W / H COMPOSITION COMPRISING A METALLIC CATATION AND AN IONICALLY CROSS-CROSSED CATIONIC POLYMER

Abstract

W / H COMPOSITION COMPRISING A METALLIC CATION AND AN IONICALLY CROSS-CUT CATIONIC POLYMER The present invention relates to a composition comprising a plurality of aqueous phases comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts; and (c) at least one source of supply of metal cation, and an oily phase comprising: (e) at least one oil, in which the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase, the (a) cationic polymer being selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof, and the concentration of metal cation in the composition being 0.030% by weight or more, preferably 0.035% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.040% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to the present invention can be stable and can reduce the formation of pilling on the skin after application to a keratinous material such as skin. Figure for the abstract: none.

Description

Title of the invention: W / H COMPOSITION COMPRISING A METALLIC CATATION AND AN IONICALLY CROSS-CROSSED CATIONIC POLYMER technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a W / O (water in oil) composition comprising a specific minimum content metal cation and an ionically crosslinked cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, and to a cosmetic process using the composition. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] As is known in art, certain cosmetic compositions use a polyionic complex, which is formed with an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer.

[0003] For example, document WO 2021 / 125069 discloses a composition that is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values. Document WO 2021 / 125069 also discloses that the composition disclosed therein may include oil and may be in the form of an emulsion. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0004] However, the composition disclosed in document WO 2021 / 125069 was found to be stable only when it included a very limited amount of oil, such as 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When the composition disclosed therein includes a relatively large amount of oil, it tends to be unstable. Thus, the composition disclosed in document WO 2021 / 125069 is in the form of oil in water (O / W).

[0005] On the other hand, a composition including a certain type of polymer(s) to form a complex may lead to the formation of pilling on the skin after application to a keratinous material such as skin due to the aggregation of the polymer(s) or the complex.

[0006] Thus, there is a need for a stable W / O composition which includes one or more polymers which can form a complex but the composition can reduce the formation of pilling on the skin after application on a keratinous material such as skin.

[0007] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a stable W / H composition which includes one or more polymers which can form a complex but which may reduce the formation of pilling on the skin after application to a keratinous material such as skin.

[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably, a cosmetic composition for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising:

[0009] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising: a. at least one cationic polymer; b. at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts; c. at least one source of supply of metal cation,

[0010] and

[0011] a fatty phase comprising:

[0012] (e) at least one oil,

[0013] in which

[0014] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase,

[0015] the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof, and

[0016] the concentration of the metal cation in the composition is 0.030% by weight or more, preferably 0.035% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.040% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The (b) non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts may be an organic acid or one of its salts, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or one of its salts, and more preferably phytic acid or one of its salts.

[0019] The quantity of (b) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more pKa values ​​or of their salt(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The (c) source of supply of metal cation can be chosen from alkali metal salts and alkali metal hydroxides, preferably inorganic alkali metal salts and inorganic alkali metal hydroxides, and more preferably inorganic sodium salts such as sodium chloride and sodium hydroxides.

[0021] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one anionic polymer.

[0024] The (f) anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers, anionic (co)polyamino acids such as glutamic (co)polyacids, (meth)acrylic (co)polyacids, amic (co)polyacids, styrene (co)polysulfonate, vinyl (co)poly(sulfates), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, maleic (co)polyacids, fumaric polyacids, maleic acid (co)polymers, and their salts.

[0025] The quantity of the (f) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one fatty acid, preferably selected from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, more preferably in C6-C24 and even more preferably in C8-C22.

[0027] The quantity of the (g) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% to 70% by weight, preferably from 45% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising:

[0031] the application to keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0032] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous material. Best embodiment of the invention

[0033] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a stable W / O composition which includes one or more polymers which can form a complex while reducing the formation of pilling on the skin after application to a keratinous material such as skin.

[0034] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0035] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising: a. at least one cationic polymer; b. at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts; c. at least one source of supply of metal cations,

[0036] and

[0037] a fatty phase comprising:

[0038] (e) at least one oil,

[0039] in which

[0040] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase,

[0041] the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof, and

[0042] the concentration of the metal cation in the composition is 0.030% by weight or more, preferably 0.035% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.040% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] The (a) cationic polymer can be ionically crosslinked by the (b) non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts. Thus, the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts can form a complex.

[0044] If the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one anionic polymer, the complex may be a polyionic complex.

[0045] The composition according to the present invention can be stable and can reduce the formation of pilling on the skin after application to a keratinous material such as skin.

[0046] Since the composition according to the present invention includes metal cations at a concentration of 0.030% by weight or more, preferably 0.035% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.040% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition according to the present invention can be stable and can reduce the formation of pilling on the skin when applied to a keratinous material such as skin.

[0047] Since polylysines and chitosans can be obtained from natural resources, (a) the cationic polymer is an environmentally friendly ingredient. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0048] The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of aqueous phases, in the form of dispersed or discontinuous phases, comprising (d) water.

[0049] The composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty phase, as a continuous phase, comprising (e) oil. If the composition according to the present invention comprises (g) at least one fatty acid and / or (h) at least one organo-modified clay as explained later, it / they may be present in the fatty phase.

[0050] The (a) cationic polymer can be hydrophobicated by the (g) fatty acid. A portion of the hydrophobicated (a) cationic polymer can be present between the oil phase and the aqueous phases to further stabilize the aqueous phases. Thus, the aqueous phases can be dispersed even more stably within the oil phase.

[0051] The composition according to the present invention is stable for a long period. In other words, phase separation of the composition according to the present invention can be prevented for a long period.

[0052] Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period.

[0053] The composition according to the present invention may be particularly useful for a foundation or makeup base which includes a large amount of an oily phase, as it can also offer long-lasting makeup and / or hydration effects.

[0054] The present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0055] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0056] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising: a. at least one cationic polymer; b. at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts; c. at least one source of supply of metal cation,

[0057] and

[0058] a fatty phase comprising:

[0059] (e) at least one oil,

[0060] in which

[0061] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase,

[0062] the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof, and

[0063] the concentration of the metal cation in the composition is 0.030% by weight or more, preferably 0.035% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.040% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] In the composition according to the present invention, the concentration of metal cation is 0.030% by weight or more, preferably 0.035% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.040% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] The concentration of metal cation in the composition according to the present invention may be 2% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] The concentration of metal cation in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.030% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.035% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.040% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Cationic Polymer)

[0067] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer.

[0068] There is no limit to the type of (a) cationic polymer as long as (a) cationic polymer is chosen from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof. Two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.

[0069] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of (a) the cationic polymer can be between 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably between 0.05 and 15 meq / g, and more preferably between 0.1 and 10 meq / g.

[0070] The (a) cationic polymer can be included in the aqueous phase including (d) water.

[0071] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and, more preferably, less than 10,000. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer may be low molecular weight polylysine or chitosan.

[0072] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and, more preferably, greater than 2,000.

[0073] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer can be greater than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably greater than 2,000 and less than 10,000.

[0074] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight by weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0075] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer can be chosen from polylysines.

[0076] Polylysine is well known.

[0077] Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be ε-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Poly-L-lysine is preferred. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and / or a solution.

[0078] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer can be chosen from chitosans.

[0079] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0080] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3 (1,4) type bond.

[0081] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [>-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0082] The "chitosan" according to the present invention refers to any copolymer formed from constituent N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine motifs, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4)] type bonds and is a Poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) polymer.

[0083] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0084] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0085] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or from biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0086] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or from a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0087] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but it is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0088] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it contains no chemical modification.

[0089] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in document WO03 / 068824.

[0090] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Glentham Life Science under the name GU3511.

[0091] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Furthermore, the quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] (Non-polymer acid having two or more acid dissociation constants)

[0095] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts, i.e., at least one non-polymer acid having two or more acid dissociation constants or a of its salts. The pKa value (acid dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art and must be determined at a constant temperature such as 25 °C.

[0096] The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values, or one of its salts, may be included in the aqueous phase including (d) water. The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may function as a crosslinking agent for the (a) cationic polymer.

[0097] The term "non-polymer" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, a non-polymer acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers, such as polyacrylic acid.

[0098] Preferably the molecular weight of the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or of one of its salts is 1000 or less, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably 700 or less.

[0099] There is no limit to the type of (b) nonpolymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts. Two or more different types of (b) nonpolymer acids having two or more pKa values ​​or their salts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) nonpolymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts, or a combination of different types of (b) nonpolymer acids having two or more pKa values ​​or their salts, may be used.

[0100] The term "salt" herein means a salt formed by the addition of suitable base(s) to a non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values, which can be obtained from a reaction with the non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​with the base(s) according to processes known to those skilled in the art. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0101] The non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts may be an organic acid or one of its salts, and preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or one of its salts.

[0102] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may have at least two acid groups selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, a phenolic hydroxyl group, and a mixture thereof.

[0103] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may be a non-polymeric polyvalent acid such as phosphoric acid.

[0104] The non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​may be chosen from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids and diphosphoric acids, and one of their mixtures.

[0105] The (b) non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid and their salts; aspartic acid, glutamic acid and their salts; sulfonic acid terephthalylidene diamphr or their salts (Mexoryl SX), Benzophenone-9; phytic acid and its salts;Red 2 (Amaranth), Red 102 (New Coccine), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue 1 (Brillant blue FCF), Blue 2 (Indigo Carminé), Red 201 (Lithol Rubine B), Red 202 (Lithol Rubine B), (Lithol Rubine BCA), Red 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red 220 (Deep Maroon), Red 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green 201 (Alizanine Cyanine Green F), Green 204 (Pyranine Conc), Green 205 (Light Green SF Yellowish), Blue 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue 205 (Alfazurine FG), Red 401 (Violamine R), Red 405 (Permanent Re F5R), Red 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red 503 (Ponceau R), Red 504 (Ponceau SX), Green 401 (Naphthol Green B), Green 402 (Guinea Green B), and Black 401 (Naphthol Blue Black); acide folique, acide ascorbique, acide erythorbique et leurs sels ; cystine et ses sels ; EDTA et ses sels ; glycyrrhizine et ses sels ; et un de leurs mélanges. ;

[0106] It may be preferable that the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts be chosen from the group consisting of terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid and its salts (Mexoryl SX), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), ascorbic acid, phytic acid and its salts, and one of their mixtures.

[0107] The (b) non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts may be an organic acid or one of its salts, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or one of its salts, and more preferably phytic acid or one of its salts.

[0108] The amount of (b) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more pKa values ​​or their salt(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.003% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.005% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] Furthermore, the quantity of (b) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more pKa values ​​or their salt(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Thus, the quantity of (b) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more pKa values ​​or their salt(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Source of supply of metal cation)

[0111] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one source of supply of metal cation. If two or more sources of supply of metal cation are used, they may be identical or different.

[0112] There is no limitation for the (c) source of supply of metal cation as long as it can supply the composition according to the present invention with metal cation.

[0113] It is preferable that (c) the source of supply of metal cation be soluble in water. The expression "soluble in water" here means that 10 g or more, preferably 20 g or more, and more preferably 30 g or more of (c) the source of supply of metal cation can be dissolved in 100 mL of water at 20 °C.

[0114] In one embodiment, the (c) source of supply of metal cation can be chosen from inorganic salts, preferably from water-soluble inorganic salts, and more preferably from water-soluble inorganic salts including a metal cation, as well as at least one anion.

[0115] The anion forming the inorganic salt is not limited. Examples of such anions include halogen anions, sulfate anions, sulfite anions, phosphate anions, nitrite anions, nitrate anions, and carbonate anions. It may be preferable for the anion to be chosen from among halogen anions, particularly chloride anions, sulfates, and carbonates. Thus, the inorganic salt may preferably be chosen from the group consisting of halides, sulfates, and carbonates.

[0116] In one embodiment, the (c) source of supply of metal cation can be selected from alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] It is preferable that the (c) source of supply of metal cation be chosen from alkali metal salts and alkali metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] The (c) source of supply of the metal cation can be chosen from inorganic sodium salts. Examples of inorganic sodium salts include inorganic sodium halides such as sodium chloride, sulfate of inorganic sodium, inorganic sodium phosphate, inorganic sodium nitrate and inorganic sodium carbonate.

[0119] It is preferable that the (c) source of supply of metal cation be chosen from alkali metal salts, preferably inorganic alkali metal salts, more preferably inorganic sodium salts, and even more preferably sodium halides such as sodium chloride.

[0120] It is also preferable that the (c) source of supply of metal cation can be chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, preferably inorganic alkali metal hydroxides, and more preferably sodium hydroxides.

[0121] In one embodiment, the (c) source of supply of metal cation can be chosen from alkali metal salts and alkali metal hydroxides, preferably inorganic alkali metal salts and inorganic alkali metal hydroxides, and more preferably inorganic sodium salts such as sodium chloride and sodium hydroxides.

[0122] The quantity of the (c) source(s) of supply of metal cation in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] Furthermore, the quantity of the (c) source(s) of supply of metal cation in the composition according to the present invention may be 2% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] Thus, the quantity of the (c) source(s) of supply of metal cation in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0125] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

[0126] (d) water can constitute the aqueous phases, which can be dispersed or discontinuous phases, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0127] The quantity of (d) water may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Furthermore, the quantity of (d) water may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] Thus, the quantity of (d) water can be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Oil)

[0130] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0131] The oil(s) may constitute a fatty phase, which may be a continuous phase, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0132] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0133] The (e) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0134] The (e) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0135] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0137] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0138] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0139] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0140] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, and carbonate may be mentioned. dicaprylyl, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0141] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, may also be used.

[0142] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0143] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C12-C22, may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0144] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0145] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of fatty acids in the range of C6-C30, and preferably C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0146] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0147] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0148] Monoesters and diesters are used in particular, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0149] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0150] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, the following may be cited, for example: diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0152] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0153] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0154] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0155] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0156] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and more particularly from: i. Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane cyclocopolymers, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula:

[0157] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and i. Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0158] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups, such as dimethicone.

[0159] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0160] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0161] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0162] - oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and

[0163] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0164] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0165] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0166] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0167] in which

[0168] - Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, radicals based of saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0169] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0170] provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.

[0171] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

[0172] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range of Rhodia;

[0173] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0174] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0175] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;

[0176] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0177] As a phenylsilicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (Ri to R10 are a methyl; p, qetn = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0178] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0179] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0180] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0181] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam# and squalane.

[0182] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, a mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), a paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; a hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and a decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0183] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0184] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0185] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0186] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0187] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, preferably from saturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably from saturated Ci2-C20 alcohols, linear or branched.

[0188] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may preferably be used. Any fatty alcohols Saturated, linear, or branched Cl6-C2O fatty alcohols can be used more preferentially. Branched Cl6-C2O fatty alcohols can be used even more preferentially.

[0189] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0190] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] It may be preferable to choose the (e) oil from among synthetic ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] Furthermore, the quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] Thus, the quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Anionic polymer)

[0195] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one anionic polymer. Only one type of anionic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of anionic polymers may be used in combination.

[0196] An anionic polymer has a negative charge density. The charge density of the (f) anionic polymer may be from 0.1 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 1 meq / g to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 4 meq / g to 10 meq / g if the (f) anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, and the average degree of substitution of the (f) anionic polymer may be from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.7, and higher preferably from 0.3 to 2.5 if the (f) anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer.

[0197] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (f) anionic polymer be 1,000 or more, preferably 2,000 or more, even more preferably 5,000 or more, even more preferably 10,000 or more, even more preferably 50,000 or more, even more preferably 100,000, and even more preferably 1,000,000 or more.

[0198] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, "molecular weight" may refer to an average molecular weight by weight.

[0199] The (f) anionic polymer may have at least one negatively chargeable and / or negatively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a sulfuric group, a sulfate group, a sulfonic group, a sulfonate group, a phosphoric group, a phosphate group, a phosphonic group, a phosphonate group, a carboxylic group and a carboxylate group.

[0200] The (f) anionic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0201] The (f) anionic polymer can be selected from natural and synthetic anionic polymers, and preferably from natural anionic polymers.

[0202] The (f) anionic polymer may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain.

[0203] The (f) anionic polymer, which may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain, can be obtained by copolymerization of a monomer (a) selected from carboxylic acids comprising an α,[3-ethylenic unsaturation (monomer α') and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (monomer α") with a surface-inactive monomer (b) comprising an ethylenic unsaturation other than (α) and / or a monomer (c) comprising an ethylenic unsaturation resulting from the reaction of an acrylic monomer comprising an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation or an isocyanate monomer comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation with a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic component or with a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0204] Thus, the (f) anionic polymer with at least one hydrophobic chain can be obtained by two synthetic routes:

[0205] - either by copolymerization of monomers (a1) and (c), or (a1), (b) and (c), or (a") and (c), or (a"), (b) and (c),

[0206] - either by modification (and in particular by esterification or amidation) of a copolymer formed from monomers (a1) or monomers (a1) and (b), or (a") and (b), by a non-ionic amphiphilic monohydric compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0207] Examples of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers include those disclosed in the article "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704" and in applications EP-A-0 750 899 and EP-A-1 069 172.

[0208] The carboxylic acid comprising an α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturation constituting the monomer (α1) can be chosen from many acids and, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid. Preferably, it is acrylic or methacrylic acid.

[0209] The copolymer may include a monomer (b) comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation that has no surfactant properties. Preferred monomers are those that give water-insoluble polymers when homopolymerized. They may be selected, for example, from the Ci-C4 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, or the corresponding methacrylates. The most preferred monomers are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. Other monomers that may be used are, for example, styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile, and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, these monomers being those in which the single ethylenic group is the only reactive group under the polymerization conditions.However, monomers that include groups that react under the effect of heat, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, may be used optionally.

[0210] Monomer (c) is obtained by reacting an acrylic monomer comprising the α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as (a), or an isocyanate monomer comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation with a nonionic amphiphilic monohydric compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0211] The amphiphilic nonionic monohydric compounds or the primary or secondary fatty amines used to produce the nonionic monomer (c) are well known. The amphiphilic nonionic monohydric compounds are generally hydrophobic alkoxylated compounds comprising an alkylene oxide forming the hydrophilic portion of the molecule. The hydrophobic compounds are generally composed of an aliphatic alcohol or an alkylphenol, wherein the compounds comprise a carbon chain of at least six carbon atoms that constitute the hydrophobic portion of the compounds.

[0212] Preferred monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compounds are compounds corresponding to the following formula (V):

[0213] R-(OCH2CHR')m-(OCH2CH2)n-OH (V)

[0214] wherein R is selected from alkyl or alkylene groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylaryl groups having alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R' is selected from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is an average number from approximately 1 to 150 and m is an average number from approximately 0 to 50, provided that n is at least as large as m.

[0215] Preferably, in compounds of formula (V), the R group is selected from alkyl groups comprising 12 to 26 carbon atoms and alkylphenyl groups in which the alkyl group is C8-Ci3; the R' group is the methyl group; m = 0 and n = 1 to 25.

[0216] Preferred primary and secondary fatty amines are composed of one or two alkyl chains comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0217] The monomer used to form the nonionic urethane monomer (c) can be chosen from a wide variety of compounds. Any compound comprising a copolymerizable unsaturation, such as an acrylic, methacrylic, or allylic unsaturation, can be used. Monomer (c) can be obtained in particular from an isocyanate comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation, such as, in particular, α,α-dimethyl-μ-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate.

[0218] Monomer (c) may be selected, in particular, from among acrylates, methacrylates or oxyethylenated fatty alcohol itaconates (1 to 50 EO) C6-C30, such as steareth-20 methacrylate, oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO), oxyethylenated monocetyl itaconate (20 EO), oxyethylenated monostearyl itaconate (20 EO) or polyoxyethylenated alcohol-modified acrylate (25 EO) Ci2-C24 and from among dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanates of oxyethylenated fatty alcohol (1 to 50 EO) C6-C30, such as, in particular, dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol.

[0219] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the (f) anionic polymer is selected from acrylic terpolymers obtained from (a) a carboxylic acid comprising an α,[3-ethylenic unsaturation, (b) a surface-nonactive monomer comprising an ethylenic unsaturation other than (a), and (c) a nonionic urethane monomer that is the reaction product of a nonionic monohydric amphiphilic compound with an isocyanate comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation.

[0220] Reference may in particular be made to (f) anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymer, such as the product in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Acusol 823 by Rohm & Haas; of acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas; of (meth)acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylened behenyl methacrylate (25 EO) terpopolymer, such as the product in the form of an aqueous emulsion sold under the name Aculyn-28 by Rohm & Haas; of acrylic acid / oxyethylenated monocetyl itaconate copolymer (20 EO), such as the product in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch;of acrylic acid / oxyethylenated monostearyl itaconate copolymer (20°EO), such as the product in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Structure 2001 by National Starch; of acrylates / acrylate modified by polyoxyethyl alcohol copolymer (25 EO) Ci2-C24, such as the 30-32% latex copolymer sold under the name Synthalen W2000 by 3V SA; or of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol dimethyl-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate terpolymer, such as the product in the form of a 24% aqueous dispersion and comprising 40 ethylene oxide groups disclosed in document EP-A-0 173 109.

[0221] The (f) anionic polymers may also be Polyester-5, such as the product sold under the name Eastman AQ™ 55S Polymer by EASTMAN CHEMICAL corresponding to a chemical formula below.

[0222] HO-GAGAGAGAGAGAGAGAG-OH

[0223] 11

[0224] SO3 Na+ SO3 Na+

[0225] A: dicarboxylic acid fraction

[0226] G: glycol fraction

[0227] SO3 Na+: sodium sulfo group

[0228] OH: hydroxyl group

[0229] It may be preferable that the (f) anionic polymer be chosen from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids such as glutamic (co)polyacids, (meth)acrylic (co)polyacids, amic (co)polyacids, styrene (co)polysulfonate, vinyl (co)poly(sulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, maleic (co)polyacids, fumaric (co)polyacids, maleic acid (co)polymers, and their salts.

[0230] The maleic acid copolymer may comprise one or more maleic acid comonomers, and one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms and styrene.

[0231] Thus, "maleic acid copolymer" means any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic acid comonomers and one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene or isooctylene, and styrene, the maleic acid comonomers being optionally partially or completely hydrolyzed. Hydrophilic polymers, namely polymers having a water solubility greater than or equal to 2 g / L, are preferably used.

[0232] In an advantageous aspect of the present invention, the maleic acid copolymer may have a mole fraction of maleic acid motifs between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.

[0233] The average molar mass by weight of the maleic acid copolymer can be between 1,000 and 500,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 50,000.

[0234] It is preferable that the maleic acid copolymer be a styrene / maleic acid copolymer, and more preferably a styrene / maleic acid copolymer.

[0235] Preferably, a 50 / 50 copolymer of styrene and maleic acid will be used.

[0236] For example, styrene / maleic acid copolymer (50 / 50), in the form of a 30% ammonium salt in water, sold under the reference SMA1000H®, can be used. by Cray Valley or the styrene / maleic acid copolymer (50 / 50), in the form of a 40% sodium salt in water, sold under the reference SMAlOOOHNa® by Cray Valley.

[0237] The use of styrene / maleic acid copolymer such as sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer can improve the wettability of a film prepared by the composition according to the present invention.

[0238] In a preferred embodiment, the (f) anionic polymer can be selected from hyaluronic acid, its salts (for example, sodium hyaluronate), and their derivatives.

[0239] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0241] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" covers in particular the basic motif of hyaluronic acid of formula:

[0242] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0243] The expression "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric motif described above, linked together in the chain by alternating [3(1,4) and [3(1,3)] glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the preparation processes.

[0244] The expression "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid salts. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium and ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0245] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and, in particular, in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid of joints, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the crista galli apophysis.

[0246] Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" includes all fractions or sub-motifs of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular within the molecular weight range recalled above.

[0247] In the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid fractions that do not have inflammatory activity are preferably used.

[0248] As an illustration of the different fractions of hyaluronic acid, reference may be made to the document "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich System", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.

[0249] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, especially between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, the term used is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0250] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, it is referred to as intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0251] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, the term used is low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0252] Finally, the expression "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5 to 50%.

[0253] Examples include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. These esters were described in particular in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0254] The hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid or one of its salts.

[0255] The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

[0256] Hyaluronic acid may in particular be hyaluronic acid supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (PM: 1.1 times 106), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (PM: 820,000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (PM: 69,000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

[0257] The amount of the (f) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] Furthermore, the quantity of the (f) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0259] The quantity of the (f) anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Fatty acid)

[0260] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one fatty acid. If two or more fatty acids are used, they may be identical or different.

[0261] The term "fatty acid" here refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

[0262] The (g) fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms and, more preferably, at least 8 carbon atoms. The (g) fatty acid may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, the (g) fatty acid is selected from a C4-C26 fatty acid, more preferably a C6-C24 fatty acid, and even more preferably a C8-C22 fatty acid.

[0263] The (g) fatty acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (g) fatty acid may be selected from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, more preferably in C8-C22.

[0264] Monounsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, or polyunsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, may be used as unsaturated fatty acids. A carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be cited as the unsaturated fraction of unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched.

[0265] Examples of saturated fatty acids include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), pentadecanoic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), heptadecanoic acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecanoic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0266] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic acid (Ci4), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), linolenic acid (C[8), elaidic acid (C[8), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22) and nervonic acid (C24).

[0267] It is preferable that the (g) fatty acid be chosen from among saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C8-Ci8, and more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0268] The fatty acid (g) may be in the form of a free acid or in the form of one of its salts. Examples of fatty acid salts include inorganic salts such as an alkali metal salt (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or similar) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a calcium salt, or similar); and organic salts such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or similar) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or similar). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. In addition, a combination of one or more fatty acids in free acid form and one or more fatty acids in salt form may be used, in which one or more types of salts may also be used.

[0269] The quantity of the (g) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the (g) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention to be 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0270] Furthermore, the quantity of the (g) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the (g) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention to be 4% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0271] Consequently, the quantity of the fatty acid(s) (g) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the fatty acid(s) (g) in the composition according to the present invention to be from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Organo-modified clay)

[0272] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one organo-modified clay. If two or more organo-modified clays are used, they may be identical or different.

[0273] Organo-modified clay means clays treated with organic compounds, in particular selected from quaternary and tertiary amines. By exchanging the original interlayer cations for organocations (typically quaternary or tertiary alkylammonium ions), an organophilic surface is generated, comprising covalently linked organic fractions.

[0274] The (h) organo-modified clay may be present between the oil phase and the aqueous phase to stabilize the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention.

[0275] It may be preferable for the (h) organo-modified clay to be in the form of particles.

[0276] Organo-modified clays that may be cited include organo-modified bentonites and hectorites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by Rheox, and organo-modified hectorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 (stearalconium hectorite) and Bentone 38 (disteardimonium hectorite) by Rheox, and the name MP250 (stearalconium bentonite) by BYK Additives & Instrumentais.

[0277] Examples include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Rheox Bentone gel VS38), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for example hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for example the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by Elementis or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by Rheox, or the product sold under the name Bentone Gel V55V by Elementis.

[0278] It is preferable that the (h) organo-modified clay be selected from organo-modified bentonites, organo-modified hectorites, and mixtures thereof. An example of an (h) organo-modified clay is disteardimonium hectorite.

[0279] It is preferable that the (h) organo-modified clay has been treated with compounds selected in particular from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.

[0280] The quantity of the organo-modified clay(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] Furthermore, the quantity of the organo-modified clay(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, of preferably, 10% by weight or less, and more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0282] The quantity of the organo-modified clay(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (pH)

[0283] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.3 to 8.5 and, more preferably, from 3.5 to 8.

[0284] At a pH of 3 to 9, the (a) cationic polymer or a complex of the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts can be very stable.

[0285] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding at least one alkali and / or at least one acid, other than (b) a non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent. (Alkali)

[0286] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkali agent or a combination of different types of alkali agents may be used.

[0287] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates, and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0288] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is preferable as an inorganic alkali metal.

[0289] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Preferably, the organic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and its derivatives; and guanidine and its derivatives.

[0290] Examples of organic alkali agents include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine and diamines such as those described in the structure below:

[0291] in which R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Rb R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0292] The alkali agent(s) may be used in an amount from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility. (Acid)

[0293] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0294] As an acid, any inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic, that are commonly used in cosmetic products may be used. A monovalent acid and / or a polyvalent acid may be used. A monovalent acid such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, and hydrochloric acid (HCl) may be used. Lactic acid may be preferred.

[0295] The acid or acids may be used in a total quantity of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility. (Optional additional ingredient)

[0296] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional additional ingredient(s) typically used in cosmetics, for example, organic or inorganic UV filters; surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than (a) the cationic polymer; volatile solvents such as ethanol or non-volatile organic solvents such as glycerin and glycols (e.g. butylene glycol); amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives other than (e) oil, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (a) the cationic polymer or (e) oil; waxes; and the like, within a range that does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0297] The composition according to the present invention may include any of the above optional additional additives in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0298] The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited amount of synthetic thickener(s) in order to be environmentally friendly.

[0299] The amount of the synthetic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include any synthetic thickener. [Preparation]

[0300] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.

[0301] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0302] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and homogenizer. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process for preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly. [Cosmetic application]

[0303] The composition according to the present invention can be intended for use as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended for application to keratinous material. Keratinous material here means material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process on keratinous material, in particular skin.

[0304] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a skin care composition. [Shape]

[0305] The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of aqueous phases and an oily phase, in which the aqueous phases are dispersed within the oily phase. Thus, the aqueous phase can function as a dispersed or discontinuous phase, and the oily phase can function as a continuous phase.

[0306] The aqueous phase comprises (a) the cationic polymer(s), (b) the non-polymer acid(s) having two or more pKa values ​​or their salt(s), (c) the source of supply of metal cation, and (d) water. If the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) the anionic polymer(s), the aqueous phase may comprise (f) the anionic polymer(s).

[0307] The oily phase comprises the (e) oil. If the composition according to the present invention comprises the (g) fatty acid and / or the (h) organo-modified clay, the oily phase may comprise the (g) fatty acid and / or the (h) organo-modified clay.

[0308] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0309] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% to 70% by weight, preferably from 45% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0310] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film.

[0311] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 µm, more preferably 1.0 µm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 µm or more, comprising:

[0312] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous material, more preferably skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0313] the drying of the composition.

[0314] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention can be 1 mm or less, preferably 500 sqm or less, more preferably 300 sqm or less, and even more preferably 100 sqm or less.

[0315] Since the process of preparing a film according to the present invention includes the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous material, and more preferably skin, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require by deposition using a squeegee or by spraying, and it is therefore even possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the film preparation process according to the present invention can produce a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as squeegees and spraying machines.

[0316] Even though the film according to the present invention is relatively thick, it is still thin and may be transparent, and therefore may not be easily perceptible. Thus, the film according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic film.

[0317] If the substrate is not a keratinous material such as skin, the composition according to the present invention can be applied to a substrate made of any material other than keratin. The materials of the non-keratinous substrate are not limited. Two or more materials can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials can be used. In all cases, it is preferable that the substrate be flexible or elastic.

[0318] If the substrate is not a keratinous material, it is preferable that the substrate be water-soluble, since it is possible to leave the film according to the present invention by washing the substrate with water. Examples of water-soluble materials include poly(meth)acrylic acids, polyethylene glycols, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), starch, cellulose acetates, and the like. PVA is preferable.

[0319] If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate the handling of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but may be from 1 µm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 µm to 1 mm, and more preferably from 50 to 500 µm.

[0320] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be able to be released from the non-keratinous substrate. The method of release is not limited. Therefore, the film according to the present invention can be peeled from the non-keratinous substrate, or released by dissolving the substrate sheet in a solvent such as water.

[0321] The present invention may also relate to: 1. A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, prepared by a process comprising:

[0322] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous material, and more preferably to the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0323] drying of the composition,

[0324] and 1. A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 sq m, more preferably 1.0 sq m or more, even more preferably 1.5 sq m or more, comprising: a. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; b. at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts; c. at least one source of supply of metallic cation; and d. at least one oil.

[0325] The film may also include (f) at least one anionic polymer and / or (g) at least one fatty acid and / or (h) at least one organo-modified clay.

[0326] The above explanation concerning the (a) cationic polymer, the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts, the (c) source of supply of metal cation and the (e) oil, as well as optional ingredients such as the (f) anionic polymer, the (g) fatty acid and the (h) organo-modified clay can be applied to those of films (1) and (2) above.

[0327] The film thus obtained can be self-supporting. The term “self-supporting” here means that the film can be in the form of a sheet and can be handled as an independent sheet without the assistance of a substrate or support. Thus, the term “self-supporting” can have the same meaning as “self-supporting”.

[0328] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be hydrophobic.

[0329] In this patent memorandum, the term “hydrophobic” means that the The solubility of the film in water (preferably with a volume of 1 liter) at 20 to 40 °C, preferably at 25 to 40 °C, and more preferably at 30 to 40 °C, is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the film. Ideally, the film should be insoluble in water.

[0330] If the film according to the present invention is hydrophobic, the film can have water-resistant properties and, consequently, can remain on a keratinous material such as skin, even if the surface of the keratinous material is wet due to, for example, perspiration or rain. Thus, when the film according to the present invention provides any cosmetic effect, the cosmetic effect can last for a long time.

[0331] On the other hand, the film according to the present invention can be easily removed from a keratinous material such as skin under alkaline conditions such as a pH of 8 to 12, preferably 9 to 11. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, while it can be easily removed with a soap that can provide such alkaline conditions.

[0332] The film according to the present invention may comprise at least one layer of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer. Two or more biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer or a combination of different types of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used.

[0333] The term “biocompatible” polymer in this patent memorandum means that the polymer does not have excessive interaction between the polymer and the cells of the living body including the skin, and that the polymer is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.

[0334] The term "biodegradable" polymer in this patent specification means that the polymer can be degraded or broken down in a living organism due, for example, to the metabolism of the living organism itself or to the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living organism. Furthermore, the biodegradable polymer can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0335] If the film according to the present invention includes a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, it is less irritating or non-irritating to the skin and / or it may not contaminate environments.

[0336] In fact, the film according to the present invention may include (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, which are biodegradable polymers. Consequently, the film according to the present invention may be environmentally friendly.

[0337] Furthermore, due to the use of a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, the cosmetic sheet according to the present invention can adhere well to the skin.

[0338] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous material, preferably skin, particularly facial skin. The film according to the present invention can take any shape. For example, it can be used as a full mask or as a patch for a part of the face such as the cheek, nose, and around the eyes. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0339] The present invention also relates to:

[0340] a cosmetic process for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising: applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous material; or

[0341] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous material such as skin.

[0342] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of the surface of a keratinous material such as the skin.

[0343] In both the above process and use, the above cosmetic film is resistant to water having a pH of 7 or less, and can be removed with water having a pH greater than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more.

[0344] In other words, the above cosmetic film can be water-resistant under neutral or acidic conditions such as a pH of 7 or less, preferably in a range of 6 or more and 7 or less, and more preferably in a range of 5 or more and 7 or less, while the above cosmetic film can be removed under alkaline conditions such as a pH greater than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more. The upper limit of pH is preferably 13, more preferably 12, and even more preferably 11.

[0345] Consequently, the above-mentioned cosmetic film can be water-resistant and can therefore remain on a keratinous material such as skin even if the surface of the keratinous material is wet due to, for example, perspiration and rain. On the other hand, the above-mentioned cosmetic film can be easily removed from a keratinous material such as skin under alkaline conditions. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, whereas it can be easily removed with a soap that can provide alkaline conditions.

[0346] If the above cosmetic film includes a UV filter which may be present in the composition according to the present invention, the above cosmetic film can protect a keratinous material such as skin from UV rays, thus limiting skin darkening, improving color and evenness of complexion, and / or treating skin aging.

[0347] In addition, the above cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects such as sebum capture, mattifying the appearance of a keratin substrate such as skin, absorption or odor absorption, and / or protection of keratin material against, for example, dirt or pollutants, even if the cosmetic film does not contain any cosmetic active ingredient.

[0348] Furthermore, the above-mentioned cosmetic film can immediately change or alter the appearance of the skin by modifying the reflection of light on the skin and other factors, even if the cosmetic film does not contain any active cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, it may be possible for the above-mentioned cosmetic film to conceal skin defects such as pores or wrinkles. In addition, the above-mentioned cosmetic film can immediately change or alter the feel of the skin by changing the surface roughness of the skin and similar factors. Furthermore, the above-mentioned cosmetic film can immediately protect the skin by covering its surface and protecting it, like a barrier, against environmental aggressors such as pollutants, contaminants, and the like.

[0349] The above cosmetic effects can be adjusted or controlled by modifying the chemical composition, thickness and / or surface roughness of the above cosmetic film.

[0350] If the above cosmetic film includes at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient other than (e) oil, the cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects provided by the additional cosmetic active ingredient(s). For example, if the cosmetic film contains at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from anti-aging agents, sebum-regulating agents, deodorant agents, antiperspirant agents, whitening agents, and a mixture thereof, the cosmetic film may treat skin aging, absorb sebum from the skin, control perspiration on the skin, and / or whiten the skin.

[0351] It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film or sheet according to the present invention after its application to the skin.

[0352] The present invention may also relate to the use of (c) at least one source of supply of metal cation

[0353] in a composition comprising:

[0354] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising: a. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts,

[0355] and

[0356] a fatty phase comprising:

[0357] (e) at least one oil,

[0358] in which

[0359] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase,

[0360] such that the concentration of metal cation in the composition is 0.030% by weight or more, preferably 0.035% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.040% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, in order to stabilize the composition and / or reduce the formation of pilling on the skin after application of the composition to a keratinous material such as skin.

[0361] The composition may also include (f) at least one anionic polymer and / or (g) at least one fatty acid and / or (h) at least one organo-modified clay.

[0362] The above explanations concerning the (a) cationic polymer, the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts, the (c) source of supply of metal cation, the (d) water and the (e) oil, as well as Optional ingredients such as (f) anionic polymer, (g) fatty acid and (h) organo-modified clay may apply to those of the above use. EXAMPLES

[0363] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples#l-4 and Comparative Examples#l-2 [Preparations]

[0364] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients indicated in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0365] The details of the preparation are as follows.

[0366] First, all the ingredients of the oil phase were thoroughly mixed. Second, the aqueous phase was prepared separately by the following process: a polyanion (sodium hyaluronate) was first dissolved in water. Then, a polycation (polylysine) and a crosslinking agent (phytic acid) were added to create a polyion complex gel particle (PGP). After the addition of all the other ingredients for the aqueous phase, the aqueous phase was added to the oil phase and emulsified to form a water-in-oil (W / O) composition. Ethanol was added after emulsification.

[0367] [Table 1]

[0368] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. co mp. 1 Ex. co mp. 2 FP Diisopropyl sebacate 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 2.25 Dimethicone qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 PEG-10 Dimethicone 5 5 5 5 5 5 Antioxidant 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 5 5 5 5 5 5 Disteardimonium hectorite 1 1 1 1 1 1 Pigments 1.058 1.058 1.058 1.058 1.058 Silica 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 AP Water 26 26 26 26 26 26 Polylysine (4k Da)I 0.125 0.25 0.125 0.25 0.125 0.25 Sodium Hydroxide 0.03 0.06 - - - - Sodium Chloride - - 0.0375 0.075 - - Sodium Hyaluronate 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 Cellulose Gum 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 Phytic Acid (50% wt. aqueous solution) 0.14 0.275 0.14 0.275 0.14 0.275 Polyols 11 11 11 11 11 11 Preservative 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Oleic acid 0.028 0.028 0.028 0.028 0.028 0.028 Ethanol 5 5 5 5 5 5 Total Na (% by weight) 0.052 0.069 0.050 0.065 0.035 0.035 Na+ (% by weight) 0.043 0.057 0.044 0.059 0.029 0.029 Pilling on skin 4 4 4 4 3 2 Stability - Similar stability Similar stability Similar stability Lower stability Lower stability

[0369] FP: Fatty phase

[0370] AP: Aqueous phase [Reviews] (Total Na)

[0371] The total sodium concentration in each of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was measured by atomic absorption spectrometry using a Hitachi High-Tech model ZA3300.

[0372] The measured values ​​of the concentration (% by weight) of Na, relative to the total weight of the composition, are presented in Table 1. (Na+)

[0373] The concentration of sodium cation in each of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was measured by the following method.

[0374] First, the composition was diluted with toluene and washed with water. A separate aqueous extract was subjected to ion chromatography on a Thermo Fisher Scientific model INTEGRION using DionexTM lonPacTM AS11-HC-4 pm or DionexTM lonPacTM CS14 columns.

[0375] The measured values ​​of the concentration (% by weight) of Na+, relative to the total weight of the composition, are presented in Table 1. (Pilling on the skin)

[0376] Each (50 mg) of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was applied, with a gloved finger, to a 5 cm square area on the inner forearm of two experts. The amount of lint (vermicelli or string-like object) generated when rubbing the application area with the fingers three times was noted based on the following criteria.

[0377] 4: No pilling on the skin at all

[0378] 3: Virtually no pilling on the skin

[0379] 2: Some pilling on the skin

[0380] 1: A lot of pilling on the skin

[0381] The results are shown in Table 1. (Stability)

[0382] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was stored for 2 months at room temperature. The appearance of the composition according to Example 1 was used as a control. The appearance of each of the compositions according to Examples 2-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was evaluated, in terms of the degree of phase separation, in comparison with that of the composition according to Example 1, in accordance with the following criteria.

[0383] Superior stability: Smaller phase separation compared to example 1

[0384] Similar stability: Phase separation similar to example 1

[0385] Lower stability: Greater phase separation compared to Example 1

[0386] The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)

[0387] Compositions according to Examples 1-4 which include sodium at a concentration of 0.040% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, are more stable than compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-2 which include sodium at a concentration of less than 0.040% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0388] Compositions according to Examples 1-4 which include a sodium cation at a concentration of 0.030% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, may reduce the formation of pilling on the skin when applied to the skin, compared to compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-2 which include a sodium cation at a concentration of less than 0.030% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Claims

Demands

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising a plurality of aqueous phases including: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one of its salts; (c) at least one source of supply of metal cation, and an oily phase including: (e) at least one oil, in which the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines, chitosans and mixtures thereof, and the concentration of the metal cation in the composition is 0.030% by weight or more, preferably 0.035% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.040% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (b) non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or its salt is an organic acid or one of its salts, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or one of its salts, and more preferably phytic acid or one of its salts.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of (b) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more pKa values ​​or their salt(s) in the composition ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (c) source of supply of metal cation is chosen from alkali metal salts and alkali metal hydroxides, preferably inorganic alkali metal salts and inorganic alkali metal hydroxides, and more preferably inorganic sodium salts such as sodium chloride and sodium hydroxides.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of (d) water in the composition is from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the quantity of the oil(s) in the composition ranges from 0% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises (f) at least one anionic polymer.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the fat phase further comprises (g) at least one fatty acid, preferably selected from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, more preferably in C6-C24, and even more preferably in C8-C22.

10. A cosmetic process for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising: applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous material; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous material.