Cosmetic composition comprising an amino compound, a sequestering agent, tocopherol, a fatty substance and an antioxidant (poly)phenolic agent.
A cosmetic composition with amino compounds, sequestering agents, tocopherol, and polyphenolic antioxidants stabilizes tocopherol, addressing stability issues and maintaining aesthetic quality.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024006723
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-26
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic compositions containing tocopherol, fatty substances, and polyphenolic antioxidant agents face stability issues due to oxidation, leading to yellowing and rancid odor, which affect their aesthetic quality and efficacy.
A cosmetic composition comprising amino compounds, sequestering agents, tocopherol, fatty substances, and polyphenolic antioxidants, which stabilizes tocopherol and maintains color and odor stability under light and heat exposure.
The composition maintains physico-chemical stability, preventing yellowing and rancid odor, ensuring good sensory properties over time.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising an amino compound, a sequestering agent, tocopherol, a fatty substance and an antioxidant (poly)phenolic agent.
[0001] The invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, comprising: i) one or more amino compound(s) of formula (I), its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or their mixture; ii) one or more sequestering agent(s); iii) of tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or a mixture thereof; (iv) one or more fats; and (v) one or more (poly)phenolic antioxidant(s).
[0002] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous materials, in particular facial and / or body skin, comprising applying said composition to said keratinous materials.
[0003] The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care of the skin of the body and / or face.
[0004] In the cosmetic care field, compositions that provide both good sensory properties and a care effect are increasingly sought after by users.
[0005] The compositions of the invention are intended in particular to mask skin imperfections, hydrate the skin and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, especially increasing with age.
[0006] The preservation of these skincare compositions can present certain challenges. Indeed, cosmetic skincare compositions are expected to remain stable over time, particularly with regard to color and odor.
[0007] We observed that it was difficult to stabilize compositions comprising tocopherol or one of its derivatives, one or more fatty substances and one or more (poly)phenolic antioxidant agents.
[0008] Indeed, this combination leads to stability problems in certain compositions, particularly when exposed to light and / or heat. Specifically, the formation of a yellow halo on the surface and a rancid odor have been observed in some formulas. This evolution of the product does not affect its efficacy or safety but may lead to consumer feedback regarding its aesthetic quality. of the product. The product may appear unfit for consumption in the eyes of the consumer.
[0009] This yellowing is the result of a surface oxidation phenomenon. Tocopherol, known to be a good antioxidant, protects fats from rancidity. If the tocopherol is not stabilized, it no longer performs its antioxidant function. The cosmetic composition yellows and develops a rancid odor.
[0010] Consequently, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions comprising tocopherol or one of its derivatives, one or more fatty substances and one or more (poly)phenolic antioxidant agents which remain stable (no yellowing or yellow halo observed for example) particularly over time (for example at a temperature between 4°C and 45°C, such as 25°C for several weeks or even months), and which, after application to keratinous materials, exhibit good sensory properties such as touch.
[0011] In addition, it is desirable that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have an odor which changes little over time, particularly at a temperature between 4°C and 45°C, such as 25°C.
[0012] We have found, surprisingly, that a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising: (i) one or more amino compound(s) of formula (I), its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; ii) one or more sequestering agent(s); iii) of tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or a mixture thereof; (iv) one or more fats; and (v) one or more (poly)phenolic antioxidant agents. allows for the physico-chemical stabilization of tocopherol or one of its derivatives and thus good stability properties of the composition, in particular of the color (no yellowing of the composition) and of the odor such as the rancid odor when exposed to light and / or heat.
[0013] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: i) one or more amino compound(s) of formula (I), its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or their mixture: [Chem. 1] Formula (I) in which: - Ri designates an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably linear; and c) -C(O)-R6; - R2, R3, and R4, whether identical or different, designate an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a hydroxyl group; and c) an amine group; d) a linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably linear; - R5 designates an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; and b) a linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably linear; - R6 designates an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; and b) a linear (C1-C4) alkyl group; ii) one or more sequestering agent(s); iii) of tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or a mixture thereof; (iv) one or more fats; and (v) one or more (poly)phenolic antioxidant agents.
[0014] According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, in particular on keratinous materials, especially the skin.
[0015] It includes in particular a “cosmetically acceptable” medium also called a “physiologically acceptable” medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratinous materials, in particular the skin.
[0016] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratinous materials" means the skin and its appendages.
[0017] By “skin”, we mean human skin, in particular of the face and / or body, the scalp.
[0018] By “annexes” we mean human keratinous fibres, in particular eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, and hair, in particular eyelashes and hair.
[0019] By "alkyl" is meant a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group of the type (Cx-Cy), linear or branched, comprising x to y carbon atoms, for example a C-C6 alkyl, implies an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably the alkyl group is a C1-C4 group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, i-propyl, butyl, i-butyl, t-butyl.
[0020] By "organic or mineral acid salt" is meant more particularly salts selected from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) succinic acid; vii) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; viii) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; ix) phosphoric acid H3PO4; x) (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylic acid such as acetic acid CH3C(O)OH, citric acid, tartaric acid; lactic acid; xi) triflic acid CF3SO3H and xii) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4;as well as so-called "acidic" amino acid salts such as glutamic acid salts and aspartic acid;
[0021] By "organic or mineral base salts" we mean the salts of bases or of alkali agents such as alkali metal hydroxides like soda, potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines or even the salts of so-called "basic" amino acids such as lysine or arginine.
[0022] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, characterized by the fact that a composition according to the present invention is applied to said materials.
[0023] Furthermore, the invention also relates to the use of said composition in the cosmetic field, in particular for the care of the skin of the body or face.
[0024] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0025] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". (i) Amino compound(s) of formula (I)
[0026] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises (i) an amine compound of formula (I), its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or a mixture thereof:
[0027] [Chem.2]
[0028] Formula (I) wherein: - Ri designates an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably linear; and c) -C(O)-R6 - R2, R3, R4, whether identical or different, designate an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a hydroxyl group; c) an amine group; and - R5 designates an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) (C1-C4) linear or branched alkyl, preferably linear; - R6 designates an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; and b) a linear (C1-C4) alkyl group.
[0029] According to one embodiment of the present invention, Ri designates an atom or group chosen from a) a hydrogen atom and b) a linear (C1-C4 alkyl) group, more preferably Ri represents a hydrogen atom.
[0030] According to one embodiment of the present invention, R2, R3, R4, identical or different, designate an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a hydroxyl group.
[0031] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, R2, R3 and R4 are identical and represent in particular a hydrogen atom.
[0032] According to one embodiment of the present invention, R5 designates a hydrogen atom.
[0033] Preferably, the compound of formula (I), its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, is chosen from proline, its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates, hydroxyproline, its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or their mixture, more preferably chosen from proline, its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates.
[0034] Advantageously the compound of formula (I) is proline and more particularly L-Proline.
[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of the compound(s) of formula (I), its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or their mixture is greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0036] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the amount of proline, its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or their mixture is greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (ii) Sequestration
[0037] The composition according to the invention comprises (ii) one or more sequestering agent(s).
[0038] The definition of a "sequestering agent" (or "chelating agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion.
[0039] A “chelate” is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, that is to say, it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
[0040] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0041] Within the framework of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.
[0042] The salts include, in particular, salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0043] As sequestration agents (ii), examples include: (a) Aminocarboxylic acids and their salts, such as the following compounds: ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their salts such as EDTA 2Na and EDTA 4Na, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (such as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic-N,N'-Diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA)-based chelating agents (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglynic acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid, such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Akzo Nobel's Dissolvine GL38 or 45S or GL-47-S; , (b) hydroxycarboxylic acids and their salts, such as citric acid and its salts, for example, sodium citrate, in particular disodium citrate; (c) chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acids and their salts, such as compounds with the following INCI names: diethylenetriaminepenta(met-hylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) and hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), their salts and derivatives, and (d) chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acids and their salts, such as compounds with the following INCI names: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, Phytic acid, their salts and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0044] According to a preferred embodiment, the sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from aminocarboxylic acids and their salts, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their salts, and more particularly from aminocarboxylic acids.
[0045] Preferably, the sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, citric acid and its salts, N,N- bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamic acid and its salts, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), metaphosphates (e.g., sodium metaphosphate), and mixtures thereof.
[0046] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents (ii) are preferably chosen from diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
[0047] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
[0048] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.
[0049] When the composition includes one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) is greater than or equal to 0.001 and less than or equal to 15% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.005 and less than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.01 and less than or equal to 8% by weight, even better greater than or equal to 0.05 and less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (iii) Tocopherol
[0050] The composition according to the invention comprises (iii) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixtures thereof.
[0051] Tocopherol preferably corresponds to α-tocopherol, or vitamin E. Its structure is the following formula (IV):
[0052] [Chem.3] (ivj
[0053] By "tocopherol derivative" is preferably understood tocopherol esters and ethers, tocotrienols and their optical and geometric isomers, preferably C1-C24 carboxylic acid esters, preferably C2-C18 esters, and C1-C24 alcohol ethers, preferably C2-C18 esters, particularly tocopherol and carboxylic acid esters, especially (C1-C22)alkylcarboxylic acid, (C2-C22)alkenylcarboxylic acid, (hetero)arylcarboxylic acid such as pyridinic carboxylic acids or ethers from (CrC22)alkanols, or (C2-C22)alkenols such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, linoleate of tocopherol, or tocopherol nicotinate, or a mixture thereof.
[0054] One can cite, for example, the product DL Alpha Tocopheryl acetate® marketed by the company EISAI.
[0055] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate.
[0056] Preferably, the amount of (iii) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixtures thereof in the composition is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 7% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (iv) Fatty substances
[0057] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more body types.
[0058] The term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0059] Preferably, the body (or bodies) is (or are) present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better greater than or equal to 7% and less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0060] Oil(s)
[0061] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oil(s), preferably in an amount greater than 0.1% and less than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] Preferably, the oil(s) is / are present in a total quantity ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 7% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] By "total" quantity, it is understood that if there are several oils of different natures, the total quantity by weight of oils of different natures is taken into consideration. For example, if the composition includes non-volatile polar oils (a) and volatile oils 1b) and non-volatile apolar 2a and volatile 2b), we will take into consideration the sum of the weight quantities of la)+lb)+2a) +2b).
[0064] The term “oil” means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.
[0065] In particular, the oil(s) suitable for the invention can be chosen from polar oils, non-polar oils and mixtures thereof, preferably the oil(s) suitable for the invention is / are non-polar. 1) Polar Oil(s)
[0066] The oil(s) according to the present invention may be chosen from among polar oils.
[0067] Among the polar oils that can be used in the present invention are: volatile or non-volatile polar oils, these polar oils can be hydrocarbon oils in particular of vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0068] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0069] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.
[0070] By "polar oil", in the context of the present invention, we mean an oil whose solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C is different from 0 (J / cm3)' / 2.
[0071] In particular, "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one electronegative heteroatom such as an atom of oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus, preferably oxygen, and nitrogen, more preferably oxygen.
[0072] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional HANSEN solubility space are described in the article by CM HANSEN: “The three dimensional solubility parameters” J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
[0073] According to this Hansen space: - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces arising from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular collisions; - ôp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa= (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2. The parameters ôp, ôh, ôDet ôas are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.
[0074] Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention, have a δ between 4 and 9.1, preferably a δ between 6 and 9.1, even better between 7.3 and 9.1. a) Non-volatile polar oil(s)
[0075] For the purposes of the present invention, "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg) at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Non-volatile oils may, in particular, be selected from hydrocarbon oils, possibly fluorinated, and / or non-volatile silicone oils.
[0076] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) suitable for implementing the invention, the following may be mentioned in particular:
[0077] a) vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutanate, for example sold under the name ELDEW PS203® by AJINOMOTO, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, the fatty acids of which comprise at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprising 4 to 24 carbon atoms; These oils include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, camelina oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and rosehip oil;shea butter oil (shea olein); or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by DYNAMIT NOBEL, refined vegetable perhydrosqualene marketed under the name Fitoderm by Cognis.
[0078] a2) synthetic esters such as oils of formula R'-C-(O)-OR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly linear or branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, it being understood that the sum of R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen from among the esters, particularly fatty acid esters, such as:
[0079] - cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters and fatty acid in C8-C18, preferably C12-C16 such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and palmitate ethyl 2-hexyl, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate,isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate;
[0080] - polyol esters, and pentaerythritol esters, such as tetrahydroxystearate / dipentaerythritol tetraisostearate,
[0081] - diol and diacid dimer esters such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, marketed by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application FR 03 02809,
[0082] a3) liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, said alcohols comprise at least one branched and / or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, even better 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol,
[0083] a4) the higher fatty acids R'-C(O)-OH with RI as defined above such that oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures,
[0084] a5) the di-alkyl carbonates RrO-C(O)-O-R2, preferably Ri and R2 represent a saturated hydrocarbon chain, identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,
[0085] a6) dicarboxylic acid diesters with a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in C2-Ci6, particularly in C8-Ci2, and of monoalcohol with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in C1-C4, preferably of a monoalcohol with a saturated hydrocarbon chain branched in C3-C4; more preferably a6) is chosen from the diester of sebacic acid and alcohol isopropyl such as isopropyl sebacate marketed under the name DUB DIS by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS,
[0086] a7) non-volatile silicone oils, such as for example the non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes with dangling and / or end-on alkyl or alkoxy groups of silicone, each group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of 100 cSt or less, and
[0087] - their mixtures. lb) Volatile polar oil(s)
[0088] For the purposes of the present invention, "volatile oil(s)" means one or more oils (or non-aqueous media) capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) is / are cosmetic volatile, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0089] As volatile oil(s), volatile silicones can be used, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (8.106 m2 / s), and having in particular 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0090] Examples of usable volatile silicone oil(s) in the invention include dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used. A mixture of the aforementioned oils may also be used.
[0091] Preferably, the oil(s) i) according to the present invention is / are chosen from polar oils 1), more preferably non-volatile 1a). 2) Non-polar oil(s)
[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) is / are chosen from among non-polar oils.
[0093] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polar oil(s) 1) and one or more non-polar oil(s) 2). More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises a polar oil 1) and a non-polar oil 2).
[0094] Preferably the non-polar oil(s) 2) is (or are) present in a total quantity greater than 0.1% and less than or equal to 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] More preferably, the non-polar oil(s) 2) is (or are) present in a total quantity ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 15% to 45% by weight of non-polar oil, or the composition is free of non-polar oil.
[0096] By "non-polar oil(s)", in the context of the present invention, we mean one or more oil(s) whose solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C as defined above is equal to 0 (J / cm3)' / 2.
[0097] Among the non-polar oil(s), we can cite, for example: 2a) Non-polar, non-volatile oil(s)
[0098] The hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral or synthetic origin such as, for example: linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, ethers having from 6 to 25 carbon atoms more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as paream, squalane, and their mixtures, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene, dicaprylyl ether and their mixtures, better still dicaprylyl ether. 2b) Volatile non-polar oil(s)
[0099] The volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 25 linear or branched carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and in particular:
[0100] - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®; - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97; - mixtures of alkanes whose chains comprise 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cétiol UT®), mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis, mixtures of C9-Ci2 alkanes whose hydrocarbon chains comprise 9 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes.
[0101] - and their mixtures.
[0102] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from non-volatile polar oils 1a) and non-volatile non-polar oils 2a) or a mixture thereof, more preferably chosen from 1a) vegetable hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile non-polar oils 2a) or a mixture thereof, preferably squalane, shea butter oil or a mixture thereof.
[0103] Butter
[0104] Butters can also be used.
[0105] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.
[0106] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0107] We can mention more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Eatifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.
[0108] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.
[0109] Shea butter is known to be extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.
[0110] According to a preferred embodiment, the fat(s) is / are chosen from polar oils 1), non-polar oils 2), butters and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from non-volatile polar oils 1a), non-volatile non-polar oils 2a), butters and mixtures thereof, better chosen from 1a) vegetable hydrocarbon oils, 2a) non-volatile non-polar oils, butters and mixtures thereof, better chosen from shea butter oil, squalane, shea butter and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from squalane and shea butter. .
[0111] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from non-polar oils, preferably chosen from dicaprylyl ether, squalane, or hemisqualane and mixtures thereof, more preferably squalane.
[0112] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of a non-polar oil and a butter. (v) Polyphenolic antioxidant agent
[0113] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more polyphenolic antioxidant agent(s).
[0114] For the purposes of this invention, "antioxidant agent" means an agent that slows down or prevents the oxidation of other chemical substances in contact with it.
[0115] For the purposes of this invention, "polyphenolic" means a compound comprising at least two aromatic rings substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups in ortho, meta and / or para positions.
[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyphenolic antioxidant agent(s) is / are of natural origin.
[0117] Preferably, the polyphenolic antioxidant agent(s) are derived from a plant, algae or fungus extract, more preferably the antioxidant agent(s) are derived from a plant extract, better the (poly)phenolic antioxidant agent(s) (v) are derived from a flower extract such as Edelweiss.
[0118] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyphenolic antioxidant agent is selected from leontopodic acid, one of its derivatives, its basic and acid salts as well as its optical and geometric isomers.
[0119] By "leontopodic acid derivative", we preferably mean its glycosylated and acetylated forms.
[0120] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the antioxidant (poly)phenolic agent is leontopodic acid, extracted from Edelweiss with the INCI name LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM FLOWER / LEAF EXTRACT.
[0121] One can notably cite the product ALPAFLOR EDELWEISS CB marketed by the company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS.
[0122] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyphenolic antioxidant agent(s) in an amount greater than or equal to 0.0002% and less than or equal to 0.01 by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.0005% and less than or equal to 0.007% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.0007 and less than or equal to 0.005% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.001 and less than or equal to 0.003.
[0123] As mentioned above, the polyphenolic antioxidant agent can be implemented in the form of a plant extract, also referred to as "raw material," comprising one or more polyphenolic agent(s) as defined above. Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise an amount greater than or equal to 0.001% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.005% and less than or equal to 1% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 0.5% by weight of plant extract containing at least one polyphenolic antioxidant agent, relative to the total weight of said composition. Polyol(s)
[0124] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more polyol(s) having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0125] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 20% by total weight of one or more polyol(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably, the composition comprises from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight of at least one polyol, even better from 2% to 10% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0126] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups (OH).
[0127] A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, with a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH groups. Preferably, a polyol that can be used in the composition according to the invention is a linear alkyl-type compound bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH groups, preferably from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, more preferably 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups.
[0128] The polyol(s) advantageously suitable for the formulation of cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is / are the one(s) having in particular from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0129] The polyol(s) that can be used according to the present invention is / are chosen from linear polyols having from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, including, in particular: - diols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; caprylyl glycol and - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin), and their mixtures.
[0130] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol(s) having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms is / are chosen from butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from caprylyl glycol, glycerin and mixtures thereof.
[0131] According to a much preferred embodiment, the polyol is glycerin.
[0132] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at minus two polyol(s) having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. Additional asset(s)
[0133] The composition may also include at least one additional active ingredient.
[0134] Examples of active ingredients include moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents; healing agents; preservatives such as antibacterial agents; UV filters, particularly lipophilic ones, and mixtures thereof.
[0135] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of at least one active ingredient, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] The compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, lipophilic gelling and / or thickening agents; emollients; sequestrants; antioxidants; fillers; free radical scavengers; essential oils; perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; and mixtures thereof. The total quantities of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields concerned. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and may, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0137] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additives added to the composition according to the invention based on their advantageous properties. intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0138] The quantities of these different active ingredients are those classically used in the fields concerned. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and can, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0139] The composition according to the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratinous materials, in particular for the care of the skin of the body and / or face.
[0140] The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous materials, particularly human materials such as skin, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to said keratinous materials.
[0141] More particularly, the treatment process is a process for keratinous materials such as skin, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, said process is non-therapeutic, preferably for care, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to said keratinous materials.
[0142] The composition according to the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner by a person skilled in the art.
[0143] The following examples will help to better understand the invention, but are not intended to be limiting. Raw materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name. Examples
[0144] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions
[0145] Example 1 - Preparation of compositions according to the invention and comparative compositions
[0146] Compositions A1, A2, A3, B1 and B2 were prepared from the ingredients the contents of which are indicated in the table below (% active ingredient):
[0147] [Tables] Ingredients A1 (invention) B1 (comparative) A2 (invention) B2 (comparative) A3 (invention) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 BUTYROSPERMU M PARKII (SHEA) 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 BUTTER / BUTYRO SPERMUM PARKII BUTTER CITRIC ACID 0,001 0,001 0,001 0,001 0,001 TOCOPHERYL AC ETATE 0,4 0,4 0,4 0,4 0,4 ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH / ZEA MA YS STARCH 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 TOCOPHEROL 0,25 0,25 0,25 0,25 0,25 ETHYLHEXYLGLY CERIN 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 ACTIF 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 CONSERVATEUR 0,25 0,25 0,25 0,25 0,25 GLYCERYL STEAR ATE 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 PEG-100 STEARAT E 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 C14-22 ALCOHOLS 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 C12-20 ALKYL GL UCOSIDE 0,4 0,4 0,4 0,4 0,4 TETRASODIUM GL UTAMATE DIACET ATE 0,1 0,1 0,1 - 0,1 GELIFIANT 2,51 2,51 2,51 2,51 1,86 SORBITAN ISOSTE ARATE 0,11 0,11 0,11 0,11 0,1 GLYCERIN 4,34 4,34 4,34 4,34 4,34 LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM FLOWE R / LEAF EXTRACT 0,04 0,04 0,04 0,04 0,04 PARFUM 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 PROLINE 1,0 - 1,0 1,0 1,0 DIPALMITOYL HY DROXYPROLINE - 1.0 - - - ACTIVE 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 PRESERVATIVE 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 PENTAERYTHRIT YL TETRAETHYLH EXANOATE 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 SQUALANE 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 SODIUM HYDROX IDE QS pH 4.8 + / -0.3 QS pH 4.8 + / -0.3 QS pH5.l + / - 0.3 QS pH 4.8 + / -0.3 Qs pH 4.8 + / -0.3 WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100
[0148] Results by macroscopic visual observation:
[0149] [Tables2] A3 (invention) Appearance, color: Thick, smooth, glossy, and opaque cream; Odor: Perfume*; Viscosity: 25+ / -7 ud (Rheomat 25°C); Microscopic examination: X100; Fine, slightly marbled emulsion with clean edges
[0150] (*) A floral, fresh and fruity type fragrance characterized by: - its top notes of bergamot, lily of the valley, green notes; - its heart notes of freesia, jasmine, and peony; and - its base notes of musk, cedar, amber.
[0151] [Tables3] A1 (invention) B1 (comparative) A2 (invention) B2 (comparative) A3 (invention) Visual observation at T0 25°C White color Beige color White color Beige color White color Visual observation at 2 months 45°C No color change Shows yellowing No color change Shows slight yellowing No color change
[0152] The appearance of the compositions was assessed visually at T0 25°C and after 2 months of storage at 45°C.
[0153] The compositions according to the invention Al, A2 and A3 remain white, without any change in color or odor, after storage for 2 months at 45°C, unlike the comparative compositions B1 and B2.
[0154] Composition B1 containing dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline and composition B2 not containing sequestrant exhibit yellowing (or yellow halo) after storage for 2 months at 45°C. Stability of tocopherol in compositions#:
[0155] The stability of tocopherol in compositions A2, B1, and B2 was studied by liquid chromatography with UV detection (ACQUITY_Waters_iClass instrument). The column used was an AQUITY UPLC-BEH Shield RP18 1.7 µm - 50 x 2.1 mm column (temperature 60°C). The eluent was a methanol 85 / water 15 mixture, and the flow rate was 1 µL / min. After quantification by external calibration of the standards in a methanol solution, 2 µL of the compositions in methanol solution were injected. The results obtained are presented in the table below:
[0156] [Tables4] Theoretical rate T=2M, 4°CT=2M, 45°C B1 (comparative) Tocopherol high 0.2505% 0.20% (-20%) 0.20% (-20%) low 0.21% (-0.16%) 0.23% (-8%) A2 (invention) Tocopherol high 0.2505% 0.24% (-4%) 0.23% (-8%) low 0.24% (-4%) 0.23% (-8%) B2 (comparative) Tocopherol high 0.2505% 0.21% (-16%) 0.20% (-20%) low 0.21% (-16%) 0.20% (-20%)
[0157] A degradation in the active concentration of less than or equal to 10% is considered stable. Thus, the tocopherol in composition A2 remains stable even after 2 months at 4°C and 45°C, unlike compositions B1 and B2.
[0158] Example 2 - Preparation of a composition according to the invention with a different sequestrant
[0159] [Tables5] | p4 pô (invention) (invention) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.25 0.25 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SH EA) BUTTER / BUTYROSPERMU M PARKII BUTTER 3.0 3.0 CITRIC ACID 0.001 0.001 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.4 0.4 ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH / Z EA MAYS STARCH 1.0 1.0 TOCOPHEROL 0.25 0.25 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.5 0.5 ACTIVE 0.2 0.2 PRESERVATIVE 0.25 0.25 GLYCERYL STEARATE 1.5 1.5 PEG-100 STEARATE 1.5 1.5 C14-22 ALCOHOLS 1.6 1.6 C12-20 ALKYL GLUCOSIDE 0.4 0.4 DISODIUM EDTA 0.2 - TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMIN E DISUCCINATE - 0.074 WATER QS100 QS100 GELING 1.86 1.86 SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE 0.1 0.1 GLYCERIN 4.34 4.34 LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM FL OWER / LEAF EXTRACT 0.04 0.04 FRAGRANCE 0.7 0.7 PROLINE 1.0 1.0 ACITF 0.04 0.04 PRESERVATIVE 0.2 0.2 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAET HYLHEXANOATE 1.0 1.0 SQUALANE 8.0 8.0 SODIUM HYDROXIDE QS pH 4.8 + / -0.3 QS pH 4.8 + / -0.3
[0160] Compositions A4 and A5 according to the invention are white in color and do not show any yellowing or change of odor after 2 weeks at 55°C.
Claims
1. Demands Composition, particularly cosmetic, comprising: (i) one or more amino compound(s) of formula (I), its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; Formula (I) in which: - Riddesignates an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably linear; and c) -C(O)-R6 - R2, R3, R4, whether identical or different, designate an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a hydroxyl group; c) an amine group; and d) a linear or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably linear; and R5 designates an atom or group chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) (C1-C4) linear or branched alkyl, preferably linear; in which R6 denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a linear (C1-C4) alkyl group; ii) one or more sequestering agent(s); iii) of tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or a mixture thereof; (iv) one or more fats; and (v) one or more (poly)phenolic antioxidant agents.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein Ri denotes a radical selected from a) a hydrogen atom and b) a linear (Cr C4) alkyl group, more preferably Ri represents a hydrogen atom.
3. . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein R2, R3, R4, identical or different, denote a radical selected from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a hydroxyl group, more preferably R2, R3 and R4 are identical and in particular represent a hydrogen atom.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which R5 denotes a hydrogen atom.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (I), its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, is selected from proline, its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates, hydroxyproline, its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, more preferably selected from proline, its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates, better still the compound of formula (I) is proline, preferably L-Proline.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of proline, its optical isomers, its acid and base salts, its solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof is greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from aminocarboxylic acids and their salts, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their salts, preferably selected from aminocarboxylic acids, more preferably, the sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, citric acid and its salts, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamic acid and its salts, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), metaphosphates (e.g., sodium metaphosphate), and mixtures thereof, best chosen from diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein, the total content of the sequestrant(s) is greater than or equal to 0.001 and less than or equal to 15% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.005 and less than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.01 and less than or equal to 8% by weight, still better greater than or equal to 0.05 and less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the tocopherol derivatives are selected from tocopherol esters and ethers, tocotrienols and their optical and geometric isomers, preferably C1-C24 esters and ethers, preferably C2-Ci8, more preferably selected from tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate, or tocopherol nicotinate or mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of (iii) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixtures thereof in the composition is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 7% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the fat(s) (iv) is / are selected from polar oils (1), non-polar oils (2), butters and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from non-volatile polar oils (1a), non-volatile non-polar oils (2a), butters and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from (1a) 2a) non-volatile non-polar oils, butters and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from shea butter oil, squalane, shea butter and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from squalane and shea butter.
12. Composition according to any one of the claims wherein the body (or bodies) is (or are) present in a total quantity from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better greater than or equal to 7% and less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polyphenolic antioxidant agent is derived from a plant, algae or fungus extract, more preferably the antioxidant agent is derived from a plant extract, better the (poly)phenolic antioxidant agent (v) is derived from a flower extract such as Edelweiss.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polyphenolic antioxidant agent is selected from leontopodic acid, one of its derivatives, its basic and acid salts and its optical and geometric isomers.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polyphenolic antioxidant agent is present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.0002% and less than or equal to 0.01 by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.0005% and less than or equal to 0.007% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.0007% and less than or equal to 0.005% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.001 and less than or equal to 0.
003.
16. A process for treating keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15.
17. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care of body and / or face skin.
Citation Information
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