides long-lasting softness, hydration, and other conditioning properties to the hair. The hair treatment serum includes polyglutamic acid, one of its salts, or combinations thereof, which enhances the conditioning benefits of the serum. In addition, the serum includes one or more hydrocarbon oils and one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents. The hydrocarbon oils They are lightweight and contribute to the serum's moisturizing properties. The polyacrylic acid-based thickener is multifunctional. It adds viscosity, contributes to the serum's stability, and interacts beneficially with other ingredients to create a remarkably effective serum. Without delving into a specific theory, the inventors believe that the combination of one or more hydrocarbon oils, the polyacrylic acid-based thickening agent, and polyglutamic acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, is an important aspect of the hair treatment serum. Upon application to the hair, the serum forms smooth, flexible, and long-lasting films. These films prevent moisture loss, protect against heat and other environmental damage, and control frizz. The films are remarkably lightweight, flexible, and long-lasting, and do not become sticky or heavy, giving the hair a healthy shine and a hydrated appearance.
[0010] Hair treatment serum generally includes: a. of polyglutamic acid, one of its salts, or one of their combinations; b. one or more oils, in which at least one of the one or more oils is a hydrocarbon oil; c. one or more thickening agents, wherein at least one of the one or more thickening agents is a polyacrylic acid-based thickening agent; and d. of water;
[0011] wherein the serum is an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion, and
[0012] All percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the serum.
[0013] Non-limiting examples of polyglutamic acid include α-polyglutamic acid, γ-polyglutamic acid, their salts, or mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of γ-polyglutamic acid and its salts include γ-polyglutamic acid, sodium γ-polyglutamate, potassium γ-polyglutamate, calcium γ-polyglutamate, magnesium γ-polyglutamate, and zinc γ-polyglutamate. Sodium γ-polyglutamate and potassium γ-polyglutamate are particularly preferred.
[0014] The hair treatment serum may comprise a variety of different oils. Useful oils include vegetable oils, animal oils, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, silicone oils, fatty alcohols, and liquid triglycerides. However, at least one or more of the oils is preferably a hydrocarbon oil. Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbon oils include C13-15 alkane, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane, isohexadecane, squalane, undecane, tridecane, C13-14 alkane, C14-17 alkane, and C14-19 alkane. The C15-19 alkane, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more hydrocarbon oils selected from squalane, liquid paraffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoates, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and hydrogenated polydecene. In addition to one or more hydrocarbon oils, the hair treatment serum preferably also includes one or more ester oils, one or more silicone oils, or combinations thereof.
[0015] Non-limiting examples of ester oils include cetyl ethylhexanoate, hexyldecyl ethylhexanoate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, triethylhexanoin, caprylic / capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, trimethylolpropane tricaprylate / tricaprate, C5-9 dipentaerythrityl hexa acid esters, diisostearyl malate, hexyl laurate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, ethyl isostearate, and myristate. isopropyl, isostearyl isostearate and octyldodecyl myristate.
[0016] Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecylmethicone, hexylmethicone, lauryl methicone, myristyl methicone, phenyl methicone, stearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropyl methicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
[0017] Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include thickening polymers, such as anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic thickening polymers, and non-polymer thickening agents such as mineral thickening agents like clays (e.g., smectite, hectorite, and montmorillonite, etc.). At least one or more of the thickening agents is preferably a polyacrylic acid-based thickening agent, for example, cross-linked acrylic acid polymers known as carbomers.
[0018] The hair treatment serum preferably includes one or more polysaccharide thickening agents. Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide thickening agents include starches, modified starches, gums, modified gums, celluloses, modified cellulose, guar gums, modified guar gums, their derivatives or mixtures. More specific non-limiting examples of polysaccharide thickening agents include starch, modified starch, xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, their derivatives, or any combination thereof.
[0019] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes both a polyacrylic acid-based thickening agent and a polysaccharide thickening agent, in particular one or more polysaccharide thickening agents selected from guar gum, guar derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), starch and starch derivatives, e.g., starch derivatives selected from corn starch, potato starch, tapioca, arrowroot, wheat starch and rice starch.
[0020] The hair treatment serum is typically an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion. The aqueous phase of the serum is primarily water. However, the aqueous phase may also include one or more water-soluble organic solvents, pH-adjusting agents, buffers, salts, water-soluble active ingredients, aqueous thickening agents, and the like. In various embodiments, the hair treatment serum comprises approximately 50 to approximately 95% by weight of water, preferably approximately 75 to approximately 95% by weight of water, and more preferably approximately 80 to approximately 92% by weight of water.
[0021] The hair treatment serum typically includes one or more surfactants, for example, one or more cationic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, one or more anionic surfactants, or combinations thereof. Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes one or more nonionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, one or more cationic surfactants, or combinations thereof. Cationic surfactants are particularly useful for their revitalizing properties.
[0022] The hair treatment serum optionally includes one or more cationic revitalizing polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic revitalizing polymers include polyquaterniums, cationic polysaccharide derivatives, cationic gum derivatives, diallyldimethylammonium chloride polymer derivatives, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride polymer derivatives, cationic cellulose derivatives, quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose, cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), and acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride copolymers. Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes one or several polyquaterniums, in particular polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, or mixtures thereof.
[0023] Hair treatment serum is useful in hair treatment processes, for example, hair revitalization processes, hair straightening processes, hair styling processes, or combinations thereof. Hair treatment serum can be formulated and used as a leave-in product or formulated and used as a rinse-out product. Preferably, however, hair treatment serum is a leave-in product that is applied to the hair, for example, when wet or damp. After application to wet or damp hair, the hair treatment serum is allowed to dry naturally or can be force-dried, for example, with a hairdryer.Hair treatment serum is used in hair revitalization processes, hair strengthening, hair protection against damage, including heat damage, frizz control, adding shine, and protection against discoloration of artificially colored hair. Brief description of the drawings
[0024] An implementation of this technology is described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:
[0025] [Fig-1] Fig. 1 is a photograph comparing a treated strand of hair with a serum according to the invention and two strands of hair treated with a variety of different comparative serums.
[0026] [Fig.2] Fig.2 is a photograph of a lock of hair treated with a serum according to the invention and a strand of hair treated with a comparative serum.
[0027] The various aspects of the disclosure are not limited to results and arrangements. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0028] This patent relates to a hair treatment serum that provides softness, hydration, and revitalization benefits to the hair, and to hair treatment processes using the hair treatment serum. The hair treatment serum is generally used as a leave-in product. Using the hair treatment serum prevents split ends, speeds up drying and styling, improves hair strength and resilience, and gives it softness and shine. The hair treatment serum includes: a. about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of polyglutamic acid, one of its salts or one of their combinations; b. about 2 to about 10% by weight of one or more oils, in which at least one of the one or more oils is (b)(i) a hydrocarbon oil; c. about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more thickening agents, in which at least one of the one or more thickening agents is (c)(i) a polyacrylic acid-based thickening agent; d. of water; e. optionally, one or more surfactants; and f. optionally, one or more cationic thickening polymers; g. optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients;
[0029] wherein the hair treatment serum is an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion; and
[0030] All percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0031] It may be advantageous for the weight ratio between polyglutamic acid, its salt, or their combination of (a) and the one or more hydrocarbon oils of (b)(i) to be from about 1:1 to about 1:25, preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:10, more preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:5 ((a):(b)(i)).
[0032] It may also be advantageous for the weight ratio between polyglutamic acid, its salt, or their combination of (a) and one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents of (c)(i) to be about 1:1 to about 1:25, preferably about 1:1 to about 1:10, more preferably about 1:2 to about 1:5 ((a):(c)(i)).
[0033] In addition, it may be advantageous for the weight ratio between the one or more hydrocarbon oils of (b)(i) and the one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents of (c)(i) to be about 1:5 to about 5:1, preferably about 1:3 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1:2 to about 2:1 ((b)(i): (c)(i)).
[0034] The pH of the hair treatment serum will vary. However, it typically has an acidic pH, i.e., a pH below 7. Hair itself is naturally acidic, having a pH of approximately 3.5 to approximately 4.5. The natural pH of the scalp is approximately 5.5, which is slightly higher than the pH of the hair. The acidic pH of the hair treatment serum is useful for maintaining the optimal natural pH of the hair and scalp. Various hair treatments such as oxidative coloring, bleaching, chemical styling, and even shampooing can disrupt the natural pH of the hair and scalp and lead to dryness, frizz, and even dandruff. Preferably, the pH of the hair treatment serum is approximately 4.5 to approximately 6.5, more preferably approximately 5 to approximately 6.5, and even more preferably approximately 5.5 to approximately 6.5.
[0035] The viscosity of the hair treatment serum will vary. However, in some embodiments, the viscosity of the hair treatment serum is approximately 10,000 to approximately 20,000 cP at 25 °C, measured with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using the Helipath TC 93 spindle and a rotation speed of 5 rpm. The viscosity of the hair treatment serum is preferably approximately 100,000 to approximately 15,000 cP, more preferably approximately 1,000 to approximately 12,000 cP, and even more preferably approximately 5,000 to approximately 10,000 cP at 25 °C, measured with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using a Helipath TC 93 spindle and a rotation speed of 5 rpm. a. Polyglutamic acid, its salts, their combinations#
[0036] Polyglutamic acid is a polymer of the amino acid glutamic acid. Depending on where the individual monomers link together, polyglutamic acid can be gamma polyglutamic acid (γ-polyglutamic acid), a form in which the peptide bonds are located between the amino group of glutamic acid and the carboxyl group at the end of the glutamic acid side chain, or alpha polyglutamic acid, a form in which the alpha-carboxyl group is used to form the peptide bond. Preferably, polyglutamic acid is α-polyglutamic acid, γ-polyglutamic acid, their salts, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, polyglutamic acid is γ-polyglutamic acid, its salts, or mixtures thereof.
[0037] Non-limiting examples of γ-polyglutamic acid and γ-polyglutamic acid salts include γ-polyglutamic acid, sodium γ-polyglutamate, potassium γ-polyglutamate, calcium γ-polyglutamate, magnesium γ-polyglutamate, and zinc γ-polyglutamate. Sodium γ-polyglutamate and potassium γ-polyglutamate are particularly preferred.
[0038] The total amount of polyglutamic acid, its salts, or combinations thereof may vary, but it is generally about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 0.05 to approximately 1.5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 1.2% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 0.8% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 0.5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 1.5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 1.2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 1% by weight, or approximately 0.1 to approximately 0.5% by weight of polyglumatic acid, its salts, or combinations thereof, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes from about 0.05 to about 1.2% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, plus. preferably from about 0.1 to about 0.8% by weight of polyglutamic acid, its salts, or combinations thereof, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. a. Oils and oily phase#
[0039] The term "oil" means a compound or mixture of compounds that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and normal pressure (1 atm) and is not soluble when added to water at room temperature and normal pressure in an amount of 1%, or is soluble only to a level of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil added to the water. For the purposes of this disclosure, the one or more oils may include fatty compounds that are not individually liquid at room temperature (25°C) and normal pressure (1 atm), but may exist in liquid form when combined with additional oils in the hair treatment serum. For example, individual fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, and waxes are solid at room temperature.Non-limiting examples of waxes that may be included in the oil phase include candelilla wax, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, Copernicia cerifera (Camauba) wax, their derivatives, or mixtures thereof. Therefore, they do not individually constitute an oil. Nevertheless, solid fatty alcohols and other solid fatty compounds such as waxes can be dissolved in oils, for example, by heating, and the resulting mixture is a liquid at room temperature (the resulting mixture is an "oil"). Therefore, the "one or more oils" in this disclosure may include one or more solid fatty compounds, provided that the one or more solid fatty compounds exist in oil (liquid) form in the hair treatment serum.
[0040] Hair treatment serum is typically an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion. One or more oils form part of the oil phase (also called the "fatty phase," "lipophilic phase," or "hydrophobic phase"). The oil phase includes the one or more oils and ingredients that are soluble in the oil phase, for example, lipophilic vitamins, certain organic solvents, etc.
[0041] The one or more oils may include non-volatile oils, one or more volatile oils, or combinations thereof. "Non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on a surface at room temperature (25 °C) and normal pressure (1 atm) for at least 2 hours and, in particular, has a vapor pressure of less than 10 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil can be defined as an oil having a certain percentage evaporation such that at room temperature (25 °C) and normal pressure (1 atm), the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm2.
[0042] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil that is volatile at room temperature (25 °C) and normal pressure (1 atm) and, for the purposes of this disclosure, may be an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils may be defined as oils having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg), preferably between 1.3 Pa and 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more preferably between 1.3 Pa and 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 1,000 mm Hg). Preferred volatile oils include volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and combinations thereof.
[0043] Non-limiting examples of oils include vegetable oils, animal oils, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, silicone oils, fatty alcohols, and liquid triglycerides. Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes one or more hydrocarbon oils and one or more silicone oils. More preferably, the hair treatment serum includes one or more hydrocarbon oils, one or more silicone oils, and one or more ester oils.
[0044] The total amount of one or more oils in the hair treatment serum will vary, but it is typically about 2 to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 7% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 7% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 7% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 12% by weight, of about 5 to about 10% by weight, about 5 to about 8% by weight or about 5 to about 7% by weight of one or more oils, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 2 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 12% by weight, and even more preferably about 6 to about 10% by weight of one or more oils, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0045] As indicated above, one or more oils form part of the oil phase of the oil-in-water emulsion or oil-in-water dispersion. The oil phase may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of one or more oils. Nevertheless, the total amount of the oil phase is typically about 2 to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 7% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 7% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 7% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 12% by weight, of about 5 to about 10% by weight, about 5 to about 8% by weight or about 5 to about 7% by weight of the oil phase, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 2 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 12% by weight, and even more preferably about 6 to about 10% by weight of the oil phase, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0046] (b)(i) Hydrocarbon oils
[0047] The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil formed substantially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0048] The hair treatment serum preferably includes one or more hydrocarbon oils. Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbon oils include undecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, octadecane, docosane, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated didecene, mineral oil, liquid, petrolatum, dodecane, isododecane, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isoparaffin, isodecanefarnesene, hydrogenated farnesene, coconut alkane, coconut / palm alkane, C9-C12 alkane, C10-C13 alkane, alkane, C12-C17 alkane, C13-C15 alkane, C13-C15 alkane, C13-14 alkane, C14-17 alkane, C14-19 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C14-17 alkane, C14-19 alkane, C14-20 alkane, C14-22 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C21-28 alkane, C17-23 alkane, C9-12 isoalkane, C9-13 isoalkane, C9-14 isoalkane,C9-C16 isoalkane, C10-C11 isoalkane, C10-C12 isoalkane, C10-C13 isoalkane, C1 ... C11-C14, C12-C14 isoalkane, C11-C16 isoalkane, C12-C20 isoalkane, C13-C14 isoalkane, C13-C16 isoalkane, C14-C16 isoalkane, C15-C19 isoalkane, or mixtures thereof.
[0049] The hair treatment serum may optionally include one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils. Non-limiting examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include linear or branched, optionally cyclic, lower alkanes in the C5-C20 range, such as pentane, hexane, heptane, decane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane and C8-C18 isoparaffins, for example isodecane, isododecane and isohexadecane.
[0050] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more hydrocarbon oils selected from C13-15 alkane, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane, isohexadecane, squalane, undecane, tridecane, C13-14 alkane, C14-17 alkane, C14-19 alkane, C15-19 alkane, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more hydrocarbon oils selected from squalane, liquid paraffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoates, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and hydrogenated polydecene. Squalane is particularly preferred.
[0051] Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes one or more nonpolar hydrocarbon oils, which may be linear or branched, and contain at least 20 carbon atoms, such as paraffinic hydrocarbons and olefins, for example, C24-28 olefins, C30-45 olefins, C20-40 isoparaffins, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, mineral oil, petrolatum, pentahydrosqualene, squalene, and squalane. Preferably, the nonpolar hydrocarbon oils have a molecular weight ranging from approximately 300 to 1000 Daltons.
[0052] The total amount of one or more hydrocarbon oils in the hair treatment serum will vary but is typically from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, about 0.4 to about 5% by weight, about 0.4 to about 4% by weight, about 0.4 to about 3% by weight, about 0.4 to about 2% by weight, or about 0.4 to about 1% by weight of one or more oils, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, and even more. preferably from about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more oils, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. Weight ratio of (a) to (b)(i)
[0053] The amounts of polyglutamic acid, its salts or their combination of (a) and one or more hydrocarbon oils of (b)(i) vary. Nevertheless, the amount of polyglutamic acid, its salts or their combination of (a) and the amount of one or more hydrocarbon oils of (b)(i) are typically in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:25 ((a):(b)(i)). In other embodiments, the weight ratio is from about 1:1 to about 1:20, from about 1:1 to about 1:15, from about 1:1 to about 1:10, from about 1:1 to about 1:8, from about 1:1 to about 1:5, from about 1:1 to about 1:3, from about 1:2 to about 1:25, from about 1:2 to about 1:20, from about 1:2 to about 1:15, from about 1:2 to about 1:10, from about 1:2 to about 1:8, from about 1:2 to about 1:5, or from about 1:2 to about 1:3 ((a):(b)(i)).Preferably, the quantity of polyglutamic acid, its salts, or their combination of (a) and the quantity of one or more hydrocarbon oils of (b)(i) are in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:10, more preferably about 1:1 to about 1:5, and even more preferably about 1:2 to about 1:5 ((a):(b)(i)). .
[0054] (b)(ii) Silicone oils
[0055] The term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicone atom, and including in particular Si-O groups, and encompasses amino-functionalized silicone oils (also called "amino-silicones"). An "amino-functionalized silicone" is a polyaminosiloxane, that is to say, any polysiloxane comprising at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0056] Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that are not amino-functionalized silicone oils include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include amodimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, and trimethyl silylamodimethicone. Amodimethicone is a particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone.
[0057] One or more silicone oils may optionally include or be selected from volatile silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, hoxilisilisilisethylsiloxane, xyamethylsiloxylistroxane, octamethylsiloxylhexylsi loxane, octamethylsilohexethylsiloxane, octylheptamethyltrisiloxane, the decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane and heptamethyltrisiloxane.
[0058] The one or more silicone oils may include or be selected from among non-volatile silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of useful non-volatile silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilocites. Other examples of silicone oils that can be mentioned include linear or cyclic volatile silicones, such as those with a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8x106 m2 / s) and / or containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms.These silicone oils optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.
[0059] Preferably, at least one or more silicone oils are selected from among non-volatile silicone oils, in particular non-volatile, non-polar silicone oils, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Methylsubstituted polyorganosiloxanes, also known as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicone (INCI), are particularly preferred. Dimethicone is available in various chain lengths and with different molecular weights and is a preferred silicone oil.
[0060] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more amino-functionalized silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicone oils include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(alkoxy Cl3-15) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and mixtures thereof. Amodimethicone is a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone.
[0061] In a preferred embodiment, one or more silicone oils are selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, decamethylcyclopent asiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryldimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecylmethicone, hexylmethicone, lauryl methicone, myristyl methicone, phenyl methicone, stearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropyl methicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, or combinations thereof.
[0063] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes: a. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, or mixtures thereof, preferably one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, phenyl trimethicone, or mixtures thereof, more preferably dimethicone, dimethiconol, or a mixture thereof; and b. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(alkoxy Cl3-15) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, or mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, or mixtures thereof, even more preferably, amodimethicone.
[0064] The total amount of one or more silicone oils in the hair treatment serum will vary. However, the hair treatment serum typically includes from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more silicone oils. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 4% by weight of one or more silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, preferably approximately 0.5 to approximately 6% by weight, more preferably approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0065] (b)(iii) Ester oils
[0066] By "ester oil" is meant an oil having at least one ester function in its molecule. Non-limiting examples of ester oils include cetyl ethylhexanoate, hexyldecyl ethylhexanoate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, triethylhexanoin, caprylic / capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, trimethylolpropane tricaprylate / tricaprate, dipentaerythrityl hexa C5-9 acid esters, diisostearyl malate, hexyl laurate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, ethyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl myristate, diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, monoisostearic acid N-alkylglycol, isocetyl isostearate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate,ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl gum ester, oleyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, decyl oleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, triethyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, isocetyl stearate, butyl stearate, diisopropyl sebacate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, myristyle lactate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 2-hexyldecyl, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, cholesterol 12-hydroxystearate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, octyldodecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, myristyle myristate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, ethyl laurate, hexyl laurate, diisostearyl malate, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0067] In a preferred embodiment, one or more ester oils are selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl lanolinate, isopropyl ricinoleate, isopropyl stearate, the isononyl nonanoate, alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isonyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butylloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, Erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, or mixtures thereof. Isopropyl myristate is a particularly preferred ester oil.
[0068] The total amount of one or more ester oils in the hair treatment serum will vary. However, the hair treatment serum typically includes from about 1 to about 15% by weight of one or more ester oils, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 3 to approximately 4% by weight of one or more ester oils, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, and even more preferably about 2 to about 5% by weight of one or more ester oils, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0069] (b)(iv) Fatty alcohols
[0070] The term "fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylated (in particular neither oxyethylated nor oxypropylated), nor glycerolated. Fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, in which R designates a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably, 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0071] The hair treatment serum optionally includes one or more fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes one or more oils, and at least one of the oils is a fatty alcohol. However, in other embodiments, the hair treatment serum is free of, or essentially free of, fatty alcohols.
[0072] Fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid(s) or solid(s). Liquid fatty alcohols, particularly those with a C10-C34 structure, preferably have branched carbon chains and / or one or more, preferably 1 to 3 double bonds. They are preferably branched and / or unsaturated (C=C double bond) and contain 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0073] Liquid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C=C double bond in C12-C24), R optionally being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. Examples include oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-l-dodecanol.
[0074] Solid fatty alcohols are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25 °C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25 °C, 1 atm. Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, in which R designates a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0075] Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol or lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0076] The total amount of one or more fatty alcohols in the hair treatment serum, if any, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes from approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols. In other embodiments, the treatment serum capillary includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight or approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. Where appropriate, the hair treatment serum preferably includes about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, and more preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum is free or essentially free of fatty alcohols. a. Thickening agents#
[0077] The term "thickening agent" may be referred to interchangeably as "thickener" or "viscosity-modifying agent." Thickening agents include, but are not limited to, polymer thickening agents (or thickening polymers), mineral thickening agents, aqueous thickening agents, non-aqueous thickening agents, and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of aqueous thickening agents include cellulose, cellulose derivatives, guar gum, guar derivatives, xanthan gum, xanthan derivatives, carbomers, acrylate / VA crosslinked polymers, polyethylene glycols, and clays. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous thickening agents include polyethylenes, trihydroxystearin, organic clays, and fumed silica.
[0078] Non-limiting examples of polymeric thickening agents (or thickening polymers) include: (a) vinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer and vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer; (b) acrylates, methacylates and their copolymers, for example, copolymers of Cr C6 alkyl methacrylates or amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer; (c) copolymers of methacrylates or hydrophilic acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; (d) polyurethanes and polyurethane polyethers, for example polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of a polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences; (e) taurate copolymers, for example, acrylamide / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer; (f) polyacrylic acid thickening agents including cross-linked polyacrylic acid thickening agents and acrylic acid copolymers; and (g) polysaccharide thickening agents, including gums and their derivatives.
[0079] Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes one or more polyacrylic acid thickening agents, in particular cross-linked polyacrylic acid thickening agents such as carbomers. More preferably, the hair treatment serum includes one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents and one or more polysaccharide thickening agents.
[0080] The total amount of one or more thickening agents in the hair treatment serum will vary. However, the hair treatment serum typically includes from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5 % by weight, from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight, or from about 1 to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0081] (c)(i) Polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents
[0082] As used herein, a "polyacrylic acid-based thickening agent" means water-soluble homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or their water-dispersible or water-soluble salts, esters and amides, or water-soluble copolymers of these acids or their salts, esters or amides with each other or with one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers, such as Styrene, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, 2-hydroxyethylacrylate, acrylonitrile, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, or similar compounds may be used. Polyacrylic acid thickening agents include acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers comprising 90% or more, by weight, polymerized acrylic acid units. The preferred acrylic acid monomer used to make these thickeners is the actual compound "acrylic acid." However, other acrylic acids may also be used, for example, methacrylic acid and Ci₄-substituted alkyl acrylic acid. Other comonomers that may be present in the polymer chain include 10% or less by weight of long-chain alkyl esters of acrylic acid. In addition, the expression "polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents" encompasses salts of polyacrylic acid, for example, sodium polyacrylate, potassium polyacrylate, etc.
[0083] Examples of polyacrylic acid thickening agents include polyacrylic acid (acrylic acid homopolymer), sodium polyacrylate, and ammonium polyacrylate. Examples of commercially available polyacrylic acid-based thickeners include "ARON A-10H" (polyacrylic acid), "ARON A-20L" (sodium polyacrylate), "ARON A-7100" (sodium polyacrylate), "ARON A-30" (ammonium polyacrylate), and "ARON A-7195" (ammonium polyacrylate) manufactured by TOAGOSEI CO., LTD, and preferably, "ARON A-10H" is used. These polyacrylic acid-based thickeners can be used alone or in combination with two or more of them.
[0084] Suitable thickeners include crosslinked polyacrylic acid products sold under the trade names CarbopoL® 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® ETD2020, Carbopol® Ultrez™ 10, Carbopol® 940, Carbopol EZ-1™, Carbopol EZ-2™, Carbopol EZ-ultra™, and Carbopol® 980. The USP-NF, the British Pharmacopoeia, the United States Adopted Names Council (USAN), and the Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association (CTFA) have adopted the generic (i.e., non-proprietary) name "carbomere" for Carbopol® homopolymers. Japanese pharmaceutical excipients list Carbopol® homopolymers as "carboxyvinyl polymer" and "polymethylene carboxyl." The polymers share an acrylic acid backbone. The main differences concern the presence of comonomers and the crosslinking density.These polymers are either homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl sucrose, polyalkyl ethers of divinyl glycol, or allyl pentaerythritol, or similar crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid with minor levels of long-chain alkyl acrylate comonomers. These polymers swell in water up to 1,000 times their original volume. (and ten times their original diameter) to form a gel when exposed to an environment with a pH greater than 4.0-6.0.
[0085] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more polyacrylic acid homopolymers, preferably cross-linked, known as carbomers.
[0086] The total amount of one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents in the hair treatment serum will vary. However, the hair treatment serum typically includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, or approximately 0.5 to approximately 1% by weight of one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents, relative to the weight total of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. Weight ratio of (a) to (c)(i)
[0087] The amounts of polyglutamic acid, its salts, or their combination of (a) and one or more polyacrylic acid thickening agents of (c)(i) will vary. Nevertheless, the amount of polyglutamic acid, its salts, or their combination of (a) and the amount of one or more polyacrylic acid thickening agents of (c)(i) are typically in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:25 ((a):(c)(i)). In other embodiments, the weight ratio is from about 1:1 to about 1:20, from about 1:1 to about 1:15, from about 1:1 to about 1:10, from about 1:1 to about 1:8, from about 1:1 to about 1:5, from about 1:1 to about 1:3, from about 1:2 to about 1:25, from about 1:2 to about 1:20, from about 1:2 to about 1:15, from about 1:2 to about 1:10, from about 1:2 to about 1:8, from about 1:2 to about 1:5, or from about 1:2 to about 1:3 ((a):(c)(i)).Preferably, the amount of polyglutamic acid, its salts, or their combination of (a) and the amount of one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents of (c)(i) are in a weight ratio. from about 1:1 to about 1:10, more preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:5, and even more preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:5 ((a):(c)(i)).
[0088] (c)(ii) Polysaccharide thickening agents
[0089] In various preferred embodiments, the one or more thickening agents include or consist of one or more polysaccharide thickening agents. The term "polysaccharides" refers to compounds containing a backbone of repeating sugar units (i.e., carbohydrates). As its name suggests, a "polysaccharide thickening agent" is an agent that increases the viscosity (thickness) of a composition. Polysaccharide thickening agents may be cationic, nonionic, or anionic. In various embodiments, the polysaccharide thickening agent is preferably a nonionic polysaccharide thickening agent, a cationic thickening agent, or combinations thereof. In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more nonionic polysaccharide thickening agents.Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide thickening agents include inulins, inulin derivatives, celluloses, cellulose derivatives, starches, starch derivatives, guar gums, guar derivatives, xanthan gums, xanthan derivatives, pullulan gums, pullulan alginate derivatives, alginate derivatives, agar-agar gums, agar derivatives, carrageenan gums, carrageenan derivatives, gellan gums, gellan derivatives, gum arabic and gum arabic derivatives, xyloses, xylose derivatives, tragacanth gums, tragacanth derivatives and combinations thereof. More specific but non-limiting examples of polysaccharide thickening agents include guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, starch, modified starch, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, pectin, chitosan and mixtures thereof.
[0090] Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitin, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxyanthan gum, and biosaccharide gum. Modified gums or gum derivatives may also be used, such as, for example, desacylated gellan gum, welan gum or hydroxypropyl guar gum, or mixtures thereof.In various embodiments, one or more polysaccharide thickening agents are selected from gums, such as gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, gum of . guar, hydroxypropyl guar, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, Seneca gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, or mixtures thereof.
[0091] Non-limiting examples of celluloses and cellulose derivatives include methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methylhydroxyethylcellulose), or hydropropylcelluloses, which may or may not contain a fatty chain. A particularly suitable hydroxypropylmethylcellulose is Methocel® F4M sold by Dow Chemicals (INCI name: hydroxypropylmethylcellulose).Modified celluloses with groups comprising one or more nonionic fatty chains that may be used include hydroxyethylcelluloses, preferably nonionic hydroxyethylcelluloses, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22 alkyl groups, such as the product NATROSOL™ Plus Grade 330 CS (alkyl Cl6), sold by Aqualon, corresponding to the INCI name cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or the product BERMOCOLL® EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel, and those modified with alkylphenyl ether groups of polyalkylene glycol, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER® HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol, which corresponds to the INCI name nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose.Non-limiting examples of celluloses (also called "cellulose-based polymers") include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful here. Among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, the material designated CTFA cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is cetyl alcohol ether of hydroxyethylcellulose, is preferred. This material is sold under the trade name NATROSOL® CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation.
[0092] Non-limiting examples of guar gum and guar derivatives include guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, and mixtures thereof. Additional examples include hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR® HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by Lamberti, and the RE210-18™ products (chain alkyl group (Cl4) and RE205-1™ (alkyl group C20) sold by Rhone-Poulenc. The total amount of guar gum, guar derivatives, or mixtures thereof, as appropriate, is typically about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. More preferably, however, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.2 to about 1% by weight, of one or more guar gums, guar derivatives, or mixtures thereof.
[0093] Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, modified potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride, starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, and mixtures thereof. The total amount of one or more starches, starch derivatives including modified starches, and mixtures thereof, as applicable, is typically about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. More preferably, however, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, even more preferably about 0.2 to about 1% by weight of one or more starches, starch derivatives including modified starches, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more polysaccharide thickening agents selected from cellulose, cellulose derivatives, guar gum, guar derivatives, starch, modified starch, and starch derivatives, and more preferably from guar gum, guar derivatives, starch, modified starch, starch derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Preferred guar derivatives include hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.Preferred starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride, starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch and mixtures thereof.
[0095] The total amount of one or more polysaccharide thickening agents in the hair treatment serum will vary. However, the hair treatment serum typically includes from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more polysaccharide thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, of about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, of about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, of about 0.2 to about 5% by weight, of about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, of about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, of about 0.2 to about 2% by weight, of about 0.2 to about 1% by weight, of about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, of about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, of about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, of about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, or of about 0.5 to about 1% by weight of one or more polysaccharide thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more polysaccharide thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0096] (c)(iii) Additional thickening agents
[0097] In addition to the one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents and the one or more polysaccharide thickening agents shown above, the hair treatment serum may optionally include one or more additional thickening agents, including the thickening agents shown above which differ from the polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents and the polysaccharide thickening agents. Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents include thickening polymers selected from taurate copolymer, polyacrylamide, acrylic acid / acrylonitrogen copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, C10-30 acrylates / aminoacrylates / alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymers, acrylates / aminoacrylates copolymer, acrylates and steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer,acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer / HEMA, acrylates / neodecanoate vinyl crosslinked polymer, acrylates / isodecanoate vinyl crosslinked polymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylic acid / acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid copolymer, and acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, carbomers, hydrophobically modified polypolyacrylates; hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acids, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides; modified hydrophobic polyethers in which these materials may exhibit a hydrophobic component which may be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleayl copolymer and their combinations, acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer, acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer, acrylates-3 crosslinked polymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer,the C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylates / stearth-20 itaconate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylate / isohexadecane / PEG-40 castor oil, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), C13-14 polyacrylamide / isoparaffin / laureth-7, polyacrylate 13 / polyisobutene / polysorbate 20, crosslinked polyacrylate-6 polymer, polyamide-3, polyquaternium-37, sodium polyacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] Non-limiting examples of mineral thickening agents include silica silylate, sublimed silica, zeolite, natural clay, synthetic clay, kaolin, hectorite, organically modified hectorite, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (and) disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate, an activated clay, disteardimonium hectorite, stearalconium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, benzalconium bentonite, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] Non-limiting examples of taurate copolymers include acrylamide / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer and mixtures thereof.
[0100] The total amount of one or more additional thickening agents in the hair treatment serum will vary. However, the hair treatment serum typically includes from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more polysaccharide thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, or approximately 0.5 to approximately 1% by weight of one or more additional thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight of one or more additional thickening agents, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. a. Water and aqueous phase#
[0101] The total amount of water in the hair treatment serum will vary, but it is typically from about 60 to about 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes from about 65 to about 95% by weight, from about 70 to about 95% by weight, about 75 to about 95% by weight, about 80 to about 95% by weight, about 60 to about 92% by weight, about 65 to about 92% by weight, about 70 to about 92% by weight, about 75 to about 92% by weight, about 80 to about 92% by weight, about 60 to about 90% by weight, about 65 to about 90% by weight, about 70 to about 90% by weight, about 75 to about 90% by weight, about 80 to about 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 70 to about 95% by weight, more preferably about 75 to about 92% by weight, and even more preferably about 80 to about 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0102] As mentioned previously, hair treatment serum is typically an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion. Accordingly, hair treatment serum includes an aqueous phase (also called the "water phase") and an oily phase (also called the "fat phase," "lipophilic phase," or "hydrophobic phase"). The aqueous phase comprises water and water-soluble ingredients, such as water-soluble solvents, aqueous thickening agents, salts, acids, water-soluble active agents, and the like.
[0103] The total amount of aqueous phase in the hair treatment serum will vary, but it is typically about 60 to about 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. In additional embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 65 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 80 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 60 to approximately 92% by weight, approximately 65 to approximately 92% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 92% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 92% by weight, approximately 80 to approximately 92% by weight, approximately 60 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 65 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 80 to approximately 90% by weight of the aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 70 to about 95% by weight, more preferably about 75 to about 92% by weight, and even more preferably about 80 to about 90% by weight of an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. Oil phase / aqueous phase ratio
[0104] The ratio between the oil phase and the aqueous phase will vary. Nevertheless, the aqueous phase of the hair treatment serum is typically larger than the oil phase. For example, the weight ratio of the oil phase to the aqueous phase is approximately 1:2 to approximately 1:20 ((oil phase) :(aqueous phase). In other in embodiments, the weight ratio of the oily phase to the aqueous phase is approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:20, approximately 1:5 to approximately 1:20, approximately 1:10 to approximately 1:20, approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:16, approximately 1:6 to approximately 1:16, approximately 1:8 to approximately 1:16, approximately 1:10 to approximately 1:16, approximately 1:5 to approximately 1:15, approximately 1:8 to approximately 1:15 or approximately 1:10 to approximately 1:15 ((oily phase): (aqueous phase)). The weight ratio of the oily phase to the aqueous phase is preferably about 1:2 to about 1:20, more preferably about 1:5 to about 1:16, and even more preferably about 1:10 to about 1:15, ((oily phase):(aqueous phase)). a. Surfactants#
[0105] The hair treatment serum typically includes one or more surfactants. The term "surfactants" is also intended to encompass "emulsifiers." Surfactants include nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, anionic surfactants, and cationic surfactants. One or more nonionic surfactants are useful for emulsifying oil-in-water emulsions or oil-in-water dispersions. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more nonionic surfactants. Cationic surfactants can be useful for emulsification but also provide hair-conditioning properties. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more cationic surfactants.In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more non-ionic surfactants and one or more cationic surfactants, and optionally, one or more amphoteric surfactants. The hair treatment serum is preferably free from or substantially free from anionic surfactants.
[0106] The total amount of one or more surfactants in the hair treatment serum will vary, but is typically about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, or approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0107] (e)(i) Non-ionic surfactants
[0108] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants include those selected from alkyl polyglucosides; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated (polyglyceryl isostearate 2); ethoxylated fatty esters; glyceryl esters of fatty acids; fatty alcohol ethoxylates; alkylphenol ethoxylates; fatty acid alkoxylates; and mixtures thereof.
[0109] Non-ionic surfactants include those of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: R i represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl substituent comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl substituent whose linear or branched alkyl substituent comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene substituent comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4 and v denotes a value from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.Preferably, alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which: Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl substituent comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene substituent comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; t denotes a value from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0; and G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, namely the value of v, may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4, the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2. The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. In particular, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant can be a C8 / Ci6 alkyl(poly)glucoside 1,4 alkyl(poly)glucosides, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.
[0110] Nonionic surfactants include C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated compounds preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerol compounds preferably having 2 to 16 moles of glycerol, and mixtures thereof. The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols may be selected from C12-C18 fatty alcohols, in particular polyoxyethylenated lauric, cetyl, myristic, and stearyl alcohols having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 2 EOs (Ceteth-2) (HLB 5.3), cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 6 EOs (Ceteth-6) (HLB 11.1), polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 10 EOs (Ceteth-10) (HLB 12.9), polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 20 EOs (Ceteth-20) (HLB 15.7), polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 24 EOs (Ceteth-24) (HLB 16.3), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 2 EOs (Laureth-2) (HLB 6.1), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 3 EOs (Laureth-3) (HLB 8), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 4 EOs (Laureth-4) (HLB 9.4), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 7 EOs (Laureth-7) (HLB 12.3), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 9 EOs (Laureth-9) (HLB 13.6), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 10 EOs (Laureth-10) (HLB 13.9) polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 12 EOs (Laureth-12) (HLB 14.6), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 21 EOs (Laureth-21) (HLB 15.5), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 23 EOs (Laureth-23) (HLB 16.3), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 2 EOs (Steareth-2) (HLB 4.9), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 10 EO (Steareth-10) (HLB 12.4), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 20 EO (Steareth-20) (HLB 15.2), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 21 EO (Steareth-21) (HLB 15.5). .
[0111] Polyoxyethylenated (preferably C12-C18) C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan may be selected from polyoxyethylenated C12-C18 fatty acid esters, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl or stearic acids, of sorbitan containing in particular 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-21) (HLB 13.3), polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-20) (HLB 16.7), polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate (Polysorbate-40) (HLB 15.6), polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate (Polysorbate-60) (HLLB / 14.9), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-61) (HL9.6), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20-OE) ) (Polysorbate-80) (HLB 15).In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include one or more nonionic surfactants selected from C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably C12-C18 polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters.
[0112] C8-C30 polyglycerol fatty acid esters, which are particularly preferred, may be selected from C12-C18 polyglycerol fatty acid esters, in particular of lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isostearic acid, having from 2 to 16 moles of glycerol, such as: polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate; polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate; polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, palmitate of polyglyceryl-10; polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate; polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate and mixtures thereof.
[0113] In some cases, non-ionic surfactants may be selected from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably Ci2-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably in C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;Sorbitol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C8-C24 fatty alcohol or alcohols, preferably C12-C22; and mixtures thereof.
[0114] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (such as the CTFA names: PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
[0115] Glyceryl esters of fatty acids are referred to as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof. Examples of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids include polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.
[0116] Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coca glucoside, sucrose laurate, caprylyl / capryl glucoside and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0117] Suitable alkoxylated mono-acid surfactants include, but are not limited to: 5-butoxynol carboxylic acid, 19-butoxynol carboxylic acid, 4-capryleth carboxylic acid, 6-capryleth carboxylic acid, 9-capryleth carboxylic acid, 25-ceteareth carboxylic acid, 7-coceth carboxylic acid, 9-C9-11 pareth-6 carboxylic acid, 1-C1-15 pareth-7 carboxylic acid, 12-C13 pareth-5 carboxylic acid, 12-C13 pareth-8 carboxylic acid, 12-C13 pareth-12 carboxylic acid, 12-C15 pareth-7 carboxylic acid, 12-C15 pareth-8 carboxylic acid, 14-C15 pareth-8 carboxylic acid, deceth-7 carboxylic acid, laureth-3 carboxylic acid, laureth-4 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-6 carboxylic acid, laureth-8 carboxylic acid, laureth-10 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, laureth-12 carboxylic acid, laureth-13 carboxylic acid, laureth-14 carboxylic acid, laureth-17 carboxylic acid,PPG-6-laureth-6 carboxylic acid, PPG-8-steareth-7 carboxylic acid, myreth-3 carboxylic acid, myreth-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-8 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-10 carboxylic acid, octeth-3 carboxylic acid, octoxynol-20 carboxylic acid, oleth-3 carboxylic acid, oleth-6 carboxylic acid, oleth-10 carboxylic acid, PPG-3-deceth-2 carboxylic acid, capryleth-2 carboxylic acid, ceteth-13 carboxylic acid, deceth-2 carboxylic acid, hexeth-4 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-6 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-11 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-6 carboxylic acid trideceth-8 carboxylic acid, trideceth-12 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-4 carboxylic acid, trideceth-7 carboxylic acid, trideceth-15 carboxylic acid, trideceth-19 carboxylic acid, undeceth-5 carboxylic acid and their combinations.
[0118] The total amount of one or more nonionic surfactants, if any, will vary. However, the hair treatment serum typically includes from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight or approximately 0.1 to approximately 1% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, more preferably approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, and even more preferably approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0119] (e)(ii) Cationic surfactants
[0120] The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the hair treatment serum. The cationic surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition as disclosed.Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachimidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0121] In various embodiments, one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0122] Cationic surfactants include polyoxyalkylated primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines, or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, for example, chloride salts of quaternary ammonium compounds. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0123] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that can be cationized include stearyloxypropylamine, palmityloxypropylamine, stearyloxypropyldimethylamine, stearyloxypropyldiethylamine, stearyloxyethyldimethylamine, stearyloxyethylamine, myristyloxypropylamine, myristyloxypropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropylamine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl butylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropylamine, lauramidopropyl methylamine, lauramidopropyl diethylamine, lauramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl butylamine, lauramidopropyl dipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine,lauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, stearamidopropyl amine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidopropyl dibutylamine, stearamidopropyl butylamine, stearamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl amine, behenamidopropyl methylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl dibutylamine, behenamidopropyl butylamine, behenamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl methylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl ethylamine,dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilauramidopropyl methylamine, dilauramidopropyl butylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distearamidopropyl methylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, trimethyl palmitoamidopropyl chloride, ammonium, stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl trihydroxyethylmonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetylamidodihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylpropylamine, palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl butylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropylamine, myristoylpropyl methylamine, myristoylpropyl diethylamine, myristoylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl butylamine, myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine stearoylpropyl amine, stearoylpropyl methylamine, stearoylpropyl diethylamine,stearoylpropyl dibutylamine, stearoylpropyl butylamine, stearoylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl amine, behenylpropyl methylamine, behenylpropyl diethylamine, behenylpropyl dibutylamine, behenylpropyl butylamine, behenylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl methylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl ethylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl butylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl propylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine dilauroylpropylamine, dilauroylpropyl methylamine, dilauroylpropyl butylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl amine, distearylpropyl methylamine,dibehenylpropyl propylamine, and dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine.
[0124] Cationizable surfactants may be selected from fatty alkylamines and fatty dialkylamines. Preferably, fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0125] In some cases, the cationic surfactant is preferably chosen from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behennamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethyl amine, arachidamide-propyldiethylamine, arachidamide-ethyldiethylamine, arachidamide-ethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.In a particularly preferred embodiment, one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
[0126] The total amount of one or more cationic surfactants, if any, will vary. However, hair treatment serum typically includes from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 1% by weight or more of cationic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0127] (e)(iii) Amphoteric surfactants
[0128] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants include alkyl amphopropionates, betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl amphoacetates, and combinations thereof. In some cases, it is preferable to include one or more alkyl betaines. Non-limiting examples of alkyl amphopropionates include Cocoamphopropionate, maizemphopropionate, caprylamphopropionate, maizemphopropionate, caproamphopropionate, oleoamphopropionate, isostearamoamphopropionate, stearoamphopropionate, lauroamphopropionate, their salts, and any combination thereof. Non-limiting examples of betaines include coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxysulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of alkyl sultaines include cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and lauryl hydroxysultaine. A non-limiting example of an alkyl amphoacetate is sodium lauroamphoacetate. In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes one or more betaine surfactants, for example, coco betaine.
[0129] The total amount of one or more amphoteric surfactants, if any, will vary. However, hair treatment serum typically includes from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more amphoteric surfactants. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 1% by weight or more of amphoteric surfactants, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of one or more amphoteric surfactants, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0130] (e)(iv) Anionic surfactants
[0131] Anionic surfactants have a fatty group and a negatively charged head group that allows them to interact easily with water molecules and reduce the surface area between water and fatty substances. Alkyl sulfates, in particular sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), are particularly common anionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include sulfate-based surfactants, acyl isethionate-based surfactants, acyl amino acid-based surfactants (such as acyl taurate, acyl glycinate, acyl glutamate, and acyl sarcosinate-based surfactants), alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkoxylated monoacids, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] The hair treatment serum may comprise one or more anionic surfactants or may be free or substantially free of one or more anionic surfactants. If so, the total amount of one or more anionic surfactants is typically about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 2% by weight, about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 1% by weight or more of anionic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. a. Cationic revitalizing polymers#
[0133] As its name suggests, a "cationic conditioning polymer" is a polymer with a cationic charge that provides conditioning and antistatic properties to hair. Cationic conditioning polymers can also impart thickening properties to the hair treatment serum. Therefore, in some cases, there is an overlap between one or more thickening agents and one or more cationic conditioning polymers. However, for the purposes of this disclosure, a single compound in a hair treatment serum does not simultaneously qualify as both a thickening agent and a cationic conditioning polymer, even if it has the properties of both. For example, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride is a cationic guar that provides thickening properties to the composition and also provides conditioning properties to the hair.If a hair treatment serum includes hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, the hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride can be characterized as a thickening agent or as a cationic revitalizing polymer, but does not simultaneously serve as a thickening agent and a cationic revitalizing polymer.
[0134] Non-limiting examples of cationic revitalizing polymers include copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and l-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (called polyquaternium-16); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (called polyquaternium-11); a cationic polymer containing a quaternary diallyl ammonium compound including, For example, the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and the copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (called polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7); polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic cellulose is available as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted with a trimethylammonium substituted epoxide (called polyquaternium-10). Another type of cationic cellulose includes quaternary ammonium polymers of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted with a lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (called polyquaternium-24). In addition, or alternatively, cationic revitalizing polymers may include or be selected from cationic derivatives of guar gum, such as hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride.
[0135] In some embodiments, the one or more cationic revitalizing polymers include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose, cationic starch, and cationic guar gum. In the context of this disclosure, cationic polysaccharide polymers include cationic polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives (e.g., derivatized to be cationic), for example, resulting in cationic cellulose (cellulose derivatized to be cationic), cationic starch (derivatized to be cationic), and cationic guar (guar derivatized to be cationic).Non-limiting examples of cationic celluloses include hydroxyethylcellulose (also known as HEC), hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (also known as HPC), hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (also known as HPMC), cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, and mixtures thereof, preferably polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.
[0136] Non-limiting examples of cationic guar include hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
[0137] Non-limiting examples of cationic starch include hydroxypropyltrimonium starch chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium starch oxidized chloride, and mixtures thereof.
[0138] In preferred embodiments, one or more cationic revitalizing polymers are selected from polyquaterniums. Non-limiting examples of polyquaterniums include polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, etc.In some cases, preferred polyquaternium compounds include polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, or mixtures thereof. Ideally, the hair treatment serum includes polyquaternium-4.
[0139] The total amount of one or more cationic revitalizing polymers in the hair treatment serum will vary. However, the hair treatment serum typically includes from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic revitalizing polymers.In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 1% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 2% by weight, or approximately 0.2 to approximately 1% by weight one or more cationic revitalizing polymers, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum.Preferably, the hair treatment serum includes about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.2 to about 1% by weight of one or more cationic revitalizing polymers. a. Miscellaneous ingredients#
[0140] The hair treatment serum optionally includes one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the hair treatment serum and that do not disrupt or materially affect the basic and innovative properties of the hair treatment serum. Miscellaneous ingredients commonly used in cosmetics and hair care products are known in the art. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates, emollients, humectants, hydrotropes, fillers (e.g., organic or inorganic, such as talc, calcium carbonate, dextrin, silica, etc.), pearlescent agents, compositional colorants, etc.
[0141] In the context of this disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have an appreciable coloring effect on hair. In other words, the composition colorant is included to give the composition color for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to hair. Hair gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the hair gel to the hair does not visibly change the hair color.
[0142] In addition to the non-exhaustive list of miscellaneous ingredients presented above, components described as optional throughout this disclosure may be characterized as miscellaneous ingredients if they are not expressly presented as a required component of the hair treatment serum. Thus, the term "miscellaneous ingredient" is a general expression representing additional components that may optionally be present in quantities designated as miscellaneous ingredients.
[0143] The total quantity of miscellaneous ingredients in the hair treatment serum, if any, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. In other embodiments, the hair treatment serum includes from about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight or from about 1 to about 3% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment serum. Hair treatment processes
[0144] As its name suggests, hair treatment serum is particularly useful in hair treatment processes, especially for human scalp hair. Hair treatment serum is useful both as a rinse-out product and as a leave-in product. A "rinse-out" product refers to a composition that is rinsed and / or washed from the hair with water after or during application of the The product is applied to the hair before drying and / or styling. At least a portion of the product is washed away during rinsing and / or washing. A "leave-in" product refers to a product that is not rinsed and / or washed from the hair after or during its application. The product remains on the hair during drying and / or throughout the styling process.
[0145] Methods of using the hair treatment composition include hair care methods, hair conditioning methods, hair hydration methods, hair smoothing methods, hair frizz reduction methods, and hair shine enhancement methods. The methods include applying an effective amount of the hair treatment serum to the hair. For example, the hair treatment serum can be applied to hair in need of conditioning, hair in need of hydration, hair in need of smoothing, hair prone to curling or frizz, hair in need of shine, or any combination thereof.Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum is applied to damaged hair, for example, damaged hair in need of strengthening, hydration, revitalization, smoothing, frizz control, or a combination of these needs.
[0146] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum is applied to wet or damp hair, for example, freshly washed and possibly conditioned hair. After rinsing out shampoo and possibly conditioner, while the hair remains wet or damp, an effective amount of the hair treatment serum is applied to the wet or damp hair. During application, the hair treatment serum may be massaged, combed, or otherwise distributed over the hair and scalp. Preferably, the hair treatment serum is distributed over all of the hair, including the ends. Once the hair treatment serum has been distributed over the hair, it may be rinsed out, or the hair may be washed with shampoo and possibly treated with conditioner.In this embodiment, the hair treatment serum is a rinse-out product. Before rinsing the hair treatment serum from the hair or shampooing the hair, the hair treatment serum is preferably left on the hair for a period, for example, from about 30 seconds to about 30 minutes. The period can also be from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 15 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 10 minutes, from about 1 minute to about 5 minutes, or from about 5 minutes to about 15 minutes.
[0147] Preferably, the hair treatment serum is not rinsed or washed out of the hair but is applied as a leave-in product. After applying the hair treatment serum to wet or damp hair, it is not rinsed or washed out. Instead, the hair to which the hair treatment serum has been applied is allowed to dry, or it is force-dried, for example with a hairdryer, and then styled. Alternatively, the hair may be styled while still wet or damp and then dried. Preferred modes of implementation
[0148] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes, essentially consists of, or consists of: has. about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 1% by weight of polyglutamic acid, one of its salts, or a mixture thereof, wherein preferably polyglutamic acid, one of its salts, or a mixture thereof is selected from α-polyglutamic acid, γ-polyglutamic acid, their salts, or mixtures thereof, more preferably wherein polyglutamic acid is γ-polyglutamic acid, one of its salts, or a mixture thereof, for example selected from γ-polyglutamic acid, sodium γ-polyglutamate, potassium γ-polyglutamate, calcium γ-polyglutamate, magnesium γ-polyglutamate, zinc γ-polyglutamate, or combinations thereof, more preferably wherein γ-polyglutamic acid, one of its salts, or one of their mixtures is sodium γ-polyglutamate, potassium γ-polyglutamate, or one of their mixtures; b. about 2 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 4 to about 8% by weight of at least three oils, wherein the at least three oils comprise: i. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 2% by weight of one or more hydrocarbon oils, wherein preferably the one or more hydrocarbon oils are selected from undecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, octadecane, docosane, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated didecene, mineral oil, a liquid, petrolatum, dodecane, isododecane, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isoparaffin, isodecanephenene, hydrogenated famesene, coconut alkanes, coconut / palm alkanes, C9-C12 alkane, alkane C10-C13, the C12-C17 alkane, the C13-C15 alkane, the C13-C15 alkane, the alkane in C13-14, C14-17 alkane, C14-19 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C14-17 alkane, C14-19 alkane, C14-20 alkane, C14-22 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C21-28 alkane, C17-23 alkane, C9-12 isoalkane, C9-13 isoalkane, C9-14 isoalkane, C9-16 isoalkane, C10-11 isoalkane, C10-12 isoalkane, C10- C13, C11-C13 isoalkane, C11-C14 isoalkane, Cl2- isoalkane C14, C11-C16 isoalkane, C12-C20 isoalkane, C13- isoalkane C14, the C13-C16 isoalkane, the C14-C16 isoalkane, the C15- isoalkane C19, liquid paraffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoates or mixtures thereof, preferably wherein one or more hydrocarbon oils are selected from C13-15 alkane, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane, isohexadecane, squalane, undecane, tridecane, C13-14 alkane, C14-17 alkane, C14-19 alkane, C15-19 alkane, liquid paraffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoates or mixtures thereof, further preferably wherein one or more hydrocarbon oils are selected from squalane, liquid paraffin, Cl2-15 alcohol benzoates, hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene; ii. about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more silicone oils, wherein preferably the one or more silicone oils are selected from caprylyl methicone, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethicone, methyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetaryl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, or combinations thereof, wherein preferably the one or more silicone oils are selected from cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol, dimethicone, amodimethicone, or mixtures thereof,and even more preferably in which one or more silicone oils comprise or consist of dimethicone and amodimethicone; and, iii. about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 5% by weight of one or more ester oils, preferably wherein the one or more ester oils are selected from cetyl ethylhexanoate, hexyldecyl ethylhexanoate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, triethylhexanoin, caprylic / capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroglutamate, trimethylolpropane tricaprylate / tricaprate, C5-9 hexa dipentaerythrityl acid esters, diisostearyl malate, hexyl laurate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, ethyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl myristate, diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, adipate di-2-heptylundecyl, monoisostearic acid N-alkyl glycol, isocetyl isostearate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-hexanohexanoate, trihexanoethylate, pentaerythritol trimethylene-2-tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl gum ester, oleyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate,decyl oleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, triethyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, isocetyl stearate, butyl stearate, diisopropyl sebacate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, myristyle lactate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, octyldodecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, myristyle myristate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, laurate ethyl, hexyl laurate, diisostearyl malate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof, wherein more preferably one or more ester oils are selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl lanolinate, isopropyl ricinoleate, isopropyl stearate, isonyl nonanoate,alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl isostearate, isooctyl oleate, isocyl stearate, isonyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butylloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, eructate oleyl, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, or mixtures thereof, in which isopropyl myristate is particularly preferred;
[0149] wherein (a) and (b)(i) are in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:25, preferably a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:10, and more preferably a weight ratio of about 1:2 to about 1:5; a. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of at least two thickening agents, wherein the at least two thickening agents comprise: i. about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of one or more polyacrylic acid thickening agents, preferably one or more cross-linked polyacrylic acid thickening agents, wherein more preferably the one or more polyacrylic acid thickening agents are selected from carbomers; and ii. about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more polysaccharide thickening agents, wherein preferably the one or more polysaccharide thickening agents are selected from inulins, inulin derivatives, celluloses, cellulose derivatives, starches, starch derivatives, guar gums, guar derivatives, xanthan gums, xanthan derivatives, pullulan gums, pullulan derivatives, alginate gums, alginate derivatives, agar gums, agar derivatives, carrageenan gums, carrageenan derivatives, gellan gums, gellan derivatives, gum arabic and gum arabic derivatives, xyloses, derivatives of xylose, tragacanth gums, tragacanth derivatives and their combinations, in which more preferably,The one or more polysaccharide thickening agents are selected from celluloses, cellulose derivatives, guar gum, guar derivatives, starch, modified starch and starch derivatives, and more preferably selected from guar gum, guar derivatives, starch, modified starch, starch derivatives, and mixtures thereof selected from hydroxypropyl guar, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, crosslinked starch with octenyl succinic anhydride starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, and mixtures thereof;
[0150] wherein (a) and (c)(i) are in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 25:1, preferably a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:10, and more preferably a weight ratio of about 1:2 to about 1:5; a. about 65 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 70 to about 92% by weight, more preferably about 75 to about 90% by weight of water; b. about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more surfactants, wherein preferably the one or more surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or mixtures thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more surfactants include one or more cationic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, and optionally, one or more amphoteric surfactants; and c. optionally, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of one or more cationic revitalizing polymers, wherein the one or more cationic revitalizing polymers are selected from polyquaterniums, wherein more preferably the one or more cationic revitalizing polymers are selected from polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquatemium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquatemium-29,polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, etc. In some cases, preferred polyquaternium compounds include polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, or mixtures thereof, and even more preferably at least one or more of the cationic revitalizing polymers is polyquaternium-4; d. optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, in which preferably the one or more miscellaneous ingredients are selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates, humectants, hydrotropes, fillers (for example, organic or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, dextrin, silica, etc.), pearlescent agents, compositional colorants or mixtures thereof;
[0151] wherein the hair treatment serum is an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion, and
[0152] All percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0153] In addition, it may be advantageous for the weight ratio between the one or more hydrocarbon oils of (b)(i) and the one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents of (c)(i) to be about 1:5 to about 5:1, preferably about 1:3 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1:2 to about 2:1 ((b)(i): (c)(i)).
[0154] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum is free or substantially free of fatty alcohols.
[0155] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum is free or substantially free of hyaluronic acid, its salts, and combinations thereof.
[0156] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum is free or substantially free of anionic surfactants.
[0157] The pH of the hair treatment serum will vary. However, it typically has an acidic pH, i.e., a pH below 7. Hair itself is naturally acidic, having a pH of about 3.5 to about 4.5. The natural pH of the scalp is about 5.5, which is slightly higher than the pH of the hair. The acidic pH of the hair treatment serum is useful for maintaining the optimal natural pH of the hair and scalp. Various hair treatments such as oxidative coloring, bleaching, chemical styling, and even shampooing can disrupt the natural pH of the hair and scalp and lead to dryness, frizz, and even dandruff. Preferably, the pH of the hair treatment serum is about 4.5 to about 6.5, more preferably about 5 to about 6.5, and even more preferably about 5.5 to about 6.5.
[0158] The viscosity of the hair treatment serum will vary. However, in some embodiments, the viscosity of the hair treatment serum is approximately 10,000 to approximately 20,000 cP at 25 °C, measured with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using the Helipath TC 93 spindle and a rotation speed of 5 rpm. The viscosity of the hair treatment serum is preferably approximately 100 to approximately 15,000 cP, more preferably approximately 1,000 to approximately 12,000 cP, and even more preferably approximately 5,000 to approximately 10,000 cP at 25 °C, measured with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using a Helipath TC 93 spindle and a rotation speed of 5 rpm.
[0159] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum includes, essentially consists of, or consists of: a. about 0.05 to about 2% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 1% by weight of sodium γ-polyglutamate, potassium γ-polyglutamate, or one of their mixtures; b. about 2 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 4 to about 8% by weight of at least three oils, wherein the at least three oils comprise: i. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 2% by weight of one or more hydrocarbon oils, wherein the one or more hydrocarbon oils are preferably selected from undecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, octadecane, docosane, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated didecene, mineral oil, liquid, petrolatum, dodecane, isododecane, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isoparaffin, isodecanephenene, hydrogenated farnesene, liquid paraffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoates, hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene, wherein even more Preferably, one or more hydrocarbon oils are chosen from squalane, liquid paraffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoates, hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene,and even more preferably in which one or more hydrocarbon oils are squalane; ii. about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more silicone oils, wherein preferably the one or more silicone oils are selected from caprylyl methicone, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethicone, methyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetaryl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(alkoxy Cl3-15) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, or mixtures thereof, wherein preferably the hair treatment compositions include at least two silicones, wherein the at least two silicones comprise or consist of dimethicone and amodimethicone; and iii. about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 5% by weight of one or more ester oils, preferably wherein the one or more ester oils are selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl lanolinate, isopropyl ricinoleate, isopropyl stearate, isononyl nonanoate, alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isononanoate cetearyl, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butylloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate,oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, or mixtures thereof, in which isopropyl myristate is particularly preferred;
[0160] wherein (a) and (b)(i) are in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:25, preferably a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:10, and more preferably a weight ratio of about 1:2 to about 1:5; a. about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of at least two thickening agents, wherein the at least two thickening agents comprise or consist of: i. about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, more preferably about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of one or more polyacrylic acid thickening agents, preferably one or more cross-linked polyacrylic acid thickening agents, more preferably wherein the one or more polyacrylic acid thickening agents are selected from carbomers, for example, selected from carbomer 981, carbomer 934, carbomer 934P, carbomer 940, carbomer 941, carbomer 1342, polycarbophil, calcium polycarbophil, or mixtures thereof; and ii. about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more polysaccharide thickening agents, preferably at least two polysaccharide thickening agents, wherein preferably at least one of the at least two polysaccharide thickening agents is selected from guar gum, guar derivatives, or mixtures thereof, and at least one of the at least two polysaccharide thickening agents is selected from starch, modified starch, starch derivatives, or mixtures thereof, even more preferably wherein the hair treatment serum includes hydroxypropyl guar and at least one of starch, modified starch, starch derivatives, or mixtures thereof, preferably wherein the hair treatment serums include hydroxypropyl guar and modified starch, for example, modified potato starch;
[0161] wherein (a) and (c)(i) are in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 25:1, preferably a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:10, and more preferably a weight ratio of about 1:2 to about 1:5; a. about 65 to about 95% by weight, preferably about 70 to about 92% by weight, more preferably about 75 to about 90% by weight of water; b. about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more surfactants, wherein preferably the one or more surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or mixtures thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more surfactants include one or more cationic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, and optionally one or more amphoteric surfactants, wherein the one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearmonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behennamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, chloride of stearamidopropyltrimonium, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride,tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, , behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, rarachidamidopropyldimethylamine, rarachidamidopropyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethylidiethylamine, arachidamidoethylidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, preferably wherein one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearmonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, and dicetyldimonium, tricetylmonium chloride, and even more preferably in which the hair treatment serum includes a combination of cetrimonium chloride and behentrimonium chloride; and c. about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of one or more cationic revitalizing polymers, preferably wherein the one or more cationic revitalizing polymers are selected from polyquaterniums, in which more preferably the one or more cationic revitalizing polymers are selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, or mixtures thereof, and even more preferably wherein the one or more cationic revitalizing polymers comprise or consist of polyquaternium-4; d. about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, wherein preferably the one or more miscellaneous ingredients are selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates, humectants, hydrotropes, fillers (for example, organic or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, dextrin, silica, etc.), pearlescent agents, compositional colorants or mixtures thereof;
[0162] wherein the hair treatment serum is an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion, and
[0163] All percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the hair treatment serum.
[0164] In addition, it may be advantageous for the weight ratio between the one or more hydrocarbon oils of (b)(i) and the one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents of (c)(i) to be about 1:5 to about 5:1, preferably about 1:3 to about 3:1, more preferably about 1:2 to about 2:1 ((b)(i): (c)(i)).
[0165] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum is free or substantially free of fatty alcohols.
[0166] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum is free or substantially free of hyaluronic acid, its salts, and combinations thereof.
[0167] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment serum is free or substantially free of anionic surfactants.
[0168] The pH of the hair treatment serum will vary. However, it typically has an acidic pH, i.e., a pH below 7. Hair itself is naturally acidic, having a pH of about 3.5 to about 4.5. The natural pH of the scalp is about 5.5, which is slightly higher than the pH of the hair. The acidic pH of the hair treatment serum is useful for maintaining the optimal natural pH of the hair and scalp. Various hair treatments such as oxidative coloring, bleaching, chemical styling, and even shampooing can disrupt the natural pH of the hair and scalp and lead to dryness, frizz, and even dandruff. Preferably, the pH of the hair treatment serum is about 4.5 to about 6.5, more preferably about 5 to about 6.5, and even more preferably about 5.5 to about 6.5.
[0169] The viscosity of the hair treatment serum will vary. However, in some embodiments, the viscosity of the hair treatment serum is approximately 10,000 to approximately 20,000 cP at 25 °C, measured with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using the Helipath TC 93 spindle and a rotation speed of 5 rpm. The viscosity of the hair treatment serum is preferably approximately 100 to approximately 15,000 cP, more preferably approximately 1,000 to approximately 12,000 cP, and even more preferably approximately 5,000 to approximately 10,000 cP at 25 °C, measured with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using a Helipath TC 93 spindle and a rotation speed of 5 rpm. EXAMPLES
[0170] Various changes can be made to the above compositions and processes without departing from the scope of the invention. Accordingly, it is anticipated that the entire of the disclosure in the description above and in the examples given below, be interpreted in an illustrative and not limiting sense. Example 1 Hair treatment serums
[0171] [Tables] TABLE 1 Inventory Comparative A 1 2 3 (a) Gamma Polyglutamine SODIUM POLYGLUTAME 0.2 0.2 0.2 (b) (i) Hydrocarbonate Oil SQUALANE 0.5 0.5 0.5 (ü) Silicone Oil DIMETHICONE AND AMODIMETHICONE 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 (ü i) Ester Oil DTS OPROPYL MYRISTATE 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Total Oil 6.8 6.8 6.3 6.8 Weight Ratio (a):(b)(i) 1:2.5 1:2.5 (c) (i) Polyacrylic Acid Based Thickener Carbomer 0.5 0.5 0.5 (ü) Polysaccharide Thickening Agent HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR AND MODIFIED AMID ON 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Total polymer thickener 1 1 1 1 Weight ratio of (a): (c)(i) 1:2.5 1:2.5 1:2.5 (d) Water WATER QS QS QS QS (e) Surfactants TRIDECETH-6, CO-BETAINE, CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE AND CHL 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 TRIMONIUM BEHEN GOLD (f) Cationic revitalizing polymer POLYQUATERNIU M-4 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (g) MISCELLANEOUS* <5 <5 < 5 <5 PH 6.2 ND 3 6 Viscosity (cP) at 25 °C 1 7800 10200 12600 Performance Attributes Wet Combing REFERENCE NON-STABILIZED 2 2 4 Smooth texture when wet 2 3 Dry Combing 3 2 Smooth texture when dry 3 3 Lightweight 4 3 Anti-frizz 4 2
[0172] * MISCELLANEOUS: optionally, preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates, emollients, humectants, hydrotropes, fillers (e.g., organic or inorganic, such as talc, calcium carbonate, dextrin, silica, etc.), pearlescent agents, compositional colorants, etc.
[0173] 1 Measured at 25 °C with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using a Helipath TC 93 spindle and a rotation speed of 5 rpm.
[0174] 2 Separate phase. Example 2 Performance tests
[0175] The hair treatment serums of Example 1 were tested on heavily bleached hair strands (SA45, 2.7 g, 27 cm) and compared. Each strand was first cleaned with a standard cleansing shampoo. After cleaning the strands and rinsing the shampoo from the hair, excess water was removed from the hair strands using a dry towel. Equal amounts of inventive serum A and comparative serums 1 to 3 were applied to different hair strands and diffused by massaging through the hair fibers. Without rinsing or removing the serums from the hair, the hair strands were blow-dried and evaluated by A panel of three experts assessed the following characteristics: combability when wet, smooth texture when wet, combability when dry, smooth texture when dry, lightness, and anti-frizz. All characteristics were compared to the strand treated with inventive serum A on a scale of 1 to 5; that is, the strand treated with inventive serum A was used as the reference, and the strands treated with the comparative serums were evaluated against the reference according to the following scale:
[0176] 1 Better than the inventive serum;
[0177] 2 Slightly better than the inventive serum;
[0178] 3 Equivalent to the inventive serum;
[0179] 4 Slightly inferior to the inventive serum; and
[0180] 5 Inferior to the inventive serum.
[0181] The scores were averaged and are shown in Table 1 of Example 1. Comparative serum 1 was not tested because it did not form a stable serum. Upon preparation, comparative serum 1 was phase-separated. The data show that inventive serum A was lighter and provided more frizz control to the hair than comparative serum 2. In addition, hair treated with inventive serum A was slightly easier to comb when dry (best score for dry combing) and slightly smoother than hair treated with comparative serum 2. Hair treated with inventive serum A was also easier to comb when wet (best score for wet combing) than hair treated with comparative serum 4.In addition, inventive serum A provided a slightly smoother texture on both wet and dry hair and slightly better frizz control than comparator serum 4. A photo of the strands is provided in [Fig. 1]. Example 3 Hair treatment serums
[0182] [Tables2] TABLE 2 Comparative Inventory A 4 (a) Gamma Polyglutamate SODIUM POLYGLUTAMATE 0.2 (b) (i) Hydrocarbon Oil SQUALANE 0.5 (u) Silicone Oil DIMETHICONE AND AMO DIMETHICONE 2.7 2.7 (iii) Isopropyl Myristate Ester Oil 3.5 3.5 Total Oil 6.8 6.3 Weight Ratio of (a):(b)(i) 1:2.5 ND (c) (i) Polyacrylic Acid Based Thickener CARBOMER 0.5 0.5 (ü) Polysaccharide Thickening Agent HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR AND MODIFIED STARCH 0.6 0.6 Total Thickening Polymers 1 1 Weight Ratio of (a):(c)(i) 1:2.5 1:2.5 (d) Water WATER 89 89 (e) Surfactants TRIDECETH-6, COCO-BETAINE, CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE AND BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.5 0.5 (f) Cationic Revitalizing Polymer POLYQUATERNIUM-4 0.3 0.3 (g) MISCELLANEOUS* < 5 <5 pH 6.2 Not measured Viscosity (cP) at 25 °C 1 7800 Performance Attributes Softness on dry hair 1 Reference Smoothness on dry hair 1 Moisture on dry hair 2 Touch feel 2
[0183] * MISCELLANEOUS: optionally, preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates, emollients, humectants, hydrotropes, fillers (e.g., organic or inorganic, such as talc, calcium carbonate, dextrin, silica, etc.), pearlescent agents, compositional colorants, etc.
[0184] 1 Measured at 25 °C with a Brookfield DV-LL+ Pro viscometer using a Helipath TC 93 spindle and a rotation speed of 5 rpm. Example 4 Performance tests
[0185] The hair treatment serums of Example 3 were tested on heavily bleached hair strands (SA45, 2.7 g, 27 cm) and compared. Each strand was first cleansed with a standard cleansing shampoo. After cleansing the strands and rinsing the shampoo from the hair, excess water was removed from the hair strands using a dry towel. Equal amounts of inventive serum A and comparative serum 4 were applied to different hair strands and distributed by massaging through the hair fibers. Without rinsing the serums from the hair, the hair strands were blow-dried and evaluated by a panel of three experts for the following characteristics: softness, smooth texture, hydration, and tactile feel.All characteristics were compared to the wick treated with comparative serum 4 on a scale of 1 to 5, i.e. the wick treated with comparative serum 4 was used as reference and the wick treated with inventive serum A was evaluated against the reference according to the following scale: .
[0186] 1 Better than the comparator serum
[0187] 2 Slightly better than the comparator serum
[0188] 3 Equivalent to comparator serum
[0189] 4 Slightly lower than the comparator serum
[0190] 5 Lower than comparator serum
[0191] The scores were averaged and are shown in Table 2 of Example 3. The data show that the hair treated with inventive serum A was softer and smoother than the hair strands treated with comparator serum B. The hair strands treated with inventive serum A were also slightly more hydrated and had a slightly better tactile feel. A photograph of the strands is provided in [Fig. 2].
[0192] The surfactants referred to throughout the disclosure may include those having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive.
[0193] Some of the various categories of ingredients identified for hair treatment serums may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the serum includes two (or more than two) overlapping ingredients, an overlapping ingredient does not represent more than one claimed ingredient. For example, a fatty acid may be considered as once as an "oil" and separately as a "nonionic surfactant." If a serum claims to be an oil and separately a nonionic surfactant, only one fatty acid in the serum will serve solely as an oil or solely as a nonionic surfactant. A single fatty acid cannot simultaneously serve as both an oil and a nonionic surfactant.
[0194] A "rinse-out" product refers to a composition that is rinsed and / or washed from the hair with water after or during application of the composition to the hair, and before drying and / or styling the hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the hair during rinsing and / or washing.
[0195] A "leave-in" product refers to a composition that is not rinsed and / or washed from the hair after or during its application. The composition remains on the hair during drying and / or throughout styling.
[0196] The term "surfactant" (or "emulsifier") includes salts of the surfactant, to the extent that they exist, even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant (or surfactants), it is understood that salts of the surfactants are also encompassed to the extent that they exist, even if the patent brief may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in all instances throughout the disclosure), for example, by using language such as "one of its (their) salts" or "its (their) salts." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants. However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanoammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, may also form salts of surfactants.
Claims
Demands
1. Hair treatment serum, comprising: (a) about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of polyglutamic acid, one of its salts or a mixture thereof; (b) about 2 to about 10% by weight of one or more oils, wherein at least one of the one or more oils is a hydrocarbon oil; (c) about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more thickening agents, wherein at least one of the one or more thickening agents is a polyacrylic acid-based thickening agent; and (d) water; wherein the hair treatment serum is an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion, and all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the hair treatment serum.
2. Hair treatment serum according to claim 1, wherein (a) and (b)(i) are in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:25 ((a):(b)(i)).
3. Hair treatment serum according to claim 1, wherein (a) and (c)(i) are in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:25 ((a):(c)(i)).
4. Hair treatment serum according to claim 1, wherein polyglutamic acid, its salt, or a mixture thereof is selected from α-polyglutamic acid, γ-polyglutamic acid, its salts, or a mixture thereof.
5. Hair treatment serum according to claim 1, wherein polyglutamic acid, its salt, or mixture thereof is selected from γ-polyglutamic acid, sodium γ-polyglutamate, potassium γ-polyglutamate, calcium γ-polyglutamate, magnesium γ-polyglutamate, zinc γ-polyglutamate, or mixtures thereof.
6. Hair treatment serum according to claim 1, wherein the hydrocarbon oil is selected from undecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, octadecane, docosane, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated didecene, mineral oil, liquid, petrolatum, dodecane, isododecane, isoeicosane, isohexadecane, isoparaffin, isodecanefarnesene, hydrogenated famesene, coconut alkanes, coconut / palm alkanes, C9-C12 alkane, C10-C13 alkane, alkane, C12-C17 alkane, C13-C15 alkane, C13-C15 alkane, C13-C14 alkane, C14-C17 alkane, C14-C19 alkane, C15-C19 alkane, C14-C17 alkane, C14-C19 alkane C14-C20, C14-C22 alkane, C15-C19 alkane, C21-C28 alkane, C17-C23 alkane, C9-C12 isoalkane, C9-C13 isoalkane, C9-C14 isoalkane, C9-C16 isoalkane, C10-C11 isoalkane, C10-C12 isoalkane, C10-C13 isoalkane, C11-C13 isoalkane, C11-C14 isoalkane, C12-C14 isoalkane, C11-C16 isoalkane, C12-C20 isoalkane, C13-C14 isoalkane, C13-C16 isoalkane, C14-C16 isoalkane, C15-C19 isoalkane or mixtures thereof.
7. Hair treatment serum according to claim 1, wherein polyacrylic acid, its salt, or a mixture thereof is a homopolymer of crosslinked polyacrylic acid.
8. Hair treatment serum, comprising: (a) about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of γ-polyglutamic acid, one of its salts, or one of their mixtures; (b) about 2 to about 10% by weight of one or more oils, wherein the one or more oils comprise: (i) about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more hydrocarbon oils; (ii) approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more silicone oils; and (iii) about 1 to about 8% by weight of one or more ester oils; in which (a) and (b)(i) are in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:25; (c) about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more thickening agents, wherein the one or more thickening agents comprise: (i) approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight of one or more polyacrylic acid-based thickening agents; and (ii) about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of one or more polysaccharide thickening agents; in which (a) and (c)(i) are in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:25; (d) about 65 to about 92% by weight of water; (e) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more surfactants; and (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of one or more cationic conditioning polymers; in which the hair treatment serum is an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion, and all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the hair treatment serum.
9. Hair treatment serum according to claim 8, wherein one or more silicone oils are selected from caprylyl methicone, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethicone, methyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(alkoxy Cl3-15) PG amodimethicones, aminophenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, or combinations thereof.
10. A hair treatment method comprising applying the hair treatment serum according to claim 1 to the hair.