SKIN CARE COMPOSITION AND PROCESS
A skincare composition with copper peptide complexes, C-glycosides, and laminaria digitata extract addresses the issue of collagen renewal decline, effectively stimulating collagen I production for anti-aging benefits.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024010558
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-08-21
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-01
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-27
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-10-01
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic products are inadequate in effectively resisting skin aging due to insufficient collagen production as collagen renewal decreases with age.
A skincare composition comprising copper peptide complexes, C-glycosides, and laminaria digitata extract is formulated to stimulate collagen I production.
The composition effectively stimulates collagen I production, providing an anti-aging effect on the skin.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: SKIN CARE COMPOSITION AND METHOD technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a skincare composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic skincare method. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Human skin consists of three compartments, namely a superficial compartment, which is the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, which is the hypodermis.
[0003] The dermis is primarily composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix (ECM). This extracellular matrix consists of various macromolecules responsible for the skin's mechanical resistance, suppleness, tone, and elasticity, as well as physiologically important functions (hydration, thermoregulation, and regulation of skin permeability). These macromolecules include, in particular, collagens, elastin, and glycoconjugates (glycoproteins and proteoglycans).
[0004] Collagens represent 70% of the proteins in the ECM. Naturally, collagens are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, resulting in thinning of the dermis.
[0005] A wide variety of cosmetic products are used to care for the skin, for example, to resist skin aging by stimulating collagen production. However, some cosmetic products on the market are not satisfactory in terms of resisting skin aging.
[0006] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a skin care composition that can effectively resist skin aging. Summary of the invention
[0007] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a skin care composition which can effectively resist skin aging.
[0008] Another object of the present invention is to propose a cosmetic skin care process.
[0009] The inventors have now discovered that the composition of the present invention can effectively resist skin aging.
[0010] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare, comprising: i. at least one copper peptide complex; ii. at least one C-glycoside; and iii. of laminaria digitata extract.
[0011] The inventors have discovered that the composition of the present invention can effectively resist skin aging by stimulating the production of collagen I.
[0012] In a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method of skin care, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin.
[0013] In a third aspect, the present invention proposes a use of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to provide an anti-aging effect on the skin.
[0014] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0015] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0016] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular, in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0017] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0018] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0019] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described These are approximate values which, if necessary, can be changed according to the desired objective.
[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "skin" is intended to cover human skin, including facial skin and lips. Facial skin is given particular consideration in the present invention.
[0021] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0022] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: i. at least one copper peptide complex; ii. at least one C-glycoside; and iii. of laminaria digitata extract. Copper peptide complexes
[0023] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one copper peptide complex.
[0024] As used herein, the expression "copper peptide complex" generally refers to a coordination compound comprising a peptide molecule and a copper(II) ion not covalently complexed therewith. As well understood in the art, copper(II) denotes a copper ion having a valence of 2 (i.e., Cu + 2). The peptide molecule acts as a complexing agent by donating electrons to the copper ion to produce the non-covalent complex. The peptide molecule is a chain of two or more amino acid motifs or amino acid-derived motifs covalently linked to each other via amide bonds (e.g., -CONH-), the formation of such bonds being accompanied by the elimination of water.
[0025] Generally, an amino acid consists of an amino group, a carboxyl group, a hydrogen atom, and a portion of an amino acid side chain, all linked, in the case of an alpha-amino acid, to a single carbon atom called the alpha carbon. Amino acid motifs may be provided by amino acids other than alpha-amino acids. For example, amino acids may be beta- or gamma-amino acids, such as those shown below. NILE H—C—COOH
[0026] alpha-amino acid nh2 H—Ç—(3¾—CO0I1
[0027] beta-amino acid NH2 FI—c—CH2—Œ2““COOn
[0028] gamma-amino acid
[0029] where X is the fraction of amino acid side chain bonded, with the amino group and hydrogen, to a carbon atom in alpha, beta or gamma.
[0030] By way of further example, amino acids include, but are not limited to, natural alpha-amino acids. Natural amino acids are those from which the amino acid motifs of natural proteins are derived. Some of these amino acids, along with their respective amino acid side-chain fractions, are listed below in Table A. The natural amino acids listed are all in the L configuration, with reference to the optical orientation of the alpha carbon or other carbon atom bearing the amino acid side chain. A peptide molecule of the present invention may also comprise amino acids that are in the D optical configuration, or a mixture of D and L amino acids.
[0031] [Table 1] Table A Side chain fractions of natural amino acids Side chain fraction of amino acids Amino acid —H Glycine —ch3 Alanine —CH(CH3)2 Valine —CH2CH(CH3)2 Leucine —CH(CH3)CH2CH3 Isoleucine —(CH2)4NH3+ Lysine —(CH2)3NHC(NH2)NH2+ Arginine CIL: INV' Histidine —CH2COO— Aspartic acid —CH2CH2COO— Glutamic acid —CH2CONH2 Asparagine —CH2CH2CONH2 Glutamine —C ïï?—yZZy Phenylalanine ——°H Tyrosine ...........'yy t......—............ H Tryptophan —CH2SH Cysteine —CH2CH2SH3 Methionine —CH2OH Serine —CH(OH)CH3 Threonine ch2----cm «LJ NH Proline
[0032] Other natural amino acids include hydroxyproline and gamma-carboxyglutamate.
[0033] Representative amino acid derivatives include those shown in Table B below.
[0034] [Table 2] Table B Amino acid derivatives N11—Cil—COOlI Where X2 = H or the following fractions: -(CH2)nCH3 where n = 1-20 —(CH2)nCH(CH3)(CH2)mCH3 where n, m = 0-20 (when n = 0, m 0 or 1 and when n = l,m^0) —(CH2)nNH2where n = 1-20 (n 4) —(CH2)nCONH2 where n = 3-20 —(CH2)nCOOH where n = 3-20 where n = 2-20 (CH?), --(CHA where n = 2-20 where n = 2-20 □H —(CH2)nSH where n = 2-20 —(CH2)nS(CH2)mCH3 where n, m = 1-20 (when n = 2, m 0) —(CH2)nCH2OH where n = 1-20 —(CH2)nCH(CH3)OH where n = 1-20 And where Xi = H or the following fractions: —(CH2)nCH3 where n = 0-20 —(CH2)nCH(CH3)(CH2)mCH3where n, m = 0-20
[0035] Histidine derivatives include compounds with the following structures: NII >--CII—C OO II
[0036] wherein n = 1-20, and Yi and Y2 are independently chosen from alkyl fractions containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms or an aryl fraction containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms. In some embodiments, n is 1, Y2 is methyl, and Yi is H (i.e., 3-methylhistidyl) or Y2 is H and Yi is methyl (i.e., 5-methylhistidine).
[0037] Similarly, arginine derivatives include structural compounds: NHs--CH —'COOH (CH2U NIÏ NILE
[0038] where n= 1-20 (except n=3).
[0039] As used herein, "alkyl" means a straight-chain or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon, cyclic or non-cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Representative saturated straight-chain alkyls include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, and the like, while saturated branched alkyls include isopropyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, isopentyl, and the like. Representative saturated cyclic alkyls include cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like; while unsaturated cyclic alkyls include cyclopentenyl, cyclohexenyl, and the like. Unsaturated alkyls contain at least one double or triple bond between adjacent carbon atoms (referred to respectively as "alkenyl" or "alkynyl").Representative alkenyls include ethenyl, 1-butenyl, isobutenyl, 2-methyl-2-butenyl, and similar compounds; while representative alkynyls include acetylenyl, 2-butynyl, 3-methyl-1-butynyl, and similar compounds.
[0040] Furthermore, as used herein, "aryl" means an aromatic carbocyclic fraction such as phenyl or naphthyl, and may be substituted or unsubstituted. "Arylalkyl" as used herein means an alkyl having at least one alkyl hydrogen atom replaced by a substituted or unsubstituted aryl fraction, such as benzyl (i.e., -CH2-phenyl, -(CH2)2-phenyl, -(CH2)3-phenyl, -CH(phenyl)2, and the like).
[0041] A copper peptide complex of the present invention may have the formula [Ri-R2-R3]:copper(II) where R3 is at least one amino acid or an amino acid derivative, as defined above, linked to R2 by a peptide bond (i.e., —C(=O)NH₂). —). When R3 is a single amino acid or amino acid derivative, then the peptide of the copper peptide complex is generally classified as a tripeptide. As another example of a copper peptide complex of the present invention corresponding to the formula [R1-R2-R3]:copper(II), R3 is a chemical fraction linked to fraction R2 by an amide bond. The term "chemical fraction," as used here and with reference to R3, includes any chemical fraction having an amino group capable of forming an amide bond with the carboxyl terminus of R2 (i.e., the carboxyl terminus of histidine, arginine, or their derivatives).
[0042] By way of a more specific example, where R3 is a chemical fraction linked to fraction R2 by an amide bond, R3 is —NH2, an alkylamino fraction having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or an arylamino fraction having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms. As used herein, an “alkylamino fraction” encompasses alkyl fractions containing an amino fraction, in which the alkyl fraction is as defined above, and includes, but is not limited to, octylamine and propylamine. Similarly, an “arylamino fraction” encompasses aryl fractions containing an amino fraction, in which the aryl fraction is as defined above, and includes, but is not limited to, benzylamine and benzyl-(CH2)M4-amine. Other examples of suitable chemical fractions having amino groups capable of forming an amide bond with the carboxyl terminus of R2 include polyamines such as spermine and spermidine.
[0043] It should be understood that R3 may include more than one chemical fraction. For example, additional amino acids or amino acid derivatives may be linked to the copper peptide complexes comprising the tripeptides described above to generate copper peptide complexes comprising peptides having four or more amino acids and / or amino acid derivatives. For illustrative purposes, Table C, shown below, presents various representative examples of copper peptide complexes used in or included in embodiments of the present invention.
[0044] [Table 3] Table C Representative peptide-copper complexes Examples of [Ri—R2]: copper(II) glycylhistidine: copper alanylhistidine: copper glycyl-(3-methyl)histidine: copper alanyl-(3-methyl)histidine: copper glycyl-(5-methyl)histidine: copper alanyl-(5-methyl)histidine: copper glycyl-arginine: copper alanyl-arginine: copper (N-methyl)glycine-histidine: copper (N-methyl)glycine-arginine: copper Examples of [Ri—R2—R3]: copper(II) where R3 is a chemical fraction linked by an amide bond glycyl-histidyl-NH2: copper glycyl-arginyl-NH2: copper glycyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-NH2: copper alanyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-NH2: copper glycyl-arginyl-NH2: copper alanyl-arginyl-NH2: copper (N-methyl)glycine-histidyl-NH2: copper (N-methyl)glycine-arginyl-NH2: copper glycyl-histidyl-NHoctyl: copper glycyl-arginyl-NHoctyl: copper Examples of [Ri—R2—R3]: copper(II) where R3 is an amino acid or amino acid derivative linked by a peptide bond glycyl-histidyl-lysine: copper glycyl-arginyl-lysine: copper glycyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-lysine: copper glycyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-lysine: copper alanyl-histidyl-lysine: copper alanyl-arginyl-lysine: copper alanyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-lysine: copper alanyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-lysine: copper glycyl-histidyl-phenylalanine: copper glycyl-arginyl-phenylalanine: copper glycyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine: copper glycyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine: copper alanyl-histidyl-phenylalanine: copper alanyl-arginyl-phenylalanine: copperalanyl-(3-methyl)histidylphenylalanine: copper; alanyl-(5-methyl)histidylphenylalanine: copper; glycyl-histidyl-lysyl-phenylalanyl-phenylalanine: copper; glycyl-arginyl-lysyl-phenylalanyl-phenylalanine: copper; glycyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-lysyl-phenylalanine; nyl-phenylalanyl: copper; glycyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-lysyl-phenylalanine; nyl-phenylalanyl: copper (N-methyl)glycylhistidyl-lysine: copper (N-methyl)glycyl-arginyl-lysine: copper; valyl-histidyl-lysine: copper; glycyl-histidyl-lysyl-prolyl-phenylalanyl-proline: copper; prolyl-histidyl-lysine: copper; leucyl-histidyl-lysine: copper glycyl-D-histidyl-L-lysine: copper seryl-histidyl-lysine: copper
[0045] Other examples of copper peptide complexes enclosed in embodiments of the present invention are disclosed in US patents Nos. 4,665,054; 4,760,051; 4,767,753; 4,810,693; 4,877,770; 5,023,237; 5,059,588; 5,118,665; 5,120,831; 5,164,367; 5,177,061; 5,214,032; 5,538,945; 5,550,183; and 6,017,888.
[0046] Examples of copper peptide complex derivatives, encompassed in embodiments of the present invention, include, but are not limited to, those disclosed and described in the aforementioned US patents relating to copper peptide complexes, as well as those disclosed and described in the published PCT application bearing International Publication Number WO 94 / 03482.
[0047] Preferably, the peptide in the copper peptide complex comprises at least two amino acid motifs, preferably three amino acid motifs, covalently linked together via amide bonds, and the amino acid motifs are selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, lysine, arginine, histidine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, cysteine, methionine, serine, threonine, proline, hydroxyproline and gamma-carboxyglutamate.
[0048] Preferably, the peptide-to-copper molar ratio in the copper-peptide complex ranges from about 1:1 to about 3:1.
[0049] Preferably, the copper peptide complex is selected from glycyl-histidyl-lysine:copper, glycyl-arginyl-lysine:copper, glycyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-lysine:copper, glycyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-lysine:copper, alanyl-histidyl-lysine:copper, alanyl-arginyl-lysine:copper, alanyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-lysine:copper, alanyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-lysine:copper, glycyl-histidyl-phenylalanine:copper, glycyl-arginyl-phenylalanine:copper, glycyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine:copper, glycyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine:copper, alanyl-histidyl-phenylalanine:copper, alanyl-arginyl-phenylalanine: copper, alanyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine: copper, alanyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine: copper, (N-methyl)glycyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, (N-methyl)glycyl-arginyl-lysine: copper, valyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, prolyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, leucyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, glycyl-D-histidyl-lysine: copper, seryl-histidyl-lysine: copperand their combinations.
[0050] More preferably, the copper peptide complex is chosen from L-alanyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine:copper(II) (“AHK-Cu”), L-valyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine:copper(II) (“VHK-Cu”), glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine:copper(II) (“GHK-Cu”), and their combinations.
[0051] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises copper tripeptide-1.
[0052] Advantageously, the copper peptide complex is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.00001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C-glycosides
[0053] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.
[0054] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from compounds of formula (I): zX-R (I) S---7 (D
[0055] in which:
[0056] - R represents a saturated alkyl radical in C1 to C10, in particular in C1 to C4, which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated CrC4 alkyl radical,
[0057] - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar motifs, in particular up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and
[0058] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more specifically a radical -CH(OH)-,
[0059] the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or [3, and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers.
[0060] The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R designates a linear alkyl radical saturated in Ci-C6, in particular in Ci-C4, preferably in CrC2 and more preferably, a methyl radical.
[0061] In particular, alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention include methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.
[0062] According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used, for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all the above definitions.
[0063] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L- arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.
[0064] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar motifs can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.
[0065] More particularly, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.
[0066] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used, for which:
[0067] - R denotes an alkyl radical in the Ci-C4 form, in particular in the linear unsubstituted Ci-C2 form, including a methyl radical;
[0068] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
[0069] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and, of preferably a -CH(OH)- group.
[0070] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Examples also include salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. In particular, examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.
[0071] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; examples include 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino- 2-(hydroxymethyl)-l,3-propanediol. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine can also be mentioned.
[0072] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0073] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.
[0074] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051828.
[0075] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds that are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be cited in particular:
[0076] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0077] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0078] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0079] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0080] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0081] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0082] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0083] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0084] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0085] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0086] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0087] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0088] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0089] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0090] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0091] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0092] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0093] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0094] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0095] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0096] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0097] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0098] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0099] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.
[0100] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and even better C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can be advantageously used for the composition according to the invention.
[0101] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol).
[0102] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Extract from Laminaria digitata
[0103] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one extract of laminaria digitata.
[0104] Laminaria digitata is a large, dark brown, iodine- and sodium-rich brown alga. It is found in cold seas and oceans, particularly in the North Sea and the North Atlantic. It is found in abundance along the coasts of Great Britain and Ireland, Iceland, Russia, and Brittany.
[0105] The extract of Laminaria digitata is preferably obtained by water leaching, filtration and concentration by reverse osmosis.
[0106] As an example of commercial products of Laminaria digitata extract, one can cite those sold under the name of PHYCOJUVENINE DIG ALG147 by the company CODIF.
[0107] Advantageously, the extract of laminaria digitata is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.00001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00005% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001% by weight to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0108] The inventors discovered that the combination of (i) at least one copper peptide complex; (ii) at least one C-glycoside; and (iii) an extract of laminaria digitata can lead to a synergistic effect on the production of collagen I.
[0109] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the copper peptide complex: C-glycoside: laminaria digitata extract is 1:1-500:0.01-1, preferably 1:10-400:0.02-0.5. Aqueous phase
[0110] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous phase.
[0111] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water.
[0112] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99.99% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 99.99% by weight, more preferably from 80% by weight to 99.60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0113] Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature at 25 °C) selected from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.
[0114] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 99.99% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 99.99% by weight, more preferably from 80% by weight to 99.60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients
[0115] The composition of the present invention may include an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the cosmetic active ingredients as defined above.
[0116] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional cosmetic active ingredients according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives
[0117] The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
[0118] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0119] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 0.001 wt% to 1 wt% of copper-1 tripeptide; ii. from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; And iii. from 0.0001% by weight to 2% by weight of laminaria digitata extract.
[0120] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 0.001 wt% to 0.5 wt% of copper tripeptide-1; ii. 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; and iii. from 0.0002% by weight to 0.5% by weight of laminaria digitata extract. pharmaceutical form and process
[0121] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, a cream, a lotion or a hydrogel, and can be used as a toner, a lotion, a light cream, a nourishing cream, a night mask or an eye cream.
[0122] The composition of the present invention can be used for skin care. In particular, the composition of the present invention can deliver an anti-aging effect to the skin.
[0123] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method of skin care, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin.
[0124] In certain embodiments, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic skin care method, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin.
[0125] In a third aspect, the present invention proposes a use of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to provide an anti-aging effect on the skin. EXAMPLES
[0126] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0127] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0128] [Table 4] Table 1 INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Copper Tripeptide-1 (Copper tripeptide-1) SPECPED GHK-CU (1.0%) SPECCHEM IN DUSTRY Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol (Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) MEXORYL SCS NOVEAL Laminaria Digitata Extract (Laminaria digitata extract) PHYCOJUVENINE DIG ALG 147 CODIF Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2
[0129] Compositions of the example of the invention (El) 1 and comparative examples (EC) 1 and 2 were prepared based on the quantities of components given in the Table 2. Quantities are given as a percentage by weight of each component relative to the total weight of the composition, MA meaning active substance.
[0130] [Table 5] Table 2 Components El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 Copper tripeptide-1 0.004 (MA) 0.004 (MA) 0 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 0.8 (MA) 0 0.8 (MA) Laminaria digitata extract 0.0003 (MA) 0 0.0003 (MA) Water QS100 QS100 QS100
[0131] The composition of inventive example 1 represents a composition according to the present invention.
[0132] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one C-glycoside and an extract of laminaria digitata.
[0133] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one copper peptide.
[0134] Preparation process:
[0135] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: addition of copper-1 tripeptide, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and laminaria digitata extract according to the corresponding amounts in Table 2 slowly in water with stirring at room temperature to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Assessment
[0136] The effect of the above-prepared compositions on collagen I production was tested as follows. 1. Cell inoculation:
[0137] The fibroblasts were revived, and when the pose rate reached approximately 60%, the cells were seeded into 6-well plates and cultured overnight in an incubator with CO2 (37°C, 5% CO2). 1. Solution preparation:
[0138] The working solutions were prepared according to the test groups listed in Table 3.
[0139] [Table 6] Table 3 Groups Sample Blank Control (BC) / Negative control (NC) / Positive control (PC) TGF-[31 Test samples Compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1-2 1. Administration:
[0140] The groups were administered according to Table 3. Culture medium was added to each well for the blank control group and the negative control group. The same volume of culture medium containing TGF-
[31] was added to each well for the positive control group. The same volume of culture solution containing a corresponding concentration of active ingredients in the culture medium was added to each well for the test sample groups. 1. UVA irradiation: all groups except the blank control group were subjected to UVA irradiation. After irradiation, they were placed in an incubator with CO2 (37 °C, 5% CO2) for subsequent culture. 2. Immunofluorescence detection and gene expression detection were performed.
[0141] The growth rates (%) were calculated according to the following equations:
[0142] Growth rate (%) = (test group - NC group) / NC group * 100% 1. Statistics and Results Analysis: GraphPad Prism was used for plotting, and results are expressed as mean ± standard deviation. Comparisons between groups were performed using a t-test. For group BC, significance is represented by #, p < 0.05 by #, and p < 0.01 by ##; for group NC, significance is represented by *, p < 0.05 by *, and p < 0.01 by **.
[0143] The PCR data for collagen I have been summarized in Table 4.
[0144] [Table 7] Table 4 Concentration (ng / mL) P Value Rate of increase (%) Mean ET BC 46.33 0.56 / / NC 26.86 0.56 0.000## / PC 35.04 0.86 0.000** 30.45 Composition of El. 1 87.59 1.61 0.000** 226.10 Composition of EC.1 43.79 1.10 0.000** 63.03 Composition of EC.2 47.62 0.73 0.000** 77.29
[0145] It can be seen from Table 4 that the composition of inventive example 1 shows a better stimulating effect on the production of collagen I than the compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2; the combination of at least one copper peptide, at least one C-glycoside and extract of laminaria digitata can lead to a synergistic effect on the production of collagen I.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: (i) at least one copper peptide complex; (ii) at least one C-glycoside; and (iii) Laminaria digitata extract.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the copper peptide complex is selected from glycyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, glycyl-arginyl-lysine: copper, glycyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-lysine: copper, glycyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-lysine: copper, alanyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, alanyl-arginyl-lysine: copper, alanyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-lysine: copper, alanyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-lysine: copper, glycyl-histidyl-phenylalanine: copper, glycyl-arginyl-phenylalanine: copper, glycyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine: copper, glycyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine: copper, alanyl-histidyl-phenylalanine: copper, alanyl-arginyl-phenylalanine: copper, alanyl-(3-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine: copper, alanyl-(5-methyl)histidyl-phenylalanine: copper, (N-methyl)glycyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, (N-methyl)glycyl-arginyl-lysine: copper, valyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, prolyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, leucyl-histidyl-lysine: copper, glycyl-D-histidyl-L-lysine: copperSeryl-histidyl-lysine-lysine: copper, and their combinations: preferably selected from L-alanyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine: copper(II), L-valyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine: copper(II), glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine: copper(II), and their combinations; more preferably, the copper peptide complex is copper tripeptide-1.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the copper peptide complex is present in an amount from 0.00001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - 1 -(C- [3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-glucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - 1 -(C- [3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the C-glycoside is present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the extract of laminaria digitata is present in an amount from 0.00001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00005% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: i. 0.001% by weight to 0.5% by weight of copper tripeptide-1; ii. 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; and iii. 0.0002% by weight to 0.5% by weight of laminaria digitata extract.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the weight ratio copper peptide complex: C-glycoside: laminaria digitata extract is 1:1-500:0.01-1, preferably 1:10-400:0.02-0.
5.
9. Non-therapeutic skin care method, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the skin.
10. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to provide an anti-aging effect on the skin.