Cosmetic emulsion composition containing spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and pigment for fresh and refreshing feeling
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022200280
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-12-15
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions face challenges in providing a fresh and refreshing sensation with long-lasting moisture while maintaining stable pigment dispersion, especially when a large amount of aqueous phase is present.
A cosmetic emulsion composition comprising spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, lipophilic thickener, hydrophobic surface-treated pigment, nonionic surfactant, polyol, monoalcohol, and anionic polymer, with an aqueous phase of at least 30% by weight, ensuring good pigment dispersion and stability.
The composition provides a fresh and refreshing feeling with long-lasting moisture and stable pigment dispersion, enhancing the cosmetic experience.
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel for a watery refreshing sensation and at least one pigment. [Background technology]
[0002] Providing a fresh and refreshing texture to keratinous materials such as skin is one of the important features of cosmetics, especially skin cosmetics. Emulsions are commonly used in the form of liquid foundation products because they are pleasant to use due to the refreshing feeling and moisture that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0003] Recently, spherical silylated silica aerogel particles have been developed and it has been reported that these particles result in emulsion compositions with long-lasting stability.
[0004] For example, JP-A-2021-102558 discloses at least one kind of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C 26 A cosmetic composition in the form of a W / O emulsion is disclosed, which comprises at least one ester oil selected from liquid esters with aliphatic monoalcohols or polyhydric alcohols.
[0005] In addition, JP-A-2021-102559 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising (i) at least one type of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and (ii) at least one type of composite silica particle and / or at least one type of hollow silica particle.
[0006] However, when the composition contains a large amount of aqueous phase, there may be a problem that the dispersibility of the pigment is reduced. There is a demand for a cosmetic composition that can provide a moist, fresh and refreshing feeling to keratinous materials such as the skin and that exhibits stable pigment dispersibility.
Prior technical literature
[0007]
Patent Document 1
Patent document 2
Patent document 3
Patent document 4
Patent document 5
Patent document 6
Patent document 7
Patent document 8
Non-licensed literature
[0008] [Non-licensed document 1] Barrett, EP, Joyner, LG, Halenda, PP, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 73, 373(1951) [Non-licensed document 2] "Handbook of Surfactants", by MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116~178 [Non-licensed document 3] Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10-3694~3704 [Non-Patent Document 4] "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) pp. 699-715 [Non-Patent Document 5] D. Campoccia et al., "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) pp. 2101-2127 [Non-Patent Document 6] CM Hansen, "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol, Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967) [Non-Patent Document 7] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. [Non-Patent Document 8] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0009] An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that can provide a fresh (watery) refreshing feeling and long-lasting moisture, and is stable due to good pigment dispersibility. [Means for solving the problem]
[0010] The object of the present invention is to provide an emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophobic surface treated pigment; (d) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from nonionic silicone surfactants; (e) at least one polyol; (f) at least one monoalcohol, and (g) at least one anionic polymer and wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 30% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0011] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be a spherical hydrophobic aerogel of silica silylate.
[0012] The average circularity of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel determined by image analysis may be 0.8 or more, preferably 0.82 or more, and less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, even more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less.
[0013] The lipophilic thickener may be selected from mineral lipophilic thickeners.
[0014] The hydrophobic surface treated pigment may be coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
[0015] The polyol may comprise at least one diol in combination with at least one polyol having three or more --OH functional groups, in particular a triol.
[0016] The polyol may comprise at least 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one diol in combination with at least 3% by weight of at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, in particular a triol.
[0017] The number average molecular weight of the anionic polymer may be in the range of 1,000 to 1,000,000, preferably 5,000 to 500,000, even more preferably 10,000 to 200,000, even more preferably 15,000 to 100,000, and particularly 20,000 to 50,000.
[0018] The anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, as well as cellulose polymers (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamine acid, (co)polystyrenesulfonate, (co)poly(vinylsulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, (co)polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymers.
[0019] The anionic polymer may be selected from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives and their salts, preferably hyaluronic acid and acetylated hyaluronic acid and their salts.
[0020] The non-ionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids.
[0021] The cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one film-forming polymer, preferably chosen from silicone resins.
[0022] The cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates.
[0023] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a skin make-up or skin care composition, preferably a skin make-up composition, more preferably a foundation.
[0024] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, such as the skin, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0025] As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have discovered that a composition in the form of an emulsion containing components (a) to (g) according to the present invention can provide long-lasting moisture together with a fresh and refreshing sensation, and is stable due to good pigment dispersibility, thus completing the present invention.
[0026] The composition according to the invention is therefore an emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophobic surface treated pigment; (d) at least one nonionic surfactant other than a nonionic silicone surfactant; (e) at least one polyol; (f) at least one monoalcohol, and (g) at least one anionic polymer and wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 30% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition.
[0027] The compositions according to the invention are described in more detail below.
[0028] [Composition] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase. The emulsion may be of the O / W type or the W / O type. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in the form of a W / O type emulsion.
[0029] The term "W / O emulsion" or "water-in-oil emulsion" means any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous fatty or oily phase and an aqueous or water phase in the form of droplets dispersed in said fatty or oily phase. The term "O / W emulsion" or "oil-in-water emulsion" means any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous aqueous or water phase and a fatty or oily phase in the form of droplets dispersed in the aqueous or water phase.
[0030] The composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials, more preferably a skin makeup composition or a skin care composition, especially a skin makeup composition. In this specification, keratinous materials refer to materials that contain keratin as a main component, examples of which include skin, scalp, lips, etc. Preferably, the composition of the present invention is used for skin, more preferably facial skin.
[0031] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be used as a liquid foundation, a makeup base and a skin makeup cream composition, in particular as a liquid foundation, which can take the form of a lotion, milk, cream, liquid gel, paste or serum.
[0032] The composition according to the invention can provide a moist, fresh and refreshing sensation to keratinous materials such as the skin. In particular, the composition according to the invention can provide a "fresh" sensation to the keratinous materials. The expression "fresh" sensation is used herein to mean a sensation like a splash or dispersion of water that provides a refreshing sensation to the keratinous materials during application. Such a sensation can provide a refreshing sensation to the consumer.
[0033] The compositions according to the present invention are stable in terms of phase separation and pigment dispersibility.
[0034] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, (b) at least one oleophilic thickener, (c) at least one hydrophobic surface-treated pigment, (d) at least one nonionic surfactant other than a nonionic silicone surfactant, (e) at least one polyol, (f) at least one monoalcohol, and (g) at least one anionic polymer. The components in the composition will be described in detail below.
[0035] (Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one type of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel. Two or more types of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel or a combination of different types of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels may be used.
[0036] Aerogel is a material with high porosity. In this specification, silica aerogel generally refers to a solid silica having a porous structure obtained by drying a wet silica aerogel while maintaining the solid silica network, thereby replacing the medium contained in the wet silica aerogel with air. Porosity is the amount of air contained in the apparent volume of the material, expressed as a volume percentage. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention can have a porosity of 60% or more, preferably 70% or more, and more preferably 80% or more.
[0037] The hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention is characterized in that each particle has a spherical shape. Due to this spherical shape, the hydrophobic silica aerogel can provide good smoothness to the cosmetic composition. The sphericity of the hydrophobic silica aerogel can be determined by the average roundness.
[0038] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention may have an average circularity of 0.8 or more, preferably 0.82 or more.The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average circularity of less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, even more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less.
[0039] The "average circularity" can be determined by image analysis methods. In particular, the "average circularity" can be the arithmetic mean of the circularity obtained by image analysis of scanning electron microscope (SEM) images of 2000 or more aerogel particles observed at 1000 magnification by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).
[0040] The "roundness" of each aerogel particle is calculated according to the following formula: C=4πS / L 2 [wherein C represents the circularity, S represents the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image, and L represents the perimeter (outer perimeter) of the aerogel particle in the image] As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.
[0041] In the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention, the term "hydrophobic" means that the silica aerogel particles are difficult to disperse in water. More specifically, this term means that after 1g of silica aerogel particles and 100g of ion-exchanged water are placed in a bottle, the bottle is stirred or agitated for 10 seconds or more, and the bottle is allowed to stand, the aerogel phase and the aqueous phase are completely separated. Therefore, in a specific embodiment of the present invention, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel does not exhibit water absorption.
[0042] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel that can be used according to the present invention is preferably of the silylated silica type (INCI name: silylated silica).Most preferably, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be that described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433, or JP-A-2018-177620.
[0043] The hydrophobicity is achieved by adding a hydrophobizing agent having the following formula present on the surface of the silica: ≡Si-OH (wherein the symbol "≡" represents the remaining valence of 3 on the Si atom) whereby the silanol group is converted to the following formula: (≡Si-O-) (4-n) SiR n (wherein n is an integer of 1 to 3, each R is independently a hydrocarbyl group, and two or more R may be the same or different, and n is 2 or more.) can be obtained by converting the group represented by the formula:
[0044] The hydrophobizing agent may be a silylation agent. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, in the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, the silica particles may be surface-modified by silylation. Examples of silylation agents include treatment agents having one of the following formulae (1) to (3): Formula (1): R n Six (4-n) [wherein n represents an integer of 1 to 3, R represents a hydrocarbyl group, X represents a group that can be eliminated from the molecule by cleaving the bond to the Si atom during reaction with a compound having a hydroxyl group (i.e., a leaving group), each R may be different, where n is 2 or more, and each X may be different, where n is 2 or less] Formula (2):
[0045] [ka]
[0046] (In the formula, R 1 represents an alkylene group, R 2 and R 3 each independently represents a hydrocarbyl group; R 4 and R 5each independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group. Formula (3):
[0047] [ka]
[0048] (In the formula, R 6 and R 7 each independently represents a hydrocarbyl group, m represents an integer of 3 to 6, R 6 If there are two or more R 6 may be different, R 7 If there are two or more R 7 may be different)
[0049] In the above formula (1), R is a hydrocarbyl group, preferably a hydrocarbyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably a methyl group.
[0050] Examples of the leaving group represented by X include halogen atoms such as chlorine and bromine, alkoxy groups such as methoxy and ethoxy, and groups represented by -NH-SiR3 (wherein R is defined the same as R in formula (1)).
[0051] Specific examples of the hydrophobizing agent represented by the above formula (1) include chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, monomethyltrimethoxysilane, monomethyltriethoxysilane, and hexamethyldisilazane.
[0052] Most preferably, from the standpoint of favorable reactivity, chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, and / or hexamethyldisilazane may be used.
[0053] The number of bonds between the Si atom and the silanol groups on the silica backbone varies depending on the number of leaving groups X (4-n). For example, when n is 2, the following bonds: (≡Si-O-)2SiR2 This occurs.
[0054] If n is 3, the following combination: ≡Si-O-SiR3 This occurs.
[0055] In this way, the silanol groups can be silylated and thereby hydrophobized.
[0056] In the above formula (2), R 1 may be an alkylene group, preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0057] In the above formula (2), R 2 and R 3 are independently hydrocarbyl groups, and the preferred groups are the same as those of R in formula (1). 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group, and in the case of a hydrocarbyl group, the preferred groups are the same as those of R in formula (1). When silica gel is treated with a compound represented by formula (2) (cyclic silazane), the reaction with the silanol groups causes cleavage of the Si-N bond, and thus the following bond is formed on the surface of the silica skeleton in the gel: (≡Si-O-)2SiR 2 R 3 This occurs.
[0058] In this way, the silanol groups can also be silylated by the cyclic silazane of formula (2) above, thereby effecting hydrophobization.
[0059] Specific examples of the cyclic silazane represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisilazane and octamethylcyclotetrasilazane.
[0060] In the above formula (3), R 6 and R 7are independently a hydrocarbyl group, and the same preferred groups as R in formula (2) can be mentioned. m represents an integer of 3 to 6. When silica gel is treated with a compound represented by formula (3) (cyclic siloxane), the following bonds are formed on the surface of the silica skeleton in the gel: (≡Si-O-)2SiR 6 R 7 This occurs.
[0061] In this way, the silanol groups can also be silylated with the cyclic siloxane of formula (3) above, thereby effecting hydrophobization.
[0062] Specific examples of cyclic siloxanes represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0063] Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels can be prepared by producing a silica sol, converting the sol to a gel, aging the gel, washing the aged gel, replacing the water in the washed gel with a solvent, treating the gel with a hydrophobizing agent, and drying the hydrophobized silica.
[0064] The specific surface area of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel determined by the BET method is 200 m 2 / g or more, preferably 400m 2 / g or more, more preferably 500m 2 / g or more and 1200m 2 / g or less, preferably 1000m 2 / g or less, more preferably 800m 2 / g or less.
[0065] In the present invention, the "specific surface area determined by the BET method" means a value determined by drying a measurement sample at 200°C for 3 hours or more under reduced pressure of 1 kPa or less, measuring the adsorption isotherm only on the nitrogen adsorption side at liquid nitrogen temperature, and analyzing the adsorption isotherm by the BET method. The pressure range used for the analysis is a relative stress of 0.1 to 0.25.
[0066] The pore volume of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, as determined by the BJH method, can be 1 ml / g or more, preferably 2 ml / g or more, more preferably 3 ml / g or more, and 10 ml / g or less, preferably 8 ml / g or less, more preferably 7 ml / g or less. The peak pore radius of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, as determined by the BJH method, can be 5 nm or more, preferably 10 nm or more, more preferably 12 nm or more, and 50 nm or less, preferably 40 nm or less, more preferably 30 nm or less.
[0067] "Pore volume determined by the BJH method" refers to the pore volume derived from pores having a pore radius of 1 nm to 100 nm obtained by analyzing the adsorption isotherm on the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the same manner as described above in "specific surface area determined by the BET method" by the BJH method (Barrett, EP, Joyner, LG, Halenda, PP, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 73, 373 (1951)). "Peak pore radius determined by the BJH method" refers to the value of the pore radius that produces a peak in a pore distribution curve (volume distribution curve) plotted on the ordinate and the abscissa of the pore radius, respectively, obtained by analyzing the adsorption isotherm on the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the same manner as described above by the BJH method.
[0068] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average particle size of 0.5 μm or more, preferably 1 μm or more, more preferably 2 μm or more, and may have an average particle size of 30 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 15 μm or less, as determined by image analysis.
[0069] The "average particle size" here can be measured by image analysis. In particular, the value of the "average particle size" is the arithmetic mean of the equivalent circular diameters that can be obtained, for example, by image analysis of scanning electron microscope (SEM) images of 2000 or more aerogel particles observed at 1000 magnification by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The "equivalent circular diameter" of each aerogel particle is the diameter of a circle having an area equal to the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image.
[0070] Preferably, the oil absorption capacity of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, measured at the wet point, can be 2 ml / g or more, preferably 3 ml / g or more, more preferably 4 ml / g or more, and most preferably 5 ml / g or more, and can be 12 ml / g or less, preferably 11 ml / g or less, more preferably 10 ml / g or less, and most preferably 8 ml / g or less.
[0071] The oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It can be measured according to the wetting point method, or the method for determining the oil uptake of powders described in standard NF T 30-022. The oil uptake may correspond to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder, by measuring the wetting point as described below.
[0072] An amount of m=2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then oil (such as ester oil, oleic acid or silicone oil) is added dropwise. After 4-5 drops of oil have been added to the powder, a spatula is used to mix and the addition of oil is continued until an agglomerate of oil and powder is formed. At this point, oil is added drop by drop and then the mixture is triturated with the spatula. When a stiff and smooth paste is obtained, the addition of oil is stopped. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs of the oil used (expressed in ml) is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.
[0073] Alternatively, the oil absorption capacity can be measured according to JIS-K6217-4.
[0074] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is one described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433, or JP-A-2018-177620.
[0075] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be present in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and / or 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, more preferably 1.5% by weight or less, and most preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0076] The amount of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] oily phase The oily phase of the present invention comprises at least (b) a lipophilic gelling agent and (c) a hydrophobic surface-treated pigment. In addition to components (b) and (c), the oily phase may comprise any lipophilic, liposoluble or lipodispersible component.
[0078] The amount of the oily phase is not particularly limited. In general, the amount of the oily phase may be 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, more preferably 20% by weight or more, and / or 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, more preferably 50% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0079] The amount of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 5% to 60% by mass, preferably from 10% to 55% by mass, more preferably from 20% to 50% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0080] (Lipophilic thickener) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic thickener. Two or more lipophilic thickeners may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of lipophilic thickener or a combination of different types of lipophilic thickeners may be used.
[0081] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic" is used herein to mean a lipophilicity at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 It may refer to a substance that has a solubility in oil of at least 1 g / L, preferably at least 10 g / L, more preferably at least 100 g / L, at 25° C. (atmospheric pressure) Pa. In another aspect, the term "lipophilic" may refer to a substance that is insoluble in water or has a solubility in water of 1 g / L or less, or 0.1 g / L or less, at 25° C. (atmospheric pressure).
[0082] The term "lipophilic thickener" means an agent, inorganic or organic, in particulate or not, capable of gelling the oil of the composition. The term "particulate lipophilic thickener" means a lipophilic thickener in particulate or crystalline form (particulate or crystalline).
[0083] The lipophilic thickeners used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from mineral and organic lipophilic thickeners, and mixtures of these compounds. The lipophilic thickeners are preferably particulate.
[0084] The mineral lipophilic thickeners that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably mineral particles essentially composed of mineral oxides and / or hydroxides.
[0085] These particles are preferably insoluble in water at room temperature (25° C.). The term "insoluble" means a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight.
[0086] Preferably, the number average primary size of these mineral particles ranges from 0.01 to 500 μm, preferably from 0.1 to 200 μm and even more preferentially from 1 to 100 μm.
[0087] For purposes of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" means the largest dimension that can be measured between two diametrically opposed points on an individual particle.
[0088] The size of the mineral particles may be determined by transmission electron microscopy, or by measuring the specific surface area by the BET method, or by laser particle size analysis.
[0089] The mineral particles that may be used according to the present invention may be of various morphologies, for example, spherical, acicular, flake or plate-like.
[0090] In a preferred variant of the invention, the mineral lipophilic thickener is in the form of plate-shaped particles.
[0091] The mineral lipophilic thickeners that may be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may preferably be chosen from silicas and silicates.
[0092] The silicates of the present invention may be natural or chemically modified (or synthetic).
[0093] Silicates are made up of silicon atoms with some of them being Al. 3+ , B 3+ , Fe 3+ , Ga 3+ , B.E. 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ , Co 3+ , Ni 3+ , Na + , Li + , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ The metal cations in the silica may be substituted with cations such as arsenic, phosphate, phosphate phosphate, etc.
[0094] More particularly, the silicates that may be used in the context of the present invention are chosen from clays of the smectite family, such as montmorillonite, hectorite, bentonite, beidellite and saponite, and of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families.
[0095] These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials are preferably used.
[0096] The silicates may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The silicates are preferably selected from bentonite and hectorite.
[0097] The silicates may be modified with compounds selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] Suitable silicates for use include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay, stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay, quantanium-18 / benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay, quaternium-18 hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone Gel IPP, Bentone Gel XL by Rheox, Mention may also be made of those sold under the names Simagel M and Simagel SI 345 by the company Biophil, as well as Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8 and Bentone Gel VS38.
[0099] The silicates which may be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular 10 ~C 12 It may also be selected from modified hectorites such as hectorites modified with fatty acid ammonium chlorides, in particular distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and stearyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
[0100] As already explained, the mineral lipophilic thickener that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be a silica.
[0101] The silica that may be used in the composition according to the invention is a fumed silica.
[0102] Fumed silica may be obtained by hydrolysis of volatile silicon compounds in an oxyhydrogen flame at high temperatures to produce finely divided silica. This method makes it possible to obtain hydrophilic silicas that have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are sold, for example, by Degussa under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380®, and by Cabot under the names Cab-O-Sil HS-5®, Cab-O-Sil EH-5®, Cab-O-Sil LM-130®, Cab-O-Sil MS-55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5®.
[0103] It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica through chemical reactions which result in a reduction in the number of silanol groups, it is especially possible to replace the silanol groups with hydrophobic groups, thus obtaining a hydrophobic silica.
[0104] The hydrophobic group may be: (a) Trimethylsiloxy groups, obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as silylated silicas according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot. (b) Dimethylsilyloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane.
[0105] Silicas thus treated are known as dimethylsilylated silicas according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
[0106] Preferentially, the mineral lipophilic thickener is C 10 ~C 12 They are selected from hectorites modified with fatty acid ammonium chlorides, in particular distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and stearyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and hydrophilic fumed silicas, such as the hydrophilic silica sold under the name Aerosil 200®.
[0107] More preferentially, the mineral lipophilic thickener is C 10 ~C 12 It is selected from hectorites modified with fatty acid ammonium chlorides, in particular hectorites modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (or disteardimonium hectorite), such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis, and hectorites modified with stearyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 27V by the company Elementis.
[0108] As already explained, the lipophilic thickeners that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be chosen from organic lipophilic thickeners.
[0109] Preferably, the organic lipophilic thickener is a semicrystalline polymer, a non-silicone polyamide, a silicone polyamide, a saccharide or polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl ester, an N-acyl amino acid amide derivative, a polymer containing alkylene and / or styrene blocks such as polystearyl acrylate, an elastomeric organopolysiloxane, a solid fatty ester, in particular a C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 The copolymers are selected from the group consisting of diblock, triblock or multiblock polymers, radial block polymers, also known as star copolymers, or comb polymers.
[0110] C8~C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 Among fatty acid esters, C8 to C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 Mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids and polyols, more particularly C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 Mention may be made of mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol. In particular, mixtures of these compounds may be used, for example mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters of behenic acid and of glycerol.
[0111] Most particularly, organic lipophilic thickeners are semicrystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, polymers containing alkylene and / or styrene blocks such as polystearyl acrylate, solid fatty esters, especially C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 The fatty acid esters, as well as mixtures of these compounds, are preferably selected from the group consisting of ethyl acetate, ethyl acetate diethyl esters ... and mixtures of these compounds.
[0112] Even more preferentially, the organic lipophilic thickener is a C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24Fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof, and better still C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 Esters of fatty acids and polyols, more particularly C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 It is selected from mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids and glycerol.
[0113] The lipophilic thickener may be present in an amount of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.2% by weight, more preferably at least 0.5% by weight, and / or in an amount of at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 3% by weight, more preferably at most 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] The amount of lipophilic thickener in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] (Hydrophobic surface treatment pigment) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic surface-treated pigment. Two or more hydrophobic surface-treated pigments may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophobic surface-treated pigment or a combination of different types of hydrophobic surface-treated pigments may be used.
[0116] The term "pigments" means white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous media and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition. These pigments may be white or colored and may be mineral and / or organic.
[0117] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used in the present invention are selected from mineral pigments. The term "mineral pigment" means any inorganic pigment. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of metal oxides, such as zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, titanium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, as well as manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, such as aluminum powder or copper powder, or any combination thereof. The following mineral pigments may also be used: TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, or Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in a mixture with ZnS. In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more specifically iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.
[0118] The average particle size of the coated pigments is generally 100 nm or more. The average particle size of the coated pigments according to the invention may range from 100 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm. For the purposes of the present invention, the D50 size or volume average size corresponds to a particle size defined such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size above D50. The volume average size can be evaluated by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser particle size analyzer, the particles being evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium, for example octyldodecyl neopentanoate.
[0119] The pigments may also be pearlescent and / or metallic particles. The term "pearlescent" should be understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are produced in particular by certain mollusks in their shells or are synthesized, and which have a color effect by optical interference.
[0120] The pearlescent agents can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxide and / or organic dye are superimposed.
[0121] The pigment of the present invention is hydrophobically surface-treated. In other words, the pigment of the present invention has a hydrophobic coating. The hydrophobic coating preferably comprises at least one hydrophobic compound selected from fatty substances, silicone surface agents, fluorinated surface agents, fluorosilicone surface agents, metal soaps, N-acylated amino acids and their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl titanium triisostearate, isostearyl sebacate, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
[0122] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic surface treated pigment is coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
[0123] The type of fatty substance is not limited: a single type of fatty substance or a combination of different types of fatty substances can be used.
[0124] As used herein, the term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound that is insoluble in water (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.1%) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Fatty substances may contain in their structure at least one consecutive siloxane group of at least two or at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least six carbon atoms. Fatty substances are generally lipophilic substances and may be soluble in organic solvents, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0125] In one embodiment, the fatty material is oil. As used herein, "oil" refers to any fatty material that is not in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Any oil suitable for cosmetic use can be used in the present invention. Suitable oils may include both volatile and non-volatile oils.
[0126] The fatty materials may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils and waxes, preferably from hydrocarbon oils and waxes.
[0127] The hydrocarbon oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.As used herein, "hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil that is linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile, and that mainly contains carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether or fluoro groups.Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable or mineral origin.
[0128] Examples of animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oils may include, but are not limited to, squalene, perhydrosqualene, and squalane.
[0129] The hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin may include oils known as vegetable oil or vegetable oil.Examples of hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin may include, but are not limited to, jojoba oil, avocado oil, olive oil, dog rose oil, sweet almond oil, coriander oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, almond oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sesame seed oil, canola oil, mango oil, walnut oil, poppy seed oil, barley oil, rye oil, and mixtures thereof.Among them, jojoba oil, especially jojoba seed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, especially olive fruit oil, dog rose oil, especially dog rose fruit oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] The hydrocarbon-based oil of mineral or synthetic origin may be volatile or non-volatile, and examples of such oils may include, but are not limited to, liquid paraffin, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum (mineral oil), hydrogenated isoparaffin or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, perhydrosqualene, polydecene, isohexadecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof. Among them, mineral oil can be used particularly preferably.
[0131] In one embodiment, the fatty material is a wax. As used herein, "wax" refers to a fatty material that is substantially solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and has a melting point of, for example, 30°C or higher. Representative examples of such waxes may include waxes of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin, such as candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, ouricle wax, sugarcane wax, paraffin wax, lanolin wax, montan wax, and ozokerite, hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene wax, and silicone waxes, such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxane or poly(di)methylsiloxane ester. Among them, preferably candelilla wax can be used.
[0132] The fatty materials may also be selected from fatty acids, synthetic esters and ethers, fatty alcohols and fatty amides.
[0133] Examples of fatty acids include C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, e.g. C 12 ~C 22 Saturated fatty acids, e.g. stearic acid; C 12 ~C 22 Unsaturated fatty acids may be included, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid; and mixtures thereof.
[0134] Examples of synthetic esters and ethers may include, but are not limited to, oils of the formula R1COOR2 and R1-OR2, where R1 represents a residue of a fatty acid or fatty alcohol containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, pureserin oil, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate or heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; or lipophilic derivatives of amino acids such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.
[0135] Other exemplary esters include, for example, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate (or octyl monococoate), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monococoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate ... propyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), isopropyl isostearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl pelargonate (or octyl pelargonate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), decyl oleate, diisopropyl adipate, bis(ethylhexyl) oleate, (2-Ethylhexyl) adipate (or dioctyl adipate), diisocetyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate (or octyl succinate), diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl malate (or octyl malate), pentaerythrityl caprate / caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate (or octyl hexanoate), octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate may include isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate (or octyl 2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl octanoate (or octyl octanoate), and cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate.
[0136] Fatty alcohols that may be useful in the present invention may be non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more specifically 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols that may be preferably used in the present invention are in liquid form or not solid at room temperature. Examples of fatty alcohols may include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, and linoleyl alcohol. Myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and myricyl alcohol may also be used.
[0137] Examples of fatty amides include isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.
[0138] The fatty material may also be a volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.The examples of the volatile or non-volatile silicone oil preferably used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, cyclopolydimethylsiloxane (cyclomethicone), such as cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, phenylsilicone, such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate and polymethylphenylsiloxane.
[0139] Fluoro oils that may be suitable for the present invention may include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and nonafluoromethoxybutane.
[0140] Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon-based oils, waxes and mixtures thereof of vegetable or mineral origin, more preferably selected from the group consisting of jojoba oil, in particular jojoba seed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, in particular olive fruit oil, rosehip oil, in particular rosehip fruit oil, candelilla wax and mixtures thereof.
[0141] The silicone surface agent may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. The term organopolysiloxane refers to compounds having a structure containing alternating silicon and oxygen atoms and containing organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms.
[0142] The fluorinated surface agent may be selected from perfluoroalkylphosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, or polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkylperfluoropolyether groups. The term perfluoroalkyl group refers to an alkyl group in which all hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms.
[0143] The fluorosilicone surface agent may be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes, and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxy silanes.
[0144] The hydrophobic compound may also be selected from metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate. Specific examples of metal soaps include metal soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal of the metal soap may in particular be zinc or magnesium. As metal soaps, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof may be used.
[0145] The hydrophobic compound may also be selected from N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, which may contain acyl groups having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl groups. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid derivative may be, in particular, any of glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, more specifically, stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
[0146] The amount of hydrophobic compound, preferably fatty substance, in the hydrophobic coating is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobic coating.
[0147] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic surface treated pigment is selected from pigments coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (i.e., the surface of the pigment is coated or treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate).
[0148] The hydrophobic surface-treated pigment can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Also, commercially available products can be used. The surface agent of isopropyl titanium triisostearate can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the surface of the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and formation of covalent bonds.
[0149] The hydrophobic surface treated pigment may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and / or in an amount of 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, more preferably 20% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0150] The amount of the hydrophobic surface treated pigment in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by mass, preferably from 5% to 25% by mass, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0151] (Nonionic surfactant) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant other than the nonionic silicone surfactant.Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.Therefore, a single type of nonionic surfactant or a combination of different types of nonionic surfactants may be used.
[0152] Nonionic surfactants are compounds known per se (see, in this respect, for example, "Handbook of Surfactants", MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, for example, they can be chosen from esters of alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acids, which compounds can be ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolized and have at least one fatty chain containing, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30. Mention can also be made of maltose derivatives. Also included, but not limited to, are copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides, for example containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides, for example containing 1.5 to 5, for example 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; glycerol (C6 to C7 24) alkyl polyglycosides, polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters; N-(C6-C 24 ) alkylglucamine derivatives; (C 10 ~C 14 ) alkylamine oxide or N-(C 10 ~C 14 ) amine oxides such as acylaminopropylmorpholine oxide; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
[0153] The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants, the oxyalkylene units being more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or combinations thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
[0154] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include: Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenols, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C 30 alcohol, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C 30 Amides, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 30 esters of acids and polyalkylene glycols; Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 30 Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of acids with sorbitol, Saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, Condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, especially alone or in mixtures. There is.
[0155] The surfactant preferably contains a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, most preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant does not contain any oxypropylene units.
[0156] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant is selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols) and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids).
[0157] Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C 30 Examples of the ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing 7 to 50 oxyethylene units, more particularly those containing 6 to 12 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-6 to Laureth-12); ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 5 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-5 to Beheneth-50); ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (mixtures of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 7 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-5 to Beheneth-50); ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 7 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names: ceteareth-7 to ceteareth-30); ethylene oxide adducts of stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 7 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names: steareth-7 to steareth-30); ethylene oxide adducts of isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 8 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names: isosteareth-8 to isosteareth-50), and mixtures thereof.
[0158] Examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants include monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C 40 Alcohol is preferably used.
[0159] In particular, monoglycerolized or polyglycerolized C8-C 40 The alcohol has the formula: RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O] m -H or RO-[CH(CHOH)-CHO] m -H (In the formula, R is a linear or branched C8-C 40 , preferably C8 to C 30 represents an alkyl group or an alkenyl group, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 1.5 to 10. is equivalent to.
[0160] As examples of compounds which are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
[0161] Just as the value of m represents a statistical value, the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols, which means that several types of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture in a commercial product.
[0162] C8 / C containing 1 mol of glycerol in monoglycerated or polyglycerated alcohols 10Alcohol, C containing 1 mol glycerol 10 / C 12 C containing alcohol and 1.5 mol of glycerol 12 It is preferred to use alcohol.
[0163] Monoglycerolized or polyglycerolized C8-C 40 The fatty ester has the formula: R'O-[CH2-CH(CH2OR''')-O] m -R" or R'O-[CH(CH2OR''')-CH2O] m -R" (In the formula, R', R'' and R''' each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C8 to C 40 , preferably C8 to C 30 represents an alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO- group, with the proviso that at least one of R', R'' and R''' is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30, preferably 1.5 to 10. It can be equivalent to.
[0164] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic esters and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA name: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 palmitostearate to PEG-50; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); 100 EO polyethylene glycol monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
[0165] According to one of the embodiments according to the invention, the nonionic surfactants are esters of polyols with fatty acids, for example with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, for example C8 to C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; sugars and C8 to C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 with one or more fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Fatty acids, preferably C 12 ~C 22As monoglyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be mentioned, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids with polyoxyalkylenated glycerols (mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, tristearate and / or triisostearate). Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of monoglyceryl esters of fatty acids contain 10 to 40 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
[0167] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate sold under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate sold under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate SE).
[0168] Fatty acids, preferably C8-C 22 Fatty acids, more preferably C 10 ~C 20Among the polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids (mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids with polyglycerol) there may be mentioned products containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 6 glycerol units, such as polyglyceryl laurate, oleate, myristic acid, caprylate or stearate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, such as polyglyceryl monolaurate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, ... polyglyceryl no(iso)stearate, polyglyceryl dioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dilaurate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dimyristate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl trimyristate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl trioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl tricaprylate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units.
[0169] C8~C 24 The sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives can be chosen from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids with alkoxylated sorbitans, for example containing 20 to 100 EOs, such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold under the name Span 60 by the company ICI, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold under the name Span 40 by the company ICI, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold under the name Tween 65 by the company ICI, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or the compounds sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by the company Uniqema.
[0170] As esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkylglucose, there are: glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for example methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for example methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, diesters of methylglucoside with oleic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose dioleate), mixed esters of methylglucoside with a mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose dioleate / hydroxystearate), esters of methylglucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose isostearate), esters of methylglucoside with lauric acid (CTFA name: methylglucose laurate), mixtures of mono- and diesters of methylglucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose sesquiisostearate), mixtures of mono- and diesters of methylglucoside with stearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose sesquistearate), in particular those under the name Glucate by the company AMERCHOL. The products available on the market under SS, as well as mixtures thereof, can be listed.
[0171] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with glucose or alkylglucose, there may be mentioned, for example, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with methylglucose, in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methylglucose distearate), for example the product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company AMERCHOL, polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono- and diesters of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate), in particular the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company AMERCHOL and Grillocose PSE-20 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof.
[0172] Sucrose esters include, for example, sucrose palmito-stearate, sucrose stearate, and sucrose monolaurate.
[0173] As sugar ethers, alkyl polyglucosides can be used, for example, sugar and C8-C alkyl polyglucosides, including decyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemical Co., the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic. 24 Ethers with fatty alcohols, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, lauryl glucoside, such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucosides, such as the products sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, Mention may in particular be made of arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols with arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic, cocoyl ethyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture with cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35 / 65), sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by the company Seppic, and mixtures thereof.
[0174] Mixtures of alkoxylated vegetable oil glycerides may also be mentioned, such as a mixture of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides.
[0175] The nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably an alkenyl or branched C 12 ~C 22 It contains acyl chains, for example oleyl or isostearyl groups.
[0176] According to one embodiment of the invention, the non-ionic surfactant is a copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular of the formula: HO(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b (C2H4O) c H (wherein a, b, and c are integers such that a+c is in the range of 2 to 100, and b is in the range of 14 to 60). and copolymers thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] The non-ionic surfactants of the present invention are preferably selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids.
[0178] In a preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant of the present invention is preferably a C8 to C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 It is selected from mono- or polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids. The fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and linear or branched, preferably branched. More preferably, the fatty acids are saturated and branched.
[0179] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol of the nonionic surfactant comprises at least one sugar alcohol. The sugar alcohol can be selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, arabitol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the sugar alcohol is sorbitol.
[0180] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant is a C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C22 More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from one or more saturated branched C8-C sorbitol esters of fatty acids. 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 sorbitol esters of fatty acids.
[0181] C8~C 24 The sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, and esters of fatty acids.
[0182] In one particular embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant of the present invention does not contain polyoxyalkylene units.
[0183] The nonionic surfactant may be present in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and / or in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0184] The amount of nonionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably from 0.3% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably from 0.5% by mass to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0185] aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the present invention contains at least (e) a polyol, (f) a monoalcohol, and (g) an anionic polymer. In addition to the components (e) to (g), the aqueous phase may contain an aqueous medium, i.e., water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
[0186] The amount of the aqueous phase is at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the aqueous phase may be up to 80% by weight, preferably up to 60% by weight, more preferably up to 50% by weight, even more preferably up to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0187] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and is water-miscible (miscible with more than 50% by weight of water at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).
[0188] In one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of water and alcohols, including monoalcohols and polyols, is at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of water and alcohols, including monoalcohols and polyols, may be at most 70% by weight, preferably at most 60% by weight, more preferably at most 50% by weight, even more preferably at most 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0189] (Polyol) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol. Two or more polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of polyol or a combination of different types of polyols may be used.
[0190] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule that contains at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0191] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds having at least two --OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.
[0192] Preferably, the polyols that may be used in the composition according to the invention are linear or branched, preferably linear alkyl type compounds having at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, preferably from 2 to 5 -OH functional groups, more preferably from 2 to 4 -OH functional groups, even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functional groups.
[0193] Polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are in particular those having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0194] The polyols that may be used according to the invention are chosen from linear or branched, preferably linear, polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular: diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, - Triols such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof Examples include:
[0195] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the amount of polyol in the composition is at least 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The polyol may be present in an amount of up to 30% by weight, preferably up to 25% by weight, more preferably up to 20% by weight, even more preferably up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0196] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol comprises at least one diol in combination with at least one polyol, in particular a triol, having three or more -OH functional groups. In this embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 3% by weight of a diol in combination with at least 3% by weight of a polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0197] In particular, the composition may comprise a combination of at least one diol and at least one triol. In this embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 3% by weight of the diol in combination with at least 3% by weight of the triol, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of the diol in the range of 1% to 20% by weight and an amount of the triol in the range of 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably an amount of the diol in the range of 2% to 15% by weight and an amount of the triol in the range of 2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably an amount of the diol in the range of 3% to 15% by weight and an amount of the triol in the range of 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0198] (Monoalcohol) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol in the aqueous phase. Two or more types of monoalcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monoalcohol or a combination of different types of monoalcohols may be used.
[0199] The monoalcohol forms the aqueous phase of the present invention. Thus, monoalcohol may refer herein to a hydrophilic monoalcohol that is water soluble. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" is used herein to mean a material that is water soluble at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 This means that the substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight (at 200 MPa, 1 Pa) based on the total weight of water.
[0200] The monoalcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol having only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group and having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0201] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0202] The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" as used herein means any linear or branched saturated alkane compound having only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.
[0203] The aliphatic monoalcohol present in the composition of the present invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.
[0204] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be selected from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0205] The amount of monoalcohol in the composition according to the invention may be at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 3% by weight, more preferably at least 5% by weight, and / or at most 20% by weight, preferably at most 15% by weight, more preferably at most 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0206] The amount of monoalcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by mass, preferably from 3% to 15% by mass, more preferably from 5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0207] (anionic polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic polymer. Two or more types of anionic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of anionic polymer or a combination of different types of anionic polymers may be used.
[0208] The anionic polymer is present in the aqueous phase of the present invention. Thus, the anionic polymer may be water soluble and hydrophilic, as used herein. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" is used herein to describe a material that is hydrophilic at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5"Soluble in water" means that the substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight (at 1 Pa) based on the total weight of water.
[0209] The anionic polymer has a positive charge density. When the anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, the charge density of the anionic polymer may be 0.1 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably 1 to 15 meq / g, more preferably 4 to 10 meq / g, and when the anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer, the average degree of substitution of the anionic polymer may be 0.1 to 3.0, preferably 0.2 to 2.7, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5.
[0210] It may be preferred that the molecular weight of the anionic polymer is 1,000 or more, preferably 5,000 or more, even more preferably 10,000 or more, even more preferably 15,000 or more, particularly 20,000 or more, and / or 1,000,000 or less, preferably 500,000 or less, more preferably 200,000 or less, even more preferably 100,000 or less, particularly 50,000 or less.
[0211] The molecular weight of the anionic polymer may preferably be in the range of 1,000 to 1,000,000, preferably 5,000 to 500,000, even more preferably 10,000 to 200,000, even more preferably 15,000 to 100,000, and particularly preferably 20,000 to 50,000.
[0212] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" can mean number average molecular weight.
[0213] The anionic polymer may have at least one negative charge and / or a moiety having a negative charge selected from the group consisting of sulfate groups, sulfate groups, sulfonic acid groups, sulfonate groups, phosphoric acid groups, phosphate groups, phosphonic acid groups, phosphonate groups, carboxylic acid groups, and carboxylate groups.
[0214] The anionic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, for example terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers.
[0215] The anionic polymer may be selected from natural and synthetic anionic polymers.
[0216] The anionic polymer may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain.
[0217] The anionic polymers, which may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain, can be obtained by copolymerizing a monomer (a) chosen from a carboxylic acid containing α,β-ethylenic unsaturation (monomer a′) and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (monomer a″) with a non-surface-active monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation other than (a) (b) and / or a monomer (c) containing ethylenic unsaturation resulting from reacting an acrylic monomer containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation or an isocyanate monomer containing monoethylenic unsaturation with a monovalent nonionic amphiphilic component or a primary or secondary fatty amine.
[0218] Therefore, anionic polymers having at least one hydrophobic chain can be synthesized by the following two routes: - copolymerization of the monomers (a') and (c), or (a'), (b) and (c), or (a''), (c), or (a''), (b) and (c), or modification (e.g. esterification or amidation) of monomer (a') or of copolymers formed from monomers (a') and (b) or (a'') and (b) with monovalent non-ionic amphiphilic compounds or primary or secondary fatty amines. It can be obtained by either
[0219] As 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, mention may be made in particular of those disclosed in the article "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, pp. 3694 to 3704" and in applications EP-A-0750899 and EP-A-1069172.
[0220] The carboxylic acid containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation constituting monomer (a′) can be chosen from a large number of acids, in particular from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, and is preferably acrylic acid or methacrylic acid.
[0221] The copolymer may also contain a monomer (b) containing monoethylenic unsaturation that does not have surfactant properties. Preferred monomers are those which, when homopolymerized, result in a water-insoluble polymer. These can be selected, for example, from acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylates (C1-C4), such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylates. More specifically, preferred monomers are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. Other monomers which may be used are, for example, styrene, vinyl toluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, these monomers being those in which a single ethylenic group is the only group that is reactive under the polymerization conditions. However, monomers containing groups which react under the action of heat, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, can optionally be used.
[0222] Monomer (c) is obtained by reacting an acrylic monomer containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as (a), or an isocyanate monomer containing monoethylenic unsaturation, with a monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.
[0223] The monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compounds or primary or secondary fatty amines used to produce the nonionic monomers (c) are well known. The monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compounds are generally alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds with alkylene oxides forming the hydrophilic portion of the molecule. The hydrophobic compounds are generally composed of aliphatic alcohols or alkylphenols, in which a carbonaceous chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic portion of the amphiphilic compound.
[0224] Preferred monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compounds have the following formula (V): R-(OCH2CHR') m -(OCH2CH2) n -OH (V) wherein R is selected from alkyl or alkylene groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and alkylaryl groups having an alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R' is selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; n is an average number ranging from about 1 to 150; and m is an average number ranging from about 0 to 50, with the proviso that n is at least as large as m. It is a compound having the formula:
[0225] Preferably, in the compounds of formula (V), the R group is an alkyl group containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms and the alkyl group is a C8-C 13 wherein R′ is a methyl group, m=0, and n=1 to 25.
[0226] Preferred primary and secondary fatty amines are composed of one or two alkyl chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0227] The monomers used to form the nonionic urethane monomer (c) can be selected from a wide variety of compounds. Any compound containing copolymerizable unsaturation, such as acrylic, methacrylic or allylic unsaturation, may be used. Monomer (c) can be obtained in particular from isocyanates containing monoethylenic unsaturation, such as in particular α,α-dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate.
[0228] The monomers (c) are in particular oxyethylenated (1 to 50 EO) C6-C 30 Acrylates, methacrylates or itaconates of fatty alcohols, such as steareth-20 methacrylate, oxyethylenated (25EO) behenyl methacrylate, oxyethylenated (20EO) monocetyl itaconate, oxyethylenated (20EO) monostearyl itaconate or polyoxyethylenated (25EO) C 12 ~C 24 From alcohol modified acrylates and oxyethylenated (1 to 50 EO) C6 to C 30 It may be chosen from the dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanates of fatty alcohols, such as in particular the dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol.
[0229] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic polymer is selected from an acrylic terpolymer derived from (a) a carboxylic acid containing α,β-ethylenic unsaturation, (b) a non-surface active monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation other than (a), and (c) a nonionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compound with an isocyanate containing monoethylenic unsaturation.
[0230] Examples of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain include, in particular, acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Acusol 823 by Rohm & Haas; acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas; (meth)acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylated (25EO) behenyl methacrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold as an aqueous emulsion under the name Aculyn 28 by Rohm & Haas; acrylic acid / oxyethylated (20EO) monocetyl itaconate copolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch; acrylic acid / oxyethylated (20EO) monostearyl itaconate copolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch. Product sold in 2001 as a 30% aqueous dispersion; Acrylate / Polyoxyethylenated (25EO)C 12 ~C 24 Mention may be made of copolymers of acrylates modified with alcohols, such as the 30-32% copolymer latex sold under the name Synthalen W2000 by the company 3V SA; or the terpolymers of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol with dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate, such as the product disclosed in document EP-A-0173109 as a 24% aqueous dispersion containing 40 ethylene oxide groups.
[0231] The anionic polymer may also be polyester-5, for example the product sold under the name Eastman AQ™ 55S Polymer by EASTMAN CHEMICAL, having the following chemical formula:
[0232] [ka]
[0233] A: Dicarboxylic acid moiety G: glycol moiety SO3 - Na + : Sodium sulfo group OH: Hydroxyl group
[0234] It may be preferred that the anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids, such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamine acids, (co)polystyrenesulfonate, (co)poly(vinylsulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, (co)polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof.
[0235] The maleic acid copolymers may comprise one or more maleic acid comonomers and one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinyl pyrrolidone, olefins containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and styrene.
[0236] Thus, "maleic copolymer" is understood to mean any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic comonomers with one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene or isooctylene, and styrene, the maleic comonomers being optionally partially or completely hydrolyzed. Preferably, hydrophilic polymers are used, i.e. polymers with a water solubility of 2 g / l or more.
[0237] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the maleic copolymer may have a molar fraction of maleic units between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.
[0238] The weight average molar mass of the maleic acid copolymers may be between 1,000 and 500,000, preferably between 1,000 and 50,000.
[0239] It is preferred that the maleic acid copolymer is a styrene / maleic acid copolymer, more preferably a sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer.
[0240] Preferably, a copolymer of styrene and maleic acid in a 50 / 50 ratio is used.
[0241] For example, a styrene / maleic acid (50 / 50) copolymer in the form of its ammonium salt at 30% in water, sold under the reference SMA1000H® by the company Cray Valley, or a styrene / maleic acid (50 / 50) copolymer in the form of its sodium salt at 40% in water, sold under the reference SMA1000HNa® by the company Cray Valley, may be used.
[0242] The use of styrene / maleic acid copolymers, such as sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer, can improve the wettability of coatings prepared with the compositions according to the invention.
[0243] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the anionic polymer is preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives.
[0244] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula:
[0245] [ka]
[0246] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" specifically encompasses the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of the formula:
[0247] [ka]
[0248] It is the smallest part of hyaluronic acid, containing a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0249] The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, linear polymers comprising the above polymer units linked together in a chain via alternating β(1,4) and β(1,3) glycosidic bonds, with a molecular weight (MW) that can range between 380 and 1,000,000 Daltons, which depends mainly on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the preparation method.
[0250] The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" in the context of the present invention also includes hyaluronic acid salts, which may include alkali metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0251] In nature, hyaluronic acid is found in the percellular gel in the matrix of connective tissues of vertebrate organs, such as the dermis and epithelial tissues, specifically in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid of joints, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord, and in the crest process.
[0252] Therefore, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" includes all fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid, especially those having molecular weights within the molecular weight ranges envisaged above.
[0253] In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions that do not have inflammatory activity.
[0254] As an example of the various hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the article "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) pp. 699-715, which reviews the enumerated biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.
[0255] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fraction suitable for use within the scope of the present invention has a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da, which is the so-called low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
[0256] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic acid groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols, containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5 to 50%.
[0257] Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters are described in detail in D. Campoccia et al., "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) pp. 2101-2127.
[0258] The hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.
[0259] The molecular weights given above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.
[0260] The amount of anionic polymer in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0261] The amount of anionic polymer in the composition according to the invention may be up to 20% by weight, preferably up to 15% by weight, more preferably up to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0262] The amount of anionic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by mass, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0263] (Other ingredients) - oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil in the oily phase. Two or more types of oil may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil may be used or a combination of different types of oil may be used.
[0264] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and at room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, either alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0265] Among the oils that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of volatile or non-volatile oils, which may be hydrocarbon-based oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, or mixtures thereof.
[0266] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil that contains mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oils do not contain any silicon atoms.
[0267] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0268] For the purposes of this invention, a "polar oil" is an oil having a solubility parameter δ a is 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is intended to mean oils other than those.
[0269] In particular, "polar oil" is intended to mean an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which contains at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
[0270] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space is described in the article by CM Hansen, "The three-dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol, Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).
[0271] According to this Hansen space, - δ D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, - δp characterizes the Debye interaction between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction between induced and permanent dipoles, - δ h characterize specific interaction forces (hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds, etc.) - δ a is expressed by the following formula: δ a = (δ p 2 +δ h 2 ) 1 / 2 is determined by.
[0272] Parameter δp , δ h , δ D and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:
[0273] Preferably, the polar oil used according to the invention has a δ between 4 and 9.1 a , preferably δ between 6 and 9.1 a , and even better, δ between 7.3 and 9.1 a has.
[0274] The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil, a polar oil, such as a vegetable or animal oil, and an ester or ether oil, or a mixture thereof.
[0275] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
[0276] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0277] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0278] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils other than alkyl or alkylene carbonates, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0279] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26It is a liquid ester with an aliphatic monoalcohol or polyalcohol, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.
[0280] Preferably, in the case of esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0281] Ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols may be represented by the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably linear, fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents an essentially branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is ≧10.
[0282] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0283] The ester oil is preferably selected from fatty acid ester oils.
[0284] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0285] In particular, mention may be made of diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl sebacate); diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0286] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It should be remembered that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing some alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0287] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0288] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids, which, when unsaturated, can have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0289] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0290] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristic acid, behenic acid, coconut acid, stearate, linoleate, linolenic acid, capric acid and arachidic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0291] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose.
[0292] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0293] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0294] As ether oils, dialkyl ethers, for example those of the formula: R 1 -OR 2 (In the formula, R 1 and R 2 Each of is independently a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C 24 Alkyl group, preferably C6-C 18 Alkyl groups, more preferably C8 to C 12 (Indicates an alkyl group) Represented by R 1 and R 2 are preferably the same.
[0295] Examples of the linear alkyl group include a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, a undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and a tetracosyl group.
[0296] Branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, t-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyl, and 2-hexyl groups. Examples of such alkyl groups include xyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, 3,7-dimethyloctyl, and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl.
[0297] Examples of the cyclic alkyl group include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0298] Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0299] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like, and mixtures thereof.
[0300] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes or dimethicones, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.
[0301] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups linked via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0302] Organopolysiloxanes are more fully defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll, Academic Press (1968). They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
[0303] If volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly from the following: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, for example Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, of the formula:
[0304] [ka]
[0305] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a molecular weight of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2Linear, volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 10000 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Annex C.
[0306] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of the polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0307] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercially available products are available: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as for example the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the Mirasil® series of oils sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g. 60 000mm 2 / s viscosity, and - Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18) may be mentioned in a non-limiting manner.
[0308] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.
[0309] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of the polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oils.
[0310] Phenyl silicone oils have the formula:
[0311] [ka]
[0312] (In the formula, R1~R 10 are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 Hydrocarbon group, preferably C1-C 12 a hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C1 to C6 hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group; m, n, p, and q each independently represent an integer of 0 to 900, inclusive, preferably 0 to 500, inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100, inclusive; However, the sum of n+m+q is not 0.) The phenyl silicones may be selected from the following:
[0313] Examples that may be mentioned include the following names: - Rhodia Silbione® oils, series 70 641; Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia, - Dow Corning oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, - PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20, - Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265 There are products sold at.
[0314] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (wherein R1 to R 10 is methyl, p, q and n=0, and m=1).
[0315] The organically modified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Thus, silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide may be mentioned.
[0316] Hydrocarbon oils include the following: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane, and - Alkanes, e.g. mixtures of C9-12 alkanes, C10-13 alkanes, C13-14 alkanes, C13-15 alkanes, C14-17 alkanes, C14-19 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, C18-21 alkanes, C8-9 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-10 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-11 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-16 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C10-12 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-14 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-15 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C12-13 alkanes / cycloalkanes may be selected from:
[0317] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0318] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 8 or more, preferably 10 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohol. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
[0319] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl groups. R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0320] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0321] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0322] Thus, fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C 10 ~C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 Alcohol can be selected.
[0323] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. A saturated fatty alcohol is any linear or branched, saturated C-C 30 It is preferably selected from fatty alcohols. Linear or branched, saturated C8-C 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols may be preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols are more preferably used. 16 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols may even more preferably be used.
[0324] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.
[0325] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohols used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0326] It is also preferred that the oil is chosen from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0327] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and is composed of short chain hydrocarbons (C1 to C 12 ), ester oils (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols (C 12 ~C 30 ) type oils, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0328] The oil is preferably selected from polar oils, more preferably from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof. It is further preferred that the oil comprises both ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols of formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a residue of a linear fatty acid containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and fatty alcohols having the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated branched groups containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0329] The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention may be at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, and / or at most 50% by weight, preferably at most 40% by weight, more preferably at most 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0330] The amount of oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 5% to 40% by mass, preferably from 10% to 40% by mass, more preferably from 15% to 35% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0331] - water The composition according to the invention preferably comprises water in the aqueous phase.
[0332] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention may be at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, and / or at most 50% by weight, preferably at most 40% by weight, more preferably at most 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0333] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 5% to 50% by mass, preferably from 10% to 40% by mass, and more preferably from 15% to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0334] - Thickening agent The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicone and alkyl or alkylene carbonate.Two or more thickening aids may be used in combination.Therefore, a single type of thickening aid or a combination of different types of thickening aids may be used.
[0335] The thickening aid of the present invention may be included in the oil phase and is used to assist lipophilic or oil-based thickeners, such as spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels, to achieve good stability.
[0336] The thickening aid may be selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates.
[0337] - Polyoxyalkylenated silicone A single type of polyoxyalkylenated silicone or a combination of different types of polyoxyalkylenated silicones can be used in the compositions according to the present invention.
[0338] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylenated silicone" means any silicone that contains at least one oxyalkylenated unit.
[0339] The oxyalkylenated units in the polyoxyalkylenated silicone are each an oxygen atom and a linear or branched C2-C 10 It may also be a polyoxyalkylene group containing alternating alkylene groups, preferably C2 to C6 alkylene groups, more preferentially C2 and / or C3 (ethylene and propylene, respectively) alkylene groups. The oxyalkylenated units are (-C x H 2x O-) a (wherein x ranges from 2 to 6, and a is equal to or greater than 2). Preferably, the oxyalkylenated units are oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
[0340] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone preferably contains a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 2 and 100, more preferably between 3 and 50, even more preferably between 4 and 40. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone does not contain any oxypropylene units.
[0341] In one embodiment, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone contains 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, preferably 3 to 40 oxyethylene units, more preferably 4 to 30 oxyethylene units, and even more preferably 5 to 20 oxyethylene units.
[0342] In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone comprises a dimethicone copolyol, which is a polyorganosiloxane containing oxyalkylenated units, such as polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy moieties.
[0343] The polyoxyalkylenated units of the polyoxyalkylenated silicone may be substituted with at least one alkyl group and / or amine group. The alkyl group may be a linear or branched C1-C 30 Chain, preferably C4-C 22 The substituted amine moiety may be selected, for example, from amino C1-C4 alkyl moieties.
[0344] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone has the formula (I):
[0345] [ka]
[0346] [In the formula, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently a C1 to C6 alkyl group or -(CH2) x -(OCH2CH2) y -(OCH2CH2CH2) z represents an -OR group, where at least one R, R or R group is not an alkyl group, and R is hydrogen, an alkyl group or an acyl group; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, with the proviso that A and B are not both equal to 0; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5. It may also be a compound of the formula:
[0347] According to one embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0348] Examples of polyoxyalkylenated silicones of formula (I) that may be mentioned are those of formula (II):
[0349] [ka]
[0350] (In the formula, A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10, and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.) It is a compound of the formula:
[0351] As examples of polyoxyalkylenated silicones of formula (I), mention may also be made of those of formula (III): H-(OCH2CH2) y -(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO] A' -(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2) y -OH (III) (In the formula, A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.) It is also a compound of
[0352] The polyoxyalkylenated silicones of the invention that may be used are those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) where A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12, respectively. Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) where A is 15 and y is 13.
[0353] Commercially available products of dimethicone copolyols include, for example, PEG 10 dimethicone and PEG 14 dimethicone, PEG 12 dimethicone sold under the trade name XIAMETER® OFX-0193 FLUID by DOW CORNING, PEG / PPG 18 / 18 dimethicone silicone sold under the name 5225C by Dow Corning, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone silicone as proposed by Evonik under the name ABIL EM 90, and other dimethicone copolyols.
[0354] - Alkyl or alkylene carbonate A single type of alkyl or alkylene carbonate or a combination of different types of alkyl or alkylene carbonates can be used in the compositions according to the present invention.
[0355] According to one embodiment, the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonate and / or the alkyl group of the alkyl carbonate present in the composition according to the invention contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and are ultimately substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0356] According to another embodiment, the sum of the carbons of the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonate and / or the sum of the carbons of the alkyl group of the alkyl carbonate present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0357] The alkylene carbonates are in particular chosen from those of formula (4):
[0358] [ka]
[0359] [In formula (4), R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; R" represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; m is 1, 2 or 3.
[0360] Preferably, the R' group represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, a linear or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0361] R" represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C2 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1 to C2 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0362] Preferably, m is 1.
[0363] Particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates include those in which the R' group represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), an ethyl group (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate) or a hydroxymethyl group (R'=-CHOH; corresponding to glyceryl carbonate).
[0364] Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.
[0365] Alkyl carbonates are in particular: R'-O-C-O-R'' [In formula (5), R' represents a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; R" represents a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; The sum of the carbons of R' and R'' ranges from 2 to 6. The formula (5) is selected from the above.
[0366] Preferably, the R' group represents a linear C1-C3 alkyl group or a linear C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0367] R" represents a linear C1 to C3 alkyl group or a linear C1 to C2 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0368] More specifically, diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate can be mentioned.
[0369] The carbonate according to the invention is preferably an alkylene carbonate, more particularly propylene carbonate.
[0370] The thickening aid may be present in an amount of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, and / or in an amount of at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, more preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0371] The amount of thickening aid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by mass, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0372] - Film-forming polymers The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer. Two or more film-forming polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of film-forming polymer or a combination of different types of film-forming polymers may be used.
[0373] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" refers to a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units, which units are derived from compounds known as monomers, which or these units are repeated at least twice, and preferably at least three times.
[0374] The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of a film-forming auxiliary, a macroscopically continuous thin film that adheres to a support, in particular to keratinous materials, preferably an adherent thin film, and even better, a thin film having such adhesion and mechanical properties that it is separable and manipulable in the separated state, for example when the thin film is prepared by pouring it onto a non-sticky surface (for example a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface).
[0375] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming polymer may be selected from the group comprising: - film-forming polymers that are soluble in organic solvent media, in particular liposoluble polymers, which means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and forms a single homogeneous phase when it is incorporated in the medium. - film-forming polymers that are dispersible in organic solvent media, meaning that they form an insoluble phase in the organic medium and that they remain stable and / or miscible once incorporated in this medium. In particular, such polymers may be in the form of a non-aqueous dispersion of polymer particles, preferably in a silicone-based oil or a hydrocarbon-based oil; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous dispersion of polymer comprises polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are often referred to as "NAD". - film-forming polymers in the form of an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles, which means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in water, that the polymer remains stable and / or miscible once incorporated in water, and that the polymer particles are possibly stabilized at their surface with at least one stabilizer. These polymer particles are often called "lattices"; in this case the composition must contain an aqueous phase.
[0376] Preferably, the film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyamide-silicone block polymers, ethylenic block polymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carboxiloxane dendrimer derivative, copolymers comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups, silicone resins, oil-dispersible polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, olefin copolymers selected from amorphous olefin copolymers and olefin copolymers with controlled moderate crystallization, hydrocarbon-based resins having a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / ml or less, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from silicone resins.
[0377] The film-forming silicone resin may be any silicone resin that has film-forming properties.
[0378] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin may be selected from silsesquioxanes, siloxysilicates and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation.
[0379] Silicone resin nomenclature is known in the art under the name "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby silicone resins are described by the various repeating siloxane monomer moieties that make up the polymer, with each letter in "MDTQ" representing a different type of moiety.
[0380] The symbol "M" stands for the monofunctional moiety (CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 This moiety is considered monofunctional because the silicon atoms share only one oxygen for the formation of a chain. The "M" moiety can be represented by the following structure:
[0381] [ka]
[0382] At least one of the methyl groups may, for example, be of the formula: [R(CH3)2]SiO 1 / 2 For example, a moiety having the following structure:
[0383] [ka]
[0384] (wherein R is other than a methyl group). can be substituted to produce a portion represented by:
[0385] The symbol "D" represents the difunctional moiety (CH3)SiO 2 / 2 and two of the available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of a polymer chain. The "D" portion is an essential component of dimethicone oil and can be represented by the following formula:
[0386] [ka]
[0387] The symbol “T” is the trifunctional moiety (CH3)SiO 3 / 2 where three of the available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The "T" portion can be represented by the following structure:
[0388] [ka]
[0389] As in the "M" moiety, in a "D" or "T", any one of the methyl groups may be replaced with an R group other than methyl.
[0390] Finally, the symbol "Q" represents the tetrafunctional moiety SiO 4 / 2 where all four available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of polymer chains. The "Q" moiety can be represented by the following structure:
[0391] [ka]
[0392] As mentioned above, in one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin may be selected from siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane and hydroxysilylation resin.Any siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane or hydroxysilylation resin that acts as a film-forming agent can be used in the composition of the present invention.The film-forming silicone resin is preferably crosslinked.
[0393] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin may be selected from substituted siloxysilicates, silsesquioxanes and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation.Substituted siloxysilicates or substituted silsesquioxanes may be, for example, siloxysilicates or silsesquioxanes in which methyl groups are replaced by longer carbon chains, such as ethane, propane or butane chains.The carbon chains may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0394] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin is a siloxysilicate, such as a silicone resin having the following formula: [(CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 ] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (MQ part) (wherein x and y may have values ranging from 20 to 100, preferably from 50 to 80). The MQ resin may be selected from those represented by:
[0395] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the siloxysilicates include all combinations of M and Q moieties, such as [(R)Si] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (Wherein, R is a methyl group and C2 to C 10 The alkyl group may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl groups having longer carbon chain lengths.
[0396] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin has the following formula: (CHSiO 3 / 2 ) x (T part) where x has a value that can range up to several thousand and CH3 can be replaced with R, e.g., those described above for the T moiety. The silsesquioxane may be selected from silsesquioxanes represented by:
[0397] Most preferably, the film-forming silicone resin is a trimethylsiloxysilicate, such as that sold under the designation SR 1000 MQ resin by Momentive Performance Materials.
[0398] The film-forming polymer may be present in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, even more preferably 5% by weight or more, and / or 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and most preferably 8% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0399] The amount of the film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0400] - Filler The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one filler other than (a) the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, (b) at least one oleophilic thickener, and (c) the hydrophobic surface-treated pigment. Two or more fillers may be combined. The filler may be inorganic or organic, preferably inorganic.
[0401] Inorganic fillers can include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, titanium dioxide, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metal soaps, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally with a hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment.
[0402] The inorganic filler may be a composite silica particle. In the context of the present invention, the term "composite silica particle" refers to a silica particle that contains a functional compound, preferably a metal oxide. Therefore, preferably, the composite silica particle can be referred to as a "metal oxide-containing silica particle". Most preferably, the metal oxide is dispersed in the silica particle.
[0403] The metal oxide may be preferably selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and zirconium oxide, or mixtures thereof, more particularly titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, titanium dioxide can be used. In this embodiment, composite silica particles refer to silica (and) titanium dioxide.
[0404] The composite silica particles may have an average particle size determined by image analysis of 0.1 μm or more, preferably 0.5 μm or more, more preferably 1 μm or more, and 50 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 12 μm or less.
[0405] The "average particle size" can be determined according to the following procedure: the particle sizes of 50 particles are measured using SEM images and the average particle size is calculated.
[0406] The composite silica particles may be porous or non-porous, and may have a low oil absorption capacity.
[0407] In the composite silica particles, the mass ratio of silica to functional compound (preferably a metal oxide, most preferably titanium dioxide) may be from 9:1 to 5:5, preferably from 4:1 to 3:2, more preferably 7:3.
[0408] The composite silica particles may be surface treated to render them hydrophobic, for example, by treating the composite silica particles with an alkylsilane.
[0409] According to the invention, the inorganic filler may be surface-treated with at least one silicone oil and / or at least one non-silicone oil.
[0410] The organic filler may include acrylic polymer powder, silicone powder, wax powder, polyamide powder, urethane polymer powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, polyacrylonitrile powder, poly-β-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, cellulose powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0411] (Meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powders can include, for example, polymethyl methacrylate crosspolymer, methyl methacrylate / glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder.
[0412] Among the polyamide powders, mention may be made of those sold under the name "Orgasol" by the company Atochem. These polyamide powder particles are further known for their different physicochemical properties under the names "Nylon 12" or "Nylon 6". The polyamide powders useful in the present invention may also include those sold under the name SP500 by Toray Industries, Inc.
[0413] The filler may be present in the composition in a content of at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in a content of at most 30% by weight, preferably at most 25% by weight, more preferably at most 20% by weight.
[0414] The amount of filler in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by mass, preferably from 5% to 25% by mass, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0415] - Skin care actives The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one skin care active agent. If two or more skin care active agents are used, these may be the same or different.
[0416] Preferably, the skin care active is a skin care cosmetic active, more preferably a skin peeling agent, a skin whitening agent, or a skin anti-aging agent, such as an anti-wrinkle agent.
[0417] Skin care actives can include vitamin B3 and derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.
[0418] The skin care active may be present in the composition in an amount of at least 0.3% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 3% by weight, and at most 15% by weight, preferably at most 10% by weight, more preferably at most 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0419] The amount of skin care active in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0420] - Additives The compositions according to the invention may also comprise any other optional additives commonly used in the cosmetic field and selected, for example, from cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, hydrophobic organic solvents, gums, dyes, resins, thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, fragrances, neutralizing agents, pH adjusters, disinfectants, other cosmetic actives, vitamins such as tocopherol, moisturizers, chelating agents, emollients or collagen protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0421] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above-mentioned essential components and optional components in a conventional manner. If at least one of the above components is solid at room temperature, it can be heated until it dissolves. It can further include the steps of mixing any of the optional components and heating the composition until the components dissolve.
[0422] [Beauty method] The composition according to the invention is intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. It may therefore be intended for application to keratinous materials, such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, mucous membranes, such as the lips and the nails, in particular the skin, such as the skin of the face.
[0423] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a skin make-up composition or a skin care composition, more preferably a skin make-up composition, especially a foundation.
[0424] The present invention therefore also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method or process for the care and / or conditioning of keratinous materials, comprising: The method comprises the step of applying to keratinous materials, such as the skin, scalp and lips, in particular to facial skin, a composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, the composition comprising: (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophobic surface treated pigment; (d) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids; (e) at least one polyol; (f) at least one monoalcohol, and (g) at least one anionic polymer wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 30% or more by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0425] The same explanations given for the composition, (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, (b) at least one oleophilic thickener, (c) at least one hydrophobic surface-treated pigment, (d) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids, (e) at least one polyol, (f) at least one monoalcohol, and (g) at least one anionic polymer, can also be applied to the explanation for the process according to the invention. The composition used in the process according to the invention can contain any of the optional components described above for the composition according to the invention. EXAMPLES
[0426] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0427] Method for preparing W / O type foundation compositions of the present invention and comparative examples The ingredients listed as A1 in Tables 1 and 2 were thoroughly mixed at 45°C. Then, the disteardimonium hectorite listed as A2 was added, and these were mixed using a Moritz homogenizer at 3,500 rpm for 5 minutes at 45°C. The ingredients listed as C were added, and mixed at 3,500 rpm for 10 minutes at 45°C. The mixture of ingredients was cooled to 25°C. The ingredients listed as D were added, and mixed at 3,000 rpm for 2 minutes at room temperature, and then the ingredients listed as E were added, and dispersed at 2,000 rpm for 5 minutes at room temperature to obtain an emulsion composition.
[0428] Spherical silylated silica aerogel was obtained from Tokuyama Co., Ltd. and had an average primary particle size of 10 μm, an average circularity of 0.88, and a diameter of 592 mm. 2 / g BET specific surface area, pore volume of 4.0 ml / g determined by the BJH method, oil absorption capacity of 6.8 mL / g measured according to JIS-K6217-4, and peak pore radius of 20 nm determined by the BJH method.
[0429] evaluation [Texture evaluation] Ten expert panelists evaluated the sensory aspects of "fresh feeling", "moisture feeling" and "moisture durability" according to the following criteria: "fresh feeling" was evaluated while the composition was applied to the face. "moisture feeling" was evaluated 5 minutes after the composition was applied to the face. "moisture durability" was evaluated 6 hours after the composition was applied to the face.
[0430] (Moisturizing feeling) Excellent: All five expert panelists felt a sense of moisture. Very good: Four out of five expert panelists felt a sense of moisture. Good: Three out of five expert panelists felt a sense of moisture. Normal: Two of the five expert panelists felt a sense of moisture. Poor: 0 to 1 of the 5 expert panelists felt a sense of moisture.
[0431] (Fresh sensation) Excellent: All five expert panelists felt a refreshing sensation. Very good: Four out of five expert panelists felt a refreshing sensation. Good: Three out of five expert panelists felt a refreshing sensation. Average: Two of the five expert panelists felt a refreshing sensation. Poor: 0 to 1 of the 5 expert panelists felt a refreshing sensation.
[0432] (Long-lasting moisture) Excellent: All five expert panelists felt moisturized 6 hours after application. Very good: 4 out of 5 expert panelists felt moisturized 6 hours after application. Good: Three out of five expert panelists felt moisturized six hours after application. Average: Two out of five expert panelists felt moisturized six hours after application. Poor: 0 to 1 of 5 expert panelists felt moisturized 6 hours after application.
[0433] [Stability] (Centrifugal separation test) A centrifugation test was used to determine the stability of the formulations in the above compositions. Separation after centrifugation indicates instability and is therefore generally undesirable. 7 mL of each composition was transferred to a 15 mL plastic centrifuge tube. The samples were centrifuged at 3000 rpm for 60 minutes using a KUBOTA Compact Tabletop Centrifuge 2420. The samples were then evaluated for oil separation according to the following criteria: "N / A" in the table indicates that the test result was not applicable. Very good: no separation observed over 2 months and viscosity decreased. Good: No separation was observed and no decrease in viscosity was observed for one month. Normal: No separation was observed for one month, and the viscosity decreased. Poor: Separation observed the next day.
[0434] (Vibration test) A vibration test was used to determine the stability of the pigment in the above formulations. Streaks of pigment on the inside of the glass bottle indicate pigment instability in the formulation and are therefore generally undesirable. Each composition was filled into a 50 mL glass bottle and placed in a 45°C incubator overnight. The samples were placed directly under vibration using an AS ONE Neo-Shaker NS-LR at 180 rpm for 60 minutes. The samples were then evaluated for pigment aggregation by observing the appearance of the samples. "N / A" in the table indicates that the test result was not applicable. Excellent: No pigment streaks or dots observed. Very good: very small pigment dots observed. Good: Small pigment dots observed. Fair: Pigment streaks observed. Poor: Pigment staining was observed.
[0435] The results are shown in Table 1 and Table 2.
[0436] [Table 1A]
[0437] [Table 1B]
[0438] [Table 2A]
[0439] [Table 2B]
[0440] As shown in Tables 1 and 2 above, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6, which contain a combination of components (a) to (g) and an aqueous phase in an amount of 30% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition, exhibited good sensory properties in terms of "fresh feeling," "moisture feeling," and "moisture sustainedness." In addition, these compositions exhibited good stability due to the dispersibility of the pigment.
[0441] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not contain the nonionic surfactant of the present invention, showed poor sensory properties and pigment stability. The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not contain the hydrophobic surface-treated pigment, showed poor phase and pigment stability. The composition according to Comparative Example 3, which did not contain the monoalcohol, showed poor sensory properties and phase stability, as well as poor pigment stability. The composition according to Comparative Example 4, which did not contain the anionic polymer, did not provide an improved fresh sensation. The composition according to Comparative Example 5, which did not contain the anionic polymer and contained less than 30% by weight of aqueous phase, showed poor sensory properties. The composition according to Comparative Example 6, which did not contain the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention, showed poor moisture retention. The composition according to Comparative Example 7, which contained less than 30% by weight of aqueous phase, did not provide a sufficient fresh sensation.
[0442] It can therefore be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is of great benefit since it can provide excellent cosmetic properties such as providing a refreshing and moisturizing feeling, as well as good moisture retention, while showing good formulation stability.The composition according to the present invention is therefore very useful as a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as the skin, in particular as a foundation.
Claims
1. A cosmetic emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophobic surface-treated pigment; (d) at least one nonionic surfactant other than a nonionic silicone surfactant; (e) at least one polyol; (f) at least one monoalcohol, and (g) at least one anionic polymer wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 30% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
2. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is a spherical hydrophobic aerogel of silica silylate.
3. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel has an average circularity of 0.8 or more and less than 1 as determined by image analysis.
4. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipophilic thickener is selected from mineral lipophilic thickeners.
5. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic surface-treated pigment is coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
6. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyol comprises at least one diol in combination with at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups.
7. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyol comprises, in combination, at least 3% by weight of at least one diol and at least 3% by weight of at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, based on the total weight of the composition.
8. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the number average molecular weight of the anionic polymer is in the range of 1,000 to 1,000,000.
9. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, anionic (co)polyamino acids, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acids, (co)polyamine acids, (co)polystyrene sulfonates, (co)poly(vinyl sulfates), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acids, (co)polyfumaric acids, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, and salts thereof.
11. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids.
12. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one film-forming polymer.
13. 10. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates.
14. The composition of claim 1, which is a skin makeup or skin care composition.
15. A cosmetic method for keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratinous materials.