Composition obtained by mixing at least one coloring composition comprising at least one fatty acid, at least one alkali and at least one oxidizing dye, and at least one oxidizing composition
A composition of fatty acids, alkali agents, and oxidation dyes with a specific oxidizing agent minimizes salt deposits, addressing unsatisfactory dyeing issues in hair dyeing due to water quality, achieving consistent and improved cosmetic performance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024007073
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-28
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dye compositions using oxidation bases and oxidizing agents are susceptible to unsatisfactory dyeing and cosmetic performance due to the formation of complexes and insoluble salts on keratin fibers, which are influenced by water quality conditions, particularly hardness and mineral content.
A composition comprising fatty acids, alkali agents, and oxidation dyes without resorcinol derivatives, combined with an oxidizing composition free of phosphoric acid and containing carboxylic acids, is used to minimize the deposition of complexes and insoluble salts, ensuring consistent dyeing and cosmetic performance.
The composition achieves improved dyeing and cosmetic performance by reducing salt deposits, resulting in more chromatic, homogeneous, and aesthetically pleasing hair colors with enhanced shine and texture.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition obtained by mixing at least one coloring composition comprising at least one fatty acid, at least one alkali and at least one oxidizing dye, and at least one oxidizing composition
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition obtained by mixing at least one colouring composition (Cl) comprising (i) at least one fatty acid, (ii) at least one alkali agent, and (iii) at least one oxidation colour, other than resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts, and at least one oxidizing composition (C2) as defined below.
[0002] The present invention also relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, in which the composition as described above is applied to said fibers.
[0003] The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0004] In the field of hair coloring, it is known to dye keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colors with dye compositions comprising one or more oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases such as ortho- or paraphenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones, or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when mixed with oxidizing agents, can give rise, through an oxidative condensation process, to colored compounds.
[0005] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with color couplers or modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows for a rich palette of colors.
[0006] At the time of use, the dye compositions are generally mixed with oxidizing compositions, comprising one or more oxidizing agents, and then applied to the keratin fibers. After a processing time, the keratin fibers are generally rinsed with water, then washed, once or several times, with shampoo, and possibly dried to achieve the desired color.
[0007] However, the implementation of such compositions can lead to a number of disadvantages, in particular to unsatisfactory dyeing and cosmetic performance which may be due to the quality of the water used during such a coloring process, in particular depending on its more or less significant lime content.
[0008] Indeed, during the implementation of oxidation coloring processes, the limescale present in the water can lead to the formation of complexes and / or insoluble salts that can be deposited on keratin fibers, thus impacting the desired dyeing and cosmetic performance. In particular, such processes can, on the one hand, lead to unsatisfactory coloring, notably by producing colors that lack chromaticity, with less aesthetic, less homogeneous, duller, and less glossy reflections.
[0009] In other words, oxidation coloring processes can result in unsatisfactory dyeing and cosmetic performance which can be degraded depending on water quality conditions, particularly its hardness, especially in compositions containing fatty acids and free from resorcinol and its derivatives.
[0010] In addition, the dyeing and cosmetic performance may vary depending on the water quality conditions, i.e. according to the geographical location of the consumer(s), when the same dyeing composition is used.
[0011] Thus, there is a real need to make available a composition for the coloring of keratin fibers without resorcinol and derivatives, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which does not have the disadvantages mentioned above, that is to say, which is capable of leading to improved dyeing and cosmetic performance regardless of water quality conditions, in particular its hardness, in particular its limestone or calcium ion content.
[0012] In particular, there is a real need to implement an oxidation coloring process capable of leading to satisfactory dyeing and cosmetic properties while minimizing the deposition of complexes and / or insoluble salts on keratin fibers.
[0013] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a composition obtained by mixing: - of at least one colouring composition (Cl) comprising:
[0014] (i) one or more fatty acids,
[0015] (ii) one or more alkali agents, and
[0016] (iii) one or more oxidation dyes, other than resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts, and - of at least one oxidizing composition (C2), free of phosphoric acid, comprising:
[0017] (iv) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, and
[0018] (v) one or more carboxylic acids different from the fatty acid(s) (i).
[0019] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to achieve the above objectives, in particular by leading to improved and consistent dyeing and cosmetic performance, that is to say, which depends as little as possible on the quality conditions of the water used, in particular its hardness, and more particularly its mineral salt content, and even more particularly its calcium ion content.
[0020] In other words, the composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to reduce the deposits of complexes and / or insoluble mineral salts on keratin fibers likely to impact their dyeing and cosmetic performance.
[0021] In other words, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the deposits of complexes and / or insoluble mineral salts, which may occur during the implementation of an oxidation coloring process, thus ensuring consistently the obtaining of good dyeing and cosmetic properties.
[0022] The composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to achieve more chromatic colours, presenting more aesthetic nuances of reflections, and more homogeneous.
[0023] The composition according to the invention also exhibits good performance properties, including a creamy texture and stability during application to keratin fibers.
[0024] The composition according to the invention is obtained quickly and easily by mixing the colouring composition (Cl) and the oxidizing composition (C2).
[0025] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to achieve improved cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of shine, smooth touch, natural touch, ease of detangling, improved alignment and visual appearance of the fibers.
[0026] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the shine of the keratin fibers while leading to improved dyeing performance with more chromatic colors, presenting more aesthetically pleasing and more homogeneous shades.
[0027] Thus the treated keratin fibers are less dull, brighter and have a more chromatic and more homogeneous coloration.
[0028] Even more advantageously, the composition according to the invention obtained by mixing with at least one oxidizing composition (C2), as defined above, comprising at least one carboxylic acid, results in improved dyeing and cosmetic performance, compared to a composition obtained by mixing an oxidizing composition including at least one phosphoric acid.
[0029] In accordance with the present invention, the composition according to the invention is obtained by mixing: - of at least one colouring composition (Cl), free from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts, comprising (i) one or more fatty acids, (ii) one or more alkali metals, and (iii) one or more oxidation dyes, - of at least one oxidizing composition (C2), free of phosphoric acid, comprising (iv) one or more chemical oxidizing agents and (v) one or more carboxylic acids different from the fatty acid(s) (i).
[0030] The present invention also relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the application to said fibers of at least one composition according to the invention.
[0031] In particular, the invention relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the implementation on said fibers, at least one composition obtained by mixing at least one composition (Cl) and at least one oxidizing composition (C2), as defined above.
[0032] The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0033] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0034] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0035] Similarly, the expression "at least" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "greater than or equal to". A. Composition obtained by mixing at least one coloring composition (Cl) and at least one oxidizing composition (C2)#
[0036] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention is obtained by mixing at least one colouring composition (Cl) and at least one oxidizing composition (C2).
[0037] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is prepared by a process comprising a mixing step of at least one colouring composition (Cl) and at least one oxidizing composition (C2).
[0038] Al. Coloring composition (Cl)
[0039] The colouring composition (Cl) comprises (i) one or more fatty acids, (ii) one or more alkali agents and (iii) one or more oxidation colour(s) different from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of their salts.
[0040] Fatty acid
[0041] The colouring composition (Cl) further comprises (i) one or more fatty acids.
[0042] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
[0043] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0044] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0045] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0046] More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of RC(O)OH structure in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in the composition (Cl) are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized.
[0048] Fatty acids can be chosen from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
[0049] For the purposes of this invention, "solid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point above 25°C, preferably above or equal to 28°C, more preferably above or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0050] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0051] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid.
[0052] For the purposes of this invention, "liquid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0053] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention can be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.
[0054] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention (Cl) are liquid fatty acids, in particular chosen from fatty acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group and an unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0055] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition (Cl) are liquid fatty acids, in particular chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures, more preferably oleic acid.
[0056] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition (Cl) are myristic, lauric, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, isocetyl, isostearyl, cetyl, stearylic acids, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.
[0057] Preferably, the fatty acid(s) are chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.
[0058] Advantageously, the fatty acid(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0059] In a particular embodiment, advantageously, the liquid fatty acid(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0060] Alkaline agent
[0061] The colouring composition (Cl) comprises one or more alkaline agents.
[0062] The alkali agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkali agents.
[0063] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agents" are used interchangeably.
[0064] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.
[0065] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
[0066] By alkanolamine, we mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in CrC8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0067] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.
[0068] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof.
[0069] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, and citrulline.
[0070] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among amino acids, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole can be cited. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Carnosine, anserine, and balenine are examples of amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds having a functional group Guanidine. Examples of amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.)
[0071] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as hybrid compounds.
[0072] The useful alkali agent(s) according to the invention is / are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ammonia and alkanolamines, better from alkanolamines, better still from monoethanolamine.
[0073] Preferably, the alkalizing agent(s) is or are organic.
[0074] In a particular embodiment, the composition (Cl) according to the invention is free of ammonia.
[0075] The total content of the alkali agent(s) is greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0076] Preferably, the total content of alkali agents is greater than or equal to 8% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0077] Preferably, the total content of alkali agents varies from 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 30% by weight, better from 8 to 20% by weight, even better from 10 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0078] In a preferred embodiment, the total content of the alkaline agent(s) chosen from among the alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine, is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably from 6 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 8 to 20% by weight, better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0079] According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition (Cl) is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9.0 and 12, better between 10 and 11.
[0080] The pH of the composition (Cl) can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in dyeing keratin fibers such as those described above, or by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
[0081] Oxidation dye
[0082] The colouring composition (Cl) further comprises (iii) one or more different oxidation colour(s) of resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of their salts.
[0083] Oxidation dyes can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.
[0084] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
[0085] Preferably, the composition according to the invention (Cl) comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0086] Oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0087] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention (Cl) are in particular selected from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0088] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0089] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0090] Among the paraphenylenediamines that can be mentioned, examples include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)- , para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[>-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0091] Among the aforementioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0092] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that can be mentioned, examples include N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of salts.
[0093] Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned, we find for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and addition salts, solvates and solvates of salts.
[0094] Among the ortho-aminophenols that can be mentioned, we find for example 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0095] Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned, we find for example the derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole.
[0096] Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0097] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in French patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-α]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-α]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-α]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-α]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-α]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-α]pyrid-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-α]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-α]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-α]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0098] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from among the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, possibly cationic, possibly substituted by one or more (Cl-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0099] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their salts of addition, the solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0100] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-Diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts. 4,5-diamino-l-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
[0101] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole shall preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated.
[0102] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-diliydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-, 6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one their salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0103] Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used.
[0104] Preferably, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used as heterocyclic bases.
[0105] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from among para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
[0106] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) is / are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5%, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (Cl).
[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition (Cl) comprises at least one oxidation base selected from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof, this (they) is (are) present in a total content of 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5%, even better 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0108] In a particular embodiment, the composition (Cl) is free of oxidation bases selected from paraphenylenediamine, paratoluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0109] The oxidation dye(s) can also be chosen from one or more couplers, which can be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for staining keratin fibers.
[0110] Preferably, the composition (Cl) according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
[0111] Among the useful couplers according to the invention, one can in particular mention metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, agents of naphthalene-based coupling and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0112] Examples include 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol,3-Aminophenol, 3-Amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.
[0113] Preferably the coupler(s) is or are chosen from: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof.
[0114] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0115] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched alcohol in the C4 to C5 groups such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0116] According to the present invention, the composition (Cl) is free of resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0117] When the composition includes one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 at 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0118] When present, the total content of the couplers selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0119] When present, the total content of the couplers selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0120] When present, the total content of the couplers selected from hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0121] When present, the total content of the couplers selected from 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0122] Preferably, the total content of oxidation dyes varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0123] The colouring composition (Cl) may optionally include further one or more polysaccharides and / or one or more polyols and / or one or more fatty alcohols.
[0124] Polysaccharide
[0125] The colouring composition (Cl) may further comprise one or more polysaccharides.
[0126] Preferably, the colouring composition (Cl) comprises one or more polysaccharides, more preferably chosen from anionic polysaccharides.
[0127] By "polysaccharides" we mean polymers which have at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferably the polysaccharides of the invention comprise between 20 and 100,000 monosaccharide units.
[0128] The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise any cationic or cationizable group.
[0129] The useful anionic polysaccharides according to the invention can be selected from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.
[0130] The anionic polysaccharides of the invention may be natural or synthetic.
[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition (Cl) according to the invention are selected from native gums such as: • tree or shrub exudates including: gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); ghatti gum (a polymer of arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); karaya gum (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); • gums derived from algae such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); • microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).
[0132] For the purposes of the present invention, "microbial gums" means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.
[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic gums, better, from anionic microbial gums, more preferably from xanthan gums.
[0134] The total polysaccharide content varies, preferably, from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, better from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl)
[0135] When present, the total content of anionic polysaccharides as defined above varies, preferably, from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0136] The total content of anionic microbial gums as defined above varies, when present, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0137] Fatty alcohols The composition (Cl) according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty alcohols.
[0138] By "fatty alcohol", for the purposes of the present invention, means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH.
[0139] For the purposes of the present invention, fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.
[0140] The fatty alcohols according to the invention can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0141] More preferably, the fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from compounds of structure R-OH with R designating a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0142] Fatty alcohols can be selected from liquid fatty alcohols, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.
[0143] For the purposes of this invention, "solid fatty alcohol" means a fatty alcohol having a melting point above 25 °C, preferably above or equal to 28 °C, more preferably above or equal to 30 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0144] Solid fatty alcohols can be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched solid fatty alcohols, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0145] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from compounds of structure R-OH with R designating a linear saturated alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0146] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures: - lauryl alcohol (or 1-dodecanol); - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol). Among the mixtures of solid fatty alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and / or mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol are preferred.
[0147] For the purposes of this invention, "liquid fatty alcohol" means a fatty alcohol having a melting point of less than or equal to 25 °C, preferably less than or equal to 20 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0148] The liquid fatty alcohols, which may be used according to the invention, are preferably chosen from compounds of structure R-OH with R designating a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated and / or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0149] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols are chosen from compounds of R-OH structure with R designating an alkyl group, unsaturated and / or branched, preferably unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 12 to 24, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0150] The liquid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in mixture, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyl-octanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic alcohol.
[0151] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols chosen are linoleic alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol and their mixtures, preferably oleic alcohol.
[0152] Preferably, the fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from fatty alcohols comprising 14 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, better from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0153] Preferably, the composition (Cl) further comprises one or more fatty alcohols.
[0154] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (Cl) according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols and one or more liquid fatty alcohols, preferably one or more solid fatty alcohols comprising 14 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms and one or more alcohols liquid fats comprising 14 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0155] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (Cl) according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and one or more liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0156] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition (Cl) according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols selected from compounds of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear saturated alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and one or more liquid fatty alcohols selected from compounds of structure R-OH with R denoting an alkyl group, unsaturated and / or branched, preferably unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0157] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol(s) are present in a total content ranging from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 25% by weight, and better from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0158] According to a particular embodiment, advantageously the solid fatty alcohol(s) are present in a total content of 1 to 35% by weight, preferably 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 8 to 25% by weight, and better 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0159] According to another particular embodiment, advantageously the liquid fatty alcohol(s) are present in a total content of 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably of 1 to 10% by weight, and better of 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0160] Polyol
[0161] The composition (Cl) according to the invention may further comprise one or more polyols.
[0162] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0163] Preferably, the polyols are different from fatty alcohols as defined above.
[0164] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, more preferably still from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
[0165] The polyol(s) are preferably selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerin, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof
[0166] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more polyols selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerin, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.
[0167] Preferably, the composition (Cl) comprises one or more polyols, more preferably chosen from propane-1,3-diol, glycerin and their mixture.
[0168] Even more preferably, the composition (Cl) comprises propane-1,3-diol.
[0169] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are present in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0170] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are present in a total content varying from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0171] Fatty substances other than fatty acids and fatty alcohols
[0172] The composition obtained according to the invention may further comprise one or more fats other than fatty acids and fatty alcohols.
[0173] The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0174] The fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0175] Preferably, the useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-siliconized.
[0176] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.
[0177] The fats used according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point of 25°C or lower at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0178] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0179] More particularly, the liquid fat or fats according to the invention can be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in the range of C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
[0180] It is recalled that fatty esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0181] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0182] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0183] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.
[0184] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0185] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.
[0186] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, one may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0187] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.
[0188] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0189] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.
[0190] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26-
[0191] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0192] The composition may also include, as a fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than those described above.
[0193] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.
[0194] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0195] Esters can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0196] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.
[0197] In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0198] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0199] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0200] According to one embodiment, the useful fats according to the invention are chosen from liquid fats, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, and liquid fatty esters and their mixtures, more preferably from vegetable oils.
[0201] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
[0202] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
[0203] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol esters.
[0204] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0205] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.
[0206] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, adipate dioctyl, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0207] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0208] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0209] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0210] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0211] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.
[0212] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0213] Also noteworthy are waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, isomerized jojoba oil, such as partially hydrogenated isomerized trans jojoba oil, particularly that manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba- 50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), including that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0214] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.
[0215] As a wax, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in C2O to C4O (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0216] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include carnauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;
[0217] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0218] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.
[0219] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R1 designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C30; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 designates a hydrocarbon group in C15-C26, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in Ci5-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.
[0220] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R2 designates a hydrogen atom and R3 designates a linear group saturated in C15.
[0221] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0222] Compounds may also be used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids in C[2-C22]; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a hydrocarbon radical in C[2-C22], saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0223] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.
[0224] Butters can also be used.
[0225] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.
[0226] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0227] We can mention in particular shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Eatifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.
[0228] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.
[0229] As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.
[0230] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the fat(s), other than fatty acids and fatty alcohols, varies from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, and better from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0231] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fats other than fatty acids and fatty alcohols, the total content of the solid fat(s) other than fatty acids and fatty alcohols varying preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, and better from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0232] In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats other than fatty acids and fatty alcohols, the total content of the liquid fat(s) other than fatty acids and fatty alcohols varying, preferably, from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, and better from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition Cl).
[0233] Advantageously, the coloring composition (Cl) comprises: (i) one or more fatty acids, (ii) one or more alkali agents, preferably selected from alkanolamines, and (iii) one or more oxidation dyes other than resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts, optionally one or more fatty alcohols as defined above,
[0234] optionally one or more polyols as defined above, preferably selected from the polyols selected from propane-1,3-diol, glycerin and mixtures thereof,
[0235] optionally, one or more polysaccharides as defined above.
[0236] In other words, the colouring composition (Cl) is free of resorcinol, 2- methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of their salts, and comprises:
[0237] (i) one or more fatty acids, (ii) one or more alkali agents, preferably selected from alkanolamines, and (iii) one or more oxidation dyes, optionally one or more fatty alcohols as defined above,
[0238] optionally one or more polyols as defined above, preferably selected from polyols selected from propane-1,3-diol, glycerin and mixtures thereof,
[0239] optionally, one or more polysaccharides as defined above.
[0240] Surfactants other than fatty acids
[0241] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more surfactants other than fatty acids, preferably non-ionic.
[0242] The non-ionic surfactant(s) usable in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.
[0243] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols; - alcohols in the C8 to C40 range, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, preferably include one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated; - esters of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of fatty acids in C8 to C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated; - fatty acid esters, especially C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated - fatty acid and sucrose esters, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucosides esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - the derivatives of A^-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A4acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine; - amine oxides.
[0244] They are chosen, in particular, from among alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C20)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0245] We can also mention ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0246] C8-C30 fatty acid esters, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, may comprise more than 10 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, in particular 15 to 200 motifs, better 15 to 100 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs).
[0247] C8 to C30 fatty acid esters, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, are preferably selected from 200-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; 30-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate such as the product TAGAT S® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, 30-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate such as the product TAGAT O® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, 30-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate such as the product VARIONIC L1 13® sold by SHEREX, 30-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate such as the product TAGAT L® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT and 30-oxyethylene polyoxyethylenated glyceryl laurate such as the product TAGAT I® from GOLDSCHMIDT.
[0248] Preferably, the esters of fatty acids in C16 to C22 and of oxyethylenated glycerol ethers.
[0249] Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan may be selected from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.
[0250] Polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably Ci2-Ci8) fatty acid and sorbitan esters (in particular mono-, di-, tri-esters) having, in particular, 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide may be selected from polyoxyethylenated Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid esters, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, and sorbitan esters having, in particular, 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), - the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-85).
[0251] Polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular mono, di, tri, tetra esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids (preferably Ci2-Ci8) and sorbitan, having in particular 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, may be selected from polyoxyethylenated esters having in particular 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: of Ci2-Ci8 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of sorbitan, such as: - the 20 EO polyoxyethylenated ester of sorbitan and cocoic acid (PEG-20 Sorbitan Cocoate) - polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having 2 to 20 EOs) of sorbitan and isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-5 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate (such as the product marketed under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the Nikkol company), - polyoxyethylenated esters (particularly those with 2 to 20 EOs) of sorbitan and lauric acid (such as PEG-10 Sorbitan Laurate), - polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 2 to 20 EOs) of sorbitan and oleic acid with 10 oxyethylenated groups (such as PEG-6 Sorbitan Oleate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate), - polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having 3 to 20 EOs) of sorbitan and stearic acid (such as PEG-3 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-4 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-6 Sorbitan Stearate).
[0252] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably selected from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, and mixtures thereof.
[0253] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, and mixtures thereof.
[0254] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are selected from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, such as coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.
[0255] Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition varies preferably from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.3 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0256] Advantageously, the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) selected from the (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, plus preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.3 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0257] A2. Oxidizing composition (C2)
[0258] As previously stated, the oxidizing composition (C2), free of phosphoric acid, comprises (iv) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, and (v) one or more carboxylic acids different from the fatty acid(s) (i).
[0259] In particular, the oxidizing composition (C2) is free of oxidation dye.
[0260] Chemical oxidizing agent
[0261] For the purposes of this invention, "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
[0262] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agent(s) usable in the present invention may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their possible cofactors) including peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.
[0263] More preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0264] Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are present in a total content of 0.1 to 50%, more preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (C2).
[0265] According to a preferred embodiment, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (C2).
[0266] Carboxylic acid different from fatty acids
[0267] Preferably, the carboxylic acid(s) correspond(s) to the following general formula (I) and / or one of its salts: [' O '] OH J HO' | O s~ J n
[0268] in which: - U represents a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1, a hydrocarbon comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or possibly substituted, in particular, by one or more hydroxy groups; preferably U represents a monovalent (Ci-C6)alkyl or polyvalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy and / or amino groups, - n represents an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, preferably n is between 0 and 5, such that between 0 and 2.
[0269] The carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) is or are preferably chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids.
[0270] Preferred examples of carboxylic acids of formula (I) include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid or one of their salts, preferably glycolic acid, citric acid or lactic acid or one of their salts, better lactic acid, citric acid and / or one of their salts.
[0271] Preferably, the carboxylic acid is citric acid.
[0272] Salts of acids of formula (I) may be salts of organic or mineral bases or of alkalizing agents as defined above.
[0273] The carboxylic acid(s) is or are present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (C2).
[0274] The oxidizing composition (C2) is preferably an aqueous composition.
[0275] In particular, the oxidizing composition (C2) comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
[0276] It may also include one or more organic solvents selected from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 0.1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight.
[0277] As stated previously, the oxidizing composition (C2) is free of phosphoric acid.
[0278] Preferably, the oxidizing composition (C2) may further comprise one or more acidifying agents other than the carboxylic acid(s) (iv), as defined above, such as hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid.
[0279] The oxidizing composition (C2) is preferably aqueous and preferably has a pH below 7, more preferably between 2 and 5, better between 3 and 4.5
[0280] Additives
[0281] The composition according to the invention, obtained by mixing at least the colouring composition (Cl) and at least the oxidizing composition (C2), may include one or more additives different from the compounds of the invention.
[0282] Among which we can mention cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, different from those mentioned above, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives.
[0283] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).
[0284] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition. Process
[0285] The present invention also relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the application to said fibers of at least one composition according to the invention.
[0286] In particular, the invention relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the implementation on said fibers of at least one composition obtained by mixing at least one composition (Cl) and at least one oxidizing composition (C2), as defined above.
[0287] In other words, the process according to the invention comprises at least one step of mixing the composition (Cl), as defined above with at least one oxidizing composition (C2), as defined above, and at least one step of applying the composition resulting from said mixture to said fibers.
[0288] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.
[0289] The pH of the mixture is generally from 8 to 12, preferably from 8.5 to 11 and better 9 to 10.5.
[0290] In other words, the composition according to the invention preferably has a pH ranging from 8 to 12, preferably from 8.5 to 11 and better 9 to 10.5.
[0291] The composition according to the invention can be implemented on dry or wet keratin fibers, as well as on all types of fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0292] According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the fibers are washed before application of the composition described above.
[0293] The application of the composition of the invention to the keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a paintbrush, by hand or by fingers.
[0294] The coloring process, i.e. the application of the coloring composition to the keratin fibers, is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0295] The composition according to the invention can be applied to keratin fibers for a setting time of 30 to 60 minutes.
[0296] After application of the composition according to the invention, the keratin fibers may optionally be washed with shampoo and / or rinsed with water. Use
[0297] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described above for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair. Device
[0298] The invention further relates to a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing at least composition (Cl), as defined above, and at least a second compartment containing at least composition (C2) as defined above.
[0299] The compositions (Cl) and (C2) of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.
[0300] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
[0301] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0302] Example 1
[0303] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).
[0304] Coloring compositions
[0305] Compositions A, B, C were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% ma):
[0306] [Tables 1] A Oleic alcohol 2.7 Cetearyl alcohol 16.3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.24 Xanthan gum 0.2 Glycerin 5 Propanediol 5 Oleic acid 2.7 Cetearyl glucoside 0.5 Ethanolamine 12.25 m-aminophenol 0.21 Toluene-2,5-diamine 0.64 Hydroxybenzomorpholine 0.38 Fragrance 0.5 N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate 0.04 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCl 0.03 Ascorbic acid 0.25 6-hydroxyindole 0.05 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine 0.01 Sodium metabisulfite 0.71 Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline HCl 0.11 Water Qs 100
[0307] [Tables2] BC GLYCERIN 0.5 0.5 Phosphoric acid 0.3 - Citric acid - 0.3 Tetrasodium etidronate 0.06 0.06 Trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA 0.82 0.82 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04 0.04 Cetearyl alcohol 2.28 2.28 Ceteareth-25 0.57 0.57 Sodium salicylate 0.035 0.035 Hydrogen peroxide 6 6 Water Qs 100 Qs 100
[0308] Colour composition A is mixed with oxidizing compositions (B) and (C) in a ratio of 1:1.5.
[0309] Each of the mixtures is applied to moderately sensitized hair strands (SA20), at a rate of 5g of mixture per 1g of hair.
[0310] After a setting time of 30 minutes at room temperature, the strands are rinsed with clear water, and finally, the strands are dried for 2 hours in an oven at 60°C.
[0311] The colorimetric measurements were carried out with a KONICA MINOLTA CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0312] Chromaticity is calculated according to the following formula#:#
[0313]
[0314] The higher the chromaticity value C*, the more the fiber color is chromatic. a* b* C* (chromaticity) A + C invention 3.01 3.84 4.88 A + Bcomparison 1.57 0.58 1.67
[0315] Mixing the colour composition (A) with the oxidizing composition (C) free of phosphoric acid, according to the invention, leads to a higher C* value, and therefore to better chromaticity, compared to mixing the colour composition (A) with the oxidizing composition (B) comprising phosphoric acid.
[0316] In addition, it is observed that the application of the composition resulting from the mixture between the colouring composition (A) and the oxidizing composition (C) improves the cosmetic properties of the hair, in particular its shine.
[0317] The composition obtained by mixing compositions (A) and (C) according to the invention made it possible to improve the chromaticity of the color and the cosmetic properties of the hair, in particular its shine.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition obtained by mixing: - at least one colouring composition (Cl) comprising (i) one or more fatty acids, (ii) one or more alkali agents, and (iii) one or more oxidation colourings other than resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of their salts; - at least one oxidizing composition (C2), free of phosphoric acid, comprising (iv) one or more chemical oxidizing agents and (v) one or more carboxylic acids other than the fatty acid(s) (i).
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the fatty acids (i) comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and one alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty acids (i) are liquid fatty acids, in particular selected from the group consisting of oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably oleic acid.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkali agents (ii) are selected from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ammonia and alkanolamines, better from alkanolamines, better still the alkali agent is monoethanolamine.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxidation dyes (iii) are selected from the oxidation bases, the couplers, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation bases are selected from the paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; more preferably among 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[>-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition (Cl) further comprises one or more polyols.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition (Cl) further comprises one or more polysaccharides, preferably one or more anionic polysaccharides.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colouring composition (Cl) further comprises one or more fatty alcohols.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agents (iv) are selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their possible cofactors), and mixtures thereof; preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carboxylic acids (v), different from the fatty acids (i), correspond to the following formula (I) and / or one of its salts: king ph ( V.....u......(u | HO | 0 in which: - U represents a monovalent group when n is 0 or polyvalent when n is greater than or equal to 1, hydrocarbon comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or oncyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxy groups; preferably U represents a monovalent (Ci-C6)alkyl or polyvalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy and / or amino groups, - n represents an integer inclusively between 0 and 10, preferably n is between 0 and 5, such that between 0 and 2; preferably the carboxylic acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid or one of their salts, preferably glycolic acid or lactic acid or one of their salts, preferably lactic acid, citric acid and / or one of their salts, preferably citric acid.
12. A method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying to said fibers a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11.
13. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
14. A multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition (Cl) as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 6 and at least a second compartment containing the composition (C2) as defined according to any one of claims 1, 10 and 11.
Citation Information
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