Improvements in or relating to a textile element

Abstract

A method of forming a textile element 1 for use as a structural support component in a garment includes providing a fabric strip 10 having a fold 14 between its outer edges 12, the strip having a high

Description

This invention relates to a method of forming a textile element for use as a structural support component in a garment. The invention also relates to a textile element and to a supportive garment incorporating such a textile element. It is often necessary or desirable for a textile to have a support or strengthening functionality. For example, a textile garment may be required to provide support to a portion of the wearer's body (such as a bra providing support to a wearer's breasts). It is also often necessary for such support or strengthening functionality to define a particular shape within the textile, especially a non-linear shape. For example, it is desirable to have a support portion within a textile garment that is shaped in accordance with a body part for which it is providing support (e.g. under the breasts or buttocks in an undergarment). There are also non-garment related fabrics which may require a support or strengthening functionality defining a particular shape, such as "walls" or a door of a tent. According to a first aspect of the invention there is provided a method of forming a textile element for use as a structural support component in a garment, the method comprising the steps of: providing a fabric strip having a fold between its outer edges, wherein the fabric strip includes a higher modulus of elasticity at each of the outer edges than at the fold resulting in a fabric strip that is looser at its outer edges than therebetween and so is biased to curl at its outer edges, the fabric strip further including a plush surface positioned between at least one of the outer edges and the fold; preconditioning the fabric strip to temporarily flatten the fabric strip under tension; while the fabric strip is flattened under tension, applying a plastics coating to the plush surface of the fabric strip so that the plastics coating penetrates the plush surface; folding the fabric strip about the fold to create a folded edge and an opposing open edge of the folded fabric strip, the folding step being carried out before allowing the plastics coating to rigidify so as to sandwich the plastics coating between the plush surface and an opposing surface of the fabric strip; and after the folding step, releasing the tension being applied to the fabric strip to create a folded fabric strip that includes a higher modulus of elasticity at the open edge than at the folded edge and so is biased to curl around its folded edge. The fabric strip having the variance of modulus of elasticity as described above results in a fabric strip that is looser at its edges than through the middle (or wherever the fold is positioned between the outer edges). To put another way, the fabric strip exhibits higher tension at the middle (or wherever the fold is positioned between the outer edges) and lower tension at the outer edges. This results in a fabric strip that slightly curls at its outer edges when in its relaxed state (which may be described as a "pigtail" or "curly" fabric). It will be understood from the wording above that the configuration of the fabric strip is such that it can be temporarily flattened out when tension is applied (which is applied during at least the coating step), but that it is naturally biased back to its curly state when the tension is removed. Such a fabric results in a textile element which is easier to manipulate into a desired shape for use in a textile. In this regard, because of the lower modulus of elasticity at the edges (i.e. looser at the edges) and a higher modulus of elasticity at the fold (i.e. tighter in the middle), once the fabric strip has been folded and tension is released, the resulting textile element is biased to curl around the folded edge. That is to say, the higher tension at the folded edge and lower tension at the open edge results in the textile element having a curl or wave along its length. This biasing can be used to help shape the textile element and makes it easier to handle for further processing steps to incorporate it into a textile. For example, where the textile element is required to be curved (e.g. it is intended to be used as a support under a wearer's breasts), the textile element can be readily coiled to form a curved shape with the natural curl in the textile element helping to form that curve with the folded edge on the inside of the curve. Moreover, the resulting textile element having a bias to curl around the folded edge means the when a curve or coil is formed with the textile element, the folded edge is on the inside and the open edge is on the outside of that curve / coil. This is against the normal arrangement of a typical folded textile in which the folded edge would usually be on the outside and the open edge would be on the inside for the purpose of visual appeal. For example, in a folded cuff or sleeve, the folded edge would be showing on the outside while the open edge would be on the inside. It will be understood that the "folded edge" is the edge at which the fold of the fabric strip is positioned once the fabric strip has been folded, and that the "open edge" is the opposite edge at which the outer edges of the fabric strip meet when the fabric strip is folded. References to a plush surface herein are intended to refer to a fabric surface having a long, soft nap or raised pile. The provision of a plush surface allows a molten plastics material to absorb and penetrate into the fabric strip and encase at least surface yarns of the plush surface. This means that, once the plastics coating is allowed to rigidify, the surface yarns of the plush surface become embedded in the plastics coating and form a composite structure at the juncture between the plastics coating and the plush surface. Penetration of the plastics coating into the plush surface and the formation of a composite structure in which yarns are embedded in the plastics coating greatly increases the strength and flexibility of the resultant textile element over and above a textile element formed from a plastics material applied to a non-plush surface. This is because a molten plastics material cannot penetrate into a non-plush surface of a textile and merely tacks itself to the non-plush surface. Accordingly the strength and flexibility of such a textile element is determined solely by the strength and flexibility of the plastics material. Consequently, whilst use of the plastics material will likely result in a relatively hard textile element, the textile element will be prone to breakage as a result of the brittleness of the plastics material. In contrast, the formation of a composite structure in which yarns are embedded in the plastics material reduces the brittleness of the resultant textile element and results in a more flexible structure that is less prone to breakages. It will be appreciated that the flexibility of the resultant textile element is determined by the extent to which the plastics coating penetrates the plush surface. A structural support component applies to any textile which requires support or strengthening functionality. For example, a textile may need to hold a required shape and thus requires some form of support to form that shape, or a textile may need strengthening in particular areas or sections. The supportive textile may be a garment such as a bra, corset, bustier, top, dress, briefs or boxers, hood, swimwear, or it may be a face mask. Moreover, the one or more structural support components may take any shape to provide the required support or strengthening functionality, for example they may be straight or curved or a combination of two. It will be understood that the plastics coating would be (at some point after the folding step) allowed to rigidify so as to embed at least surface yarns of the plush surface in the plastics coating and thereby form a composite structure at the juncture between the plastics coating and the plush surface. It will be understood that the skilled person would readily understand how to create a fabric strip that has a higher modulus of elasticity at each of the outer edges than at the fold resulting in a fabric strip that is looser at its outer edges than therebetween and so is biased to curl at its outer edges. Examples of how this might be achieve are: a fabric strip having a higher concentration of elastomeric yarns at each outer edge than at the fold, the fabric strip having a tighter knit structure at the fold than at each outer edge, the fabric strip having a higher yarn count or higher thickness of yarn at the fold than at each outer edge. In this regard, the higher concentration of elastomeric yarns at each outer edge provides more stretch and less tension at each outer edge compared to the lower concentration of elastomeric yarns at the fold providing less stretch and more tension. The tighter knit structure at the fold (and therefore a looser knit structure at each outer edge) creates less tension at each outer edge compared to the fold. The higher yarn count or higher thickness of yarn at the fold (and therefore a lower yarn count or lower thickness of yarn at each outer edge) creates less tension at each outer edge compared to the fold. These are non-exhaustive examples of how to achieve the desired variance of modulus of elasticity through the fabric strip. It will be appreciated that these arrangements may be used alone or in combination with each other or other known ways to form the fabric strip to have the desired variance of modulus of elasticity. Preferably, tension is applied to the fabric strip to temporarily flatten the fabric strip additionally during at least the folding step. Applying a tension throughout several steps of the method means that the fabric strip is easier to handle throughout the manufacturing process. The preconditioning step may include applying heat to the fabric strip. Applying heat helps to flatten out the fabric strip and remove unwanted humidity and / or moisture from the fabric strip, which makes the fabric strip easier to handle throughout the manufacturing process. Preferably, the step of applying the plastics coating to the plush surface includes defining a footprint on the plush surface upon application of the coating that is substantially unchanged upon rigldlfylng of the coating. By applying the plastics coating in a footprint that is substantially unchanged upon rigidifying means that the coating is controlled so as to prevent unwanted leakage of the plastics material outside of the set boundaries of the desired plastics coating footprint. The plastics coating is applied in a profile and shape that matches (or substantially matches) that of the resulting rigidified coating, e.g. a wide and low profile shape. This means that the plastics coating embeds and begins to adhere into the plush surface straight away and creates the desired footprint without any (or minimal) leakage. This also helps to prevent a high concentration of plastics material forming at the edges, which results in hard edges in the rigidified coating. This tends to occur where the plastics coating is formed as a bead and is then pressed down to form the desired footprint of plastics coating. The prevention of leakage is particularly important to prevent the rigidified coating forming too close to the outer edges and the fold of the fabric strip, which would result in a textile element with a hard edge. Instead, controlling the footprint of the plastics coating to prevent it being positioned too close to those edges results in a textile element that has a soft edge which is easier to bend and shape the textile element along those edges. It also provides better comfort to a wearer if the textile element is being used in a garment. Preferably, the plastics coating is applied and rigidified at a position inboard of the fold so as to create a plastics free portion at the fold of the fabric strip. Moreover, the plastics coating may be applied and rigidified inboard of the adjacent edge of the fabric strip so as to create a plastics free portion at that outer edge of the fabric strip. As explained above, positioning the plastics coating in this manner provides a soft edge at the fold and / or each of the outer edges, which makes the textile element easier to bend or coil around that edge and provides comfort to a wearer. Optionally, the plush surface is present at either side of the fold of the fabric strip and the plastics coating is applied onto the plush surfaces on either side of the fold of the fabric strip. As such, two runs of plastics coatings are applied to the fabric strip at either side of the fold, which are then brought together during the folding step. This results in a thicker plastics coating and higher structural reliability of the rigidified coating. By effectively splitting the total amount of desired plastics coating between the two sides of the fold, it can be easier to control the plastics coating to prevent leakage. Moreover, curing time may be quicker. The method may further include the step of coiling the fabric strip before allowing the plastics coating to rigidify so as to form the fabric strip into a helical coil structure having a predetermined diameter, wherein coiling the fabric strip includes coiling with the folded edge of the fabric strip defining the inside diameter of the coiled fabric strip. Such an arrangement means that a curved or coiled textile element with a predetermined diameter can be formed, which may then be cut into discrete textile element pieces. As mentioned previously, the textile element is biased to curve around the folded edge, and so by coiling the textile element with the folded edge being on the inner diameter allows the natural curl in the textile element to help form a robust coiled or curved textile element. In other words, the textile element wants to stay in the coiled or curved shape because it was already biased In that direction. In an embodiment of the invention, the step of providing a fabric strip may further include: including a physical barrier at only one edge of the plush surface of the fabric strip to restrict the flow of plastics coating when applied to the plush surface. Preferably, the physical barrier is positioned at an outer edge of the plush surface adjacent to the outer edge of the fabric strip. The inclusion of a physical barrier, such as a rib, helps to control the molten plastics coating and prevent it from leaking. The physical barrier will create a hard edge which may not be desired in the textile element because it makes it difficult to bend or coil the textile element around that edge. It also may not be desired because the textile element is intended to be used in a garment in which comfort to the wearer is important. Therefore, by providing the physical barrier at only one edge of the plush surface, the other edge of the plush surface is free from any physical barrier and therefore creates a soft edge at that side of the textile element. In embodiments where the textile element is going to be coiled or bent around the folded edge (especially since the textile element is biased to curve around such folded edge), then it is preferable to position the physical barrier at the outer edge of the plush surface (i.e. not adjacent to the fold). This way, the hard edge will be at the open edge of the textile element once the fabric strip is folded, which keeps the folded (inner) edge soft and easier to bend / coil. Optionally, the method further including the steps of: after the folding step, removing a section of the fabric strip to create first and second textile element portions on either side of the removed section; and bringing the first and second textile element portions towards one another to change the configuration of the first and second textile element portions relative to one another thereby creating a desired shape of textile element. Preferably the step of removing a section of the fabric strip includes removing the section from the open edge of the fabric strip. More preferably, the step of removing a section of the fabric strip is performed after a rigidifying step which allows the plastics coating to rigidify. Removing a section of the fabric strip and bringing the resulting first and second textile element portions towards one another allows a change in configuration, i.e. shape, of the textile element. In this way, a desired shape of the textile element can be achieved using a single, continuous piece of a textile element. This Is In contrast to having to use more than one textile element which each have to be formed into the desired (overall) shape. An example is the "W" shape of an underwire for a bra, which is typically formed using two separate curved textile elements. By removing a section of the fabric strip and bringing the resulting textile element portions towards one another, a continuous "W" shaped underwire can be created. This is especially the case when combined with the aspects provided above in relation to curving and coiling the fabric strip after folding it. It will be understood that removing a section of the fabric strip may include removing a section of fabric only or may Include removing a section of fabric and composite structure (i.e. the rigidified plastics coating). The method may further include the steps of: providing an adhesive tape adhered to an outer surface of the fabric strip so as to present an adhesive layer facing outwardly from the outer surface of the fabric strip once the fabric strip has been folded; after the folding step, locating the folded fabric strip in a correspondingly shaped aperture formed in a jig so that the adhesive layer is exposed; positioning a textile carrier element relative to the folded fabric strip so as to cover the adhesive layer on the folded fabric strip in a predetermined configuration; applying heat and pressure to the aligned textile carrier element and the folded fabric strip so as to adhere the textile carrier element to the fabric strip; and forming the adhered textile carrier element and folded fabric strip into a supportive textile. Such a method allows the textile element to be correctly positioned and adhered to a textile carrier which can then be further secured to a textile that provides a supportive functionality. Optionally, the method further includes the step of applying a multi-ply adhesive tape simultaneously with one or more of the steps of the method to an outer surface of the fabric strip, the tape having first and second layers of adhesive on opposing sides of a barrier layer, with the first layer of adhesive in face to face contact with the outer surface of the fabric strip so that the adhesive tape is secured to and extends longitudinally along an outer surface of the fabric strip once it is folded with the second layer of adhesive facing outwardly from the outer surface of the fabric strip. The provision of an adhesive tape allows the attachment of the resultant textile garment to a carrier element or directly to a garment. The use of a multi-ply adhesive tape reduces the amount of adhesive that might otherwise be required to both secure the adhesive tape to the fabric strip and, subsequently, to another element such as a textile carrier element or other textile such as a garment if a single ply adhesive tape was used. In circumstances where a single ply adhesive tape is used, the application of heat and / or pressure over a period of time during performance of the method of forming the textile element may result in the full thickness of the adhesive layer penetrating the textile surface of the fabric strip. As a result, an inadequate amount of adhesive might be left on the outer surface of the fabric strip for subsequent adhesion of the resultant textile element to a textile carrier element or other textile. The use of a multi-ply adhesive tape having an intervening barrier layer located between first and second layers allows the use of the same amount of adhesive with the barrier layer preventing the second layer of adhesive penetrating the textile surface of the fabric strip. As a result, it Is possible to ensure that an adequate amount of adhesive is left on the outer surface of the fabric strip for subsequent adhesion of the resultant textile element to a textile carrier element or other textile. According to a second embodiment of the invention there is provided an apparatus for forming a textile element for use as a structural support component in a garment, the apparatus comprising: a preconditioning unit configured to temporality flatten a fabric strip under tension, the fabric strip having a fold between its outer edges, wherein the fabric strip includes a higher modulus of elasticity at each of the outer edges than at the fold resulting in a fabric strip that is looser at its outer edges than therebetween and so is biased to curl at its outer edges, the fabric strip further including a plush surface positioned between at least one of the outer edges and the fold; an applicator for applying a plastics coating to the plush surface of the fabric strip while the fabric strip is flattened under tension so that the plastics coating penetrates the plush surface and results in a composite structure at the juncture between the plastics coating and the plush surface upon the plastics coating rigidlfying; a folding mechanism configured to fold the fabric strip about the fold to create a folded edge and an opposing open edge of the folded fabric strip, the folding step being carried out before allowing the plastics coating to rigidify so as to sandwich the plastics coating between the plush surface and an opposing surface of the fabric strip; a releasing mechanism configured to release the tension being applied to the fabric strip after the folding step to create a folded fabric strip that includes a higher modulus of elasticity at the open edge than at the folded edge and so is biased to curl around its folded edge. The features and advantages of the first embodiment of the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the second embodiment of the invention. According to the third embodiment of the invention there is provided a textile element for use as a structural support component in a garment, the textile element comprising a fabric strip having a plush surface and a plastics coating applied to the plush surface so that at least surface yarns of the plush surface are embedded in the plastics coating and form a composite structure at the juncture between the plastics coating and the plush surface, wherein the fabric is folded about a fold so as to sandwich the plastics coating between the plush surface and an opposing surface of the fabric strip, the folded fabric strip creating a folded edge and an opposing open edge, the fabric strip including a higher modulus of elasticity at each of its outer edges than at its fold resulting in a folded fabric strip that is looser at the open edge than at the folded edge and so is biased to curl around its folded edge. The features and advantages of the first embodiment of the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the third embodiment of the invention. According to a fourth embodiment of the invention there is provided a supportive garment comprising a garment fabric and a textile element as described hereinabove secured to the garment fabric so as to create a supporting portion of the garment. The features and advantages of the first embodiment of the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the fourth embodiment of the invention. Preferred embodiments of the invention will now be described, by way of non-limiting examples, with reference to the accompanying drawings in which: Figure 1 shows a fabric strip according to the prior art (left-hand side) and a fabric strip for forming a textile element in a relaxed state according to an embodiment of the invention (right-hand side); Figures 2a and 2b show the fabric strip of Figure 1 in a flattened state; Figures 2c and 2d show the fabric strip of Figures 2a and 2b in a folded configuration; Figure 3 shows a folded fabric strip according to another embodiment of the invention; Figures 4a to 4c show some of the steps of forming a textile element according to the invention, in particular: Figure 4a shows step of applying a plastics coating to the fabric strip; Figure 4b shows the step of folding the fabric strip; Figure 4c shows tension being applied to the folded fabric strip; Figure 4d shows the step of coiling the textile element; Figures 5a and 5b show a textile element being formed into a continuous "W" shape for an underwire for a bra according to another embodiment of the invention; Figures 6a and 6b show the textile element being secured to a textile carrier according to a further embodiment of the invention; Figures 7a and 7b show a multiply adhesive tape that may be applied to the textile element of the invention; Figure 1 shows, on the left-hand side, a fabric strip F according to the prior art in its relaxed state. This fabric strip F is a typical fabric strip that might be used to form a textile element and / or to part of a garment. The fabric strip F is substantially flat in nature in that it does not curl or is otherwise distorted at the edges. Figure 1 also shows, on the right-hand side, a fabric strip 10 for forming a textile element 1 according to an embodiment of the invention. The fabric strip 10 is in its relaxed state before it is put through the method of forming the textile element, in which it will be put under tension (as described in more detail below). The fabric strip 10 has outer edges 12 and a fold 14, which is described further below in reference to Figures 2a to 2d. As can be seen, in the relaxed state, the fabric strip 10 exhibits a curl 15 at its outer edges 12. It will be appreciated that Figure 1 is a schematic representation of the fabric strip 10 and may not show the detail of the "curl". This is because the fabric strip 10 includes a higher modulus of elasticity at its outer edges 12 than at the fold such that fabric strip 10 exhibits more stretch at each of the outer edges 12 than at the fold 14. In other words, there is a higher degree of tension in fabric strip 10 at the fold 14 compared to each of the outer edges 12. This means that the fabric strip 10 is looser in its configuration at its edges 12 and tighter at the fold 14, which results in a curl 15 being formed along its edges 12. The fabric strip 10 is, therefore, biased to curl 15 in this manner, which is what Is seen when it is in Its relaxed state. The fabric strip 10 may be referred to as a "curly" or "pigtail" fabric. It will be appreciated that Figure 1 is a schematic representation of the fabric strip 10 and may not show the exact detail of the "curl". The fabric strip 10 is able to be flattened out (i.e. so that the curled edges 15 lay flat) temporality when it is put under tension. When that tension is removed, the fabric strip 10 will again naturally bias to its curly state. A skilled person would understand how to configure a fabric strip to exhibit such characteristics, and the mechanics of how to achieve such a fabric strip are not the focus of this invention. In this regard, in one embodiment, the fabric strip 10 may include a higher concentration of elastomeric yarns at each of its outer edges 12 than at the fold 14. Such an arrangement provides more stretch at the outer edges 12 so as to help create less tension at the outer edges 12. The fabric strip 10 may instead (or additionally) be created with looser knit structures at the edges compared to at the fold so as to achieve the desired variance in tension, and / or the use of lower thicknesses or count of yarns at the edges compared to at the fold. Moving onto Figures 2a to 2d, in this embodiment, the fold 14 is located centrally between the outer edges 12 of the fabric strip 10. The fold 14 may instead be off centre and may be closer to one of the outer edges 12 than the other. The fabric strip 10 further includes two plush surfaces 16 extending lengthwise along the fabric strip 10 on either side of the fold 14. Each of the plush surfaces 16 is positioned Inboard from the fold 14 so as to leave a gap 18 between the plush surfaces 16 and the fold 14. In this embodiment, each of the plush surfaces 16 is also positioned inboard from their adjacent outer edge 12 of the fabric strip 10 so as to leave a gap 20 between each plush surface 16 and the outer edge 12. In other embodiments, there may be a single plush surface 16 extending along the length of the fabric strip 10. The single plush surface 16 may be positioned between the fold 14 and an outer edge 12 of the fabric strip 10, or it may instead be formed over the fold 14. There may be no or very little gap between the plush surface 16 and the outer edge(s) 12 of the fabric strip 10. So as to create the plush surface 16, which has a long, soft nap or raised pile, the fabric strip 10 is a woven structure in which the plush surface 16 is created by the use of textile yarns (not shown) in the woven structure at the plush surface 16. The plush surface 16 may be formed in another way, such as reducing the number and / or thickness of weft yarns when compared to the number and / or thickness of warp yarns in the woven structure at the plush surface 16, or by arranging warp yarns to form floating warp yarns passing over two or more weft yarns at a time so as to increase exposure of the warp yarns at the plush surface 16. In other embodiments the fabric strip 10 may have a knitted structure. The fabric strip 10 further includes a plastics coating 22 that extends lengthwise along each of the plush surfaces 16 of the fabric strip 10. The plastics coating 22 may be a continuous length of coating on the plush surface(s) 16, or instead may include breaks in the coating 22, which may define a desired length of fabric strip 10 to be cut to form discrete textile elements 1. Moreover, the or each of the plush surfaces 16 may include corresponding breaks. The plastics coating 22 is applied to the plush surface 16 by extruding molten plastics material along the plush surface 16 of the fabric strip 10. The viscosity of the molten plastics material is chosen so as to maximise the absorption and penetration of the molten plastics material into the plush surface 16. The plastics coating 22 is controlled so as to define a footprint of plastics coating 22 on the plush surface 16. Given that the plush surface 16 is positioned inboard from the fold 14 in this embodiment, the plastic coating footprint is also positioned inboard such that the gap 18 creates a plastics free portion 18 at the fold 14 of the fabric strip 10. In a similar manner, the plastics coating footprint is positioned inboard from each of the outer edges 12 of the fabric strip 10 so that the gap 20 creates plastics free portions 20 at the outer edges 12 of the fabric strip 10. These plastic free portions 18, 20 can be used to sew the resulting textile element 1 to another textile or directly onto a garment. Further details on the application of the plastics coating 22 are provided below in relation to Figure 4a. The provision of a plush surface 16 on the fabric strip 10 means that, during application of the plastics coating 22, the molten plastics material absorbs and penetrates into the plush surface 16 and coats the yarns of the plush surface 16. Once the plastics coating 22 is allowed to rigidify, the yarns of the plush surface 16 become embedded in the plastics coating 22 and form a composite structure at the juncture J between the plastics coating 22 and the plush surface 16. Penetration of the plastics coating 22 into the plush surface 16 and the formation of a composite structure in which the yarns embed in the plastics coating 22 increases the strength and flexibility of the textile element 1 over and above a textile element formed from a plastics material applied to a non-plush surface. Optionally, the plastics material is a thermoplastic material. A thermoplastic material has the advantage of being able to the recycled, which is particularly important for improving the environmental aspects of the textile element 1, and thus the recyclability of the overall textile / garment into which the textile element 1 may be incorporated. In many cases, for example where the textile element 1 Is being used as underwire for a brassiere, the supportive portion may be the only portion of the garment which is traditionally non-recyclable. Therefore, using a thermoplastic coating means that the thermoplastic material can be heated and remoulded so as to be turned into new, usable products once the textile had reached the end of its use, thus providing a recyclable textile product. It will be understood that a thermoplastic coating would be chosen to have suitable characteristics for the intended purpose of the textile element 1. For example, if the textile element 1 is intended to be used in a garment (e.g. a brassiere), then a thermoplastic coating with suitably high melting / moulding temperature would be chosen so that the garment can withstand machine washing without distorting or melting the thermoplastic material. The thermoplastic coating may be a polyamide, or more preferably a polyester. The thermoplastic coating may be a biodegradable thermoplastic, e.g. thermoplastic starch (TPS), so as to further enhance the sustainability of the textile element 1. In other embodiments, a material other than a thermoplastic may be used. Other materials, such as thermosetting plastic materials or adhesives or epoxy resins for example, could be used to form a coating on the plush surface 16 of the fabric strip 10. Bio-based and biodegradable plastics materials may be used so as to enhance the sustainability of the textile element 1. It will be evident to the skilled person what materials might be chosen to achieve the required penetration into the plush surface 16 on application of the coating 22 and formation of the required composite at the juncture J between the plush surface 16 and the coating 22. Materials exhibiting an appropriate shore d hardness (e.g. approximately 50 to 80) once allowed to cool or allowed to cure so as to rigidity would be particularly suitable. Accordingly, any references herein to thermoplastic coating should be considered interchangeable with references, for example, to a thermosetting plastic coating. In embodiments where a thermosetting plastic material is used, curing of the material once it is applied may be achieved through the application of heat or through a chemical reaction (two-part epoxy, for example) or through irradiation (UV radiation or electron beam processing, for example). Moreover, It will be understood that some thermosetting plastic materials may be heated after they have been rigidified so as to exhibit limited remoulding capabilities that may be utilised during manufacture, e.g. to help shape or bend the thermosetting plastic material onto a desired textile or garment. As such, the thermosetting plastic material may be chosen so that It has some (albeit, limited) thermoplastic properties. Furthermore, a mixture or blend of plastics materials, e.g. a blend of thermoplastic and thermosetting materials, may be used in the coating. In the embodiment shown, the fabric strip 10 is flocked on an opposite surface 24 of the fabric strip 10 to the plastics coating 22. The opposite surface 24 will be the outer surface 24 of the fabric strip 10 once folded. The flocking 26 extends lengthwise along the fabric strip 10 and extends across half the width of the opposite (outer) surface 24 of the fabric strip 10. The inclusion of such flocking 26 prevents exposure of the plastics coating 22 on the opposite surface of the fabric strip 10, especially on the surface which might be next to a wearer's skin. In other embodiments, the fabric strip 10 may include a more densely woven backing to the plush surface 16 to prevent such exposure. The flocking 26 (or densely woven backing) may extend across the full width of the opposite surface 24 of the fabric strip 10. The fabric strip 10 may additional or instead include a plush or otherwise soft surface on the opposite surface 24 of the fabric strip 10 so as to provide a soft surface on the outside of the resulting textile element 1 (which may be next to a wearer's skin). As can be seen in Figures 2c and 2d, the fabric strip 10 is folded about the fold 14 which creates a folded edge 28 and an opposing open edge 30 of the fabric strip 10 (the open edge 30 being where the two outer edges 12 of the fabric strip 10 meet). Such a folding step is carried out before allowing the plastics coating 22 to rigidify and this sandwiches the plastics coating 22 on either side of the fold 14 between the plush surfaces 16. Preferably, the fabric strip 10 is folded when the plastics coating 22 has cooled enough to exhibit a soft and tacky surface that will adhere to the opposing surface of the fabric strip 10 or the opposing run of plastics coating 22 on the fabric strip 10. Once folded, the plastics coating 22 is rigidified so as to embed the surface yarns of the plush surface 16 in the plastics coating, as described earlier. The plastics coating 22 may be rigidified by any suitable means, as described earlier (e.g. cured, cooled, heated). This forms a textile element 1 according to the Invention. The textile element 1 may be used in a textile or, specifically, a garment so as to provide structural support to that textile or garment. The textile element 1 may be applied to the textile / garment when it is in its fully rigidified state or party rigidified state. Figure 3 shows a similar textile element 1' as that shown in Figures 2a to 2d, and the same features share reference numerals. The textile element 1' differs in that it includes a physical barrier, in the form of a pair of ribs 32, on the inner surfaces of the folded fabric strip 10. The ribs 32 are located along one edge of the plush surface 16 adjacent to each of the outer edges 12 of the fabric strip 10, and abut one another when the fabric strip 10 is folded. The ribs 32 help to constrain the flow of the plastics coating 22 when it is applied to the plush surface 16 so as to prevent unwanted leakage of the plastics coating 22. The fabric strip 10 may only include one rib 32 located along an edge of only one of the plush surfaces 16. It is preferable that the ribs 32 are located along the outer edge of the or each plush surface 16 so that the folded edge 28 of the textile element 1' is free from any physical barriers such as ribs 32. Nevertheless, there may be embodiments In which the ribs 32 are located at the inner edge of the plush surface 16 adjacent to the fold 14 of the fabric strip 10. In such embodiments, the plush surface 16 (and therefore the plastics coating 22) may be positioned so as to leave a large gap 18 between the coating 22 and the fold 14 so that ability of the textile element 1' to be shaped or otherwise manipulated at its folded edge 28 is not impacted by the ribs 32. Figures 4a to 4d illustrate parts of the method and apparatus for forming the textile element 1 according to the invention. Although not shown in the figures, the curled edges 15 of the relaxed fabric strip 10 are flattened temporarily under tension in a preconditioning step of the method before the plastics coating 22 is applied. The preconditioning step may include the application of heat to the fabric strip 10 by a preconditioning unit (not shown). The preconditioning step also preferably flattens the fabric strip 10 under tension. Figure 4a shows the application of the plastics coating 22, by an applicator 100, onto the two lengths of plush surfaces 16 that are positioned on either side of the fold 14 of the fabric strip 10. The fabric strip 10 is maintained in the flattened state while the plastics coating 22 is being applied. In this embodiment, the plastics coating 22 defines a footprint of plastics coating 22 upon application of the coating 22 that is substantially unchanged upon rigidifying of the coating 22. In other words, the plastics coating 22 is applied in a shape and profile that substantially matches that of the rigidified coating 22. The profile of the plastics coating 22 is wide and low, and is not compressed during the method to flatten (and therefore widen) its shape. The applicator 100 is formed so as to apply the plastics coating 22 in the desired footprint. Moreover, the viscosity and other characteristics of the plastics coating 22 may be chosen to aid in maintaining the same footprint upon application through to rigidification. Figure 4b illustrates the fabric strip 10 being folded via a folding mechanism 102 so as to create a folded fabric strip 10. This step is carried out before the plastics coating 22 is fully rigidified. The folding mechanism 102 in this embodiment is a V- or U-shaped channel 104 that has an increasingly narrow space between the opposing surfaces of the channel 104 from its entrance 106 to its exit 108. The channel 104 receives the fabric strip 10 at its entrance 106 and the two opposing surfaces of the channel 104 begin to fold the fabric strip 10. The fabric strip 10 is folded further as it moves along the channel 104 towards the exit 108. The folding mechanism 102 also includes guides 110 at the entrance 106 to help guide the fabric strip 10 into the channel 104. The folding mechanism 102 may take any other suitable form. The fabric strip 10 is passed through or under a series of pins 112 which help to keep the fabric strip 10 in its folded configuration and to apply a constant pressure to maintain the flattened state of the folded fabric strip 10. The folded fabric strip 10 is passed under the pins 112 and tension is applied between the pins 112 and a surface 114. Although two pins 112 are shown, there may be more. The folded fabric strip 10, i.e. the textile element 1, may be shaped by coiling it around a cylindrical or spiral form before the plastics coating 22 is rigidified. This results in a coiled textile element 1", as shown In Figure 4d. The folded fabric strip 10 may be fed into a screw thread 142 provided about the outer circumference of a cylinder 144 or rod. The step of feeding the fabric strip 10 into the screw thread 142 may be achieved by rotating the cylinder 144 (indicated by arrow "a") so as to rotate the screw thread 142, and thus force the fabric strip 10 around and along it (indicated by arrow "b"), defining a helical coil structure. Alternatively, the step of feeding the fabric strip 10 Into the screw thread may be achieved through the use of a belt arranged around the mould and driven about the mould so as to drive the fabric strip into the screw thread. The plastics coating 22 may rigidify whilst the fabric strip 10 is held in a helical coil shape so as to set the fabric strip 10 in that shape and allow the fabric strip 10 to retain a helical coil shape when removed from the screw thread. Such an approach is advantageous as it allows the continuous production of a coiled textile element 1". To assist in the formation of a helical coll structure, the mould may be heated so as to heat the fabric strip 10 and plastics coating 22 before allowing the fabric strip 10 and plastics coating 22 to rigidify so as to set the fabric strip 10 in the helical coil structure. Where the colling of the fabric strip 10 is achieved by using a screw thread, the diameter of the screw thread will define the diameter of the circles or coils In the resulting helical coil structure. Thus, if the desired diameter of each circle or coil In the helical coil structure is 10cm or 15cm or 20cm or 25cm or 30cm or 35cm or 40cm or 45cm or 50cm, then a screw thread having a diameter of 10cm or 15cm or 20cm or 25cm or 30cm or 35cm or 40cm or 45cm or 50cm, respectively, must be used. The production of a helical coil structure is particularly advantageous in that it permits large quantities of textile element to be manufactured in a continuous process. The resulting helical coll structure is also a convenient size and shape for storage, packaging and transportation. In this embodiment, the folded fabric strip 10 is coiled with the folded edge 28 of the fabric strip 10 defining the inside diameter of the coiled fabric strip 10. As explained previously, the configuration of the fabric strip 10 means that it is more pliable to be coiled in this manner because the open edge 30 (which is formed of the two outer edges 12 of the fabric strip 10) has a looser structure, which results in a higher degree of freedom for the open edge 30 to be coiled as the outside diameter of the coiled fabric strip 10. Whereas, the tighter folded edge 28 is more suited to be coiled as the inner diameter of the coiled fabric strip 10. Therefore, the textile element 1 is easily coiled and manipulated into a desired curved or coiled shape. Moreover, after coiling, the textile element 1 is more likely to stay in that coiled shape. Figures 5a and 5b illustrate further steps that can be taken to reshape the coiled textile element 1". The coiled textile element 1" has been cut to a desired size, as shown in Figure 5a. As also shown in Figure 5a, a section 150 of the textile element 1" Is removed from the open edge 30 of the folded fabric strip 10 which creates first and second textile element portions 152, 154 on either side of the removed section 150. The removed section 150 is triangular in shape and is removed from the open edge 30 side of the textile element 1". The removed section 150 includes removing a section from the plastics free portion 20 and from the rigidified plastics coating 22. The section 150 also cut through to a portion of the plastics free portion 18 at the folded edge 28. Instead, the section 150 may be smaller such that it is only removed from the plastics free portion 20 at the open edge 30, or only from the plastics free portion 20 at the open edge 30 and the rigidified plastics coating 22. Next, as shown in Figure 5b, the first and second textile element portions 152, 154 are brought into alignment with one another at the removed section 150. In this way, the plastics free portion 18 at the folded edge 28 acts as a hinge. The cutting of the removed section 150 may be considered to be a similar process to mitring (e.g. a "mitre cut"). This creates a "W" shaped textile element 1"' that is typically used for providing support for a wearer's breast, e.g. in a bra. The apex 156 of the "W" shape that is created when the textile element portions 152, 154 are brought into alignment is formed at the folded edge 28 of the textile element 1'". As described earlier, the folded edge 28 is free from any physical barriers (or ribs 32), which provides a soft edge at the folded edge 28. Moreover, the presence of the plastics free portion 18 at the folded edge 28 also helps to provide a soft edge and the width of the plastics free portion 18 can be chosen depending on how "soft" the edge is to be. As can be appreciated, the apex 156 of the "W" shaped textile element 1"' when used to support a wearer's breasts, e.g. In a bra, can dig into a wearer's skin and cause discomfort, and so it is important that the textile element 1'" is created to have a soft edge at this point. Moreover, instead of the "W" shaped textile element 1'" being formed by two discrete curved elements (which is typically the case for bra underwires / supports), it is formed by a single element. It will be appreciated that different angles of the removed section 150 can be selected so as to influence the resulting shape of the textile element. For example, shaping a more severe angle or curve in the textile element can be achieved by removing a wider triangle section, whereas a less severe angle or curve In the textile element can be achieved by removing a narrow triangle section. Moreover, the removed section 150 may take any other suitable shape. In other embodiments, the section 150 may be removed from the folded edge 28. Moreover, the section 150 may be removed from a textile element 1 that has not been coiled, i.e. it may be a substantially straight piece of textile element. The first and second textile element portions 152, 154 may not be brought fully into contact with one another. They may instead be brought towards one another but stop short of contacting one another. It will be appreciated that the distance between the first and second textile element portions 152,. 154 can be chosen so as to influence the resulting shape of the textile element. Although not shown in the figures, more than one section may be removed from the textile element 1 so as to allow more than one change in configuration of the textile element. The W shaped textile element 1"' may be secured to another textile for implementing into a garment or other textile piece or may be directed secured into the garment or textile piece. For example, it may be secured by sewing through the plastics free portions 18, 20. The shaped textile element 1"' may be held together before securing it to another textile by adhering the first and second textile element portions 152, 154 to one another where they are brought into alignment. They may instead be secured by sewing, staple or dog bone through complementary holes in each of the first and second textile element portions 152, 154. Figures 6a and 6b illustrate steps that can be taken to secure a W shaped textile element 1"' to a textile carrier 200. It will be appreciated that the textile element may be any shape. Moreover, more than one textile element may be used to form a desired shape onto a textile carrier. The fabric strip 10 of the textile element 1"' is provided with an adhesive tape 202 adhered to an outer surface 204 of the textile element 1"' so as to present an adhesive layer facing outwardly from the outer surface 204 of the textile element 1"'. In the embodiment shown, the adhesive layer is a heat activated polyurethane adhesive layer. In other embodiments, the adhesive layer may take any other suitable form, e.g. it may not be heat activated. Although not shown in the figures, there is a removeable backing layer provided on the adhesive layer. In this embodiment the removeable backing layer is a layer of polypropylene. The textile element 1"' is placed in a similarly shaped aperture 206 that is formed on a heat resistance sheet 208 of a jig 210. The sheet 208 is made from a sheet of silicone rubber. The heat resistant sheet may take any other suitable form, such as a metal sheet, e.g. aluminium. The backing layer is removed from the adhesive tape 202 and a textile carrier 212 (not shown in Figure 6a) is positioned relative to the textile element 1"' so as to cover the adhesive tape 202. The jig 210 further includes positioning indicators 214 that are positioned relative to the aperture 206 and are visually distinct from the heat resistant sheet 208. These help to indicate where the textile carrier 212 should be placed so as to align it with the textile element 1"'. A heated plate (not shown) that is moveable relative to the jig 210 is brought down onto the aligned textile carrier 212 and textile element 1"' so as to apply heat and pressure to thus activate the adhesive and thereby adhere the textile carrier 212 to the textile element 1"'. The pressure and heat that is applied in this step is dependent on factors such as the material of the textile carrier 212 and the textile element 1"' and the type of adhesive that is used. The result of the aforementioned adhering step is shown in Figure 6b, in which the textile element 1"' is adhered to the textile carrier 212. The textile carrier 212 can then be secured to a supportive textile, such as a garment, by any suitable means, e.g. sewing or gluing or a mixture of both. The textile carrier 212 itself may be formed into a desired textile or garment. An example of an adhesive tape 202 that is provided on the outer surface 204 of the textile element 1"' is shown in Figures 7a and 7b. The adhesive tape 202 is a multiply adhesive tape 202. The multiply adhesive tape 202 includes first and second layers of heat-activated polyurethane adhesive 220, 222 on opposing sides of a barrier layer 224. As shown in Figures 7a and 7b, a polypropylene backing layer 226 is provided on the outer surface of the second layer 222 of adhesive. The first and second layers 220, 222 of polyurethane adhesive are preferably activated at temperatures between 140°C and 160°C. Prior to heating, the first layer 220 of heat-activated polyurethane adhesive presents a tacky surface that allows it to be pushed into tacky adhesion with the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10 so that the multiply adhesive layer 202 is secured to and extends longitudinally along the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10. So as to ensure the first layer 220 of adhesive is heated in order to securely adhere the adhesive tape 202 to the outer surface of the fabric strip 10, the fabric strip 10 (during the process of forming a textile element 1"') is preferably heated prior to applying the plastics coating 22. This, together with heating caused by the application of the plastics coating 22, activates the first layer 220 of adhesive, softening the first layer 220 of adhesive and thereby increasing the tackiness of the first layer 220 of adhesive. Moreover, the application of pressure to fold the fabric strip 10 during the process of making a textile element 1"', pushes the first layer 220 of adhesive against the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10. This causes the first layer 220 of adhesive to penetrate into the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10. As will be appreciated, the continued application of pressure to the adhesive tape 202 and the fabric strip 10 throughout the process of forming a textile element 1"' will cause the first layer 220 of adhesive to penetrate the outer layer 204 of the fabric strip 10. The inclusion of the centrally located barrier layer 224, however, limits the penetration of the adhesive tape 202 and prevents the second layer 222 of adhesive similarly penetrating into the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10. This is achieved through the use of a polyurethane barrier layer 224 having a relatively higher melting point than the polyurethane adhesive layers 220, 222. This ensures that the barrier layer 224 remains intact and provides a barrier to prevent penetration of the second layer 222 of adhesive into the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10. As a result, the second layer 222 of adhesive remains intact on the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10 for subsequent use to adhere the resultant textile element 1"' to a textile carrier 212 or other textile / garment. This in turn effectively reduces the amount of adhesive required to adhere the tape 202 to the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10 and provide sufficient adhesive for subsequent use. As such, the use of the multiply adhesive tape 202 with polyurethane barrier layer reduces the total amount of adhesive required by approximately 50% when compared with a single ply adhesive layer having no barrier layer and provided to adhere to the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10 and provide sufficient adhesive for subsequent use. 5 The use of the multi-ply tape also reduces the extent to which temperature must be controlled during the process of forming the textile element 1 because the extent to which the first layer 220 of adhesive might penetrate the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10 is limited by the barrier layer 224. As such, the operating temperature 10 during formation of the textile element 1 may be anywhere between 110°C and 180°C. Greater care in controlling the temperature would be required if a single-ply tape was used, which would require control to ensure only the required amount of adhesive penetrating the outer surface 204 of the fabric strip 10 to adhere the adhesive tape 202 to the fabric strip 10. 15

Claims

1. A method of forming a textile element for use as a structural support component in a garment, the method comprising the steps of:providing a fabric strip having a fold between its outer edges, wherein the fabric strip includes a higher modulus of elasticity at each of the outer edges than at the fold resulting in a fabric strip that is looser at its outer edges than therebetween and so is biased to curl at its outer edges, the fabric strip further including a plush surface positioned between at least one of the outer edges and the fold;preconditioning the fabric strip to temporarily flatten the fabric strip under tension;while the fabric strip is flattened under tension, applying a plastics coating to the plush surface of the fabric strip so that the plastics coating penetrates the plush surface;folding the fabric strip about the fold to create a folded edge and an opposing open edge of the folded fabric strip, the folding step being carried out before allowing the plastics coating to rigidify so as to sandwich the plastics coating between the plush surface and an opposing surface of the fabric strip; andafter the folding step, releasing the tension being applied to the fabric strip to create a folded fabric strip that includes a higher modulus of elasticity at the open edge than at the folded edge and so is biased to curl around its folded edge.

2. A method according to Claim 1 wherein tension is applied to the fabric strip to temporarily flatten the fabric strip additionally during at least the folding step.

3. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the preconditioning step includes applying heat to the fabric strip.

4. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the step of applying the plastics coating to the plush surface includes defining a footprint on the plush surface upon application of the coating that is substantially unchanged upon rigidifying of the coating.

5. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the plastics coating is applied and rigidified at a position inboard of the fold so as to create a plastics free portion at the fold of the fabric strip.

6. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the plastics coating is applied and rigidified inboard of the adjacent edge of the fabric strip so as to create a plastics free portion at that edge of the fabric strip.

7. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the plush surface is present at either side of the fold of the fabric strip and the plastics coating is applied onto the plush surfaces on either side of the fold of the fabric strip.

8. A method according to any preceding claim further including the step of coiling the fabric strip before allowing the plastics coating to rigidify so as to form the fabric strip into a helical coil structure having a predetermined diameter, wherein coiling the fabric strip includes coiling with the folded edge of the fabric strip defining the inside diameter of the coiled fabric strip.

9. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the step of providing a fabric strip further includes: including a physical barrier at only one edge of the plush surface of the fabric strip to restrict the flow of plastics coating when applied to the plush surface.

10. A method according to Claim 9 wherein the physical barrier is positioned at an outer edge of the plush surface adjacent to the outer edge of the fabric strip.

11. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the method further including the steps of:after the folding step, removing a section of the fabric strip to create first and second textile element portions on either side of the removed section; andbringing the first and second textile element portions towards one another to change the configuration of the first and second textile element portions relative to one another thereby creating a desired shape of supportive textile element.

12. A method according to Claim 11 wherein the step of removing a section of the fabric strip includes removing the section from the open edge of the fabric strip.

13. A method according to any preceding claim further including the steps of: providing an adhesive tape adhered to an outer surface of the fabric strip so as to present an adhesive layer facing outwardly from the outer surface of the fabric strip once the fabric strip has been folded;after the folding step, locating the folded fabric strip in a correspondingly shaped aperture formed in a jig so that the adhesive layer is exposed;positioning a textile carrier element relative to the folded fabric strip so as to cover the adhesive layer on the folded fabric strip in a predetermined configuration;applying heat and pressure to the aligned textile carrier element and the folded fabric strip so as to adhere the textile carrier element to the fabric strip; andforming the adhered textile carrier element and folded fabric strip into a supportive textile.

14. A method according to any preceding claim further including the step of applying a multi-ply adhesive tape simultaneously with one or more of the steps of the method to an outer surface of the fabric strip, the tape having first and second layers of adhesive on opposing sides of a barrier layer, with the first layer of adhesive in face to face contact with the outer surface of the fabric strip so that the adhesive tape is secured to and extends longitudinally along an outer surface of the fabric strip once it is folded about the plastics coating with the second layer of adhesive facing outwardly from the outer surface of the fabric strip.

15. An apparatus for forming a textile element for use as a structural support component in a garment, the apparatus comprising:a preconditioning unit configured to temporality flatten a fabric strip under tension, the fabric strip having a fold between its outer edges, wherein the fabric strip includes a higher modulus of elasticity at each of the outer edges than at the fold resulting in a fabric strip that is looser at its outer edges than therebetween and so is biased to curl at its outer edges, the fabric strip further including a plush surface positioned between at least one of the outer edges and the fold;an applicator for applying a plastics coating to the plush surface of the fabric strip while the fabric strip is flattened under tension so that the plastics coating penetrates the plush surface and results in a composite structure at the juncture between the plastics coating and the plush surface upon the plastics coating rigidlfying;a folding mechanism configured to fold the fabric strip about the fold to create a folded edge and an opposing open edge of the folded fabric strip, the folding step being carried out before allowing the plastics coating to rigidify so as to sandwich the plastics coating between the plush surface and an opposing surface of the fabric stripa releasing mechanism configured to release the tension being applied to the fabric strip after the folding step to create a folded fabric strip that includes a higher modulus of elasticity at the open edge than at the folded edge and so is biased to curl around its folded edge.

16. A textile element for use as a structural support component in a garment, the textile element comprising a fabric strip having a plush surface and a plastics coating applied to the plush surface so that at least surface yarns of the plush surface are 5 embedded in the plastics coating and form a composite structure at the juncture between the plastics coating and the plush surface, wherein the fabric is folded about a fold so as to sandwich the plastics coating between the plush surface and an opposing surface of the fabric strip, the folded fabric strip creating a folded edge and an opposing open edge, the fabric strip including a higher modulus of elasticity at each of its outer 10 edges than at its fold resulting in a folded fabric strip that Is looser at the open edge than at the folded edge and so is biased to curl around its folded edge.

17. A supportive garment comprising a garment fabric and a textile element according to Claim 16 secured to the garment fabric so as to create a supporting portion 15 of the garment.

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