A hair coloring process comprising the application of hydrogen peroxide, followed by the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a specific polymer, and a coloring agent.
The hair coloring process using hydrogen peroxide, (poly)carbodiimide compounds, and polymers with reactive carboxylic acid groups addresses the need for a durable, resistant color coating that maintains hair integrity and appearance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024006949
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring methods fail to provide a homogeneous, long-lasting color coating that resists shampooing and external aggressions like brushing and perspiration without damaging the hair.
A hair coloring process involving the application of hydrogen peroxide followed by a composition containing a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a polymer with reactive carboxylic acid groups, along with a coloring agent, to form a durable and vibrant color coating.
The process results in a visible color that persists after shampooing and withstands external aggressions, maintaining hair quality and providing a homogeneous application.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: A hair coloring process comprising the application of hydrogen peroxide, followed by the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a specific polymer, and a coloring agent.
[0001] The present invention relates to a hair coloring process comprising the application to the hair of a composition T comprising hydrogen peroxide, followed by the application of a composition C comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, and a coloring agent. technical field
[0002] In the field of hair keratin fiber coloring, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or from dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0003] There are essentially three types of hair coloring processes:
[0004] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0005] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not implement the oxidative condensation process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing the keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
[0006] c) Temporary hair coloring that results in a change to the natural hair color that lasts from one shampoo to the next and serves to enhance or correct a previously achieved shade. It can also be considered a "makeup" process.
[0007] Another coloring method involves using pigments. Indeed, applying pigment to the surface of keratin fibers generally produces visible colors on dark hair, since the surface pigment masks the fiber's natural color. However, the colors obtained using this method have the disadvantage of being poorly resistant to shampoos and external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing, and / or friction.
[0008] There therefore remains a need for a hair coloring process which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous colored coating on the hair, while by forming a coating that resists shampoos and various aggressions that hair can undergo, such as brushing and / or rubbing, without degrading the cosmetic properties of the hair.
[0009] Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a hair coloring process which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and to the various aggressions that hair can undergo such as brushing and / or rubbing without damaging the hair. Description of the invention
[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a hair coloring process comprising:
[0011] a) the application to the hair of at least one composition T comprising at least hydrogen peroxide; then
[0012] b) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:
[0013] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound;
[0014] - at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids; and
[0015] - at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and their mixtures.
[0016] Thanks to the hair coloring process according to the invention, colored coatings are applied to the hair, resulting in a visible color that remains vibrant even after shampooing on all hair types, while preserving the hair's physical qualities. Such a coating can be resistant to external aggressors such as blow-drying and perspiration. In particular, it allows for a homogeneous application.
[0017] By "residual shampoo colour" in the context of the present invention, the colour obtained persists after one shampoo, preferably after 5 shampoos.
[0018] The expression "at least one" means one or more.
[0019] Unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0020] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0021] For the purposes of the present invention and, unless otherwise indicated,
[0022] - an "alkyl" radical designates a saturated linear or branched radical containing by example of 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
[0023] - an "aminoalkyl" radical means an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group;
[0024] - a "hydroxyalkyl" radical means an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;
[0025] - an "alkylene" radical designates a divalent saturated hydrocarbon group at C2-C4, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;
[0026] - a "cycloalkyl" or "alicycloalkyl" radical designates a hydrocarbon group saturated cyclic mono- or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, or a cyclohexyl. It being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isoboromyl group.
[0027] - a "cycloalkylene" radical designates a divalent cycloalkyl group with " cycloalkyl” as defined above, preferably in C3-Ci2;
[0028] - an "aryl" radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (CrC4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl;
[0029] - an "arylene" radical is a divalent aryl radical with "aryl" as defined previously preferred arylene represents phenylene;
[0030] - a "heterocyclic" radical designates a mono or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, comprising one or more heteroatoms preferably of 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 links preferably between 5 and 10 links such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;
[0031] - a "heterocycloalkylene" radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with "heterocyclic" as defined above;
[0032] - an "aryloxy" radical designates an aryl-oxy radical with "aryl" as defined previously;
[0033] - an "alkoxy" radical designates an alkyl-oxy radical with "alkyl" as defined previously;
[0034] - an "acyloxy" radical designates an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as defined previously;
[0035] - a "reactive" group is a group capable of forming a bond covalent with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction.
[0036] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in this application, this also includes their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixtures.
[0037] By "capillary keratin fibers" is meant hair. In other words, the expressions "capillary keratin fibers" and "hair" are equivalent in the remainder of the description.
[0038] For the purposes of the present invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Composition T
[0039] As indicated above, the process according to the invention comprises a) the application to the hair of at least one composition T comprising at least hydrogen peroxide.
[0040] Advantageously, the total quantity of hydrogen peroxide ranges from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, better from 2 to 10% by weight, better still from 3 to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of composition T.
[0041] Composition T may further comprise water, preferably in an amount of at least 50% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably from 60 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of composition T. Polycarbodiimide compound
[0042] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound.
[0043] The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present in mixture in the composition.
[0044] The term "(poly)carbodiimide compound" means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide group(s), preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups; in particular, the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.
[0045] The term “carbodiimide group” means a divalent linear triatomic fraction of general formula - (N=C=N)
[0046] The (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups other than carbodiimide groups, selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0047] The reactive group(s) other than the carbodiimide groups may be pendant or terminal. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise one or more terminal groups other than carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more terminal groups selected from the following: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): OO 1 ril Ri .XL —A——A4—N'" ''Xo— H l KH '
[0049] in which:
[0050] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0051] - Ri and R2 independently represent a grouping chosen from a radical a hydrocarbon, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and by one or more groups selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane;
[0052] - n denotes an integer from 1 to 1000; and
[0053] - A is a monomer selected from the compounds below:
[0054] According to another embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (!'): (D
[0055] in which:
[0056] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0057] - Yiet Y2 represent, independently, a divalent organic radical chosen from a saturated aliphatic group in C36 at Ci or an aromatic or alkylaromatic group in C6 to C24, the aliphatic or aromatic group optionally comprising one or more non-pending heteroatoms, such as nitrogen atom, oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or combinations thereof;
[0058] - Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group or a group inert terminal;
[0059] - as an inert terminal group, Zi and Z2 can represent, independently, a saturated aliphatic group, linear or branched or cyclic, in the range of C1 to C50, or an aromatic group in the range of C6 to C18, said aliphatic and aromatic groups optionally comprising from 1 to 10 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and their combinations, and the aliphatic or aromatic group may be partially or totally fluorinated; in this variant, Zi and Z2 comprise a CG linking group connecting Zi to Yi and Z2 to Y2, the CG group being a single covalent bond, a saturated C-C bond, an unsaturated covalent C-C bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group;
[0060] - as a reactive terminal group, Zi and Z2 can be chosen from the alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide groups such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane;
[0061] - Q represents an organopolymer or an organo-oligomer comprising units repetitive saturated aliphatic groups, linear or branched or cyclic, or aromatic groups or alkylaromatic groups, coupled by repetitive carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea bonds or their combinations;
[0062] - A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or linear, saturated, branched or cyclic having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally including one or more non-pending heteroatoms, such as nitrogen atom, oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or combinations thereof, in the aliphatic chain or aromatic chain;
[0063] - r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0064] - m denotes an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0065] - m' designates an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0066] - n denotes an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1, with m+ (m'*n ) > 2.
[0067] Preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group, more preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a group selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalk ylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane.
[0068] Such (poly)carbodiimide compounds are marketed for example by the company Stahl BV, under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLinklO., under the name Picassian XL and Nisshinbo compounds marketed under the name CARBODILITE with the series V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW-12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V-05.
[0069] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II): $ % (II), A. y— ■<. \ A
[0070] in which:
[0071] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0072] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0073] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes a integer ranging from 1 to 3;
[0074] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in Cr Ci8, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
[0075] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0076] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-,
[0077] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0078] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0079] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0080] The term “hydrocarbon radical” means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.
[0081] The hydrocarbon radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.
[0082] The hydrocarbon radical can be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and / or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or cationic group(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic group(s), and / or comprising a metal ion which can be incorporated in the form of a salt.
[0083] The term "heteroatom(s)" means an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or a nitrogen atom N, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from among the oxygen atoms O, sulfur atoms S or nitrogen atoms N.
[0084] Preferably, Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.
[0085] Preferably, Ri and R2 are chosen independently from dialkylaminoalcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] According to a preferred embodiment, Ri and R2 are chosen independently from the following groupings (i) to (iv):
[0087] (i) the compound of the following formula (III):
[0088] R7-OC(O)-C(R8)(H)-(III),
[0089] wherein R7 represents a C1-C3 alkyl group, and R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably R7 is a methyl and R8 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0090] (ii) the compound of the following formula (IV):
[0091] R9-[O-CH2-C(H)(R10)]p- (IV),
[0092] wherein R9 represents a CrC4 alkyl group, Rio represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group and p denotes an integer from 1 to 3; preferably, R9 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and Rio is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0093] (iii) the compound of the following formula (V):
[0094] (Rh)2N-CH2-C(H)(Ri2)- (V),
[0095] wherein Rn represents an alkyl group in CrC4 and R[2 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in Ci-C4; preferably Ru is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[2 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0096] (iv) the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0097] Ri3-[O-CH2-C(H)(Ri4)]q- (VI),
[0098] wherein Rn represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; preferably Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0099] Preferably, Ri and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0100] According to an alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are different and one of the radicals Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.
[0101] Preferably, in formula (IV), R9 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0102] Preferably, in formula (VI), Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0103] According to another alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0104] Preferably, n denotes an integer from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0105] Preferably, z denotes an integer from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0106] Preferably, w is equal to 1.
[0107] Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer from 4 to 10.
[0108] Preferably, Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in Ci -Ci8 such as methylene, ethylene, and propylene, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene, and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] For example, Li can be selected from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethyl ylene diisocyanate, 1,12-diisocyanate dodecane, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.
[0110] Preferably, Li is selected from a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of the following formula (VII):
[0111] Preferably, L1 is the 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the following formula (VIII): (VIII).
[0112] According to another embodiment, when L1 is a C6-Ci4 arylene group, Li is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX): (IX).
[0113] As stated previously, E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0114] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0115] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0116] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); and
[0117] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0118] Preferably, R3 and IC are chosen independently from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof.
[0119] More preferably, R3 and IC are chosen independently from a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0120] Preferably, when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0121] Preferably, R6 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-C[2] cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0122] Preferably, E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a radical
[0123]
[0124]
[0125]
[0126]
[0127]
[0128]
[0129]
[0130]
[0131]
[0132] linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof. More preferably, E represents a group- -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of the following formula (X): (X), in which R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and, n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 100. In this embodiment, the term "alkyl group" is as defined previously. In this embodiment, the term "cycloalkyl group" is as defined previously. In this embodiment, n can denote an integer from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10. According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XI): (XI), CH----- in which R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. The "alkyl group", the "cycloalkyl group" and the "aryl group" are as defined previously.
[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is selected from compounds of formula (I) or formula (II) in which:
[0134] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0135] - Ri and R2 are chosen independently from among the dialkylaminoalcohols, the alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferably the compound of formula (VI) as previously described in which R13 represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0136] - n and z, when present, denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n +z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0137] - Li, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof, preferably a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5;
[0138] - A, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof, preferably a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5;
[0139] - E, when present, independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0140] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0141] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0142] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5, when present, is chosen including a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0143] - R6, when present, is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in CrCi8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0144] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0145] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0146] - Ri and R2 are chosen independently from among the dialkylaminoalcohols, the alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
[0147] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0148] - Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical at C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group at C3-Ci2, or an arylene group at C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof;
[0149] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0150] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0151] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0152] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0153] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0154] More preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0155] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0156] - Ri and R2, are independently of (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;
[0157] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0158] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical;
[0159] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0160] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0161] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0162] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0163] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0164] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0165] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0166] - Ri and R2, independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0167] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0168] wherein R13 represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0169] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0170] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, the cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0171] - E represents a grouping -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a radical arylene in C6-Ci4, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0172] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodihnide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0173] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0174] - Ri and R2, independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0175] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI)
[0176] wherein R13 represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0177] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0178] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, the cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0179] - E represents a group- -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a radical linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0180] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XII):
[0181] in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 represents a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer from 4 to 30.
[0182] Advantageously, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as defined above are present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0183] Polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids
[0184] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer.
[0185] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) are in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles, more preferably in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
[0186] Thus, preferably, composition C comprises at least one acrylic polymer in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles.
[0187] The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. Latexes are a particular example of a dispersion.
[0188] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound consisting of the repetition of one or more motifs (these motifs being derived from compounds called monomers). This motif or these motifs are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.
[0189] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a substrate, in particular on hair, and preferably a cohesive film
[0190] For the purposes of this invention, "acrylic polymer" means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer selected from (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide.
[0191] The motif(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may (may) possibly be in the form of salt(s), in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base.
[0192] Esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates) are advantageously chosen from among alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular alkyl acrylates in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, better in C1 to Cm, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular aryl acrylates in C6 to C10, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular hydroxyalkyl acrylates in C2 to C6.
[0193] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl-2 hexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.
[0194] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0195] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, we can mention benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
[0196] Particularly preferred esters of (meth)acrylic acid are the Alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably alkyl in C1 to C30, more preferably in C1 to C20, even better in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0197] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
[0198] Examples of (meth)acrylic acid amides include (meth)acrylamides, as well as N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, particularly alkyl in C2 to C12. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, examples include N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
[0199] The acrylic polymer according to the invention can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, even better a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (meth)acrylic acid esters.
[0200] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more motifs derived from the following monomers:
[0201] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0202] b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C30 Ci, more preferably in C20 Ci, even better in Cm Ci, and even more particularly in C4 Ci.
[0203] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not comprise a surfactant. The term "surfactant" means any agent capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces.
[0204] Among the acrylic polymers according to the invention, we can mention the copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name LUVIMER MAE by BASF, or the Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer compound sold under the trade name FIXATE SUPERHOLD POLYMER by LUBRIZOL, or the Acrylate Copolymer compound sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000VP3 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO, or the Acrylate Copolymer compound sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO.
[0205] The acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomers.
[0206] As an additional monomer, examples include styrenic monomers, in particular styrene and alpha-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.
[0207] In particular, the acrylic polymer may be a styrene / (meth)acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer selected from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer in C1 to C20, preferably in C1 to C10.
[0208] The alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer in C1 to C10 can be selected from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate.
[0209] As an acrylic polymer, we can cite the styrene / (meth)acrylate(s) copolymers marketed under the name JONCRYL 77 by BASF, under the name YODOSOL GH41F by AKZO NOBEL and under the name SYNTRAN 5760 CG by INTERPOLYMER.
[0210] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles. More preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more motifs derived from the following monomers:
[0211] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0212] b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, more preferably in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0213] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has an acrylic polymer(s) (or active material, or dry matter) content on the basis of the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 22 to 55% by weight and even better of 25 to 50% by weight.
[0214] Advantageously, the total content of the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0215] Advantageously, the total content of the acrylic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0216] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particle(s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, even better from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Coloring agent
[0217] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one colouring agent selected from pigments, direct colourings, and mixtures thereof.
[0218] Preferably, composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.
[0219] The term "pigment" means all pigments that impart color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
[0220] The pigments that can be used are in particular chosen from among the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0221] They may be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0222] These pigments may be in the form of a powder or pigment paste. They may be coated or uncoated.
[0223] Pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0224] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide.
[0225] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment.
[0226] The organic pigment may in particular be selected from the following compounds: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0227] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0228] By way of example, one can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
[0229] - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);
[0230] - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);
[0231] - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);
[0232] - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);
[0233] - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);
[0234] - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);
[0235] - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);
[0236] - COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);
[0237] - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0238] The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.
[0239] The organic pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean colorants adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0240] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0241] Among the colorants, we can mention carminic acid. We can also mention the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0242] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0243] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment. Special effects pigments are defined as pigments that generally create a non-uniform and changing colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy, and clarity) depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinct from colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or conventionally transparent tint.
[0244] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.
[0245] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica with iron oxides, iron oxide-coated mica, titanium-coated mica, particularly with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium-coated mica with an organic pigment as defined above, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. Examples of pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3), and Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0246] We can also mention gold-colored mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver; and orange-pink and golden-green mother-of-pearl, among others; marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer (Xirona) and their blends.
[0247] As further examples of nacres, we can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0248] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0249] Finally, examples of mother-of-pearl include polyethylene terephthalate flakes, particularly those marketed by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum can also be considered.
[0250] Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0251] In one embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent selected from silicone compounds. In another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
[0252] Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from iron oxides, in particular red, brown, or black. An example of an iron oxide is the iron oxide sold by Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide.
[0253] Direct dye
[0254] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may include one or more direct dye(s).
[0255] By "direct dye," we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic, for example cationic or anionic, or non-ionic.
[0256] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
[0257] Direct dyes can be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkaline substances. Anionic direct dyes are understood to mean any direct dye containing in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R denotes a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic dyes may be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, and acidic natural dyes.
[0258] A titre d’exemple de colorants acides on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;
[0259] A titre d’exemple de colorants azo anioniques pyrazolones on peut citer : Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76Acid Yellow 17 ;
[0260] As an example of anthraquinone dyes, we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2;: Acid Black 48;
[0261] Examples of nitro dyes include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of dyes of formula (XXII') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethanesulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0262] Examples of triarylmethane dyes include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0263] Examples of xanthenic dyes include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9.
[0264] Examples of indole dyes include: Acid Blue 74;
[0265] Examples of quinoline dyes include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0266] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, Purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins can be used. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes can also be used, particularly poultices or extracts based on henna.
[0267] The colouring agent(s) may be present in a total quantity from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably the colouring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
[0268] The pigment(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0269] The direct colorant(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Associative polymers
[0270] The composition C used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one associative polymer different from the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above.
[0271] As mentioned above, "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0272] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0273] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or hydrocarbon chain polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0274] The associative polymers may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric. Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.
[0275] Among the associative anionic polymers, we can cite copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0276] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol.
[0277] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by ROHM and HAAS.
[0278] Preferably, the associative polymer(s), other than polymers comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids previously described, are selected from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0279] Advantageously, the total content of the associative polymer(s) other than the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above shall be from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Organic solvents
[0280] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0281] Examples of organic solvents include lower C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols, in particular aromatic monoalcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0282] Organic solvents may be present in a total content of between 10 and 80% by weight, preferably between 25 and 70% by weight and more preferably between 35 and 65% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0283] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may be aqueous. The water content may range from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Additives
[0284] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0285] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition are reducing agents, softeners, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than those previously described, preservatives, amino and / or non-amino silicones, oils, waxes other than silicones in wax form, and mixtures thereof.
[0286] The composition C used in the process according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / O or polyol / O / O or O / W / O), in the form of a cream, foam, stick, vesicle dispersion in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, bi-phase or multi-phase lotion.
[0287] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate pharmaceutical form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of their general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition.
[0288] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C. Application of composition D
[0289] The hair coloring process according to the invention may further include the application to the hair of a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent.
[0290] Preferably, the acidifying agent is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.
[0291] Advantageously, composition D has a pH ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 1.5 to 5, more preferably from 2 to 4.
[0292] According to a preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair after the application of composition C to the hair.
[0293] According to yet another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair before the application of composition C to the hair.
[0294] According to a particularly preferred method, composition D is applied to the hair after the application of composition C to the hair. Process
[0295] The application to hair of composition T comprising at least hydrogen peroxide as defined above can be carried out on dry or wet hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0296] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hair is rinsed with water or washed after treatment with a composition T comprising at least hydrogen peroxide as defined above.
[0297] Preferably, a washing or rinsing, spinning or drying step is carried out after treatment with a composition T comprising at least hydrogen peroxide as defined above.
[0298] More preferably, a drying step is implemented after treatment with said composition T.
[0299] Treatment with said composition T can be carried out between 15 and 40°C.
[0300] After the application of composition T comprising at least peroxide of hydrogen as defined above, one can wait between 1 minute and 12 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 10 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 7 hours, more preferably between 1 minute and 6 hours, before applying composition C to the hair.
[0301] Preferably, the time between rinsing off composition T and applying composition C is between 1 minute and 5 hours.
[0302] Composition C and optional composition D described above can be used on dry or wet hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0303] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair is rinsed after application of composition T and before application of composition C and composition D.
[0304] Preferably, a rinsing, wringing and / or drying step is implemented after the application of composition C and before the application of any composition D to the hair.
[0305] More preferably, a drying step is implemented after the application of composition C to the hair and before the application of any composition D to the hair.
[0306] Application to the hair can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge or the fingers.
[0307] The application of composition C and optional composition D to the hair is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0308] After application of composition C to the hair, one can wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before for example the application of composition D to the hair or for example a drying step.
[0309] Preferably, there is no waiting time after the application of composition C to the hair and before the application of any composition D to the hair.
[0310] After the application of composition C and optional composition D, the hair may be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature of 30 °C or higher.
[0311] The process according to the invention can thus include a step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool.
[0312] The heat application step of the process of the invention can be carried out using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon, etc. Preferably, the heat application step of the process of the invention is carried out using a hair dryer.
[0313] When the process of the invention implements a step of applying heat to the hair, the step of applying heat to the hair takes place after the application of composition C and optional composition D to the hair.
[0314] During the heat application step on the hair, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing with fingers.
[0315] When the step of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.
[0316] Preferably, if the hair is dried, it is dried not only with heat but also with an airflow. This airflow during drying helps to improve the individualization of the coating.
[0317] Preferably, the invention is a hair coloring process comprising the following steps: (i) the application to the hair of at least one composition T comprising at least hydrogen peroxide as defined above; then (ii) a step of washing, rinsing or wringing said hair; then
[0318] (iii) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:
[0319] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described above;
[0320] - at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids; and
[0321] - at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and their mixtures; then (iv) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing or drying the hair;
[0322] (v) optionally the application to the hair of at least one composition D including at least one acidifying agent as described above; then (vi) optionally, a processing time of said composition D on the hair of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes; then (vii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying the hair.
[0323] Preferably, composition C further comprises at least one associative polymer as described above, different from the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids as defined above.
[0324] Advantageously, in the coloring process according to the invention, step b) consists of extemporaneously mixing at least two compositions A and B at the time of use to obtain a hair coloring composition C and applying composition C to the hair, with:
[0325] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such as defined previously;
[0326] - composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from among the carboxylic acids as defined previously,
[0327] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one colouring agent as defined above.
[0328] More preferably, in the coloring process according to the invention, step b) consists of mixing at least two compositions A and B extemporaneously at the time of use to obtain a hair coloring composition C and applying the hair coloring composition C to the hair, with:
[0329] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such as defined previously;
[0330] - composition B comprising at least one coloring agent as defined previously, and at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined previously.
[0331] According to a preferred embodiment, the coloring process according to the invention is a hair coloring process comprising:
[0332] (i) the application to the hair of at least one composition T comprising at hydrogen peroxide as defined previously, then
[0333] (ii) a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying the hair; then
[0334] (iii) a step consisting of extemporaneously mixing at least two compositions A and B at the time of use to obtain a composition C and applying composition C to the hair, with:
[0335] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such as defined previously;
[0336] - composition B comprising at least one coloring agent as defined previously and at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined previously; then
[0337] (iv) optionally, a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying said hair; then
[0338] (v) the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at minus an acidifying agent as described previously; then (vi) optionally, a processing time of said composition D on the hair of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes; then (vii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying the hair.
[0339] Preferably, the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids is selected from acrylic polymers.
[0340] Preferably, composition A does not comprise a coloring agent as defined above.
[0341] According to this embodiment, compositions A and B are mixed preferably less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, better less than 5 minutes before application.
[0342] The weight ratio between composition A and composition B is preferably from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, better from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.
[0343] The total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0344] The total quantity of the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids is preferably from 0.2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, better still from 1 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0345] According to a particular embodiment, composition B comprises at least one associative polymer as defined above. The total content of the associative polymer(s) preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B. Multi-compartment device (kit)
[0346] The present invention also relates to a hair coloring device comprising several compartments containing:
[0347] * in a first compartment, a composition T comprising at least of hydrogen peroxide as defined previously,
[0348] * in a second compartment, a composition A comprising at least one (Poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above
[0349] * in a third compartment, a composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above,
[0350] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one colouring agent as defined above;
[0351] * optionally in a fourth compartment, a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as defined previously.
[0352] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples allow for the support of specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0353] The (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible by synthetic methods known to those skilled in the art, from commercial products or from reagents synthesizable according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. Examples include the book *Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations*, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or US patent 4,284,730 or Canadian application CA 2,509,861.
[0354] More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses in a first step a diisocyanate reagent (1): O=C=N-LrN=C=O (1), formula (1) in which Li is as defined above, which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4,284,730, in particular phosphorus catalysts particularly chosen from among phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza and oxazaphospholanes, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a polar solvent, preferably aprotic, such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between ambient temperature and solvent reflux, preferably around 140 °C; to lead to the carbodiimide diisocyanate compound (3): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)nN=C=O (3), formula (3) in which Li and n are as defined previously. Benzoyl halogen such as benzoyl chloride may be added to deactivate the catalyst.
[0355] To obtain "symmetrical" (poly)carbodiimides, in the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH, then with 0.5 eq of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined previously, to give the "symmetrical" compound according to the invention (4): [R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)]2-E (4), formula (4) in which Rh Xb n, and E are as defined previously. According to one variant to obtain compound (4) from (3) it is possible to first add 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent, then 1 eq. of Ri-XrH reagent.
[0356] To obtain "dissymmetric" (poly)carbodiimides, in the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent RrXi-H and then 1 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined above, to give the compound (5): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EH (5), formula (5) in which Rh Xb Lb n, and E are as defined above.
[0357] According to one variant for obtaining compound (5) from (3) it is possible to add first 1 eq. of reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of reagent HEH.
[0358] In a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6) R2-X2-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3' ): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)ZN=C=O (3'),
[0359] formula (3') in which Li and z are as defined previously which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H with Lb R2, X2, and z as defined previously, to give rise to the asymmetric compound (7): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z-NH-C(O)-X2-R2 (7),
[0360] Formula (7) in which Rb Xb Lb R2, X2, n, z and E are such as defined previously.
[0361] It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=N-Lr (N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3') with 1 / w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H to give compound (8): H-CE-QOj-NH-LrtN^N-LÛX-NH-QOj-Xz-RaS),
[0362] formula (8) in which Lb R2, X2, z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer from 1 to 3, more preferably w = 1.
[0363] This latter compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'): Ri-Xi-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)nN=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') being able to be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to give rise to the (poly)carbodiimide of the invention (9): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH C(O)-X2-R2 (9), formula (9) in which Lb Rb Xb R2, X2, n, z, w, and E are as defined above.
[0364] (Poly)carbodiimide compounds, as well as all reaction intermediates and reactants, can be purified with conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and / or chromatography.
[0365] Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the (poly)carbodiimide compound
[0366] In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-l-phenyl-lH-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced under stirring.
[0367] The reaction medium was heated to 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, following the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm1, then cooled to 120°C.
[0368] A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium while stirring. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the complete disappearance of the isocyanate groups, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm1, and then cooled to room temperature.
[0369] After cooling to room temperature, the reaction mixture is poured dropwise under vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85g of distilled water to produce the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid. Example 2
[0370] The compositions T1 and T2 as described in Tables 1 and 2 below were prepared: quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g, unless otherwise stated. Thus, quantities can be expressed in g of active substance (ma) / 100g.
[0371] [Tables 1] Composition T1 T2 Surfactants 3.7 5.0 Fatty alcohol - 6 Liquid paraffin - 15% Polyquaterium-6 - 0.5% Hydrogen peroxide 9% 3% Water, pH modifier, preservative, q.s. 100%
[0372] Compositions A and B as described in Tables 2 and 3 below were also prepared: quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g, unless otherwise stated.
[0373] [Tables2] Composition A Polycarbodiimide (1) 17.5 Ethanol Qsp 100
[0374] (1) synthesized according to the synthesis process described in Example 1 (at 40% of matter active in water).
[0375] [Tables3] Composition B Acrylates copolymer (2) 29.2 Red iron oxide 12 Divinyldimethicone / Dimethicone copolymer (3) (and) Ci2-n Pareth-3 (and) Ci2-n Pareth-23 10.2 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 8.8 Acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (4) 2.2 Ethanol 5 Pentylene glycol 1.9 Preservative(s) qs Water qsp 100
[0376] (2) sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient);
[0377] (3) sold by Dow Corning under the trade name DOW CORNING HMW 2220 NON-IONIC EMULSION (Divinyldimethicone / dimethicone block copolymer in aqueous emulsion) (with 60% active material));
[0378] (4) sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the trade name ACULYN 22® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer with 30% active material).
[0379] Composition A was then mixed with composition B at a mass ratio of 50 / 50 to obtain composition C according to the invention.
[0380] Then, composition D as described in Table 4 below was prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0381] [Tables4] Composition D: Citric acid qs pH 2.5, Water qsp 100 Protocols
[0382] Three application methods were used.
[0383] According to the first and second processes, compositions T1, for the first process, or T2, for the second process, were first applied with a wooden spatula to the entire length of strands of dry, natural, 90% white hair, at a rate of 5 g of composition per gram of strand. The hair strands were then left to air dry for 10 to 20 minutes. Afterward, the hair strands were rinsed with water before being dried with a hairdryer.
[0384] Composition C was then applied to the strands previously treated with composition T1 or composition T2, at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of strand. The hair strands were then detangled and dried with a hairdryer.
[0385] Then, composition D was applied to the hair strands previously treated with composition T1 or composition T2, and composition C, at a rate of 0.5 g of composition per gram of strand. Then, the hair strands were detangled and dried with a hairdryer.
[0386] The first and second processes are therefore processes according to the invention. In the following, they are referred to as processes PI and P2, respectively.
[0387] According to the third method, neither composition T1 nor composition T2 was applied. Only compositions C and D were applied to strands of dry, natural, 90% white hair. Specifically, composition C was applied at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of strand. The hair strands were then combed and blow-dried. Next, composition D was applied to the hair strands previously treated with composition C, at a rate of 0.5 g of composition per gram of strand. Then, the hair strands were combed and blow-dried.
[0388] This process is therefore a comparative process, referred to hereafter as process P3.
[0389] The processes applied are summarized in Table 5 below:
[0390] [Tables5] PI (invention) P2 (invention) P3 (comparative) processes Application of the compositions T1 + C + D T2 + C + DC + D
[0391] The different strands of hair treated by the PI to P3 processes were then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the color obtained with the shampoos, according to the shampoo protocol described below. Shampoo Protocol#:
[0392] The colored hair strands are combed, moistened under water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times for 5 seconds. The hair strands are then squeezed dry between two fingers.
[0393] A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) is applied evenly to the colored strands at a rate of 0.4g of standard shampoo per gram of strands, gently massaging the strands of hair along their length (6 passes) for 15 seconds, from root to tip.
[0394] The strands of hair are then placed in a watch glass and left to rest for 1 minute.
[0395] Next, the hair strands are rinsed with water by passing the strand between the fingers (15 passes). The hair strands are then squeezed dry between two fingers before the next shampoo.
[0396] Once the tests of several shampoos have been carried out, the strands of hair are combed and blow-dried. Results
[0397] The persistence of the color of the strands was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Konica Minolta CM3600A spectrophotometer (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0398] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0399] The permanence of the color is evaluated by the color difference AE between measurements taken on colored strands before shampooing, and then after 5 shampoos according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more the color persists through shampooing.
[0400] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation: ag =
[0401] In this equation, L*, a*, b* represent the values measured after hair coloring and after shampooing, and Lo*, a0*, b0* represent the values measured after hair coloring but before shampooing.
[0402] The results are summarized in Table 6 below.
[0403] [Tableauxô] Processes Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE PI (invention) 0 31.3 26.4 20.2 5 36.0 24.6 17.9 5.1 P2 (invention) 0 31.3 26.4 20.2 5 35.9 23.9 17.9 5.4 P3 (comparative) 0 31.3 26.4 20.2 5 40.1 20.5 15.6 11.0
[0404] Hair strands treated with processes PI and P2 according to the invention and washed with five shampoos exhibit lower AE values than those of hair strands treated with the comparative process P3.
[0405] Thus, the coloured coating obtained with the process according to the invention exhibits improved resistance to shampoos.
Claims
Demands
1. A hair coloring process comprising: a) applying to the hair at least one composition T comprising at least hydrogen peroxide; then b) applying to the hair at least one composition C comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; - at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids; and - at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
2. A process according to claim 1, characterized in that the total quantity of hydrogen peroxide ranges from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, better from 2 to 10% by weight, better still from 3 to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of composition T.
3. A method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is / are selected from the compounds of the following formula (I): OO ® 1 r < AR^Xr "N—A—A3—N"' ......HL h H “ in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S, or an NH group; - Ri and R2 independently represent a group selected from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), a group selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane, and.
4. a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and by one or more groups selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsi lyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and - A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below: A process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is / are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II): v (H), No ; The AH . jA ■'. "• .AA ' ' A\ “aK:? 'SECOND .. XK < aAH ... No s X< in which - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S, or an NH group; - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2, and w denotes an integer from 1 to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in the C1-C18 group, a cycloalkylene radical in the C3-C15 group, a heterocycloalkylene group in the C3-C12 group, or an arylene group in the C6-C14 group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-, in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);- R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
5. A method according to claim 4, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 are chosen independently from dialkylaminoalcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w equals 1; - L1 is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C1-C18, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-C12, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;- when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
6. A process according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is / are selected from compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical; - E independently represents a group selected from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
7. A method according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is / are selected from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI): Ri3-[O-CH2-C(H)(Ri4)]q- (VI), in which Rn represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl group, Ru represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;- Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and - E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.;
8. A method according to any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is / are selected from compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
9. - Ri and R2 independently represent the compound with the following formula (VI): R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and - E represents a group- -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). A process according to any one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (XII): (XII), in which Li is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group- -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer from 4 to 30.
10. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
11. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids is an acrylic polymer.
12. A process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the acrylic polymer(s) comprise one or more motifs derived from the following monomers: a) (meth)acrylic acid; and b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, more preferably in C1 to C10, and even more preferably in C1 to C4.
13. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, preferably acrylic polymers, are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
14. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of colouring agent(s) selected from pigments, direct colourings, and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
15. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises (c) applying to the hair of a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.
16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step b) consists of extemporaneously mixing at least two compositions A and B at the time of use to obtain a composition C and applying composition C to the hair, with: - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 3 to 9; - composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids as defined in any one of claims 1 and 11 to 12, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof as defined in claim 1.
17. A device for hair coloring comprising several compartments containing: * in a first compartment, a composition T comprising at least hydrogen peroxide as defined in claim 1 or 2, * in a second compartment, a composition A comprising: (1) at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 3 to 9, * in a third compartment, a composition B comprising: (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids as defined in any one of claims 1 and 11 to 12, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one colouring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof as defined in claim 1; * optionally in a fourth compartment, a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as defined in claim 15.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Improved process for the production of carbodiimide modified organic isocyanates
CA2509861A1
Composite particles, process for producing the same, and pigment, paint and resin composition using the same
EP1184426A2
Use of an insoluble pigment obtained by oxidative polymerisation of indole derivatives for the temporary dyeing of keratinous fibres
FR2679771A1
Liquid carbodiimide- and uretonimine-isocyanurate-containing polyisocyanate compositions and microcellular foams made therefrom
US4284730A
A hair coloring process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a carboxyl group polymer, and a non-siliconized fatty substance.
FR3123567A1