COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AMPHIPHILIC INORGANIC UV FILTER AND AN ORGANIC UV FILTER

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AMPHIPHILIC INORGANIC UV FILTER AND AN ORGANIC UV FILTER. The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter, preferably an amphiphilic metal oxide, and more preferably amphiphilic TiO2; and (b) at least one organic UV filter, the weight ratio of the amount of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) to the amount of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition being greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, and more preferably greater than 0.7. The composition according to the present invention may exhibit at least an acceptable whiteness and at least an acceptable oily feel. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION Including an amphiphilic inorganic UV filter and an organic UV filter. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter and at least one organic UV filter, in a specific quantity ratio condition, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Skin aging is not solely a consequence of chronological age. The skin is exposed to various environmental aggressions, such as UV (ultraviolet) radiation, which cause the formation of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radicals, superoxide anions, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature skin aging. This process is commonly referred to as photoaging.

[0003] Numerous sunscreen compositions designed to protect keratinous material, such as skin, against UV radiation have been proposed to date. Sunscreen compositions generally include one or more UV filters to protect against UV radiation. In particular, sunscreen compositions commonly include inorganic UV filters, such as fine particles of TiO2. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0004] It has been common to use a combination of at least one inorganic UV filter and at least one organic UV filter in a composition, such as a sunscreen composition, for safe and effective protection against UV rays.

[0005] However, the use of a combination of inorganic and organic UV filters in a composition may induce the appearance of an unnatural whiteness and oily feeling, in some cases, when applied to a keratinous material, such as skin.

[0006] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to propose a composition comprising a combination of inorganic and organic UV filters, which can provide both at least acceptable whiteness and at least an acceptable oily feel.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter, preferably an amphiphilic metal oxide, and more preferably an amphiphilic TiO2; and b. at least one organic UV filter,

[0008] in which

[0009] the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) / the quantity of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, and more preferably greater than 0.7.

[0010] It is preferable that the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) / quantity of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention be from 0.6 to 30, more preferably from 0.8 to 15, and even more preferably from 1 to 4.

[0011] The (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter may include at least one coating comprising at least one amphiphilic material, preferably at least one surfactant, more preferably at least one anionic surfactant and / or at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0012] The (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter may comprise at least one coating comprising

[0013] (i) at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl phosphates and their salts, preferably from C8-C26 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, more preferably from C[2-C22] alkyl monophosphates and their salts, even more preferably from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate and a mixture thereof, and in particular cetyl phosphate;

[0014] and / or

[0015] (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from

[0016] - the esters of a fatty acid, preferably a C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably of a fatty acid in Ci6-C22, and (poly)oxyalkylated sorbitol esters, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylened such as polysorbate-20, polysorbate-40, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-65, polysorbate-80 and polysorbate-85;

[0017] - the esters of a C12-C20 fatty acid and a polyglycerol comprising 3 to 12 glycerol groups, preferably from 6 to 10 glycerol groups such as polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate and polyglyceryl-10 oleate; and

[0018] - their mixtures,

[0019] preferably (i) at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl phosphates and their salts, preferably from C8-C26 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, more preferably from C12-C22 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, even more preferably from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and a mixture thereof, and in particular cetyl phosphate.

[0020] The above coating may further comprise at least one hydrophilic compound selected from the group consisting of silica, hydrated silica, alumina and aluminum hydroxide, at least one lipophilic compound selected from the group consisting of stearic acid and isostearic acid: or mixtures thereof, preferably at least one hydrophilic compound selected from the group consisting of silica, hydrated silica, alumina and aluminum hydroxide, and more preferably silica.

[0021] The quantity of the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The (b) organic UV filter can be selected from lipophilic organic UV filters, preferably from triazine compounds, and more preferably from the group consisting of ethylhexyltriazone, diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, 2,4,6-tris(4'-dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(4'-dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(4'-n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, 3,3'-(l,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-dipenyl-l,2,4,-triazine and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine, in particular bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine.

[0023] The quantity of the (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) at least one surfactant, preferably selected from (c3) amphoteric surfactants, (c4) non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0025] The (c3) amphoteric surfactant may be selected from phospholipids, preferably from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, lysolecithin, hydrogenated lysolecithin, hydroxylated lecithin, and mixtures thereof

[0026] The (c4) nonionic surfactant may be selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, preferably from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0027] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one oil, preferably chosen from polar oils and, more preferably, from ester oils.

[0028] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) water.

[0029] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a dispersion or H / W emulsion.

[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous material, such as skin, comprising:

[0031] the application on keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention

[0032] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a composition comprising a combination of inorganic and organic UV filters, which can provide both at least acceptable whiteness and at least an acceptable oily feel.

[0033] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter, preferably an amphiphilic metal oxide, and more preferably an amphiphilic TiO2; and b. at least one organic UV filter,

[0034] in which

[0035] the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) / the quantity of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, and more preferably greater than 0.7.

[0036] The composition according to the present invention can protect against UV rays. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be used to protect a keratinous material against UV rays, such as those from the sun.

[0037] Since the composition according to the present invention includes both inorganic and organic UV filters, the composition according to the present invention can offer protection against a wide range of UV wavelengths.

[0038] The composition according to the present invention can reduce whiteness (white streaks) when applied to a keratinous material, such as skin. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can improve unnatural whiteness when applied to a keratinous material, such as skin.

[0039] The composition according to the present invention can reduce the greasy feeling (oily texture) when applied to a keratinous material, such as skin. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can improve the user experience when applied to a keratinous material, such as skin.

[0040] The composition, process and similar features according to the present invention will be described in more detail below. [UV absorbing system]

[0041] Definition:

[0042] A “UV-absorbing system containing essentially at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material,” as used herein, means that the disclosure compositions contain less than 3% of UV filters other than the ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material(s), in particular less than 3% of organic UV filters, which means that in this definition, as subcategories, include compositions containing less than 2% of UV filters other than the ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material(s), in particular less than 2% of organic UV filters, and less than 1% of UV filters other than the ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material(s), in particular less than 1% of organic UV filters, as well as those that are “free of UV filters other than the ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material.”"substantially free of UV filters other than the physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material" and "devoid of UV filters other than the physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material," as defined above.

[0043] “Primary particle”, as used in connection with the description of a material Ultraviolet (UV) attenuation physics, here refers to inorganic or organic particles (structures) that can be held together by molecular or atomic bonding to form an ultraviolet (UV) attenuation physics material.

[0044] “Primary particle size” means the size of a non-aggregated primary particle in a physical material for attenuating ultraviolet (UV).

[0045] “Passive”, as used in connection with the description of a physical material Ultraviolet (UV) attenuation, here refers to a material that has been treated in such a way that the potential for the release of ionic species when in contact with water is reduced compared to the same non-passivated material.

[0046] In the following definition, we use the abbreviations ZnO for zinc oxide and TiO2 for titanium dioxide.

[0047] Physical UV attenuation material:

[0048] According to this disclosure, compositions comprising at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material are proposed. "UV attenuating physical material," as used herein, refers to solid inorganic ingredients that absorb incident ultraviolet (UV) light and may optionally scatter incident ultraviolet (UV) light, when present in the compositions disclosed herein. The physical UV attenuation material preferably comprises one or more metal oxides such as, for example, oxides of titanium, chromium, zinc, tin, alumina, cerium, and / or iron. Specific examples of suitable metal oxide(s) include, but are not limited to, at least one metal oxide selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, tin oxide, alumina, cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] The UV attenuating physical material may be subjected to a surface treatment agent to improve the sensoriality, performance and / or compatibility of the compositions disclosed herein. Suitable surface treatment agents may include hydrophobic or hydrophilic surface treatment agents such as, for example, those described in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, including, but not limited to, specific examples such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty acid salts, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, lecithin derivatives, metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins, alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina and / or glycerol. Preferably, the physical UV attenuation material is passivated.

[0050] Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprises one or more elements of zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide. Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprising one or more elements of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide is passivated.

[0051] According to a first embodiment, the UV attenuation physical material comprises titanium dioxide. The titanium dioxide may be present in any form. Furthermore, the TiO2 may be treated (coated) or untreated.

[0052] According to a second embodiment, the UV attenuation physical material comprises a zinc oxide. The zinc oxide may be present in any form (for example, as wurtzite or zinc blende) in the compositions disclosed herein. Furthermore, the zinc oxide may be treated (coated) or untreated.

[0053] Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprises one or more zinc oxides. More preferably, the zinc oxide is passivated.

[0054] Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprises one or more titanium dioxides. More preferably, the titanium dioxide is passivated.

[0055] Preferably, the average primary particle size of the ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material is from 1 nm to 500 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 250 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 50 nm, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 25 nm to 40 nm, 10 nm to 75 nm and 15 nm to 150 nm.

[0056] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:

[0057] - of hydrated silica, such as Tayca's MT-100WP product,

[0058] - of silica and iron oxide, such as the Sunveil F® product from Ikeda,

[0059] - of silica and alumina, such as Tayca's MT-500SA® and MT-100SA® products and Croda's Tioveil™ AQ-N,

[0060] - of alumina, such as Ishihara's TTO-55 (A)® product,

[0061] - of alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the MT-100TV® and MT-100Z products ® and MT-01® from Tayca, the Solaveil™ CT 100® product from Croda and the Eusolex T-AVO® product from Merck,

[0062] - of silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as Tayca's MT-100AQ® product,

[0063] - of alumina and aluminum laurate,

[0064] - of iron oxide and iron stearate,

[0065] - of zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

[0066] - of silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, like the MTY-500SAS products ® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100SAS® from Tayca,

[0067] - of silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone,

[0068] - of silica and treated with a silicone,

[0069] - of silica and treated with a silicone, such as the Ishihara product TTO-55(S)®;

[0070] - of triethanolamine,

[0071] - of stearic acid, such as Ishihara's TTO-55 (C)® product,

[0072] - of sodium hexametaphosphate,

[0073] - of TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane,

[0074] - of TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,

[0075] - of TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane,

[0076] - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil™ CT-200 by Croda,

[0077] - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone, sold under the name commercial Solaveil™ CT-12W by Croda,

[0078] - of TiO2 coated with lauroyllysine,

[0079] - of TiO2 coated with a C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and hydroxide aluminum.

[0080] Other examples include TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal, such as iron, zinc, or manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, these doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, particularly capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also include one or more dispersants, for example, a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid ester of glycerol, such as tri-PPG-3 myristylethercitrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles includes at least one dispersant selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of glycerol.One can cite in particular the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate, the INCI name of which is: titanium dioxide (and) TRLPPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for example the product sold under the trade name Optisol™ OTP-1 by Croda. .

[0081] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B®, or by Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.

[0082] Suitable examples of uncoated zinc oxide include, for example, zinc oxide marketed under the name "Z-COTE"® by BASF, zinc oxide marketed under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by Nanophase Technologies, zinc oxide marketed under the name "MZ-500", "MZ-300", "MZ-200" or "MZ-150" by TAYCA.

[0083] Treated (coated) zinc oxide compounds are compounds that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, hydrated silica, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0084] Examples of suitable coated zinc oxide include, but are not limited to, zinc oxide coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane; zinc oxide dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) Cl2-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid), marketed by Croda under the trade name Sovaveil CZ-100; zinc oxide dispersions in a C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent, marketed under the trade name "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA"® by Daito Kasei; ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane, marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by Shin-Etsu; a ZnO coated with hydrated silica, marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZ-500HP"; a ZnO coated with hydrated silica, polydimethylsiloxyethylpolydimethylsiloxyethylhexyldimethicone and hydrogenodimethicone (H-Me-Si), marketed by TAYCA under the name MZ-510 HPSX;a ZnO coated with stearic acid or isostearic acid, such as those marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZ-505T", "MZY-505EX" or "MZY-304EX"; a ZnO coated with silicone oil, such as those marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZX-510HPS", "MZY-505S", "MZY-510M3S", "MZ-505M", "MZY-303S", "MZY-303M", "MZY-203S", "MZY-210M3S" or "MZY-153S"; a triethoxycaprylylsilane-coated ZnO, such as those marketed by BASF under the name Z-COTE HP1, or by TAYCA under the name "MZX-508OTS", "MZY-203OTS" or "MZX-304OTS" or by DSM under the name PARSOL ZX; for example: a ZnO marketed under the brand name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with a polymethylhydrosiloxane); a ZnO marketed under the brand name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (in the form of a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate);a ZnO marketed under the brand name "Daitopersion Zn-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in an oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nanooxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); a ZnO marketed under the brand name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by Daikin (ZnO coated with a perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer in the form of a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); a ZnO marketed under the brand name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); a ZnO marketed under the brand name "Escalol Z100" by ISP (ZnO treated with alumina dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer); a ZnO marketed under the brand name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);and a ZnO marketed under the brand name "Nanox Gel; TN » by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with a hydroxystearic acid polycondensate); a ZnO marketed under the Finex brand by SAKAI, such as FINEX-50LP, FINEX-50S-LP2 and FINEX-30S-LPT (ZnO coated with hydrogenodimethicone); FINEX-33W (ZnO coated with hydrated silica), FINEX-52W-LP2 and FINEX-33W-LP2 (ZnO coated with hydrogenodimethicone and hydrated silica), FINEX-50-OTS and FINEX-30-OTS (ZnO coated with triethoxycaprylysilane). Preferred coatings may include one or more of the following: hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethylpolydimethylsiloxyethyl, hexyldimethicone and / or hydrogenodimethicone, triethoxycaprylysilane.

[0085] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, zinc oxide may be in the form of wafers and may be coated or uncoated. Suitable examples of such forms are marketed by Croda under the name Solaveil (MicNo), such as Solaveil MXP3, MZP7, MZP8, MZ3-100, MZ3-300, and MZ7-100. Preferably, the zinc oxide wafers useful according to this disclosure (1) have a median specific surface area of ​​more than 25 square meters per gram, preferably greater than 30 square meters per gram, and / or (2) are transparent (i.e., transmission >30% at 600 nm). Suitable examples of such wafer forms may also be found in US Patent 11,608,275.

[0086] A suitable example of other coated pigments, which have an amphiphilic property, may be chosen from:

[0087] titanium oxides coated with cetyl phosphate and silica, such as the product “Eusolex® T-EASY” from Merck;

[0088] titanium oxides coated with polyglyceryl-10 oleate and stearic acid, such as Tayca's "MTY-200STW";

[0089] zinc oxides coated with polyglyceryl-10 oleate and isostearic acid, such as Tayca's "MZY-505EXW";

[0090] titanium oxides coated with polysorbate 80 and isostearic acid, such as Tayca's "MT-10EXW"; and

[0091] zinc oxides coated with polysorbate 80 and isostearic acid, such as Tayca's "MZY-304EXW".

[0092] Preferably, at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material is present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount of at least 5% by weight, preferably at least about 10% by weight, preferably at least about 12% by weight, preferably at least about 14% by weight, and preferably at least about 15% by weight, the upper end of the range of at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material present being preferably about 40% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 40%, about 10 to 40%, about 12 to 40%, etc.), preferably about 30% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 30%, about 10 to 30%, about 12 to 30%, etc.), preferably about 25% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 25%, about 10 to 25%, about 12 to 25%, etc.), and preferably about 20% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 20%, about 10 to 20%, about 12 to 20%, etc.), all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.

[0093] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure contain a UV-absorbing system comprising essentially one or more ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical materials as defined above. [Composition]

[0094] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter, preferably an amphiphilic metal oxide, and more preferably an amphiphilic TiO2; and b. at least one organic UV filter,

[0095] in which

[0096] the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) / the quantity of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, and more preferably greater than 0.7.

[0097] The weight ratio of the quantity of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) / quantity of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30 or less, preferably 15 or less, and more preferably 4 or less.

[0098] The weight ratio of the quantity of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) / quantity of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.6 to 30, preferably from 0.8 to 15, and more preferably from 1 to 4. (Amphiphilic inorganic UV filter)

[0099] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter. Two or more different types of amphiphilic inorganic UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of amphiphilic inorganic UV filter or a combination of different types of amphiphilic inorganic UV filters may be used.

[0100] The term “UV” here includes the UV-B region (wavelengths from 260 to 320 nm) and the UV-A region (wavelengths from 320 to 400 nm).

[0101] The (a) amphiphilic organic UV filter can be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region.

[0102] The (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter is preferably insoluble in solvents such as water and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.

[0103] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic organic UV filter be solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa).

[0104] The (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter has both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, which therefore has an amphiphilic character and is dispersible in both water and oil.

[0105] If an (a) inorganic UV filter is dispersed both in an aqueous phase composed solely of water and in an oily phase composed solely of isopropyl myristate, and is adsorbed at the interface between the aqueous and oily phases, with or without emulsion formation, when mixed with a biphasic or two-phase composition comprising the aqueous and oily phases, with the weight ratio aqueous phase:oily phase of 1:1, at room temperature (25 °C) and under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa), the inorganic UV filter can be considered amphiphilic.

[0106] It is preferable that the inorganic particle for the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle so that the average (primary) particle diameter is from 1 nm to 80 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 60 nm, and more preferably from 15 nm to 50 nm. The average (primary) particle size or the average (primary) particle diameter is here an average diameter in volume.

[0107] The inorganic particle may be chosen from the group consisting of silicon carbide, metal oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Preferably, the inorganic particle for the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter can be chosen from metal oxides such as, for example, titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and / or anatase form) and zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably the inorganic particle is titanium dioxide.

[0109] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter be chosen from among amphiphilic metal oxides, and more preferably an amphiphilic TiO2. The terms "amphiphilic metal oxide" and "amphiphilic TiO2" here refer, respectively, to a metal oxide with an amphiphilic surface and a TiO2 with an amphiphilic surface.

[0110] The (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter may have at least one amphiphilic coating. The amphiphilic coating may provide an amphiphilic surface.

[0111] Coated inorganic UV filters are preferable because the UV filtering effects of inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. Furthermore, the coating(s) can contribute to the uniform or homogeneous dispersion of the inorganic UV filters in the composition according to the present invention.

[0112] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter be surface treated to have at least an amphiphilic coating.

[0113] The amphiphilic coating may comprise at least one amphiphilic material, preferably at least one surfactant, more preferably at least one anionic surfactant and / or at least one non-ionic surfactant which may have an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25 °C.

[0114] For the purposes of the present invention, "surfactant" means an amphiphilic compound, that is, a compound having two parts of different polarities. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water).

[0115] Surfactants, particularly nonionic surfactants, can be characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium) value, the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic to the lipophilic portion of the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the present invention can be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0116] In one embodiment, the amphiphilic coating may comprise:

[0117] (i) at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl phosphates and their salts, preferably from C8-C26 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, more preferably from C12-C22 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, even more preferably from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate and a mixture thereof, and in particular cetyl phosphate;

[0118] and / or

[0119] (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant, which may have an HLB value at 25 °C greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, selected from:

[0120] - the esters of a fatty acid, preferably a C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably of a fatty acid in Ci6-C22, and (poly)oxyalkylated sorbitol esters, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylened, which may comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, such as polysorbate-20, polysorbate-40, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-65, polysorbate-80 and polysorbate-85;

[0121] - esters of a fatty acid in the form C12-C2O and a polyglycerol comprising 3 to 12 glycerol groups, preferably 6 to 10 glycerol groups, such as polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl- 10 and polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, and polyglyceryl-10 oleate; and

[0122] - their mixtures,

[0123] preferably (i) at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl phosphates and their salts, preferably from C8-C26 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, more preferably from C12-C22 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, even more preferably from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and a mixture thereof, and in particular cetyl phosphate.

[0124] The amphiphilic coating may further comprise at least one hydrophilic compound selected from the group consisting of silica, hydrated silica, alumina and aluminum hydroxide: at least one lipophilic compound which may be selected from the group consisting of stearic acid and isostearic acid: or mixtures thereof, preferably at least one hydrophilic compound selected from the group consisting of silica, hydrated silica, alumina and aluminum hydroxide, and more preferably silica.

[0125] The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic particles to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above.

[0126] The coated inorganic particle may have been prepared by first treating the surface of the particle to make it hydrophobic, and then treating it with a surfactant to make it hydrophilic.

[0127] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter be chosen from:

[0128] titanium oxides coated with cetyl phosphate and silica, such as the product “Eusolex® T-EASY” from Merck;

[0129] titanium oxides coated with polyglyceryl-10 oleate and stearic acid, such as Tayca's "MTY-200STW";

[0130] zinc oxides coated with polyglyceryl-10 oleate and isostearic acid, such as Tayca's "MZY-505EXW";

[0131] titanium oxides coated with polysorbate 80 and isostearic acid, such as Tayca's "MT-10EXW"; and

[0132] zinc oxides coated with polysorbate 80 and isostearic acid, such as Tayca's "MZY-304EXW".

[0133] In particular, it is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter be titanium dioxide (and) silica (and) cetyl phosphate, such as the product sold by Merck under the name Eusolex® T-EASY.

[0134] The quantity of the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] The quantity of the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] The quantity of the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Organic UV filter)

[0137] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one organic UV filter. If two or more organic UV filters are used, they may be identical or different.

[0138] The term “UV” here includes the UV-B region (wavelengths from 260 to 320 nm) and the UV-A region (wavelengths from 320 to 400 nm).

[0139] The (b) organic UV filter can be active in the UV-A region and / or the UV-B region.

[0140] The (b) organic UV filter herein may be in the form of a liquid or a Solid. The term "solid" means that a substance is solid at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa). The term "liquid" means that a substance is liquid at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa).

[0141] The (b) organic UV filter can be hydrophilic or lipophilic. In a preferred embodiment, the (b) organic UV filter is selected from among lipophilic organic UV filters.

[0142] The term "hydrophilic" here means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa).

[0143] The term “lipophilic” here means that a substance is soluble in an oil at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa).

[0144] Examples of (b) organic lipophilic UV filters may include, but are not limited to, triazine compounds, para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, imidazoline compounds, salicylic compounds, cinnamate compounds, [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds, benzalmalonate compounds, merocyanine compounds, aminobenzophenone compounds, compounds dibenzoylmethane, anthranilic acid compounds, 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, phenylbenzotriazole compounds, benzophenone compounds, and benzoxazole compounds.

[0145] Examples of triazine compounds include ethylhexyltriazone, marketed under the name "Uvinul® T-150" by BASF; diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, marketed under the name "Uvasorb® HEB" by SIGMA 3 V; 2,4,6-tris(4'-dineopentyl aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine; 2,4,6-tris(4'-diisobutyl aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine; 2,4-bis(4'-dineopentyl aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-s-triazine; 2,4-bis(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine; 3,3'-(l,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-dipenyl-l,2,4,-triazine, having the INCI name phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine and bis-ethylhexyloxyphen olmethoxyphenyltriazine marketed under the brand name "Tinosorb® S" by BASF or "Parsol® Shield" by DSM Nutritional Products.

[0146] Examples of para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives include para-aminobenzoates (PABA), for example ethyl PABA (para-aminobenzoate), ethyl dihydroxypropyl-PABA and ethylhexyl dimethyl-PABA, marketed under the name "Escarol™5972" by ISP, glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, and their salts, such as those sold under the name "Uvinul® P25" by BASF.

[0147] Examples of benzylidenecamphor compounds include terephthalylidenedicamphresulfonic acid and its salts, such as those manufactured under the name "Mexoryl® SX" by Chimex, 3-benzylidenecamphor, marketed under the name "Mexoryl® SD" by Chimex, methylbenzylidenecamphor, marketed under the name "Eusolex® 6300" by Merck, and polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor, marketed under the name "Mexoryl® SW" by Chimex.

[0148] Examples of phenylbenzimidazole compounds include phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, marketed under the name "Eusolex 232" by Merck and disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate, marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan® AP" by Symrise.

[0149] Examples of imidazoline compounds include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazolinepropionate.

[0150] Examples of salicylic compounds include homosalate, marketed under the name "Eusolex® HMS" by Merck and "Parsol® HMS" by DSM Nutritional Products, and ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan® OS" by Symrise.

[0151] Examples of cinnamate compounds include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the name "Parsol® MCX" by DSM Nutritional Products, isopropyl ethoxycinnamate, and methoxycinnamate. isoamyl, marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan® E 1000" by Symrise, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate cinoxate and dimethoxycinnamate, and DEA methoxycinnamate and its salts.

[0152] Examples of [3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds include octocrylene, marketed under the name "Uvinul® N539" by BASF and etocrylene, marketed under the name "Uvinul® N35" by BASF.

[0153] Examples of benzalmalonate compounds include polyorganosiloxanes containing a benzalmalonate fraction, for example Polysilicone-15, marketed under the name "Parsol® SLX" by DSM Nutritional Products, and dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.

[0154] Examples of aminobenzophenone compounds include n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, whose alternative name is hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate (DHHB), sold under the trade name "Uvinul® A+" by BASF.

[0155] Examples of dibenzoylmethane compounds include 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, sold under the name "Eusolex 8020" by Merck, l-(4-methoxy-l-benzofuran-5-yl)-3-phenylpropane-l,3-dione, sold under the name "Pongamol" by Quest, l-(4-(tert-butyl)phenyl)-3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)propane-l,3-dione and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, sold under the trade name "Parsol 1789" by DSM Nutritional Products.

[0156] As examples of anthranilic acid compounds, one can cite menthyl anthranilate marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan® MA" by Symrise.

[0157] Examples of 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds include l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene and diphenylbutadiene malonates and malononitriles.

[0158] Examples of phenylbenzotriazole compounds include drometrizoletrisiloxane sold under the name "Mexoryl® XL" by Noveal and methylenebis-benzotrizoryltetramethylbutylphenol sold under the name "Tinosorb® M" by BASF or "Parsol® Max" by DSM Nutritional Products.

[0159] Examples of benzophenone compounds include benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the name "Uvinul® M40 by BASF.

[0160] Examples of bisbenzoxazolyl compounds include those described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264, in particular disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate and its salts, sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan® AP" by Symrise.

[0161] The (b) organic UV filters may include, but are not limited to, at least one selected from triazine compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, and bisbenzoxazolyl compounds.

[0162] The salts of the (b) organic UV filter that can be used may be chosen in particular from alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metallic salts, for example zinc, aluminium, manganese or copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, for example methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine salts; lysine or arginine salts.

[0163] It is preferable that the (b) organic UV filter be chosen from among lipophilic organic UV filters, more preferably from triazine compounds, and even more preferably from the group consisting of ethylhexyltriazone, diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, 2,4,6-tris(4'-dineopentyl aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-diisobutyl aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(4'-dineopentyl aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisi loxane)-s-triazine, the 3,3'-(l,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-dipenyl-l,2,4,-triazine and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine, in particular bis-ethylhexyloxyphen methoxyphenyltriazine.

[0164] The quantity of the (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] The quantity of the (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] The quantity of the (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Surfactant)

[0167] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one surfactant. If two or more surfactants are used, they may be identical or different.

[0168] The (c) surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of (c1) anionic surfactants, (c2) cationic surfactants, (c3) amphoteric surfactants, (c4) non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0169] It is preferable that the (c) surfactant be chosen from the group consisting of (e3) amphoteric surfactants, (c4) non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0170] The quantity of the (c) surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Furthermore, the quantity of the (c) surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] The quantity of the (c) surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0173] In one embodiment, the quantity of the (c) surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.6% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.7% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] In one embodiment, the quantity of the (c) surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 0.5% and 15% by weight or less, preferably from 0.6% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] Anionic surfactant:

[0176] It may be preferable that the (cl) anionic surfactant be selected from the group consisting of C6-C30 alkyl sulfates, C6-C30 alkyl ether sulfates, C6-C30 alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; C6-C30 alkyl sulfonates, C6-C30 alkylamide sulfonates, C6-C30 alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, and paraffin sulfonates; C6-C30 alkyl phosphates; C6-C30 alkyl sulfosuccinates, C6-C30 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, C6-C30 alkylamide sulfosuccinates; C6-C30 alkyl sulfoacetates; C6-C24 acyl sarcosinates; C6-C24 acyl glutamates; (C6-C30 alkyl) carboxylic ethers; (C6-C30 alkyl) polyglycoside sulfosuccinates; C6-C30 alkyl sulfosuccinamates; C6-C24 acyl isethionates; N-(C6-C24 acyl) taurates;C6-C30 fatty acid salts; acid salts; of coconut oil or acid salts of hydrogenated coconut oil; C8-C20 acyl lactylates; (C6-C30 alkyl)-D-galactosideuronic acid salts; (C6-C30 alkyl)ethercarboxylic polyoxyalkylenated acid salts; (C6-C30 alkyl)ethercarboxylic polyoxyalkylenated acid salts and (C6-C30 alkyl)amidoethercarboxylic polyoxyalkylenated acid salts; and their corresponding acid forms.

[0177] In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, such as alkali metal salts, for example sodium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium; ammonium salts; amine salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in acidic form.

[0178] Cationic surfactant:

[0179] The (c2) cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts optionally polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] According to one embodiment, the (c2) cationic surfactant that can be used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenyllamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0181] Amphoteric surfactant:

[0182] Amphoteric (c3) surfactants (zwitterionic surfactants) may be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain including 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate), and phospholipids.

[0183] The (c3) amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and carboxylated amidoamine derivatives, and phospholipids.

[0184] In one embodiment, the (c3) amphoteric surfactant may be selected from betaine-type surfactants.

[0185] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobétaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular (C8-C24 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C24 alkyl)amido(Ci-C8 alkyl)betaines, sulfobétaines, and (C8-C24 alkyl)amido(Ci-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines. In a mode of For production, the (c3) amphoteric surfactants of the betaine type are chosen from among the (C8-C24 alkyl)betaines, the (C8-C24 alkyl)amido(Ci-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines, the sulfobetaines, and the phosphobetaines.

[0186] Non-limiting examples that may be cited include compounds classified in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th edition, 2014, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or in mixtures.

[0187] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type is preferably an alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0188] Among the carboxylated amidoamine derivatives, we can cite the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in US patents Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names amphocarboxyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates, having the respective structures:

[0189] RrCONHCH2CH2-N+(R2)(R3)(CH2COO) M+

[0190] in which:

[0191] - Ri designates an alkyl radical of an acid RrCOOH present in coconut oil hydrolyzed, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,

[0192] - R2 designates a beta-hydroxyethyl group,

[0193] - R3 designates a carboxymethyl group,

[0194] - M+ denotes a cationic ion derived from alkali metals such as sodium; an ion ammonium; or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0195] X denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, Ci-C4 alkyl sulfates, Ci-C4 alkyl sulfonates or Ci-C4 alkyl aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M+ and X are not present;

[0196] Ri'-CONCH2CH2-N(B)(C) (B2)

[0197] in which:

[0198] - Rf designates an alkyl radical of an acid Ri'-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C7, C9, Cn or Ci3 alkyl radical, a Cn alkyl radical and its isoform, or a Cn unsaturated radical,

[0199] - B represents-CH2CH2OX',

[0200] - C represents -(CH2)Z-Y', with z=l or 2,

[0201] - X' denotes a group -CH2-COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2- COOZ' or a hydrogen atom, and

[0202] - Y' denotes a radical -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z', -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or a radical -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z',

[0203] in which Z' represents an ion of an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;

[0204] and

[0205] Ra-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)-NH-(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (B'2)

[0206] in which:

[0207] - Y' ' denotes -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ' ', -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3- Z”, in which Z” denotes a cationic ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;

[0208] - Rd and Re denote a Ci-C4 alkyl or Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;

[0209] - Ra designates an alkyl or alkenyl group in the C10-C3 form of an acid, and

[0210] - n and n' independently denote an integer from 1 to 3.

[0211] It is preferable that the (c3) amphoteric surfactant of formula B1 and B2 be selected from C8-C24 alkyl amphomonoacetates, C8-C24 alkyl amphomonopropionates and C8-C24 alkyl amphodipropionates.

[0212] These compounds are listed in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0213] As an example, we can cite cacaomphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia Chimie under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate.

[0214] Among the compounds of formula (B'2), we can mention sodium diethylaminopropyl cacaospartamide (CTFA) marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0215] It is preferable that the (c3) amphoteric surfactant be chosen from among the phospholipids. The phospholipids may be chosen from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, lysolecithin, hydrogenated lysolecithin, hydroxylated lecithin, and a mixture thereof.

[0216] Non-ionic surfactant:

[0217] The (c4) nonionic surfactants may be selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylated alcohols, optionally polyoxyethylened alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl- and sorbitan polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally glycerol polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, and optionally glycerol polyoxyethylenated alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof. These are explained below. 1. The alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used are those having an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs ranging from 2 to 200. Examples that can be cited include stearate 40 EO, stearate 50 EO, stearate 100 EO, laurate 20 EO, laurate 40 EO and distearate 150 EO. 2. The alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used are those having an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs ranging from 2 to 200. Examples that can be cited include cetyl ether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth 100 and beheneth 100. 3. Oxyalkylated alcohols, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated, which are preferably used are those which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, in particular containing from 20 to 100 oxyethylene motifs, in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular in C8-C24 and preferably in Ci2-Ci8, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name Steareth-20), for example Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name Ceteareth-30), and the mixture of fatty alcohols in Ci2-Ci5 comprising 7 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name Ci2-Ci5 Pareth-7), for example the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals;or in particular oxyalkylated (oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated) alcohols containing 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, in particular fatty alcohols ethoxylated in C8-C24 and preferably in Ci2-Ci8, such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name Steareth-2), for example Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema. ; 4. The alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated, that are preferably used are those having an ethylene oxide (EO) number from 0 to 100. Examples that may be cited include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as the product Tween 20 sold by Uniqema, palmitate of sorbitan 20 OE, sorbitan stearate 20 OE, sorbitan oleate 20 OE, or BASF's Cremophor products (RH 40, RH 60, etc.). 5. The optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl- and polyalkyl-sorbitan ethers that are preferably used are those having an ethylene oxide (EO) motif number from 0 to 100. 6. The alkyl- or polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides which are preferably used are those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group comprising preferably from 1 to 5 and in particular 1, 2 or 3 glucoside motifs.Alkyl polyglucosides can be chosen, for example, from decyl glucoside (alkyl-ClCi / Cn-polyglucoside (1,4)), for example the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by Cognis or Oramix CG 110® by SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; coco glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylyl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof. 7. Examples of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose that are The preferred ones used are sucrose laurate sold by Mitsubishi-Kagaku Foods under the name Surfhope® SE COSME C-1216, sucrose palmitate sold by Mitsubishi-Kagaku Foods under the names Ryoto Sugar Ester P-1670 and Surfhope® SE COSME C-1616, sucrose stearate sold under the name Crodesta F160, and sucrose cocoate sold by Evonik under the name Tegosoft® LSE 65K Soft. 8. The alkyl and polyalkyl glycerol esters optionally polyoxyethylenated that are preferably used are those having an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs from 0 to 100 and a glycerol number of motifs from 1 to 30. Examples that may be cited include hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.

[0218] In one embodiment, the (c4) nonionic surfactant may be selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0219] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have a polyglycerol fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols, and more preferably from 2 to 6 glycerols. In other words, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise from 2 to 10 polyglyceryl units, preferably from 2 to 8 polyglyceryl units, and more preferably from 2 to 6 polyglyceryl units.

[0220] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from mono-, di- and tri-esters of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably of saturated fatty acids, including from 4 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0221] It is preferable that the (c4) nonionic surfactant be chosen from polyglyceryl monoesters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid.

[0222] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB (lipophilic-hydrophilic equilibrium) value of 7.0 to 16.0, preferably 7.5 to 15.5, and more preferably 8.0 to 15.0. The term HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium) is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. If two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0223] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG-2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG-2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG-4 oleate (HLB: 8.8), PG-4 laurate (HLB: 10.4), PG-4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), PG-5 laurate (HLB: 15.8), PG-6 isostearate (HLB: 10.8), PG-3 cocoate (HLB: 12.0), PG-3 caprate (HLB: 10.0), PG-4 caprylate (HLB: 14), PG-4 caprate (HLB: 14.0), PG-5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG-5 stearate (HLB: 15.0), PG-5 oleate (HLB: 14.9), PG-6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG-6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG-6 laurate (HLB: 14.5), and mixtures thereof.

[0224] It may be preferable that the (c4) nonionic surfactant be chosen from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, more preferably saturated fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, and even more preferably saturated fatty acid polyglyceryl monoesters such as PG-4 caprate.

[0225] 9. The alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycerol ethers optionally polyoxyethylenated which are preferably used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol motifs from 1 to 30. Examples which may be cited include Nikkol Batyl 100 alcohol and Nikkol Chimyl 100 alcohol.

[0226] It is preferable that the (c4) nonionic surfactant be chosen from alkyl or polyalkyl esters of sucrose, more preferably from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, and a mixture thereof. (Oil)

[0227] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0228] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0229] The (d) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0230] The (d) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0231] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0232] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0233] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane-type oils, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0234] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0235] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0236] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0237] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols, and esters of non-sugar C4-C26 monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, may also be used.

[0238] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroylsarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentylglycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0239] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C12-C22, may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0240] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0241] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C3o, and preferably in Ci2-C22-If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0242] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0244] Monoesters and diesters are used in particular, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0245] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0246] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyllauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate isohexyl, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, cetearyl isononanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0247] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0248] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0249] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0250] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups linked via a hydrocarbon group.

[0251] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0252] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0253] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably, of 4 to 5 silicon atoms. This is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also included are dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane cyclocopolymers, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, with the formula:

[0254] D» _ ------g* - 0' — C FL U 1 \ i \ with D* ■ — - O — and with D' : _ St ​​- O — II

[0255] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0256] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0257] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0258] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0259] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0260] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0261] - oils from the Dow Corning 200 series, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and

[0262] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0263] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0264] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenylsilicone oil.

[0265] The phenylsilicone oil may be selected from phenylsilicones of the following formula:

[0266] in which

[0267] - Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, hydrocarbon radicals in saturated or unsaturated C1-C30, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon radicals, and more preferably Cr hydrocarbon radicals C6, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0268] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 up to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0269] provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.

[0270] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

[0271] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia;

[0272] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0273] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0274] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;

[0275] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0276] As a phenylsilicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (Ri to R10 are a methyl; p, qetn = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0277] Organomodified liquid silicones may contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0278] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0279] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0280] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0281] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, a mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), a paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; a hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and a decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0282] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols containing 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.

[0283] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0284] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0285] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0286] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from among the saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, preferably the saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably the saturated, linear or branched Ci2-C20 alcohols.

[0287] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be selected from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C2O fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may preferably be used. Any saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohol, linear or branched, may more preferably be used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may even more preferably be used.

[0288] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0289] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0290] It is preferable that the (d) oil be chosen from polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroylsarcosinate, and one of their mixtures.

[0291] The quantity of (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0292] The quantity of (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less and, more preferably, 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0293] The quantity of (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight and, more preferably, from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0294] The composition according to the present invention may include (e) water.

[0295] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more and, more preferably, 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0296] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less and, more preferably, 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0297] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% to 80% by weight, preferably from 45% to 75% by weight and, more preferably, from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Optional ingredients)

[0298] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.

[0299] The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be chosen from the group consisting, for example, of polyols; cationic, anionic, or amphoteric surfactants; perfumes; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.

[0300] The quantity of the optional ingredient or ingredients) or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. (Methods of implementation)

[0301] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0302] from 0.1% to 35% by weight of (a) at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter; and

[0303] from 0.1% to 20% by weight of (b) at least one organic UV filter,

[0304] in which

[0305] the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) / the quantity of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, and more preferably greater than 0.7.

[0306] According to another, more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0307] - from 0.5% to 30% by weight of (a') at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter having at least one coating comprising at least one anionic surfactant and / or at least one non-ionic surfactant; and

[0308] - from 0.5% to 15% by weight of (b') at least one organic UV filter selected from the triazine compounds

[0309] - the weight ratio of the quantity of the (a) inorganic UV filter(s) amphiphile(s) / the quantity of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, and more preferably greater than 0.7.

[0310] According to another, even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0311] - from 1% to 25% by weight of (a”) titanium dioxide (and) silica (and) phosphate cetyl; and

[0312] - from 1% to 10% by weight of (b”) bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine,

[0313] wherein the weight ratio of the amount of (a”) titanium dioxide (and) silica (and) cetyl phosphate / amount of (b”) bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine in the composition is 0.6 to 30, preferably 0.8 to 15, and more preferably 1 to 4. (Preparation)

[0314] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.

[0315] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. (Shape)

[0316] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not limited. For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a suspension or a dispersion.

[0317] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O), or multiphase dispersion or emulsion (for example, W / O / O and W / O / O), preferably an O / W or W / O dispersion or emulsion, and more preferably an O / W dispersion or emulsion when combined with at least one oil and water. Thus, if the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one oil and (e) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form, for example, of an O / W type composition, such as an O / W dispersion or emulsion.

[0318] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O / W dispersion or emulsion.

[0319] The composition according to the present invention, in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion or emulsion, may comprise dispersed fatty phases, such as oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water gel dispersion or emulsion.

[0320] The H / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase and, consequently, the composition according to the present invention having the H / W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant sensation when used because of the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

[0321] The oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophobic ingredient in addition to the (d) oil.

[0322] For example, the oil phase of the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one lipophilic or liposoluble cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used, or two or more different types of such a cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.

[0323] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0324] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less and, more preferably, 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0325] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight and, more preferably, from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0326] The aqueous phase, if present, in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophilic ingredient in addition to (e) water.

[0327] For example, the aqueous phase, if present, of the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used, or two or more different types of such a cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.

[0328] In addition, the aqueous phase may include at least one pH adjuster, such as an acid and a base, and / or at least one organic solvent, such as a diol and a polyol.

[0329] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more and, more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0330] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less and, more preferably, 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0331] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 85% by weight and, more preferably, from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0332] The weight ratio of the oil phase to the aqueous phase can be from 50 / 50 to 10 / 90, preferably from 50 / 50 to 15 / 85 and, more preferably, from 50 / 50 to 20 / 80. (Application)

[0333] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition for a keratinous material, preferably as a cosmetic composition for the skin, and more preferably as a cosmetic composition for the skin to protect the skin against UV rays.

[0334] The keratinous material encompasses the skin and mucous membranes. The skin here includes the skin of the face, the skin of the neck, and the scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes, such as the lips.

[0335] In particular, the composition according to the present invention may be a sunscreen composition or an anti-UV composition. [Procedure and use]

[0336] The present invention may also relate to:

[0337] - a cosmetic process for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising: the application to keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention; or

[0338] - a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a protective UV film on a keratinous material, such as skin.

[0339] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic process for protecting a keratinous material, such as the skin, against UV rays, such as those from the sun.

[0340] The present invention may also relate to a use of: a. at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter, preferably an amphiphilic metal oxide, and more preferably an amphiphilic TiO2; and b. at least one organic UV filter,

[0341] in a composition,

[0342] in which

[0343] the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) / the quantity of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, and more preferably greater than 0.7,

[0344] so that the composition presents a balance between acceptable whiteness and an acceptable oily feel.

[0345] The composition may further comprise (c) at least one surfactant, (d) at least one oil and (e) water.

[0346] The above explanations concerning the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter and the (b) organic UV filter, as well as the (c) surfactant, (d) oil and (e) water, for the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to those in the above use. EXAMPLES

[0347] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Example 1 and 2 [Preparation]

[0348] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 and 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" of active substances.

[0349] Elements (a) to (e) in Table 1 correspond to those explained above in the descriptive memorandum.

[0350] [Tables 1] Ex. com p. 1 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. com p. 2 (a) Titanium dioxide (and) Silica (and) Cetyl phosphate * (D 20 15 12 10 8 6 5 1 (b) Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine*(2) - 1 3 4 5 6 6 3 (d) Dicaprylyl carbonate 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 (c4) Sucrose laurate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 (c3) Hydrogenated lecithin 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 (b) Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane - - - - - - - 2 (b) Ethylhexyltriazone - - - - - - - 4.75 (b) Drometrizole trisiloxane - - - - - - - 4 (b) Hexyl diethylamino hydroxybenzyl benzoate - - - - - - - 1.5 Glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 (e) Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 (a) / Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine - 15 4 2.5 1.6 1 0.83 0.33 (a) / (b) - 15 4 2.5 1.6 1 0.83 0.07 UV Absorbance 0.85 0.90 1.10 1.11 1.25 1.26 1.23 1.53 Whiteness 40.8 3 38.3 4 36.4 1 34.2 0 34.0 4 31.2 7 31.5 8 32.4 4 Oily Feeling 4.5 4.5 4 4 4 3 2.5 1 1- Sold by Merck under the name Eusolex® T-EASY 2. Sold by DSM Nutritional Products under the name Parsol® Shield

[0351] (a) / Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine: Weight ratio of the amount of ingredient (a) / the amount of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine

[0352] (a) / (b): Weight ratio of the quantity of ingredient (a)da quantity of the ingredient(s) (b) [Evaluations] (UV absorbance)

[0353] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was transferred onto a plate (Helio HD 6 plate, PMMA, roughness: 6 µm) using an adjustable pipette at a concentration of 0.8 mg / cm² of the plate, and then spread evenly with the fingers. The coated plate was air-dried for 15 minutes at room temperature. The resulting sample plate was placed in a Labsphere ultraviolet transmission analyzer (Solar UV-2000 model). Light Company, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). Irradiation took place at 12 points on the sample plate. The UV absorbance of the coated plate at wavelengths from 250 to 420 nm was recorded.

[0354] The UV absorbance at a wavelength of 310 nm of each composition is shown in Table 1. (Whiteness)

[0355] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was applied as a thin film (50 sq m) onto contrast plates (Erichsen, Rueil-Malmaison) using a standardized applicator (Elcometer 4340, La Chapelle Saint Mesmin). The coated contrast plates were left at room temperature for 24 minutes to dry. Then, the L* value of each coated plate was measured at 3 different points on the black and white areas using a spectrophotometer (CM-700d, Konica Minolta, Japan). Whiteness was expressed as a ratio (L*black / L*white)*100.

[0356] The whiteness of each composition is indicated in Table 1. (Greasy feeling)

[0357] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 and 2 was applied to the hands of experts by the experts themselves. The experts then assessed the greasy feel of each composition using their fingers. More specifically, the level of greasy feeling perceived between the fingers and on the surface of the skin of the hands was evaluated by assigning a score according to the following criteria. The less greasy the feeling, the higher the score.

[0358] 5: Very good

[0359] 4: Good

[0360] 3: Passable

[0361] 2: Bad

[0362] 1: Very bad

[0363] The average of the grades was calculated. The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)

[0364] Compositions according to examples 1 to 6 may have good UV absorbance, as well as acceptable whiteness and acceptable or improved oily texture.

[0365] The composition according to comparative example 1, which did not include any organic UV filter, provided lower UV absorbance and higher whiteness.

[0366] The composition according to comparative example 2, which included a small amount of an amphiphilic inorganic UV filter compared to an amount of an organic UV filter, in particular bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine, provided a very oily texture.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, comprising: (a) at least one amphiphilic inorganic UV filter, preferably an amphiphilic metal oxide, and more preferably an amphiphilic TiO2; and (b) at least one organic UV filter, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter(s) / the amount of (b) organic UV filter(s) in the composition is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, and more preferably greater than 0.

7.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter comprises at least one coating comprising at least one amphiphilic material, preferably at least one surfactant, more preferably at least one anionic surfactant and / or at least one non-ionic surfactant.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the (a) amphiphilic inorganic UV filter comprises at least one coating comprising (i) at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl phosphates and their salts, preferably from C8-C26 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, more preferably from Ci2-C22 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, even more preferably from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate and a mixture thereof, and in particular cetyl phosphate;and / or (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from - esters of a fatty acid, preferably of a C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably of a C16-C22 fatty acid, and (poly)oxyalkylated sorbitol esters, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylened such as polysorbate-20, polysorbate-40, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-65, polysorbate-80 and polysorbate-85; - esters of a C12-C20 fatty acid and a polyglycerol comprising 3 to 12 glycerol groups, preferably 6 to 10 glycerol groups such as polyglyceryl-6 stearate, isostearate; of polyglyceryl-6, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate and polyglyceryl-10 oleate; and - mixtures thereof, preferably (i) at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl phosphates and their salts, preferably from C8-C26 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, more preferably from C12-C22 alkyl monophosphates and their salts, still more preferably from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and a mixture thereof, and in particular cetyl phosphate.

4. Composition according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the coating further comprises at least one hydrophilic compound selected from the group consisting of silica, hydrated silica, alumina and aluminum hydroxide; at least one lipophilic compound selected from the group consisting of stearic acid and isostearic acid; or mixtures thereof, preferably at least one hydrophilic compound selected from the group consisting of silica, hydrated silica, alumina and aluminum hydroxide, and more preferably silica.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) organic UV filter is selected from lipophilic organic UV filters, preferably from triazine compounds, and more preferably from the group consisting of ethylhexyltriazone, diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, 2,4,6-tris(4'-dineopentyl aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-diisobutyl aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(4'-dineopentyl aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, 3,3'-( 1,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-dipenyl-1,2,4,-triazine and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine, in particular bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (c) at least a surfactant, preferably selected from (c3) amphoteric surfactants, (c4) non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one oil, preferably selected from polar oils and, more preferably, from ester oils.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (e) water.

9. Composition according to claim 8, wherein the composition is in the form of an O / W dispersion or emulsion.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises, in relation to the total weight of the composition: - from 1% to 25% by weight of (a”) titanium dioxide (and) silica (and) cetyl phosphate; and - from 1% to 10% by weight of (b”) bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of (a”) titanium dioxide (and) silica (and) cetyl phosphate / amount of (b”) bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyltriazine in the composition is 0.6 to 30, preferably 0.8 to 15, and more preferably 1 to 4.