Composition comprising a UV filter, a superabsorbent polymer, a fatty acid ester and an anionic surfactant

Abstract

Composition comprising a UV filter, a superabsorbent polymer, a fatty acid ester, and an anionic surfactant. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - At least one UV filter, - At least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, - At least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester and a C2-C24 polyol ester, and - At least one carboxylic anionic surfactant or carboxylate selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a UV filter, a superabsorbent polymer, a fatty acid ester and an anionic surfactant

[0001] The present invention relates to a stable photoprotective composition which has good sensory appeal upon application (i.e. it is light and non-greasy upon application).

[0002] The present invention relates more particularly to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer, at least one ester of fatty acid in C2-C24 and of polyol in C2-C24, and at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from amino acids modified by at least one hydrocarbon chain in C8-C30 and their salts, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, treatment of keratinous materials, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

[0003] As a protective barrier and exchange point with the environment, the skin is both resistant and fragile; it can lose its suppleness and its ability to retain water decreases, causing dry skin.

[0004] It is important to ensure sufficient hydration of the skin to preserve its suppleness, softness, tone, and / or appearance. To combat the signs of skin dehydration, it is known to apply cosmetic compositions that promote hydration to the areas of application.

[0005] Furthermore, we are increasingly exposed to the sun. It is therefore necessary to protect the skin on a daily basis.

[0006] To date, a wide variety of photoprotective compositions are already known to protect keratinous materials, and more specifically the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UV radiation (UVA and / or UVB). Essentially, they contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV filters, delivered in an oily and / or aqueous phase as an active anti-UV agent, and are generally offered in an emulsion or gel formulation.

[0007] Thus, formulations containing organic or inorganic UV filters generally present uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects that mask the freshness and comfort of the formulas. In particular, the weak point of photoprotective formulations is often a significant greasy feeling, resulting in a lack of lightness in the textures obtained, as well as a sticky feeling upon application.

[0008] Furthermore, the introduction of UV filters generally causes destabilization problems. This instability can sometimes even lead to phase separation of the emulsion and / or a loss of viscosity of the composition, rendering the formulation ineffective or even unusable.

[0009] Consequently, there is a need for a photoprotective composition, particularly for daily use, that is stable and homogeneous, i.e. not subject to demixing phenomena, and that does not present a greasy or sticky finish on the skin, and has a pleasant sensory experience.

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that this objective can be achieved by combining a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and a specific emulsifying system in a composition comprising a UV filter, resulting in a stable photoprotective composition that offers good sensory appeal upon application. It can be used daily, is easy to apply, and has a non-sticky and non-greasy finish.

[0011] Thus, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - At least one UV filter, - At least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from among starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, - at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester and C2-C24 polyol ester, and - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts.

[0012] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin of the body and / or face.

[0013] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above to hydrate keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face.

[0014] The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, comprising at least the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0015] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting skin darkening and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0016] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for hydrating keratinous materials, preferably the skin of the body and / or face, comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous materials of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0017] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material, preferably the skin of the body and / or face, comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0018] The composition according to the invention exhibits good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically after storage for 24 hours, one week, one month, or two months at room temperature (25°C), 4°C, 37°C, or 45°C. A stable composition generally retains its pleasantness and sensory signature upon application over time. More specifically, the stability of a composition can be assessed qualitatively, for example, by maintaining its smooth and homogeneous appearance, by the absence of phase separation, color change, or release phenomena, or quantitatively by monitoring the evolution of parameters such as viscosity or pH.

[0019] In the context of the invention, the filtering efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of the SPF and the PPD.

[0020] For the purposes of this invention, "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) means the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain a sunburn with a photoprotective composition and that without the product. More specifically, the term "SPF" is defined in the article "A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0021] The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) can be evaluated in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material onto which the solar composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. A specific protocol, presented as an example, is currently undergoing ISO approval under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0022] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO 24444:2019 protocol "Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)".

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, UVAPF means the index characterizing protection against UVA radiation. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, protocol ISO 24442:2022, and measures skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure. UVA protection can also be assessed in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material onto which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. ISO 24443:2021 describes such an in vitro method.

[0024] The term "emulsion" means any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two immiscible phases; one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system, generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0025] A distinction is made between oil-in-water emulsions, known as "direct" emulsions, consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous dispersed oily phase, and water-in-oil emulsions, known as inverse emulsions, consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous dispersed aqueous phase. Multiple emulsions also exist, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

[0026] The compositions according to the invention are direct emulsions.

[0027] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Hereinafter, "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0028] In the context of the present invention, "keratinous material" means in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0029] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0030] Furthermore, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to".

[0031] By "prevent" or "prevention", according to the invention, means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratinous material.

[0032] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows UV filter

[0033] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one UV filter.

[0034] The UV filter can be selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, the UV filter is at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filter.

[0035] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0036] By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.

[0037] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, for example, Miglyol 812® marketed by DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, measured at 70 °C, is defined as the amount of product dissolved in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solids after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0038] By "organic UVA filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule also being able to absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0039] By "organic UVB filter", we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm.

[0040] Organic UV filters are selected in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenyl acrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US patent 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 162 844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE 19 855 649; 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19 746 654, DE 19 755 649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name and / or their chemical name.

[0042] Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold notably under the trade name PARSOL ® MCX by DSM Nutritial Products, Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise, Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold notably under the trade name PARSOL ® 1789 by DSM Nutritial Products,

[0043] Salicylic compounds: Homosalate sold under the name "Parsol® HMS" by DSM Nutritional Products, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN ® OS" by Symrise,

[0044] Compounds [3,[3-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL ® N 539 T" by BASF,

[0045] Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "UVINUL ® M 40" by BASF, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, INCI name Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sold under the trade name "UVINUL® A Plus" or in mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name "UVINUL® A Plus B" by BASF, 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

[0046] Benzylidene camphor compounds: 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX ® 6300" by MERCK, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL ® SX" by NOVEAL,

[0047] Phenyl benzimidazole compounds: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold notably under the trade name "EUSOLEX® 232" by MERCK.

[0048] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN ® AP" by Symrise,

[0049] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "MEXORYL ® XL" by NOVEAL,

[0050] Compounds methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole): Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, notably in solid form as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100 ®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL, or as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of the structure CnH2n+iO(C6HiO5)xH, where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6HiO5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, notably sold under the trade name "TINOSORB ® M" by BASF, or as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size of particles that vary from 0.02 to 2 pm, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm,in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C2o)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009 / 063392, in particular the product marketed under the name "TINOSORB ® WPGL" by BASF,

[0051] Triazine compounds: , - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "TINOSORB ® S" by BASF, and in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by BASF, - Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL ® T 150" by BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB ® HEB" by 3V SIGMA, - Symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups described in US patent 6,225,467, application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by BASF and which is covered in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992, WO 2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

[0052] Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN ® MA" by Symrise.

[0053] Benzalmalonate compounds: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL ® SLX" by DSM Nutritional Products,

[0054] Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-l,3,5-triazine sold under the name "Uvasorb ® K2A" by 3V Sigma, 2-[4-(l,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-l,3-benzoxazole, cas number 904-39-2.

[0055] The preferred organic filters are chosen from: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl Salicylate Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, B enzophenone- 3, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polysilicone-15, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, et leurs mélanges.

[0056] Les filtres organiques particulièrement préférés sont choisis parmi : Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Octocrylene, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine, et leurs mélanges.

[0057] The inorganic UV filters used according to the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm. They are described in particular in Annex VI, updated on 22 / 09 / 2021, of European Cosmetics Regulation No. 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to this list.

[0058] They can in particular be chosen from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

[0059] Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, We can mention the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

[0060] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0061] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts, fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0062] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - hydrated silica such as the product "MT-100WP" from TAYCA, - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from IKEDA, - silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from TAYCA, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from CRODA, - alumina such as the "TTO-55 (A)®" products from ISHIHARA, - alumina and aluminum stearate such as the "MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®" products from TAYCA, the "Solaveil™ CT100" product from CRODA and the "Eusolex T-AVO®" product from MERCK, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the "MT-100AQ®" product from TAYCA, - alumina and aluminum laurate, - iron oxide and iron stearate, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate, - of silica and alumina and treated with silicone such as the products "MTY-500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company TAYCA, - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone, - of silica and treated with silicone, - of alumina and treated with silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the ISHIHARA company, - of triethanolamine, - stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55 (C)®" from ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate, - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane, - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, - TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina, sold under the trade name "Solaveil™ CT-200" by CRODA, - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone, sold under the trade name "Solaveil™ CT-12W" by CRODA, - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, - TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0063] Other examples include TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also include one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester like sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters.One can cite in particular the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRL PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, as the product sold under the trade name "OPTISOL™ OTP-1" by the company CRODA.

[0064] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MT-500B" or "MT-600B®", by the company Evonik under the name "DEGUSSA P 25".

[0065] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: - those marketed under the name "Z-COTE®" by the company BASF; - those marketed under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0066] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane; - CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid); - those marketed under the name and "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent); - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated by silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

[0067] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

[0068] Other examples include mixtures of metal oxides, particularly titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, such as an equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, and a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica, and silicone, or coated with alumina, silica, and glycerin. According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0069] Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of organic UV filters. Preferably, it comprises a mixture of at least two organic UV filters selected from Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxy benzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane and 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine.

[0070] UV filters can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and better from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer

[0072] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer.

[0073] A "superabsorbent polymer" is defined as a polymer that, in its dry state, is capable of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in "Absorbent Polymer Technology, Studies in Polymer Science 8" by L. Bran Non-Pappas and R. Harland, Elsevier, 1990.

[0074] These polymers have a high capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus soaked in aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.

[0075] The superabsorbent polymer can have a water absorption capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of water absorbed per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and better from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard temperature (25 °C) and pressure (760 mm Hg or 100,000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water. The water absorption capacity of a polymer can be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of water solution, waiting 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 µm filter for 20 minutes, and weighing the unabsorbed water.

[0076] The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or unhydrated state, an average size less than or equal to 100 pm, preferably less than or equal to 50 pm, ranging for example from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 5 to 50 pm and better from 7 to 30 pm.

[0077] The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter (D50) measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell to form soft particles with an average size ranging from 10 pm to 1000 pm.

[0078] The superabsorbent polymers according to the invention are starches grafted with an acrylic polymer. The acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate. Such polymers exhibit gelling properties and a feel similar to that conferred by a silicone compound ("silicone-like" feel).

[0079] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the superabsorbent polymer(s) used comprise 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they consist of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.

[0080] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) used is greater than 1000 daltons.

[0081] Examples include starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, particularly sodium polyacrylate, such as those marketed under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makhnousse 25 or Makhnousse 12 or Makhnousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium polyacrylate Starch).

[0082] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0083] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which are in particulate form.

[0084] Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having a size average (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, preferably still in particle form.

[0085] Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer selected from among starches grafted with an acrylic polymer is present in the composition of the invention at an active ingredient content greater than 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it is present at an active ingredient content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight, and preferably from 0.7% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid and polyol esters

[0086] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C12-C24 fatty acid and C2-C24 polyol ester, preferably at least one Ci6-Ci8 fatty acid and glycerol ester.

[0087] The C12-C24 fatty acid for the fatty acid and polyol ester, preferably the fatty acid and glycerol ester, can be a saturated or unsaturated acid, for example stearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid.

[0088] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0089] The polyol for the fatty acid and polyol ester may be an alkyl-type compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, and in particular at least three -OH functions.

[0090] Polyols advantageously suitable for the fatty acid and polyol ester are those having, preferably, 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0091] Advantageously, the polyol can be chosen for example from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyglycerin-3, glycerin and mixtures thereof.

[0092] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is selected from 1,3-propanediol, polyglycerin-3, glycerin, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, it is glycerin.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester and glycerol.

[0094] Examples of C12-C24 fatty acid esters and glycerol include glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Examples of marketed products include glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, the glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 3120 by the company Hiils.

[0096] Monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: GLYCERYL STEARATE) can also be used, for example those marketed under the name DIMODAN HP by the company DANISCO, or those marketed under the name TEGIN 90 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.

[0097] Preferably, the ester of fatty acid in Ci2-C24 and glycerol is glyceryl stearate.

[0098] Advantageously, the C2-C24 fatty acid ester(s) and C2-C24 polyol ester(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Anionic carboxylic surfactants or carboxylates selected from fatty-chain amino acids and their salts

[0100] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one carboxylic anionic surfactant or carboxylate selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C24, and their salts.

[0101] The term “hydrocarbon chain” means an organic group consisting predominantly of hydrogen and carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms may be replaced by an oxygen or nitrogen atom. Examples of C8-C30 hydrocarbon chains include C8-C30 acyl radicals.

[0102] Examples of amino acids include alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, and sarcosine.

[0103] Plus spécifiquement, on peut citer, à titre de tensioactifs anioniques carboxylates choisis parmi les sels d’acides aminés modifiés par au moins une chaîne grasse, les composés suivants : dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, myristoyl [3-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl [3-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, et leurs mélanges.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant(s) are chosen from compounds of the following structure: O z (CH2)n COOM XY

[0105] in which: Z represents a hydrocarbon group comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -ch2c6h5, -ch2c2h4oh, -ch2oh, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

[0106] According to a preferred embodiment, in formula 2: Z represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group at C8-C22; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; n is equal to 0; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group, or a -(CH2)2C(O)O M+ group; and M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates).

[0108] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroyl glutamic, myristoyl glutamic, palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic, cocoyl glutamic acids and the salts of these acids, in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids.

[0109] Preferably, salts of amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain may be cited as glutamate salts, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.

[0110] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or one of its salts are selected from lauroyl glutamic acid(s), cocoyl glutamic acid(s), sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0111] More preferably, acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0112] Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

[0113] We can also mention triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate marketed under the name AMISOFT CT 12 by the company AJINOMOTO and lauroyl glutamate triethanolamine marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0114] As salts of acyl glutamic acid, we can also mention sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0115] We can also mention commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one derivative of glutamic acid or a salt of said derivative such as, for example, the mixture of acyl glutamates salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate) is used, such as that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 11 PF.

[0117] The amino acid(s) modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohols

[0118] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24.

[0119] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the saturated fatty alcohols in C12-C24 are linear. Preferably, the fatty alcohols comprise from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0120] The fatty alcohol(s) usable within the framework of the present invention may in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. They are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

[0121] As cetyl alcohols particularly suitable for the invention, examples may be used, for example, those sold under the names ECOROL® 16 / 98 F and ECOROL® 16 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, TEGOALKANOL® 16 by Evonik Goldschmidt, LANETTE® 16 by Cognis, VEGAROL® 1698 by WF, ALKONAT® 1698 P by Oxiteno, CETYL ALCOHOL 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, GINOL® 16 (98 %) by Godrej Industries, NACOL® 16-98 by Sasol, KALCOL® 6098 by Kao and ACILOL® 16 by Aegis Chemical.

[0122] As stearyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the names TEGOALKANOL® 18 by Evonik Goldschmidt, ECOROL® 18 / 98 F and ECOROL® 18 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® 18 by Cognis, KALCOL® 8098 by Kao, ACILOL® 18 by Aegis Chemical, NACOL® 18-98 by Sasol and NAA® 45 by Nihon Yushi.

[0123] As cetylstearyl alcohols particularly suitable for the invention, examples may be used, for example, those sold under the names ECOROL® 68 / 50 F and ECOROL® 68 / 50 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® O OR and LANETTE® O OR FLAKES by Cognis, ALKONAT® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, NAFOL® 16-18 EN by Sasol, ALCOHOL CETOESTEARILICO 50 / 50 by Industria Quimica Del Centro, CONOL® 30 CK by New Japan Chemical, CETYL STEARYL ALCOHOL 50:50 by Evonik Goldschmidt, KALCOL® 6850 by Kao, VEGAROL® 1618 (50:50) by WF and GINOL® 1618 50:50 OR by the company Godrej Industries.

[0124] As a behenic alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the name LANETTE 22 by the company BASF.

[0125] The composition according to the invention has an alpha-gel structure, that is to say it has a lamellar phase, due to the presence of a surfactant and a C12-C24-saturated fatty alcohol

[0126] Advantageously, the C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0127] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one wax.

[0128] For the purposes of this invention, wax is defined as a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 °C), deformable or not, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C and up to 120 °C. In particular, waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 70 °C.

[0129] By lipophilic compound is meant a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0130] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments or the calorimeter marketed under the name "DSC Q100" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.

[0131] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is first heated from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally heated a second time from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute. During this second heating cycle, the change in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the change in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0132] Waxes may be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated and be of vegetable, animal, mineral and / or synthetic origin.

[0133] The wax(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3%, and better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of vegetable origin.

[0135] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0136] Jojoba ester wax may be in an unsaturated form of jojoba esters, which may be fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of the following formula: R^COO-CHs-R1

[0137] in which: RI is a CH3-(CH2)y group, y is equal to 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0138] Jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba wax ester (jojoba oil) of the following formula: O II » CB CB - 0¾ - ((¾ * C - O > 0¾ « (ŒÀ - CBr CH ® OU (€8* * 0¾

[0139] in which x and y are equal to 6, 8, 10 or 12.

[0140] Jojoba wax esters are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (position n-9), counting from the terminal methyl group (-CH3) of the respective fatty acid or alcohol chain.

[0141] Such wax esters are composed of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with a number of carbon atoms, primarily 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material comprises esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42, and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of 36- and 46-carbon esters also present. The typical composition of the wax esters is shown below. Ester waxes Unbound length Typical % (surface per G PC) (§, 6; 35 V (S, 8) (8, 6] 38 8 (6, 10) (8, 8)(10, ë) 40 39 (10, 8) [8, 10) 42 33 (W, 10) 44 13 (12, 12) 4& 1

[0142] Jojoba wax ester can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

[0143] Examples of jojoba ester wax include the product marketed under the name Floraesters® 70 by International Flora Technologies Ltd, and the product sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by Vantage.

[0144] Advantageously, jojoba ester wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon wax in addition to the jojoba ester mentioned above.

[0146] Examples include hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax, rice wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; in particular, one can use polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0147] Examples include beeswax, for example the product sold under the name White Beeswax BR G889 by Koster Keunen, camauba wax, for example marketed under the name Cerauba Tl Bio by the company Baerlocher, helianthus annuus (sunflower) wax marketed under the name Sunflower Wax by the company Koster Keunen, or a mixture of these.

[0148] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

[0149] If present, the additional hydrocarbon wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters, and sunflower seed wax with the INCI name CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3, marketed under the name EMULIUM® DOLCEA MB by the company GATTEFOSSE. Aqueous phase

[0151] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0152] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion; the aqueous phase is then the continuous phase.

[0153] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

[0154] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may include, for example, water selected from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy waters, or a floral water.

[0155] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include, in particular, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, isoprene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide motifs and their mixtures, glycerol, diglycerol, and sorbitol, and their mixtures.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of polyols can range for example from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better from 1% to 7% by weight, better from 3% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerol.

[0158] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of alkanool. "Alkanol" means linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, or butanol. "Substantially free" means that the composition contains less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of alkanool. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of alkanool.

[0159] The composition generally comprises from 40% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 55% to 80% by weight.

[0160] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 40% to 95%, preferably from 50% to 90%, preferably from 55% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0161] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

[0162] The oily phase may consist of any oily substances commonly used in cosmetics or dermatology; it includes, in particular, the wax(s) defined above and may include at least one oil. The oily phase also includes the lipophilic filter(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

[0163] The term "oil" means a non-aqueous compound, liquid at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), immiscible with water. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0164] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to produce a vortex. within the mixture (for guidance 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to rest, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0165] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0166] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0167] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means any oil consisting mainly of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may notably contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0168] The term “siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0169] Examples of oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms like the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides like those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil; - synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils with the formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2, in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate (which is a mixture of C16 and C18 alkyl esters with isononanoic acid), the isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol dusononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate; - Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable, or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or involatile, and their derivatives; alkanes containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as C15-19 alkanes like those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L19; branched-chain hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petrolatum, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parléam® marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by SYNTEAL, and REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation.Among the preferred linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic origin, one can cite squalane, which is an oil obtained from the hydrogenation of squalene; or - mixtures thereof.

[0170] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably selected from alkanes comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as in particular C15-19 alkanes.

[0171] The quantity of oil in the composition can range for example from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] Moreover, preferably, the quantity of oil phase ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

[0173] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone compounds. By silicone compounds (also called silicones), we mean all silicone compounds that can be used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, that is to say, inorganic compounds consisting at least of a mixture of silicon and oxygen, including in particular silicone oils, Silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenyl or amine silicones, and mixtures thereof. "Substantially free" means that the composition contains less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone compound. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of silicone compound. lipophilic gelling agent

[0174] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may also include at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0175] For the purposes of this invention, a "lipophilic gelling agent" is defined as a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention. Lipophilic gelling agents are therefore present in the oily phase of the composition.

[0176] In a particular embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from among dextrin esters.

[0177] In particular, the composition comprises a lipophilic gelling agent selected from dextrin and fatty acid esters, especially C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the dextrin ester is a C12-C18 fatty acid dextrin ester, particularly a C14-C18. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate. In a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that marketed, in particular, under the name Rheopearl MKL-2, by Chiba Flour Milling. Most preferably, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This one can for example be chosen from those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

[0178] Preferably, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 2% by weight, of at least one lipophilic gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0179] The composition of the present invention may include at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0180] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; polysaccharides and their derivatives (such as sodium hyaluronate), natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivatives (such as ascorbyl glucoside), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and derivatives of vitamin A; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; tightening agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent. Preferably, this is polyglycerin-3.

[0182] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of cosmetic active ingredient according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0183] The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, disodium EDTA, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example, triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), gelling agents, fillers (for example, silica, tapioca starch, talc, mica, kaolin, cellulose, but also nylon or polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles), coloring materials (for example, water-soluble dyes, powdered coloring materials such as pigments, mother-of-pearl, and glitter well known to those skilled in the art) and mixtures thereof.

[0184] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to impair the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0185] Finally, the invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin of the body and / or face.

[0186] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above to hydrate keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face.

[0187] The invention also relates, according to yet another aspect, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, comprising at least the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0188] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting skin darkening and / or improving the color and / or evenness of the complexion including the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0189] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for hydrating keratinous materials, preferably the skin of the body and / or face, comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous materials of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0190] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material, preferably the skin of the body and / or face, comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0191] Concrete, but by no means limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0192] In the examples, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.

[0193] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (%w / w). Examples MATERIALS AND METHODS Stability measurement

[0194] The stability of the compositions can be evaluated according to the following protocol: - The properties of the composition to be tested are evaluated immediately after its preparation. - The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at different temperatures: 4°C, 37°C, and 45°C. The temperature can be regulated using an incubator, for example, the Bio Concept incubator from Firlabo. - The properties are evaluated after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.

[0195] The properties evaluated are: - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter; - the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 from Lamy Rheology, according to method CID-012-02; - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under a microscope between a slide and a coverslip, at a magnification of X10; - the color and smell of the composition; and - release, creaming, coalescence, surface film formation, marbling...

[0196] The closer the properties of the composition remain after 1 month and / or 2 months of storage to those measured initially, then the more the composition can be considered to remain stable.

[0197] In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without release, without phase separation and without color change, then it is considered to be stable. Measurement of glide / smoothness (playtime)

[0198] The evaluation of playtime consists of rating the performance level of the composition according to the slipperiness / smoothness on a scale from 1 (not at all slippery / smooth) to 5 (very slippery / smooth).

[0199] To do this, 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken using an Eppendorf micropipette fitted with a 0.5 mL combitip, then deposited onto a SKIN FX support (Reference: SHEET MEDIUM BACK K6 LANGUETTE from AXON CABLE SAS) applied to the back of the hand. The composition is then spread by hand, with approximately 15 rotations, twice at 15-second intervals. The spread composition is left to dry for 120 seconds, and the fingers are rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water. Slipperiness / softness is assessed using the index and middle fingers after drying. Between assessments, the fingers are rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water.

[0200] The study is conducted by a panel of 5 experienced individuals who individually evaluate the slipperiness / smoothness according to the protocol above. The result is expressed as the average of the scores obtained, rounded to the nearest half-unit, according to the following scale: - score < 3: sticky and greasy film-forming: acceptable / slippery and soft: barely or not at all acceptable; - score equal to 3: slippery / soft / sticky / greasy film-forming: moderately acceptable; - score > 3: sticky and greasy film-forming: unacceptable / slippery and soft: acceptable.

[0201] Example 1: Preparation of a composition according to the invention and evaluation of this composition compared to a comparative composition

[0202] The composition Fl according to the invention and the comparative formula of Table 1 below are prepared by the following protocol (quantity in raw materials): The ingredients of phase A are mixed and heated to 65-70°C; The ingredients of phase B are mixed and heated to approximately 70°C, then ingredient Bl is added; Phase B is emulsified in phase A; We cool down; Then we add phase C, then D.

[0203] [Tables2] Phase Ingredient (% Fl Comparative composition Cl A SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0 15 0.15 A Water 30 30 A SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.4Q 0.40 A GLYCERINE 5.90 5.00 A PRQPANED1GL l.æ 100 A Preservatives sa. ,® A Falling 06 0.6 B CETEAFYL ALCOHOL (mi) JOJOBA ESTERS asd) GLYCEP.TL STEARATE (and) SODIUM ^TEAROYL. GLUTAMATE (asd) HELIANTHUS ANNÜUS SEED CERA (and) FDLYGLVCERET-3 (EWUÙMDO1CEA MB de ŒTTTEÎO^Ei 2.05 - B CETYL ESTERA 31 d CETYL ESTERS w 100 B DEXTRIN PALMITATE 0.9 0.9 B BUTYL MET HOX ¥D1BENZOYLMETHANE 3.90 3.00 B ETHYLHEXYL 3AL1CYLATE 5.W 5, G0 B QCTÜCRYLEME 7ÆQ 7.00 B HOMOSALATE 5.æ 5.00 B C15-19 ALKANE Ü& 0.9 B ACTIVE ACTIVE 1.13 1.13 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH 12 from Date Kaseh LW 1.10 c ___to___ Qsp W0 Qspiœ D TAPIOCA STARCH 2.00 2.50 D SILICA 1.00 1.00 D ACTIVES 4.33 ■4.33 Macroscopic product: Medium-thick cream, slightly thick. Medium-thick cream. Viscosity M3 at 2°C at t=W min in UD 55 UD 47 CD Stability after 15 days at 45°C: Compliant, not subject to change. Re-engaged.

[0204] Conclusion: the presence of CETEARYL ALCOHOL, JOJOBA ESTERS, GLYCERYL STEARATE, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, and HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA has a favorable effect on the stability of the formula.

[0205] The Fl formula appears as a fine, tightly packed emulsion with sharp edges under a non-polarized light microscope, and exhibits anisotropy under a polarized light microscope. It is a moisturizing cream with a smooth application, a soft skin finish, and is non-greasy and non-sticky.

[0206] On the contrary, the comparative composition is unstable after 15 days at 45°C (oil release).

[0207] Example 2: Evaluation of composition Fl in relation to another comparative composition

[0208] A composition F2 according to the invention is compared with the comparative composition in the following table 2 (obtained by the protocol of example 1).

[0209] [Tables3] ingredient (% w / w) F2 Comparative composition C2 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.00 3.00 GLYCERIN 5.00 5.00 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.4 0.4 ETHYLHEXYL SAUCYLATE 5.00 5.00 CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS 1.00 EGO OCTOCRYLENE 7.00 7 00 HOMOSALATE 5.00 5.00 DEXTRIN PALMITATE 0.9 0.9 PROPANED1OL 1.00 1.00 TAPIOCA STARCH 2.00 2.00 015-19 ALKANE 0.9 0.9 Preservatives æ Sâ SILICA 1.00 1.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JO JOB A ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (EMULIUM DOLCEA MB de GATTEFOSSE) 2.00 2.00 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH 12 de Oalto Kasei) 1.10 0.40 ACTIVE INGREDIENTS 4.33 4.33 Macroscopic observation Medium-thick cream, slightly viscous Fluid cream, very slightly Viscosity M3 at 24h at 1=10 min in UD 55 UD 7UD Swtœ Stickiness: 1 Slippery / softness 14 Total quantity of fatty acid: 1 Stickiness: 3 Slippery / softness 3 Total quantity of fatty acid: 2.5

[0210] Conclusion: the presence of a starch grafted by an acrylic polymer (sodium polyacrylate starch) at 1.10% by weight has a favorable effect on the sensory quality of the formula.

[0211] Regarding the perception of stickiness, slipperiness / softness and greasy film-forming, composition F2 according to the invention is a moisturizing cream with a soft application and a soft, non-greasy and non-sticky skin finish.

[0212] On the contrary, the comparative composition comprising an acrylic polymer at 0.4% by weight is a moisturizing cream with a moderately soft and slippery application, and a slightly sticky and oily skin finish.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - At least one UV filter, - At least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer, - at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester and C2-C24 polyol; and - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the UV filter is selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments; preferably the UV filter is at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filter; preferably the composition comprises a mixture of at least two organic UV filters selected from Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane and 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the superabsorbent polymer is a starch grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in the form of particles.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the superabsorbent polymer is present in an active material content greater than 0.4% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the C12-C24 fatty acid ester(s) and C2-C24 polyol ester(s) are selected from fatty acid esters and

6.

7. of glycerol, and preferably selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C12-C24 fatty acid ester(s) and C2-C24 polyol ester(s) are present in an amount from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant(s) are selected from compounds of the following structure: z COOM

8.

9. in which Z represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group at C8-C22; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group, or a -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+ group; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic carboxylic surfactant(s) or carboxylate(s) are present in a concentration from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, alcohol myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, preferably behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, the fatty alcohol(s) being preferably present in quantities ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one wax, in particular at least one jojoba ester wax, preferably present in an amount from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to claim 10 further comprising at least one helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, preferably present in an amount from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is an oil-in-water emulsion.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is substantially free of alkanool and / or silicone compound.

14. A cosmetic, non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material, preferably skin, comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

15. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for moisturizing keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face.