Composition for keratin fiber
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022199443
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-12-14
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care compositions do not effectively protect or maintain the color of pigmented hair, particularly in terms of color fading prevention.
A composition for keratin fibers comprising at least one fatty acid and an oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid, with specific ratios and combinations, is used to enhance color protection and maintenance.
The composition provides improved color protection and maintenance for colored keratin fibers by preventing dye leaching, resulting in enhanced color permanence.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for keratinous fibers, preferably hair. [Background technology]
[0002] In the field of hair cosmetic treatment, rinse-off hair cosmetics are an important segment in the hair care category, and consumers use these hair cosmetics to impart smoothness and the like to their hair.
[0003] For example, WO 2017 / 132308 discloses a hair care composition comprising from about 0.01% to about 20% of a lipid, which is one or more unsaturated fatty materials selected from unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0004] However, this prior art is not directed to hair coloring, in particular color protection of colored hair. There remains a need for cosmetic compositions for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, that are capable of imparting improved color protection properties to colored keratin fibers, in particular colored hair. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0005] [Patent Document 1] WO 2017 / 132308 [Patent Document 2] French Patent Application Publication No. 8516334 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Patent No. 4,957,732 [Patent Document 4] European Patent No. 0186507 [Patent Document 5] European Patent Application No. 0342834 [Non-patent literature]
[0006] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter NOLL, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-Patent Document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, TODD & BYERS, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics" Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0007] It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, which is capable of protecting or maintaining the color of colored keratinous fibers. [Means for solving the problem]
[0008] The object of the present invention is to provide a composition for keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising: (a) at least one fatty acid; (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; Including, This can be achieved by a composition, wherein the amount of (a) fatty acid in the composition is at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0009] The fatty acid may be selected from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0010] The fatty acid may be selected from fatty acids having from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0011] The fatty acids may be selected from arachidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0012] The amount of fatty acid in the composition may range from 3% to 20% by mass, preferably from 4% to 15% by mass, more preferably from 5% to 12% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0013] (b) The triglyceride of the hydroxylated fatty acid in the oligomer has the following formula (A):
[0014] [ka]
[0015] (In the formula, R1 represents, for example, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents, for example, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms. It can be represented by:
[0016] (b) The saturated diacid in the oligomer has the following formula (B):
[0017] [ka]
[0018] (In the formula, X1 is a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably a linear alkylene group -(CH2) x - (wherein x is an integer of 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 15). It can be represented by:
[0019] (b) The oligomer of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids may be hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer.
[0020] The amount of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and oligomers of saturated diacids in the composition may range from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one oil. The oil may be chosen from triglycerides.
[0022] The composition may be of the rinse-off type.
[0023] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers.
[0024] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying to keratin fibers a first composition comprising either (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; (ii) applying to the keratin fibers a second composition comprising (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one other of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and oligomers of saturated diacids, not contained in the first composition; wherein the amount of the fatty acid (a) in the first or second composition is at least 2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0025] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that the combination of components of the present invention produces a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, that can exhibit improved color protection properties for colored keratinous fibers.
[0026] The present invention therefore relates to a composition for keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising: (a) at least one fatty acid; (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; Including, It primarily relates to a composition, wherein the amount of (a) fatty acid in the composition is at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0027] The compositions according to the invention can be used for coloured keratin fibres, in particular for protecting and / or maintaining the colour of coloured keratin fibres, and provide improved colour protection and / or maintenance benefits.
[0028] "Keratin fibres" as used herein include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes etc. The present invention is preferably used for hair.
[0029] The expression "color protection of colored keratin fibers" or "color maintenance of colored keratin fibers" refers to the effect of protecting or maintaining the color of keratin fibers already imparted to the keratin fibers by dyeing the keratin fibers. Therefore, the expression "color protection of colored keratin fibers" or "color maintenance of colored keratin fibers" can also be understood as the effect of preventing the fading or leaching of color from colored keratin fibers. The composition according to the present invention can also impart improved color permanence to keratin fibers.
[0030] The keratin fibers to be treated with the composition according to the present invention can be colored by dyeing the keratin fibers. Although the method of dyeing the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, typically, the keratin fibers are colored with an oxidative color precursor using an oxidative dye.
[0031] The composition according to the present invention can be preferably used as a cosmetic composition.In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be intended for application on keratin fibers such as hair.Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic method for keratin fibers.
[0032] The composition according to the invention may be in any form, such as a solution, gel, lotion, serum, suspension, dispersion, fluid, milk, thickened or unthickened W / O or O / W emulsion, paste, foam or cream.
[0033] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is a rinse-off cosmetic composition. Rinse-off compositions are intended to be washed off after their use on keratinous fibers.
[0034] The present invention will be described in detail below.
[0035] [Composition] One aspect of the present invention is a composition for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising: (a) at least one fatty acid; (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; The present invention relates to a composition comprising:
[0036] Each component is described in detail below.
[0037] (fatty acid) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty acid. Two or more fatty acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty acid or a combination of different types of fatty acids may be used.
[0038] The term "fatty acid" as used herein means a monofunctional carboxylic acid having an aliphatic chain.
[0039] The fatty acids may be linear or branched. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acids are linear.
[0040] The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0041] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include fatty acids having 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and especially 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0042] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0043] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear fatty acids having 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the fatty acid is saturated or unsaturated with 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0044] The fatty acid has the following formula (I): RCOOH (I) (In the formula, R is a linear or branched, preferably linear, C6-C 28 Alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8 to C 24 An alkyl or alkenyl group, more preferably C 10 ~C 20 Alkyl or alkenyl groups, especially C 12 ~C 18 is an alkyl or alkenyl group) R may contain 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0045] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include arachidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0046] Preferably, the fatty acids are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0047] The amount of fatty acid in the composition according to the invention is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the amount of fatty acid in the composition may be 3% or more by weight, more preferably 4% or more by weight, even more preferably 5% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0048] The amount of fatty acid in the composition according to the invention may be up to 20% by weight, preferably up to 15% by weight, more preferably up to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0049] The composition according to the present invention may contain fatty acids in an amount of 3% to 20% by mass, preferably 4% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 12% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0050] In the context of the present invention, any combination of the above upper and lower limits may be used to express a range of preferred amounts.
[0051] (Oligomers of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids) The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one oligomer of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids. Two or more oligomers of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oligomer of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids or a combination of different types of oligomers of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids may be used.
[0052] The term "oligomer" as used herein means a polymer in which a relatively small number of monomers are combined. It is preferred that the number of monomers in an oligomer be 100 or less, more preferably 50 or less, and even more preferably 20 or less.
[0053] (b) The oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid can be obtained by reacting a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid (e.g., hydrogenated castor oil) with a saturated diacid. This reaction may be esterification. Thus, (b) the oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid may be an oligoester of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid.
[0054] According to the invention, a diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon-based chain from which it is composed does not have any unsaturated groups, i.e., no carbon-carbon double bonds. The term "diacid" means herein a hydrocarbon-based compound containing two -COOH carboxyl functional groups. The diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several different diacids.
[0055] In one embodiment of the invention, the diacid contains two -COOH carboxyl functional groups at the chain ends.
[0056] Likewise, an oligomer in the sense of the present invention can be a mixture of several different oligomers.
[0057] Among the saturated diacids that may be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.
[0058] More specifically, the oligomer may be an oligoester, each monomer of which is represented by a triglyceride of formula (A) and a diacid of formula (B):
[0059] [ka]
[0060] [In the formula, R1 represents, for example, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably -(CH2) l - group, where "l" can vary from 1 to 20, in particular from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12, R2 represents, for example, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably -(CH2) m represents a -CH3 group, where "m" can vary from 0 to 11, in particular from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9, X1 represents a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably a linear alkylene group -(CH2) x - (wherein "x" is an integer of 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 15).
[0061] According to one embodiment, l=10, m=5 and the group in formula (A) above:
[0062] [ka]
[0063] represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (the main component of hydrogenated castor oil).
[0064] When the diacid is sebacic acid, X1 is a linear alkylene group -(CH2) x - (wherein "x" is 8).
[0065] The average degree of polymerization of the oligomers may vary between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.
[0066] Thus, (b) an oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid has the following formula (C):
[0067] [ka]
[0068] (In the formula, Each of R1, R2 and X1 has the meaning described above; n denotes the average degree of polymerization between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10. It can be expressed as:
[0069] The following groups in formula (C):
[0070] [ka]
[0071] It is preferred that X1 represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid and X1 represents -(CH2)8-.
[0072] More preferably, the (a) oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid is an oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, i.e., a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid.
[0073] Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymers are sold under various names depending on the degree of polymerization, notably by Croda Corporation.
[0074] Among the hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymers, one having a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-5" and one having a degree of polymerization of about 9.5 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-10" and are sold by Croda Japan Co., Ltd.
[0075] Mention may also be made of the oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and of sebacic acid sold under the name CRODABOND CSA (MW=3,500) by the company Croda.
[0076] The oligomers of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and of saturated diacids may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of at least 0.05% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably at least 0.15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] The oligomers of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and of saturated diacids may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0078] The oligomers of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] (oil) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0080] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and at room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0081] The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil, a polar oil, such as a vegetable or animal oil, an ester oil, an ether oil, or an aliphatic alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
[0082] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.
[0083] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0085] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, especially triglycerides such as synthetic triglycerides, and ether oils.
[0086] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.
[0087] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0088] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0089] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22Esters with alcohols, and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0090] Mention may especially be made of diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0091] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0092] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0093] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C22 They may be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids. When these compounds are unsaturated, they may have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0094] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristic acid, behenic acid, coconut acid, stearate, linoleate, linolenic acid, capric acid and arachidic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, the mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0096] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose.
[0097] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0098] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicarbonate, and the like. Examples of suitable glyceryl stearate include prilyl, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] Triglycerides are esters derived from glycerol and three fatty acids and are sometimes called triacylglycerols.
[0100] Triglycerides contain at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residue. Triglycerides preferably have at least one saturated fatty acid residue. In other words, triglycerides are preferably esters derived from glycerol and at least one saturated fatty acid. When two or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different, preferably different. Thus, in a particular embodiment, triglycerides contain two different saturated fatty acid residues.
[0101] The fatty acid moieties in the triglycerides may have from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms.
[0102] The triglyceride may be an artificial triglyceride. Examples of the artificial triglyceride include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinoleate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0103] For a detailed description of silicone oils, including examples of silicone oils, see the Silicone Oils section below.
[0104] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0105] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0106] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohols refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched.
[0107] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl groups. R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0108] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] Therefore, fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 Alcohol can be selected.
[0110] The term "saturated aliphatic alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. A saturated aliphatic alcohol is any linear or branched, saturated C-C 30 It is preferably selected from aliphatic alcohols. Linear or branched saturated C6-C 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols are preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20More preferably, an aliphatic alcohol can be used. 16 ~C 20 Even more preferably, fatty alcohols may be used.
[0111] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
[0112] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.
[0113] It may be preferred that the oil is chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0114] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and is composed of short chain hydrocarbons (C1 to C 12 ), ester oils having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 109, 109, 109, 109, 109, 109, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 1 12 ~C 30 ) type oils, as well as ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0115] The oil in the composition according to the invention may be a silicone oil. A single type of silicone oil may be used, but two or more different types of silicone oils may also be used in combination.
[0116] As used herein, "silicone oil" refers to a silicone compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25° C.). As the silicone oil, any of those commonly used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination.
[0117] Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0118] Thus, the silicone oil may be selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Thus, the silicone oil may comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
[0120] The volatile or non-volatile silicone may be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organofunctional moiety or group.
[0121] For example, the silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes; and organically modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organofunctional moiety or group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, amine or amide moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, hydroxyacylamino moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups, polyamine or polyamide moieties or groups, and oxazoline moieties.
[0122] When the silicone oil is volatile, it may be chosen from those having a boiling point in the range of 60° C. to 260° C., for example: (i) cyclic silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, for example 4 to 6, silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and under the trade name SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE and under the trade name SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, and under the trade name KF-995 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (INCI: cyclohexasiloxane), sold, for example, under the trade name XIAMETER® PMX-246 and under the trade name DC246 Fluid by Dow Corning, and mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones which may also be used are, for example, those sold by the company DOW CORNING under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 246. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as those of the formula:
[0123] [ka]
[0124] (In the formula,
[0125] [ka]
[0126] ) SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109, marketed by UNION CARBIDE, may also be used. Combinations of cyclic silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as a (50 / 50) mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane, may also be used. (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane, for example, sold under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", TODD & BYERS, Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32.
[0127] When the silicone oil is volatile, it may be chosen from cyclic silicones.
[0128] On the other hand, the silicone oil may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, for example from polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and the organomodified polysiloxanes explained above.
[0129] According to one embodiment, the silicone oil may be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups, known under the trade name Dimethicone.
[0130] Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include: SILBIONE® fluids of the 47 and 70 047 series sold by the company RHODIA, as well as MIRASIL® fluids, for example 70 047 fluid V 500 000, MIRASIL® series fluids marketed by RHODIA, Fluids of the 200 series marketed by Dow Corning, e.g., fluids with a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s DC200, XIAMETER® PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 60000CS, marketed by Dow Corning; GENERAL ELECTRIC's VISCASIL® fluids and some of the GENERAL ELECTRIC's SF series fluids (e.g., SF 96 and SF 18); A liquid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by the company DOW CORNING.
[0131] The products sold under the trade names "ABIL Wax® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, which belong to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, are polydialkyl (C1-C 20 ) siloxanes, which may also be used.
[0132] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be selected from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
[0133] Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include products commercially available under the following trade names: RHODIA Silbione® Fluid 70 641 Series, RHODORSIL® Fluid 70 633 Series and 763 Series from RHODIA; phenyl trimethicone fluid sold under the reference name DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by the company DOW CORNING; BAYER PK series silicone, such as PK20 product, PN series and PH series silicones by BAYER, such as PN1000 products and PH1000 products; Some SF series fluids by GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0134] Organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above that contain within their structure at least one organofunctional moiety or group, either directly attached or attached by means of a hydrocarbon group.
[0135] Organomodified silicones can include, for example: Contains polyethyleneoxy moieties and / or polypropyleneoxy moieties, C6-C 24 Polyorganosiloxanes, optionally containing alkyl moieties, such as the products called dimethicone copolyols sold by DOW CORNING under the trade names DC 1248 and DC Q2-5220, as well as SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 fluids sold by UNION CARBIDE, and PEG-12 dimethicone sold by DOW CORNING under the trade name XIAMETER® OFX-0193 FLUID, and Q2 5200 (C 5200) sold by DOW CORNING. 12 ) alkyl-methicone copolyols; Polyorganosiloxanes containing optionally substituted amine moieties, such as the products sold under the trade names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and those sold under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine moieties may be selected, for example, from amino C1-C4 alkyl moieties. The aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have additional C1-C4 alkoxy functional groups, such as those corresponding to the WACKER BELSIL ADM LOG 1 products. The aminosilicones or amodimethicones preferably have at least one, preferably two, additional alkyl groups, such as C1-C4 alkyl groups, at the end of their molecular chain. 12 ~C 20 , preferably C 14 ~C 18 , more preferably C 16 ~C 18 may contain alkyl groups, such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone sold under the trade name "Silsoft Ax" by Momentive Performance Materials; polyorganosiloxanes containing alkoxylated moieties, such as the products sold under the trade names "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by the company SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; Polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxylated moieties, such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in French Patent Application Publication No. 8516334; Polyorganosiloxanes containing acyloxyalkyl moieties, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732; Polyorganosiloxanes containing anionic moieties of carboxylic acid type, such as the products described in EP 0 186 507, marketed by Chisso Corporation, and polyorganosiloxanes containing anionic moieties of carboxyl alkyl, such as those present in the X-22-3701E product marketed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; polyorganosiloxanes containing 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonates; and polyorganosiloxanes containing 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfates, such as the products marketed under the trade names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; Polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyacylamino moieties, such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the product Q2-8413 marketed by DOW CORNING; Polyorganosiloxanes containing acrylic moieties, such as the products sold under the names VS80 and VS70 by the company 3M; Polyorganosiloxanes containing polyamine moieties, and Polyorganosiloxanes containing oxazoline moieties
[0136] [ka]
[0137] Silicones that may be used according to the invention may contain one or two oxazoline groups, such as poly(2-methyloxazoline-b-dimethylsiloxane-b-2-methyloxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethylsiloxane). Products sold under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96 and OS-88 by Kao Corporation may also be used.
[0138] Polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups may also be used, such as those sold under the trade name Dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series fluids marketed by RHODIA.
[0139] When the silicone oil is non-volatile, the silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxane and organically modified polydimethylsiloxane. The organically modified polydimethylsiloxane may be selected from dimethicone copolyol. The viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane or the organically modified polydimethylsiloxane may be 1,000,000 cst to 20,000,000 cst.
[0140] The silicone oil may be selected from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, for example from volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing linear or cyclic silicone chains which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular from cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyltrimethylsiloxanes, ... It may be preferred to select from phenylsilicones such as dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, and polymethylphenylsiloxane; and organically modified silicones such as dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyols (e.g., PEG-12 dimethicone and PEG14 dimethicone) and amodimethicones (e.g., bis-cetearyl amodimethicone).
[0141] As silicone oils, it is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone. A non-limiting example of such a combination is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, for example sold under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.
[0142] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oil is selected from synthetic oils selected from alkane oils, ester oils, especially triglycerides such as artificial triglycerides, ether oils, and combinations thereof, more preferably selected from ester oils, and especially artificial triglycerides such as caprylyl / capryl triglyceride.
[0143] The amount of oil in the composition according to the present invention is not limited.For example, in some embodiments of the present invention, the amount of oil can be 3% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, even more preferably 20% by weight or more, preferentially 35% by weight or more, particularly 50% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0144] The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention may be up to 99% by weight, preferably up to 97% by weight, more preferably up to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] The amount of oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% to 99% by weight, preferably 5% to 97% by weight, more preferably 10% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Any combination of the above upper and lower limits may be used to represent a preferred range of amounts.
[0146] (hydrophilic organic solvent) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent.
[0147] The term "hydrophilic" as used herein refers to the degree of hydrophilicity at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5By "a cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent" is meant a substance that has a solubility in water of at least 1 g / L, preferably at least 10 g / L, more preferably at least 100 g / L, at 250 Pa. Thus, a cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent, if present, is comprised in the aqueous phase.
[0148] Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvents include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monohydric alcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, sorbitol, the monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol ethers, such as the monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as the monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-10, and PEG-20, and derivatives thereof, and combinations thereof.
[0149] The amount of the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent in the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, the amount of the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent may be 1% by mass to 90% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0150] (Other optional additives) The compositions according to the invention may also comprise any other optional additives normally used in the field of cosmetics, for example chosen from water, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers, gums, resins, hydrophilic thickeners, hydrophobic thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, film-forming agents, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, emollients, and mixtures thereof.
[0151] It is routine for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amounts of the above-mentioned optional additives which may be present in the composition according to the invention so that the desired cosmetic properties are not affected by said additives.
[0152] The composition according to the present invention may or may not contain water.In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may optionally contain water in an amount of 1% by weight or less, 0.1% by weight or less, or 0.01% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.In another embodiment, the composition does not contain water.
[0153] When the composition contains water, the amount of water is not particularly limited, but is generally 0.1 to 90%.
[0154] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and, if necessary, the optional components described above.
[0155] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0156] [Beauty method] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers.
[0157] The cosmetic method of the invention may be a cosmetic method of treatment, conditioning and / or care for keratinous fibers, preferably hair.
[0158] The keratinous fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied may be left for an appropriate time required to treat the keratinous fibers. The length of time for each treatment is not limited, but may be 5 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably 30 seconds to 40 minutes.
[0159] The keratinous fibers may be treated at room temperature, or alternatively, they may be heated to between 15°C and 45°C, preferably between 20°C and 40°C, more preferably between 25°C and 35°C, and even more preferably between 27°C and 35°C, before and / or during and / or after the step of applying the composition according to the invention onto the keratinous fibers.
[0160] The composition according to the invention may be washed off after treating the keratinous fibers with the composition. Thus, in one embodiment of the invention, the method according to the invention may comprise the additional step of washing off the composition from the keratinous fibers.
[0161] The method according to the invention may be used for coloured keratinous fibres, in particular for protecting or maintaining the colour of coloured keratinous fibres, whilst treating, conditioning and / or caring for the keratinous fibres.
[0162] Therefore, as an embodiment (I) of the cosmetic method, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising: (i) applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous fibres; (ii) optionally maintaining the composition on the keratinous fibers for a certain period of time; (iii) optionally washing the composition from the keratinous fibers; The present invention relates to a cosmetic method comprising the steps of:
[0163] In another embodiment of the cosmetic method (II), the active ingredients (a) at least one fatty acid and (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid can be applied separately to keratin fibers.
[0164] In embodiment (II), first (a) at least one fatty acid may be applied to the keratinous fibers, and then (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid may be applied to the keratinous fibers, or first (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid may be applied to the keratinous fibers, and then (a) at least one fatty acid may be applied to the keratinous fibers.
[0165] The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying to keratin fibers a first composition comprising either (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; (ii) applying to the keratin fibers a second composition comprising (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one other of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and oligomers of saturated diacids, not contained in the first composition; wherein the amount of the (a) fatty acid in the first or second composition is at least 2% by weight based on the total weight of the first or second composition.
[0166] The embodiment (II) of the cosmetic method according to the present invention may include the following aspects.
[0167] One embodiment is a cosmetic method in which first (a) a fatty acid is applied to keratinous fibers. Thus, this embodiment is a cosmetic method for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising: (i)(a) applying a first composition comprising at least one fatty acid to keratinous fibers, and then (ii)(b) applying to the keratin fibers a second composition comprising at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; wherein the amount of the fatty acid (a) in the first composition is at least 2% by weight based on the total weight of the first composition.
[0168] Another embodiment is a cosmetic method in which (b) an oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid is first applied to the keratin fibers. Thus, this embodiment is a cosmetic method for keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising: (i)(b) applying to the keratin fibers a first composition comprising at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; and (ii)(a) applying a second composition comprising at least one fatty acid to the keratinous fibers; wherein the amount of the fatty acid (a) in the second composition is at least 2% by weight based on the total weight of the second composition.
[0169] The amount of fatty acid in the first or second composition is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the amount of fatty acid in the first or second composition may be 4% or more, more preferably 6% or more, even more preferably 8% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] The amount of fatty acid in the first or second composition may be up to 40% by weight, preferably up to 30% by weight, more preferably up to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] The amount of fatty acid in the first or second composition may be from 2% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably from 4% by mass to 30% by mass, more preferably from 6% by mass to 20% by mass, and even more preferably from 8% by mass to 20% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0172] The oligomers of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids may be present in the first or second composition in an amount of at least 0.05% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably at least 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] The oligomers of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids may be present in the first or second composition in an amount of not more than 20% by weight, preferably not more than 15% by weight, more preferably not more than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] The oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid may be present in the first or second composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0175] The second composition is applied to the keratin fibers after the application of the first composition. The keratin fibers to which the first composition has been applied can be left for a suitable time required to treat the keratin fibers. The length of time for treatment with the first composition between the application of the first composition and the application of the second composition is not particularly limited, but can be 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 2 to 25 minutes, and more preferably 5 to 20 minutes.
[0176] In one embodiment of the present invention, the step of washing off the first composition is not included between steps (i) and (ii) in embodiment (II) of the cosmetic method of the present invention.
[0177] The same optional steps as those of the embodiment (I) of the method can be incorporated into the embodiment (II) of the method. For example, the keratin fibers to which the first and second compositions have been applied can be left for a suitable time required to treat the keratin fibers. The length of time for treatment is not limited, but can be 5 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 10 minutes, more preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes.
[0178] The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying to keratin fibers a first composition comprising either (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; (ii) applying to the keratin fibers a second composition comprising (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one other of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and oligomers of saturated diacids, not contained in the first composition; (iii) optionally maintaining the composition on the keratinous fibers for a certain period of time; (iv) optionally washing the composition from the keratinous fibers; Including, The amount of (a) fatty acid in the first or second composition is at least 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; It also relates to beauty methods.
[0179] The same explanations as given for the composition, (a) at least one fatty acid, and (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid, are applicable to the process according to the invention, unless otherwise specified. The composition used in the process according to the invention may comprise any of the optional components described above for the composition according to the invention. EXAMPLES
[0180] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0181] (Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Example 1) [Preparation] The hair compositions according to Examples 1-8 (Ex.1-8) and Comparative Example 1 (Comp. Ex.1) were prepared by mixing the ingredients until homogeneous under ambient conditions. The formulations of the compositions are shown in Tables 3 and 4. Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer sold under the name Crodabond CSA was obtained from Croda Limited. All values of the amounts of the ingredients are based on "wt %" of the active ingredient.
[0182] [evaluation] A 100% Chinese grey hair swatch (1g, 10cm) was placed on a hot plate at 30°C. A reducing agent (PREMIA WAVE, L'Oreal Professionnel) was applied to the swatch (2g / g hair), which was then covered with vinyl wrap. The swatch was left on the hot plate for 15 minutes, after which the vinyl wrap was removed, and the swatch was then rinsed with tap water (37°C), followed by towel drying. An oxidizing agent (PREMIA WAVE, L'Oreal Professionnel) was applied to the swatch (2g / g hair), which was then covered with vinyl wrap. The swatch was left on the hot plate for 10 minutes, after which the vinyl wrap was removed, and the swatch was then rinsed with tap water (37°C), followed by towel drying and drying with a hair dryer to obtain a permed hair swatch.
[0183] The resulting permed hair swatch was placed on a hot plate at 27°C. A mixture of a color product (Majifashion Pastel Blue 8.11, shade 8, L'Oreal Professionnel) and an oxidant product (Oxidant Creme 6%, 20 vol., L'Oreal Professionnel) in a weight ratio of 1:1.5 was applied to the swatch (3 g of mixture / 1 g of hair), left for 35 minutes, rinsed with tap water (37°C), then washed with plain shampoo, then towel-dried and dried with a hair dryer to obtain a colored permed hair swatch. The formula of the plain shampoo used in the coloring procedure is shown in Table 1 below. All numerical values of the amounts of ingredients are based on the "weight %" of the active ingredients.
[0184] [Table 1]
[0185] The resulting colored permed hair swatch (1 g, 10 cm) was placed on a hot plate at 27°C. Each composition according to Examples 1-9 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to the swatch in an amount of 1 g / g of hair, which was then covered with vinyl wrap. After leaving the swatch on the hot plate for 30 minutes, the vinyl wrap was removed, and the swatch was then rinsed with tap water (37°C). After squeezing out excess water, each swatch was washed with 1 wt% plain shampoo solution for 5 minutes at 1340 rpm, then rinsed with tap water (37°C) and dried with a hair dryer. The formula of the plain shampoo used in the color fade analysis is shown in Table 2 below. All numerical values of the amounts of ingredients are based on the "mass %" of active ingredients.
[0186] [Table 2]
[0187] The color difference of the colored permed hair sample before and after shampoo washing for color fading was measured by measuring the colorimetric values (L*, a*, b*, lightness / green-red / blue-yellow) using a Konica Minolta spectrophotometer CM-3600A. ΔE (between the sample before and after the treatment of the coloring process under the ΔL*a*b system) *ab The average value of two samples was calculated for each experiment. The smaller ΔE *ab shows better color protection.
[0188] [Table 3]
[0189] [Table 4]
[0190] As can be seen in Tables 3 and 4, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 8, which contained specific combinations of components (a) and (b), exhibited low ΔE *abThis means that the leaching of dyes from keratin fibers can be prevented, resulting in colored keratin fibers with improved color protection effect.
[0191] On the other hand, (b) the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not contain triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and oligomers of saturated diacids, had a higher ΔE *ab , indicating a lack of color protection.
[0192] Example 9 [Preparation] The first and second hair compositions according to Example 9 were prepared by mixing the ingredients until homogeneous under ambient conditions. The formulations of each composition are shown in Table 5. Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer sold under the name Crodabond CSA was obtained from Croda Limited. All values of component amounts are based on "wt %" of active ingredients.
[0193] [evaluation] The same colored permed hair samples used in Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Example 1 above were used in this example.
[0194] A colored permed hair sample (1 g, 10 cm) was placed on a hot plate at 27°C. The first composition was applied to the hair sample in an amount of 1 g / g of hair, and then it was covered with vinyl wrap. After the sample was left on the hot plate for 15 minutes, the second composition was applied to the hair sample in an amount of 1 g / g of hair, without any rinsing step, and then it was covered with vinyl wrap. After leaving it for 15 minutes, the vinyl wrap was removed, and then the hair sample was rinsed with tap water (37°C). After squeezing out excess water, the sample was washed with 1 wt% plain shampoo solution for 5 minutes at 1340 rpm for color fading analysis, then rinsed with tap water (37°C) and dried with a hair dryer. The plain shampoo for color fading analysis was the same as that used in Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and its formulation is shown in Table 2 above.
[0195] The color difference of the colored permed hair sample before and after shampoo washing for color fading was measured by measuring the colorimetric values (L*, a*, b*, lightness / green-red / blue-yellow) using a Konica Minolta spectrophotometer CM-3600A. ΔE (between the sample before and after the treatment of the coloring process under the ΔL*a*b system) *ab The average value of two samples was calculated for each experiment. The smaller ΔE *ab shows better color protection.
[0196] [Table 5]
[0197] As can be seen in Table 5, the method according to the invention in which the first composition and the second composition were applied sequentially onto the keratin fibers showed improved color protection effects.
[0198] Accordingly, it can be concluded that the compositions and cosmetic methods according to the invention are able to show improved color protection effects and are therefore highly suitable for the treatment of colored keratinous fibers.
Claims
1. 1. A composition for keratin fibers, comprising: (a) at least one fatty acid; (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; Including, A composition, wherein the amount of (a) fatty acid in the composition is at least 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
2. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is selected from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.
3. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is selected from fatty acids having 6 to 28 carbon atoms.
4. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is selected from arachidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
5. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of fatty acid in the composition ranges from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. (b) The triglyceride of the hydroxylated fatty acid in the oligomer has the following formula (A): 【Chemistry 1】 (In the formula, R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group, R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched alkyl group) 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is represented by:
7. (b) the saturated diacid in the oligomer has the following formula (B): 【Chemistry 2】 (In the formula, X 1 is a linear or branched alkylene group) 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is represented by:
8. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) the oligomer of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids is hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer.
9. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of oligomers of triglycerides of hydroxylated fatty acids and saturated diacids in the composition ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. 10. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one oil.
11. 11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the oil is selected from triglycerides.
12. 10. The composition of claim 1, which is a rinse-off type.
13. A cosmetic method for keratinous fibers, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous fibers a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
14. A cosmetic method for keratin fibers, comprising: (i) applying to keratin fibers a first composition comprising either (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid; (ii) applying to the keratin fibers a second composition not contained in the first composition, the second composition comprising either (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one other of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and an oligomer of a saturated diacid; wherein the amount of (a) the fatty acid in the first or second composition is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.