STABLE, REFRESHING, NON-GREASY COMPOSITION WITH A HIGH WATER CONTENT

Abstract

STABLE REFRESHING NON-GREASY COMPOSITION WITH A LARGE QUANTITY OF WATER The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a1) at least one first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value of 4 or less; (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value greater than 4; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides; (d) at least one oil; and (e) water, wherein the amount of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition does not comprise silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.The composition according to the present invention is stable despite containing a large amount of water, and can provide a refreshing sensation such as a water spray sensation, as well as a reduced or non-greasy feel. Figure for the abstract: none.

Description

Title of the invention: STABLE, REFRESHING, NON-GREASY COMPOSITION WITH A LARGE WATER CONTENT Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, which includes a large amount of water but is stable, and can provide a comfortable texture. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Giving the skin a comfortable texture is one of the key features of cosmetic products, especially skin care cosmetic products.

[0003] In particular, a refreshing sensation (caused, for example, by a transformation of texture which corresponds to the change in physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the structure of the composition which can allow the liquid to flow out of the composition) such as a sensation of being sprayed with water, during application, as well as a non-greasy sensation after application, are always necessary for consumer satisfaction during use.

[0004] It should be noted that a composition that is unstable and easily causes its structure to collapse often provides a comfortable texture. This means that it is difficult to offer both a comfortable feel during use and good stability at the same time.

[0005] To date, several technologies concerning O / W type compositions that provide improved texture and stability have been reported. For example, WO2024 / 106520 discloses a stable composition that can provide a texture transformation.

[0006] However, sufficient research has not yet been carried out on W / O type compositions which are stable and can provide a cooling sensation during application, as well as a reduced or non-greasy sensation after application.

[0007] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0008] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0009] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0010] In order to provide a refreshing sensation such as a sensation of being sprayed with water, during application, it has already been proposed to increase the amount of water in the W / H type composition.

[0011] However, a large quantity of water in a W / O type composition results in a high proportion of aqueous droplets, which tend to be larger and also closer together. Therefore, for these compositions, there is an increased risk of coalescence between the droplets, leading to destabilization of the composition.

[0012] An objective of the present invention is to propose a stable composition that can provide a refreshing sensation, as well as a reduced or non-greasy sensation, despite the composition including a large amount of water.

[0013] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

[0014] (al) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0015] (a2) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0016] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener:

[0017] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic;

[0018] (d) at least one oil; and

[0019] (e) water,

[0020] in which

[0021] The quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55 % by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0022] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0023] The (a) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from among the polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, preferably the esters of (i-1) at least a polyglycerol and (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, and more preferably in the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

[0024] The quantity of the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl polymeric esters, preferably esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (iv) at least one linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and more preferably polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

[0026] The quantity of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The difference between the HLB values ​​of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more.

[0028] The (b) lipophilic thickener can be chosen from non-wax lipophilic thickeners, preferably non-wax organic lipophilic thickeners, and more preferably fatty acid dextrin esters, such as dextrin palmitate.

[0029] The quantity of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The (c) hydrophilic thickener can be chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms and, preferably, from the group consisting of cardollan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and one of their mixtures.

[0031] The quantity of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] The density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils may be 0.85 or more, preferably 0.90 or more, and more preferably 0.95 or more.

[0033] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight and, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one powder.

[0035] The (f) powder can be chosen from the fillers, preferably from the group consisting of starches, silicas, celluloses, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of corn starch, porous silica, porous cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0036] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous material such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material. Best embodiment of the invention

[0037] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a stable composition that can offer a refreshing sensation, as well as a reduced or non-greasy sensation, despite the fact that the composition includes a large amount of water.

[0038] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising:

[0039] (al) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0040] (a2) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0041] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener:

[0042] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic;

[0043] (d) at least one oil; and

[0044] (e) water,

[0045] in which

[0046] The quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55 % by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0047] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0048] The composition according to the present invention is stable although the composition includes a large amount of water, and can provide a refreshing sensation such as a sensation of being sprayed with water, as well as a reduced or non-greasy sensation.

[0049] The composition according to the present invention is stable immediately after preparation and for a long time afterward, even under temperature changes from cold to hot. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for extended periods, even during temperature fluctuations in summer.

[0050] The composition according to the present invention can offer a refreshing sensation such as a sensation of being sprayed with water, preferably during application.

[0051] The composition according to the present invention can provide a textural transformation during application, preferably at the beginning of application. Textural transformation here means a change in the texture of a gel or cream, for example, into a liquid, which corresponds to a change in the physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the composition's structure that could allow the liquid to flow from the composition. The textural transformation can provide a cooling sensation.

[0052] The composition according to the present invention can also provide a reduced or non-greasy sensation, preferably after application.

[0053] The term “greasy” here means a property which gives an oily sensation to the skin.

[0054] The composition according to this includes (d) oil, the composition may cause an oily or greasy feeling after application.

[0055] However, the composition according to the present invention may not provide any oily or greasy sensation, or may provide a reduced oily or greasy sensation, although the composition includes (d) oil.

[0056] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a comfortable texture, in particular an excellent feel during and after application of the composition.

[0057] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention includes a very limited or zero amount of silicone.

[0058] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may include a very limited or zero amount of surfactant(s) including at least one polyoxyalkylene fraction such as the polyoxyethylene fraction such as polyethylene glycol (PEG) based surfactant.

[0059] In addition, the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and / or the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be biodegradable.

[0060] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly.

[0061] The composition according to the present invention and similar will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0062] The composition according to the present invention includes:

[0063] (al) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0064] (a2) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0065] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener:

[0066] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic;

[0067] (d) at least one oil; and

[0068] (e) water,

[0069] in which

[0070] The quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55 % by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0071] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone. (First fatty acid polyglyceryl ester)

[0072] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less. Only one type of such fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be used, but two or more different types of such fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may be used in combination.

[0073] The (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a non-ionic surfactant.

[0074] It is preferable that the (al) first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid be biodegradable, and preferably be highly biodegradable or have high biodegradability. Here, the expression "highly biodegradable" or "high biodegradability" refers to biodegradability classified as "readily biodegradable" in accordance with the test methodology according to OECD biodegradation test procedure 301B, 301C or 301F, preferably OECD 301C.

[0075] The (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value of 1 or more, preferably of 2 or more, and more preferably of 3 or more.

[0076] The (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value of 1 to 4, preferably 2 to 4, and more preferably 3 to 4.

[0077] The term HLB (“hydrophilic-lipophilic balance”) is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. HLB values ​​can be calculated using the formula HLB = 20*(1S / A), where S is the saponification value of the ester and A is the neutralization value of the fatty acid.

[0078] If two or more first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0079] The first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid may be a non-polymerized or a polymeric polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid. "Non-polymerized fatty acid" and "polymerized fatty acid" herein refer to a non-polymerized fatty acid and a polymerized fatty acid, respectively. "Polymerized fatty acid" includes, for example, a polycondensate of hydroxy acids, in which each hydroxy acid comprises 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms.

[0080] It is preferable that the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be a polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.

[0081] It is more preferable that the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be chosen from the esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids.

[0082] (i-1) Polyglycerol can be represented by the following chemical formula: OH [ OH

[0083] in which "n" indicates the degree of condensation, and can range from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7, and more preferably from 3 to 5. Even more preferably, "n" indicates 5.

[0084] Preferably, the first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid comprises 10 or fewer glycerol units, preferably 8 or fewer glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or fewer glycerol units. In particular, it is preferable that the first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid comprises 3 to 6 glycerol units.

[0085] The (ii-1) saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacid polycondensate is a polymer of hydroxy acids.

[0086] In this embodiment, the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, the polymer can be a fatty acid polycondensate that can be formed by the reaction of the carboxyl group or the hydroxyl group of one fatty acid with the hydroxyl group and the carboxyl group of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids. In other words, the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids.

[0087] When the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is a polymer, the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0088] The hydroxy acid can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C10 -C26, preferably in Ci2-C24, more preferably in Ci4-C22 and even more preferably in Ci6-C20, having at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, preferably a carboxyl group and a hydroxyl group, and may be selected from hydroxystearic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

[0089] Ricinoleic acid is an example of a hydroxy acid, in particular an unsaturated hydroxy acid, and has a carboxyl group and a hydroxyl group. Thus, the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid can be formed by the polycondensation of ricinoleic acids, giving the polyricinoleate. Thus, the (al) first ester of the polyglyceryl fatty acid can be polyglycerol polyricinoleate (PGPR), that is, a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of polyricinoleate.

[0090] The first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG3 polyricinoleate (HLB: 4.0), PG4 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.5), PG5 polyricinoleate (HLB: 2 or less), PG6 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.3), and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Preferably, the (a) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester should be chosen from among the polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, more preferably the esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, and even more preferably from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

[0092] The quantity of the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] The quantity of the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] The quantity of the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester)

[0095] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a2) at least one second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4. Only one type of such fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be used, but two or more different types of such fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may be used in combination.

[0096] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a nonionic surfactant.

[0097] It is preferable that the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be biodegradable, and preferably be highly biodegradable or have high biodegradability. Here, the expression "highly biodegradable" or "high biodegradability" refers to biodegradability classified as "readily biodegradable" in accordance with the test methodology according to OECD biodegradation test procedure 301B, 301C or 301F, preferably OECD 301C.

[0098] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value of 8 or less, preferably 7 or less, and more preferably 6 or less.

[0099] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value greater than 4 and 8 or less, preferably greater than 4 and 7 or less, more preferably greater than 4 and 6 or less.

[0100] The term HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. HLB values ​​can be calculated using the formula HLB = 20 * (1S / A), where S is the saponification value of the ester and A is the neutralization value of the fatty acid.

[0101] If two or more (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0102] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be a non-polymer fatty acid polyglyceryl ester or a polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl ester. "Non-polymer fatty acid" and "polymer fatty acid" herein refer to a non-polymerized fatty acid and a polymerized fatty acid, respectively. "Polymeric fatty acid" includes, for example, a polycondensate of hydroxy acids, in which each hydroxy acid comprises 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms.

[0103] It is preferable that the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be a polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.

[0104] It is more preferable that the (a2) second polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid be chosen from the esters of:

[0105] (i-2) at least one polyglycerol;

[0106] and

[0107] (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids,

[0108] (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and

[0109] (iv) at least one linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.

[0110] (i-2) Polyglycerols can be represented by the following chemical formula:

[0111] in which "n" indicates the degree of condensation, and can range from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7, and more preferably from 3 to 5. Even more preferably, "n" indicates 3.

[0112] Preferably, the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 10 or fewer glycerol units, preferably 8 or fewer glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or fewer glycerol units. In particular, it is preferable that the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 3 to 6 glycerol units.

[0113] The (ii-2) saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacid polycondensate is a polymer of hydroxy acids.

[0114] In this embodiment, the fatty acid fraction of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, the polymer may be a fatty acid polycondensate that can be formed by the reaction of the carboxyl group or the hydroxyl group of a fatty acid and the group hydroxyl and carboxylic acid of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid fraction of the (a2) second polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid can be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids. In other words, the (a2) second polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid can be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids.

[0115] When the fatty acid fraction of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is a polymer, the fatty acid fraction of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0116] The hydroxy acid may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C10 -C26, preferably in Ci2-C24, more preferably in Ci4-C22 and even more preferably in Ci6-C20, having at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, preferably a carboxyl group and a hydroxyl group, and may be selected from hydroxystearic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

[0117] According to one embodiment, the (ii-2) saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacid polycondensate is a polymer of hydroxyacids which may be hydroxystearic polyacid such as (12-hydroxystearic) polyacid.

[0118] According to one embodiment, the (iii) linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid (saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated) may contain from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and arachidic acid, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid (C18).

[0119] According to one embodiment, the (iv) linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid (saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated) may contain from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid and dodecanedioic acid, in particular sebacic acid (Cio).

[0120] According to a preferred embodiment, the above esters can be obtained by esterification of:

[0121] (i-21) polyglycerols with 2 to 10, preferably 3 to 8, and more preferably 4 to 6 glycerol motifs;

[0122] and

[0123] (ii-21) polyhydroxystearic acids,

[0124] (iü1) linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and

[0125] (iv1) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0126] Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20% and 40%, preferably between 40% and 70%.

[0127] According to a more preferred embodiment, the above (a-3-2) esters can be obtained by esterification of:

[0128] (i-2") polyglycerol with 4 glycerol motifs;

[0129] and

[0130] (ü-2") polyacid (12-hydroxystearic),

[0131] (iii") isostearic acid, and

[0132] (iv") sebacic acid.

[0133] Such poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) esters of polyglycerol are described in US application 2005 / 0031580.

[0134] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the above ester may be a compound represented by the following chemical formula:

[0135] in which

[0136] - PHS designates a residue of polyhydroxystearic acid, and

[0137] - IS designates a residue of isostearic acid.

[0138] The above compound may be named polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate. Polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate is sold, for example, under the name Isolan GPS® by the company Evonik.

[0139] Preferably, the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from among fatty acid polyglyceryl polymeric esters, more preferably esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, (iv) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid linear or branched, and even more preferentially polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydro xystearate / sebacate.

[0140] The amount of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] The amount of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] The quantity of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (HLB difference)

[0143] The difference between the HLB values ​​of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more.

[0144] If the difference between the HLB values ​​of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more, the stability of the composition according to the present invention under temperature changes can be further improved. (Lipophilic thickener)

[0145] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one lipophilic thickener. Only one type of lipophilic thickener may be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic thickeners may be used in combination.

[0146] The (b) lipophilic thickener can thicken the composition according to the present invention, by thickening the fatty or oily phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0147] According to the present invention, the "lipophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0148] The (b) lipophilic thickener can be selected from organic lipophilic thickeners. Organic lipophilic thickeners can be selected from the fatty acid dextrin esters, glyceryl fatty acid esters, amino acid gelling agents, sucrose fatty acid esters, fatty acids and their salts.

[0149] It is preferable that the (b) lipophilic thickener be chosen from fatty acid dextrin esters.

[0150] Examples of fatty acid dextrin esters include those selected from dextrin monoesters and polyesters of at least one fatty acid, for example, those corresponding to formula (II):

[0151] in which:

[0152] - n is an integer from 3 to 200, for example from 20 to 150, such that 25 to 50,

[0153] the radicals R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the hydrogen and acyl groups (R-CO-) in which the acyl radical R is chosen from linear, branched, saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, for example from 7 to 29, for example further from 7 to 21, such as from 11 to 19, for example further from 13 to 17, or even 15, carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals Rb R2 or R3 is not hydrogen.

[0154] For example, RB R2 and R3 can be chosen from hydrogen and acyl groups (R-CO-) in which the acyl radical R is a hydrocarbon-based radical as defined above, provided that at least two of said radicals Rb R2 or R3 are identical and are not hydrogen.

[0155] The radicals RB R2 and R3 can all comprise an acyl group (R-CO-), which is either identical or different. In one aspect, they are identical.

[0156] For example, n can range from 25 to 50, and for example, can be equal to 38 in formula (II) of the ester as disclosed herein.

[0157] When the radicals Rh R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, include an acyl group (R-CO-), the chosen acyl radicals may be cited among the radicals caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyle, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethyl butyryl, ethyl methyl acetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethyl hexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyle, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyle, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] One can cite at least one dextrin palmitate used as a fatty acid dextrin ester. This ester can be used alone or in a mixture with other esters.

[0159] Fatty acid dextrin esters may have a degree of substitution less than or equal to 2.5, based on a glucose motif, for example, ranging from 1.5 to 2.5, such as from 2 to 2.5, based on a glucose motif. The weight-average molecular weight of the dextrin esters may be from 10,000 to 150,000, for example, from 12,000 to 100,000, such as from 15,000 to 80,000.

[0160] Fatty acid dextrin esters, such as dextrin palmitates, are commercially available under the name Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL from Chiba Flour.

[0161] The (b) lipophilic thickener may not be a wax. Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) lipophilic thickener is not chosen from waxes.

[0162] It is preferable that the (b) lipophilic thickener be chosen from among non-wax lipophilic thickeners, more preferably organic non-wax lipophilic thickeners, and even more preferably fatty acid dextrin esters, such as dextrin palmitate.

[0163] The quantity of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] The quantity of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] The quantity of (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Hydrophilic thickener)

[0166] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener preferably selected from non-ionic polysaccharides. If Two or more of these hydrophilic thickeners are used; they may be identical or different.

[0167] The (c) hydrophilic thickener can thicken the composition according to the present invention, by thickening the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0168] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the first composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0169] Non-ionic polysaccharides can be selected from non-cellulose-based polysaccharides.

[0170] Non-cellulose-based polysaccharide here refers to polysaccharides that are not derived from cellulose. Thus, cellulose and its derivatives, such as polyquaternium-10, are not included in the scope of non-cellulose-based polysaccharide.

[0171] The nonionic polysaccharide may have a linear or branched structure, preferably a linear structure.

[0172] The nonionic polysaccharide can be a homopolysaccharide comprising a single type of monosaccharide, or a heteropolysaccharide comprising two or more different types of monosaccharide.

[0173] It is preferable that the nonionic polysaccharide be biodegradable. The term "biodegradable" means that the nonionic polysaccharide can be degraded or broken down in environments or in or on a living organism due, for example, to the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in environments or in or on the living organism. Furthermore, the biodegradable nonionic polysaccharide can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0174] It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener, which is chosen from a non-ionic polysaccharide, be derived from natural resources, such as plants and microorganisms.

[0175] Examples of nonionic polysaccharides derived from plants include: modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, e.g. wheat, maize or rice, vegetables, e.g. yellow peas, and tubers, e.g. potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, mannans, glucomannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, xyloglucans, arabinogalactans, agar, locust bean gum or carob gum, tamarind seed gum, the dextrin, galactomannans, such as tara gum, guar gums, and their non-ionic derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof

[0176] Among the starches that can be used, one can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising elementary fractions that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these fractions and their arrangement allow one to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) from amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

[0177] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches may be chosen, for example, from maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0178] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water and which has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

[0179] Starches may optionally be hydroxyalkylated at Ci-C6 or acylated at Ci-C6 (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0180] Guar gums may be modified or unmodified.

[0181] Modified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, modified by hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6.

[0182] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, examples include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0183] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0184] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0185] These non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP-120 and Jaguar HP-120 by the Solvay company.

[0186] It is more preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener, which is chosen from a non-ionic polysaccharide, be chosen from those derived from microorganisms, which may be called non-ionic “biopolysaccharides”.

[0187] Microorganism-derived polysaccharide or biopolysaccharide refers to a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria. Microorganism-derived polysaccharide can be produced by fermentation of sugars via microorganisms.

[0188] The microorganism-derived polysaccharide may contain motifs selected from mannose, glucose, galactose, rhamnose and mixtures thereof.

[0189] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms can optionally be chemically modified.

[0190] Examples of non-ionic biopolysaccharides include cardollan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener be chosen from among non-ionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms, and more preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum and one of their mixtures.

[0192] It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener not be chosen from among the [3-glucans.

[0193] The quantity of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] The quantity of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0195] The quantity of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Oil)

[0196] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0197] The (d) oil(s) may constitute a fatty phase, which may be a continuous phase, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0198] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0199] The (d) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0200] The (d) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0201] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0202] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0203] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils, such as C15-19 alkane, isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0204] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0205] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters are derived is branched.

[0206] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0207] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0208] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; trilactate glyceryl; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0209] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0210] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0211] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in linear or branched C12-C22, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0212] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0213] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0214] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0215] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0216] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, one may cite, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, the isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), the pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0218] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0219] - linear or branched C5-Ci9 alkanes, optionally cyclic. Examples Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0220] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0221] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and a decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0222] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0223] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0224] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0225] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be selected from any saturated C6-C3O fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C3O fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C2O fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may preferably be used. Any saturated C6-C2O fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used more preferably. Branched Cl6-C2o fatty alcohols can be used even more preferentially.

[0226] Examples of fatty alcohols include isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, 2-decyltetradecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0227] It is also preferable that the (d) oil be chosen from oils with a high density such as 0.8 or more, preferably 0.9 or more, and more preferably 1.0 or more.

[0228] The (d) oil may be selected from polar oils, non-polar oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, artificial triglycerides and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of squalene, C15-19 alkane, diisopropyl sebacate, artificial triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0229] It is preferable that the density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils be 0.85 or more, more preferably 0.90 or more, and even more preferably 0.95 or more. If the density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils is 0.85 or more, the stability of the composition according to the present invention under temperature changes can be further improved.

[0230] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0233] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) water.

[0234] (e) water can constitute the aqueous phases, which can be dispersed or discontinuous phases, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0235] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55% by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 85% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 50% and 85% by weight or less, preferably greater than 55% by weight and 80% by weight or less, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight and 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Powder)

[0238] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one powder. If two or more powders are used, they may be identical or different.

[0239] According to the present invention, the (f) powder is insoluble in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water.

[0240] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "insoluble powder" means a powder whose solubility in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water at 25 °C is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder, and most preferably without solubility.

[0241] The (f) powder is in the form of one or more particles.

[0242] The diameter of the (f) powder is not limited. The average particle size of the (f) powder may be 10 nm or more, preferably 50 nm or more, and more preferably 100 nm or more, and / or may be 1000 µm or less, preferably 500 µm or less, and more preferably 300 µm or less. Thus, the (f) powder may have an average particle size from 10 nm to 1000 µm, preferably from 50 nm to 500 µm, and more preferably from 100 nm to 300 nm. The average particle size may be a volume-average particle size that can be measured by dynamic light scattering with, for example, Nicomp Z380.

[0243] The (f) powder is preferably in the form of a solid.

[0244] The (f) powder can be selected from the fillers.

[0245] The term "charge" should be understood as meaning a colourless or white, inorganic or synthetic particle that is insoluble in any liquid component in the composition according to the present invention, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

[0246] The charge(s) may be inorganic or organic, and may be spherical or oblong in shape, regardless of the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like). One can to name but not limited to talc, mica, silica, silica silylate, kaolin, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite, powders made of polyamide (Nylon®), poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene], powders made of polyurethane, powders made of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauryllysine, starch, hollow polymeric microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride) / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), particles made of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate,porous silica, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate.

[0247] For the present invention, examples of filler include modified or unmodified starch.

[0248] Modified starch is based on base starch. Base starch, as used herein, includes all starches derived from any native source, each of which is suitable for use herein. Native starch, as used herein, is starch found in nature. Starches derived from a plant obtained by standard breeding techniques, including crossing, translocation, inversion, transformation, or any other genetic or chromosomal engineering process, to include their variations, are also suitable. In addition, starches derived from a cultivated plant from artificial mutations and variations of the above generic starches, which can be produced by known standard processes of mutation breeding, are also suitable herein.

[0249] Typical sources of starch are cereals, tubers, roots, pulses, and fruits. The native source may be waxy varieties of maize, peas, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava), arrowroot, canna, and sorghum, and their low- and high-amylose varieties. As used herein, the term "low-amylose starch" is intended to include starch containing not more than about 10%, in particular not more than 5%, and more particularly not more than 2% by weight of amylose. As used herein, the term "high-amylose starch" is intended to include starch containing at least about 50%, in particular at least approximately 70%, and more specifically at least approximately 80% amylose by weight. Starches with a high amylose content may be preferable.

[0250] Examples of unmodified starch include Zea mays (maize) starch, marketed under the name Beauté by Roquette® ST005 by Roquette Freres.

[0251] Modified starch can be pregelatinized. Pregelatinization and techniques for achieving pregelatinization are known in the art and disclosed, for example, in US patents Nos. 4,465,702, 5,037,929, 5,131,953, and 5,149,799. See also Chapter XXII, "Production and Use of Pregelatinized Starch," in Starch: Chemistry and Technology, Vol. III—Industrial Aspects, R.L. Whistler and E.F. Paschall, Editors, Academie Press, New York, 1967. The term pregelatinized is meant to refer to swollen starch particles that have lost their birefringence and / or Maltese crosses in polarized light. These pregelatinized starch derivatives are substantially soluble in cold water without cooking. In this context, "soluble" does not necessarily mean the formation of a true molecular solution, but can also mean a colloidal dispersion. In one embodiment, the starch is completely pregelatinized.

[0252] Pregelatinized modified starch is easily and rapidly soluble, even in cold water.

[0253] Pre-gelatinization can be achieved by methods including, but not limited to, drum drying, extrusion, and spray drying. In one embodiment, extrusion is used for the simultaneous cooking and drying of starch (see, for example, US Patent No. 3,137,592). This process uses the physical treatment of a starch / water mixture at high temperatures and pressures, resulting in the gelatinization of the starch, followed by expansion after leaving the nozzle with rapid evaporation of the water.

[0254] In one embodiment, pre-gelatinization is carried out to provide good solubility and eliminate undissolved particles, which can give rise to an unpleasant and gritty sensation in the composition.

[0255] In one embodiment, the starch has a majority of intact starch granules. Aqueous dispersions of pregelatinized starch derivatives with a largely intact granular structure generally have a smoother, more uniform texture than aqueous dispersions of starches without a granular structure, which may have a slightly abrasive feel. In the case of pregelatinized starches with an intact granular structure, the native internal structure of hydrogen bonds is destroyed, but the external shape is maintained.

[0256] Modified starch can be crosslinked. Crosslinking of the starch chains can be achieved by suitable crosslinking agents, i.e., bifunctional compounds. In one embodiment, the crosslinking process used is the Phosphorylation, in which starch is reacted with phosphorus oxychloride, phosphorus pentoxide, and / or sodium trimetaphosphate. Two starch chains are crosslinked by an anionic PO group. The anionic nature of the crosslinking sites contributes to the emulsion-stabilizing action of the starch used according to the present invention. In another embodiment, the crosslinking process is carried out using C4-C18 dicarboxylic alkene or alkane acids, which include, without limitation, C4-C8 dicarboxylic alkane acids, an example of which is adipic acid. The dicarboxylic alkane or alkene acid links two starch chains via ester bonds. It can be in the form of a straight or branched chain. Derivatives can be obtained, for example, by reacting starch with mixed anhydrides of dicarboxylic acid and acetic acid.In one embodiment, less than 0.1% by weight based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used. In another embodiment, approximately 0.06 to 0.1% by weight based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used.

[0257] It is preferable that the modified starch be hydrophobic. It is even more preferable that the surface of the modified starch be hydrophobic.

[0258] The modification to make the starch hydrophobic can be carried out by grafting hydrophobic functional groups such as the acyl group at C,6 (acetyl), hydroxyalkyl at Ci_6 (hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl or octenylsuccinic.

[0259] The alkyl fraction of the functional group may have 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 5 carbon atoms and, more preferably, 3 or 4 carbon atoms.

[0260] Preferably, the modified starch should be hydroxyalkyl-modified starch.

[0261] The position of the hydroxyl group, which is linked to the starch backbone via an alkyl group such as 2 to 6 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, is not critical and can be in the alpha to omega position. In a suitable embodiment, the degree of substitution of the hydroxyalkylation is about 0.08 to 0.3. The degree of substitution is the average number of substituted OH groups in the starch molecule per anhydroglucose unit. The hydroxyalkylation of a starch can be brought about by reacting a native starch with alkylene oxides having the appropriate number of carbon atoms, including, but not limited to, hydroxypropylation by reacting starch with propylene oxide. Hydroxyalkyl modified starch may also contain more than one hydroxyl group per alkyl group.

[0262] The hydroxyalkyl modified starch may be selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and a mixture thereof.

[0263] The processes for preparing hydroxyalkyl-modified starch can be carried out in any order. However, those skilled in the art would understand the advantages of certain orders. For example, hydroxypropylation would generally be carried out before crosslinking, if the starch is crosslinked, with phosphorus oxychloride because the typical hydroxypropylation process would destroy some of the crosslinking achieved.

[0264] It is preferable that the modified starch be film-forming, that is to say, that it be capable of forming a film.

[0265] Examples of hydroxyalkyl modified starch preferably used in the present invention may include the following:

[0266] Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (pregelatinized maize starch) marketed by Nouryon under the name Structure® ZEA and XL; and

[0267] Modified maize starch (hydroxypropyl, pregelatinized, high amylose content) marketed by Nouryon under the name AMAZE®.

[0268] As an example of modified starch, we can also mention aluminum starch octenyl succinate, marketed under the name Beauté by Roquette® ST012 by Roquette Freres, and DRY-FLO® PURE by Nouryon.

[0269] In one embodiment, the (f) powder can be selected from cellulose particles.

[0270] The cellulose particle used for the present invention can be in any particulate form.

[0271] It is preferable that the ratio between the longest diameter and the shortest diameter of the cellulose particle used for the present invention should be from 1.0 to 10, preferably from 1.0 to 5, and more preferably from 1.0 to 3.

[0272] It is more preferable that the cellulose particle be spherical, preferably with a ratio between the longest diameter and the shortest diameter of 1.0 to 1.1.

[0273] The cellulose particle used for the present invention may have

[0274] a wetting point for the oil of at least 40 mL / 100 g, preferably at least 50 mL / 100 g, more preferably at least 60 mL / 100 g, more preferably at least 100 mL / 100 g, and even more preferably at least 250 mL / 100 g, and preferably 1500 mL / 100 g or less; and

[0275] a wetting point for water of at least 100 mL / 100 g, preferably of at least 200 mL / 100 g, more preferably of at least 300 mL / 100 g, even more preferably of at least 350 mL / 100 g and, preferably of 1500 mL / 100 g or less.

[0276] The expression "oil wetting point" in this document refers to an amount of oil required to make a target powder completely wet, which can be recognized, in particular, by the formation of a paste with the target powder.

[0277] The wetting point for the oil can be determined by the following protocol. 1. 2 g of a target powder are mixed using a spatula on a plate of glass while adding oil, especially linear ester oil, such as isononyl isononanoate (WICKENOL 151 / ALZO). 2. When the target powder becomes completely wet and begins to form a paste, the weight of the added oil is determined as the weight at the wetting point. 3. The wetting point for the oil is calculated from the equation: Wetting point for the oil (mL / 100 g) = {(wetting point weight) / 2 g]X100 / the density of the oil.

[0278] Similarly, the expression "water wetting point" in this document refers to an amount of water required to make a target powder completely wet, which can be recognized, in particular, by the formation of a paste with the target powder.

[0279] The mooring point for the water can be determined by the following protocol. 1. 2 g of a target powder are mixed using a spatula on a plate of glass while adding water with a density of 0.998 g / mL. 2. When the target powder becomes completely wet and begins to form a paste, the weight of the added water is determined as the weight at the wetting point. 3. The wetting point for water is calculated from the following equation: Wetting point for water (mL / 100 g) = {(weight at wetting point) / 2 g]X100 / density of water.

[0280] It is preferable that the ratio between the water wetting point and the oil wetting point of the cellulose particle used for the present invention be 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, more preferably 3 or less, and even more preferably 2 or less, and preferably 0.1 or more.

[0281] The cellulose particle may be porous or non-porous, preferably porous.

[0282] The porosity of the cellulose particle can be characterized by a specific area of ​​0.05 m2 / g to 1,500 m2 / g, more preferably of 0.1 m2 / g to 1,000 m2 / g, and even more preferably of 0.2 m2 / g to 500 m2 / g according to the BET method.

[0283] In the present invention, the cellulose that can be used for the cellulose particle is not limited by types of cellulose such as cellulose I, cellulose II, or the like. As a cellulose that can be used as material for the cellulose particle in the present invention, type II cellulose is preferable.

[0284] The cellulose particle, preferably a spherical cellulose particle, can be prepared, for example, as follows. 1. A suspension of calcium carbonate, as an aggregation inhibitor, is added to an alkaline aqueous solution of water-soluble anionic polymer, and then stirred. 2. The viscose and the aqueous solution obtained in point (1) above are mixed to form a dispersion of fine viscose particles. 3. The dispersion of fine viscose particles obtained in point (2) above is heated to aggregate the viscose in the dispersion, and neutralized with acid, to form fine cellulose particles. 4. The fine cellulose particles are separated from the mother liquid obtained in point (3) above and washed and dried, if necessary.

[0285] Viscose is a raw material for cellulose. It is preferable to use viscose with a gamma value of 30 to 100% by mass and an alkaline concentration of 4 to 10% by mass. Examples of the above-mentioned water-soluble anionic polymers include the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid, the sodium salt of polystyrene sulfonic acid, and the like. The above-mentioned calcium carbonate is used to prevent the aggregation of fine viscose particles in the dispersion and to reduce the cellulose particle size. An example of a calcium carbonate slurry is Tama Pearl TP-221GS, marketed by Okutama Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan.

[0286] According to one embodiment, the cellulose particle may or may not include a cellulose derivative. The cellulose derivative may be selected from cellulose esters and ethers.

[0287] It is stated that the expression "cellulose ester" designates, in the text above and below, a polymer consisting of an a (1-4) sequence of partially or totally esterified anhydroglucose rings, the esterification being obtained by the reaction of all or part of the free hydroxyl functions of said anhydroglucose rings with a linear or branched carboxylic acid or a carboxylic acid derivative (acid chloride or acid anhydride) containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0288] Preferably, the cellulose ester results from the reaction of some of the free hydroxyl functions of said rings with a carboxylic acid containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0289] Advantageously, the cellulose esters are selected from cellulose acetates, propionates, butyrates, isobutyrates, acetobutyrates and acetopropionates and mixtures thereof.

[0290] These cellulose esters may have a weight average molecular mass ranging from 3,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 500,000, and more preferably from 15,000 to 300,000.

[0291] In the text above and below, the expression "cellulose ether" refers to a polymer consisting of an α(1-4) sequence of partially anhydroglucose rings etherified, some of the free hydroxyl functions of said rings being substituted by an -OR radical, R being preferably a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0292] Cellulose ethers are therefore preferably chosen from among alkyl cellulose ethers with an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl cellulose ethers.

[0293] These cellulose ethers may have a weight average molecular mass ranging from 3,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 500,000 and more preferably from 15,000 to 300,000.

[0294] Examples of cellulose particles used for the present invention include the following spherical cellulose particles marketed by Daito Kasei in Japan:

[0295] Cellulobeads USF (wetting point for oil is 296.0 mL / 100 g, wetting point for water is 400.8 mL / 100 g and the ratio between the wetting point for water and the wetting point for oil is 1.4) with an average particle size of 4 pm;

[0296] Cellulobeads USF-X (the wetting point for oil is, at most, 80 mL / 100 g, the wetting point for water is 250 mL / 100 g, and the ratio between the wetting point for water and the wetting point for oil is 3.1 or less) with an average particle size of 3 to 5 pm;

[0297] Cellulobeads D-5 (wetting point for oil is, at most, 70 mL / 100 g, wetting point for water is 150 mL / 100 g, and the ratio between the wetting point for water and the wetting point for oil is 2.1 or less) with an average particle size of 8 to 10 pm; and

[0298] Cellulobeads D-10 (the wetting point for oil is, at most, 60 mL / 100 g, the wetting point for water is 140 mL / 100 g, and the ratio between the wetting point for water and the wetting point for oil is 2.3 or less) with an average particle size of 12 to 15 pm.

[0299] The cellulose particle used for the present invention may or may not be pre-coated.

[0300] In a particular embodiment, the cellulose particle is initially coated. The material of an initial coating of the particle is not limited, but an organic material such as a mono- or dicarboxylic acid or one of its salts, an amino acid, an N-acylaminated acid, an amido, a silicone, and a modified silicone may be preferable. Examples of organic materials include potassium succinate, lauroyl lysine, and acrylic-modified silicone.

[0301] In other words, the cellulose particle used for the present invention can be surface-treated. Examples of surface treatments include: 1. Treatments with fluorine-based compounds such as treatments with perfluoroalkylphosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoropolyethers, fluorosilicones and fluorinated silicone resins 2. Silicone treatments such as treatments with methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, dimethylpolysiloxanes and tetramethyltetrahydrogenocyclotetrasiloxane in the gas phase 3. Post-treatments such as alkyl chain addition and similar treatments following gas-phase silicone treatment 4. Treatments with silane coupling agents 5. Treatments with titanium coupling agents 6. Treatments with aluminum coupling agents 7. Treatments with oily agents 8. N-acylated lysine treatments 9. Polyacrylic acid treatments 10. Metallic soap treatments such as those with stearate salt or myristate salt 11. Acrylic resin-based treatments 12. Metal oxide treatments

[0302] It is possible to carry out a plurality of surface treatments in combination with the above treatments.

[0303] It is preferable that the powder (f) be chosen from the charges.

[0304] It is more preferable that the (f) powder be chosen from starches, the silicas, celluloses, and their mixtures.

[0305] It is more preferable that the (f) powder be chosen from corn starch, porous silica, porous cellulose particles, and mixtures thereof.

[0306] The quantity of the (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0307] The quantity of the (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0308] The quantity of the powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Silicone)

[0309] If the composition contains silicone(s), one, two or more silicones may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of silicone or a combination of different types of silicones may be used.

[0310] In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone" used herein means, in accordance with the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure of varying molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, and essentially comprising a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond =Si-O-Si=), the optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular alkyl radicals of the form C1.C10, and especially methyl, fluoroalkyl, and aryl radicals, and in particular phenyl radicals.

[0311] The silicone(s), if present in the composition used for the process according to the present invention, may be volatile silicone, non-volatile silicone or combinations thereof.

[0312] The silicone(s) may be selected from, but not limited to, organopolysiloxanes, such as polydialkylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, amino-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, carboxyl-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones, aliphatic alcohol-modified silicones, epoxy-modified silicones, fluorine-modified silicones, cyclic silicones, aminopolyether-modified silicones, and mixtures thereof. The silicone(s) may be chosen from among polydialkylsiloxanes, such as a polydimethylsiloxane, and amino-modified silicones, and in particular chosen from among amino-modified silicones.

[0313] In one embodiment, the silicone can be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, amino-modified silicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof, preferably from aminosilicones.

[0314] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. Examples of polydialkylsiloxanes include linear trimethylsiloxanes and terminal polydimethylsiloxanes. hydroxydimethylsilyl, for example. Among the polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples include linear and branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes.

[0315] According to the present invention, the expression "amino-modified silicone", or aminosilicone, designates any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium, and more particularly at least one primary amine.

[0316] The quantity of silicone(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0317] It is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention does not include silicone. (Optional ingredients)

[0318] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, ingredients typically used in cosmetics, specifically cationic, anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants other than ingredients (a1) and (a2), preservatives, or the like, in a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

[0319] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0320] The composition according to the present invention includes a very limited amount of silicone(s) in order to respect the environment.

[0321] The quantity of silicone(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include silicone.

[0322] The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited amount of surfactants comprising at least one polyoxyalkylene fraction such as the polyoxyethylene fraction, in particular polyoxyalkylene-alkyl ether surfactants such as polyoxyethylene-alkyl ether surfactants, polyoxyalkylene glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactants such as polyoxyethylene glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactants, polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid ester surfactants such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester surfactants, polyoxyalkylene sorbitol fatty acid ester surfactants such as Polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester surfactant(s), polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester surfactant(s) such as polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester surfactant(s) and polyoxyalkylene phytosterol surfactant(s) such as polyoxyethylene phytosterol surfactant(s), in an effort to respect the environment.

[0323] The amount of the surfactant(s) including at least one polyoxyalkylene fraction in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include any surfactant including at least one polyoxyalkylene fraction. (Methods of implementation)

[0324] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0325] 0.01% to 15% by weight of (al) at least one first polyglyceryl ester of acid fat having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0326] 0.01% to 15% by weight of (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl ester of acid fat having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0327] 0.01% to 20% by weight of (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;

[0328] 0.001% to 10% by weight of (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from the non-ionic polysaccharides;

[0329] 0.1% to 30% by weight of (d) at least one oil; and

[0330] more than 50% by weight (e) of water,

[0331] in which

[0332] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0333] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0334] 0.05% to 10% by weight of (al1) at least one first polyglyceryl ester of acid fat having an HLB value of 4 or less, selected from esters of at least one (i-1) polyglycerol and at least one (ii-1) polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids;

[0335] 0.05% to 10% by weight of (a2') at least one second polyglyceryl ester of acid fat having an HLB value greater than 4, selected from the esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol and (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (iv) at least one linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid;

[0336] 0.05% to 15% by weight of (b1) at least one non-wax lipophilic thickener;

[0337] 0.005% to 5% by weight of (c1) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from the non-ionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms;

[0338] 0.5% to 25% by weight of (d') at least one oil where the density of (d) oil or the the average density of the (d) oils is 0.85 or higher; and

[0339] more than 55% by weight (e) of water,

[0340] in which

[0341] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0342] According to another, more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0343] 0.1% to 5% by weight of (al") polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate;

[0344] 0.1% to 5% by weight of (a2") diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate polyglyceryl-4;

[0345] 0.1% to 10% by weight of (b") at least one lipophilic thickener selected from the fatty acid dextrin esters;

[0346] 0.01% to 1% by weight of (c") sclerotium gum;

[0347] 1% to 20% by weight of (d") at least one oil where the density of the (d) oil or the the average density of the (d) oils is 0.90 or higher; and

[0348] more than 60% by weight (e) of water,

[0349] in which

[0350] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone. (Preparation)

[0351] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0352] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means may include a homogenizer, for example, a turbine mixer. (Shape)

[0353] The composition according to the present invention may be of the E / H type.

[0354] In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of aqueous phases may be dispersed in the oily phase. In this case, the aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while the oily phase is a continuous phase.

[0355] The aqueous phase may include (c) hydrophilic thickener and (e) water.

[0356] The oily phase may include the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, the (b) lipophilic thickener and the (d) oil.

[0357] Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a W / H type composition, comprising:

[0358] a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0359] (al) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0360] (a2) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0361] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener:

[0362] (d) at least one oil,

[0363] and

[0364] a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0365] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic; and

[0366] (e) of water,

[0367] in which

[0368] the quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0369] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0370] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 11% by weight or more, and more preferably 12% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0371] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 28% by weight or less, and more preferably 26% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0372] The quantity of the oil phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 11% to 28% by weight, and more preferably from 12% to 26% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0373] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 65% by weight or more, preferably 70% by weight or more, and more preferably 74% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0374] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0375] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention can be from 65% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 74% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0376] The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a W / O emulsion, since ingredients (a1) and (a2) can function as an emulsifier. [Application, process and use]

[0377] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous material such as skin.

[0378] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for the treatment of keratinous material such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by being applied to the keratinous material.

[0379] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous material such as skin, preferably skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

[0380] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as skincare products, for the skin of the body and / or face and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0381] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, The composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form a cosmetic product.

[0382] The care product may be a lotion, a cream and the like.

[0383] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used as a skin care composition.

[0384] The present invention may also relate to a use of:

[0385] (al) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0386] (a2) at least one at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having a HLB value greater than 4;

[0387] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener and

[0388] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic

[0389] in a composition comprising:

[0390] (d) at least one oil; and

[0391] (e) of water,

[0392] in which

[0393] The quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55% by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0394] the composition does not comprise silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone,

[0395] in order to stabilize the composition

[0396] and / or

[0397] in order to cause a transformation in the texture of the composition when applied to a keratinous material such as skin, preferably at the beginning of the application, and / or to reduce the oily appearance of the keratinous material after application.

[0398] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (f) at least one powder.

[0399] The explanations concerning the ingredients (a) to (f) of the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those of the above use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0400] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples #1-3 and Comparative Examples #1-6 [Preparation]

[0401] The following compositions, in the form of an O / W emulsion, according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows: 1. Mixing the ingredients from rows A of Table 1 at 80-90 °C to form a uniform mixture of phase A; 2. Mixing the ingredients from rows B1 of Table 1 at 80-90 °C to form a uniform mixture of phase B1; 3. Cooling the uniform mixture of phase B1 to room temperature (25 °C); 4. Addition of the ingredients of Phase B2 to the uniform mixture of Phase Bl, followed by mixing with a turbine mixer to form a uniform mixture of Phase B; 5. Adding the uniform mixture of Phase B to the uniform mixture of Phase A, gradually using a propeller mixer to form a uniform phase (Phases A and B); and 6. Cooling of the phase uniformly to room temperature.

[0402] The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components indicated in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials.

[0403] [Tables 1] Phase e Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Co mp. 2 Ex. Co mp. 3 Ex. com p.4 Ex. com p. 5 Ex. com p. 6 A (a 1) Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate ** (HLB: 3.3) 0.55 0.55 0.85 0.9 - 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 (a 2) Diisostearate / polyhydroxystea rate / Poly glyceryl-4*2 sebacate (HL B: 5) 0.35 0.35 0.5 0.9 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 (d) Diisopropyl sebacate 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 12.8 (d) Squalane 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 8 (d) Caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 24 (b) Dextrin palmitate 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 - 0.7 0.7 0.7 BB 1 (c) Sclerote gum - 0.1 0.1 - - - - - - (c) Sclerote gum (and) xanthan gum (75:25) 0.08 - - 0.08 0.08 0.08 - - 0.08 Xanthan gum - - - - - - - 0.1 - Glycerin 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 Chlorphenesin 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Magnesium sulfate 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 (e) Water 74.0 2 72 71.5 5 74.0 2 74.0 2 74.7 2 74.1 74 40.4 2 B 2 (f) Zea Mays (maize) starch - 2 1.5 - - - - - - Silica - - 0.3 - - - - - - Cellulose - - 0,2 - - - - - - Refreshing sensation Very good not Very good not Very good not Very good not Very good not Very good not Very good not Very bad - not greasy sensation Good not Very good not Very good not Good not Good not Good not Good not Very bad , -vai se Stability Very good ne Very good ne Very good ne Bad -vai se Bad -vai se Very bad uvai se Bad -vai se Bad -vai se Very bad -vai se

[0404] 1: SY-Glycer CRS-75 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.)

[0405] 2: ISOLAN GPS (Evonik Industries AG) [Reviews] (Refreshing sensation)

[0406] Five professional panelists assessed the "water spray sensation" during the application of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6. Each panelist took each composition and applied it in a circular motion to their skin. The panelists assessed the water spray sensation during application and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0407] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (the sensation of water spray is clearly felt at the beginning of the application)

[0408] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (the sensation of water spray is felt at the beginning of the application)

[0409] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (the sensation of water spray is barely felt at the beginning of the application)

[0410] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (the sensation of water spraying is not felt at all at the beginning of the application)

[0411] The results are shown in Table 1. (Non-greasy feel)

[0412] Five professional panelists assessed the "non-greasy feel" after applying the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to their skin to assess the non-greasy feel after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0413] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (the greasy feel is not noticeable at all after application)

[0414] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (the oily feel is barely noticeable after application)

[0415] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (the greasy feel is noticeable after application)

[0416] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (the greasy feel is clearly noticeable after application)

[0417] The results are shown in Table 1. (Stability)

[0418] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 was poured into a glass bottle and kept under temperature change conditions at 4 °C, 25 °C, 37 °C and 45 °C for 2 months.

[0419] Temperature change cycle: a. maintaining the composition at 4 °C for 6 hours; b. increasing the temperature of the composition to 25 °C over a period from 6 a.m.; c. increasing the temperature of the composition to 37 °C over a period of 6 hours; d. increasing the temperature of the composition to 45 °C over a period of 6 hours; and e. decrease in the temperature of the composition to 4 °C.

[0420] Ten cycles were carried out and the defects in the composition were evaluated between each cycle. In particular, each composition was studied in terms of the degree of change in appearance (e.g., syneresis, separation and creaming), color (e.g., yellowing and browning) and odor (e.g., bad odor) of the composition, and evaluated according to the following criteria:

[0421] Very good: Almost the same conditions as in production.

[0422] Good: Few changes in appearance, color, and odor were observed.

[0423] Bad: Changes in appearance, color, and odor have been clearly observed.

[0424] Very bad: Changes in appearance, color and odor were clearly noticed.

[0425] The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)

[0426] As is clear from Table 1, the compositions according to the present invention (Examples 1 to 3) were able to provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application; non-greasy feel after application; and stability under temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of ingredients (a1), (a2), (b), and (c) in the presence of ingredients (d) and (e). Examples 2 and 3 show that the addition of ingredient (f) can further improve the non-greasy feel after application. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide, in particular, an excellent feel and stability over a long period, even under temperature changes.

[0427] Furthermore, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include ingredient (a2) (second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester), showed lower instability.

[0428] The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not include ingredient (al) (first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester), also showed lower stability.

[0429] The composition according to Comparative Example 3, which did not include ingredient (b) (lipophilic thickener), also showed lower stability.

[0430] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 4 and 5, which did not include ingredient (c) (a hydrophilic thickener selected from non-ionic polysaccharides), also showed lower stability. It should be noted that xanthan gum has carboxy groups and is therefore an anionic polysaccharide.

[0431] The composition according to Comparative Example 6, which includes a smaller amount of water, could not offer excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application; non-greasy feeling after application; and stability in the event of temperature changes for 2 months.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a1) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less; (a2) at least one second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides; (d) at least one oil; and (e) water, wherein the amount of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55% by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition does not comprise silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl polymeric esters, preferably esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, and more preferably from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl polymeric esters, preferably esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii-2) at least one saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acid polycondensate, (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (iv) at least one linear aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or branched, and more preferably polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the difference between the HLB values ​​of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) lipophilic thickener is selected from non-wax lipophilic thickeners, preferably non-wax organic lipophilic thickeners, and more preferably fatty acid dextrin esters, such as dextrin palmitate.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) hydrophilic thickener is selected from non-ionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms and preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils is 0.85 or more, preferably 0.90 or more, and more preferably 0.95 or more.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one powder.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.01% to 15% by weight of (a1) at least one first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value of 4 or less; 0.01% to 15% by weight of (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value greater than 4; 0.01% to 20% by weight of (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; 0.001% to 10% by weight of (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides; 0.1% to 30% by weight of (d) at least one oil; and more than 50% by weight (e) of water, in which the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably

10. less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous material such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous material.