Cosmetic emulsion composition comprising spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel for fresh refreshing feeling
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022200279
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-12-15
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-25
AI Technical Summary
There is a need for cosmetic compositions that provide a fresh, refreshing feeling and long-lasting moisturizing effect while maintaining good stability.
A cosmetic emulsion composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, containing spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, a thickening agent, a film-forming polymer, a polyol, and an anionic polymer, with the aqueous phase accounting for at least 40% of the total weight, and specific properties of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel such as high porosity and circularity, ensuring stability and sensory benefits.
The composition provides a long-lasting moisturizing and refreshing sensation to keratin materials like the skin, while maintaining stability and offering a smooth application experience.
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel for a fresh and refreshing sensation. [Background technology]
[0002] Providing a fresh and refreshing feeling to keratinous materials such as the skin is one of the important features of cosmetics, especially skin cosmetics. Emulsions are commonly used in the form of liquid foundation products because they are pleasant to use due to the refreshing and moisturizing feeling that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0003] Recently, spherical silylated silica aerogel particles have been developed and it has been reported that these particles result in emulsion compositions with long-lasting stability.
[0004] For example, JP-A-2021-102558 discloses at least one kind of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C 26 A cosmetic composition in the form of a W / O emulsion is disclosed, which comprises at least one ester oil selected from liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols.
[0005] In addition, JP-A-2021-102559 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising (i) at least one type of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and (ii) at least one type of composite silica particle and / or at least one type of hollow silica particle.
[0006] However, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions that can provide moisturizing, freshness, and refreshing sensations to keratinous materials such as the skin. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0007]
Patent Document 1
Patent document 2
Patent Document 3
Patent document 4
Patent document 5
Patent document 6
Patent document 7
Patent document 8
Non-licensed literature
[0008]
Non-licensed literature 1
Non-licensed Document 2
[0009] An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition which can provide a fresh and refreshing feeling and long-lasting moisturizing effect, and has good stability. [Means for solving the problem]
[0010] The object of the present invention is to provide an emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates; (c) at least one film-forming polymer; (d) at least one polyol in an amount of 6% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; and (e) at least one anionic polymer and wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 40% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition.
[0011] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be a spherical hydrophobic aerogel of silica silylate.
[0012] The average circularity of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, as determined by image analysis, may be 0.8 or more, preferably 0.82 or more, and less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, even more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less.
[0013] The oil absorption capacity of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel measured at the wet point can be 2 ml / g or more, preferably 3 ml / g or more, more preferably 4 ml / g or more, and most preferably 5 ml / g or more, and can be 12 ml / g or less, preferably 11 ml / g or less, more preferably 10 ml / g or less, and most preferably 8 ml / g or less.
[0014] The film-forming polymer may be selected from silicone resins.
[0015] The film-forming polymer is selected from MQ type silicone resins.
[0016] The polyol may comprise at least one diol in combination with at least one polyol having three or more --OH functional groups, in particular a triol.
[0017] The polyol may comprise at least 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one diol in combination with at least 3% by weight of at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, in particular a triol.
[0018] The number average molecular weight of the anionic polymer may be in the range of 1,000 to 1,000,000, preferably 2,000 to 500,000, and more preferably 3,000 to 50,000.
[0019] The anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, as well as cellulose polymers (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamic acid, (co)polystyrenesulfonate, (co)poly(vinylsulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, (co)polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymers.
[0020] The anionic polymer may be selected from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives and their salts, preferably hyaluronic acid and acetylated hyaluronic acid and their salts.
[0021] The thickening aid may be selected from dimethicone copolyols containing polyethyleneoxy moieties.
[0022] The thickening aid may be selected from alkyl or alkylene carbonates, where the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonate and / or the alkyl group of the alkyl carbonate contains from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0023] The aqueous phase may contain at least one monohydric alcohol.
[0024] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a skin make-up or skin care composition, preferably a skin make-up composition, in particular a foundation.
[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, such as the skin, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0026] As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have discovered that a composition in the form of an emulsion containing components (a) to (e) according to the present invention can provide long-lasting moisturization together with a fresh and refreshing feeling, and has good stability, and thus have completed the present invention.
[0027] The composition according to the invention is therefore an emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates; (c) at least one film-forming polymer; (d) at least one polyol in an amount of 6% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; and (e) at least one anionic polymer and wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 40% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition.
[0028] In the following, the compositions according to the invention are described in a more detailed manner.
[0029] [Composition] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase. The emulsion may be of the O / W type or the W / O type. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in the form of a W / O type emulsion.
[0030] The term "W / O emulsion" or "water-in-oil emulsion" means any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous fatty or oily phase and an aqueous or water phase in the form of droplets dispersed in said fatty or oily phase. The term "O / W emulsion" or "oil-in-water emulsion" means any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous aqueous or water phase and a fatty or oily phase in the form of droplets dispersed in said aqueous or water phase.
[0031] The composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials, preferably a skin makeup or skin care composition, more preferably a skin makeup composition. In this specification, keratinous materials refer to materials that contain keratin as a main component, examples of which include skin, scalp, lips, etc. Preferably, the composition of the present invention is used for skin, more preferably facial skin.
[0032] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be used as a liquid foundation, a makeup base and a skin makeup cream composition, in particular as a liquid foundation, which can take the form of a lotion, milk, cream, liquid gel, paste or serum.
[0033] The composition according to the invention can provide moisturizing, freshness and a refreshing sensation to keratinous materials such as the skin. In particular, the composition according to the invention can impart a "freshness" sensation to the keratinous materials. The expression "freshness" sensation herein means a sensation like a splash or dispersion of water on the keratinous materials during application. Such a sensation can provide a refreshing sensation to the consumer.
[0034] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, (b) at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates, (c) at least one film-forming polymer, (d) at least one polyol, and (e) at least one anionic polymer. The components in the composition will be described in detail below.
[0035] (Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one kind of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel. Two or more types of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel or a combination of different types of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels may be used.
[0036] Aerogel is a material with high porosity. In this specification, silica aerogel generally refers to a solid silica having a porous structure obtained by drying a wet silica aerogel while maintaining the solid silica network, thereby replacing the medium contained in the wet silica aerogel with air. Porosity is the amount of air contained in the apparent volume of the material, expressed as a volume percentage. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention can have a porosity of 60% or more, preferably 70% or more, and more preferably 80% or more.
[0037] The hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention is characterized in that each particle has a spherical shape. Due to this spherical shape, the hydrophobic silica aerogel can provide good smoothness to the cosmetic composition. The sphericity of the hydrophobic silica aerogel can be determined by the average roundness.
[0038] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention may have an average circularity of 0.8 or more, preferably 0.82 or more.The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average circularity of less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, even more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less.
[0039] The "average circularity" can be determined by image analysis methods. In particular, the "average circularity" can be the arithmetic mean of the circularities obtained by image analysis of scanning electron microscope (SEM) images of 2000 or more aerogel particles observed at 1000 magnification by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).
[0040] The "roundness" of each aerogel particle is a value determined by the following formula: C=4πS / L 2 [where C is the circularity, S is the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image, and L is the perimeter (outer perimeter) of the aerogel particle in the image.] As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.
[0041] In the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention, the term "hydrophobic" means that the silica aerogel particles are difficult to disperse in water. More specifically, this term means that after 1 g of silica aerogel particles and 100 g of ion-exchanged water are placed in a bottle, the bottle is stirred or agitated for 10 seconds or more, and the bottle is allowed to stand, the aerogel phase and the aqueous phase are completely separated. Therefore, in a specific embodiment of the present invention, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel does not exhibit water absorption.
[0042] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel that can be used according to the present invention is preferably of the silylated silica type (INCI name: silylated silica).Most preferably, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be that described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433, or JP-A-2018-177620.
[0043] The hydrophobicity is achieved by adding a hydrophobizing agent having the following formula present on the surface of the silica: ≡Si-OH (wherein the symbol "≡" represents the remaining valence of 3 on the Si atom) whereby the silanol group is converted to the following formula: (≡Si-O-) (4-n) SiR n (wherein n is an integer of 1 to 3, each R is independently a hydrocarbyl group, and two or more R may be the same or different, and n is 2 or more.) can be obtained by converting the group represented by the formula:
[0044] The hydrophobizing agent may be a silylation agent. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, in the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, the silica particles may be surface-modified by silylation. Examples of silylation agents include treatment agents having one of the following formulae (1) to (3):
[0045] Formula (1): R n Six (4-n) [wherein n represents an integer of 1 to 3, R represents a hydrocarbyl group, X represents a group that can be eliminated from the molecule by cleaving the bond to the Si atom during reaction with a compound having a hydroxyl group (i.e., a leaving group), each R may be different, where n is 2 or more, and each X may be different, where n is 2 or less].
[0046] Formula (2):
[0047] [ka]
[0048] (In the formula, R 1 represents an alkylene group, R 2 and R 3 each independently represents a hydrocarbyl group; R 4 and R 5 each independently represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group.
[0049] Formula (3):
[0050] [ka]
[0051] (In the formula, R 6 and R 7 each independently represents a hydrocarbyl group, m represents an integer of 3 to 6, R 6 If there are two or more R 6 may be different, R 7If there are two or more R 7 may be different).
[0052] In the above formula (1), R is a hydrocarbyl group, preferably a hydrocarbyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably a methyl group.
[0053] Examples of the leaving group represented by X include halogen atoms such as chlorine and bromine, alkoxy groups such as methoxy and ethoxy, and groups represented by -NH-SiR3 (wherein R is defined the same as R in formula (1)).
[0054] Specific examples of the hydrophobizing agent represented by the above formula (1) include chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, monomethyltrimethoxysilane, monomethyltriethoxysilane, and hexamethyldisilazane.
[0055] Most preferably, from the standpoint of favorable reactivity, chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, and / or hexamethyldisilazane may be used.
[0056] The number of bonds between the Si atom and the silanol groups on the silica backbone varies depending on the number of leaving groups X (4-n). For example, when n is 2, the following bonds are formed: (≡Si-O-)2SiR2
[0057] When n is 3, the following combination occurs: ≡Si-O-SiR3
[0058] In this way, the silanol groups may be silylated, thereby effecting hydrophobization.
[0059] In the above formula (2), R 1 may be an alkylene group, preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0060] In the above formula (2), R 2 and R 3 are independently hydrocarbyl groups, and the preferred groups are the same as those of R in formula (1). 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbyl group, and when it is a hydrocarbyl group, the same preferred groups as R in formula (1) can be mentioned. When silica gel is treated with a compound represented by formula (2) (cyclic silazane), the reaction with the silanol groups causes cleavage of the Si-N bond, and thus the following bond is formed on the surface of the silica skeleton in the gel: (≡Si-O-)2SiR 2 R 3
[0061] In this manner, the silanol groups can also be silylated with the cyclic silazane of formula (2) above, thereby effecting hydrophobization.
[0062] Specific examples of the cyclic silazane represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisilazane and octamethylcyclotetrasilazane.
[0063] In the above formula (3), R 6 and R 7 are independently a hydrocarbyl group, and the preferred groups can be the same as those of R in formula (2). m represents an integer of 3 to 6. When silica gel is treated with a compound represented by formula (3) (cyclic siloxane), the following bonds are formed on the surface of the silica skeleton in the gel: (≡Si-O-)2SiR 6 R 7
[0064] In this manner, the silanol groups can also be silylated with the cyclic siloxane of formula (3) above, thereby effecting hydrophobization.
[0065] Specific examples of cyclic siloxanes represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0066] Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels can be prepared by producing a silica sol, converting the sol to a gel, aging the gel, washing the aged gel, replacing the water in the washed gel with a solvent, treating the gel with a hydrophobizing agent, and drying the hydrophobized silica.
[0067] The specific surface area of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel determined by the BET method is 200 m 2 / g or more, preferably 400m 2 / g or more, more preferably 500m 2 / g or more and 1200m 2 / g or less, preferably 1000m 2 / g or less, more preferably 800m 2 / g or less.
[0068] In the present invention, the "specific surface area determined by the BET method" means a value determined by drying a measurement sample at 200°C for 3 hours or more under reduced pressure of 1 kPa or less, measuring the adsorption isotherm only on the nitrogen adsorption side at liquid nitrogen temperature, and analyzing the adsorption isotherm by the BET method. The pressure range used for the analysis is a relative stress of 0.1 to 0.25.
[0069] The pore volume of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, as determined by the BJH method, can be 1 ml / g or more, preferably 2 ml / g or more, more preferably 3 ml / g or more, and 10 ml / g or less, preferably 8 ml / g or less, more preferably 7 ml / g or less. The peak pore radius of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, as determined by the BJH method, can be 5 nm or more, preferably 10 nm or more, more preferably 12 nm or more, and 50 nm or less, preferably 40 nm or less, more preferably 30 nm or less.
[0070] "Pore volume determined by the BJH method" refers to the pore volume derived from pores having a pore radius of 1 nm to 100 nm obtained by analyzing the adsorption isotherm on the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the same manner as described above in "specific surface area determined by the BET method" by the BJH method (Barrett, EP, Joyner, LG, Halenda, PP, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 73, 373 (1951)). "Peak pore radius determined by the BJH method" refers to the value of the pore radius that produces a peak in a pore distribution curve (volume distribution curve) plotted on the ordinate and the abscissa of the pore radius, respectively, obtained by analyzing the adsorption isotherm on the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the same manner as described above by the BJH method.
[0071] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average particle size of 0.5 μm or more, preferably 1 μm or more, more preferably 2 μm or more, and may have an average particle size of 30 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 15 μm or less, as determined by image analysis.
[0072] The "average particle size" here can be measured by image analysis. In particular, the value of the "average particle size" is the arithmetic mean of the equivalent circular diameters that can be obtained, for example, by image analysis of scanning electron microscope (SEM) images of 2000 or more aerogel particles observed at 1000 magnification by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The "equivalent circular diameter" of each aerogel particle is the diameter of a circle having an area equal to the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image.
[0073] Preferably, the oil absorption capacity of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, which can be measured at the wet point, can be 2 ml / g or more, preferably 3 ml / g or more, more preferably 4 ml / g or more, and most preferably 5 ml / g or more, and can be 12 ml / g or less, preferably 11 ml / g or less, more preferably 10 ml / g or less, and most preferably 8 ml / g or less.
[0074] The oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It can be measured according to the wetting point method, or the method for determining the oil uptake of powders described in standard NF T 30-022. The oil uptake may correspond to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder, by measuring the wetting point as described below.
[0075] An amount of m=2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then oil (such as ester oil, oleic acid or silicone oil) is added dropwise. After 4-5 drops of oil have been added to the powder, a spatula is used to mix and the addition of oil is continued until an agglomerate of oil and powder is formed. At this point, oil is added drop by drop and then the mixture is triturated with the spatula. When a stiff and smooth paste is obtained, the addition of oil is stopped. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs of the oil used (expressed in ml) is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.
[0076] Alternatively, the oil absorption capacity can be measured according to JIS-K6217-4.
[0077] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is one described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433, or JP-A-2018-177620.
[0078] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may be present in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and / or 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, most preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] The amount of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] oily phase The oily phase of the present invention comprises at least (b) a thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates and (c) a film-forming polymer. In addition to components (b) and (c), the oily phase may comprise any lipophilic, liposoluble or lipodispersible component.
[0081] The amount of the oily phase is not particularly limited. In general, the amount of the oily phase may be 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, more preferably 20% by weight or more, and / or 55% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, more preferably 40% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0082] The amount of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 5% to 55% by mass, preferably from 10% to 45% by mass, more preferably from 20% to 40% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0083] (Thickening agent) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicone and alkyl or alkylene carbonate.Two or more thickening aids may be used in combination.Therefore, a single type of thickening aid or a combination of different types of thickening aids may be used.
[0084] The thickening aid of the present invention is included in the oil phase and is used to assist lipophilic or oil-based thickeners, such as spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, to achieve good stability.
[0085] The thickening aid is selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates.
[0086] Polyoxyalkylenated silicone A single type of polyoxyalkylenated silicone or a combination of different types of polyoxyalkylenated silicones can be used in the compositions according to the present invention.
[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylenated silicone" means any silicone that contains at least one oxyalkylenated unit.
[0088] The oxyalkylenated units in the polyoxyalkylenated silicone are each an oxygen atom and a linear or branched C2-C 10 It may also be a polyoxyalkylene group containing alternating alkylene groups, preferably C2 to C6 alkylene groups, more preferentially C2 and / or C3 (ethylene and propylene, respectively) alkylene groups. The oxyalkylenated units are (-C x H 2x O-) a where x is in the range of 2 to 6, and a is equal to or greater than 2. Preferably, the oxyalkylene units are oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and more preferably, oxyethylene units.
[0089] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone preferably contains a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 2 and 100, more preferably between 3 and 50, and even more preferably between 4 and 40. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone does not contain any oxypropylene units.
[0090] In one embodiment, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone contains 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, preferably 3 to 40 oxyethylene units, more preferably 4 to 30 oxyethylene units, and even more preferably 5 to 20 oxyethylene units.
[0091] In one embodiment of the invention, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone comprises a dimethicone copolyol, which is a polyorganosiloxane comprising oxyalkylenated units such as polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy moieties, preferably polyethyleneoxy moieties.
[0092] The polyoxyalkylenated units of the polyoxyalkylenated silicone may be substituted with at least one alkyl group and / or amine group. The alkyl group may be a linear or branched C1-C 30 Chain, preferably C4-C 22 The substituted amine moiety may be selected, for example, from amino C1-C4 alkyl moieties.
[0093] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone may be a compound of formula (I):
[0094] [ka]
[0095] [In the formula, R1, R2 and R3 are each independently a C1 to C6 alkyl group or -(CH2) x -(OCH2CH2) y -(OCH2CH2CH2) z represents an -OR group, where at least one R, R or R group is not an alkyl group, and R is hydrogen, an alkyl group or an acyl group; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, with the proviso that A and B are not both equal to 0; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; and z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
[0096] According to one embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0097] Examples of polyoxyalkylenated silicones of formula (I) that may be mentioned are those of formula (II):
[0098] [ka]
[0099] (wherein A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10, and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20).
[0100] As examples of polyoxyalkylenated silicones of formula (I), mention may also be made of compounds of formula (III): H-(OCH2CH2) y -(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO] A' -(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2) y -OH (III) (In the formula, A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20).
[0101] The polyoxyalkylenated silicones of the invention that may be used are those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) where A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12, respectively. Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) where A is 15 and y is 13.
[0102] Commercially available products of dimethicone copolyols include, for example, PEG 10 dimethicone and PEG 14 dimethicone, PEG 12 dimethicone sold under the trade name XIAMETER® OFX-0193 FLUID by DOW CORNING, PEG / PPG 18 / 18 dimethicone silicone sold under the name 5225C by Dow Corning, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone silicone as proposed by Evonik under the name ABIL EM 90, and other dimethicone copolyols.
[0103] Alkyl or alkylene carbonate A single type of alkyl or alkylene carbonate or a combination of different types of alkyl or alkylene carbonates can be used in the compositions according to the present invention.
[0104] According to one embodiment, the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonate and / or the alkyl group of the alkyl carbonate contain 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and are ultimately substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0105] According to another embodiment, the sum of the carbons of the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonate and / or the sum of the carbons of the alkyl group of the alkyl carbonate present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0106] The alkylene carbonates are in particular chosen from those of formula (4):
[0107] [ka]
[0108] [In formula (4), R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; R" represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; m is 1, 2 or 3.
[0109] Preferably, the R' group represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, a linear or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0110] R" represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C2 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1 to C2 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0111] Preferably, m is 1.
[0112] Particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates include compounds in which the R' group is a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), an ethyl group (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate) or a hydroxymethyl group (R'=-CHOH; corresponding to glyceryl carbonate).
[0113] Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.
[0114] The alkyl carbonates are in particular chosen from those of formula (5): R'-O-C-O-R'' [In formula (5), R' represents a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; R" represents a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; The sum of the carbons in R' and R'' ranges from 2 to 6.
[0115] Preferably, the R' group represents a linear C1-C3 alkyl group or a linear C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0116] R" represents a linear C1 to C3 alkyl group or a linear C1 to C2 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0117] More specifically, diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate can be mentioned.
[0118] The carbonate according to the invention is preferably an alkylene carbonate, more particularly propylene carbonate.
[0119] The thickening aid may be present in an amount of at least 0.05% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably at least 0.2% by weight, even more preferably at least 0.3% by weight, and / or at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 4% by weight, more preferably at most 2% by weight, and most preferably at most 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0120] The amount of thickening aid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.05% to 5% by mass, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by mass, more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by mass, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0121] (film-forming polymer) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer. Two or more film-forming polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of film-forming polymer or a combination of different types of film-forming polymers may be used.
[0122] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" refers to a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units, which units are derived from compounds known as monomers, which or these units are repeated at least twice, and preferably at least three times.
[0123] The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of a film-forming auxiliary, a macroscopically continuous thin film that adheres to a support, in particular to keratinous materials, preferably an adherent thin film, and even better, a thin film having such adhesion and mechanical properties that it is separable and manipulable in the separated state, for example when the thin film is prepared by pouring it onto a non-sticky surface (e.g. a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface).
[0124] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming polymer may be selected from the group including: - Film-forming polymers that are soluble in organic solvent media, in particular liposoluble polymers, which means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and forms a single homogeneous phase when it is incorporated in the medium. - film-forming polymers that are dispersible in organic solvent media (this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium and that the polymer remains stable and / or compatible once incorporated in this medium. In particular, such polymers may be in the form of a non-aqueous dispersion of polymer particles, preferably in a silicone-based oil or a hydrocarbon-based oil; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous dispersion of polymer comprises polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are often referred to as "NADs"), and - film-forming polymers in the form of an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles (this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in water, that the polymer remains stable and / or compatible once incorporated in water, and that the polymer particles are possibly stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizer. These polymer particles are often referred to as "latex"; in this case the composition must comprise an aqueous phase).
[0125] Preferably, the film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyamide-silicone block polymers, ethylenic block polymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carboxyloxane dendrimer derivative, copolymers comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups, silicone resins, oil-dispersible polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, olefin copolymers selected from amorphous olefin copolymers and olefin copolymers with controlled moderate crystallization, hydrocarbon-based resins having a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / ml or less, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from silicone resins.
[0126] The film-forming silicone resin may be any silicone resin that has film-forming properties.
[0127] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin may be selected from silsesquioxanes, siloxysilicates and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation.
[0128] Silicone resin nomenclature is known in the art under the name "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby silicone resins are described by the various repeating siloxane monomer moieties that make up the polymer, with each letter in "MDTQ" representing a different type of moiety.
[0129] The symbol "M" stands for the monofunctional moiety (CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 This moiety is considered monofunctional because the silicon atoms share only one oxygen for the formation of a chain. The "M" moiety can be represented by the following structure:
[0130] [ka]
[0131] At least one of the methyl groups may, for example, be of the formula: [R(CH3)2]SiO 1 / 2 [For example, the following structure:
[0132] [ka]
[0133] (wherein R is other than a methyl group). The aryl group may be substituted to produce a moiety having the formula:
[0134] The symbol "D" represents the difunctional moiety (CH3)SiO 2 / 2 and two of the available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of a polymer chain. The "D" portion is an essential component of dimethicone oil and can be represented by the following formula:
[0135] [ka]
[0136] The symbol “T” is the trifunctional moiety (CH3)SiO 3 / 2 where three of the available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The "T" moiety can be represented by the following structure:
[0137] [ka]
[0138] As in the "M" moiety, in a "D" or "T", any one of the methyl groups may be replaced with an R group other than methyl.
[0139] Finally, the symbol "Q" represents the tetrafunctional moiety SiO 4 / 2 where all four available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of polymer chains. The "Q" moiety can be represented by the following structure:
[0140] [ka]
[0141] As mentioned above, in one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin may be selected from siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane and hydroxysilylation resin.Any siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane or hydroxysilylation resin that acts as a film-forming agent can be used in the composition of the present invention.The film-forming silicone resin is preferably crosslinked.
[0142] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin may be selected from substituted siloxysilicates, silsesquioxanes and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation.Substituted siloxysilicates or substituted silsesquioxanes may be, for example, siloxysilicates or silsesquioxanes in which methyl groups are replaced by longer carbon chains, such as ethane, propane or butane chains.Carbon chains may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0143] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film forming silicone resin may be selected from siloxysilicates, such as MQ resins represented by the following formula: [(CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 ] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (MQ part) where x and y may have values ranging from 20 to 100, preferably from 50 to 80.
[0144] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the siloxysilicates include all combinations of M and Q moieties, such as [(R)Si] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (Wherein, R is a methyl group and C2 to C 10 The alkyl group may be selected from the group consisting of alkyl groups having longer carbon chain lengths.
[0145] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the film forming silicone resin may be selected from silsesquioxanes represented by the following formula: (CHSiO 3 / 2 ) x (T part) where x has a value that can range up to several thousand, and CH3 is optionally substituted with R (e.g., as described above for the T moiety).
[0146] Most preferably, the film-forming silicone resin is a trimethylsiloxysilicate, such as that sold under the designation SR 1000 MQ resin by Momentive Performance Materials.
[0147] The film-forming polymer may be present in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, even more preferably 5% by weight or more, and / or 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and most preferably 8% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0148] The amount of film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by mass, preferably from 1% to 15% by mass, more preferably from 3% to 10% by mass, and even more preferably from 5% to 8% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0149] aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises at least (d) a polyol and (e) an anionic polymer. In addition to components (d) and (e), the aqueous phase may comprise an aqueous medium, i.e., water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
[0150] The amount of the aqueous phase is at least 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the aqueous phase may be up to 90% by weight, preferably up to 80% by weight, more preferably up to 70% by weight, even more preferably up to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and is water-miscible (miscible with more than 50% by weight of water at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).
[0152] (Polyol) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol. Two or more polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of polyol or a combination of different types of polyols may be used.
[0153] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule that contains at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0154] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds having at least two --OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.
[0155] Preferably, the polyols that may be used in the composition according to the invention are linear or branched, preferably linear alkyl type compounds having at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functional groups, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functional groups, even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functional groups.
[0156] Polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are in particular those having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0157] The polyols that may be used according to the invention are chosen from linear or branched, preferably linear, polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms and mention may be made in particular of: diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, - Triols such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof.
[0158] The amount of polyol in the composition is at least 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The polyol may be present in an amount of up to 30% by weight, preferably up to 25% by weight, more preferably up to 20% by weight, even more preferably up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0159] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol comprises at least one diol in combination with at least one polyol, in particular a triol, having three or more -OH functional groups. In this embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 3% by weight of a diol in combination with at least 3% by weight of a polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0160] In particular, the composition may comprise a combination of at least one diol and at least one triol. In this embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 3% by weight of the diol in combination with at least 3% by weight of the triol, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of the diol in the range of 1% to 20% by weight and an amount of the triol in the range of 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably an amount of the diol in the range of 2% to 15% by weight and an amount of the triol in the range of 2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably an amount of the diol in the range of 3% to 15% by weight and an amount of the triol in the range of 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0161] (anionic polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic polymer. Two or more types of anionic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of anionic polymer or a combination of different types of anionic polymers may be used.
[0162] The anionic polymer is present in the aqueous phase of the present invention. Thus, the anionic polymer, as used herein, can be water-soluble and hydrophilic. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" is used herein to describe a material that is hydrophilic at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "Soluble in water" means that the substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight (at 1 Pa) based on the total weight of water.
[0163] The anionic polymer has a positive charge density. When the anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, the charge density of the anionic polymer may be 0.1 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably 1 to 15 meq / g, more preferably 4 to 10 meq / g, and when the anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer, the average degree of substitution of the anionic polymer may be 0.1 to 3.0, preferably 0.2 to 2.7, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5.
[0164] It may be preferred that the molecular weight of the anionic polymer is 1,000 or more, preferably 5,000 or more, even more preferably 10,000 or more, even more preferably 15,000 or more, particularly 20,000 or more, and / or 1,000,000 or less, preferably 500,000 or less, more preferably 200,000 or less, even more preferably 100,000 or less, particularly 50,000 or less.
[0165] The molecular weight of the anionic polymer is preferably 1,000 or more, preferably 3,000 or more, and / or 1,000,000 or less, preferably 500,000 or less, more preferably 200,000 or less, even more preferably 100,000 or less, especially 50,000 or less.
[0166] In a preferred embodiment, the molecular weight of the anionic polymer is in the range of 1,000 to 1,000,000, preferably 2,000 to 500,000, and even more preferably 3,000 to 50,000.
[0167] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" can mean number average molecular weight.
[0168] The anionic polymer may have at least one negative charge and / or a moiety having a negative charge selected from the group consisting of sulfate groups, sulfate groups, sulfonic acid groups, sulfonate groups, phosphoric acid groups, phosphate groups, phosphonic acid groups, phosphonate groups, carboxylic acid groups, and carboxylate groups.
[0169] The anionic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, for example terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers.
[0170] The anionic polymer may be selected from natural and synthetic anionic polymers.
[0171] The anionic polymer may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain.
[0172] The anionic polymers, which may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain, can be obtained by copolymerizing a monomer (a) chosen from a carboxylic acid containing α,β-ethylenic unsaturation (monomer a′) and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (monomer a″) with a non-surface-active monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation other than (a) (b) and / or a monomer (c) containing ethylenic unsaturation resulting from reacting an acrylic monomer containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation or an isocyanate monomer containing monoethylenic unsaturation with a monovalent nonionic amphiphilic component or a primary or secondary fatty amine.
[0173] Thus, anionic polymers carrying at least one hydrophobic chain can be obtained by either of two synthetic routes: - copolymerization of the monomers (a') and (c), or (a'), (b) and (c), or (a''), (c), or (a''), (b) and (c), or modification (e.g. esterification or amidation) of monomer (a'), or of copolymers formed from monomers (a') and (b), or (a'') and (b), with monovalent, non-ionic amphiphilic compounds or with primary or secondary fatty amines.
[0174] As 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, mention may be made in particular of those disclosed in the article "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, pp. 3694 to 3704" and in applications EP-A-0750899 and EP-A-1069172.
[0175] The carboxylic acid containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation constituting monomer (a′) can be chosen from a large number of acids, in particular from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, and is preferably acrylic acid or methacrylic acid.
[0176] The copolymer may also contain monomers (b) containing monoethylenic unsaturation that do not have surfactant properties. Preferred monomers are those which, when homopolymerized, result in water-insoluble polymers. These can be selected, for example, from acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylates (C1-C4), such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylates. More specifically, preferred monomers are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. Other monomers which may be used are, for example, styrene, vinyl toluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, these monomers being those in which the single ethylenic group is the only group that is reactive under the polymerization conditions. However, monomers containing groups which react under the action of heat, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, can optionally be used.
[0177] Monomer (c) is obtained by reacting an acrylic monomer containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as (a), or an isocyanate monomer containing monoethylenic unsaturation, with a monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.
[0178] The monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compounds or primary or secondary fatty amines used to produce the nonionic monomers (c) are well known. The monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compounds are generally alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds with alkylene oxides forming the hydrophilic portion of the molecule. The hydrophobic compounds are generally composed of aliphatic alcohols or alkylphenols, in which a carbonaceous chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic portion of the amphiphilic compound.
[0179] Preferred monovalent non-ionic amphiphilic compounds are those having the following formula (V): R-(OCH2CHR') m -(OCH2CH2) n -OH (V) wherein R is selected from alkyl or alkylene groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and alkylaryl groups having alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R' is selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; n is an average number ranging from about 1 to 150; and m is an average number ranging from about 0 to 50, with the proviso that n is at least as large as m.
[0180] Preferably, in the compounds of formula (V), the R group is an alkyl group containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms and the alkyl group is a C8-C 13 wherein R′ is a methyl group, m=0, and n=1 to 25.
[0181] Preferred primary and secondary fatty amines are composed of one or two alkyl chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0182] The monomers used to form the nonionic urethane monomer (c) can be selected from a wide variety of compounds. Any compound containing copolymerizable unsaturation, such as acrylic, methacrylic or allylic unsaturation, may be used. Monomer (c) can be obtained in particular from isocyanates containing monoethylenic unsaturation, such as in particular α,α-dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate.
[0183] The monomers (c) are in particular oxyethylenated (1 to 50 EO) C6-C 30 Acrylates, methacrylates or itaconates of fatty alcohols, such as steareth-20 methacrylate, oxyethylenated (25EO) behenyl methacrylate, oxyethylenated (20EO) monocetyl itaconate, oxyethylenated (20EO) monostearyl itaconate or polyoxyethylenated (25EO) C 12 ~C 24 From alcohol modified acrylates and oxyethylenated (1 to 50 EO) C6 to C 30It may be selected from the dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanates of aliphatic alcohols, such as in particular the dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol.
[0184] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic polymer is selected from an acrylic terpolymer derived from (a) a carboxylic acid containing α,β-ethylenic unsaturation, (b) a non-surface active monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation other than (a), and (c) a nonionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monovalent nonionic amphiphilic compound with an isocyanate containing monoethylenic unsaturation.
[0185] Examples of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain include, in particular, acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Acusol 823 by Rohm & Haas; acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas; (meth)acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylated (25EO) behenyl methacrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold as an aqueous emulsion under the name Aculyn 28 by Rohm & Haas; acrylic acid / oxyethylated (20EO) monocetyl itaconate copolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch; acrylic acid / oxyethylated (20EO) monostearyl itaconate copolymers, such as the product sold as a 30% aqueous dispersion under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch. Product sold in 2001 as a 30% aqueous dispersion; Acrylate / Polyoxyethylenated (25EO)C 12 ~C 24Mention may be made of copolymers of acrylates modified with alcohols, such as the 30-32% copolymer latex sold under the name Synthalen W2000 by the company 3V SA; or the terpolymers of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol with dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate, such as the product disclosed in document EP-A-0173109 as a 24% aqueous dispersion containing 40 ethylene oxide groups.
[0186] The anionic polymer may also be polyester-5, for example the product sold under the name Eastman AQ™ 55S Polymer by EASTMAN CHEMICAL, having the following chemical formula:
[0187] [ka]
[0188] A: Dicarboxylic acid moiety G: glycol moiety SO3 - Na + : Sodium sulfo group OH: Hydroxyl group
[0189] It may be preferred that the anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids, such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamic acid, (co)polystyrenesulfonate, (co)poly(vinylsulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, (co)polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof.
[0190] The maleic acid copolymers may comprise one or more maleic acid comonomers and one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinyl pyrrolidone, olefins containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and styrene.
[0191] Thus, "maleic copolymer" is understood to mean any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic comonomers with one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene or isooctylene, and styrene, the maleic comonomers being optionally partially or completely hydrolyzed. Preferably, hydrophilic polymers are used, i.e. polymers with a water solubility of 2 g / l or more.
[0192] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the maleic copolymer may have a molar fraction of maleic units between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.
[0193] The weight average molar mass of the maleic acid copolymers may be between 1,000 and 500,000, preferably between 1,000 and 50,000.
[0194] It is preferred that the maleic acid copolymer is a styrene / maleic acid copolymer, more preferably a sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer.
[0195] Preferably, a copolymer of styrene and maleic acid in a 50 / 50 ratio is used.
[0196] For example, a styrene / maleic acid (50 / 50) copolymer in the form of its ammonium salt at 30% in water, sold under the reference SMA1000H® by the company Cray Valley, or a styrene / maleic acid (50 / 50) copolymer in the form of its sodium salt at 40% in water, sold under the reference SMA1000HNa® by the company Cray Valley, may be used.
[0197] The use of styrene / maleic acid copolymers, such as sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer, can improve the wettability of films prepared with the compositions according to the invention.
[0198] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the anionic polymer is preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives.
[0199] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula:
[0200] [ka]
[0201] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" specifically encompasses the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of the formula:
[0202] [ka]
[0203] It is the smallest portion of hyaluronic acid that contains a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0204] The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, linear polymers comprising the above polymer units linked together in a chain via alternating β(1,4) and β(1,3) glycosidic bonds, with a molecular weight (MW) that can range between 380 and 1,000,000 Daltons, which depends mainly on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the preparation method.
[0205] The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" in the context of the present invention also includes hyaluronic acid salts, which may include alkali metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0206] In nature, hyaluronic acid is found in the percellular gel in the matrix of connective tissues of vertebrate organs, such as the dermis and epithelial tissues, specifically in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid of joints, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord, and in the crest process.
[0207] Therefore, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" includes all fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid, especially those having molecular weights within the molecular weight ranges envisaged above.
[0208] In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions that do not have inflammatory activity.
[0209] As an illustration of the various hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the article "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) pp. 699-715, which reviews the enumerated biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.
[0210] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fraction suitable for use within the scope of the present invention has a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da, which is the so-called low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
[0211] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic acid groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols, containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5 to 50%.
[0212] Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters are described in detail in D. Campoccia et al., "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) pp. 2101-2127.
[0213] The hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.
[0214] The molecular weights given above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.
[0215] The amount of anionic polymer in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0216] The amount of anionic polymer in the composition according to the invention may be up to 20% by weight, preferably up to 15% by weight, more preferably up to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0217] The amount of anionic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by mass, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0218] (Other Ingredients) ·oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil in the oily phase. Two or more types of oil may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil may be used or a combination of different types of oil may be used.
[0219] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and at room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, either alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0220] Among the oils that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of volatile or non-volatile oils, which may be hydrocarbon-based oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, or mixtures thereof.
[0221] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil that contains mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oils do not contain any silicon atoms.
[0222] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0223] For the purposes of this invention, a "polar oil" is an oil having a solubility parameter δ a is 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is intended to mean oils other than those.
[0224] In particular, "polar oil" is intended to mean an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which contains at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
[0225] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space is described in the article by CM Hansen, "The three-dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol., Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).
[0226] According to this Hansen space, - δ D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, - δp characterizes the Debye interaction between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction between induced and permanent dipoles, - δ h characterize specific interaction forces (hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds, etc.) - δ a is determined by the following formula: δ a = (δ p 2 + δ h 2 ) 1 / 2 .
[0227] Parameter δ p , δ h , δ d , and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:
[0228] Preferably, the polar oil used according to the invention has a δ between 4 and 9.1 a , preferably δ between 6 and 9.1 a , and even better, δ between 7.3 and 9.1 a has.
[0229] The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil, a polar oil, such as a vegetable or animal oil, and an ester or ether oil, or a mixture thereof.
[0230] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0231] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0232] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0233] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils other than alkyl or alkylene carbonates, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0234] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.
[0235] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0236] Ester oils, which are monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, may be represented by the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably linear, fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is ≧10.
[0237] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0238] The ester oil is preferably selected from fatty acid ester oils.
[0239] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0240] In particular, mention may be made of diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl sebacate); diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0241] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It should be remembered that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing some alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0242] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0243] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids, which, when unsaturated, can have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0244] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0245] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristic acid, behenic acid, coconut acid, stearate, linoleate, linolenic acid, capric acid and arachidic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0246] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose.
[0247] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0248] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0249] It may be preferable to use as ether oils dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the formula: R 1 -OR 2 (In the formula, R 1 and R 2 Each of is independently a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C 24 Alkyl group, preferably C6-C 18 Alkyl groups, more preferably C8 to C 12 (Indicates an alkyl group.) R1 and R 2 are preferably the same.
[0250] Examples of the linear alkyl group include a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, a undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and a tetracosyl group.
[0251] Branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, t-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyl, and 2-hexyl groups. Examples of such alkyl groups include xyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, 3,7-dimethyloctyl, and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl.
[0252] Examples of the cyclic alkyl group include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0253] Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0254] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like, and mixtures thereof.
[0255] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes or dimethicones, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.
[0256] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups linked via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0257] Organopolysiloxanes are more fully defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll, Academic Press (1968). They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
[0258] If volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly chosen from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, for example Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, of the formula:
[0259] [ka]
[0260] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a molecular weight of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2Linear, volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 10000 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Annex C.
[0261] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of the polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0262] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as for example the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the Mirasil® series of oils sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g. 60 000mm 2 / s viscosity, and - Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).
[0263] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.
[0264] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of the polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oils.
[0265] The phenylsilicone oil may be chosen from the phenylsilicones of the formula:
[0266] [ka]
[0267] (In the formula, R1~R 10 are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 Hydrocarbon group, preferably C1-C 12 a hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C1 to C6 hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group; m, n, p, and q each independently represent an integer of 0 to 900, inclusive, preferably 0 to 500, inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100, inclusive; However, the sum of n+m+q is not 0.
[0268] Examples that may be mentioned are products sold under the following names: - Rhodia Silbione® oils, series 70 641; Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia, - Dow Corning oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, - PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20, - Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0269] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (wherein R1 to R 10 is methyl, p, q and n=0, and m=1).
[0270] The organically modified silicone fluids may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may therefore be made of silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., as well as Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0271] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane. - Alkanes, for example mixtures of C9-12 alkanes, C10-13 alkanes, C13-14 alkanes, C13-15 alkanes, C14-17 alkanes, C14-19 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, C18-21 alkanes, C8-9 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-10 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-11 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-16 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C10-12 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-14 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-15 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C12-13 alkanes / cycloalkanes.
[0272] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0273] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohols refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 8 or more, preferably 10 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched.
[0274] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl groups. R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0275] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0276] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0277] Thus, fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C8-C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 Alcohol can be selected.
[0278] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. A saturated fatty alcohol is any linear or branched, saturated, C8-C 30 It is preferably selected from aliphatic alcohols. Linear or branched saturated C8-C 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols are preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20 More preferably, an aliphatic alcohol can be used. 16 ~C 20 Even more preferably, an aliphatic alcohol can be used.
[0279] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
[0280] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohols used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0281] It is also preferred that the oil is chosen from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0282] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and is composed of short chain hydrocarbons (C1 to C 12 ), ester oils having a molecular weight of 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,8,9,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,19,20,21,22,23,24,25,26,27,28,29,30,31,32,33,34,35,36,37,38,39,40,41,42,51,52,60,53,71,72,73,74,75,86,87,98,99,96,99,98,99,99, 12 ~C 30 ) type oils, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0283] The oil is preferably selected from polar oils, more preferably from ester oils other than alkyl or alkylene carbonates, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof. It is further preferred that the oil comprises both ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a residue of a linear fatty acid containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and fatty alcohols having the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated branched groups containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0284] The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention may be at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, and / or at most 40% by weight, preferably at most 35% by weight, more preferably at most 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0285] The amount of oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by mass, preferably from 5% to 35% by mass, more preferably from 10% to 30% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0286] ·water The composition according to the invention preferably comprises water in the aqueous phase.
[0287] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention may be at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, and / or at most 50% by weight, preferably at most 40% by weight, more preferably at most 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0288] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 5% to 50% by mass, preferably from 10% to 40% by mass, and more preferably from 15% to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0289] Monohydric alcohol The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one monohydric alcohol in the aqueous phase. Two or more types of monohydric alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monohydric alcohol or a combination of different types of monohydric alcohols may be used.
[0290] The monohydric alcohol forms the aqueous phase of the present invention. Thus, monohydric alcohol may refer herein to a hydrophilic monohydric alcohol that is water soluble. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" is used herein to mean a material that is water soluble at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "Soluble in water" means that the substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight (at 1 Pa) based on the total weight of water.
[0291] The monohydric alcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monohydric alcohol having only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group and having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0292] In one embodiment, the monohydric alcohol may be an aliphatic monohydric alcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0293] The term "aliphatic monohydric alcohol" as used herein means any linear or branched saturated alkane compound having only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.
[0294] The aliphatic monohydric alcohol present in the composition of the present invention may be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.
[0295] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monohydric alcohol may be selected from linear aliphatic monohydric alcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0296] The amount of monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the invention may be at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 3% by weight, more preferably at least 5% by weight, and / or at most 20% by weight, preferably at most 15% by weight, more preferably at most 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0297] The amount of monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably from 3% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably from 5% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0298] Lipophilic thickener The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic thickener. Two or more lipophilic thickeners may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of lipophilic thickener or a combination of different types of lipophilic thickeners may be used.
[0299] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic" is used herein to mean a lipophilicity at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5It may refer to a substance that has a solubility in oil of at least 1 g / L, preferably at least 10 g / L, more preferably at least 100 g / L, at 25° C. (atmospheric pressure) Pa. In another aspect, the term "lipophilic" may refer to a substance that is insoluble in water or has a solubility in water of 1 g / L or less, or 0.1 g / L or less, at 25° C. (atmospheric pressure).
[0300] The term "lipophilic thickener" means an agent, inorganic or organic, in particulate or not, capable of gelling the oil of the composition. The term "particulate lipophilic thickener" means a lipophilic thickener in particulate or crystalline form (particulate or crystalline).
[0301] The lipophilic thickeners used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from mineral and organic lipophilic thickeners, and mixtures of these compounds. The lipophilic thickeners are preferably particulate.
[0302] The mineral lipophilic thickeners that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably mineral particles essentially composed of mineral oxides and / or hydroxides.
[0303] These particles are preferably insoluble in water at room temperature (25° C.). The term "insoluble" means a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight.
[0304] Preferably, the number average primary size of these mineral particles ranges from 0.01 to 500 μm, preferably from 0.1 to 200 μm and even more preferentially from 1 to 100 μm.
[0305] For purposes of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" means the largest dimension that can be measured between two diametrically opposed points on an individual particle.
[0306] The size of the mineral particles may be determined by transmission electron microscopy, or by measuring the specific surface area by the BET method, or by laser particle size analysis.
[0307] The mineral particles that may be used according to the present invention may be of various morphologies, for example, spherical, acicular, flake or plate-like.
[0308] In a preferred variant of the invention, the mineral lipophilic thickener is in the form of plate-shaped particles.
[0309] The mineral lipophilic thickeners that may be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may preferably be chosen from silicas and silicates.
[0310] The silicates of the present invention may be natural or chemically modified (or synthetic).
[0311] Silicates correspond to optionally hydrated silicas in which some of the silicon atoms are replaced by Al 3+ , B 3+ , Fe 3+ , Ga 3+ , B.E. 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ , Co 3+ , Ni 3+ , Na + , Li + , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ and the like metal cations.
[0312] More particularly, the silicates that may be used in the context of the present invention are chosen from clays of the smectite family, such as montmorillonite, hectorite, bentonite, beidellite and saponite, and of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families.
[0313] These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials are preferably used.
[0314] The silicates may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The silicates are preferably selected from bentonite and hectorite.
[0315] The silicates may be modified with compounds selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0316] Suitable silicates for use include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay, stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay, quantanium-18 / benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay, quaternium-18 hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone Gel IPP, Bentone Gel XL by Rheox, Mention may also be made of those sold under the names Simagel M and Simagel SI 345 by the company Biophil, as well as Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8 and Bentone Gel VS38.
[0317] The silicates which may be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular 10 ~C 12It may also be selected from modified hectorites such as hectorites modified with fatty acid ammonium chlorides, in particular distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and stearyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
[0318] As explained above, the mineral lipophilic thickener that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be a silica.
[0319] The silica that may be used in the composition according to the invention is a fumed silica.
[0320] Fumed silica may be obtained by hydrolysis of volatile silicon compounds in an oxyhydrogen flame at high temperatures to produce finely divided silica. This method makes it possible to obtain hydrophilic silicas that have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are sold, for example, by Degussa under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380®, and by Cabot under the names Cab-O-Sil HS-5®, Cab-O-Sil EH-5®, Cab-O-Sil LM-130®, Cab-O-Sil MS-55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5®.
[0321] It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica through chemical reactions which result in a reduction in the number of silanol groups, it is especially possible to replace the silanol groups with hydrophobic groups, thus obtaining a hydrophobic silica.
[0322] The hydrophobic group may be: (a) Trimethylsiloxy groups, obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as silylated silicas according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot. (b) Dimethylsilyloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane.
[0323] Silicas thus treated are known as dimethylsilylated silicas according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
[0324] More preferentially, the mineral lipophilic thickener is C 10 ~C 12 They are selected from hectorites modified with fatty acid ammonium chlorides, in particular distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and stearyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and hydrophilic fumed silicas, such as the hydrophilic silica sold under the name Aerosil 200®.
[0325] More preferentially, the mineral lipophilic thickener is C 10 ~C 12It is selected from hectorites modified with fatty acid ammonium chlorides, in particular hectorites modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (or disteardimonium hectorite), such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis, and hectorites modified with stearyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 27V by the company Elementis.
[0326] As explained above, the lipophilic thickeners that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be chosen from organic lipophilic thickeners.
[0327] Preferably, the organic lipophilic thickener is a semicrystalline polymer, a non-silicone polyamide, a silicone polyamide, a saccharide or polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl ester, an N-acyl amino acid amide derivative, a polymer containing alkylene and / or styrene blocks such as polystearyl acrylate, an elastomeric organopolysiloxane, a solid fatty ester, in particular a C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 The copolymers are selected from the group consisting of diblock, triblock or multiblock polymers, radial block polymers, also known as star copolymers, or comb polymers.
[0328] C8~C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 Among fatty acid esters, C8 to C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 Mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids and polyols, more particularly C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24Mention may also be made of mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol. In particular, mixtures of these compounds may be used, for example mixtures of the mono-, di- and triesters of behenic acid and of glycerol.
[0329] Most particularly, organic lipophilic thickeners are semicrystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, polymers containing alkylene and / or styrene blocks such as polystearyl acrylate, solid fatty esters, especially C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 The fatty acid esters, as well as mixtures of these compounds, are preferably selected from the group consisting of ethyl acetate, ethyl acetate diethyl esters ... and mixtures of these compounds.
[0330] Even more preferentially, the organic lipophilic thickener is a C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 Fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof, and better still C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 Esters of fatty acids and polyols, more particularly C8-C 30 , preferably C 18 ~C 24 It is selected from mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids and glycerol.
[0331] The lipophilic thickener may be present in an amount of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.2% by weight, more preferably at least 0.5% by weight, and / or in an amount of at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 3% by weight, more preferably at most 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0332] The amount of lipophilic thickener in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0333] Surfactants The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants other than polyoxyalkylenated silicones, used alone or as a mixture.
[0334] Examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, sulfate esters of alkylphenoxypolyoxyethyleneethanol, α-olefin sulfonates, β-alkyloxyalkene sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carbonates, succinamates, sulfosuccinates, sarcosinates, octoxynol or nonoxynol phosphates, taurates, fatty taurides, sulfated monoglycerides, fatty acid aminopolyoxyethylene sulfates, isethionates, alkylbenzenesulfonates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, and polyoxyethylene alkylamide ether carboxylic acids, and salts thereof.
[0335] Examples of nonionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions according to the invention include ethylene oxide adducts with polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (INCI names Laureth-9 to Laureth-50), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols with fatty acids, for example with saturated or unsaturated chains containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. those containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, such as glycerol and C8-C 24 Esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearates (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate; 24Esters with fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, e.g. C8-C 24 Sorbitol esters and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of fatty acids; sugars and C8-C 24 Mention may be made of ethers with fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylene oxypropylene alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanolamides; alkylamine oxides; alkyl polyglycosides, as well as silicone surfactants other than polyoxyalkylenated silicones.
[0336] C8~C 24 The sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives can be chosen from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids with alkoxylated sorbitans, for example containing 20 to 100 EOs, such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold under the name Span 60 by the company ICI, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold under the name Span 40 by the company ICI, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold under the name Tween 65 by the company ICI, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or the compounds sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by the company Uniqema.
[0337] Examples of amphoteric surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include alkanoyl amidopropyl-N,N-dimethylglycine betaine, alkanoyl amidopropyl-N,N-dimethyl-2-hydroxypropyl sulfobetaine, alkyl-N,N-dimethylglycine betaine, alkanoyl amidopropyl-N,N-dimethyl-propyl sulfobetaine, lauryl-N,N-dimethyl-2-hydroxypropyl sulfobetaine, and salts thereof.
[0338] Examples of cationic surfactants that can be used in the composition of the present invention include C8-C 24 Examples of the amine-type cationic surfactants include long-chain C8-C dimethyl ammonium salts, long-chain monoalkyl monobenzyl dimethyl ammonium salts, and long-chain monoalkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, all of which may have an amide or ester bond therein, and the counterions are preferably halogen atoms such as chlorine and bromine atoms, sulfates, and alkyl group-containing sulfate residues such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate, and salts thereof. 24 Examples of the alkyl group include long-chain dialkylmonomethylamine salts, preferably in the form of hydrochloride, sulfate or phosphate, and salts thereof.
[0339] The surfactant may be present in the composition in a content of at least 0.5% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2% by weight, and / or in a content of at most 15% by weight, preferably at most 10% by weight, more preferably at most 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0340] The amount of surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably from 1% to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 3% to 7% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0341] UV protection agent The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one UV filter.
[0342] The UV filter may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" refer to solid and liquid at 25°C under 1 atm, respectively. The UV filter may be made of at least one organic or inorganic material, preferably at least one organic material. Therefore, the UV filter is preferably an organic UV filter that can be included in the oil phase.
[0343] The organic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic acid derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic acid derivatives; salicylic acid derivatives such as homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate) and ethylhexyl salicylate; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline derivatives; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and its derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene; octocrylene and its derivatives, guaiazulene and its derivatives, rutin and its derivatives, flavonoids, biflavonoids, oryzanol and its derivatives, quinic acid and its derivatives, phenol, retinol, cysteine, aromatic amino acids, peptides having aromatic amino acid residues, and mixtures thereof.
[0344] The UV filter may be present in the composition in a content of at least 0.5% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 3% by weight, and / or in a content of at most 15% by weight, preferably at most 10% by weight, more preferably at most 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0345] The amount of UV screening agent in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably from 1% to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 3% to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0346] Filler The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one filler other than (a) the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel. Two or more fillers may be combined. The filler may be inorganic or organic, preferably inorganic.
[0347] Inorganic fillers can include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, titanium dioxide, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metal soaps, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally with a hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment.
[0348] The inorganic filler may be a composite silica particle. In the context of the present invention, the term "composite silica particle" refers to a silica particle that contains a functional compound, preferably a metal oxide. Therefore, preferably, the composite silica particle can be referred to as a "metal oxide-containing silica particle". Most preferably, the metal oxide is dispersed in the silica particle.
[0349] The metal oxide may be preferably selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and zirconium oxide, or mixtures thereof, more particularly titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, titanium dioxide can be used. In this embodiment, composite silica particles refer to silica (and) titanium dioxide.
[0350] The composite silica particles may have an average particle size determined by image analysis of 0.1 μm or more, preferably 0.5 μm or more, more preferably 1 μm or more, and 50 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, more preferably 12 μm or less.
[0351] The "average particle size" can be determined according to the following procedure: The particle sizes of 50 particles are measured using SEM images and the average particle size is calculated.
[0352] The composite silica particles may be porous or non-porous, and may have a low oil absorption capacity.
[0353] In the composite silica particles, the mass ratio of silica to functional compound (preferably a metal oxide, most preferably titanium dioxide) may be from 9:1 to 5:5, preferably from 4:1 to 3:2, more preferably 7:3.
[0354] The composite silica particles may be surface treated to render them hydrophobic, for example, by treating the composite silica particles with an alkylsilane.
[0355] According to the invention, the inorganic filler may be surface-treated with at least one silicone oil and / or at least one non-silicone oil.
[0356] In one embodiment of the present invention, the inorganic filler may be a colorant or a pigment. The term "pigment" should be understood to mean any shape of mineral or organic particle, white or colored, insoluble in physiological medium and intended to color the composition. The pigment may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic. The average particle size of the coated pigment is generally 100 nm or more.
[0357] Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, for example pigmented titanium dioxide of the rutile type, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, silica, mica, fluorophlogopite, sericite, kaolin, aluminium hydroxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and also metal powders, such as aluminium powder and copper powder.
[0358] The pigment may be a composite pigment. The composite pigment may comprise at least one metal oxide and at least one aluminum oxide (or alumina). According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composite pigment may additionally comprise silica particles. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composite pigment may additionally comprise titanium dioxide. Among the composite particles that may be mentioned are those of Covalumine Sonoma Red AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) CI 77491 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane); Covalumine Sonoma Yellow AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) CI 77492 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane); Covalumine Sonoma Black AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) CI 77499 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Silica); and Covalumine Atlas White AS® (INCI name: Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane), and INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Alumina (and) Silica).
[0359] The pigment may be, for example, surface-treated. The surface treatment compound may be a hydrophobic substance, for example a silane, preferably a C1-C 20 Alkylsilanes, more preferentially tri(C1-C4)alkoxy(C1-C 12) alkylsilanes such as triethoxycaprylylsilane, silicones such as organosilicones, diorganosilicones, dimethicone, hydrogen dimethicone, methicone, polyurethanes, silicone-polyurethanes and their fluoro- or perfluoro-derivatives, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylates / dimethicone copolymers, mixed C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphates / silicone copolymers, lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin, waxes such as carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium acyl glutamate. Other hydrophobic materials may include isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), ITT and dimethicone (ITT / dimethicone) crosspolymer, ITT and amino acids, ITT / triethoxycaprylylsilane crosspolymer, fatty acids (e.g., stearates), HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, PEG-8 methyl ether triethoxysilane, aloe, jojoba esters, and magnesium myristate (MM).
[0360] The organic filler may include acrylic polymer powder, silicone powder, wax powder, polyamide powder, urethane polymer powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, polyacrylonitrile powder, poly-β-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, cellulose powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0361] (Meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powders can include, for example, polymethyl methacrylate crosspolymer, methyl methacrylate / glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder.
[0362] Polyamide powders may include those sold under the name "Orgasol" by the company Atochem. These polyamide powder particles are further known under the names "Nylon 12" or "Nylon 6" due to their different physicochemical properties. Polyamide powders useful in the present invention may also include those sold under the name SP500 by Toray Industries, Inc.
[0363] The filler may be present in the composition in a content of at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, and / or in a content of at most 30% by weight, preferably at most 25% by weight, more preferably at most 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0364] The amount of the filler in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by mass, preferably from 5% to 25% by mass, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0365] Skin care active ingredients Compositions according to the present invention may comprise at least one skin care active. When two or more skin care actives are used, these may be the same or different.
[0366] Preferably, the skin care active is a skin care cosmetic active, more preferably a skin peeling agent, a skin whitening agent, or a skin anti-aging agent, such as an anti-wrinkle agent.
[0367] Skin care actives can include vitamin B3 and derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.
[0368] The skin care active ingredient may be present in the composition in a content of at least 0.3% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 3% by weight, and / or in a content of at most 15% by weight, preferably at most 10% by weight, more preferably at most 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0369] The amount of skin care active in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0370] Additives The composition according to the invention may also contain any other optional additives commonly used in the field of cosmetics, for example selected from cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, hydrophobic organic solvents, gums, dyes, resins, thickeners, film-forming agents other than spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, fragrances, neutralizing agents, pH adjusters, disinfectants, other cosmetic active agents, vitamins such as tocopherol, moisturizers, chelating agents, emollients or collagen protectants, and mixtures thereof.
[0371] The composition according to the invention preferably has a viscosity at room temperature (25° C.) of less than 5000 mPa·s, more preferably less than 3,000 mPa·s, and / or more than 300 mPa·s, more preferably more than 500 mPa·s.
[0372] Viscosity can be measured using VISCOMAN™ (GILSON Technology). Bulk viscosity (mPaS, PaS) is automatically calculated from the suction force required in a small pipette (10 μL).
[0373] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above-mentioned essential components and optional components in a conventional manner.If at least one of the above components is solid at room temperature, it can be heated until it dissolves.It can further include the step of mixing any of the optional components and heating the composition until it dissolves.
[0374] [Method and Use] The composition according to the invention is intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. It may therefore be intended for application to keratinous materials, such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, mucous membranes, such as the lips and the nails, in particular the skin, such as the skin of the face.
[0375] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a skin cosmetic composition, preferably as a skin makeup composition, more preferably as a foundation.
[0376] The present invention therefore also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method or process for the care and / or conditioning of keratinous materials, comprising: The method comprises the step of applying to keratinous materials, such as the skin, scalp and lips, in particular to facial skin, a composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, the composition comprising: (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates; (c) at least one film-forming polymer; (d) at least one anionic polymer, and (e) at least one polyol in an amount of 6% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition; wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0377] The present invention also relates to the use of (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, (b) at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates, (c) at least one film-forming polymer, and (e) at least one anionic polymer for stabilizing an emulsion having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, (d) comprising at least one polyol in an amount of 6% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, the aqueous phase being present in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0378] The same explanations given for the composition, (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, (b) at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates, (c) at least one film-forming polymer, (d) at least one polyol, and (e) at least one anionic polymer, can also be applied to the explanations for the method, process, and use according to the present invention. The composition used in the process and use according to the present composition may contain any of the optional components described above for the composition according to the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0379] The present invention will now be described in a more detailed manner by means of examples, which should not, however, be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0380] Method for preparing W / O type foundation compositions of the present invention and comparative examples The ingredients listed as A1 in Table 1 and Table 2 were thoroughly mixed at 45°C. Then, the disteardimonium hectorite listed as A2 was added, and these were mixed using a Moritz homogenizer at 3,500 rpm for 5 minutes at 45°C. The ingredients listed as C were added, and mixed at 3,500 rpm for 10 minutes at 45°C. The mixture of ingredients was cooled to 25°C. The ingredients listed as D were added, and mixed at 3,000 rpm for 2 minutes at room temperature, and then the ingredients listed as E were added, and dispersed at 2,000 rpm for 5 minutes at room temperature to obtain an emulsion composition.
[0381] Spherical silylated silica aerogel was obtained from Tokuyama Co., Ltd. and had an average primary particle size of 10 μm, an average circularity of 0.88, and a diameter of 592 mm. 2 / g BET specific surface area, pore volume of 4.0 ml / g determined by the BJH method, oil absorption capacity of 6.8 mL / g measured according to JIS-K6217-4, and peak pore radius of 20 nm determined by the BJH method.
[0382] evaluation [Stability] Each composition was left to stand at 45° C. for up to two months. Stability was assessed from changes in appearance, especially separation between the aqueous and oily phases. The criteria were as follows: Excellent: No separation was observed and no decrease in viscosity was observed over a 2 month period. Very good: no separation observed over 2 months and viscosity decreased. Good: No separation was observed and no decrease in viscosity was observed over a period of one month. Fair: No separation was observed over a period of one month, and viscosity decreased. Poor: Separation was observed over a period of one month and viscosity decreased.
[0383] [Sensory evaluation] Ten expert panelists evaluated the sensory aspects of "water-breaking sensation", "moisturizing sensation" and "durability of moisturizing" according to the following criteria: "Water-breaking sensation" was evaluated while the composition was applied to the face. "Moisturizing sensation" was evaluated 5 minutes after the composition was applied to the face. "Durability of moisturizing" was evaluated 6 hours after the composition was applied to the face.
[0384] (Freshness) Excellent: 9 to 10 out of 10 panelists felt it was refreshing. Very good: 7 to 8 out of 10 panelists felt it was refreshing. Good: 5 to 6 out of 10 panelists felt it was refreshing. Average: 3 to 4 out of 10 panelists felt it was refreshing. Poor: 0 to 2 out of 10 panelists felt it was not moist.
[0385] (Moisturizing) Excellent: 9 to 10 out of 10 panelists felt a moist feeling. Very good: 7 to 8 out of 10 panelists felt a moist feeling. Good: 5 to 6 out of 10 panelists felt a moist feeling. Average: 3 to 4 out of 10 panelists felt it was moist. Poor: 0 to 2 of the 10 panelists felt a moist feeling.
[0386] (Durable moisturizing effect) Excellent: 9-10 out of 10 panelists felt moisturized 6 hours after application. Very Good: 7-8 out of 10 panelists felt moisturized 6 hours after application. Good: 5-6 out of 10 panelists felt moisturized 6 hours after application. Average: 3-4 out of 10 panelists felt moisturized 6 hours after application. Poor: 0-2 out of 10 panelists felt moisturized 6 hours after application.
[0387] The results are shown in Table 1 and Table 2.
[0388] [Table 1A]
[0389] [Table 1B]
[0390] [Table 2A]
[0391] [Table 2B]
[0392] As shown in Tables 1 and 2 above, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 9, which contain a combination of components (a) to (e) and an aqueous phase in an amount of 40% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition, exhibited good stability and sensory properties in terms of "freshness," "moist feeling," and "sustained moisturization."
[0393] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not contain the thickening aid of the present invention, showed insufficient stability. The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not contain the film-forming polymer, showed poor moisturizing durability. The composition according to Comparative Example 3, which did not contain the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention, showed insufficient stability and poor moisturizing durability. The composition according to Comparative Example 4, which contained less than 40% by weight of aqueous phase, did not provide a good feeling of freshness. The composition according to Comparative Example 5, which did not contain an anionic polymer, showed insufficient stability and freshness. The composition according to Comparative Example 6, which did not contain the thickening aid and anionic polymer of the present invention and contained less than 40% by weight of aqueous phase, showed insufficient properties in all aspects.
[0394] Therefore, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is of great benefit since it can provide excellent cosmetic properties such as providing a refreshing and moisturizing feeling and good moisturizing durability while maintaining stability. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is very useful as a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as skin, preferably as a skin makeup or skin care composition, especially as a foundation.
Claims
1. A cosmetic emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicones and alkyl or alkylene carbonates; (c) at least one film-forming polymer; (d) at least one polyol in an amount of 6% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; and (e) at least one anionic polymer wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 40% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
2. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is a spherical hydrophobic aerogel of silica silylate.
3. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel has an average circularity of 0.8 or more and less than 1, as determined by image analysis.
4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the film-forming polymer is selected from silicone resins.
5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the film-forming polymer is selected from MQ-type silicone resins.
6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the polyol comprises at least one diol in combination with at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups.
7. 2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the polyol comprises, in combination, at least 3% by weight of at least one diol and at least 3% by weight of at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the number average molecular weight of the anionic polymer is in the range of 1,000 to 1,000,000.
9. 2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, anionic (co)polyamino acids, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acids, (co)polyamic acids, (co)polystyrene sulfonates, (co)poly(vinyl sulfates), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acids, (co)polyfumaric acids, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof.
10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, and salts thereof.
11. 2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the thickening aid is selected from dimethicone copolyols containing polyethyleneoxy moieties.
12. 2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the thickening aid is selected from alkyl or alkylene carbonates, wherein the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonate and / or the alkyl group of the alkyl carbonate contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
13. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one monohydric alcohol.
14. 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, which is a skin makeup or skin care composition.
15. A cosmetic method for keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to said keratinous materials.