Composition comprising a specific oligopeptide, an oxidizing agent and / or a specific colorant

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (i) at least one compound selected from oligopeptides comprising 2 to 20 amino acids; and (ii) at least one oxidizing agent and / or at least one colorant selected from oxidation colorant precursors, direct colorants and mixtures thereof.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a specific oligopeptide, an oxidizing agent and / or a specific colorant

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one specific oligopeptide, and at least one oxidizing agent and / or at least one colorant. The present invention also relates to a method for lightening and / or coloring keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising applying said composition to said keratin fibers. technical field

[0002] In the field of hair lightening, the tone level is generally used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, with one tone separating each shade from the one immediately preceding or following it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairdressing professionals and are published in the book "Sciences des traitements cheveux" by Charles ZVIAK, 1988, Ed. Masson, pp. 215 and 278.

[0003] The tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

[0004] Lightening thus makes it possible to bring a tone height lighter than the initial natural tone height of the hair.

[0005] The compositions used to lighten hair are generally aqueous and include at least one oxidizing agent, in alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.

[0006] This oxidizing agent's role is to degrade the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the hair fibers. Thus, for relatively slight lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When a greater lightening effect is desired, particularly a lightening of at least 5 shades, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxygenated salts are contained in compositions which, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous composition containing hydrogen peroxide.

[0007] In order to adjust the pH of the compositions to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent inside the fiber, and therefore increases the efficiency of the reaction.

[0008] Regarding the coloring of hair keratin fibers, it is known to dye keratin fibers, such as hair, using direct dyes. The colors resulting from the use of direct dyes are temporary or semi-permanent because the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratin fiber, and their desorption from the surface and / or the core of the fiber, are responsible for their low coloring power and poor resistance to washing or perspiration.

[0009] Another coloring method involves using pigments. Indeed, applying pigment to the surface of keratin fibers generally produces visible colors on dark hair, since the surface pigment masks the fiber's natural color. However, the colors obtained using this method are not entirely satisfactory.

[0010] Furthermore, a chelating agent is generally found in cosmetic products. It allows, in particular, the capture of metal ions that can affect the stability and / or appearance of cosmetic products, but also prevents the precipitation of certain ions, such as calcium, magnesium, etc., to guarantee the quality and preservation of cosmetic products. The chelating agent primarily used is EDTA because it offers undeniable advantages. It is effective, it is a well-tolerated ingredient, and allergic reactions are very rare.

[0011] Nevertheless, in the current context, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0012] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling us to meet these environmental challenges.

[0013] In this context, it is important to develop chelating agents with a better carbon footprint capable of reducing the generation of carbon dioxide throughout the life of the product and / or inexpensive in energy and water and / or using greener solvents and / or with fewer synthesis steps and / or with good atom economy.

[0014] Thus, there is a need to develop an environmentally friendly composition that allows for effective lightening and / or coloring of keratin fibers, without altering the mechanical properties of the hair, while controlling the reaction runaway, particularly in the presence of metals such as copper. Description of the invention

[0015] The present invention relates to a composition comprising:

[0016] (i) at least one oligopeptide comprising 2 to 20 amino acids; and

[0017] (ii) at least one oxidizing agent and / or at least one colorant selected from oxidation colorant precursors, direct colorants and mixtures thereof.

[0018] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good lightening and / or good dyeing performance of keratin fibers, without altering the mechanical properties of the hair, while controlling the reaction runaway, in particular in the presence of metals such as copper.

[0019] The present invention also relates to a method for lightening and / or coloring keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to said keratin fibers.

[0020] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0021] The expression "at least one" means one or more.

[0022] Unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0023] By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the bounds are not included.

[0024] For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" means in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably hair.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. For the purposes of this invention, "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0026] The expressions "lightening" and "bleaching" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably. Oligopeptide (i)

[0027] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises (i) at least one oligopeptide comprising 2 to 20 amino acids.

[0028] For the purposes of this invention, "oligopeptide" means a peptide comprising 2 to 20 amino acids that are chemically linked by peptide bonds.

[0029] For the purposes of this invention, "amino acid" means organic compounds having two functional groups: both a carboxyl group -COOH or carboxylate and an amine group -NH2, the amine group optionally being methylated, i.e. in the form -NR2 or N+R3, where at least one R=CH3.

[0030] Preferably, the amino acids are chosen from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Advantageously, the oligopeptide (i) comprises at least one amino acid selected from glycine, histidine and lysine, preferably at least 2 amino acids selected from glycine, histidine and lysine.

[0032] Advantageously, the oligopeptide (i) comprises from 2 to 5 amino acids, preferably from 2 to 4 amino acids, more preferably from 2 to 3 amino acids, even more preferably from 3 amino acids.

[0033] Advantageously, the oligopeptide (i) comprises at least 3 distinct amino acids.

[0034] Preferably, the oligopeptide (i) is composed of 3 distinct amino acids, preferentially glycine, histidine and lysine.

[0035] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the oligopeptide (i) consists of the following 3 amino acids: glycine, histidine and lysine.

[0036] The oligopeptide (i) can be in the form of a salt, in particular in the form of an alkali or alkaline earth metal salt.

[0037] Advantageously, the oligopeptide (i) does not appear in the form of a complex, in particular a metal complex, such as a transition metal complex like a copper complex, when introduced into the composition according to the invention.

[0038] Advantageously, the oligopeptide (i) has the following formula (I): (I).

[0039] The oligopeptide of formula (I) has the INCI name tripeptide-1.

[0040] Such a tripeptide is also called GHK or glycydyl-histidyl-lysine (Gly-his-lys).

[0041] Preferably, the oligopeptide (i) used in the composition according to the invention is different from copper complexes, such as GHK-Cu.

[0042] Advantageously, the total oligopeptide(s) (i) content ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises (ii) at least one oxidizing agent and / or at least one colorant selected from oxidation colorant precursors, direct colorants and mixtures thereof. Oxidizing agent

[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, "oxidizing agent" means a chemical oxidizing agent.

[0045] Preferably, the oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from peroxygenated salts, hydrogen peroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidizing agent(s) selected from peroxygenated salts.

[0047] More preferably, the peroxygenated salt(s) are chosen from among persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium percarbonates; magnesium peroxide; and their mixtures.

[0048] Even more preferably, the peroxygenated salt(s) are chosen from among the persulfates.

[0049] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, in the sense of the invention, to the anions SO52 (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxodisulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions. Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from among the peroxodisulfates.

[0050] Advantageously, the peroxygenated salt(s) are chosen from among the persulfates, preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Advantageously, the total content of oxidizing agent(s) ranges from 1 to 70% by weight, preferably from 5 to 65% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 60%, even more preferably from 20 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0052] Advantageously, the total persulfate content ranges from 1 to 70% by weight, preferably from 5 to 65% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 60%, even more preferably from 15 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0053] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of ammonium persulfate and potassium persulfate. Dye Oxidation dye precursor

[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, "oxidation dye precursor" means a chemical oxidation dye precursor.

[0055] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dye precursors, preferably chosen from oxidation bases, oxidation couplers, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Preferably, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, their corresponding addition salts, their solvates, their salts and their mixtures.

[0057] Among the para-phenylenediamines that can be mentioned, examples include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,g-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy- , para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.

[0058] Among the aforementioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid are preferred.

[0059] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that can be mentioned, we find for example N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts.

[0060] Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned, we find for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(b-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.

[0061] Among the ortho-aminophenols that can be mentioned, we find for example 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts.

[0062] Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned, we find for example the derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole.

[0063] Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts.

[0064] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that can be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol,3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts.

[0065] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from among the 3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by:

[0066] a) a (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group;

[0067] b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or

[0068] c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts.

[0069] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, where a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0070] Among the pyrazole derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3- dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-terL-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, the 4,5-Diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts. 4,5-Diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.

[0071] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, for example 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole sulfate.

[0072] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[ 1,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one. ,

[0073] Preferably, among the oxidation bases, para-toluenediamine, para-aminophenol, 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole sulfate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0074] Preferably, the oxidation couplers are chosen from among meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, their corresponding addition salts, their solvates, their salts and their mixtures.

[0075] Examples include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-Triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol, 2-[3-amino-4-methoxyphenyl]amino)ethanol, and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.

[0076] Preferably, among the oxidation couplers, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 6-hydroxyindole, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0077] In general, the addition salts of oxidation bases or oxidation couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from among the addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

[0078] Advantageously, when the oxidation dye precursor(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of oxidation dye precursor(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.06 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.07 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0079] Advantageously, when the oxidation base(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of oxidation base(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.06 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.07 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0080] Advantageously, when the oxidation coupler(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total oxidation coupler(s) content ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.06 at 10% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.07 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Direct dye

[0081] The composition according to the invention may include one or more direct colorant(s).

[0082] Direct colorants can be synthetic or natural.

[0083] Synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those classically used in direct coloring, and among which we can mention all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, xanthenic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine and their mixtures.

[0084] Among the benzene nitro direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene. ;

[0085] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0086] Among the direct hydrazono colorants, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.

[0087] Among the aryl nitrate direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-pheny lenediamine.

[0088] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50; tetrabromophenol blue.

[0089] Among the xanthenic dyes, we can mention: Acid Red 92; Acid Red 52.

[0090] Among the quinone direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0091] Among the direct azinic dyes, we can mention: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0092] Among the direct indamine dyes, we can mention: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino- 5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

[0093] Natural direct dyes are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

[0094] Among the useful orthodiphenols according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, Maritimetin, Sulfurtin, Robtein, betanidine, Pericampylinone A., Theaflavin, Proanthocyanidin A2, Proanthocyanidin B2, Proanthocyanidin Cl, Procyanidins DP 4-8, Tannic acid, Purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.

[0095] Advantageously, the total content of direct colorant(s), when present, ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Fatty substances

[0096] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty substance.

[0097] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum (or mineral oil), or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0098] Advantageously, the fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0099] Fatty substances according to the invention are different from fatty acids and their salts.

[0100] Preferably the useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-siliconized.

[0101] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0102] The fats used according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point of 25°C or less at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0103] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0104] More particularly, the liquid fat(s) according to the invention are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Cl6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] It is recalled that alcohols and fatty esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0106] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0107] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0109] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] As regards fluorinated oils, these may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M; or the bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0111] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, one may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0113] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0114] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0116] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0117] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0119] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0120] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0121] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0122] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0123] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0125] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0126] The silicone oils usable in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.106 at 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.105 at 1 m2 / s.

[0127] Preferably, silicone oils are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0128] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils usable according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from among the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.

[0129] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0130] When volatile, silicone oils are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0131] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. This includes, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

[0132] We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0133] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0134] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and exhibiting a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁻⁶ m² / s at 25°C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name "SH 200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

[0135] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.

[0136] These silicone oils are more particularly selected from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0137] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited by way of non-limiting example: - SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the company RHODIA; - oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0138] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.

[0139] Organomodified silicones usable according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group.

[0140] With regard to liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

[0141] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0142] Examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following names:

[0143] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series of RHODIA;

[0144] - the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0145] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0146] - BAYER's PK series silicones such as product PK20;

[0147] - BAYER's PN and PH series silicones such as PN1000 products and PH1000;

[0148] - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0149] Among organomodified silicones, we can mention polyorganosiloxanes comprising: - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups in Cl to C4;

[0150] - alkoxylated groups,

[0151] - hydroxyl groups.

[0152] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s*.

[0153] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0155] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0156] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0157] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0158] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0159] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0160] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0161] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0162] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0164] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, one obtains a recrystallization of the wax, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0165] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0166] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0167] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Mi crowax hw.

[0168] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0169] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in the C8 to C32 range. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0170] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0171] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0172] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; examples include camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by MICRO POWDERS.

[0173] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0174] Preferably, the waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and mixtures thereof.

[0175] Preferably, the waxes are chosen from polyethylene waxes, preferably from polyethylene waxes with a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C, better greater than or equal to 80°C, preferably, ranging from 85 to 150°C, better from 90 to 120°C.

[0176] Among the usable polyethylene waxes, we can mention in particular, that marketed under the name of CIRE POLYETHYLENE AC 1702 by the company HONEYWELL, those marketed under the names PERFORMALENE® 500-L POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 400 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 655 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® SCRUB BEADS, PERFORMALENE® SE / 2 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 725 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 850 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 1000 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMA SW 100 SYNTHETIC WAX by the company NUCERA SOLUTIONS.

[0177] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0178] The ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0179] RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in the C16-C30 position;

[0180] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0181] R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more Cl-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0182] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear group saturated with Cl5.

[0183] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0184] Compounds may also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0185] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol; N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine; N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine; N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine; N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine; N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) cetyl acid amide; and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine should be used.

[0186] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably chosen from mineral oils, in particular the liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0187] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral oil, in particular selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin or petroleum jelly oils.

[0188] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0189] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fat, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, waxes and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0190] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cetearyl alcohol.

[0191] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fat, preferably chosen from liquid fats, solid fats and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from paraffin or petroleum jelly oil, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat and at least one solid fat.

[0193] Preferably, the liquid fat is chosen from mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular paraffin or petroleum jelly oil, and the solid fat is chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular cetearyl alcohol.

[0194] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil or petroleum jelly, and cetearyl alcohol.

[0195] Advantageously, the total content of the fat or fats, when present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0196] Preferably, the total content of the liquid fat(s), when present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0197] Advantageously, the total content of the solid fat(s) when present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Alkaline agent

[0198] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent.

[0199] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) are chosen from organic alkali agents and inorganic alkali agents.

[0200] Advantageously, the organic alkali metal(s) are chosen from among organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and more preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity functional group. Furthermore, the organic amines do not include a fatty, alkyl, or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

[0201] The organic alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1 to C4.

[0202] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, in C1 to C8 bearing one or more hydroxy radicals.

[0203] Alkanolamines selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention. Among the alkanolamines, monoethanolamine is particularly preferred.

[0204] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole may be mentioned.

[0205] The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine function. Examples of such amines usable in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, and n-amidinoalanine. 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)-ethane-l-sulfonic acid.

[0206] Among the inorganic alkali agents that can be used in the process according to the invention, mineral hydroxides can be mentioned.

[0207] Mineral hydroxides can be selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, and ammonium hydroxides. Examples of mineral hydroxides include ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, and zinc hydroxide.

[0208] Among mineral hydroxides, ammonium hydroxide, also called ammonia, is preferred.

[0209] The inorganic alkali agent(s) may also be selected from urea, ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate or ammonium nitrate, (meta)silicates, phosphates, (bi)carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, barium, and mixtures thereof, preferably from (bi)carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in particular magnesium carbonates, more particularly magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and (meta)silicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in particular (meta)silicates of alkali metals, especially sodium (meta)silicate.

[0210] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent, preferably selected from ammonium salts, such as ammonium chloride, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, alkanolamines, compounds with a guanidine function, ammonium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, such as sodium (meta)silicate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, such as magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkali agents selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, in particular alkali metal (meta)silicates, preferably sodium (meta)silicate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, in particular magnesium carbonates, preferably magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkali agents, at least one of which is selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal (meta)silicates and their mixtures, in particular alkali metal (meta)silicates, preferably sodium (meta)silicate.

[0213] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sodium (meta)silicate and magnesium carbonate hydroxide.

[0214] Advantageously, the total content of alkali agent(s) ranges from 1% to 55% by weight, preferably from 3% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, even more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0215] Advantageously, the total content of alkali agent(s) selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal (meta)silicates ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, even more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Surfactant

[0216] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] Anionic surfactant

[0218] Anionic surfactants can be selected from sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can obviously be used.

[0219] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

[0220] It is understood in this description that:

[0221] - anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one function carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ), and may possibly also include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0222] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally include one or more additional sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function; and

[0223] - anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0224] The anionic carboxylate surfactants that may be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0225] They may be selected from the following compounds: fatty acids, acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C3O aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably having from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0226] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and their salts, may also be used.

[0227] Preferably, the anionic carboxylate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0228] - fatty acids;

[0229] - acylglutamates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C2o, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0230] - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C2o, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0231] - acyllactylates, particularly in the Ci2-C2s or even Ci4-C24 forms, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0232] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular Ci2-C2o; - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(Ci2-C2o)ethercarboxylates;

[0233] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0234] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0235] Among the carboxylic surfactants above, special mention can be made of fatty acid type surfactants, particularly C6-C3o.

[0236] Among the fatty acids, we can mention lauric, palmitic, myristic, stearic, oleic, behenic acids.

[0237] The fatty acids are advantageously selected from palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0238] Among the carboxylic surfactants mentioned above, sarcosinate-type surfactants are particularly noteworthy. Among the alkyl(C6-C30)sarcosinates, palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, and cocoylsarcosinates, in acid or sal form, are examples.

[0239] The anionic surfactant(s) of the sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroylsarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof.

[0240] Among carboxylic surfactants, we can also mention polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.

[0241] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).

[0242] They may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0243] the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0244] these compounds being polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0245] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0246] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C2O, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.

[0247] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular Ci2-C20;

[0248] - N-acyltaurates in C6-C24, especially in Ci2-C20>

[0249] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.

[0250] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of the sulfonate type are chosen from among the N-acyltaurates, and in particular the N-acyl N-methyltaurates, the acylisethionates, as well as their salts and mixtures.

[0251] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of the sulfonate type are chosen from among the acylisethionates, as well as their salts and mixtures.

[0252] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0253] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0254] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0255] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:

[0256] - C6-C30 fatty acids, in particular C8-C24;

[0257] - alkyl sulfates in C6-C24, preferably in Ci0-C22, especially in Ci2-C20;

[0258] - alkyl ethersulfates in C6-C24, preferably in Ci0-C22, especially in Ci2-C20; preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0259] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;

[0260] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular Ci2-C20;

[0261] - N-acyltaurates in C6-C24, in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0262] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;

[0263] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates;

[0264] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylate s;

[0265] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)(amido)ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

[0266] - acylglutamates in C6-C24, in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0267] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular Ci2-C20;

[0268] - as well as their salts, in particular their alkali or alkaline earth metal salts or zinc, ammonium, or amino alcohol;

[0269] - and their mixtures.

[0270] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s), when present in the composition according to the invention, are selected from C6-C30 fatty acids, particularly C8-C24, and C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, preferably C10-C22, particularly C12-C24. 20, and their mixtures, said compounds being preferably in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, in particular sodium salt.

[0271] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sodium stearate, sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium cetearyl sulfate, said compound being a mixture of sodium stearyl sulfate and sodium cetyl sulfate.

[0272] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s), when present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0273] Non-ionic surfactant

[0274] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0275] The non-ionic surfactant(s) usable in the invention are described in particular, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.

[0276] By way of examples of nonionic surfactants, these may optionally be selected from among oxyalkyl(C8-C24)phenols, C8-C40 alcohols, C8-C30 fatty acid amides, C8-C30 acid esters and polyethylene glycols, C8-C30 acid esters and sorbitol, fatty acid esters and sucrose, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides esters, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates, and derivatives of A-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0277] In particular, the following compounds may be cited, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0278] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; distinct from the fatty alcohols described previously; oxyalkylated;

[0279] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated;

[0280] - fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0281] - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters,

[0282] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0283] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0284] - A-alkyl(C8-C3o)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C3o)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0285] - amine oxides.

[0286] They are chosen, in particular, from fatty alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30. Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants are in particular C8-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably C8-C24, oxyalkylated, preferably ethoxylated, comprising from 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0287] We can also mention ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0288] Esters (in particular mono-, di-, tri-esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C2-C22, and of sorbitan may be selected from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0289] C8-C30 fatty acid (preferably Ci2-Ci8) polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of fatty acids and sorbitan having in particular 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide may be selected from Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid esters, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of (poly)oxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0290] Non-ionic surfactants can also be chosen from oxygenated vegetable oils.

[0291] Examples of oxyethylenated vegetable oils include, in particular: sesame, castor, soybean, coffee, safflower, borage, sunflower, olive, apricot kernel, argan, camellia, bambara pea, avocado, mango, rice bran, cottonseed, rosehip, kiwi seed, sea buckthorn pulp, blueberry seed, flaxseed, walnut, poppy, orange seed, sweet almond, palm, coconut, vernonia, marjoram, baobab, rapeseed, ximenia, pracaxi, jojoba oil, and shea oil, comprising from 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxides, preferably from 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide, better 10 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, even better 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0292] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants of the oxyethylenated vegetable oil type are selected from oxyethylenated castor oils, more preferably oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils, and in particular oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils with INCI names: PEG-25 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-200 Hydrogenated castor oil, and their mixtures.

[0293] Non-ionic surfactants can also be selected from alkyl(poly)glycoside (or APG) type non-ionic surfactants, also called alkyl(poly)glycoside non-ionic surfactants.

[0294] “Alky(poly)glycoside” means an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside, also called an alkylglycoside in this application, the alkyl group of which comprises between 6 and 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 24 carbon atoms, and which may optionally be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably at C2 to C4.

[0295] The non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) are preferably selected from the following compounds of formula (III) and their mixtures: RiO-^Oj / GX (III) formula (III), wherein:

[0296] - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0297] - R2 represents an alkylene group comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0298] - G represents a saccharidic motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0299] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and

[0300] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15.

[0301] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside type nonionic surfactant(s) are selected, alone or in mixture, from compounds of formula (III) in which:

[0302] - Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0303] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose,

[0304] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and

[0305] - R2 and v are as defined previously.

[0306] The degree of polymerization of the non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s), as represented for example by the index v in formula (III) above, varies on average from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 4. This degree of polymerization varies more particularly from 1 to 2, and even better from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.

[0307] The glycosidic bonds between the saccharidic motifs are in 1,6 or in 1,4; and preferably in 1,4.

[0308] The non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycosides surfactants that can be used in the present invention are preferably alkyl(poly)glucosides, in particular represented by the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN ® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). You can also use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or those sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK, or the products sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB.

[0309] The nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) that may be present in the composition according to the invention are preferably selected from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) are selected from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is coco glucoside.

[0310] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are selected from among oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxide, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide, esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and sorbitan, ethoxylated having 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the (alkyl C6-C24)polyglycosides, and their mixtures.

[0311] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 250 moles, better from 1 to 200, even better from 10 to 150, always better from 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide.

[0312] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises hydrogenated oxyethylenated castor oil, INCI name PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil.

[0313] Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s), when present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0314] Advantageously, the surfactant(s) are selected from oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 250 moles, better from 1 to 200, even better from 10 to 150, always better from 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide, in particular from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, such as oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil of INCI name PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, alkyl sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, in particular sodium stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0315] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of hydrogenated oxyethylenated castor oil of INCI name PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium stearate and sodium cetearyl sulfate.

[0316] Advantageously, the total surfactant content, when present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Thickening polymer

[0317] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one thickening polymer.

[0318] For the purposes of this invention, a thickening polymer is defined as a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol at pH 7, or into an oil selected from petroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate, or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps (centipoise), in particular at least 200 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25 °C and at a shear rate of ls*. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0319] The thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. A mixture of several thickening polymers may also be used. They may be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric thickening polymers and mixtures thereof.

[0320] Thickening polymers can be selected from thickening acrylic polymers and thickening polysaccharides.

[0321] For the purposes of this invention, acrylic polymer means a polymer resulting from a polymerization reaction involving one or more structural monomer(s): h2c=Cf" ^COR.

[0322] with R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,

[0323] and R4 designating a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, an NR5R6 radical or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkoxy radical, said radicals possibly being substituted by one or more OH and / or quaternary ammonium radical;

[0324] R5 and R6 designating independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched, in C1-C30 possibly oxyalkylated, possibly comprising a sulfonic group.

[0325] Preferably R3 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.

[0326] Acrylic thickening polymers that may be used in the present inventions can be chosen from:

[0327] (a) associative (meth)acrylic polymers;

[0328] (b) crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers and crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylate;

[0329] (c) non-ionic homo- and copolymers containing unsaturated monomers ethylenic of ester and / or amide type;

[0330] (d) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and acrylate copolymers of ammonium and acrylamide.

[0331] By "associative thickening polymer", according to the invention, is meant an amphiphilic thickening polymer comprising both hydrophilic and associative motifs hydrophobic, in particular comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic motif.

[0332] (a) The associative (meth)acrylic thickening polymers according to the invention may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.

[0333] Preferably, the non-ionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention are selected from:

[0334] - copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl (meth)acrylates and monomers amphiphiles comprising at least one fatty chain (e.g., oxyethylenated alkyl (C8-C22) acrylates) such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl methacrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208; and

[0335] - copolymers of hydrophilic (meth)acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example alkyl (C8-C22) (meth)acrylates) such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0336] The anionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention can be selected from those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic motif of the unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl(C10-C30) ester type.

[0337] Among the above-mentioned polymers, particular preference is given to the products sold by GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, and even more preferentially to PEMULEN TRI®, the product sold by LUBRIZOL under the trade name CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) and the product sold by SEPC under the name COATEX SX®.

[0338] Among the anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, we can also mention copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.

[0339] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol.

[0340] By way of example, one can cite ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or ACULYN 28® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer oxyalkylened (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® sold by Lubrizol.

[0341] As anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, we can also mention the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethylmetisopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated alcohol copolymer, notably marketed under the name VISCOPHOBE DB 1000 by the company AMERCHOL.

[0342] As anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, we can also mention those comprising at least one acrylic monomer with sulfonic group(s), in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

[0343] The cationic associative thickening polymers according to the present invention can be selected from polyacrylates with amine side groups.

[0344] Polyacrylates with amine side groups, quaternized or not, possess for example hydrophobic groups of the type steareth-20 (stearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide) or alkyl(C10-C30)PEG-20 itaconate.

[0345] Examples of polyacrylates with amine side chains include polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 or STRUCTURE PLUS from NATIONAL STARCH.

[0346] The amphoteric associative thickening polymers according to the invention can be selected from the copolymers of trimethylammonium methacrylamidopropyl chloride / acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate in C10-C30, the alkyl radical preferably being a stearyl radical.

[0347] (b) Among the cross-linked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, mention may be made of products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company GOODRICH or products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA.

[0348] Among the crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and Cl-C6 alkyl acrylate, one can cite the product sold under the name VISCOATEX 538C by COATEX, which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion with 38% active ingredient, or the product sold under the name ACULYN 33 by ROHM & HAAS, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion with 28% active ingredient. One can cite more specifically the crosslinked methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer in aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient, manufactured and sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by NOVEON.

[0349] (c) Among non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers containing Examples of monomers with ethylenic unsaturation of the ester and / or amide type include: products sold under the names CYAN AMER P250 by CYTEC (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by US COSMETICS (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); ACRYLOID B 66 by RHOM & HAAS (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer); BPA 500 by KOBO (polymethyl methacrylate).

[0350] (d) Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers, mention may be made of the product sold under the name MICROSAP PAS 5193 by the company HOECHST.

[0351] Among the ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers, we can mention the product sold under the name BOZEPOL C NEW or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company HOECHST.

[0352] Among the acrylic thickening polymers that can be used in the present invention, preferably one or more acrylic thickening polymers of family a) will be used, more preferably chosen from anionic (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers.

[0353] As previously stated, the thickening polymers according to the invention can be selected from thickening polysaccharides.

[0354] The thickening polysaccharides according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may be non-ionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic.

[0355] The basic units of the polysaccharides of the invention may be mono- or disaccharides. The motifs that may form part of the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose.

[0356] The following polymers, as well as their derivatives, may be cited in particular as thickening polysaccharides that could be used:

[0357] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose)

[0358] - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose)

[0359] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose)

[0360] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose)

[0361] - konjac gum (glucose and mannose polymer),

[0362] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer),

[0363] - cellulose (glucose polymer)

[0364] - starch (polymer of glucose)

[0365] - inulin (polymer of fructose and glucose).

[0366] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include temperature. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be nonionic, cationic, or amphoteric.

[0367] Cellulose and cellulose derivatives can be cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ether esters may be mentioned.

[0368] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, examples include alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.

[0369] Among cationic cellulose ethers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses may be mentioned. The quaternizing agent may be, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example, Celquat L200 from NATIONAL STARCH). Another cationic cellulose ether is hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example, Ucare polymer JR 400 from AMERCHOL).

[0370] Thickening polysaccharides can be associative. Examples include celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof where the alkyl groups are in C8-C22; non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (alkyl in Cl6) sold by the company AQUALON; quaternized (cationic) alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (Cl8 alkyl) products sold by AMERCHOL, CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) products sold by CRODA and SOFTCAT SL 100 product sold by AMERCHOL; non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as AMERCELL HM-1500 product sold by AMERCHOL;non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL. ;

[0371] Examples of associative thickening polysaccharides derived from guar include hydroxypropylguars modified by a fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by an alkyl chain at C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by an alkyl chain at C14) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by an alkyl chain at C20) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0372] Among thickening polysaccharides, non-ionic polysaccharides will preferably be used, in particular chosen from celluloses and their derivatives, preferably from non-ionic cellulose ethers.

[0373] Preferably, the thickening polymers are chosen from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from celluloses and their derivatives, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose and anionic (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers.

[0374] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of hydroxyethylcellulose and Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates crosspolymer.

[0375] Advantageously, the total content of thickening polymer(s), when present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.4 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Additive

[0376] The composition according to the invention may include at least one additive, different from the compounds of the invention previously mentioned.

[0377] Within the framework of the present invention, the additive(s) may be chosen from polymers other than thickening polymers, in particular anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, chelating agents other than oligopeptide as defined above, perfumes, preservatives, carboxylic acids, amino acids. Solvent

[0378] The composition according to the invention may further comprise water.

[0379] According to a first embodiment, when the composition according to the invention includes water, the total water content is preferably in the range of 1% to 90% by weight, more preferably 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably 20% to 60% by weight, better 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0380] According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous.

[0381] By "anhydrous composition", it is understood in the context of the invention that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of water, preferably less than 0.5% of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably, the composition contains only traces, due solely to residual water from the raw materials used.

[0382] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise hydrogen peroxide. The composition is preferably intended to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide at the time of use, just before application to the hair.

[0383] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises hydrogen peroxide, this composition being a ready-to-use composition.

[0384] Advantageously, the total hydrogen peroxide content, when present, ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 4 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0385] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0386] (i) at least one oligopeptide comprising 2 to 20 amino acids as described previously; and

[0387] (ii) at least one oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from among the peroxygenated salts as described above.

[0388] According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably anhydrous.

[0389] According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably devoid of oxidation dye precursor(s).

[0390] According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably free of colorant(s) selected from oxidation colorant precursors, direct colorants and their mixtures. Process

[0391] The present invention also relates to a method for lightening and / or coloring keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising applying the composition as defined above to said keratin fibers.

[0392] The application of the composition as defined above to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, can be carried out on dry or wet hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

[0393] The application of said composition to keratin fibers, such as hair, can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge, a hot water bottle, an applicator, a sponge or the fingers.

[0394] The application of the composition is preferably carried out between 25°C and 40°C.

[0395] Advantageously, the lightening and / or coloring process according to the invention includes a step consisting of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use a composition A and a composition B to obtain a composition C, and then applying said composition C to the keratin fibers.

[0396] Preferably, said process is a process for bleaching keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0397] According to a preferred embodiment, compositions A and B are mixed preferably less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, even more preferably less than 5 minutes before application.

[0398] The mass weight ratio between composition B and composition A is preferably from 0.1 to 10, more preferably from 0.2 to 5, even more preferably from 0.5 to 3, better from 1 to 2.

[0399] Preferably, composition A comprises at least one oligopeptide comprising 2 to 20 amino acids as defined above.

[0400] More preferably, composition A comprises at least one oligopeptide comprising 2 to 20 amino acids as defined above and at least one oxidizing agent, preferably selected from peroxygenated salts and mixtures thereof.

[0401] Preferably, composition A does not comprise hydrogen peroxide.

[0402] Preferably, composition B comprises at least one oxidizing agent as defined previously.

[0403] More preferably, the oxidizing agent in said composition B is hydrogen peroxide.

[0404] The total oligopeptide content in composition A is preferably from 0.25 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0405] The total content of peroxygenated salt(s) in composition A is preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, even more preferably from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0406] The total hydrogen peroxide content in composition B is preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better from 7 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0407] Composition B is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises at least 30% by weight of water, preferably at least 50% by weight of water, more preferably 50 to 90% by weight, even more preferably 60 to 80% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0408] Composition B further comprises preferably at least one fatty substance such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, in particular cetearyl alcohol, mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular paraffin or petrolatum oils and mixtures thereof.

[0409] Advantageously, the total fat content in composition B, when present, ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, even more preferably from 18 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0410] A rinsing step of the keratin fibers can be carried out after the application of the composition according to the invention.

[0411] The term "rinsing step" refers to the application of water to the keratin fibers.

[0412] More preferably, a rinsing step of the keratin fibers is carried out less than four hours after the application of the composition according to the invention, more preferably still less than two hours after the application of the composition according to the invention.

[0413] Preferably, a shampoo is applied to said keratin fibers after the rinsing step.

[0414] The present invention also relates to a process for lightening and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing the composition as defined above with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition from the mixture obtained in step (i). EXAMPLES

[0415] In the following example, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

[0416] Compositions A, B, C and D as described below in Tables 2 have been prepared.

[0417] [Tables] Composition A (comparative if) B (comparative if) C (invention) Mineral oil 2.0 2.0 2.0 Sodium silicate 28.0 28.0 28.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 0.7 0.7 Ultramarines and kaolin 0.7 0.7 0.7 Potassium persulfate 41.6 41.6 41.6 Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.7 0.7 0.7 Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.0 1.0 1.0 Ammonium persulfate 11.6 11.6 11.6 Magnesium carbonate hydroxide 9.0 9.0 9.0 Disodium EDTA - 1.0 - Oligopeptide GHK (1) - - 1.0 Sodium stearate Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0418] (1) Tripeptide-1

[0419] [Tables2] Composition: Tetrasodium etidronate 0.12, Sodium salicylate 0.05, PEG-40 oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil 0.9, Cetearyl alcohol 3.15, Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.45, Hydrogen peroxide 9.0, Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.05, Mineral oil 17.0, Water q.s. 100

[0420] At the time of use, compositions A, B and C were respectively mixed with composition D, according to the weight ratio of 1:1.5 to obtain respectively the clearing compositions E, F and G.

[0421] Compositions E, F and G are summarized in Table 3 below:

[0422] [Tables3] EFG Compositions Mixture of compositions (Weight ratio) A + D (l : 1.5) B + D (l : 1.5) C + D (l : 1.5)

[0423] Protocol:

[0424] Each of the lightening compositions E, F, and G was then applied to strands of light brown hair (level 4) at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of compositions E, F, and G was followed by a processing time of 50 minutes at a temperature of 33°C. Evaluation of the lightening

[0425] The lightening of the hair strands was then evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrocolorimeter CM-3600d colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

[0426] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.

[0427] The higher the value of L*, the better the lightening.

[0428] The results obtained are grouped in Table 4 below:

[0429] [Tables4] L* E 51.52 F 51.18 G 50.35

[0430] Composition G according to the invention makes it possible to obtain strands of hair having a value of L* close to those of strands of hair treated with comparative compositions E and F.

[0431] Thus, the brightening performance is not impacted regardless of the composition used.

[0432] In addition, it was found that the integrity of the hair was similar after application of compositions F and G to the hair, the moduli of elasticity and resistance to breakage of the hair being close with both compositions.

[0433] Evaluation of the runaway reaction with copper

[0434] A copper runaway reaction test (EBR test) was carried out with each of the compositions E, F and G.

[0435] 60g of each of compositions E, F and G were mixed respectively with 0.25 mL of aqueous copper sulfate pentahydrate solution at 12 g / L in a bowl, to obtain mixtures E', F' and G', respectively.

[0436] Then the temperature of each of the mixtures E', F', G' obtained was measured using a probe for 40 minutes.

[0437] The measurements are reported in Table 5.

[0438] [Tables5] Time (minutes) Temperature (°C) E' Temperature (°C) F' Temperature (°C) G' 15 46 25.1 24.6 20 42 27.9 24.6 30 35.2 31.8 25 40 30.7 30.3 28.3

[0439] It is observed that, in the presence of copper, the heating kinetics of composition G according to the invention are more controlled than those of the comparative compositions. Composition G according to the invention, comprising the oligopeptide GHK, makes it possible to obtain effective hair lightening without altering the mechanical properties of the hair, while controlling the reaction runaway in the presence of copper.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: (i) at least one oligopeptide comprising from 2 to 20 amino acids; and (ii) at least one oxidizing agent and / or at least one colorant selected from oxidation colorant precursors, direct colorants and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the oligopeptide (i) comprises at least 1 amino acid selected from glycine, histidine and lysine, preferably at least 2 amino acids selected from glycine, histidine and lysine.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oligopeptide (i) comprises from 2 to 5 amino acids, preferably from 2 to 4 amino acids, more preferably from 2 to 3 amino acids, even more preferably 3 amino acids.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oligopeptide (i) comprises at least 3 distinct amino acids.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oligopeptide (i) has the following formula (I): (D- H [ 'f T "*0 Ô

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total oligopeptide(s) content (i) ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more oxidizing agents selected from peroxygenated salts.

9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the peroxygenated salt(s) are selected from persulfates, preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of oxidizing agent(s) ranges from 1 to 70% by weight, preferably from 5 to 65% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 60%, even more preferably from 20 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one fat, preferably chosen from liquid fats, solid fats and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from paraffin or petrolatum oil, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one alkali metal agent, preferably selected from ammonium salts, such as ammonium chloride, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, alkanolamines, compounds containing a guanidine function, ammonium hydroxide and their mixtures, more preferably among the (meta)silicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium (meta)silicate, the (bi)carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and their mixtures.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more oxidation dye precursors, preferably selected from oxidation bases, oxidation couplers, and mixtures thereof.

14. A method for lightening and / or coloring keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising applying the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims to said keratin fibers.

15. A process for lightening and / or coloring keratin fibers, preferably human, in particular hair, comprising (i) a step of mixing the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 with a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, (ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition from the mixture obtained in step (i).