Composition comprising an amino acid, a hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid, a silicone, and a non-siliconized solid fat with a specific non-siliconized solid fat / silicone ratio

A cosmetic composition with amino acids, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, and non-siliconized solid fats enhances hair strength and shine, addressing damage and breakage from external and chemical treatments.

FR3163851A1Pending Publication Date: 2026-01-02LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024006956
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-06-27
Publication Date
2026-01-02

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Hair is weakened or damaged by external agents and chemical treatments, leading to breakage and loss of shine, and existing hair care products do not adequately address these issues in terms of strengthening and enhancing cosmetic properties.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising amino acid-type compounds, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, and non-siliconized solid fats, with a specific ratio of non-siliconized solid fat to silicone, which improves hair resistance to breakage and enhances shine and cosmetic properties.

Benefits of technology

The composition strengthens hair, reduces breakage, and improves shine while providing detangling, smooth feel, suppleness, manageability, and individualization, particularly for sensitized or damaged hair post-treatments.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for hair care, comprising one or more amino acid compounds, one or more carboxylic hydroxy acids, one or more silicones, and one or more non-siliconized solid fats with a weight ratio of non-siliconized solid fat(s) to silicone(s) less than or equal to 10. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning hair, using said composition.
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Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising an amino acid, a hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid, a silicone, and a non-siliconized solid fat with a specific non-siliconized solid fat / silicone ratio

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for hair, comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds, one or more carboxylic hydroxy acids, one or more silicones, and one or more non-siliconized solid fats with a weight ratio of non-siliconized solid fat(s) / silicone(s) less than or equal to 10. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process implementing said composition.

[0002] Hair can be weakened or damaged by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and inclement weather, or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming, and / or straightening. In particular, coloring or bleaching hair products can sometimes be responsible for a degradation of the fiber quality, as the proteins that make up the hair can be denatured. This degradation of fiber quality can lead to significant breakage when combing, especially when these products are applied to sensitized hair, and also to a degradation of the hair's cosmetic properties, particularly its shine. To remedy these drawbacks, it is common to use hair care products that condition the hair.These hair care compositions can be conditioning shampoos or conditioners, which may come in the form of gels, hair lotions, or creams of varying thicknesses. However, it is still possible to improve the performance of such compositions, particularly in terms of strengthening (denser, stronger hair), as well as in terms of cosmetic properties such as detangling, smooth feel, suppleness, softness, manageability, individualization of hair, and shine.

[0003] The composition which is the subject of the present invention, and its implementation, make it possible to achieve this goal.

[0004] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising:

[0005] - one or more amino acid-type compounds, present in a total content of minus 0.5% by weight compared to the total weight of the composition,

[0006] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 atoms of carbon, and / or their salts, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0007] - one or more silicones,

[0008] - one or more non-siliconized solid fats,

[0009] it being understood that the weight ratio between the total content of non-siliconized solid fat(s) and the total content of silicone(s) is less than or equal to 10.

[0010] It has been observed that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance to breakage of the hair, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit its reduction or loss of shine, or even to improve the shine.

[0011] The composition according to the invention gives the hair good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of hair transformation, detangling, smooth feel, suppleness, softness, manageability, and individualization of the hair, as well as excellent performance in terms of shine, while also giving strength, body and a mass effect to the hair.

[0012] The composition according to the invention finds a very particular application in cosmetic treatment, in particular the conditioning of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged keratin fibers, in particular following physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, for example coloring, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0013] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0014] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it.

[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.

[0016] By "transformation" or "transformation upon application," we mean the softening of the keratin fiber upon contact with a composition. More specifically, the composition according to the invention is applied to damp hair. The transformation property is therefore evaluated on damp hair. Amino acid-type compounds

[0017] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.5% by weight of one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0018] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid-type compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid functions and / or sulfonic acid, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being intra-cyclic, possibly in salt form.

[0019] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from among amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0020] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (A) below and / or their salts.

[0021] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (A):

[0022] COOH (A) H — C — R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0023] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0024] Preferably, p=2.

[0025] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom - S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0026] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0027] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (A).

[0028] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, and potassium salts; salts of alkaline earth metals such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0029] Amino acid type compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0030] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0031] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0032] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0034] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0035] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0036] The total content of amino acid compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.9 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] In particular, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s) in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.9 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.9 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] In particular, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 5% by weight. weight, or even 0.8 to 3% by weight, or even better 0.9 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.9 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0041] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least 0.5% by weight of one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0042] These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0043] Said (poly)acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form); they may comprise several, in particular at least 2 COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0044] They also include at least one OH group, but may include several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0045] Preferably, they comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

[0046] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and from 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acidic or salt form).

[0047] Salts of these (poly)acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium, and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

[0048] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from among the alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

[0049] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, especially from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids selected from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises glycolic acid, preferably in a content of between 0.05 and 5% by weight, preferably 0.06 to 2.5% by weight, better 0.07 to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicones

[0054] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones, which can in particular be chosen from among amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Non-amine silicones

[0056] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amine silicones, which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile.

[0057] The non-amine silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0058] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.

[0059] Volatile silicones can be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from:

[0060] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

[0061] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Examples include products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

[0062] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with structure chemical: i— D - D'---------D — D'--1 CH, 1------------------------------1 CH, I ' I. ' with D: If O with D': If O CH. C3H:?

[0063] One example is "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0064] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds silicon derivatives, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0065] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0066] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; one can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

[0067] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0068] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0069] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0070] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising possibly C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;

[0071] - thiol groups, such as products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;

[0072] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0073] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with functional hydroxyalkyl;

[0074] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent-A-4957732.

[0075] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

[0076] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). The following commercial products are examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes:

[0077] - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0078] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

[0079] - oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0080] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0081] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of the 48 series of the RHODIA company.

[0082] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0083] Products more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0084] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the DOW CORNING company.

[0085] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0086] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can mention the products marketed under the following names:

[0087] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series of RHODIA;

[0088] - the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0089] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0090] - silicones from the PK series of BAYER such as product PK20;

[0091] - silicones from the PN, PH series of BAYER such as the PN1000 products and PH1000;

[0092] - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0093] The non-amine silicones most particularly preferred according to the invention are the trimethylsiloxanes with terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0094] Amino silicones

[0095] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0096] Preferably the composition comprises one or more amino silicones.

[0097] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.

[0098] Amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0099] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0100] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

[0101] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0102] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (II):

[0103] R'aG(3_a)-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'(2b))m-OSiG(3a)R'a- (II)

[0104] in which:

[0105] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in CrC8, for example methyl or alkoxy in CrC8, for example methoxy, - a, a' identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0106] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0107] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0108] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quatemized chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0109] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) may be selected from:

[0110] (i) "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones conforming to formula (III):

[0111] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0112] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0113] in which:

[0114] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0115] - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci -C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0116] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0117] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0118] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0119] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):

[0120] in which:

[0121] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0122] - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, one at minus the Ri or R2 radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

[0123] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0124] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0125] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0126] Commercial products containing structural (IV) or (V) silicones may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones with a structure different from the (IV) or (V) formulas. A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (XIV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0127] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any type, but preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive), and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm. nm (including terminals). Thus, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER can be used.

[0128] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI): L (VI)

[0129] in which:

[0130] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n represents a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m represents a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0131] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0132] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amine-based silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.

[0133] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0134] in which:

[0135] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in a particular number from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0136] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0137] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.

[0138] C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII):

[0139] in which:

[0140] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;

[0141] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0142] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;

[0143] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0144] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0145] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (IX)

[0146] in which:

[0147] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0148] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0149] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical monovalent hydrocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0150] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate; and

[0151] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, the silicone with INCI name QUATERNIUM 80 can be mentioned.

[0152] Silicones falling within this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

[0153] E) Amino silicones of formula (X): (X)

[0154] in which:

[0155] - Ri, R2, Ri and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0156] - R5 designates an alkyl radical in CrC4 or a hydroxyl group,

[0157] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0158] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0159] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0160] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.

[0161] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[0162] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else

[0163] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:

[0164] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0165] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;

[0166] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0167] - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0168] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2 , linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0169] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 -Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0170] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0171] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0172] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0173] G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): (XI)

[0174] in which:

[0175] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0176] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0177] - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in weight of the The compound value is between 5000 and 500000. (xn)

[0178] in which:

[0179] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;

[0180] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, designate a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0181] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0182] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0183] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and

[0184]

[0185]

[0186]

[0187]

[0188]

[0189]

[0190] eicosyl; and preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. Preferably, in silicone formula (XII), we have: - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000; - ranging from 1 to 100; - A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. A preferred silicone formulation (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. A notable example is the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive. H) polysiloxanes, and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0191] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu.

[0192] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000.

[0193] As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0194] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000.

[0195] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0196] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also include, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: -, (XVIH) ] HO. / \ XOH I """X ] HO™™' X^OH

[0197] in which:

[0198] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;

[0199] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10, and even better, between 1 and 5;

[0200] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals optionally being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH;

[0201] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0202] - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0203] Preferably, the identical or different R's are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular, dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably the identical or different Rs are chosen from among the saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14, Cl5, alone or in mixture, and preferably represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.

[0204] Preferably, the R's” are identical.

[0205] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.

[0206] Preferably, R'' is a linear alkylene divalent radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0207] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more amino silicones selected from, alone or in mixture:

[0208] (i) amino silicones of formula (II) as defined above, and

[0209] (ii) Amino silicones of formula (XVIII) as defined above.

[0210] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more amino silicones, preferably one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0211] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0212] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0213] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0214] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

[0215] - R” is a linear alkylene divalent radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0216] More preferably, the composition comprises one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0217] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0218] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0219] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0220] - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and

[0221] - R' ' is a radical -(CH2)2-.

[0222] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). One example is the silicone marketed by DOW under the name "DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent".

[0223] In another preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more amino silicones of formula (II) as defined above, preferably one or more amino silicones of formula (II) in which G denotes a C1-C8 alkyl and a=a'=0; a particularly preferred silicone of formula (II) being aminopropyldimethicone, such as that marketed under the names X-22-9686 and KF-8015 by SHIN ETSU.

[0224] Even better, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0225] - at least one silicone selected from the amino silicones of formula (XVIII) cited above above, particularly those in which n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and R” is a -(CH2)2- radical, more preferably the Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone, and

[0226] - at least one silicone selected from the amino silicones of formula (II) above, preferably those in which G designates a C1-C8 alkyl and a=a'=0; a silicone of formula (II) particularly preferred being aminopropyldimethicone, such as that marketed under the name X-22-9686 by SHIN ETSU.

[0227] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more amino silicones in a total content preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] Even more advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amino silicone of formula (II) and / or at least one amino silicone of formula (XVIII), the total amino silicone content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Better still, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amino silicone of formula (II) and at least one amino silicone of formula (XVIII), the total amino silicone content preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solid, non-siliconized fat

[0230] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-siliconized solid fats.

[0231] The term “non-siliconized fat” means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds.

[0232] Solid fat means a fat having a melting point above 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0233] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0234] Solid fats may be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0235] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms previously described.

[0236] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from among saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0237] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0238] - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0239] - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0240] - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

[0241] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0242] - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0243] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0244] - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0245] - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0246] - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0247] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, cetostearyl alcohol.

[0248] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol, more preferably from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0249] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0250] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0251] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, C9-C26 alkyl stearates (in particular myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate), octyl pelargonate, C9-C26 alkyl myristates (in particular cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate and stearyl myristate), diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, adipate dioctyl, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, C9-C26 alkyl palmitates (including myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate), and mixtures thereof such as compounds with INCI name "cetyl esters".

[0252] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, more preferably from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof. Esters with the INCI name "cetyl esters" are particularly preferred.

[0253] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.

[0254] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0255] We can mention in particular shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.

[0256] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter. Shea butter is known to be extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.

[0257] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0258] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0259] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0260] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in the C2 to C60 range, such as Microwax HW.

[0261] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0262] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in the C8 to C32 range. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0263] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0264] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0265] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0266] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0267] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0268] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: P v OH OH ■""" OH*""* O*^ ^ 0 A NH

[0269] in which:

[0270] - RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from acids fatty acids in C14-C30, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in C16-C30;

[0271] - R2 designates a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a group (galactosyl)m or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0272] - R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in position alpha, this group can be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14;

[0273] it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

[0274] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0275] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear group at C15.

[0276] Compounds may also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0277] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2- hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine should be used.

[0278] Preferably, non-siliconized solid fats are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters and their mixtures.

[0279] Even more preferably, non-siliconized solid fats are chosen from cetearyl alcohol, compounds with the INCI name "cetyl esters", shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0280] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-siliconized solid fat(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fatty alcohol(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0282] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid ester(s) of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols in a total amount from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols in a total amount from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0283] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the butter(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.2 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0284] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants. The cationic surfactant(s) are different from fats. Said cationic surfactants are non-siliconized, that is to say, they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0285] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0286] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0287] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which:

[0288] X is an anion in particular selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;

[0289] the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0290] Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are, for example, selected from CrC3O alkyl groups, CrC3O alkoxy groups, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene groups, C3O-Ci alkylamide groups, C2-Ci2-C22 alkylamidoalkyl groups, C2-Ci2-C22 alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate groups, and C3O-Ci hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0291] Among quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts are preferred, in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK.

[0292] In particular, the chloride, bromide or methylsulfate salts of these compounds are preferred.

[0293] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): (III) CH2CH—N(Rg)— CO—R5 c—c H, H. £2 in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively.

[0294] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0295] Such a product is marketed for example under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0296] - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts in particular of formula (IV): in which

[0297] R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0298] Rio is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(RiOa)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group, with R9a, RiOa, Rna, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0299] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0300] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): (CSH2£O)-R18 (V) O | R17—C-COC^)—N—X RF5 in which:

[0301] Rb is selected from Ci-C6 alkyl groups and Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0302] Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group; the R20 groups which are CrC22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,

[0303] Ri8 is chosen from the R21-C(O)- group; the R22 groups which are Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

[0304] Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0305] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0306] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0307] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0308] X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

[0309] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R[6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 denotes R22.

[0310] The alkyl groups R[5] can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R[5] designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0311] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0312] When Ri6 is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0313] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0314] Advantageously, R[7, R[9 and R2[, identical or different, are chosen from among the Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from the Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0315] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0316] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0317] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0318] Anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide, or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function may be used. Anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0319] In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (V) in which Ri5 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group, the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom; Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0320] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0321] Examples include compounds of formula (V) such as salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0322] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with C10-C30 fatty acids or mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol.

[0323] Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0324] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0325] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 patents can also be used.

[0326] The behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0327] Preferably ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0328] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-met-hylammonium salts are preferred.

[0329] The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylened, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0330] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0331] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be selected from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0332] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0333] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0334] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0335] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably of 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23 linear or branched; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0336] Fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, the palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0337] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0338] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI), and mixtures thereof; better from those of formula (II) and / or formula (VI); even better from those of formula (II).

[0339] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0340] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, and their mixtures, better still behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0341] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one cationic surfactant.

[0342] When present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0343] When present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from those of formula (II) in the composition according to the invention will preferably be from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0344] When present, the total content of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymer

[0345] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more associative polymers.

[0346] "Associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0347] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0348] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a hydrocarbon chain radical or polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0349] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0350] Associative polymers can be of non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

[0351] Preferably, the associative polymers according to the invention are of a non-ionic nature.

[0352] The non-ionic associative polymers usable in the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0353] (1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one chain fat. Examples include:

[0354] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least a fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably in C8-C22, such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyls in Cl6) or POLYSURF 67 CS sold by the ASHLAND company, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the BEROL NOBEL company,

[0355] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol ether groups d(alkyl C8-C22)phenol, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL.

[0356] (2) hydroxypropylguars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0357] (3) inulins modified by groups comprising at least one chain fats such as alkyl carbamate inulins and in particular Inulin lauryl carba-mate offered by the company ORAFTI under the name INUTEC SPI.

[0358] (4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fat, of which we can cite as an example:

[0359] - the products ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / hexadecene) sold by the company ISP

[0360] - the products ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / eicosene) sold by the company ISP

[0361] (5) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or mono-acrylates amphiphilic mothers comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208.

[0362] (6) copolymers of methacrylates or hydrophilic acrylates and monomers hydrophobic compounds comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0363] (7) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both sequences hydrophilic, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0364] (8) aminoplast ether backbone polymers having at least one chain oily, such as the PURETHIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

[0365] Preferably, the associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers according to the invention comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains being able to be dangling chains or end chains of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more dangling chains may be provided. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0366] Polyurethane polyethers can be multi-sequenced, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and throughout the chain (e.g., a multi-sequenced copolymer). These same polymers can also be in graft or star form.

[0367] Nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0368] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

[0369] As examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers usable in the invention, we can also mention Rhéolate 205 with urea function sold by the company ELEMENTIS or Rhéolates 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184.

[0370] We can also mention the ELFACOS T210 product with a C12-C14 alkyl chain and the ELFACOS T212 product with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO.

[0371] The product DW 1206B from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0372] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in hydroalcoholic media. Examples of such polymers include RHEOLATE 255, RHEOLATE 278, and RHEOLATE 244, sold by ELEMENTIS. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, offered by ROHM & HAAS, can also be used.

[0373] Polyurethane polyethers usable according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0374] In one embodiment, an associative nonionic polyurethane polyether is used, which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds. containing (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 100 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 moles of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.

[0375] Such a polymer is notably offered by the company ELEMENTIS under the name RHEOLATE FX 1100 ® which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 136 moles of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) having average molecular weight by weight (Mw) of 30000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / STEARETH-100 / HDI COPOLYMER).

[0376] In another embodiment, a polyurethane polyether can also be used, which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0377] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46, ACULYN 44 [ACULYN 46 is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44 is a polyethylene glycol (PEG) polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0378] Preferably, the associative polymers as described above have a number molecular mass of less than 500,000 and even more preferably less than 100,000, preferably ranging from 5,000 to 80,000, which can be measured by methods such as cryoscopy, osmotic pressure, ebullioscopy, terminal group titration.

[0379] The non-ionic associative polymer(s) according to the invention are preferably chosen from the polyurethane polyethers of family (7), in particular those capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one dii-socyanate.

[0380] More particularly, the non-ionic associative polymer(s) used in the invention is or are selected from polyethylene glycol polycondensate 1 with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) sold under the name ACULYN 44, polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) sold under the name ACULYN 46, and mixtures thereof.

[0381] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more associative polymers, better one or more non-ionic associative polymers.

[0382] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the non-ionic associative polymer(s) in a total quantity preferably ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, better from 0.05 to 2% by weight and even more preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0383] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic associative polyurethane polyether(s) of family (7) in a total quantity preferably ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polymers

[0384] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more cationic polymers.

[0385] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer (not containing silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0386] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0387] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0388] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0389] The cationic polymers that may be used are preferably non-associative.

[0390] Among the cationic polymers that could be used, the following may be mentioned:

[0391] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs: NH 1 A R,—-N— * I - R: —CHC — __CH.-. C - — CHj— C— OC O=c OC III O o NH II ¥ । AA' A NR—N+ —n r^ Xri r5 nf H

[0392] in which:

[0393] - R3, identical or different, designate a hydrogen atony or a CH3 radical;

[0394] - A, identical or different, represent a linear or linear alkyl divalent group branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0395] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0396] - RI and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0397] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as an anion methosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0398] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

[0399] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention:

[0400] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

[0401] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl chloride copolymers Itrimethylammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

[0402] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl methosulfate copolymer hydroxymethylammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

[0403] - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quantified or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";

[0404] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0405] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

[0406] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers quantified products, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

[0407] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.One example is the compound with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-37. These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

[0408] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and gums of cationic galactomannans.

[0409] Among cationic polysaccharides, particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0410] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. One example is the compound with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10. These polymers are marketed under the names "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL.

[0411] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4131576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, are particularly noteworthy, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium is especially noteworthy.

[0412] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0413] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0414] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0415] Examples include products with the INCI names "HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" and "GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0416] Among the cationic polysaccharides that could be used, cationic derivatives of cassia gum, particularly those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, we can mention the product with the INCI name "CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE".

[0417] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched hydroxyalkylene chains, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0418] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

[0419] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are derived from polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation with bifunctional agents. An example is the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymer, in which the alkyl group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.

[0420] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0421] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

[0422] in which

[0423] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0424] - R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0425] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a Cl-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may jointly designate, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, preferably designate a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0426] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

[0427] We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0428] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: II - --- OH) R„x- R!6X-

[0429] in which:

[0430] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, whether identical or different, represent radicals aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in Cl-Cl2,

[0431] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

[0432] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0433] - Al and B1 represent polymethylene divalent groups comprising of 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0434] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0435] it being understood that Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

[0436] Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D designating:

[0437] a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0438] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

[0439] c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0440] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH- .

[0441] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

[0442] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: -N-(CHA — (iV) । ' । x-2p R2 x R,

[0443] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0444] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that in which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, designated Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0445] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (V): R. —w- r23 (CH A - NH - CO - (CH,) - CO - NH (CHA, - N+ - A — 'TY x ' G " / A'*-* । (V) HAS-

[0446] in which:

[0447] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0448] - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0449] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0450] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0451] - A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2- CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0452] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

[0453] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF

[0454] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

[0455] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0456] (a) one or more patterns conforming to the following formula (A): —CH~—CH — I NH2

[0457] (b) possibly one or more patterns corresponding to the following formula (B): CH.—CH z | (B) NH—CH II O

[0458] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.

[0459] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers having in their structure 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).

[0460] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.

[0461] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0462] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

[0463] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from among, alone or in mixture, the homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides of the family (1) as defined above, in particular the compound with INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-37.

[0464] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers.

[0465] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the cationic polymer(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.06 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0466] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides of family (1) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.06 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic non-associative polysaccharides

[0467] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-ionic non-associative polysaccharides.

[0468] Non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0469] These polymers can be modified by physical or chemical means. Physical treatment may be indicated by temperature; and chemical treatment may be indicated by esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions, insofar as these treatments lead to non-ionic polymers.

[0470] Examples of galactomannans that may be used include non-ionic guar gums that can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0471] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0472] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0473] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0474] The starch molecules usable in the present invention may be of botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are, for example, selected from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches. The starches may be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.

[0475] Starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch, such as maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0476] Non-ionic polysaccharides can also be cellulosic polymers without a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0477] By "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; cellulosic polymers can be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or derivatives of non-ionic celluloses.

[0478] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulosic polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester-ethers.

[0479] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.

[0480] Preferably, non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, galactomannans and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; and even better from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by Cl-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl (INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR).

[0481] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic non-associative polysaccharide.

[0482] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the non-associative non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.08 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0483] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) selected from non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by (poly)hydroxylakyl groups in C1-C6, and their mixtures, in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.08 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactants

[0484] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0485] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:

[0486] - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0487] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerol-based, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0488] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;

[0489] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0490] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol preferably oxygenated;

[0491] - fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0492] - alkyl(poly)glycosides possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and may include 1 to 15 glucose motifs,

[0493] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0494] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0495] - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0496] - amine oxides.

[0497] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylated, oxypropylated motifs, or their combination, preferably oxyethylated.

[0498] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide will preferably be 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

[0499] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene motifs.

[0500] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0501] As examples of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, preferred are C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0502] Examples include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0503] Among glycerol alcohols, C8 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, C1 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are preferred in particular.

[0504] Non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants can in particular be represented by the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0505] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0506] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0507] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0508] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0509] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0510] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0511] - RI designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0512] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0513] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0514] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0515] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preference from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0516] The glucosidic linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16-1,4-alkyl(poly)glucosides are particularly preferred, especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0517] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0518] Preferably, alkyl C8 / C16-(poly)glycoside 1,4 is used, in particular in aqueous solution at 53%, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.

[0519] The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0520] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

[0521] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

[0522] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glycosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably of 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs;

[0523] - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

[0524] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;

[0525] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0526] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated.

[0527] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following:

[0528] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 100, and comprising one or two fatty chains, more preferably at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, better in C10-C18; the product with INCI name STEARETH-100 is particularly preferred;

[0529] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated, and

[0530] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0531] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0532] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0533] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 100, and comprising one or two fatty chains, more preferably at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, better in C10-C18, in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Polyols

[0534] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more polyols.

[0535] The polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from among the polyols of formula (B) following: RL RL (B) R'..----C:------ [a'I--C----■ RL - । LJ m । OH OH

[0536] formula (B) in which:

[0537] - R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4, whether identical or different, independently designate one of the other a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, linear or branched, in Cl to C6 or a mono or polyhydroxyalkylated radical in Cl to C6,

[0538] - A denotes an alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing 1 At 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprises from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms, but no hydroxyl group, and

[0539] - m denotes 0 or 1.

[0540] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from polyols of formula (B), in which m is 0, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), 1,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl 2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol, glycerin, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0541] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (B), in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3, and R'4, identical or different, designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in the C6 to Cl group, and mixtures thereof. They may advantageously be chosen from the polyethylene glycols and their mixtures, and more particularly the product named PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Seventh Edition).

[0542] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (B), in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3, and R'4, identical or different, designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in Cl to C6, and whose molecular weight is less than 200, and their mixtures. According to this particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol) and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0543] Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of said polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention is between 50 and 350, more preferably between 60 and 200, and even better between 70 and 150.

[0544] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from diols, glycerin, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from compounds of formula (B) in which R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4, identical or different, independently designate a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in Cl to C6, glycerin and mixtures thereof.

[0545] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are selected from glycerin, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), pinacol (2,3-dimethyl 2,3-butanediol), 2,3-butanediol, polyethylene glycols, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is glycerin or propylene glycol, and in mixtures of these, more preferably, the polyol is glycerin.

[0546] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols, preferably glycerin and / or propylene glycol, alone or in mixture.

[0547] When present, the total content of the polyol(s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better from 0.8 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0548] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerin in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, plus preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better from 0.8 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cinnamic acid derivative#:

[0549] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one compound of the following formula (C):

[0550] wherein RI represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal ion, an alkyl radical in Cl to C20, preferably in Cl to C10, more preferably in Cl to C4, linear or branched, an alkenyl radical in C2 to C20, linear or branched, or an alkynyl radical in C2 to C20, linear or branched;

[0551] R2 and R3, different or identical to each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in Cl to C20, preferably in Cl to C10, more preferably in Cl to C4 linear or branched, an alkenyl radical in C2 to C20, linear or branched, or an alkynyl radical in C2 to C20, linear or branched, as well as their salts, their solvates and their optical and / or geometric isomers.

[0552] Preferably, RI represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in Cl with linear or branched CIO.

[0553] Preferably, RI represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C4 Cl alkyl radical.

[0554] More preferably, RI represents a hydrogen atom.

[0555] Preferably, R2 and R3, different or identical to each other, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in Cl with linear or branched CIO.

[0556] Preferably, R2 and R3, different or identical to each other, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C4 Cl alkyl radical.

[0557] More preferably, R2 and R3 are different from each other and represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C4 Cl alkyl radical.

[0558] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (C) is ferulic acid in which RI represents a hydrogen atom, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, and R3 represents a methyl group, or one of its derivatives.

[0559] Ferulic acid is a derivative of cinnamic acid (hydroxy-4-methoxy-3-cinnamic acid) which can be found in many grains such as rice, wheat, oats but also coffee, apples, artichokes, peanuts, oranges and pineapples.

[0560] By "derived" of ferulic acid, we mean in particular its esters and / or salts and / or plant extracts containing it. Preferably, the esters will be used.

[0561] Examples of ferulic acid esters include ferulic acid esters and C1-C4 alcohols, in particular methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate and isopropyl ferulate.

[0562] Examples of ferulic acid salts include organic ferulic acid salts, in particular sodium salts (e.g., sodium ferulate and sodium isoferulate).

[0563] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a compound of formula (C), better still the composition comprises ferulic acid.

[0564] The compound of formula (C) is advantageously present in a content of between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional compounds

[0565] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, for example from 55 to 90% by weight, in particular from 60 to 85% by weight, better from 65 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0566] The pH of the composition may be between 2 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 3 and 5.

[0567] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents other than the polyols described above, liquid at 25°C, 1 atmosphere, preferably hydrophilic (soluble or miscible with water), which may be selected from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent other than the polyols is selected from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols. It may advantageously be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Additives

[0568] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, different from the compounds described above, in particular selected from non-siliconized liquid fats, gelling agents; film-forming polymers, fixing polymers, sunscreens; agents Anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, mother-of-pearl, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; and preservatives. Those skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0569] In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between the total content of non-siliconized solid fat(s) and the total silicone content is between 1 and 9, more preferably between 5 and 8.

[0570] More preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of non-siliconized solid fat(s) and the total content of amino silicone(s) is less than or equal to 10, preferably between 1 and 9, more preferably between 5 and 8.

[0571] In another preferred embodiment, the total quantity of fats, solid(s) or liquid(s), siliconed or not, is less than or equal to 10, preferably less than or equal to 9.

[0572] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprises:

[0573] - at least 0.5% by weight of one or more selected amino acid-type compounds from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc, and their mixtures; preferably chosen from glycine, its salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc, and their mixtures;

[0574] preferably in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.9 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0575] - at least 0.5% by weight of one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, chosen from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially citric acid or its salts, in particular alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate;

[0576] preferably in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, or even from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0577] - one or more amino silicones selected from:

[0578] the amino silicones of formula (II) above, in which G denotes a C1-C8 alkyl and a=a'=0; and the amino silicones of formula (XVIII) above in the- n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and R” is a -(CH2)2- radical; better still a mixture of the said amino silicones of formula (II) and (XVIII) preceding;

[0579] preferably in a total content of 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0580] - one or more non-siliconized solid fats selected from fatty alcohols solids, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters and their mixtures, more preferably a mixture of cetearyl alcohol, compounds with INCI name "cetyl esters" and shea butter;

[0581] preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0582] - optionally, one or more cationic surfactants selected from those of formula (II), preferably among cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof, better still behenyltrimethylammonium chloride;

[0583] preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0584] - optionally, one or more non-ionic associative polymers, selected among the polyurethane polyethers of family (7), capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate;

[0585] preferably present in a total quantity of 0.05 to 2% by weight, better still of 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0586] - optionally, one or more cationic polymers selected from the homopolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following formula units:

[0587] as defined above;

[0588] preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.06 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0589] - optionally one or more non-ionic non-associative polysaccharides chosen from non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by (poly)hydroxylakyl groups in C1-C6;

[0590] preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.08 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0591] - optionally one or more non-ionic surfactants, preferably chosen among C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain;

[0592] preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0593] - optionally one or more polyols, preferably selected from glycerin or propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;

[0594] preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better from 0.8 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0595] - optionally ferulic acid or one of its derivatives, preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0596] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds a particularly interesting application in the field of hair care, especially for cleansing and / or conditioning hair. Hair care compositions are preferably shampoos or conditioners; advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a conditioner, in particular a shampoo, or a mask that can be rinsed off.

[0597] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratinous materials, particularly hair. Rinsing with water, for example, may be optional after a possible application time. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is rinsed after an application time.

[0598] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, followed preferably by rinsing, after a setting time.

[0599] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.

[0600] In particular, it may be a cosmetic treatment process for strengthening hair, especially hair that is sensitized, weakened and / or damaged.

[0601] It can also be a process to limit the loss of shine in hair, especially hair that is sensitized, weakened and / or damaged.

[0602] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0603] In the following examples, all quantities are given, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active material (g% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0604] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0605] [Tables 1] Al (invention) B (comparative) CETYL ESTERS 1.2 1.2 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 5.5 5.5 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) B UTTER 0.4 0.4 BIS(C13-15 ALKOXY) PG-AMODIMET HICONE 1 0.55 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0.2 0.2 PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI CO POLYMER 0.18 0.18 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.2 0.2 POLYQUATERNIUM-37 0.07 0.07 PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLAT E / DICAPRATE 0.05 0.05 PPG-1 TRIDECETH-6 0.01 0.01 STEARETH-100 0.25 0.25 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2.8 2.8 ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.6 0.6 CITRIC ACID 3 3 GLYCINE 1 1 POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0.8 0.8 GLYCERIN 1 1 FRAGRANCE 0.9 0.9 FERULIC ACID 0.5 0.5 GLYCOLIC ACID 0.08 0.08 PRECONDOMS Qs Qs WATER Qs 100 Qs 100 Solid non-siliconized CG 7.1% 7.1% Aminated silicone 1% 0.55% Ratio of solid non-siliconized CG / Aminated silicone 7.1 12.9

[0606] CG means "fatty body".

[0607] Visual observation: brightness criterion

[0608] Compositions Al and B were tested on SA40 hair strands (2.7 g / 27 cm) previously washed with DOP shampoo (0.75 g of shampoo per 2.7 g of hair). Compositions Al and B were applied at a rate of 1.25 g of composition per 2.7 g of hair; the strands were then rinsed and blow-dried for approximately 3 minutes (at a temperature of 50-90°C, minimum distance of 15 cm) to obtain a dry strand.

[0609] 7 experts carried out a visual observation of the hair strands, and compared the two strands blindly, giving a score from 0 to 5, in increments of 0.5.

[0610] A score of 5 means that the strands are very shiny, while a score of 0 means that the strands are not shiny at all.

[0611] The results are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0612] [Tables2] Composition A1 (invention) B (comparative) Expert 1 5 4 Expert 2 5 3 Expert 3 4.5 3.5 Expert 4 4.5 4 Expert 5 4 3.5 Expert 6 4.5 3.5 Expert 7 4 3 Average 4.5 3.5

[0613] It was observed by experts that the Al composition according to the invention left the hair visually very shiny.

[0614] In contrast, hair treated with comparative composition B was significantly less shiny. Example 2

[0615] The composition according to the following invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0616] [Tables3] A2 (invention) CETYL ESTERS 1.2 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 5.5 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) B UTTER 0.4 BIS(C13-15 ALKOXY) PG-AMODIMET HICONE 0.45 ISODODECANE 0.45 AMINOPROPYL DIMETHICONE 0.55 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0.2 PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI CO POLYMER 0.18 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.2 POLYQUATERNIUM-37 0.07 PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLAT E / DICAPRATE 0.05 PPG-1 TRIDECETH-6 0.01 STEARETH-100 0.25 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2.8 ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.6 CITRIC ACID 3 GLYCINE 1 POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0.8 GLYCERIN 1 FRAGRANCE 0.9 FERULIC ACID 0.5 GLYCOLIC ACID 0.08 PRESERVATIVES Qs WATER Qs 100

[0617] Composition A2 is presented in the form of a cream which can advantageously be used as a mask, after shampooing, and rinsed off after a leave-on time of a few minutes.

[0618] This composition can be used for detangling hair, adding shine and smoothness. Furthermore, the composition is easy to apply to damp hair and provides good hair transformation performance.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising: - one or more amino acid compounds, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - one or more silicones, - one or more non-siliconized solid fats, it being understood that the weight ratio between the total content of non-siliconized solid fats and the total content of silicones is less than or equal to 10.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to formula (A) and / or their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc: ÇOOH (A) H — C — N(H)PR in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this ring being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to formula (A) and / or their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc:. ÇOOH (A) H — ç — R in which p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or possibly substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino acid type compound(s) are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from glycine, its salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of amino acid compound(s) ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, still better from 0.9 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups; and / or their salts, in particular of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or zinc; preferably selected from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 6% by weight, or even 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicones selected from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof, more preferably amino silicones.

9. Composition according to claim 8 wherein the weight ratio between the total content of non-siliconized solid fat(s) and the total content of amino silicone(s) is less than or equal to 10, preferably between 1 and 9, more preferably between 5 and 8.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amino silicones selected from, alone or in mixtures: (i) amino silicones of formula (II): R'aG(3a)-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'(2b))m-OSiG(3a)R'a (II) wherein: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, a Ci-C8 alkyl group, for example methyl, or a CrC8 alkoxy group, for example methoxy, - a, a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;and - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quaternized chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”) 2 A, -N+H2(R”) A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H a and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A , in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being; an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide, preferably those in which G denotes a C1-C8 alkyl group and a=a'=0; a silicone of formula (II) particularly preferred being aminopropyldimethicone, and (ii) Amino silicones of formula (XVIII): in which: - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5; -R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH; - R' is a linear or branched alkylene divalent radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, especially those in which n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and R” is a -(CH2)2- radical, all particularly Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name).

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total silicone content is from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-siliconized solid fats selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof, in particular from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of non-siliconized solid fat(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, or even better from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, preferably selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium, preferably from salts of dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium; salts of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to claim 14, wherein the total content of cationic surfactants ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic, preferably selected from polyurethane polyethers of family (7), in particular those capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) to

17.

18. less a polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Composition according to claim 16, wherein the total content of associative polymers, preferably non-ionic, ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably selected from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following formula units: ^3 RJ ​​$3 —CH2-Ç—- --CHr-C- o-ç O=C o-ç OQ NH 4 to x NR;.....N+-FL N . \ ■+ : h _■ < CHf-C...... o-ç NH À $4—N™ Rÿ in which: - R3, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - RI and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide, and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.06 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters, better selected from galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers, better selected from non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by (poly)hydroxylakyl groups in Cl-C6.

20. Composition according to claim 19 wherein the total content of non-associative non-ionic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, still better from 0.08 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, preferably selected from C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated, comprising from 1 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 100, and comprising one or two fatty chains, more preferably at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, better in C10-C18, in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more polyols, preferably selected from glycerin or propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, in a total content of 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, and better 0.8 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. 23. Composition according to (C) any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one compound of the following formula (C): in which RI represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal ion, a Cl-C20 alkyl radical, preferably Cl-C10, more preferably Cl-C4, linear or branched, a C2-C20 alkenyl radical, linear or branched, or a C2-C20 alkynyl radical, linear or branched; R2 and R3, different or identical to each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in Cl to C20, preferably in Cl to C10, more preferably in Cl to C4 linear or branched, an alkenyl radical in C2 to C20, linear or branched, or an alkynyl radical in C2 to C20, linear or branched, as well as their salts, their solvates and their optical and / or geometric isomers, preferably ferulic acid or one of its derivatives.

24. Composition according to claim 23, wherein the total content of compound of formula (C) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. A cosmetic treatment method, in particular for hair, in particular for conditioning, of keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, followed preferably by rinsing, after a possible application time.

26. A method according to claim 25, for strengthening hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair and / or for limiting the loss of shine of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.

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