COSMETIC COMPOSITION THAT RESISTS PILLING
A moisturizing exfoliating cream with high hydroxy acid content, surfactants, and polymer thickeners in an oil-in-water emulsion addresses stability and pilling issues, offering a luxurious, stable, and effective skincare experience.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-26
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION THAT RESISTS PILLING FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] This disclosure relates generally to a pill-resistant cosmetic composition and a process for manufacturing it to provide benefits to a user's skin. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] There are a variety of skin conditions that benefit from leave-on cosmetic compositions that can be applied to the skin for any of a variety of possible benefits. In some cases, formulating skincare cosmetics that include sufficiently high amounts of active ingredients to confer desired benefits is challenging. The formulation of certain active ingredients is challenging because of their impact on formula stability and the sensory experience. Compositions with high concentrations of acids / salts must be either liquid or serum in texture; or, if a thick cream texture is desired (i.e., for luxury skincare), a high concentration of thickener must be used to develop and stabilize viscosity. A high concentration of thickener can lead to pilling and other sensory disadvantages.
[0003] Consequently, there is a need in the art of a cosmetic composition that can deliver large quantities of active ingredients (in particular functional acids and / or electrolytes) while offering a thick, creamy and luxurious texture without pilling on the skin during application, after drying or during combined use (in layers) with other cosmetic products. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0004] This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form, which are described in greater detail below in the detailed description of the invention. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter, nor to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.
[0005] The present case relates to moisturizing exfoliating cream compositions having a high quantity of acids that allow for a thick, creamy, and luxurious texture without pilling on the skin during application, after drying, or during combined (layered) use with other cosmetic products such as a toner, serum, and / or eye cream. For example, the formulation Formulating skincare compositions with high concentrations of exfoliating acids or functional electrolytes presents a significant challenge due to the negative impact these ingredients have on formula stability and product feel. Many emulsifiers and viscosity modifiers known to those skilled in the art are incompatible or ineffective in the presence of high concentrations of acids and electrolytes, or in low-pH environments.
[0006] To address the formulation challenges associated with incorporating large quantities of these active ingredients, a cosmetic dosage form can be chosen in which optimal efficacy of conventional emulsifiers and thickeners is not paramount for the stability of the composition—for example, in toner, serum, or light lotion formats. However, it is well known that consumers of high-end luxury cosmetics desire the sensory experience of a rich, luxurious cream emulsion dosage form, in which nourishing emollients are incorporated to provide additional sensory and cutaneous benefits such as comfort, hydration, and soothing.To compensate for the low effectiveness of viscosity modifiers in the presence of large quantities of active ingredients, a large amount of viscosity modifiers (such as polymer thickeners) must be added to obtain a thick, creamy texture that appeals to the luxury consumer. This approach often leads to sensory drawbacks such as pilling and a sticky finish on the skin. The invention described here overcomes the common compromise between a thick, stable texture and a good, pill-free sensory experience for compositions containing a large amount of skin-exfoliating acids.
[0007] The compositions of moisturizing exfoliating cream are stable, not exhibiting phase separation or significant changes in odor, color, texture or pH over time and at high temperature.
[0008] Moisturizing exfoliating creams typically include:
[0009] - up to about 20% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid;
[0010] - from approximately at least 6% by weight of at least one surfactant;
[0011] - at least 0.2% of a polymer thickener;
[0012] - at least one emollient;
[0013] - at least one water-based solvent,
[0014] - water;
[0015] in which the ratio between (emollient) and (surfactant) is from about 1:1 to about 4:1;
[0016] wherein the composition has a complex viscosity greater than 200 Pa.S, is stable, resistant to pilling, and has a pH of approximately 3.5 to approximately 6.3; and
[0017] in which all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.
[0018] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating creams contain at least one hydroxy acid selected from alpha-, poly-, beta-hydroxy acids, and their combinations.
[0019] In some embodiments, when the moisturizing exfoliating creams contain an alpha-hydroxy acid, it is present at less than approximately 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, kojic acid, malic acid, their ester derivatives, and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the beta-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, betaine salicylate, tropic acid, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the polyhydroxy acid is selected from gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, galactose, and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream is free of beta-hydroxy acid. In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream is free of polyhydroxy acid.
[0020] In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream further comprises at least one additional hydroxy acid selected from alpha-, poly- and beta-hydroxy acids, and their combinations.
[0021] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream comprises at least one surfactant selected from a fatty alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, polysorbate 20, ceteareth-20, PEG-100 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, at least one surfactant is present from approximately 6.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one surfactant is present from approximately 6.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, at least one surfactant is present from approximately 6.1% to approximately 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream comprises at least one polymer thickener selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carbohydrate-based gelling agents, organic thickeners, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the amount of polymer thickeners is up to approximately 0.45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream comprises at least one emollient selected from vegetable butters, vegetable oils, and their combinations. In some embodiments, the at least emollient is selected from butyrospermum parkii butter, theobroma cacao seed butter, Mangifera indica (mango) seed butter, astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) butter, caprylic / capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate / caprate, a C12-15 alkyl benzoate, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, a C15-19 alkane, a C9-12 alkane, squalane, isopropyl myristate, and combinations thereof.
[0024] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream comprises at least one water-based solvent selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one water-based solvent is present from approximately 5% by weight to approximately 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream comprises water. In one embodiment, the water is present from approximately 30 to approximately 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream has a complex viscosity greater than 200 Pa.S.
[0027] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream further comprises at least one texturizer. In some embodiments, the at least one texturizer is selected from silica, cellulose, boron nitride, mica, hordeum vulgare seed flour, aluminum octenylsuccinate starch, and combinations thereof.
[0028] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream is free or essentially free of silicones.
[0029] Another aspect of this disclosure relates to a skin treatment method. The methods include applying the cosmetic composition according to this disclosure to the skin, in particular facial skin.
[0030] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description, by way of example, of the principles of the invention.
[0031] This disclosure describes exemplary embodiments according to general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Indeed, the invention as described in the patent application is broader than, and not limited by, the exemplary embodiments presented herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0032] As used herein, the term "sublimation" of the skin refers to effects on the skin resulting from the use of the inventive moisturizing exfoliating cream, which may include one or more elements such as improved or reduced pore appearance, texture Improved visual smoothness of the skin, improved skin radiance, and reduced wrinkles and fine lines.
[0033] The expression "silicone-free" as used herein means containing less than 5%, such as less than 3%, such as less than 1% by weight, relative to the total active weight of the composition, of silicones, such as silicone polymers, for example selected from dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and other silicone oils, and silicone elastomers.
[0034] "Pilling" as used herein occurs when a cosmetic formula clumps on the skin in response to friction (i.e., rubbing), causing the formation of small balls, strings, flakes, or lumps on the skin. Pilling can occur during product application or after the product has dried. Pilling can be exacerbated when multiple cosmetic products are layered one on top of the other.
[0035] The term “polymer thickener” as used here means that the thickener can dissolve or swell in the aqueous phase, leading to an increase in the viscosity of the composition and / or to a stabilization of an emulsion system.
[0036] The term “texturizing” or “filler” as used here means that the raw material does not dissolve but modifies the texture of the composition or the finish on the skin.
[0037] As described and exemplified in various embodiments herein, the inventors have created a pill-resistant, moisturizing exfoliating cream in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
[0038] - up to about 20% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid;
[0039] - from approximately at least 6% by weight of at least one surfactant;
[0040] - at least 0.2% of a polymer thickener;
[0041] - at least one emollient;
[0042] - at least one water-based solvent,
[0043] - water;
[0044] in which the ratio between (emollient) and (surfactant) is from about 1:1 to about 4:1;
[0045] wherein the composition has a complex viscosity greater than 200 Pa.S, is stable, resistant to pilling, and has a pH of approximately 3.5 to approximately 6.3; and
[0046] in which all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition. Hydroxyacid
[0047] In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may have a pH of approximately 3.5 to approximately 6.3. The moisturizing exfoliating cream is thick, stable and resistant to pilling. The emulsion contains at least one hydroxy acid selected from alpha-, poly-, beta-hydroxy acids, and their combinations.
[0048] Alpha-hydroxy acid
[0049] According to the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may comprise at least one alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0050] Suitable alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, their ester derivatives, and combinations thereof. Examples of ester derivatives include ester compounds of glycolic acid and lactic acid, such as methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, and butyl lactate, and similarly, ester compounds of glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, and citric acid. Glycolic acid is a particularly suitable alpha-hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, lactic acid or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid is provided in the chemical scrub composition to provide enhanced skin exfoliation. Furthermore, lactic acid also stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the skin, thereby improving the skin's barrier function and hydration.
[0051] In some embodiments, the alpha-hydroxy acid, if present, represents less than about 8% by weight of the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, citric glycolic acid, kojic acid, malic acid, their ester derivatives, and combinations thereof.
[0052] The moisturizing exfoliating cream includes an alpha-hydroxy acid concentration in a range of at least approximately 3.0%, or from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, or from approximately 3.0% to approximately 8%, or from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7.8%, or is approximately 6%, or is less than 8%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values, by weight, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. According to some embodiments, the amount of alpha-hydroxy acid present does not exceed approximately 8%.
[0053] Thus, any alpha-hydroxy acid or a combination thereof is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, from about 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, 7.0, 7.5 to about 8.0% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0054] Beta-hydroxy acid
[0055] According to the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may comprise at least one beta-hydroxy acid. In some particular embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may include a beta-hydroxy acid comprising salicylic acid.
[0056] The term "beta-hydroxy acid" is understood, according to the present invention, to mean a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxyl functional group separated by two carbon atoms. A beta-hydroxy acid may be present in the moisturizing exfoliating cream in the form of the free acid and / or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal, in particular), depending on the final pH imposed on the moisturizing exfoliating cream.
[0057] Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and a willow extract), capryloylsalicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, tropic carnitine acid and trethocanic acid, and their combinations.
[0058] In various embodiments, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid, betaine salicylate, tropic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] And in certain particular embodiments, the beta-hydroxy acid in the moisturizing scrub excludes at least one of the following: salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract), capryloylsalicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, tropical carnitine acid, and trethocanic acid.
[0060] The moisturizing exfoliating cream may include a concentration of beta-hydroxy acid in the range of approximately 0.1% to and not more than approximately 2% of beta-hydroxy acid, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes up to and not more than approximately 2% or approximately 1.9% of beta-hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes up to and not more than approximately 1% of beta-hydroxy acid. According to some embodiments, the amount of beta-hydroxy acid present is not more than approximately 0.40% to approximately 0.50%.In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may include from about 0.1% to about 1% of beta-hydroxy acid, or from about 0.2% to about 2.0%, or from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.2% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.3% to about 1.0%, or from about 0.35% to about 0.75%, or from about 0.4% to about 0.5%, or is about 0.45%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0061] Thus, at least one beta-hydroxy acid, when present, is present in the skin care composition of approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 at approximately 2.0 percent, by weight, including increments and all intermediate ranges and subranges.
[0062] Polyhydroxy acid
[0063] According to the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may comprise at least one polyhydroxy acid.
[0064] Suitable polyhydroxy acids include gluconolactone and its derivatives, and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the polyhydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, galactose, and combinations thereof.
[0065] The moisturizing exfoliating cream may contain a polyhydroxy acid concentration in the range of approximately 3.0% to approximately 15%, or approximately 3.5% to approximately 14%, or approximately 4.0% to approximately 13%, or approximately 4.0% to approximately 10%, or approximately 4.0% to approximately 9.0%, or approximately 4.0%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values by weight relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. According to some embodiments, the amount of polyhydroxy acid present does not exceed approximately 10%.
[0066] Thus, any polyhydroxy acid or a combination thereof, when present, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, from about 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 to about 15% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0067] In one embodiment, the moisturizing exfoliating cream is free of beta-hydroxy acid.
[0068] In one embodiment, the moisturizing exfoliating cream is free of polyhydroxy acid.
[0069] In various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream further comprises at least one additional hydroxy acid selected from the group consisting of alpha-, poly- and beta-hydroxy acids, and their combinations. Surfactants
[0070] According to the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes at least one surfactant.
[0071] According to the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes at least one surfactant comprising one or a combination of surfactants, for example selected from the group consisting of a fatty alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, polysorbate 20, ceteareth-20, PEG-100 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof.
[0072] In some embodiments, at least one surfactant is present at a concentration of at least approximately 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. In some embodiments, at least one surfactant is present at a concentration of at least approximately 6.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one surfactant is present from approximately 6.5% to approximately 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] According to the various embodiments, the amount of surfactant present in the composition may be from approximately 6% to approximately 15%, alternatively from approximately 6.5% to approximately 14%, alternatively from approximately 7% to approximately 15%, alternatively from approximately 7.5% to approximately 14%, alternatively from approximately 8% to approximately 13%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values by weight relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0074] In some embodiments, the selected surfactants are sulfate-free. In some particular embodiments, the surfactant mixture comprises two or more sulfate-free surfactants. The term "sulfate-free" as used here means that no sulfate has been added as a component. In some embodiments, a composition is sulfate-free. Experts in the field will appreciate that sulfate may be present in a composition via its presence in one or more of the formulation components; thus, in some embodiments, a composition may be "essentially sulfate-free" in which sulfate is present at a concentration not exceeding 5% by weight, and in some cases is present at not more than 3% by weight, and in some cases is present at not more than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the cleaning composition.Thus, the term "sulfate-free" means that the surfactant does not contain sulfate.
[0075] According to the various embodiments, each of the surfactants in the surfactant mixture is present in the composition in an amount of approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, or approximately 1% to approximately 4%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values by weight relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. In some embodiments, a surfactant mixture is present in the composition in an amount of approximately 5% to approximately 8%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0076] Thus, each of the surfactants, alone or in combination, is present in an amount by weight, based on the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, of approximately 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 at approximately 15% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Polymer thickener
[0077] According to the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes at least one polymer thickener selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carbohydrate-based gelling agents, organic thickeners and their combination.
[0078] In some embodiments, the total amount of at least one polymer thickener is up to about 0.45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the total amount of polymer thickeners is up to about 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In additional embodiments, the total amount of polymer thickeners is up to about 0.35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] The total amount of at least one polymer thickener in the composition will vary, but is typically from about 0.20 to about 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In additional embodiments, the composition includes about 0.25 to about 0.38%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange, of these by weight, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. A person skilled in the ordinary art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0080] Thus, each of the polymer thickeners, alone or in combination, is present, in an amount by weight, relative to the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, of about 0.20, 0.21, 0.22, 0.23, 0.24, 0.25, 0.26, 0.27, 0.28, 0.29, 0.3, 0.31, 0.32, 0.33, 0.34, 0.35, 0.36, 0.37, 0.38, 0.39, 0.40, 0.41, 0.42, 0.43, 0.44, or up to about 0.45% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Oils
[0081] According to the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes one or more oils.
[0082] In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes at least one emollient selected from vegetable butters, vegetable oils, and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of emollients may include butyrospermum parkii butter, theobroma cacao seed butter, Mangifera indica (mango) seed butter, astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) butter, and combinations thereof.
[0083] In the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes at least one emollient selected from polar emollients and linear liquid alkanes. In certain particular embodiments, the composition includes one or a combination of coco-caprylate / caprate or C15-19 alkane.
[0084] At least one emollient is present in a range of approximately 0.5% to approximately 40%, or approximately 1% to approximately 39%, or approximately 2% to approximately 38%, or approximately 3% to approximately 37%, 4% to approximately 36.5%, 4% to approximately 36%, 4% to approximately 35%, 4% at approximately 35.5%, 4% at approximately 34%, 5% at approximately 35%, 5% at approximately 34% 5% to approximately 33%, 5% to approximately 32%, 5% to approximately 31%, 5% to approximately 30% 6% at approximately 37%, 7% at approximately 35%, 8% at approximately 37%, 9% at approximately 36% 9% to approximately 35%, 10% to approximately 35%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0085] Other suitable polar emollients may be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, coco caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl adipate, and combinations thereof.
[0086] Other suitable linear liquid alkanes (in Cl 1 to C20) may be chosen from the group consisting of isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, dodecane, and their combinations.
[0087] In certain particular embodiments, the chemical gumming component includes coco-caprylate / caprate, a C15-19 alkane, dodecane, and their combinations.
[0088] In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes butyrospermum parkii butter, theobroma cacao seed butter, Mangifera indica (mango) seed butter, astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) butter, caprylic / capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate / caprate, a C12-15 alkyl benzoate, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, a C15-19 alkane, a C9-12 alkane, squalane, isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof. In certain particular embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes butyrospermum parkii butter, theobroma cacao seed butter, carnauba wax, theobroma cacao grandiflorum seed butter, caprylic / capric triglycerides, coco-caprylate / caprate, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, a C15-19 alkane, dimethicone, and combinations thereof.
[0089] Thus, any one or combination of emollient is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, of approximately 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39 at approximately 40% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0090] In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may further include at least one oil selected from the group consisting of helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, apricot oil, dicaprylyl capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and combinations thereof.
[0091] More generally, in the various embodiments, the composition may include an additional oil, which, when present, is generally immiscible with water, and may be selected from hydrocarbons, silicones, fatty alcohols, glycols, and vegetable oils. The oil may include a polar or nonpolar oil or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the oil may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils derived from plants or of vegetable origin, mineral oil, ester oils, fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and combinations thereof. In certain specific embodiments, an oil may be chosen from Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), squalane, hemisqualane, isononyl isonanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate 2-Octyldodecyl and 2-Diethylhexyl succinate, cocoglyceride, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicapryl maleate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, octyl stearate, isostearyl linoleate, lanolin oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, avocado oil, aloe extracts, jojoba oil, castor oil,a fatty acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, a fatty alcohol, cetyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, diisopropyl adipate, hydroxybenzoate esters, benzoic acid esters of C9-C15 alcohols, alkanes, mineral oil, a silicone, dimethyl polysiloxane, an ether, polyoxypropylene butyl ether, polyoxypropylene cetyl ether, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, arylalkyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, and all combinations thereof.
[0092] According to the various embodiments, the additional oil, when present, in the moisturizing exfoliating cream is present in amounts ranging from approximately 1% to approximately 20%. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. The moisturizing exfoliating cream may include more than one oil, such as a mixture of oils in which one or the mixture of oils is present in an amount which, alone or in combination, is present from approximately 1% to approximately 20% by weight relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, and in which the total amount of additional oil is present up to approximately 20% of the moisturizing exfoliating cream.
[0093] According to certain embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may comprise one or more vegetable butters, at least one butter being chosen from the group consisting of Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuaçu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, and combinations thereof.
[0094] In some embodiments, at least one butter has a melting point in the range of about 28 to about 55 degrees Celsius. Solvent
[0095] According to the various embodiments, water is present in the moisturizing exfoliating cream in a range from approximately 40% to approximately 80%, or from approximately 45% to approximately 75%, or from approximately 48% to approximately 70%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0096] Thus, water is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, from about 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64 to about 65 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0097] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevard-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, water from the Fumades, the water from Tercis-les-Bains, or Avène water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, that is to say, a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium etc., restoring the characteristics of thermal water.
[0098] The pH of the moisturizing exfoliating cream is not limited but is generally not less than 3, and more particularly in a range of about 3 to about 6.3, or about 3.5 to about 6, or about 3.8. The pH can be corrected to the desired value by adding a base (organic or inorganic) to the moisturizing exfoliating cream, for example ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by adding an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.
[0099] In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream includes one or more water-based solvents selected from the group consisting of glycols, for example, glycerin and pentylene glycol, alcohols for solubilizing an acid, for example, monoalcohols such as CrC8 monohydric alcohols like ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the water-based solvents include glycerin and pentylene glycol. In some embodiments, the glycerin content ranges from approximately 5% to approximately 10%.
[0100] According to the various embodiments, the amount of water-based solvent present in the moisturizing exfoliating cream is in the range of approximately 5% to approximately 10%, or approximately 2% to approximately 9%, or approximately 3% to approximately 8%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these values, by weight relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0101] Thus, any of the water-based solvents or a combination thereof may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, from about 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8.5, 9.5 to about 10% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Emollient-to-surfactant ratio
[0102] The weight ratio between the emollient and the surfactant will vary, but it will typically be from 1:1 to about 4:1. In various embodiments, the weight ratio between the emollient and the surfactant is approximately 1.1:1 to approximately 4:1, approximately 1.2:1 to approximately 4:1, approximately 1.3:1 to approximately 4:1, approximately 1.4:1 to approximately 4:1, approximately 1.5:1 to approximately 4:1, approximately 2:1 to approximately 4:1, approximately 2.5:1 to approximately 4:1, approximately 3:1 to approximately 4:1, approximately 1:1 to approximately 3.9:1, approximately 1:1 to approximately 3.8:1, approximately 1:1 to approximately 3.7:1, approximately 1:1 to approximately 3.6:1, and approximately 1:1 to approximately 3.5:1, from approximately 1:1 to approximately 3.0:1, including intermediate increments and ratios.
[0103] This specific range of ratios has proven critical to obtaining the desired properties of the final composition. Texturizer
[0104] According to the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may further include at least one texturizer.
[0105] In some embodiments, at least one texturizer is chosen from the group consisting of silica, cellulose, boron nitride, mica, hordeum vulgare seed flour, aluminum octenylsuccinate starch, and their combination.
[0106] In some embodiments, at least one texturizer is present from about 0% by weight to about 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, at least one texturizer is present from about 0.2% by weight to about 1.8% by weight, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0107] Thus, each of the texturizers, alone or in combination, is present in an amount by weight, relative to the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, of about 0, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, or about 2 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. OTHER INGREDIENTS
[0108] In accordance with the various embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream may further include additional ingredients, generally including, but not limited to, chelating agents, pH adjusters, humectants, antioxidants, plant extracts, vegetable oils and butters, active components, essential oils, vitamins, antimicrobials and preservatives, perfumes, pearlescent agents, odor absorbers, coloring materials, fillers such as clay, talc, powders, including spherical / silica powders and mineral powders, penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, dispersants, film-forming agents, ceramides, opacifiers, and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of some of these optional additional ingredients are provided below.
[0109] Chelating agent
[0110] In certain embodiments, one or more other components, such as chelating agents, may be present in the moisturizing exfoliating cream, in quantities ranging from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2% by weight, from approximately 0.02% to approximately 1.5% by weight, from approximately 0.02% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.02% to approximately 0.5%, and from approximately 0.025% to approximately 0.15%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range of these weight values, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream. In some embodiments, the chelating agents are selected from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium rethylenediamine dissucinate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, pentasodium rethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate, sodium stannate, and combinations thereof.
[0111] Thus, a chelating agent or a combination of chelating agents may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight, each or the combination being present from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 up to about 2% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0112] Active ingredients and other optional ingredients
[0113] In certain embodiments, there may be one or more active ingredients present in the moisturizing exfoliating cream, the additive being chosen from, for example, humectants, such as acetamide MEA, glycols, such as glycerin and propylene glycol, alcohol, antimicrobial components, salicylic acid, alpha acid, antioxidants, including, but not limited to, phenolic compounds, such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, betacyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones and phenolic terpenes, resveratrol, curcumin, pinoresol, ferulic acid, hydroxyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid,Baicalin (Scutellaria Baicalensis root extract), pine bark extract (Pinus Pinaster bark / bud extract), ellagic acid, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glycyrrhizic acid, and vitamins and vitamin derivatives, such as tocopherol and ascorbic acid, and their combinations.
[0114] In some embodiments, there may be one or more other additives present in the moisturizing exfoliating cream, the other components being chosen from the group consisting of fillers such as clays, talc, powders, including spherical / silica powders and mineral powders, penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, dispersants, film-forming agents, ceramides, opacifiers, and combinations thereof.
[0115] In certain embodiments, there may be one or more other components present in the moisturizing scrub cream, according to disclosure, the other components being selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid, methyl dihydro jasmonate, acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valyglycine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxycinnamate, n-hydroxysuccinimide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, chrysin, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, yeast extract, citric acid, and combinations thereof.
[0116] In some embodiments, the additives may include one or a combination of additives selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, trisodium rethylenediamine disuccinate, tocopherol, hydrogen peroxide, and combinations thereof.
[0117] In some embodiments, the additives may include an antimicrobial agent or a combination of antimicrobial agents and their salts, for example, selected from chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, benzalconium chloride, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, piroctone olamine, hexyl glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, octylglycerin, benzylglycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and pentylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
[0118] In certain particular embodiments, one or more additives in any of the components are chosen from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, tocopherol, hydrogen peroxide, chlorophenesin, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glycyrrhizic acid, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, tocopherol, sodium hyaluronate, propanediol, hydrogen peroxide, and combinations thereof.
[0119] In some embodiments, the moisturizing exfoliating cream is essentially free from, or free from, or devoid of one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of silicones, including silicone oils, hydrogen peroxide and its analogues, sulfates, and combinations thereof.
[0120] Although the optional components mentioned above are given by way of examples, it will be appreciated if other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art can be used.
[0121] According to the various embodiments, the number of additives present in the moisturizing exfoliating cream can range from about 0 to about 50%, from about 0.5 to about 30%, from about 1.5 to about 20%, and from about 5 to about 15%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values in weight, compared to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream or the moisturizing exfoliating cream.
[0122] In certain embodiments, one or more additives, alone or in combination, may be present in one or both of the moisturizing exfoliating cream and the moisturizing exfoliating cream from about 0.05% to about 50% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.25% to about 1.5%, and from about 0.5% to about 1.25%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these weight values, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream or the moisturizing exfoliating cream.
[0123] In certain embodiments, one or more other additives, such as preservatives, vitamins, preservatives and the like, alone or in combination, may be present in one or both of the moisturizing exfoliating cream and the moisturizing exfoliating cream from about 0.05% to about 50% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 25% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, and from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values by weight, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream or the moisturizing exfoliating cream.
[0124] Thus, an additive or a combination of additives may be present in the moisturizing exfoliating cream, by weight, relative to the weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, each additive or combination being present in approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 at approximately 50% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.
[0125] This disclosure also relates to processes of using the compositions described herein. For example, the compositions may be used in a process that includes applying the cosmetic compositions to human skin. In some cases, the composition is applied to the face. EXAMPLES
[0126] Example 1: Inventive (INV) and Comparative (COMP) Examples
[0127] [Tables] IN VI IN V2 IN V3 IN V4 IN V5 IN V6 IN V7 CO M PI CO M P2 CO M P3 CO M P4 CO M P5 INCI name Concentration of the ingredient Total water + solvent in aqueous phase 58, 46 58, 31 57, 25 57, 31 59, 46 71, 79 44, 97 32, 31 59, 81 62, 11 73, 95 58, 99 WATER 51, 46 51, 31 50, 25 50, 31 52, 46 64, 79 39, 59 25, 31 52, 81 55, 11 66, 95 51, 93 GLYCERIN 7 7 7 7 7 7.0 0 5.3 8 7 7 7 7 7 7.0 5 Total hydroxy acids 10.45 10.45 10, 45 10, 45 10, 45 10, 45 8.0 4 10, 45 10, 45 10, 45 10, 45 10, 57 SALICYL IC ACID (SALICYLI C ACID) 0.4 5 0.4 5 0.4 5 0.4 5 0.4 5 0.4 5 0.3 5 0.4 5 0.4 5 0.4 5 0.4 5 0.4 5 GLUCONO-LACT ONE 4 4 4 4 4 4.0 0 3.0 8 4 4 4 4 4.0 4 GLYCOLIC ACID 6 6 6 6 6 6.0 0 4.6 2 6 6 6 6 6.0 7 Total polymer thickener 0.3 5 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.3 5 0.4 2 0.2 7 0 0 4.2 0.3 0.4 8 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.1 2 0.0 8 0 0 0.2 0.1 0.1 4 CETYL HYDROX ETHYLCELLULOSE 0.2 5 0 0 0 0.2 5 0.3 0 0.1 9 0 0 0 0.2 0,3 5 COPOLYMÈRE D 'ACRYLATE D'H YDROXYÉTHYL E / ACRYLOYLDIM ÉTHYL TAURAT E DE SODIUM (H YDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SOD 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 , IUM ACRYLOYL DIMETHYL TAU RATE COPOLYMER) Total Charge 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 SILICA 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYL-SUCCINATE 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 Total Surfactants + Emollients 27.50 27.5 27.5 27.5 27.5 15.1 44.2 55 27.5 17.5 12.00 26.6 Total Surfactants H, 50 H, 50 H, 50 H, 50 H, 50 6.3 0 8.8 5 23, 00 H, 50 6.5 0 5.0 0 H, 14 PEG-100 STEARATE 2 2 2 2 2 1.1 0 1.5 4 4 2 1 0.5 1.9 4 POLYSORBATE 20 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 5 0.3 8 1 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.4 8 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2.8 4 2.8 4 2.8 4 2.8 4 2.8 4 1.5 6 2.1 8 5.6 8 2.8 4 0.7 1 0.7 1 2.7 5 CETEARETH-20 ( CETEARETH-20) 1.1 6 1.1 6 1.1 6 1.1 6 1.1 6 0.6 4 0.8 9 2.3 2 1.1 6 0.2 9 0.2 9 1.1 3 G STEARATE LYCERYL (GLY CERYL STEARA TE) 5 5 5 5 5 2.7 5 3.8 5 10 5 3 2 4.8 4 LAURETH-4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ACIDE STÉARIQ UE (STEARIC AC ID) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 Total emollients 16 16 16 16 16 8,8 35 ,4 32 16 11 7 15, 50 CIRE DE CARNA UBA (CARNAUB A WAX) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 BEURRE DE GRA INES DE THEOB ROMA COCOA ( THEOBROMA C ACAO SEED BUTTER) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 0 0 BEURRE DE GRA INES DE THEOB ROMA GRANDIE LORUM (THEOB ROMA GRANDIE LORUM SEED BUTTER) 4 4 4 0 8 2.2 0 3.0 8 8 4 0 3 3,8 8 BEURRE DE BUT YROSPERMUM P ARKII (KARITÉ) (BUTYROSPERM UM PARKII (SHE A) BUTTER) 4 4 4 0 8 2,2 0 3,0 8 8 4 2 1 3,8 8 TRIGLYCÉRIDE CAPRYLIQUE / CAPRIQUE (CAPRYLIC / CAP RIC TRIGLYCER IDE) 0 0 0 0 0 0 23, 08 0 0 0 0 0 COCO-CAPRYLA TE / CAPRATE 1 2 1 9 0 0.5 5 0.7 7 6 3 1 1 0.9 7 HUILE DE GRAI NES D'HELIANT HUS ANNUUS (H ELIANTHUS AN NUUS SEED OIL) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0,0 0 0 0 5 0 0 ALKANE EN C15-19(C15-19 ALKA NE) 5 5 5 5 0 2,7 5 3,8 5 10 5 0 1 4.8 4 DIMÉTHICONE ( DIMETHICONE) 2 1 2 2 0 1.1 0 1.5 4 0 0 0 1 1.9 4 Other ingredients 3.2 4 3.5 4 3.5 4 3.5 4 2.2 4 2.2 4 2.4 9 2.2 4 2.2 4 3.7 4 3.3 0 3.3 2
[0128] Example 2: Performance evaluation of compositions
[0129] The viscosity was determined using an oscillation amplitude rheology experiment, measuring the rheological properties under shear strain ranging from 0.001% to 100% at 10 rad / s and 25 °C. The viscosity value presented was the complex viscosity at 0.01% strain, which was in the linear viscoelastic region for all samples. To "meet" the viscosity performance criteria (i.e., for the composition to be considered a thick cream), the viscosity of the composition must exceed 200 Pa·s.
[0130] The results of the Inventive and Comparative Examples are presented respectively in Table 2 and Table 3 below.
[0131] [Tables2] Composition Anti-pilling performance Stability performance Viscosity (Pa.s) IN VI Success Success 1778 INV2 Success Success 2139 INV3 Success Success 2915 INV4 Success Success 1860 INV5 Success Success 2566 INV6 Success Success 292 INV7 Success Success 286
[0132] [Tables3] Composition Anti-pilling performance Stability performance Viscosity (Pa.s) Results COMP1 Not tested Failure Not tested The composition was above the permissible range for the total emollients + surfactants; therefore, it did not meet the stability criteria (instantaneous phase separation at 25°C). COMP2 Success Failure 977 The composition was below the permissible range for the polymer thickener; therefore, it did not meet the stability criteria (phase separation at 45°C). COMP3 Failure Success 478 The composition was well above the permissible range for the polymer thickener; therefore, it did not meet the pilling criteria. COMP4 Failure Success 143 The composition was below the permissible range for the total emollients + surfactants; Therefore, it did not meet the viscosity and pilling criteria.COMP5 Failure Success 1280 The composition was above the permissible range for the polymer thickener; therefore, it did not meet the pilling criteria.
[0133] To evaluate "anti-pilling performance," a fixed volume of formula was applied in a uniform layer to a fixed area of clean, dry skin. After allowing the formula to be absorbed into the skin, the skin was then subjected to a rubbing action in which clean fingers repeatedly rubbed the skin with a constant pressure. If aggregates of the formula ("vermicelli" or "pills") were produced during this rubbing action, the composition was indicated as not meeting the anti-pilling performance criteria. If the fingers were able to repeatedly rub over the film left on the skin by the formula without producing vermicelli / pilling, the composition has been indicated as meeting the anti-pilling performance criteria.
[0134] According to the pilling evaluation in Tables 2 and 3, the Inventive and Comparative Examples exhibited different behavior after being subjected to simple application on the skin and a rubbing gesture.
[0135] The Comparative Examples contained hydroxy acids which generated a high electrolyte content and therefore required a large amount of polymer thickeners to give a thick and rich texture. After being evaluated for pilling, some Comparative Examples exhibited a low level of pilling after application to the skin, but a high level of pilling after the rubbing action (i.e. Comp 1, Comp2, Comp3, Comp5).
[0136] On the contrary, the Inventive Examples demonstrated minimal pilling in both cases, with and without rubbing. They surprisingly exhibited high resistance to pilling by employing a specific thickening mechanism based on a high surfactant / co-surfactant load (8%). This system minimized the amount of polymer thickeners required. It was remarkable that the total amount of polymer thickeners needed to be less than 3% by weight to exhibit less pilling while maintaining a very thick, creamy, and luxurious texture. These results demonstrated that the lower total amount of polymer thickener was necessary to achieve both the thick, creamy, and luxurious texture and the anti-pilling effect. Example 3#: Stability of inventive compositions
[0137] The inventive compositions were subjected to various temperatures for two months. They were considered stable because they showed no phase separation over time and exposure to high temperatures. The results are reported below in Table 4.
[0138] [Tables4 Example Inventive 2 Day 1 at room temperature 2 months at 4C 2 months at 25C 2 months at 45C Observation The formula did not show phase separation or creaming The formula did not show phase separation or creaming The formula did not show phase separation or creaming The formula did not show phase separation or creaming The size of the oil droplets remained stable. The size of the oil droplets remained stable. The size of the oil droplets remained stable. The size of the oil droplets remained stable.
[0139] The articles "a" and "an" as used here mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. The articles "the," "a," or "them" preceding singular or plural nouns or noun phrases denote a specified particular feature or features and may have a singular or plural connotation depending on the context in which it is used. The adjectives "any" and "all" mean one, some, or all indiscriminately, regardless of quantity.
[0140] “At least one”, as used herein, means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0141] The transitional terms “comprising,” “consisting essentially of,” and “consisting of,” when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended forms, define the scope of the claims with respect to any additional elements or steps not listed, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional, unlisted element, process, step, or material. The term “consisting of” excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claims and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material(s).The expression "essentially consisting of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed invention. All the processes and materials described herein that incorporate the present invention may, in alternative embodiments, be defined more specifically by any of the transitional terms "comprising," "essentially consisting of," and "consisting of."
[0142] Apart from operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within 10% of the number indicated (for example, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).
Claims
Demands
1. Composition of moisturizing exfoliating cream comprising: - up to about 20% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid; - from about at least 6% by weight of at least one surfactant; - at least 0.2% of a polymer thickener; - at least one emollient; - at least one water-based solvent; - water; wherein the ratio of (emollient) to (surfactant) is from about 1:1 to about 4:1; wherein the composition has a complex viscosity greater than 200 Pa.S, is stable, resistant to pilling and has a pH from about 3.5 to about 6.3; and wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one hydroxy acid is selected from alpha-, poly-, beta-hydroxy acids, and their combinations.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, if present, is present in less than about 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, citric glycolic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid, kojic acid, malic acid, their ester derivatives, and combinations thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the beta-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, betaine salicylate, tropic acid, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one surfactant is selected from fatty alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, polysorbate 20, ceteareth-20, PEG-100 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof.
7. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of polymer thickeners is up to about 0.45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to claim 1, wherein water is present from about 30% to about 80% relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the complex viscosity is greater than 200 Pa.S.
10. A skin treatment method comprising applying the cosmetic composition of claim 1 to the skin.