A hair coloring process comprising the application of a composition including a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a pigment functionalized with a phosphate additive, and a reactive polymer
The hair coloring process using a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a pigment functionalized with a phosphate additive, and a reactive polymer, addresses pigment dispersion and resistance issues, resulting in a durable and uniform hair color.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024006954
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring technologies do not effectively address the dispersion and resistance issues of pigments in aqueous cosmetic compositions, particularly in hair coloring processes, resulting in uneven and temporary hair coloring processes, and the colors obtained using this method have the disadvantage of being poorly resistant to shampoos and external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing, and/or friction. The more uniform and intense the hair color will be.
A hair coloring process using a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a pigment functionalized with a phosphate additive, and a reactive polymer, which forms a coating that is resistant to shampoos and various aggressions such as brushing and/or rubbing, while ensuring improved pigment dispersion.
The process achieves a hair color that persists after multiple shampoos and withstands various hair aggressions, with enhanced pigment dispersion and uniformity.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: A hair coloring process comprising the application of a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a pigment functionalized with a phosphate additive, and a reactive polymer
[0001] The present invention relates to a hair coloring process comprising the application of at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound, at least one pigment functionalized with at least one phosphate additive, and at least one reactive polymer. Technical field
[0002] In the field of hair keratin fiber coloring, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or from dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0003] There are essentially three types of hair coloring process:
[0004] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0005] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not implement the oxidative condensation process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing the keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
[0006] c) Temporary hair coloring that results in a change to the natural hair color that lasts from one shampoo to the next and serves to enhance or correct a previously achieved shade. It can also be considered a "makeup" process.
[0007] Another coloring method involves using pigments. Indeed, applying pigment to the surface of keratin fibers generally produces visible color on dark hair, since the surface pigment masks the fiber's natural color. Furthermore, the more homogeneously the pigments are dispersed in the cosmetic composition, the more uniform and intense the hair color will be. However, dispersing pigments in aqueous cosmetic compositions is challenging, and the colors obtained using this method have the disadvantage of being poorly resistant to shampoos and external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing, and / or friction.
[0008] There therefore remains a need for a hair coloring process, the coloring composition of which exhibits good pigment dispersion and which It has the advantage of forming a coating that resists shampoos and various aggressions that hair can undergo, such as brushing and / or rubbing.
[0009] Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a hair coloring process whose coloring composition has good pigment dispersion and which has the advantage of forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and to the various aggressions that hair can undergo, such as brushing and / or rubbing, without damaging the hair. Description of the invention
[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a hair coloring process comprising the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:
[0011] (1) at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound;
[0012] (2) at least one pigment functionalized by at least one additive of formula (I) such that defined later, and
[0013] (3) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids.
[0014] Thanks to the hair coloring process according to the invention, a hair color is obtained that is resistant to shampooing and various aggressions to which the hair may be subjected, such as brushing and / or rubbing. Furthermore, the coloring composition used in the hair coloring process according to the invention exhibits improved pigment dispersion.
[0015] By "residual shampoo colour" in the context of the present invention, the colour obtained persists after one shampoo, preferably after 5 shampoos.
[0016] The expression "at least one" means one or more.
[0017] Unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0018] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0019] For the purposes of the present invention and, unless otherwise indicated,
[0020] - an "alkyl" radical means a saturated linear or branched radical containing by example of 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
[0021] - an "aminoalkyl" radical means an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group;
[0022] - a "hydroxyalkyl" radical means an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;
[0023] - an "alkylene" radical designates a divalent saturated hydrocarbon group at C2-C4, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;
[0024] - a "cycloalkyl" or "alicycloalkyl" radical designates a hydrocarbon group saturated cyclic mono- or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, or a cyclohexyl. It being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isoboromyl group.
[0025] - a "cycloalkylene" radical designates a divalent cycloalkyl group with " cycloalkyl” as defined above, preferably in C3-Ci2;
[0026] - an "aryl" radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl;
[0027] - an "arylene" radical is a divalent aryl radical with "aryl" as defined previously preferred arylene represents phenylene;
[0028] - a "heterocyclic" radical designates a mono or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, comprising one or more heteroatoms preferably of 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 links preferably between 5 and 10 links such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;
[0029] - a "heterocycloalkylene" radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with "heterocyclic" as defined above;
[0030] - an "aryloxy" radical designates an aryl-oxy radical with "aryl" as defined previously;
[0031] - an "alkoxy" radical designates an alkyl-oxy radical with "alkyl" as defined previously;
[0032] - an "acyloxy" radical designates an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as defined previously;
[0033] - a "reactive" group is a group capable of forming a bond covalent with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction.
[0034] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in this application, this also includes their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixtures.
[0035] By "capillary keratin fibers" is meant hair. In other words, the expressions "capillary keratin fibers" and "hair" are equivalent in the remainder of the description.
[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Brief description of the drawings
[0037] Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following description, given solely by way of non-limiting example and made with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:
[0038] - Fig. 1 is a microscopic photograph of the dye composition Cl, used within the framework of an embodiment of a process according to the invention; and
[0039] - Figure [Fig. 2] is a microscopic photograph of the dye composition C2, used within the framework of an embodiment of a comparative process. Polycarbodiimide compound
[0040] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound.
[0041] The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present in mixture in the composition.
[0042] The term "(poly)carbodiimide compound" means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide group(s), preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups; in particular, the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.
[0043] The term “carbodiimide group” means a divalent linear triatomic fraction of general formula - (N=C=N) -.
[0044] The (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups other than carbodiimide groups, selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0045] The reactive group(s) other than the carbodiimide groups may be pendant or terminal. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise one or more terminal groups other than carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more terminal groups selected from the following: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0046] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): OO 1 ril Ri .XL —A——A4—N'" ''Xo— H l KH '
[0047] in which:
[0048] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0049] - Ri and R2 independently represent a grouping chosen from a radical hydrocarbon, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and by one or more groups selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehyde alkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl,acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxides such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane; ,
[0050] - n denotes an integer from 1 to 1000; and
[0051] - A is a monomer selected from the compounds below:
[0052] According to another embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (!'): (D
[0053] in which:
[0054] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0055] - Yiet Y2 represent, independently, a divalent organic radical chosen from a saturated aliphatic group in C36 at Ci or an aromatic or alkylaromatic group in C6 to C24, the aliphatic or aromatic group optionally comprising one or more non-pending heteroatoms, such as nitrogen atom, oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or combinations thereof;
[0056] - Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group or a group inert terminal;
[0057] - as an inert terminal group, Zi and Z2 can represent, independently, a saturated aliphatic group, linear or branched or cyclic, in the C1 to C50 range, or an aromatic group in the C6 to C8 range, said aliphatic and aromatic groups optionally comprising from 1 to 10 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and their combinations, and the aliphatic or aromatic group may be partially or totally fluorinated; in this variant, Zi and Z2 comprise a CG linking group connecting Zi to Yi and Z2 to Y2, the CG group being a single covalent bond, a saturated C-C bond, an unsaturated covalent C-C bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group;
[0058] - as a reactive terminal group, Zi and Z2 can be chosen from the alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide groups such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane;
[0059] - Q represents an organopolymer or an organo-oligomer comprising units repetitive saturated aliphatic groups, linear or branched or cyclic, or aromatic groups or alkylaromatic groups, coupled by repetitive carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea bonds or their combinations;
[0060] - A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or linear, saturated, branched or cyclic having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally including one or more non-pending heteroatoms, such as nitrogen atom, oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or combinations thereof, in the aliphatic chain or aromatic chain;
[0061] - r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0062] - m denotes an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0063] - m' designates an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0064] - n denotes an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1, with m+ (m'*n ) > 2.
[0065] Preferably, Zi and Z2 independently represent a reactive terminal group; more preferably, Zi and Z2 independently represent a group selected from among the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalk ylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane.
[0066] Such (poly)carbodiimide compounds are marketed for example by the company Stahl BV, under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLinklO., under the name Picassian XL and Nisshinbo compounds marketed under the name CARBODILITE with the series V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW-12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V-05.
[0067] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II):
[0068] in which:
[0069] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0070] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0071] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes a integer ranging from 1 to 3;
[0072] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in Cr Cig, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
[0073] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0074] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-,
[0075] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0076] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0077] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0078] The term “hydrocarbon radical” means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.
[0079] The hydrocarbon radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.
[0080] The hydrocarbon radical can be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and / or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or cationic group(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic group(s), and / or comprising a metal ion which can be incorporated in the form of a salt.
[0081] The term "heteroatom(s)" means an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or a nitrogen atom N, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from among the oxygen atoms O, sulfur atoms S or nitrogen atoms N.
[0082] Preferably, Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.
[0083] Preferably, Ri and R2 are chosen independently from dialkylaminoalcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] According to a preferred embodiment, Ri and R2 are chosen independently from the following groupings (i) to (iv):
[0085] (i) the compound of the following formula (III):
[0086] R7-OC(O)-C(R8)(H)-(III),
[0087] wherein R7 represents a Ci-C3 alkyl group, and R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C3 alkyl group, preferably R7 is a methyl and R8 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0088] (ii) the compound of the following formula (IV):
[0089] R9-[0-CH2-C(H)(Rio)]p-(IV),
[0090] wherein R9 represents a CrC4 alkyl group, Rio represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group and p denotes an integer from 1 to 3; preferably, R9 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0091] (iii) the compound of the following formula (V):
[0092] (Rh)2N-CH2-C(H)(Ri2)- (V),
[0093] wherein Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group and Rn represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; preferably Ru is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and Rn is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0094] (iv) the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0095] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0096] in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; preferably Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0097] Preferably, Ri and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0098] According to an alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are different and one of the radicals Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.
[0099] Preferably, in formula (IV), R9 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0100] Preferably, in formula (VI), Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and RM is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0101] According to another alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0102] Preferably, n denotes an integer from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0103] Preferably, z denotes an integer from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0104] Preferably, w is equal to 1.
[0105] Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer from 4 to 10.
[0106] Preferably, Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in Ci -Ci8 such as methylene, ethylene, and propylene, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C3-C[2] heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene, and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] For example, Li can be selected from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethyl ylene diisocyanate, 1,12-diisocyanate dodecane, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.
[0108] Preferably, Li is selected from a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, or a C6-C14 arylene group and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of the following formula (VII):
[0109] Preferably, L1 is the 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the following formula (VIII):
[0110] According to another embodiment, when L1 is an arylene group at C6-Ci4, Li is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX): (IX).
[0111] As stated previously, E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0112] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0113] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0114] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); and
[0115] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0116] Preferably, R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a C6-C14 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof.
[0117] More preferably, R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0118] Preferably, when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Preferably, R6 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-C[2] cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0120] Preferably, E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0121] More preferably, E represents a -O-R3-O- group in which R3 represents a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0122] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of the following formula (X): (X),
[0123]
[0124]
[0125]
[0126]
[0127]
[0128]
[0129]
[0130]
[0131]
[0132]
[0133] in which R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and, n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 100. In this embodiment, the term "alkyl group" is as defined previously. In this embodiment, the term "cycloalkyl group" is as defined previously. In this embodiment, n can denote an integer from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10. According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XI): (XI), in which R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. The "alkyl group", the "cycloalkyl group" and the "aryl group" are as defined previously. According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (I) or formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 are chosen independently from dialkylaminoalcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably from monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferably, the compound of formula (VI) as previously described in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0134] - n and z, when present, denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n +z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0135] - Lb, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-C12, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof, preferably a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5;
[0136] - A, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof, preferably a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5;
[0137] - E, when present, independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0138] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0139] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0140] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5, when present, is chosen including a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0141] - R6, when present, is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0142] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0143] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0144] - Ri and R2 are chosen independently from among the dialkylaminoalcohols, the alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
[0145] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0146] - Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical at C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group at C3-Ci2, or an arylene group at C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof;
[0147] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0148] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0149] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0150] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0151] -R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0152] More preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0153] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0154] - Ri and R2, are independently of (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;
[0155] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0156] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical;
[0157] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0158] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0159] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0160] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0161] -R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0162] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodihnide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0163] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0164] - Ri and R2, independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0165] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0166] wherein R13 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0167] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0168] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, the cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0169] - E represents a grouping -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a radical arylene in C6-Ci4, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0171] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0172] - Ri and R2, independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0173] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI)
[0174] wherein R13 represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4] represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0175] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0176] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, the cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0177] - E represents a group- -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a radical linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0178] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound with the following formula (XII): (XII),
[0179] in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 represents a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer from 4 to 30.
[0180] Advantageously, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as defined above are present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0181] Pigment functionalized by an additive of formula (I)
[0182] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one pigment functionalized by an additive of formula (I). Pigment
[0183] The term "pigment" means all pigments that impart color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
[0184] The pigments that can be used are chosen in particular from among the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0185] They may be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0186] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste.
[0187] The pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, the organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and their mixtures.
[0188] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide.
[0189] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment.
[0190] The organic pigment may in particular be selected from the following compounds: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0191] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0192] By way of example, one can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
[0193] - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);
[0194] - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);
[0195] - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);
[0196] - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);
[0197] - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);
[0198] - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);
[0199] - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);
[0200] - COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);
[0201] - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0202] The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.
[0203] The organic pigment can also be a lake. By lake, we mean colorants adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0204] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0205] Among the colorants, we can mention carminic acid. We can also mention the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0206] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0207] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment. Special effects pigments are defined as pigments that generally create a non-uniform and changing colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy, and clarity) depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinct from colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or conventionally transparent tint.
[0208] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.
[0209] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica and iron oxides, iron oxide-coated mica, titanium-coated mica, particularly ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium-coated mica and an organic pigment as defined above, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. As examples of pearlescent pigments, we can mention Cellini pearls marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lake), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0210] We can also mention gold-colored mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver, and orange-pink-green-gold mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian Summer (Xirona), and their mixtures.
[0211] As further examples of nacres, we can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0212] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0213] Finally, as examples of mother-of-pearl, polyethylene terephthalate flakes can also be cited, particularly those marketed by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates can also be considered. such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0214] Special effect pigments may also be selected from reflective particles, that is to say, particles whose size, structure, including the thickness of the layer(s) that constitute them and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create, on the surface of the composition or mixture, when applied to the makeup support, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say, brighter points that contrast with their surroundings by appearing to shine.
[0215] Reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may, in particular, have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0216] These particles can have various shapes, including being platelet-shaped or globular, particularly spherical.
[0217] Reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0218] When reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0219] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated by at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.
[0220] More specifically, it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being exhaustive.
[0221] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0222] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0223] As further examples of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, one can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0224] Silver-coated glass substrate particles in the form of wafers are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate particles are sold under the names CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0225] Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium may also be used, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0226] An example can be cited as aluminium, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0227] Other examples include non-substrate interference pigments such as liquid crystals (Wacker's Helicones HC) and interference holographic glitter (Spectratek's Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether daylight fluorescent or ultraviolet fluorescent, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots, marketed, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0228] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic, interference effects.
[0229] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 µm.
[0230] Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0231] Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from iron oxides, in particular red, brown, or black. An example of an iron oxide is the iron oxide sold by Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide.
[0232] Advantageously, the pigment(s) functionalized by at least one additive of formula (I) is / are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, of preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Formula additive (I)
[0233] The pigment(s) used in composition C is / are functionalized by at least one additive of formula (I).
[0234] Thus, according to the process of the invention, composition C comprises at least one additive of formula (I) as defined below:
[0235] in which:
[0236] - n is equal to 1 or 2,
[0237] - M represents H or a cation,
[0238] - m is equal to 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation,
[0239] - R represents:
[0240] * a group G selected from a saccharide, a -[CH2-CHRrO]q-R2 group and a group -[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]q-R2 where:
[0241] - q represents an integer from 1 to 1000,
[0242] - for each CH2-CHRrO unit, Ri independently represents H or a methyl group,
[0243] - R2 represents H or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or
[0244] * a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted by one or more G groups, phosphate (of formula OPO3(M)2 / m) and / or hydroxyl (OH).
[0245] The group -[CH2-CHRrO]q-R2 with Ri represents H, corresponding to polyethylene glycol (PEG). The group -[CH2-CHRi-O]q-R2 with Ri represents a methyl group, corresponding to polypropylene glycol (PPG). The group -[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]qR' corresponds to polyglycerol.
[0246] Typically, q is an integer from 1 to 500, in particular from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 60.
[0247] Preferably, n is equal to 2 and the additive has the following formula (!'): P (M) O—F-GR ' LO(M)}
[0248] in which M, m and R are as defined above.
[0249]
[0250]
[0251]
[0252]
[0253]
[0254]
[0255]
[0256]
[0257] M can notably be an inorganic cation, such as Ag3+' Al3+, Fe3+, Fe2+, Ag2+, Zn2+, Sn2+, Ca2+, Ba2+, Ag+, Na+ or an organic cation, such as a diethanolammonium (DEA) (H3N+-(CH2)2-OH) or a quaternary ammonium. The following additives of formula (II), (III) or (IV) are particularly suitable for implementing the invention: CH., GO) ' * V y ï HQ4CHgGHrO)— H04CH;>CHrO)~"' CHÇ in which M, m and q are as defined above, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n is equal to 2 and R represents an isopropyl hydrocarbon chain in which each of the carbon atoms is substituted by a group G which represents -[CH2-CHRrO]q-R2 where Ri and R2 represent H), □(Mi HO-CHrCH^CHrO -P^q " * I * I OH in which M and m are as defined above, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n is equal to 2, R represents a group G of formula -[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]q-R2 where q represents 1 and R2 represents H), CH, 0(M) î, !• * ? in which M and m are as defined above and q1 and q" independently represent an integer from 0 to 1000, generally from 0 to 500, especially from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 60, such that the sum of q1 and q" is an integer between 1 and 1000, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n is equal to 2, R represents a group G of formula -[CH2-CHRrO]q-R2 where q represents the sum of q1 and q" and, for the first q" units, Ri represents a methyl and for the last q1 units, Ri represents H, and R2 represents H). The following additives of formula (V) and (VI) are also suitable for implementing the invention: M) 0.PÇ Z^„„ .. V - s™ (M)
[0258] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n is equal to 2, R represents a cyclohexyl hydrocarbon chain substituted at positions 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 by a phosphate group of formula OPO3H2),
[0259]
[0260]
[0261]
[0262]
[0263]
[0264]
[0265]
[0266] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n is equal to 2, R represents a methyl hydrocarbon chain linked to a glucose G group), in which M and m are as defined above. Preferably, the additives used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - glycereth-26 phosphate, with the following formula (II'): HO <HgCH 3»-^ OH HO(CHgCH C HCHCHXH C ÔH ■ ■ ' m, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (II) in which M represents H and m is equal to 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially, for example from Croda®, - sodium alpha glycerophosphate, with the following formula (III'): ÇW DH ONa which corresponds to an additive of formula (III) in which M represents Na and m is equal to 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially, for example from Dr Paul Lohman®, - sodium beta glycerophosphate, with the following formula (I”): O O~P~ONa (i”), ONa
[0267]
[0268]
[0269]
[0270]
[0271]
[0272]
[0273]
[0274] (which corresponds to an additive of formula (!') in which M represents Na, m is equal to 1 and R represents the -CH(CH2OH)2 group), this additive being advantageously available commercially. - PEG-26 PPG-30 diethanolammonium phosphate of the following formula (IV'): ^0« (IV') HO— CH.S \ OH (which corresponds to an additive of formula (IV) in which M represents a diethanolammonium cation and m is equal to 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially, for example from Innospec®, - phytic acid with the following formula (V'): h a H. (which corresponds to an additive of formula (V) in which M represents H and m is equal to 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially, for example from Nutriscience®, - glucose phosphate, with the following formula (VI'): ho-Ta HO; Oh ] GH (which corresponds to an additive of formula (VI) in which M represents H and m is equal to 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially. More preferably, the additive of formula (I) used in composition C is a glycerophosphate, such as a sodium glycerophosphate.
[0275] Thus, in a particularly preferred manner, the pigment used in composition C is functionalized by a glycerophosphate, such as a sodium glycerophosphate.
[0276] Advantageously, sodium glycerophosphate is selected from sodium alpha glycerophosphate, sodium beta glycerophosphate, and mixtures thereof.
[0277] Advantageously, the additive of formula (I) is present in composition C in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0278] Advantageously, the pigment(s) functionalized by the additive of formula (I) are in powder form in which the weight ratio of additive of formula (I) / bare pigment ranges from 0.001 to 20, preferably from 0.001 to 10, more preferably from 0.005 to 1, even more preferably from 0.005 to 0.1, better from 0.005 to 0.05.
[0279] For the purposes of this invention, "bare pigment" means a non-functionalized pigment.
[0280] Polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids
[0281] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer.
[0282] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) are in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles, more preferably in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
[0283] Thus, preferably, composition C comprises at least one acrylic polymer in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles.
[0284] The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. Latexes are a particular example of a dispersion.
[0285] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound consisting of the repetition of one or more motifs (these motifs being derived from compounds called monomers). This motif or these motifs are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.
[0286] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a substrate, in particular on hair, and preferably a cohesive film
[0287] For the purposes of this invention, "acrylic polymer" means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer selected from (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide.
[0288] The motif(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may (may) possibly be in the form of salt(s), in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base.
[0289] Esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates) are advantageously chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular alkyl in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, better in C1 to Cm, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular aryl in C6 to C10, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular hydroxyalkyl in C2 to C6.
[0290] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl-2 hexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.
[0291] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0292] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate can be cited.
[0293] The particularly preferred (meth)acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably alkyl in C1 to C30, more preferably in C1 to C20, even better in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0294] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
[0295] Examples of (meth)acrylic acid amides include (meth)acrylamides, as well as N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, particularly alkyl in C2 to C12. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, examples include N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
[0296] The acrylic polymer according to the invention can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, even better a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (meth)acrylic acid esters.
[0297] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more motifs derived from the following monomers:
[0298] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0299] b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C1 to C30, more preferably in C1 to C20, even better in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0300] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not include a surfactant. The term "surfactant" means any agent capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces.
[0301] Among the acrylic polymers according to the invention, we can mention the copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name LUVIMER MAE by BASF, or the Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer compound sold under the trade name FIXATE SUPERHOLD POLYMER by LUBRIZOL, or the Acrylate Copolymer compound sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000VP3 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO, or the Acrylate Copolymer compound sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO.
[0302] The acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomers.
[0303] As an additional monomer, examples include styrenic monomers, in particular styrene and alpha-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.
[0304] In particular, the acrylic polymer may be a styrene / (meth)acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer selected from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer in Ci to C20, preferably in Ci to Ci0.
[0305] The alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer in C1 to C10 can be selected from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate.
[0306] As an acrylic polymer, we can cite the styrene / (meth)acrylate(s) copolymers marketed under the name JONCRYL 77 by BASF, under the name YODOSOL GH41F by AKZO NOBEL and under the name SYNTRAN 5760 CG by INTERPOLYMER.
[0307] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles. More preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more motifs derived from the following monomers:
[0308] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0309] b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, more preferably in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0310] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has an acrylic polymer(s) (or active material, or dry matter) content on the basis of the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 22 to 55% by weight and even better of 25 to 50% by weight.
[0311] Advantageously, the total content of the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0312] Advantageously, the total content of the acrylic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0313] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particle(s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Associative polymers
[0314] The composition C used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one associative polymer different from the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above.
[0315] As mentioned above, "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0316] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0317] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a hydrocarbon chain radical or polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0318] The associative polymers may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric. Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from among the anionic associative polymers.
[0319] Among the associative anionic polymers, we can cite copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0320] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic carboxylic acid and Ci-C4 alcohol.
[0321] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylened stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by ROHM and HAAS.
[0322] Preferably, the associative polymer(s), different from polymers comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids previously described, are selected from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0323] Advantageously, the total content of the associative polymer(s) other than the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above shall be from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Direct colorant
[0324] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may include one or more direct dye(s).
[0325] By "direct dye," we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic, for example cationic or anionic, or non-ionic.
[0326] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
[0327] Direct dyes can be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkaline substances. Anionic direct dyes are understood to mean any direct dye containing in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R denotes a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic dyes may be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, and acidic natural dyes.
[0328] A titre d’exemple de colorants acides on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;
[0329] A titre d’exemple de colorants azo anioniques pyrazolones on peut citer : Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76Acid Yellow 17 ;
[0330] As an example of anthraquinone dyes, we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT purple No. 2;: Acid Black 48;
[0331] Examples of nitro dyes include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of dyes of formula (XXII') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethanesulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0332] Examples of triarylmethane dyes include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0333] Examples of xanthenic dyes include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9.
[0334] As an example of indole dyes, we can cite: Acid Blue 74;
[0335] Examples of quinoline dyes include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0336] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, Purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins can be used. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes can also be used, particularly poultices or extracts based on henna.
[0337] The direct colorant(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Organic solvents
[0338] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0339] Examples of organic solvents include lower C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols, in particular aromatic monoalcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0340] Organic solvents may be present in a total content of between 10 and 80% by weight, preferably between 25 and 70% by weight and more preferably between 35 and 65% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0341] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may be aqueous. The water content may range from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Additives
[0342] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0343] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, we can mention reducing agents, softeners, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers previously described, preservatives, amino and / or non-amino silicones, oils, waxes other than silicones in wax form, and mixtures thereof.
[0344] The composition C used in the process according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / E or polyol / H / E or H / E / H), in the form of cream, foam, stick, vesicle dispersion, including ionic or non-ionic lipids, biphasic or multiphase lotion.
[0345] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate pharmaceutical form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of their general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition.
[0346] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C. Application of composition D
[0347] The hair coloring process according to the invention may further include the application to the hair of a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent.
[0348] Preferably, the acidifying agent is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.
[0349] Advantageously, composition D has a pH ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 1.5 to 5, more preferably from 2 to 4.
[0350] According to a preferred embodiment, composition C and optional composition D are applied simultaneously to the hair.
[0351] According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair after the application of composition C to the hair.
[0352] According to yet another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair before the application of composition C to the hair.
[0353] According to a particularly preferred method, composition D is applied to the hair after the application of composition C to the hair. Process
[0354] Composition C and optional composition D described above can be used on dry or wet hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0355] According to a preferred embodiment, composition C and optional composition D are applied simultaneously to the hair.
[0356] According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair after the application of composition C to the hair.
[0357] According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair before the application of composition C to the hair.
[0358] More preferably, composition D is applied to the hair after the application of composition C to the hair.
[0359] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hair is rinsed and washed with shampoo before application of composition C and composition D.
[0360] Preferably, a rinsing, wringing and / or drying step is implemented after the application of composition C and before the application of any composition D to the hair.
[0361] More preferably, a drying step is implemented after the application of composition C to the hair and before the application of any composition D to the hair.
[0362] Application to the hair can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge or the fingers.
[0363] The application of composition C and optional composition D to the hair is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0364] After application of composition C to the hair, one can wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before for example the application of composition D to the hair or for example a drying step.
[0365] Preferably, there is no waiting time after the application of composition C to the hair and before the application of any composition D to the hair.
[0366] After the application of composition C and optional composition D, the hair may be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature of 30 °C or higher.
[0367] The process according to the invention can thus include a step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool.
[0368] The heat application step of the process of the invention can be carried out using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon, etc. Preferably, the heat application step of the process of the invention is carried out using a hair dryer.
[0369] When the process of the invention implements a step of applying heat to the hair, the step of applying heat to the hair takes place after the application of composition C and optional composition D to the hair.
[0370] During the heat application step on the hair, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing with fingers.
[0371] When the step of applying heat to the hair is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.
[0372] Preferably, if the hair is dried, it is dried not only with heat but also with an airflow. This airflow during drying helps to improve the individualization of the coating.
[0373] Preferably, the invention is a hair coloring process comprising the following steps:
[0374] i) the application to the hair of at least one composition C as described above; then
[0375] ii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying said hair; then
[0376] iii) optionally the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as described above; then
[0377] iv) optionally a processing time of said composition D on the hair of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably 1 minute to 20 minutes; then
[0378] v) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying the hair.
[0379] Preferably, composition C further comprises at least one associative polymer as described above, different from the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids as defined above.
[0380] Advantageously, the process according to the invention is a process which consists of mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a hair coloring composition C and applying composition C to the hair, with:
[0381] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such that defined previously;
[0382] - composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from among the carboxylic acids as defined previously,
[0383] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one pigment functionalized by at least one additive of formula (I) as defined above.
[0384] More preferably, the coloring process according to the invention is a process which consists of mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a hair coloring composition C and applying the hair coloring composition C to the hair, with:
[0385] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such that defined previously;
[0386] - composition B comprising at least one pigment functionalized by at least an additive of formula (I) as defined above, and at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above.
[0387] According to a preferred embodiment, the coloring process according to the invention is a hair coloring process comprising:
[0388] i) a step consisting of extemporaneously mixing at least two compositions A and B at the time of use to obtain a composition C and applying composition C to the hair, with:
[0389] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such that defined previously;
[0390] - composition B comprising at least one pigment functionalized by at least an additive of formula (I) as defined above, and at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above; then
[0391] (ii) optionally, a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying said hair; then
[0392] (iii) the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as described above; then
[0393] (iv) optionally a processing time of said composition D on the hair of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes; then
[0394] (v) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and / or drying step hair.
[0395] Preferably, the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids is selected from acrylic polymers.
[0396] Preferably, composition A does not include a pigment functionalized by an additive of formula (I) as defined above.
[0397] According to this embodiment, compositions A and B are mixed preferably less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, better less than 5 minutes before application.
[0398] The weight ratio between composition A and composition B is preferably from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, better from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.
[0399] The total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0400] The total quantity of the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids is preferably from 0.2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, better still from 1 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0401] According to a particular embodiment, composition B comprises at least one associative polymer as defined above.
[0402] The total content of the associative polymer(s) preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B. Multi-compartment device (kit)
[0403] The present invention also relates to a hair coloring device comprising several compartments containing:
[0404] * in a first compartment, a composition C comprising:
[0405] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above;
[0406] - at least one pigment functionalized by an additive of formula (I) as defined previously; and
[0407] - at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above;
[0408] * optionally in a second compartment, a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as defined previously.
[0409] More preferably, the hair coloring device comprising several compartments contains:
[0410] * in a first compartment, a composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above;
[0411] * in a second compartment, a composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above,
[0412] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one pigment functionalized by at least one additive of formula (I) as defined above;
[0413] * optionally in a third compartment, a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as defined previously.
[0414] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples allow for the support of specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0415] The (poly)carbodümide(s) of the invention are accessible by synthetic methods known to those skilled in the art, from commercial products or from reagents synthesizable according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. Examples include the book *Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations*, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or US patent 4,284,730 or Canadian application CA 2,509,861.
[0416] More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses in a first step a diisocyanate reagent (1): O=C=N-LrN=C=O (1),
[0417] formula (1) wherein Li is as defined previously which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4,284,730, in particular phosphorus catalysts especially chosen from phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza and oxazaphospholanes, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a polar solvent preferably aprotic such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between room temperature and solvent reflux, preferably around 140 °C; to give the carbodiimide diisocyanate compound (3): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)nN=C=O (3),
[0418] formula (3) in which Li and n are as defined previously. Benzoyl halogen such as benzoyl chloride may be added to deactivate the catalyst.
[0419] To obtain “symmetrical” (poly)carbodiimides, in the second step of the preparation process, the compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined above, to give rise to the “symmetrical” compound according to the invention (4): [R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)]2-E (4),
[0420] formula (4) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are as defined previously. According to a variant for obtaining compound (4) from (3) it is possible to add first 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent, then 1 eq. of Ri-XrH reagent.
[0421] To obtain "asymmetric" (poly)carbodiimides, in the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent RrXi-H and then 1 eq of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined above, to give compound (5):
[0422] R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EH (5),
[0423] formula (5) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are such as defined previously.
[0424] According to one variant for obtaining compound (5) from (3) it is possible to add first 1 eq. of reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of reagent HEH.
[0425] In a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6) R2-X2-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3'):
[0426] O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)ZN=C=O (3'),
[0427] formula (3') in which Li and z are as defined previously which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H with Lb R2, X2, and z as defined previously, to give rise to the asymmetric compound (7):
[0428] R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z-NH- C(O)-X2-R2 (7),
[0429] Formula (7) in which Rb Xb Lb R2, X2, n, z and E are as defined previously.
[0430] It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=N-Lr (N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3') with 1 / w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H to lead to compound (8):
[0431] H-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH-C(O)-X2-R2 (8),
[0432] formula (8) in which Lb R2, X2, z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer from 1 to 3, more preferably w = 1.
[0433] This last compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'):
[0434] Ri-Xi-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)nN=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') can be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to lead to the (poly)carbodihnide of the invention (9):
[0435] R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH C(O)-X2-R2 (9),
[0436] formula (9) in which Lb Rb Xb R2, X2, n, z, w, and E are such as defined previously.
[0437] (Poly)carbodiimide compounds, as well as all reaction intermediates and reactants, can be purified with conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and / or chromatography.
[0438] Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the (poly)carbodiimide compound
[0439] In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-l-phenyl-lH-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced under stirring.
[0440] The reaction medium was heated to 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, following the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm⁻¹, then cooled to 120°C.
[0441] A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium while stirring. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the complete disappearance of the isocyanate groups, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm⁻¹, and then cooled to room temperature.
[0442] After cooling to room temperature, the reaction mixture is poured dropwise under vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85g of distilled water to produce the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid. Example 2
[0443] Compositions A and B1 to B4 as described below in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared: quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g, unless otherwise stated.
[0444] [Tables 1] Composition A Polycarbodiimide (1) 17.5 Ethanol 82.5
[0445] (1) synthesized according to the synthesis process described in Example 1 (at 40% of material active in water),
[0446] [Tables2] Composition B1 B2 B3 B4 Acrylates copolymer (2) 29.2 29.2 29.2 29.2 Red iron oxide (CI 77491) (and) Sodium glycerophosphate (3) 12.0 - - - Red iron oxide (CI 77491) - 12.0 - - Black iron oxide (CI 77499) (and) Sodium glycerophosphate (4) - - 12.0 - Black iron oxide (CI 77499) - - - 12.0 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-1 0 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 Divinyldimethicone / Dimethicone c opolymer (and) C12-13 Pareth-3 (and) C12-13 Pareth-23 (5) 10.2 10.2 10.2 10.2 Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate copolymer (6) 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 Ethanol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Pentylene glycol 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.2-Hexanediol 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Preservatives 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
[0447] (2) sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient)
[0448] (3) sold by the company SENSIENT BEAUTY under the trade name UNIPURE RED LC 381 SGP
[0449] (4) sold by SENSIENT BEAUTY under the trade name UNIPURE BLACK LC 989 SGP
[0450] (5) sold by the DOW CORNING company under the name DOW CORNING HMW 2220 NON-IONIC EMULSION (Divinyldimethicone / dimethicone block copolymer in aqueous emulsion) (60% active ingredient)
[0451] (6) sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the trade name ACULYN 22® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer with 30% active ingredient)
[0452] Composition A was then mixed with compositions B1 to B4 at a mass ratio of 50 / 50 to obtain compositions Cl to C4 respectively.
[0453] Then, composition D as described below in Table 3 was prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0454] [Tables3] Composition: Water q.s. 100, Citric acid q.s., pH = 2.5 Evaluation of shampoo persistence protocol
[0455] Four application methods were used.
[0456] According to processes 1 to 4, compositions Cl to C4 respectively, were first applied with a mascara brush to the entire length of dry hair strands 90% natural white fibers were used, at a concentration of 0.8 g of the composition per gram of hair strand. The hair strands were then left to air dry for 10 to 20 minutes. Finally, the hair strands were blow-dried.
[0457] Composition D was then applied with the fingers to the strands previously colored with compositions Cl to C4, at a rate of 0.5 g of composition per gram of strand. The hair strands were then detangled and dried with a hairdryer.
[0458] Processes 1 and 3 are processes according to the invention. Hereafter, they are referred to as processes PI and P3, respectively.
[0459] Processes 2 and 4 are comparative processes. In the following, they are referred to as processes P2 and P4, respectively.
[0460] The processes applied are summarized in Table 4 below:
[0461] [Tables4] Processes PI (invention) P2 (comparative) P3 (invention) P4 (comparative) Application of compositions Cl +D C2 + D C3 + D C4 + D
[0462] The different strands of hair treated by the PI to P4 processes were then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the color obtained with the shampoos, according to the shampoo protocol described below. Shampoo Protocol#:
[0463] The colored hair strands are combed, moistened under water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times for 5 seconds. The hair strands are then squeezed dry between two fingers.
[0464] A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) is applied evenly to the colored strands at a rate of 0.4g of standard shampoo per gram of strands, gently massaging the strands of hair along their length (6 passes) for 15 seconds, from root to tip.
[0465] The strands of hair are then placed in a watch glass and left to rest for 1 minute.
[0466] Next, the hair strands are rinsed with water by passing the strand between the fingers (15 passes). The hair strands are then squeezed dry between two fingers before the next shampoo.
[0467] Once the tests of several shampoos have been carried out, the strands of hair are combed and blow-dried. Results
[0468] The persistence of the color of the highlights was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Konica Minolta CM3600A spectrophotometer (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0469] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0470] The permanence of the color is evaluated by the color difference AE between measurements taken on colored strands before shampooing and after undergoing the shampooing protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more the color remains after shampooing.
[0471] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation:
[0473] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after hair coloring and after five shampoos, and Lo*, a0* and b0* represent the values measured after hair coloring but before shampooing.
[0474] The results are summarized in Table 5 below.
[0475] [Tables5] After coloring After 5 shampoos AE Processes Lo* a0* bo* L* a* b* PI (invention) 33.6 28.4 20.8 39.6 22.3 16.7 9.5 P2 (comparative) 34.8 25.9 19.4 44.9 18.7 14.9 13.2 P3 (invention) 21.0 0.3 1.35 31.9 0.5 3.6 11.1 P4 (comparative) 21.1 0.462 0.6 37.2 -0.03 3.0 16.3
[0476] Hair strands treated with the PI process according to the invention exhibit improved shampoo retention compared to hair strands treated with the comparative P2 process.
[0477] Similarly, the hair strands treated with the P3 process according to the invention exhibit improved shampoo retention compared to the hair strands treated with the comparative P4 process.
[0478] Pigment dispersion in the colorant composition
[0479] The dye compositions Cl and C2 used respectively in the PI processes according to the invention and comparative P2 were observed under an optical microscope. The corresponding microscopic images are shown in Figures 1 ([Fig.1]) and 2 ([Fig.2]) attached.
[0480] The colour composition C2, used in the comparative process P2 (see [Fig.1]), has larger and more numerous clusters of pigments than the composition Cl, used in the process PI according to the invention (see [Fig.2]).
[0481] Thus, the colour composition Cl, used in the PI process according to the invention, exhibits an improved dispersion of pigments compared to the colour composition C2, used in the comparative P2 process.
Claims
1. Demands Hair coloring process comprising the application to the hair of at least one coloring composition C comprising: (1) at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound; (2) at least one pigment functionalized by at least one additive of the following formula (I):
2. in which: - n is equal to 1 or 2, - M represents H or a cation, - m is equal to 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation, - R represents: * a G group chosen from a saccharide, a -[CH2-CHRr] group O]q-R2 and a group -[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]q-R2 where: q represents an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, For each CH2-CHR1-O unit, Ri independently represents either H or a methyl group. R2 represents H or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or * a hydrocarbon chain comprising 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted by one or more G groups, phosphate (of formula OPO3(M)2 / m) and / or hydroxyl (OH); and (3) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids. A process according to claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): O o ® Â ri I R^Xr' A—A3— R, H l H * ' in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - Ri and R2 independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group chosen from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and by one or more groups chosen from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl,hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehyde alkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxides such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and - A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
3. A process according to claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II): in which - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer from 1 to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in Ci-Ci8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-C15, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-C12, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-, in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms.
4. A process according to claim 3, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are selected from compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 are selected independently from dialkylaminoalcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w equals 1; - L1 is selected from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C1-C18, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a grouping chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;in which R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
5. A process according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is / are selected from compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical; - E independently represents a group selected from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;- when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
6. A method according to any one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI): R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and - E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
7. A process according to any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are selected from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI): R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R[3 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl group, Ru represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane;and - E represents a group- -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).;
8. A process according to any one of claims 3 to 7, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are selected from the compounds of the following formula (XII): û . A ,N"": ' ' û xA o SV-N'' OJ / ? H < / S • (XII), in which Li is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a -O-R3-O- group in which R3 represents a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer from 4 to 30.
9. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
10. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of the pigment(s) functionalized by at least one additive of formula (I) ranges from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
11. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additive of formula (I) is a glycerophosphate, such as a sodium glycerophosphate.
12. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additive of formula (I) is present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
13. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids is an acrylic polymer.
14. A process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the acrylic polymer(s) comprise one or more motifs derived from the following monomers: a) (meth)acrylic acid; and b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, more preferably in C1 to C10, and even more preferably in C1 to C4.
15. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, preferably acrylic polymers, are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises the application to the hair of a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.
17. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and to apply composition C to the hair, with: - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 2 to 8; - composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids as defined in any one of claims 1 and 13 to 14, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one pigment functionalized by at least one additive of formula (I) as defined in claim 1 or 11.
18. A hair coloring device comprising several compartments containing: * in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 2 to 8, * in a second compartment, a composition B comprising: at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids as defined in any one of claims 1 and 13 to 14, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one pigment functionalized by at least one additive of formula (I) as defined in claim 1 or 11; * optionally in a third compartment, a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as defined in claim 16.
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