A film-forming cosmetic ingredient containing boswellia chick oil and oat kernel oil

Abstract

Provided are cosmetic ingredients comprising Boswellia serrata oil and Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel oil, as well as cosmetic compositions comprising same and methods of use thereof. The ingredients may be used as film formers or to improve the water resistance of cosmetic compositions such as sunscreens.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic ingredients comprising Boswellia serrata oil and Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel oil, cosmetic compositions comprising same, and methods of use thereof. [Background technology]

[0002] The need for cosmetic ingredients to provide water resistance and help retain cosmetic actives in personal care compositions is well known.Without them, personal care actives may be washed off, worn off, re-emulsified, or otherwise lose efficacy.Water resistance is particularly important for sun care compositions, to prevent the protective composition from being easily removed from keratinous substrate surfaces by exposure to sweat and water.

[0003] Since aesthetics is one of the most important considerations in a consumer's choice of, or at least loyalty to, a personal care composition, it is even more important that water-resistance-imparting ingredients, when incorporated into leave-on formulations, are not sticky and do not impart poor aesthetics to the consumer.

[0004] US 4,978,527 teaches a film-forming emulsion containing iodine and a method of using the same. The film-forming emulsion comprises: (a) a substantially water-resistant film-forming copolymer phase comprising A, B and C monomers, where A is a "soft" monomer whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of less than about -15°C and is present at about 15-80% of the total weight of all monomers in the copolymer, B is a "hard" monomer whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of more than about -5°C and is present as about 20-70% of the total weight of all monomers in the copolymer, and C is a monomer capable of complexing iodine and delivering it to the skin and is present as about 1-15% of the total weight of all monomers in the copolymer; (b) about 0.05-15% iodine by weight of the total emulsion; (c) an effective amount of an emulsifier; and (d) about 30-95% by weight water.

[0005] US 4,584,192 teaches a film-forming composition containing an antimicrobial agent and a method of using the same. The film-forming composition is (a) a film-forming copolymer consisting essentially of A, B and C monomers copolymerized as follows: A is a monomeric acrylic or methacrylic acid ester of an alkyl alcohol containing a single hydroxyl, the alcohol being further described as having from 2 to about 14 carbon atoms when the A monomer is an acrylic acid ester, and from about 7 to 18 carbon atoms when the A monomer is a methacrylic acid ester, the weight of the A monomer being from about 15 to 80% of the total weight of all monomers in the copolymer; B is a monomeric acrylic or methacrylic acid ester of an alkyl alcohol containing a single hydroxyl, the alcohol having from 2 to about 14 carbon atoms when the A monomer is an acrylic acid ester, and from about 7 to 18 carbon atoms when the A monomer is a methacrylic acid ester, the weight of the A monomer being from about 15 to 80% of the total weight of all monomers in the copolymer; and C is an N-vinyl lactam whose weight is about 1-15% by weight of the total weight of all monomers in the copolymer; (b) an effective amount of a broad spectrum antimicrobial agent; the composition is dermatologically acceptable and, when applied to the skin from a fugitive solvent, is capable of forming a clear, substantially liquid-resistant, substantially tack-free, flexible film that adheres to the skin and releases the antimicrobial agent to the skin.

[0006] WO 2013 / 148614 teaches water-resistant polymers for personal care. The personal care composition includes a polymer that includes, as polymerized units, (a) 75 to 35 weight percent, based on the weight of the polymer, of one or more (meth)acrylate monomers selected from at least one of C1-C4 (meth)acrylates, (meth)acrylic acid, styrene, or substituted styrenes, and (ii) 25 to 65 weight percent, based on the weight of the polymer, of one or more hydrophobic monomers, including hydrophobically substituted (meth)acrylate monomers, including at least one of C8-C9 (meth)acrylates, (meth)acrylic acid, styrene, or substituted styrenes. 22 (iii) optionally a crosslinker, and (b) at least one personal care active other than a sun care active.

[0007] WO 2015 / 153461 teaches vinyl lactam derived polymers, compositions thereof having improved water resistance, and methods of use thereof. The polymer comprises: (a) at least one N-vinyl lactam monomer, in an amount of from 16% to about 35% by weight of the polymer; (b) at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of functionalized and non-functionalized C1-C6 alkyl (meth)acrylates, C1-C6 alkyl (meth)acrylamides, and combinations thereof; and (c) functionalized and non-functionalized C8-C 30 Branched alkyl (meth)acrylate, C8-C 30 at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of branched alkyl (meth)acrylamides, branched alkyl (meth)acrylamides, and combinations thereof, wherein the polymer has a glass transition temperature greater than about 45°C.

[0008] WO2017 / 087645 teaches non-aqueous compositions of polymers derived from monomers having acryloyl and lactam moieties and uses thereof. The non-aqueous compositions include film-forming polymers that include repeat units derived from at least: (a) at least one monomer that includes at least one functionalized or non-functionalized acryloyl moiety and at least one lactam moiety; (b) at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of functionalized and non-functionalized C1-C7 alkyl (alk)acrylates, C1-C7 alkyl (alk)acrylamides, and combinations thereof; and (c) functionalized and non-functionalized C8-C9 alkyl (alk)acrylates, C1-C9 alkyl (alk)acrylamides, and combinations thereof. 60 Alkyl (alk)acrylates, C8-C 60 At least one monomer selected from the group consisting of alkyl, alkyl(alk)acrylamides, and combinations thereof. Summary of the Invention

[0009] As can be seen, most of the water-resistant ingredients known today are synthetic. However, consumers are becoming increasingly environmentally conscious and are looking for natural alternatives. Therefore, what is needed is a naturally derived water-resistance imparting ingredient that has excellent retention of active ingredients in the presence of water and provides good aesthetic performance.

[0010] Surprisingly, it has been found that the cosmetic ingredient of the present invention provides the important advantages of improved water resistance and good skin feel, among many other advantages, and can be formulated into a wide variety of compositions for many important applications, especially cosmetic applications such as sun care.

[0011] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising Boswellia thick oil and oat kernel oil in a weight ratio of 60:40 to 15:85. In a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetic ingredient and a cosmetic active agent. In a third aspect, the present invention provides a method for improving the water resistance of a cosmetic composition, especially a sun-protected skin or hair care composition, comprising the step of incorporating a cosmetic ingredient into the cosmetic composition. In a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic ingredient as a film former. In a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic ingredient to improve the water resistance of a cosmetic composition.

[0012] The present invention will now be described in more detail. The cosmetic ingredients of the present invention include Boswellia serrata oil and Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel oil. Throughout this application, the terms "boswellia thick oil," "boswellia resin," and "Boswellia serrata oil" are used interchangeably. Throughout this application, the terms "oat kernel oil", "oat oil", "Avena Sativa Kernel oil" and "Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel oil" are used interchangeably.

[0013] Boswellia is a tree of the genus Boswellia in the order Sapindales, known for its fragrant resin. Boswellia species are medium-sized flowering plants, including both trees and shrubs, native to tropical regions of Africa and Asia. Boswellia serrata is the plant that produces Indian frankincense. The plant is native to the Punjab region, which extends across most of India and Pakistan.

[0014] Traditionally, Boswellia is extracted with hexane. For example, this process may include one or more of the following steps: extraction of Boswellia gum resin with hexane; removing the solvent to obtain Boswellia crude oil; extracting the crude oil with aqueous ethanol to obtain an ethanol extract; removing the solvent (optionally under vacuum) to obtain deodorized Boswellia thick oil. Optionally, additional steps of deodorization and / or color reduction may be performed, illustratively by distillation under vacuum, optionally with a co-solvent, using any form of activated carbon, or other such steps well known to those skilled in the art.

[0015] However, Indfrag Biosciences has recently succeeded in preparing Boswellia thick oil by extraction with alcohol, providing a completely natural product. For example, the process may include one or more of the following steps: extracting dried Boswellia serrata gum with ethanol to obtain an ethanol extract; precipitating terpene acids with caustic; filtering; and concentrating.

[0016] Boswellia chic oil is commercially available, for example, from Indfrag Biosciences. It is typically a thick liquid with a yellow to dark brown color, specific gravity of about 0.99-1.2, refractive index of about 1.48 to 1.55, water content ≦2%, and peroxide value <10 meq O2 / kg. However, slightly lower or higher values, e.g. specific gravity, are also acceptable. Indfrag Boswellia chic oil is 100% natural according to ISA16128 standard.

[0017] Boswellia thick oil should not be confused with boswellia (or frankincense) essential oil: Boswellia oleogum resin typically contains about 60-70% ethanol-soluble boswellia resin, about 25-30% water-soluble fraction, and about 5-10% boswellia essential oil.

[0018] Boswellia thick oil or resin is composed primarily of mono-, di-, and tri-terpene acids. The main family (triterpene acids) typically contains six main boswellic acids: - Approximately 15-25% 3-O-acetyl-11-keto-β-boswellic acid (AKBA) - Approximately 15-25% 3-O-acetyl-β-boswellic acid (β-ABA) - Approximately 15-25% β-boswellic acid (β-BA) - Approximately 10-20% alpha-boswellic acid (alpha-BA) - Approximately 5-15% 3-O-acetyl-α-boswellic acid (α-ABA) - Approximately 1-10% 11-keto-β-boswellic acid (KBA)

[0019] On the other hand, frankincense oil contains limonene and α-pinene as the main components. The typical composition of Boswellia essential oil is about 45.1% α-pinene, 14.9% limonene, 10.6% α-thuene, 8.3% myrcene, 7.6% sabinene, 3.4% para-cymene and 10.1% other components. The water-soluble fraction is then typically a polysaccharide fraction having different types of proteoglycans and glycoproteins (classical arabinogalactan proteins).

[0020] Oats (Avena sativa), often called common oat, is a cereal grain grown for its seeds. Oats are suitable for human consumption as oatmeal and rolled oats, but one of their most common uses is as livestock feed. Oats have also been used for thousands of years as a way to soothe and topically treat the skin. The use of oats and extracts made from oats as cosmetic ingredients became widespread in the 1930s, when their power to soothe itching and protect the skin became widely known.

[0021] Oat kernel oil is typically produced by extraction of dehulled and heat-treated oat kernels. For example, oat kernels can be crushed and defatted by water / ethanol extraction to obtain crude oil and flour rich in protein and β-glucan. The crude oil can be further fractionated by a refining process based on polar lipid content, for example into a fraction with about 4% polar lipid, a fraction with about 15% polar lipid, and a fraction with about 40% polar lipid (index value). Optionally, additional steps of deodorization and / or color reduction can be carried out, for example, by distillation under vacuum, optionally distillation with co-solvent, use of any form of activated carbon, or other such steps known to those skilled in the art.

[0022] Oat kernel oil is commercially available, for example from Oat Cosmetics. It is typically a yellow-brown liquid with a density of about 1.0-1.1 kg / l, a water content of less than 20'000 ppm (preferably less than 1500 ppm), and a peroxide value of <10 meq O2 / kg fat. However, slightly lower or higher values, e.g. density, are also acceptable.

[0023] Both oils are completely natural products that comply with several international standards, including COSMOS and ISO 16128. Surprisingly, it has been found that by providing Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil in a weight ratio between 60:40 and 15:85, superior water resistance benefits can be achieved as compared to either the oils alone or in other ratios.

[0024] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention exhibit pleasing aesthetics, excellent film formation, and have excellent retention of active ingredients in the presence of water. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil in a weight ratio between 50:50 and 20:80, more preferably between 45:55 and 25:75, even more preferably between 45:55 and 35:65, and most preferably about 40:60. Depending on the application, these ratios are preferred and have been found to provide excellent water resistance.

[0025] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain other materials or may consist essentially or entirely of boswellia thick oil and oat kernel oil. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition consists of boswellia thick oil and oat kernel oil. Crude oat oil typically has a polar lipid content of about 8-25% of the total lipids, depending on the extraction solvent used.

[0026] Oat kernel oil, which has a relatively high polar lipid content, has been found to give particularly good results. Thus, in one embodiment, the oat kernel oil has a polar lipid content of at least about 25% by weight of the oil, more preferably at least about 30%, even more preferably at least about 35%, and most preferably about 40% by weight. The oat kernel oil may also have a polar lipid content of about 45% or about 50% or more by weight.

[0027] WO 2010 / 10444 describes several methods for preparing oat kernel oil with high polar lipid content by fractionation. The disclosure of WO 2010 / 104444 regarding the preparation of oat kernel oil with high polar lipid content is incorporated herein by reference. The cosmetic ingredient of the present invention can be used to impart water resistance to a cosmetic composition, thereby protecting the cosmetic active agent(s) contained therein. Thus, the present invention also provides a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetic ingredient and a cosmetic active agent.

[0028] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be completely or essentially composed of cosmetic ingredients and one or more cosmetic active agents.Alternatively, the cosmetic composition may further contain optional solvents, excipients, and / or other adjuvants.Any solvents, excipients, and / or other adjuvants commonly used in the preparation of cosmetics can be employed in the present invention.

[0029] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises a cosmetically acceptable excipient. Cosmetically acceptable excipients are well known in the art. Depending on the intended use, suitable excipients can be selected. The cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. Any excipient commonly used in the preparation of cosmetics for use on human skin or hair may be employed in the present invention. Suitable excipients include, but are not limited to, ingredients that may affect the sensory properties, skin penetration, and bioavailability of the cosmetic active agent of the present invention. More specifically, they include liquids such as water, oils, or surfactants, which may be of petroleum, animal, vegetable, or synthetic origin, including, but not limited to, peanut oil, soybean oil, mineral oil, sesame oil, castor oil, polysorbates, sorbitan esters, ether sulfates, sulfates, betaines, glycosides, maltosides, fatty alcohols, nonoxynol, poloxamer, polyoxyethylene, polyethylene glycol, dextrose, glycerol, and the like.

[0030] In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle is selected from the group consisting of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, lotions, creams, oils, biphasic bases, and alcoholic bases. These vehicles have been found to be particularly suitable for use in sun-protective skin or hair care compositions, by way of example.

[0031] The cosmetic composition can take any physical form.For example, the cosmetic composition can be in the form of liposome composition, mixed liposome, oleosome, niosome, ethosome, milliparticle, microparticle, nanoparticle and solid lipid nanoparticle, vesicle, micelle, surfactant mixed micelle, surfactant-phospholipid mixed micelle, millisphere, microsphere and nanosphere, liposphere, millicapsule, microcapsule and nanocapsule, and microemulsion and nanoemulsion, which can be added to achieve higher penetration of cosmetic active agent.

[0032] Cosmetic compositions can be produced in any solid, liquid, or semi-solid form that is useful for topical or transdermal application to skin or hair. Thus, these preparations for topical or transdermal application include, but are not limited to, creams, multiple emulsions, such as, but not limited to, oil-in-water and / or silicone emulsions, water-in-oil and / or silicone emulsions, water / oil / water or water / silicone / water emulsions, and oil / water / oil or silicone / water / silicone emulsions, microemulsions, emulsions and / or solutions, liquid crystals, anhydrous compositions, oils, milks, balsams, foams, aqueous or oily lotions, oily gels, creams, hydroalcoholic solutions, hydroglycolic solutions, liniments, serums, soaps, face masks, serums, polysaccharide films, ointments, mousses, pomades, pastes, powders, bars, pencils, and sprays or aerosols (sprays), including leave-on and rinse-off formulations. Throughout this application, the terms "skin" and "hair" refer specifically to human skin and human hair, respectively.

[0033] The cosmetic ingredients should be included in the cosmetic composition in an amount sufficient to provide the desired water protection benefit. Concentrations of from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 4%, and most preferably about 3% have been found to be particularly suitable. Thus, in one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a cosmetic ingredient in an amount of from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 4%, and most preferably about 3%.

[0034] Good water resistance is particularly important for cosmetic compositions that may be applied prior to contact with water, such as sweat or sea water. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a skin or hair care composition, in particular a sun protection skin or hair care composition. Sunscreen compositions are particularly susceptible to loss of activity by water, since humans tend to sweat and / or use water to cool down, for example by bathing in the sea or a pool. The cosmetic ingredients of the present invention can improve their water resistance, thereby prolonging the sunscreen effect.

[0035] In one embodiment, the cosmetic active is selected from the group consisting of UV filters; anti-aging actives, such as, for example, acetylated sodium hyaluronate or retinol; antioxidants, such as, for example, ferulic acid or vitamin E; moisturizing actives, such as, for example, sodium hyaluronate, Porphyridium cruentum extract or hydrolyzed beta-glucan; soothing actives, such as, for example, bisabolol or Boswellia serrata gum; and mixtures thereof.

[0036] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain any suitable UV filter for protecting the skin and / or hair. The UV filter may be physical or chemical or a combination thereof. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, drometrizole trisiloxane, menthyl anthranilate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, zinc oxide, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl dimethyl para-amino UV filters selected from the group consisting of benzoic acid, homomenthyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, polyoxyethylene(25) para-aminobenzoic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, polysilicone-15, titanium dioxide, trisbiphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof, more preferably sun filters selected from the group consisting of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, zinc oxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid, homomenthyl salicylate, octocrylene, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] The above UV filters are generally known. Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is often abbreviated as BEMT. Para-aminobenzoic acid is often abbreviated as PABA. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is often abbreviated as EHMC. Ethylhexyl salicylate is often abbreviated as EHS. Ethylhexyl triazone is often abbreviated as EHT. Homomenthyl salicylate is often abbreviated as HMS. Octocrylene is often abbreviated as OCR. Polyoxyethylene (25) para-aminobenzoic acid is often abbreviated as PEG-25 PABA.

[0038] Polysilicone-15 (INCI) is an organic compound used in hair products such as shampoos, conditioners, hairsprays, pomades and color treatment products to absorb UVB radiation. In the EU, it is also approved for use in sunscreens and cosmetics. The backbone is composed mainly of siloxane repeating units, and is classified as an oligomer due to its low molecular weight. Its IUPAC name is α-(trimethylsilyl)-ω-(trimethylsilyloxy)poly[oxy(dimethyl)silylene]-co-[oxy(methyl)(2-{4-[2,2-bis(ethoxycarbonyl)vinyl]phenoxy}-1-methyleneethyl)silylene]-co-[oxy(methyl)(2-(4-[2,2-bis(ethoxycarbonyl)vinyl]phenoxy)prop-1-enyl)silylene].

[0039] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more adjuvants, such as preservatives, e.g., phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin; humectants, e.g., glycerin and / or propylene glycol; gelling agents, e.g., xanthan gum and / or cellulose gum; emulsifiers, e.g., sodium stearoyl glutamate and / or glyceryl stearate SE (SE=self-emulsifying); colorants, e.g., CI 42090 (Blue 1) and / or CI 19140 (Yellow 5); and / or fragrances.

[0040] The present invention further relates to a method for improving the water resistance of a cosmetic composition, especially a sun-protected skin or hair care composition, comprising the step of incorporating a cosmetic ingredient of the present invention into the cosmetic composition.

[0041] The cosmetic ingredients may simply be added to the cosmetic composition and mixed together, or there may be additional incorporation steps, such as, for example, heating or cooling, shaking or stirring. Preferably, the cosmetic ingredients are added to the oil phase, for example, with gentle stirring, optionally at elevated temperature (for example, 65-70° C.). The oil phase may then be subsequently combined with one or more other phases, for example, an aqueous phase and / or an alcohol phase.

[0042] The cosmetic ingredient can be used as a film former. The cosmetic ingredient may further be used to improve the water resistance of the cosmetic composition. The present invention is further illustrated by the following non-limiting examples:

[0043] Example 1: Protocol for SPF measurement The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was measured according to the following protocol: 1. Weighing and Diffusion precision 10 -4 A gram laboratory balance (AT200; Mettler Toledo) was used to weigh the products to be tested at 1.3 mg / cm 2 The amount was then spread onto the rough surface of a sandblasted polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plate (Sunplates; Helioscience) according to the protocol described in the ISO 24443 method. 2. Transmittance measurement The transmittance of the PMMA plates was measured with a UV spectrophotometer (Uvikon 933; Bio-Tek Kontron Instruments, or UV-2600i; Shimadzu) equipped with a UV light source and a monochromator capable of delivering UV energy between 290 and 400 nm.

[0044] 3. Irradiation 550W / m using a sun simulator (Suntest CPS+; Atlas) 2The PMMA plate was exposed to UV light for 30 minutes at an irradiance of 1000 x 1000 nm. Thus, the test product received two minimal erythema doses (MEDs). 4. Transmittance measurement The transmittance of the PMMA plates was measured again with a UV spectrophotometer (Uvikon 933; Bio-Tek Kontron Instruments, or UV-2600i; Shimadzu) equipped with a UV light source and a monochromator capable of delivering UV energy between 290 and 400 nm.

[0045] 5. SPF Calculation The in vitro SPF was determined from the total residual UVB and UVA spectrum transmitted through a layer of product spread on a PMMA plate, where the wavefunction T(λ) must be multiplied by: - The first wave function representing the sun spectral characteristic S(λ). - The second wave function describes the skin's reactivity as a function of wavelength (and therefore the dissipated energy): this is the erythema function E(λ).

number

[0046] Example 2: Ethanol oil-based spray with SPF20 (synthetic UV filter) The ability of different film formers to improve water resistance was tested in an ethanol oil-based spray formulation with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 20. The following formulations containing synthetic UV filters were tested: [Table 1]

[0047] The spray formulation to be tested was prepared by heating phase A to 80° C. for 1 hour under gentle stirring, cooling it to 70° C. and adding phase B under gentle stirring, and cooling it to 25° C. and adding phase C under gentle stirring. First, the SPF was determined for each spray formulation as described in Example 1. The PMMA plate with the spray formulation was then immersed for 20 min in a temperature-controlled water bath (30±2° C.) equipped with an adjustable water circulation pump (Polystat 86694; Bioblock Scientific). After the bath, the SPF was measured again. Water resistance was determined according to the following formula:

number

[0048] The following film formers were tested alone or in combination: [Table 2]

[0049] The results are shown in Table 1 below (film formers in parentheses are mixtures and the numbers after indicate the weight ratios). These results show that: - 5% Unimer U-151 is better than 3% Unimer U-151. - Dermacryl 79 is more effective than Unimer U-151. - Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG is better than Boswellia Thick Oil. - SolAmaze Sun Natural MB, Lexfilm Sun Natural MB, Emolid DD, Emolid CC, and mixtures of Boswellia Thick Oil or Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG with Emolid DD and Emolid CC do not improve water resistance. - There is good synergy between Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG and Boswellia Thick Oil. - Best results are observed when Boswellia Thick Oil and Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG are mixed in a 40:60 ratio. - A concentration of about 3% provides best results. - Boswellia thick oil prepared by extraction with ethanol provides similar results as Boswellia thick oil prepared by hexane extraction.

[0050] Example 3: Ethanol oil-based spray with SPF30 (synthetic UV filter) The ability of a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil to improve water resistance was tested in an ethanol oil-based spray formulation with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 30. The following formulations containing synthetic UV filters were tested: [Table 3]

[0051] The test was carried out as described in Example 2 above. The results are shown in Table 2 below. As can be seen from these results, a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia Thick Oil and Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG at a concentration of about 3% provides the best results.

[0052] Example 4: Ethanol oil-based spray with SPF50 (synthetic UV filter) The ability of a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil to improve water resistance was tested in an ethanol oil-based spray formulation with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 50. The following formulations containing synthetic UV filters were tested: [Table 4]

[0053] The test was carried out as described in Example 2 above. The results are shown in Table 3 below. As can be seen from these results, a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia Thick Oil and Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG at a concentration of about 3% provides the best results.

[0054] Example 5: Sunscreen with SPF20 (synthetic UV filter) The ability of different film formers to improve water resistance was tested in a sunscreen formulation with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 20. The following formulations containing synthetic UV filters were tested: [Table 5]

[0055] The sunscreen formulations to be tested were prepared by preparing phase A and heating it to 80°C for 30 minutes, preparing phase D under high agitation at 5000 rpm for 30 minutes, adding premixed phase E to phase D under gentle agitation and heating it to 80°C, adding phase B and phase C to phase A, then adding phase F to the mixture of phases D&E under gentle agitation just before emulsification, adding the mixture of phases D&E&F to the mixture of phases A&B&C under high agitation at 3000 rpm for few minutes, cooling to 30°C under gentle agitation, adding phase G and adjusting pH to 5.5 with phase H.

[0056] The test was carried out as described in Example 2 above. The results are shown in Table 4 below. These results show that: - Only the mixture of Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil provides better water resistance compared to the formulation without film former. - The best results were observed with 30:70, 35:65, and 40:60 mixtures of Boswellia Thick Oil and Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG. - Boswellia Thick Oil mixed with Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG in a ratio of 25:75~45:55 provides over 100% water resistance. - A concentration of about 3% provides best results. - Boswellia thick oil prepared by ethanol extraction provides similar results as boswellia thick oil prepared by hexane extraction.

[0057] Example 6: Sunscreen with SPF 30 (synthetic UV filter) The ability of a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil to improve water resistance was tested in sunscreen formulations with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 30. The following formulations containing synthetic UV filters were tested: [Table 6]

[0058] The test was carried out as described in Example 5 above. The results are shown in Table 5 below. As can be seen from these results, at a concentration of about 3%, a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia Thick Oil and Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG is clearly better than the control without the film former.

[0059] Example 7: Sunscreen with SPF50 (synthetic UV filter) The ability of a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil to improve water resistance was tested in sunscreen formulations with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 50. The following formulations containing synthetic UV filters were tested: [Table 7]

[0060] The test was carried out as described in Example 5 above. The results are shown in Table 6 below. As can be seen from these results, at a concentration of about 3%, a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia Thick Oil and Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG is clearly better than the control without the film former.

[0061] Example 8: Sunscreen with SPF 20 (mineral UV filter) The ability of different film formers to improve water resistance was tested in a sunscreen formulation with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 20. The following formulations containing mineral UV filters were tested: [Table 8]

[0062] The sunscreen formulations to be tested were prepared by preparing phase A and heating it to 80°C, then mixing it at 3000 rpm for 10 minutes, preparing phase D under high agitation at 5000 rpm for 30 minutes, adding premixed phase E to phase D under gentle agitation and heating it to 80°C, adding phases B and C to phase A, then adding phase F to the mixture of phases D&E under gentle agitation just before emulsification, adding the mixture of phases D&E&F to the mixture of phases A&B&C under high agitation at 3000 rpm for few minutes, cooling to 30°C under gentle agitation, adding phase G and adjusting pH to 5.5 with phase H.

[0063] The test was carried out as described in Example 2 above. The results are shown in Table 7 below. As can be seen from these results, both Unimer U-151 and a mixture of Boswellia Thick Oil and Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG at a concentration of about 3% each perform better than the control without film former.

[0064] Example 9: Sunscreen with SPF 30 (synthetic and mineral UV filters) The ability of a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil to improve water resistance was tested in sunscreen formulations with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 30. The following formulations containing synthetic and mineral UV filters were tested: [Table 9]

[0065] The sunscreen formulations tested were prepared by preparing phase A and heating it to 80°C for 30 minutes, adding phase B to phase A at 80°C under gentle agitation and mixing it at 3000 rpm for 10 minutes, preparing phase E under high agitation at 5000 rpm for 30 minutes, adding premixed phase F to phase E under gentle agitation and heating to 80°C, adding phases C and D to the mixture of phases A&B, then adding phase G to the mixture of phases E&F under gentle agitation just before emulsification, adding the mixture of phases E&F&G to the mixture of phases A&B&C&D under high agitation at 3000 rpm for a few minutes, cooling to 30°C under gentle agitation, adding phase H and adjusting the pH to 5.5 in phase I.

[0066] The test was carried out as described in Example 2 above. The results are shown in Table 8 below. As can be seen from these results, at a concentration of about 3%, a 40:60 mixture of Boswellia Thick Oil and Sweoat® Oil PL40 FG is clearly better than the control without the film former.

[0067] [Table 10]

[0068] [Table 11] [Table 12] [Table 13] [Table 14] [Table 15] [Table 16] [Table 17]

Claims

1. A cosmetic ingredient comprising Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil in a weight ratio between 60:40 and 15:

85.

2. 2. The cosmetic ingredient of claim 1, comprising Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil in a weight ratio between 50:50 and 20:80, more preferably between 45:55 and 25:75, even more preferably between 45:55 and 35:65, and most preferably between about 40:

60.

3. 3. A cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1 or 2, consisting of Boswellia thick oil and Oat kernel oil.

4. 4. The cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oat kernel oil has a polar lipid content of at least about 25% by weight, more preferably at least about 30% by weight, even more preferably at least about 35% by weight, and most preferably about 40% by weight.

5. A cosmetic composition comprising the cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and a cosmetic active agent.

6. 6. The cosmetic composition of claim 5, further comprising a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

7. 7. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein the cosmetically acceptable vehicle is selected from the group consisting of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a lotion, a cream, an oil, a biphasic base, and an alcoholic base.

8. 8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to 7, comprising cosmetic ingredients in an amount of about 1% to about 5%, more preferably in an amount of about 2% to about 4%, and most preferably in an amount of about 3%.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to 8, wherein the cosmetic composition is a skin or hair care composition, in particular a sun protection skin or hair care composition.

10. 10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to 9, wherein the cosmetic active is selected from the group consisting of UV filters; anti-aging actives; antioxidants; moisturizing actives; soothing actives; and mixtures thereof.

11. UV filters include Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate disodium, Drometrizole trisiloxane, Menthyl anthranilate, Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, Zinc oxide, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Ethylhexyl triazone, Ethylhexyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid, Homo saponin, Polyisobutene ...

11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the sun filter is selected from the group consisting of momentyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, polyoxyethylene (25) para-aminobenzoic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, polysilicone-15, titanium dioxide, trisbiphenyl triazine and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, zinc oxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid, homomenthyl salicylate, octocrylene, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

12. 13. A method for improving the water resistance of a cosmetic composition, in particular a sun-protected skin or hair care composition, comprising the step of incorporating a cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 into the cosmetic composition.

13. Use of a cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 as a film former.

14. Use of the cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 to improve the water resistance of a cosmetic composition.

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