Makeup composition of keratinous materials
A makeup composition using alkylcellulose, a polyester of a natural oil, and a C8-28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester addresses the challenge of achieving both long-lasting gloss and uniform color in lip products, providing enhanced visual appeal.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-01-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-12
AI Technical Summary
Current makeup products, particularly lip products, struggle to simultaneously achieve a long-lasting glossy effect and desirable color uniformity in a single formulation.
A composition comprising alkylcellulose, a polyester of a natural oil containing a hydroxyl group and a dimeric acid, and a C8-28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is used to provide a durable glossy effect and desirable color uniformity.
The composition achieves a long-lasting glossy effect and uniform color, enhancing the appearance of keratinous materials such as the lips.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Makeup composition of keratinous materials. Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. Preferably, the present invention relates to a makeup composition of keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a method for applying makeup to keratinous materials. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Skin and / or lip makeup compositions are produced to meet the needs of skin and / or lip makeup. These compositions can be formulated in a variety of forms and can offer a variety of makeup finishes, such as matte, highly pigmented, satin, radiant, and glossy, and may even include pearls for a pearlescent effect.
[0003] Currently, makeup products that can provide a glossy finish are particularly popular in many countries, especially lip products such as lipstick, lip gloss, and lip oil. Many artisans are dedicated to developing oil-based lip products with an intense glossy effect and uniform color. However, for current makeup products, it is difficult to simultaneously achieve a long-lasting glossy effect and a desirable color uniformity in a single formulation.
[0004] Therefore, there is a need for a composition, preferably for makeup of keratinous materials, for example as a lip product, which can simultaneously provide a long-lasting shine effect and a desirable color uniformity effect. Summary of the invention
[0005] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.
[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably a makeup composition of keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one alkylcellulose; b. at least one polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimeric acid; and c. at least one C8.28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.
[0007] The composition according to the present invention can simultaneously provide a durable glossy effect and a desirable color uniformity effect.
[0008] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method of making up keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising: the application of the composition according to the first aspect on the keratinous materials.
[0009] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0010] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0011] The articles “a” and “an,” as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the patent memorandum and claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more.”
[0012] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features, or even any features other than the specifically mentioned features, are present (such as "essentially consisting of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "essentially consisting of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and new features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and new features may be included in the embodiment.
[0013] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity The terms "approximately" and "approximately" used in the description and claims should be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Therefore, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that may be adjusted to achieve the desired performance as required. The term "approximately" when referring to a specific value is intended to denote a range within ±5% of the value, for example: within ±3%, ±2%, ±1%, and ±0.5% of the value.
[0014] As used herein, the expression "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" includes all skin on the body, including the scalp. Preferably, "keratinous material(s)" refers to the lips. Alkylcelluloses
[0015] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkylcellulose.
[0016] As used here, the term "alkyl" refers to a saturated hydrocarbon group formed by the removal of a hydrogen atom from an alkane molecule and containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0017] Preferably, the alkyl portion of Talkylcellulose contains two to eight carbon atoms, and preferably two to four carbon atoms. More preferably, Talkylcellulose is selected from ethylcelluloses, propylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, Talkylcellulose is an ethylcellulose.
[0018] According to the present invention, T alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether, preferably a C2-C8 cellulose alkyl ether, more preferably a C2-C4 cellulose alkyl ether, and even more preferably a cellulose ethyl ether in the case of Tethylcellulose, comprising a chain consisting of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being capable of reacting according to the following reaction: RONa + R'CI → ROR' + NaCb
[0019] in which R represents a cellulose radical and R' represents an alkyl group, preferably a C2-C4 alkyl group, and more preferably C2H5.
[0020] The alkylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention can be in powder form.
[0021] Examples of alkylcellulose polymers that can be used in the composition according to the present invention include the products sold by Hercules, Inc. (Wilmington, Del.) under the name "Aqualon®Ethylcellulose".
[0022] The “Aqualon®Ethylcellulose” products are referenced according to four categories (type K, N, T or X) depending on the ethoxy group content, as shown in Table 1 below.
[0023] [Tables 1] Aquaion® product type K type N type T type X Ethoxy group content (%) 45.0 to 47.2 48.0 to 49.5 49.6 to 51.5 50.5 to 52.5 Degree of ethoxy group substitution by anhydroglucose motif 2.22 to 2.41 2.46 to 2.57 2.58 to 2.73 2.65 to 2.81
[0024] The various ethylcellulose polymers are also specified according to the measured viscosity of a 5 wt% ethylcellulose solution in a toluene:ethanol (80:20) mixture. For example, the product "Aqualon K100 Ethylcellulose" designates the type K ethylcellulose polymer, i.e., comprising 45 to 47.2% ethoxy groups (or a degree of ethoxy group substitution by anhydroglucose motif ranging from 2.22 to 2.41), and having, at 5 wt% in a toluene:ethanol (80:20) mixture, an average viscosity of 100 mPa-s.
[0025] The "Aqualon®Ethylcellulose" products of categories N, T, X are also referenced according to their viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene:ethanol mixture (80:20) at 25 °C (the measurements being carried out according to the ASTM D914 procedure), as shown in Table 2 below.
[0026] [Tables2] Aquaion® Type N Product Aquaion® Type T Product Aquaion® Type X Product Viscosity (mPa.s at 25°C in 80 / 20 toluene / ethanol) N4 - - 3 to 5.5 N7 - - 5.6 to 8 N10 T10 - 8 to 11 N14 - - 12 to 16 N22 - X22 18 to 24 N50 T50 - 40 to 52 N100 T100 - 80 to 105 N200 T200 X200 150 to 250 N300 T300 - 250 to 350
[0027] Preferably, the alkylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer comprising a degree of ethoxy group substitution by anhydroglucose motif ranging from 2.46 to 2.73, and preferably from 2.46 to 2.57.
[0028] Preferably, the ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is an ethylcellulose polymer having a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene:ethanol (80:20) mixture at 25 °C between 3 and 350 mPa-s, preferably between 3 and 105 mPa-s, more preferably between 3 and 24 mPa-s, even more preferably between 3 and 11 mPa-s, and even more preferably between 5.6 and 8 mPa-s.
[0029] Thus, N-type or T-type ethylcelluloses are preferred, preferably N-type, sold by the company Aqualon.
[0030] More preferably, the ethylcellulose used in a composition according to the invention is the product sold by Ashland under the name "Aqualon EC N7 Pharm", which has a viscosity at 5% by weight in a toluene:ethanol (80:20) mixture at 25 °C between 6 and 8 mPa-s.
[0031] Advantageously, alkylcellulose is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] Polyesters of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimeric acid
[0033] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimeric acid.
[0034] As used herein, the term "natural oil" refers to an oil derived from plants, animals, and / or minerals. Preferably, the natural oil is extracted from plants or other forms of vegetative life (as opposed to oils obtained by synthetic reactions). Vegetable oils comprise mono-, di-, and / or triglycerides, which are generally mono-, di-, and / or triesters of fatty acids and glycerol. Vegetable oils may also comprise at least one free fatty acid. In some cases, vegetable oils comprise 1% or less by weight, 0.5% or less by weight, or 0.1% or less by weight of at least one free fatty acid.The fatty acid fractions of the mono-, di- and / or triglycerides and / or the free fatty acid have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, preferably from C6 to C24, and more preferably from C8 to C24, or from C8 to C22, or from C12 to C20, or from C12 to C18, these chains being able to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched. Preferably, the fatty acid fractions of the mono-, di- and / or triglycerides and / or the free fatty acid comprise at least one unsaturated chain, which is further hydrogenated to be partially or totally saturated.
[0035] As used herein, the expression "polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid" refers to a polyester which is obtained by the esterification of at least one dimer acid and a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group.
[0036] The dimeric acid is preferably obtained by an intermolecular polymerization reaction, for example a dimerization reaction, of at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid.
[0037] Representatives of these unsaturated carboxylic acids may be palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0038] Preferably, the dimeric acid is unsaturated and is derived from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C24, preferably of an unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C22, and more preferably of an unsaturated fatty acid in Ci8.
[0039] More preferably, the dimeric acid is dilinoleic acid.
[0040] Preferably, the polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid is chosen from the esters of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid derived from the dimerization of a Ci6-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably of a Ci6-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably of a Ci8 unsaturated fatty acid.
[0041] More preferably, the polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and of a dimer acid is chosen from the esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of a dimer acid derived from the dimerization of a Ci6-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably of a Ci6-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably of a Ci8 unsaturated fatty acid.
[0042] Even more preferably, the polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid is selected from the esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, such as the hydrogenated castor oil dilinoleate dimer sold under the names Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).
[0043] Advantageously, the polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid polyglyceryl esters
[0044] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one C8.28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.
[0045] Preferably, the C8 28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester suitable for the present invention is chosen from C8 28 fatty acid polyglyceryl esters having a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, preferably from 2 to 8 glycerol motifs.
[0046] More preferably, the C8 28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from esters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s) (preferably saturated) including 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, preferably from 2 to 8 glycerol motifs, and more preferably from 2 to 6 glycerol motifs.
[0047] Non-limiting examples of the C8 fatty acid polyglycerol ester include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-4 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 decalinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-3 dicocoate, polyglyceryl-10 didecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-2 dioleate, polyglyceryl-3 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dipalmitate,polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 distearate, polyglyceryl-3 distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisotearate, polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 heptastearate, polyglyceryl-6 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isopalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / succinate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate,polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-8 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 pentalaurate, polyglyceryl-10 pentalinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-3 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-6 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, polyricinoleate of polyglyceryl-3, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate,polyglyceryl-6 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-10 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-2 tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, triisostearate of, polyglyceryl-3, polyglyceryl-10 trioleate, polyglyceryl-4 tristearate and polyglyceryl-10 tristearate.
[0048] Preferred examples of C8 28 fatty acid polyglycerol ester include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate.
[0049] A preferred example of the C8 28 fatty acid polyglycerol ester is polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, for example that sold under the name Cosmol 43 V by the Nisshin OilliO company.
[0050] Advantageously, the C8.28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. High viscosity esters
[0051] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one high viscosity ester selected from sugar monoesters and polyesters.
[0052] As used herein, the expression "high viscosity ester" means an ester having a viscosity of at least 10,000 cps at 30 °C.
[0053] Preferably, the high viscosity ester according to the present invention has a viscosity ranging from 20,000 cps to 500,000 cps at 30 °C, preferably from 30,000 cps to 300,000 cps at 30 °C, and more preferably from 50,000 cps to 200,000 cps at 30 °C.
[0054] As used herein, the term "sugar" refers to an aldehyde and / or ketone having two or more hydroxyl groups, or an organic compound that can be hydrolyzed to generate an aldehyde and / or ketone having two or more hydroxyl groups. These esters are derived from the hydroxyl groups of a sugar and one or more carboxylic acid fractions. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature.
[0055] Suitable liquid esters include, but are not limited to: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetralinoleate, mannose tetralinoleate, galactose tetraoleate, arabinose tetralinoleate, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexalinoleate, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Suitable solid esters include, but are not limited to: a sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are palmitoleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1:2; a raffinose octaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3; a sucrose octaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2:6; and a sucrose octaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3:4.
[0057] In one embodiment, the high-viscosity ester is a sucrose polyester in which the fatty acid ester fractions are mono- and / or di-unsaturated C[8] and behenate, in a molar ratio of mono- and / or di-unsaturated C[8:behenate from 1:7 to 3:5. In another embodiment, the sugar polyester is a sucrose octaester in which there are about 7 fractions of behenic fatty acid and about 1 fraction of oleic acid in the molecule.
[0058] Preferably, the high-viscosity ester is selected from Ci-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars. More preferably, the high-viscosity ester is selected from Ci-Ci8 polyesters of sugars. Even more preferably, the high-viscosity ester is selected from C2-C6 carboxylic acid sucrose esters. Even more preferentially, the high viscosity ester is chosen from among mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, for example sucrose diacetate hexakis(2-methylpropanoate), such as the product sold under the name Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by Eastman Chemical (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate), which has a viscosity of about 100,000 cps at 30 °C and a refractive index of about 1.5 at 20 °C.
[0059] Advantageously, the high viscosity ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Triglycerides of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid
[0060] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid.
[0061] As used herein, the expression "triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid" or "triglyceride derived from at least one C8-C30 fatty acid" refers to a triglyceride that can be obtained from the esterification of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid.
[0062] According to the present invention, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is different from or does not include polyesters obtained from the esterification of at least one dimeric acid and a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group as defined above.
[0063] Preferably, the C8-C3O fatty acid is chosen from C8-C24 fatty acids, preferably Ci2-Ci8 fatty acids, which can be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0064] In addition, the C8-C30 fatty acid is optionally hydroxylated, and can be monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated.
[0065] According to the present invention, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid can be derived from the same C8-C30 fatty acid or from different C8-C30 fatty acids. Furthermore, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid can be derived from at least one saturated C8-C30 fatty acid, from at least one unsaturated C8-C30 fatty acid, or from both at least one saturated C8-C30 fatty acid and at least one saturated C8-C30 fatty acid.
[0066] Preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is chosen from the triglycerides of one or more saturated or unsaturated C8-C24 fatty acid(s), linear or branched, and preferably of Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid(s).
[0067] Preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is further totally or partially hydrogenated when it comprises at least one triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid comprising at least one unsaturated C8-C30 fatty acid.
[0068] More preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is selected from the triglycerides of at least one saturated C8-C30 fatty acid, linear or branched, preferably a C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably a C[2-Ci8] fatty acid, and of at least one unsaturated C8-C30 fatty acid, linear or branched, preferably a C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably a Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid, which triglycerides are further totally or partially hydrogenated.
[0069] A preferred example of a triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is that sold under the name Softisan 100® by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides).
[0070] Advantageously, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] Polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid
[0072] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polyester resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid.
[0073] According to the present invention, the dicarboxylic acid can be linear or branched, and preferably comprises from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably comprises from 4 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0074] As used here, the term “diglycerol” refers to a viscous hygroscopic liquid polyhydroxyether O(CH2CHOHCH2OH)2 prepared by dehydration of glycerol.
[0075] According to the present invention, the monocarboxylic acid is optionally hydroxylated, and may be linear or branched. Preferably, the monocarboxylic acid comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0076] An example of polyester resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid is polyester obtained by the condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C24 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as that bearing the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, which is notably sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by Cremer Oleo.
[0077] Advantageously, the polyester resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Dyes
[0078] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one colorant.
[0079] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "colorant" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.
[0080] The colorant envisaged in the context of the present invention can be chosen from organic or inorganic colorants, soluble in water or insoluble in water, liposoluble or non-liposoluble.
[0081] The colorant can be chosen from dyes, pigments, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the colorant is chosen from pigments.
[0082] The term “dye” refers to a colored substance that chemically bonds to the substrate to which it is applied, and is generally applied in an aqueous solution and may require a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye to the fiber. The term “pigment” refers to white mineral or organic particles or colored, which are insoluble in an aqueous or oily medium, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit(s).
[0083] The pigment can be chosen from coated or uncoated mineral pigments. The pigment can also be chosen from organic pigments.
[0084] The organic pigment can be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo compounds (e.g., azo yellow), xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine (e.g., phthalocyanine blue), metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone.
[0085] The organic pigment may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, CI 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470 and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0086] These pigments can also take the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder to fix the organic pigments to the core.
[0087] The pigment can also be a lake. The term "lake" refers to insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated onto insoluble particles, the resulting whole remaining insoluble during use.
[0088] The insoluble particles on which the insolubilized dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
[0089] The pigments may or may not have been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.
[0090] Among the organic pigments, we can mention cochineal carmine.
[0091] We can also mention the products, and also their lacquers, known under the following names: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850), D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15,985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61,570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77,002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42,053), D&C Bine 1 (CI 42,090).
[0092] Preferably, the colorant according to the present invention is chosen from blue organic pigments, yellow organic pigments, green organic pigments, orange organic pigments, red organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0093] More preferably, the colorant according to the present invention is chosen from among the red organic pigments, for example, Red 7 (CI 15 850).
[0094] Advantageously, the colorant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes
[0095] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one nonpolar hydrocarbon-based wax.
[0096] As used herein, the expression "nonpolar hydrocarbon-based wax" refers to a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in its structure.
[0097] As used herein, the term “wax” refers to a lipophilic solid fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0098] Among the non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, we can mention polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and their mixtures.
[0099] Preferably, the nonpolar hydrocarbon-based wax is chosen from among the microcrystalline waxes.
[0100] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based nonpolar wax is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils
[0101] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil.
[0102] The term "oil" refers to liquid compounds that are immiscible with water and non-aqueous, at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0103] According to the present invention, the oil can be chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0104] Nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil or oils are, for example, compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, hydrocarbon-type oils).
[0105] Said nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oils may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0106] Said non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils may be of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, for example:
[0107] - a liquid paraffin,
[0108] - squalane,
[0109] - isoeicosan,
[0110] - mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, for example in Ci5-C2s, such as the mixture whose INCI name is, for example, C15.19 Alkane (INCI name), for example the products Gemseal 40 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,
[0111] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers,
[0112] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example the range Parleam® sold by Nippon Oil Fats, and Indopol H-300 sold by Ineos,
[0113] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for example the Puresyn® range sold by ExxonMobil,
[0114] - and their mixtures.
[0115] Fatty alcohols include those having a fatty group having a carbon chain of 8 or more carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0116] Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and 2-hexyldecanol.
[0117] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is saturated, branched, and acyclic. A preferred example of a fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol, for example that sold under the name Eutanol G by BASF.
[0118] Preferably, the oil is selected from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] More preferably, the oil is chosen from non-hydrogenated polybutenes, non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.
[0120] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 40% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0121] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those classically used in cosmetic products, and preferably lip products.
[0122] The composition according to the present invention may include any of the following additives: biological extracts; perfumes; active ingredients; and preservatives.
[0123] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients. Composition
[0124] The composition according to the present invention is applicable to all common cosmetic products, preferably lip products.
[0125] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.
[0126] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means a composition comprising water at a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even a composition free of water. Such small quantities of water may, where appropriate, be introduced in particular by the composition ingredients, which may contain residual amounts of it.
[0127] By means of the specific components as defined above, the composition comprising them can simultaneously offer a durable glossy effect and a desirable color uniformity effect.
[0128] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0129] (a) from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one alkylcellulose;
[0130] (b) from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and one dimeric acid; and
[0131] (c) from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one polyglyceryl ester of acid C8 28 fatty acid selected from C8 28 fatty acid polyglyceryl esters having a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, preferably from 2 to 8 glycerol motifs.
[0132] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0133] (a) from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one alkylcellulose, in which the alkyl part of alkylcellulose contains two to eight carbon atoms, and preferably two to four carbon atoms;
[0134] (b) from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimeric acid selected from the esters of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimeric acid derived from the dimerization of a Ci6-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a Ci6-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably a Ci8 unsaturated fatty acid; and
[0135] (c) from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one polyglyceryl ester of acid C8 28 fat selected from the esters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s) (preferably saturated) including 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs, preferably 2 to 8 glycerol motifs, and more preferably 2 to 6 glycerol motifs.
[0136] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 1% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one alkylcellulose chosen from ethylcelluloses, propylcelluloses and mixtures thereof, and preferably an ethylcellulose; b. 1% by weight to 8% by weight of an ester of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, and preferably of hydrogenated castor oil dilinoleate dimer; and c. 1% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one C8 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, preferably polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate. Method and use
[0137] The composition according to the present invention is used in a process of making up keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, by being applied to the keratinous materials.
[0138] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, for example using a finger, a brush or a cotton ball.
[0139] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a method of making up keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials.
[0140] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES
[0141] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers have been listed in Table 3.
[0142] [Tables3] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier ETHYLCELLULOSE (ETHYLCE LLULOSE) AQUALON EC N7 PHAR M ASHLAND CELLULOSE CELLULOBEADS D-10 DAITO KASEI K OGYO HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES (HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES) SOFTISAN 100 CREMER OLEO (IOI) HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE (HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE) RISOCAST DA-L KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE (POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE) COSMOL 43 V NISSHIN OILLI O BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (BIS-DIGLYCE RYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2) SOFTISAN 649 CREMER OLEO (IOI) OCTYLDODECANOL (OCTYLD ODECANOL) EUTANOL G BASF SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE (SUCROSE AC ETATE ISOBUTYRATE) EASTMAN SUSTANE S AIB (SUCROSE ACETA EASTMAN CHE MICAL TE ISOBUTYRATE) FO OD GRADE KOSHER POLYBUTENE (POLYBUTENE) INDOPOL H 300 INEOS MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (MI CROCRYSTALLINE WAX) PARACERA HW PARAMELT
[0143] Comparative examples 1 to 3 and Example 1 of the invention
[0144] Lipsticks according to comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 3 and example 1 of the invention (Ex.) comprising the ingredients listed in Table 4 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active materials relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0145] [Tables4] Components Ex. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 ETHYLCELLULOSE 3 0 3 3 CELLULOSE 0 3 0 0 SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE 2 2 2 2 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DILINOLEATE DIMER 3.5 3.5 0 3.5 HYDROGENATED COCONUT GLYCERIDES 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 POLYBUTENE 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE 3 3 3 0 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0 0 0 3 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 4 4 4 4 MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX 12.2 12.2 12.2 12.2 RED 7 7.4 7.4 7.4 7.4 OCTYLDODECANOL QS QS QS QS Preparation process
[0146] The lipsticks were prepared using a process comprising the following steps: 1. For each of comparative examples 1 to 3 and example 1 of the invention, mix all the ingredients at a temperature of 95 °C, stir the resulting mixture at a speed of 300 rpm using an IKA mixer (Euro model - ST P CV S25) until homogeneous; 2. Pour each of the homogenized mixtures into a lipstick mold at a temperature of 98°C, and leave them in the mold at a temperature of 25°C until solidified; and 3. Remove each of the solidified mixtures from the mold to obtain the lipsticks. Evaluation of the lasting glossy effect
[0147] Six experts were recruited to evaluate the long-lasting glossy effect and assigned scores. Each expert applied each lipstick to their lips with the same intensity for the same duration and checked how long the glossy makeup lasted. The long-lasting glossy effect was rated on a scale of 0 to 5 according to the following standard, and the average score was then calculated for each lipstick:
[0148] 4 < Scores < 5: very good long-lasting glossy effect (6 hours or more),
[0149] 3 < Scores < 4: good long-lasting glossy effect (4 to less than 6 hours),
[0150] 2 < Scores < 3: normal long-lasting glossy effect (2 to less than 4 hours),
[0151] 1 < Scores < 2: poor lasting glossy effect (1 to less than 2 hours),
[0152] 0 < Scores < 1: very poor lasting glossy effect (less than 1 hour).
[0153] The higher the scores, the better the lasting glossy effect. Color uniformity assessment
[0154] Six experts were recruited to assess the color uniformity effect and assigned scores, each expert applying each lipstick to a 4 cm x 4 cm area of the forearm with the same force to check the color uniformity of the area, including the presence of clumping or uneven color distribution. The color uniformity effect was rated on a scale of 0 to 5 according to the following standard, and then the average score was calculated for each lipstick:
[0155] 4 < Scores < 5: very good;
[0156] 3 < Scores < 4: overall good;
[0157] 2 < Scores < 3: acceptable;
[0158] 1 < Scores < 2: bad;
[0159] 0 < Scores < 1: very bad.
[0160] The higher the scores, the better the color uniformity effect.
[0161] [Tables5] Ex. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Durable Gloss 4.8 2.7 4.0 3.5 Color Uniformity 4.8 3.4 2.9 2.2
[0162] According to Table 5, it can be seen that the lipstick of Example 1 of the invention, comprising at least one alkylcellulose, at least one polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid, and at least one polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid in Cx 2*, can simultaneously offer a lasting glossy effect and a desirable color uniformity effect.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably of keratinous material makeup comprising: (a) at least one alkylcellulose; (b) at least one polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid; and (c) at least one C8-28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl portion of the alkylcellulose contains two to eight carbon atoms, and preferably two to four carbon atoms; preferably, the alkylcellulose is selected from ethylcelluloses, propylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the alkylcellulose is an ethylcellulose;more preferably, alkylcellulose is an ethylcellulose having a viscosity of 5% by weight in a toluene:ethanol (80:20) mixture at 25 °C between 3 and 350 mPa-s, preferably between 3 and 105 mPa-s, more preferably between 3 and 24 mPa-s, even more preferably between 3 and 11 mPa-s, even more preferably between 5.6 and 8 mPa-s, and most preferably between 6 and 8 mPa-s, wherein the alkylcellulose is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid is selected from esters of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid derived from the dimerization of a C6-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a C6-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably a C8 unsaturated fatty acid. Preferably, the natural oil is selected from plant oils comprising mono-, di-, and / or triglycerides and optionally at least one free fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid fractions of the mono-, di-, and / or triglycerides and / or the free fatty acid have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, preferably from C6 to C24, more preferably from C8 to C22, and even more preferably from C2 to C8, the chains being saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; Preferably, the fatty acid fractions of the mono-, di- and / or triglycerides and / or free fatty acid comprise at least one unsaturated chain, which is further hydrogenated to be partially or totally saturated; preferably, the polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid is selected from the esters of hydrogenated castor oil and a dimer acid derived from the dimerization of a Ci6-C24 unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a Ci6-C22 unsaturated fatty acid, and more preferably a C[8] unsaturated fatty acid; more preferably, the polyester of a natural oil containing at least one hydroxyl group and a dimer acid is selected from the esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, and is preferably the dilinoleate dimer of hydrogenated castor oil.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C8 28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from C8 28 fatty acid polyglyceryl esters having a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 8 glycerol units, more preferably, the C8 28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from esters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids (preferably saturated) comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 8 glycerol units, and more preferably from 2 to 6 glycerol units, plus Preferably, the C8 28 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is chosen from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate,polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a high-viscosity ester selected from the
6. sugar monoesters and polyesters, which have a viscosity of at least 10,000 cps at 30 °C; Preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from Ci-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars, and has a viscosity ranging from 20,000 cps to 500,000 cps at 30 °C, preferably from 30,000 cps to 300,000 cps at 30 °C; more preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from the Ci-Ci8 polyesters of sugars, and has a viscosity ranging from 20,000 cps to 500,000 cps at 30 °C, preferably from 30,000 cps to 300,000 cps at 30 °C; even more preferably, the high viscosity ester is chosen from among the C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose, and has a viscosity ranging from 20,000 cps to 500,000 cps at 30 °C, preferably from 30,000 cps to 300,000 cps at 30 °C; Even more preferably, the high-viscosity ester is chosen from among the mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid, and sucrose, and has a viscosity ranging from 50,000 cps to 200,000 cps at 30 °C, and Most preferably, the high-viscosity ester is sucrose diacetate hexakis(2-methylpropanoate) and has a viscosity ranging from 50,000 cps to 200,000 cps at 30 °C, wherein the high-viscosity ester is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is selected from the triglycerides of one or more saturated or unsaturated C8-C24 fatty acid(s), linear or branched, and preferably of Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid(s), and is preferably further totally or partially hydrogenated when it comprises at least one triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid comprising at least one unsaturated C8-C30 fatty acid; More preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is chosen from among the triglycerides of at least one fatty acid in
7. C8-C30 saturated, linear or branched, preferably a C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably a Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid, and at least one C8-C30 unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid, preferably a C8-C24 fatty acid, and more preferably a Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid, which triglycerides are further totally or partially hydrogenated, and even more preferably, the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is hydrogenated coconut glycerides, wherein the triglyceride of at least one C8-C30 fatty acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one polyester resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid, wherein the dicarboxylic acid is linear or branched, and preferably comprises from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and the monocarboxylic acid is linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, and preferably comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, the polyester resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid is the polyester obtained by the condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of fatty acids. C6-C24, such as caprylic acid,capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, more preferably, the polyester resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid is bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, wherein the polyester resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid is preferably present in one,
8.
9.
10. quantity ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably for the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 1% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one alkylcellulose selected from ethylcelluloses, propylcelluloses and mixtures thereof, and preferably an ethylcellulose; b) 1% by weight to 8% by weight of an ester of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, and preferably of hydrogenated castor oil dilinoleate dimer; and (c) 1% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one C8 fatty acid polyglyceryl ester selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, preferably polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is anhydrous. A process for applying makeup to keratinous materials, preferably to the lips, comprising: the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.