A hair coloring process comprising the application of a mineral salt and a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a specific polymer, and a coloring agent.
A hair coloring process using a mineral salt and (poly)carbodiimide compound forms a resistant coating, addressing the durability issues of existing methods by creating a long-lasting, shampoo-resistant color.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024006961
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring methods, particularly those using pigments, lack resistance to shampoos and external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing, and friction, leading to poor durability of the color.
A hair coloring process involving treatment with a composition containing a mineral salt and a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent, which forms a resistant coating on the hair.
The process achieves a permanent color on the hair that is resistant to shampoos and various aggressions such as brushing and rubbing, providing long-lasting color retention.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: A hair coloring process comprising the application of a mineral salt and a composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a specific polymer, and a coloring agent
[0001] The present invention relates to a hair coloring process comprising the application of a treatment with a composition comprising at least one mineral salt, then the application to the hair of a coloring composition C comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, at least one specific polymer and a coloring agent. technical field
[0002] In the field of hair keratin fiber coloring, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or from dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0003] There are essentially three types of hair coloring processes:
[0004] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0005] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not implement the oxidative condensation process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing the keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
[0006] c) Temporary hair coloring that results in a change to the natural hair color that lasts from one shampoo to the next and serves to enhance or correct a previously achieved shade. It can also be considered a "makeup" process.
[0007] Another coloring method involves using pigments. Indeed, applying pigments to the surface of keratin fibers generally produces visible colors on dark hair, since the surface pigment masks the fiber's natural color. However, the colors obtained using this method have the disadvantage of being poorly resistant to shampoos and external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing, and / or friction.
[0008] There therefore remains a need for a hair coloring process which has the advantage of forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and to the various aggressions that hair can undergo, such as brushing and / or rubbing.
[0009] Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a hair coloring process which has the advantage of forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and to the various aggressions that hair can undergo, such as brushing and / or rubbing. Description of the invention
[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a hair coloring process comprising:
[0011] (i) a step consisting of treating the hair with a composition T comprising at minus one mineral salt, then
[0012] (ii) a step consisting of applying to the hair at least one coloring composition C comprising:
[0013] (1) at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound;
[0014] (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids; and
[0015] (3) at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants and their mixtures.
[0016] Thanks to the hair coloring process according to the invention, a permanent color is obtained on the hair that is resistant to shampoos and to the various aggressions that the hair may undergo, such as brushing and / or rubbing.
[0017] The expression "at least one" means one or more.
[0018] Unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0019] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0020] For the purposes of the present invention and, unless otherwise indicated,
[0021] - an "alkyl" radical designates a saturated linear or branched radical containing by example of 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
[0022] - an "aminoalkyl" radical means an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group;
[0023] - a "hydroxyalkyl" radical means an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;
[0024] - an "alkylene" radical designates a divalent saturated hydrocarbon group at C2-C4, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;
[0025] - a "cycloalkyl" or "alicycloalkyl" radical designates a hydrocarbon group saturated cyclic mono- or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, bicyclic, or tricyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbomyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, or a cyclohexyl. It being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group.
[0026] - a "cycloalkylene" radical designates a divalent cycloalkyl group with " cycloalkyl” as defined above, preferably in C3-Ci2;
[0027] - an "aryl" radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl;
[0028] - an "arylene" radical is a divalent aryl radical with "aryl" as defined previously preferred arylene represents phenylene;
[0029] - a "heterocyclic" radical designates a mono- or hydrocarbon radical polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, comprising one or more heteroatoms preferably of 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 links preferably between 5 and 10 links such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;
[0030] - a "heterocycloalkylene" radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with "heterocyclic" as defined above;
[0031] - an "aryloxy" radical designates an aryl-oxy radical with "aryl" as defined previously;
[0032] - an "alkoxy" radical designates an alkyl-oxy radical with "alkyl" as defined previously;
[0033] - an "acyloxy" radical designates an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as defined previously;
[0034] - a "reactive" group is a group capable of forming a bond covalent with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction.
[0035] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in this application, this also includes their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixtures.
[0036] By "keratin fibers (capillaries)", we mean hair. In other words, the expressions "keratin fibers (capillaries)" and "hair" are equivalent in the remainder of the description.
[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. Treatment with a mineral salt
[0038] The treatment composition T used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one mineral salt.
[0039] Preferably, the mineral salts are chosen from sulfates, chlorides, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] The mineral salt(s) according to the invention can, for example, be chosen from calcium chloride and its hydrates, calcium sulfate and its hydrates, zinc sulfate hydrates, magnesium sulfate, and mixtures thereof, preferably from calcium chloride, calcium chloride dihydrate, calcium sulfate, calcium sulfate dihydrate, zinc sulfate heptahydrate, magnesium sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0041] Advantageously, the mineral salt(s) according to the invention are chosen from calcium chloride, calcium sulfate, zinc sulfate, magnesium sulfate, their hydrates, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Advantageously, the mineral salt(s) according to the invention are chosen from calcium chloride and its hydrates, calcium sulfate and its hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from calcium chloride dihydrate, calcium sulfate, calcium sulfate dihydrate, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] According to a preferred embodiment, the mineral salt(s) according to the invention are chosen from among sulfate salts, more preferably from among calcium sulfates.
[0044] Thus, preferably, the mineral salt(s) are chosen from among sulfates, chlorides, and their mixtures, more preferably from among sulfate salts, more preferably still from among calcium sulfates.
[0045] Better, the mineral salt(s) according to the invention are chosen from calcium sulfate and its hydrates, preferably from calcium sulfate, calcium sulfate dihydrate, and their mixtures.
[0046] Advantageously, the said mineral salt(s) is / are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a quantity ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition T.
[0047] Advantageously, the mineral salt(s) selected from calcium chloride, calcium sulfate, zinc sulfate, magnesium sulfate, their hydrates, and mixtures thereof, is / are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T. Polycarbodiimide compound
[0048] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound.
[0049] The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present in mixture in the composition.
[0050] The term "(poly)carbodiimide compound" means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide group(s), preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups; in particular, the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.
[0051] The term “carbodiimide group” means a divalent linear triatomic fraction of general formula - (N=C=N) -.
[0052] The (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups other than carbodiimide groups, selected from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0053] The reactive group(s) other than the carbodiimide groups may be pendant or terminal. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise one or more terminal groups other than the carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more terminal groups selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0054] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): O —A—--------N'" HL ? H
[0055] in which:
[0056] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0057] - Ri and R2 independently represent a grouping chosen from a radical hydrocarbon, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and by one or more groups selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehyde alkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl,acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxides such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane; ,
[0058] - n denotes an integer from 1 to 1000; and
[0059] - A is a monomer selected from the compounds below:
[0060] According to another embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (!'): (D
[0061] in which:
[0062] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0063] - Yiet Y2 represent, independently, a divalent organic radical chosen from a saturated aliphatic group in C36 at Ci or an aromatic or alkylaromatic group in C6 to C24, the aliphatic or aromatic group optionally comprising one or more non-pending heteroatoms, such as nitrogen atom, oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or combinations thereof;
[0064] - Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group or a group inert terminal;
[0065] - as an inert terminal group, Zi and Z2 can represent, independently, a saturated aliphatic group, linear or branched or cyclic, in the C1 to C50 range, or an aromatic group in the C6 to C8 range, said aliphatic and aromatic groups possibly comprising from 1 to 10 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and their combinations, and the aliphatic or aromatic group may be partially or totally fluorinated; in this variant, Zi and Z2 comprise a CG linking group connecting Zi to Yi and Z2 to Y2, the CG group being a single covalent bond, a saturated CC bond, an unsaturated covalent CC bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group;
[0066] - as a reactive terminal group, Zi and Z2 can be chosen from the alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide groups such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide and azacyclopropane;
[0067] - Q represents an organopolymer or an organo-oligomer comprising units repetitive saturated aliphatic groups, linear or branched or cyclic, or aromatic groups or alkylaromatic groups, coupled by repetitive carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea bonds or their combinations;
[0068] - A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or linear, saturated, branched or cyclic having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally including one or more non-pending heteroatoms, such as nitrogen atom, oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or combinations thereof, in the aliphatic chain or aromatic chain;
[0069] - r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0070] - m denotes an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0071] - m' designates an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0072] - n denotes an integer from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1, with m+ (m'*n ) > 2.
[0073] Preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group, more preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a group selected from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalk ylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane.
[0074] Such (poly)carbodiimide compounds are, for example, marketed by Stahl BV under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLinklO., under the name Picassian XL, and Nisshinbo compounds marketed under the name CARBODILITE with the series V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW-12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V-05.
[0075] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are selected from the compounds of the following formula (II): S-.. A \ -5, * \ : z X
[0076] in which:
[0077] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0078] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0079] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes a integer ranging from 1 to 3;
[0080] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in Cr Cig, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
[0081] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0082] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-,
[0083] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0084] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0085] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0086] The term “hydrocarbon radical” means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 atoms of carbon, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.
[0087] The hydrocarbon radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.
[0088] The hydrocarbon radical can be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and / or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or cationic group(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic group(s), and / or comprising a metal ion which can be incorporated in the form of a salt.
[0089] The term "heteroatom(s)" means an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or a nitrogen atom N, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from among the oxygen atoms O, sulfur atoms S or nitrogen atoms N.
[0090] Preferably, Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.
[0091] Preferably, Ri and R2 are chosen independently from dialkylaminoalcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] According to a preferred embodiment, Ri and R2 are chosen independently from the following groupings (i) to (iv):
[0093] (i) the compound of the following formula (III):
[0094] R7-OC(O)-C(R8)(H)-(III),
[0095] wherein R7 represents a Ci-C3 alkyl group, and R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C3 alkyl group, preferably R7 is a methyl and R8 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0096] (ii) the compound of the following formula (IV):
[0097] R9-[0-CH2-C(H)(Rio)]p-(IV),
[0098] wherein R9 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, Rio represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group and p denotes an integer from 1 to 3; preferably, R9 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0099] (iii) the compound of the following formula (V):
[0100] (Rh)2N-CH2-C(H)(Ri2)- (V),
[0101] wherein Ru represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group and R[2 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group; preferably Ru is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[2 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0102] (iv) the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0103] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0104] wherein Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; preferably Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and Ru is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0105] Preferably, Ri and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0106] According to an alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are different and one of the radicals Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.
[0107] Preferably, in formula (IV), R9 is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0108] Preferably, in formula (VI), Rb is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0109] According to another alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30.
[0110] Preferably, n denotes an integer from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0111] Preferably, z denotes an integer from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0112] Preferably, w is equal to 1.
[0113] Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer from 4 to 10.
[0114] Preferably, Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in Ci -Ci8 such as methylene, ethylene, and propylene, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene, and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] For example, Li can be selected from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethyl diisocyanate, 1,12-diisocyanate dodecane, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, the 1,5-naphthylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.
[0116] Preferably, Li is selected from a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of the following formula (VII):
[0117] Preferably, L1 is the 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the following formula (VIII):
[0118] According to another embodiment, when L1 is a C6-Ci4 arylene group, Li is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX): (IX).
[0119] As stated previously, E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0120] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0121] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0122] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); and
[0123] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0124] Preferably, R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a C6-Cm arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof.
[0125] More preferably, R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0126] Preferably, when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0127] Preferably, R6 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0128] Preferably, E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0129] More preferably, E represents a -O-R3-O- group in which R3 represents a linear or Ci-Ci8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of the following formula (X): (X),
[0131] in which R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and,
[0132] n denotes an integer from 2 to 100.
[0133] In this embodiment, the term “alkyl group” is as defined above.
[0134] In this embodiment, the term "cycloalkyl group" is as defined above.
[0135] In this embodiment, n can denote an integer from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10.
[0136] According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XI):
[0137] in which R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0138] The "alkyl group", the "cycloalkyl group" and the "aryl group" are as defined above.
[0139] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is selected from compounds of formula (I) or formula (II) in which:
[0140] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0141] - Ri and R2 are chosen independently from among the dialkylaminoalcohols, the alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferably the compound of formula (VI) as described above, in which R13 represents a group alkyl in C1-C4 or a phenyl, preferably an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in CrC4, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0142] - n and z, when present, denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n +z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0143] - Li, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof, preferably a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5;
[0144] - A, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof, preferably a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5;
[0145] - E, when present, independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0146] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0147] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0148] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5, when present, is chosen including a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0149] - R6, when present, is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in CrCi8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0150] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0151] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0152] - Ri and R2 are chosen independently from among the dialkylaminoalcohols, the alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
[0153] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0154] - Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical at C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group at C3-Ci2, or an arylene group at C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof;
[0155] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0156] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0157] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0158] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0159] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0160] More preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0161] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0162] - Ri and R2, are independently of (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;
[0163] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0164] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical;
[0165] - E independently represents a grouping chosen from:
[0166] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0167] wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0168] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and
[0169] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0171] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0172] - Ri and R2, independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0173] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0174] wherein Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4] represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0175] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0176] - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, the cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0177] - E represents a grouping -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a radical arylene in C6-Ci4, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci2, a linear or branched alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0178] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0179] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0180] - Ri and R2, independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI):
[0181] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI)
[0182] wherein R13 represents a CrC4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30;
[0183] - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0184] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, the cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0185] - E represents a group- -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a radical linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0186] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound with the following formula (XII):
[0187] in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 represents a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer from 4 to 30.
[0188] Advantageously, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as defined above are present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0189] Polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids
[0190] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, preferably at least one acrylic polymer.
[0191] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) are in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles, more preferably in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
[0192] Thus, preferably, composition C comprises at least one acrylic polymer in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles.
[0193] The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. Latexes are a particular example of a dispersion.
[0194] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound consisting of the repetition of one or more motifs (these motifs being derived from compounds called monomers). This motif or these motifs are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.
[0195] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a substrate, in particular on hair, and preferably a cohesive film
[0196] For the purposes of this invention, "acrylic polymer" means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer selected from (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide.
[0197] The motif(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may (may) possibly be in the form of salt(s), in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base.
[0198] Esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates) are advantageously chosen from among alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular alkyl acrylates in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, better in C1 to Cm, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular aryl acrylates in C6 to C10, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular hydroxyalkyl acrylates in C2 to C6.
[0199] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl-2 hexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.
[0200] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0201] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate can be cited.
[0202] Particularly preferred esters of (meth)acrylic acid are the Alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably alkyl in C1 to C30, more preferably in C1 to C20, even better in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0203] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
[0204] Examples of (meth)acrylic acid amides include (meth)acrylamides, as well as N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, particularly alkyl groups in C2 to C12. Examples of N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides include N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide, and N-undecylacrylamide.
[0205] The acrylic polymer according to the invention can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, even better a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (meth)acrylic acid esters.
[0206] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more motifs derived from the following monomers:
[0207] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0208] b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C1 to C30, more preferably in C1 to C20, even better in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0209] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not comprise a surfactant. The term "surfactant" means any agent capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces.
[0210] Among the acrylic polymers according to the invention, we can mention the copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name LUVIMER MAE by BASF, or the Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer compound sold under the trade name FIXATE SUPERHOLD POLYMER by LUBRIZOL, or the Acrylate Copolymer compound sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000VP3 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO, or the Acrylate Copolymer compound sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 by DAITO KASEI KOGYO.
[0211] The acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomers.
[0212] As an additional monomer, examples include styrenic monomers, in particular styrene and alpha-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.
[0213] In particular, the acrylic polymer may be a styrene / (meth)acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer selected from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer in C1 to C20, preferably in C1 to C10.
[0214] The alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer in C1 to C10 can be selected from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate.
[0215] As an acrylic polymer, we can cite the styrene / (meth)acrylate(s) copolymers marketed under the name JONCRYL 77 by BASF, under the name YODOSOL GH41F by AKZO NOBEL and under the name SYNTRAN 5760 CG by INTERPOLYMER.
[0216] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles. More preferably, composition C comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more motifs derived from the following monomers:
[0217] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0218] b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, more preferably in C1 to C10, and even more particularly in C1 to C4.
[0219] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has an acrylic polymer(s) (or active material, or dry matter) content on the basis of the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 22 to 55% by weight and even better of 25 to 50% by weight.
[0220] Advantageously, the total content of the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0221] Advantageously, the total content of the acrylic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0222] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of the aqueous dispersion(s) of acrylic polymer particle(s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, even better from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Coloring agent
[0223] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one colouring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof.
[0224] Preferably, composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.
[0225] The term "pigment" means all pigments that impart color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
[0226] The pigments that can be used are in particular chosen from among the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the technique, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0227] They may be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0228] These pigments may be in the form of a powder or pigment paste. They may be coated or uncoated.
[0229] Pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0230] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide.
[0231] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment.
[0232] The organic pigment may in particular be selected from the following compounds: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0233] In particular, white or colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0234] By way of example, one can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
[0235] - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);
[0236] - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);
[0237] - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);
[0238] - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);
[0239] - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);
[0240] - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);
[0241] - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);
[0242] - COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);
[0243] - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0244] The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.
[0245] The organic pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean colorants adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0246] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0247] Among the colorants, we can mention carminic acid. We can also mention the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0248] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0249] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment. Special effects pigments are defined as pigments that generally create a non-uniform and changing colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy, and clarity) depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinct from colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or conventionally transparent tint.
[0250] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.
[0251] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica with iron oxides, iron oxide-coated mica, titanium-coated mica, particularly with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium-coated mica with an organic pigment as defined above, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. Examples of pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3), and Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0252] We can also mention gold-colored mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver; and orange-pink and golden-green mother-of-pearl, among others; marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer (Xirona) and their blends.
[0253] As further examples of nacres, we can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0254] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0255] Finally, examples of mother-of-pearl include polyethylene terephthalate flakes, particularly those marketed by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum can also be considered.
[0256] Special effect pigments may also be selected from reflective particles, that is to say, particles whose size, structure, including the thickness of the layer(s) that constitute them and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create, on the surface of the composition or mixture, when applied to the makeup support, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say, brighter points that contrast with their surroundings by appearing to shine.
[0257] Reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may, in particular, have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0258] These particles can have various shapes, including platelet or globular, particularly spherical.
[0259] Reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0260] When reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0261] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated by at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.
[0262] More specifically, it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being exhaustive.
[0263] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0264] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0265] As further examples of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, one can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0266] Silver-coated glass substrate particles in the form of wafers are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate particles are sold under the names CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0267] Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium may also be used, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0268] An example can be cited as aluminium, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0269] Other examples include non-substrate interference pigments such as liquid crystals (Wacker's Helicones HC) and interference holographic glitter (Spectratek's Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether daylight fluorescent or ultraviolet fluorescent, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots, marketed, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0270] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic, interference effects.
[0271] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 pm.
[0272] The pigments can be dispersed within the composition by means of a dispersing agent.
[0273] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles from agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of these, possessing one or more functionalities with a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may adhere physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid are used, especially C8 to C20 fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol and diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol, such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema and their mixtures.
[0274] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, we can mention quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0275] The pigments used in the composition can be surface treated with an organic agent.
[0276] Thus, the pigments previously surface-treated useful within the framework of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition according to the invention.These organic agents may be chosen for example from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate motifs; alkanoamines; compounds. silicones, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluoro-silicone compounds.
[0277] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated by a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0278] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared using surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in the commercial market.
[0279] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0280] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0281] Surface treatment can thus be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0282] Preferably, an organic agent covalently linked to the pigments will be used.
[0283] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface.
[0284] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
[0285] - a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0286] - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0287] - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0288] - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment as the surface treatment Covasil 4.05 marketed by LCW;
[0289] - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as MM surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0290] - an Aluminium Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;
[0291] - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment as a surface treatment FHC marketed by LCW;
[0292] - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the commercially available HS surface treatment by Miyoshi;
[0293] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment as a PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0294] - an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0295] - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0296] - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment as the surface treatment ASC marketed by Daito;
[0297] - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0298] - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0299] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0300] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in submicron-sized particulate form.
[0301] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0302] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in quantity (dispersing agent: pigment), according to a weight ratio, between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0303] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone skeleton, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants. Suitable dispersing agents include:
[0304] - amino-silicones i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such than those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee Polymers,
[0305] - silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,
[0306] - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X- 22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0307] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type and are cationic.
[0308] Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0309] In one embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent selected from silicone compounds. In another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
[0310] Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black. An example of an iron oxide is the iron oxide sold by Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide.
[0311] Direct dye
[0312] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may include one or more direct dye(s).
[0313] By "direct dye," we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic, for example cationic or anionic, or non-ionic.
[0314] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
[0315] Direct dyes can be selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkali substances. Anionic direct dyes are understood to mean any direct dye having in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R designates a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic dyes can be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, and acidic natural dyes.
[0316] A titre d’exemple de colorants acides on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;
[0317] A titre d’exemple de colorants azo anioniques pyrazolones on peut citer : Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76Acid Yellow 17 ;
[0318] As an example of anthraquinone dyes, we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2;: Acid Black 48;
[0319] Examples of nitro dyes include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of dyes of formula (XXII') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethanesulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0320] Examples of triarylmethane dyes include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0321] Examples of xanthenic dyes include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9.
[0322] Examples of indole dyes include: Acid Blue 74;
[0323] Examples of quinoline dyes include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0324] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used.
[0325] The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
[0326] The pigment(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0327] The direct colorant(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Associative polymers
[0328] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one associative polymer different from the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above.
[0329] As mentioned above, "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0330] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0331] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or hydrocarbon chain polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0332] The associative polymers may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric. Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from among the anionic associative polymers.
[0333] Among the associative anionic polymers, we can cite copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0334] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol.
[0335] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylened stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by the company ROHM and HAAS.
[0336] Preferably, the associative polymer(s), different from polymers comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids previously described, are chosen from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0337] Advantageously, the total content of the associative polymer(s) other than the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Organic solvents
[0338] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0339] Examples of organic solvents include lower C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols, in particular aromatic monoalcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0340] Organic solvents may be present in a total content of between 10 and 80% by weight, preferably between 25 and 70% by weight and more preferably between 35 and 65% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0341] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may be aqueous. The water content may range from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Additives
[0342] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0343] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, we can mention reducing agents, softeners, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers previously described, preservatives, amino and / or non-amino silicones, oils, waxes other than silicones in wax form, and mixtures thereof.
[0344] The composition C used in the process according to the invention may be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / E or polyol / H / E or H / E / H), in the form of cream, foam, stick, vesicle dispersion, including ionic or non-ionic lipids, biphasic or multiphase lotion.
[0345] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate pharmaceutical form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of their general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition.
[0346] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C. Composition D
[0347] The hair coloring process according to the invention may further include the application to the hair of a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent.
[0348] Preferably, the acidifying agent is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.
[0349] Advantageously, composition D has a pH ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 1.5 to 5, more preferably from 2 to 4.
[0350] According to a preferred embodiment, composition C and optional composition D are applied simultaneously to the hair.
[0351] According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair after the application of composition C to the hair.
[0352] According to yet another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair before the application of composition C to the hair.
[0353] According to a particularly preferred method, composition D is applied to the hair after the application of composition C to the hair. Process
[0354] The hair coloring process according to the invention comprises a step (i) of treating the hair with a composition T comprising at least one mineral salt as described above and a step (ii) of applying a coloring composition C as defined above.
[0355] Thus, according to the invention, step (i) is carried out before step (ii), or step (i) is carried out after step (ii).
[0356] In other words, composition T is applied to the hair before or after composition C.
[0357] Thus, the two compositions T and C are not applied simultaneously to the hair.
[0358] According to a preferred embodiment, step (i) is carried out before step (ii).
[0359] According to another preferred embodiment, step (i) is carried out after step (ii).
[0360] The particularly preferred embodiment is the one in which step (i) is carried out before step (ii).
[0361] Thus, in this particularly preferred embodiment, composition T is applied to the hair before composition C.
[0362] According to a particular embodiment, step (ii) is performed at least once.
[0363] Treatment with a composition T comprising at least one mineral salt as defined above can be carried out on dry or wet hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened. Application of composition T as a pretreatment
[0364] According to a preferred embodiment, step (i) is carried out before step (ii).
[0365] Thus, in this embodiment, composition T is applied as a pretreatment.
[0366] According to a particular embodiment, the pre-treatment composition T is applied to the strands using a comb, a brush, a sponge or fingers.
[0367] According to a particular embodiment, composition T is left in contact with the hair between 1 minute and 3 days, before possible rinsing with water.
[0368] Preferably, composition T is left in contact with the hair between 1 minute and 10 hours, more preferably between 5 minutes and 3 hours, more preferably still between 5 minutes and 1 hour, better between 5 minutes and 40 minutes.
[0369] In other words, the exposure time of composition T is preferably between 1 minute and 10 hours, more preferably between 5 minutes and 3 hours, even more preferably between 5 minutes and 1 hour, better between 5 minutes and 40 minutes.
[0370] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hair is rinsed with water or washed after the application of composition T as a pre-treatment.
[0371] Preferably, a washing or rinsing, spinning or drying step is implemented after the application of composition T as a pretreatment.
[0372] More preferably, a washing and / or rinsing step is implemented after the application of composition T as a pre-treatment and before the application of composition C.
[0373] The application of the pretreatment composition T as defined above can be carried out between 15 and 40°C. Application of the C coloring composition
[0374] The hair coloring composition C described above can be used on treated or untreated, dry or damp hair, and on all hair types, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened. Preferably, the hair coloring composition C is applied to dry hair.
[0375] Preferably, a rinsing, wringing and / or drying step is carried out after applying composition C to the hair. More preferably, a drying step is carried out after applying composition C to the hair.
[0376] Application to the hair can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge or the fingers.
[0377] The application of composition C to the hair is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25 °C).
[0378] After application of composition C to the hair, one can wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before for example the application of composition D to the hair, or the application of a post-treatment composition or a drying step.
[0379] Preferably, if the hair is dried, it is dried not only with heat but also with an airflow. This airflow during drying helps to improve the individualization of the coating.
[0380] After application of composition C, the hair may be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature of 30 °C or higher.
[0381] The process according to the invention can thus include a step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool.
[0382] The heat application step of the process of the invention can be carried out using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon, ... Preferably, the heat application step of the process of the invention is carried out using a hair dryer.
[0383] During the heat application step on the hair, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing with fingers.
[0384] The hair coloring process according to the invention comprises:
[0385] (i) a step consisting of treating the hair with a composition T comprising at minus a mineral salt as defined previously, and
[0386] (ii) a step of applying to the hair at least one coloring composition C comprising:
[0387] (1) at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above;
[0388] (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids; and
[0389] (3) at least one coloring agent as defined above,
[0390] it being understood that step (i) may be followed by step (ii) or step (i) may be preceded by step (ii), preferably step (i) is followed by step (ii).
[0391] Preferably, the hair coloring process according to the invention comprises, in order:
[0392] (i) a step consisting of treating the hair with a composition T comprising at minus a mineral salt as defined previously,
[0393] (ii) a step of washing and / or rinsing the hair,
[0394] (iii) a step of applying to the hair at least one coloring composition C comprising:
[0395] (1) at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above;
[0396] (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids; and
[0397] (3) at least one coloring agent as defined above, and
[0398] (iv) optionally the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as described above.
[0399] Preferably, the invention is a hair coloring process comprising, in order:
[0400] (i) a step consisting of treating the hair with a composition T comprising at minus a mineral salt as defined previously,
[0401] (ii) a contact time of said composition T on the hair of 1 minute to 10 hours, more preferably from 5 minutes to 3 hours, more preferably still from 5 minutes to 1 hour, better from 5 minutes to 40 minutes; then
[0402] (iii) a step of washing and / or rinsing the hair;
[0403] (iv) a step consisting of applying to the hair at least one composition of Color C includes:
[0404] (1) at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above;
[0405] (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids; and
[0406] (3) at least one coloring agent as defined above.
[0407] (v) optionally a processing time of said composition C on the hair of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes; then
[0408] (vi) optionally a step of drying said hair, then
[0409] (vii) optionally the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as described above; then
[0410] (viii) optionally a processing time of said composition D on the hair of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes; then
[0411] (ix) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing and / or drying the hair.
[0412] Preferably, composition C further comprises at least one associative polymer, different from the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, as described above.
[0413] Advantageously, the coloring process includes step (vii) of applying to the hair a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as described above.
[0414] Advantageously, the coloring process according to the invention comprises a step consisting of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and applying composition C to the hair in step (ii), with:
[0415] - composition A comprising (1) at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound such that defined previously;
[0416] - composition B comprising (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from among the carboxylic acids as defined previously,
[0417] composition A and / or composition B comprising (3) at least one colouring agent as defined above.
[0418] According to a preferred embodiment, the coloring process according to the invention is a hair coloring process comprising, in order:
[0419] (i) a step consisting of treating the hair with a composition T comprising at least one mineral salt as defined above, a processing time of said composition T on the hair of 1 minute to 10 hours, more preferably from 5 minutes to 3 hours, more preferably still from 5 minutes to 1 hour, better still from 5 minutes to 40 minutes; then
[0420] (ii) a hair washing and / or rinsing step
[0421] (iii) a step consisting of applying to the hair at least one coloring composition C obtained by mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B, with:
[0422] - composition A comprising (1) at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound such that defined previously;
[0423] - composition B comprising (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group chosen from among the carboxylic acids as defined;
[0424] composition A and / or composition B comprising (3) at least one colouring agent as defined above and optionally at least one associative polymer, different from the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, as described previously.
[0425] According to a preferred embodiment, at least composition B contains (3) at least one coloring agent as defined above.
[0426] Advantageously, the coloring process further comprises the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as described above, said composition D being applied to the hair before and / or after the application of composition C to the hair.
[0427] Preferably, composition A does not include at least one colouring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof.
[0428] According to this embodiment, compositions A and B are mixed preferably less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, better less than 5 minutes before application.
[0429] The weight ratio between composition A and composition B is preferably from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, better from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.
[0430] The total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is preferably from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0431] The total quantity of the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids is preferably from 0.2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, better still from 1 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0432] According to a particular embodiment, composition B comprises at least one associative polymer as defined above. The total content of the associative polymer(s) preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0433] Application of composition T in post-processing
[0434] According to another preferred embodiment, step (i) is carried out after step (ii).
[0435] Thus, in this embodiment, composition T is applied in post-processing.
[0436] Preferably, the post-treatment composition T is applied to the strands using a comb, brush, sponge, or fingers
[0437] Preferably, a drying step is implemented after the application of composition T in post-treatment. Particularly preferably, said step drying is implemented directly after the application of composition T, i.e. without any waiting time.
[0438] The application of the post-treatment composition T as defined above can be carried out between 15 and 40°C. Multi-compartment device (kit)
[0439] The present invention also relates to a hair coloring device comprising several compartments containing:
[0440] * in a first compartment, a composition T comprising:
[0441] - at least one mineral salt as defined above;
[0442] * in a second compartment, a composition C comprising:
[0443] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above;
[0444] - at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above;
[0445] - at least one coloring agent as defined above;
[0446] * optionally in a third compartment, a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as defined previously.
[0447] More preferably, the hair coloring device comprising several compartments contains:
[0448] * in a first compartment, a composition T:
[0449] - at least one mineral salt as defined above;
[0450] * in a second compartment, a composition A comprising at least one (Poly)carbodiimide compound as defined above
[0451] * in a third compartment, a composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from the carboxylic acids as defined above,
[0452] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one colouring agent as defined above.
[0453] * optionally in a fourth compartment, a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent as defined previously.
[0454] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting to the scope of the invention. However, the examples allow for the support of specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. EXAMPLES
[0455] The (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible by synthetic methods known to those skilled in the art, from commercial products or reagents synthesizable according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. of the profession. We can cite for example the work Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or the US patent US 4,284,730 or the Canadian application CA 2 509 861.
[0456] More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses in a first step a diisocyanate reagent (1): O=C=N-LrN=C=O (1),
[0457] formula (1) wherein Li is as defined previously which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4,284,730, in particular phosphorus catalysts especially chosen from phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza and oxazaphospholanes, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a polar solvent preferably aprotic such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between room temperature and solvent reflux, preferably around 140 °C; to give the compound carbodihnide diisocyanate (3): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)nN=C=O (3),
[0458] formula (3) in which Li and n are as defined previously. Benzoyl halogen such as benzoyl chloride may be added to deactivate the catalyst.
[0459] To obtain "symmetrical" (poly)carbodiimides, in the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined above, to give the "symmetrical" compound according to the invention (4): [R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)]2-E (4),
[0460] formula (4) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are as defined previously. According to a variant for obtaining compound (4) from (3) it is possible to add first 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent, then 1 eq. of Ri-XrH reagent.
[0461] To obtain "asymmetric" (poly)carbodiimides, in the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent RrXi-H and then 1 eq of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined above, to give compound (5):
[0462] R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EH (5),
[0463] formula (5) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are such as defined previously.
[0464] According to one variant for obtaining compound (5) from (3) it is possible to add first 1 eq. of reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of reagent HEH.
[0465] In a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6) R2-X2-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3'):
[0466] O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)ZN=C=O (3'),
[0467] formula (3') in which Li and z are as defined previously which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H with Lb R2, X2, and z as defined previously, to give rise to the asymmetric compound (7):
[0468] R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z-NH- C(O)-X2-R2 (7),
[0469] Formula (7) in which Rb Xb Lb R2, X2, n, z and E are such as defined previously.
[0470] It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=N-Lr (N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3') with 1 / w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H to give the compound (8): H-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH-C(O)-X2-R2(8),
[0471] formula (8) in which Lb R2, X2, z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer from 1 to 3, more preferably w = 1.
[0472] This last compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'): Ri-Xi-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)nN=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') can be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to give rise to the (poly)carbodihnide of the invention (9): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH C(O)-X2-R2 (9),
[0473] formula (9) in which Lb Rb Xb R2, X2, n, z, w, and E are such as defined previously.
[0474] (Poly)carbodihnide compounds, as well as all reaction intermediates and reactants, can be purified with conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and / or chromatography.
[0475] Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the (poly)carbodiimide compound
[0476] In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-l-phenyl-lH-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced under stirring.
[0477] The reaction medium was heated to 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, following the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm1, then cooled to 120°C.
[0478] A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium while stirring. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the total disappearance of the isocyanate functions followed by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm⁻¹, then cooled to room temperature.
[0479] After cooling to room temperature, the reaction mixture is poured dropwise under vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water to produce the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid. Example 2
[0480] Compositions A and B as described below in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared: quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g, unless otherwise stated.
[0481] [Tables 1] Composition A Polycarbodihnide (1) 17.5 Ethanol 82.5
[0482] (1) synthesized according to the synthesis process described in Example 1 (at 40% of material active in water),
[0483] [Tables2] Composition B Acrylates copolymer (2) 29.2 Red iron oxide (CI 77491) 12.0 Amodimethicone 3.0 Divinyldimethicone / Dimethicone copolymer (and) C12-13 Pareth-3 (and) C12-13 Pareth-23 (3) 10.2 Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate copolymer (4) 2.2 Ethanol 5.0 Pentylene glycol 1.9 1,2-Hexanediol 1.0 Preservatives qs Water qsp 100
[0484] (2) sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient)
[0485] (3) sold by the DOW CORNING company under the name DOW CORNING HMW 2220 NON-IONIC EMULSION (Divinyldimethicone / dimethicone block copolymer in aqueous emulsion) (60% active ingredient)
[0486] (4) sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the trade name ACULYN 22® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer with 30% active material).
[0487] Composition A was then mixed with composition B at a mass ratio of 50 / 50 to obtain composition C according to the invention.
[0488] Composition T with mineral salt:
[0489] The following mineral compositions T1 to T5 as described below in Table 3 were prepared: quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g, unless otherwise stated.
[0490] [Tables3] Compositions T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 Calcium chloride dihydrate 2.0 - - - - Zinc sulfate heptahydrate - 5.0 - - - Calcium sulfate - - 5.0 2.0 - Calcium sulfate dihydrate - - - - 5.0 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Protocol
[0491] According to a particular embodiment (pre-treatment), in the examples according to the invention, the hair strands were brought into contact with the treatment solution T, and the treatment solution T was left on the strands for a variable period of time at room temperature. The strands were then rinsed with water and dried with a hairdryer. Composition C was then applied with the fingers to the treated strands at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of strand. The strands were then dried with a hairdryer.
[0492] According to another particular embodiment (post-treatment), composition C was first applied to the hair strands with the fingers, at a rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of strand. Then, treatment solution T was applied to the colored strands at a rate of 0.5 g of composition per gram of strand. The strands were then dried with a hairdryer.
[0493] The treated hair strands were then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the color obtained with the shampoos. Shampoo protocol
[0494] The colored hair strands are combed, moistened under water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times for 5 seconds. The hair strands are then squeezed between two fingers.
[0495] A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) is applied evenly to the colored strands at a rate of 0.4g of standard shampoo per gram of strands, gently massaging the strands of hair along their length (6 passes) for 15 seconds, from root to tip.
[0496] The strands of hair are then placed in a watch glass and left to rest for 1 minute.
[0497] Next, the hair strands are rinsed with water by passing the strand between the fingers (15 passes). The hair strands are then squeezed dry between two fingers before the next shampoo.
[0498] Once the 5 shampoo tests have been carried out, the strands of hair are combed and blow-dried. Results
[0499] The persistence of the color of the highlights was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta CM3610A spectrophotometer (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0500] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0501] Color permanence is assessed by the color difference AEremanenceC between colored strands before shampooing, and then after 5 shampoos. The lower the AEremanence value, the more the color persists through shampooing.
[0502] The value of AErémanence is calculated according to the following equation: [°503] a / fr* r a2 2 / . V2 remanence — y \ " ^0 ) ) + ( £> Uq /
[0504] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on the colored hair strands after undergoing the 5 shampoos, and Lo*, a0* and b0* represent the values measured on the colored strands before the 5 shampoo test.
[0505] The results are summarized in Table 4 below:
[0506] [Tables4] Hair strand treatment Mineral salt of composition T Application time of 1 to composition T L* a* b* AE Strands before treatment - - 63 0 12 - Strands after application of composition C and before shampooing - - 33 27 20 - Highlights after application of composition C and after 5 shampoos (Comparison) - - 49 13 13 22 Highlights with: pre-treatment with composition T + application of composition C + 5 shampoos (Invention - pre-treatment) T1 Calcium chloride dihydrate 2% 30 min 44 17 14 15 T2 Zinc sulfate heptahydrate 5% 5 min 43 17 13 16 T2 Zinc sulfate heptahydrate 5% 30 min 39 17 13 13 T3 Calcium sulfate 5% 5 min 38 21 16 8 T3 Calcium sulfate 5% 30 min 39 21 15 9 T4 Calcium sulfate 2% 5 min 41 18 14 13 T4 Calcium sulfate 2% 30 min 41 20 15 12 T5 Calcium sulfate dihydrate 5% 5 min 43 17 14 16 T5 Calcium sulfate dihydrate 5% 30 min 43 17 14 15 Strands with: application of composition C T4 Calcium sulfate 2% post-treatment 42 19 15 12 + post-treatment with a T composition + 5 shampoos (Invention - post-treatment) T3 Calcium sulfate 5% post-treatment 43 16 13 16
[0507] Hair strands treated with composition T in pre-treatment and post-treatment (processes according to the invention) exhibit improved persistence compared to hair strands not treated with composition T (comparative process).
Claims
Demands
1. A hair coloring process comprising: (i) a step of treating the hair with a composition T comprising at least one mineral salt, and (ii) a step of applying to the hair at least one coloring composition C comprising: (1) at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound; (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids; and (3) at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
2. A process according to claim 1, characterized in that the mineral salt(s) are chosen from sulfates, chlorides, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sulfate salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably still from calcium sulfates.
3. A process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the mineral salt(s) is / are present in an amount from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably in an amount from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition T.
4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the exposure time of composition T is between 1 minute and 10 hours, more preferably between 5 minutes and 3 hours, more preferably still between 5 minutes and 1 hour, better between 5 minutes and 40 minutes.
5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition T is applied to the hair before or after composition C, preferably composition T is applied to the hair before composition C.
6. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a washing and / or rinsing step is carried out after the application of composition T as a pretreatment and before the application of composition C.
7. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is / are selected from the compounds of the following formula (I): in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - Ri and R2 independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group chosen from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxide such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and by one or more groups chosen from the following groups: alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl,hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehyde alkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylmylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkyl epoxides such as propyl epoxide or butyl epoxide, and azacyclopropane; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and - A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
8. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II): QA (II), A '>■■■>$' . >. ■■ A -AS ■■ < MH . ... .ST ' TO in which - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer from 1 to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in Ci-Ci8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-C15, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-C12, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-, in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms; - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms.
9. A process according to claim 8, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are selected from compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 are selected independently from dialkylaminoalcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w equals 1; - L1 is selected from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C1-C18, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or an arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a grouping chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;in which R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
10. A process according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is / are selected from compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxyl group has been removed; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical; - E independently represents a group selected from: -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;- when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and mixtures thereof.
11. A method according to any one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are chosen from compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI): R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and - E represents an -O-R3-O- group in which R3 is selected from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
12. A process according to any one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are selected from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - Ri and R2 independently represent the compound of the following formula (VI): R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R[3 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a CrC4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl group, Ru represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom, and q denotes an integer from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane;and - E represents a group- -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).;
13. A process according to any one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is / are selected from the compounds of the following formula (XII): û . A .N" ' ' ' o sV-N'' MHO j ? H rO < IS • (XII), in which Li is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a -O-R3-O- group in which R3 represents a linear or CrCi8 branched alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer from 4 to 30.
14. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
15. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids is an acrylic polymer.
16. A process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the acrylic polymer(s) comprise one or more motifs derived from the following monomers: a) (meth)acrylic acid; and b) alkyl (meth)acrylate in C1 to C30, preferably in C1 to C20, more preferably in C1 to C10, and even more preferably in C1 to C4.
17. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer(s) comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, preferably acrylic polymers, are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
18. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of colouring agent(s) selected from pigments, direct colourings, and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.
19. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a step of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and of applying composition C to the hair during step (ii), with: - composition A comprising (1) at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 7 to 13; - composition B comprising at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids as defined in any one of claims 1 and 15 to 16, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof as defined in claim 1.
20. A hair coloring method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, in order: (i) a step of treating the hair with a composition T comprising at least one mineral salt as defined in claims 1 or 2, (ii) a step of washing and / or rinsing the hair, (iii) a step of applying to the hair at least one coloring composition C comprising: (1) at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound as defined in any one of claims 7 to 13; (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids, as defined in claims 15 to 16; and (3) at least one coloring agent as defined in claim 1, and (iv) optionally the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.
21. A hair coloring device comprising several compartments containing: * in a first compartment, a composition T comprising: - at least one mineral salt as defined in claim 1 or 2, * in a second compartment, a composition A comprising: (1) at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound as defined in any one of claims 1 and 7 to 13, * in a third compartment, a composition B comprising: (2) at least one polymer comprising at least one reactive group selected from carboxylic acids as defined in any one of claims 1 and 15 to 16, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof as defined in claim 1.* optionally in a fourth compartment, a composition D comprising at least one acidifying agent, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.
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