Compositions and applications, especially for use in the cosmetics field

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising 0.1-8.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-45.0 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, 0.02-0.8 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.05-1.5 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane, and 700-990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil. The composition is used to provide a soothing effect to the skin and / or to maintain homeostasis.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition and to its cosmetic use, in particular for obtaining a soothing effect on the skin and / or for maintaining homeostasis. [Background technology]

[0002] The skin is a complex organ consisting of three layers of tissue: the epidermis, the most superficial layer, consisting of epithelial tissue containing keratinocytes and melanocytes; the dermis, connective tissue that supports the epidermis and contains, among other cells, fibroblasts; and the subcutaneous tissue, adipose tissue located just beneath the dermis.

[0003] The skin constitutes the body's protective barrier against the outside world, but it is also the main sensory organ. Specifically, the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue are innervated crisscross, and contact between the nerve fibers that make up the cutaneous nerve and skin cells has been observed. Cutaneous nerve fibers are known to release neurotransmitters such as substance P, somatostatin, CGPR (calcitonin-gene-related peptide), neuropeptide Y and even endorphins. Skin cells (in the epidermis and dermis) also produce neurotransmitters and express a certain number of receptors for these neurotransmitters.

[0004] CGRP peptide is a pain neurotransmitter, like substance P. It is a 37-amino acid peptide in two forms, alpha and beta, that is released primarily by unmyelinated C-fibers in the epidermis, known as free nerve endings.

[0005] The MOR or μ-opioid receptor is a neuronal endometrial receptor that immunohistochemical studies have shown to be present in cutaneous nerve fibers. It is therefore involved in attenuating pain responses in the skin, and its enhanced expression allows one to obtain an immediate feeling of well-being by reducing pain.

[0006] The skin system is in fact closely interacting with the nervous and immune systems. This is known as the neuro-immune skin system (NICS). It is this system that allows homeostasis to be maintained. It is also the system that explains the skin sensitivity felt by certain people without necessarily having any observable clinical symptoms. The term "sensitive skin" is frequently used. People most often express discomfort with one or more characteristic symptoms such as itching, tingling, tightness, warmth or pain to the touch. These signs originate from sensory neurological elements and are due to the release of neurotransmitters by nerve fibers in the epidermis and dermis. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] Although ingredients already exist in the cosmetic market to attempt to ameliorate this condition of discomfort and pain in "sensitive skin", there is a continuing need for alternative, effective ingredients. [Means for solving the problem]

[0008] The present invention proposes to meet this need by providing a composition of entirely natural origin.

[0009] Surprisingly, the applicant has discovered that a composition comprising 0.1-8.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-45.0 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, 0.02-0.8 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.05-1.5 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane and 700-990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil influences the expression of certain proteins of interest in the neuro-immune skin system, with the unexpected effect of soothing the skin, especially sensitive skin. The composition also influences the increase in the length of nerve cell extensions, allowing homeostasis to be maintained.

[0010] One of the advantages of the composition according to the invention is that it can be produced from a completely natural, non-genetically modified microalgae extract, without any additives other than vegetable oils, it is non-irritating to the skin and does not induce any allergic reactions.

[0011] The compositions according to the invention also enable several components of the neuro-immune skin system to be targeted, making them particularly effective in reducing the sensation of discomfort and pain in the skin.

[0012] Patent application WO 2013 / 032333 A1 describes a composition based on omega-3 fatty acids, in particular eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), astaxanthin and glycerophospholipids, useful for the prevention or treatment of cognitive disorders when administered orally. The raw materials are present in the composition in the form of a microalgae extract. The patent application does not disclose any cosmetic use of such a composition, or even compositions with different ratios of the molecules described.

[0013] Patent application JP 2003 / 063942 describes a skin composition that is useful for treating sensitive skin. The composition comprises an anti-inflammatory agent and a skin barrier function normalizing agent that allows improved skin moisturization. Omega-3 fatty acids are described therein, but as barrier function normalizing agents. Thus, the patent application does not describe the use of omega-3 fatty acids that are effective in reducing skin sensitivity or providing a skin soothing effect.

[0014] Microalgae extracts have also been described for their beneficial effects on the skin. Thus, patent application EP 2 168 570 B1 relates to the use of an extract of Tisochrysis lutea (Isochrysis sp. var. Tahiti) that can modify or influence hair growth and / or skin and hair pigmentation.

[0015] The dermocosmetic formulations described in patent application WO 2015 / 084136 A1 may also contain an extract of microalgae of the genus Isochrysis, said formulations having several activities, such as anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antioxidant activity.

[0016] Patent application WO 2020 / 178213 also describes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of sensitive skin, in particular to reduce redness, which comprises the application of a cosmetic composition containing a hydrophilic, in particular aqueous, extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum. As this extract is hydrophilic, it cannot contain omega-3 fatty acids or xanthophylls.

[0017] Patent application WO 02 / 080876 discloses the use of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as a cosmetic agent to promote proteasome activity in skin cells and for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions designed to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV exposure and to prevent and / or delay the effects of skin aging. The patent application does not describe any soothing effect on the skin. The effect of the extract after UV exposure is an anti-aging effect.

[0018] Thus, to the applicant's knowledge, the soothing effect on the skin of a composition comprising omega-3 fatty acids, xanthophylls, prostaglandin-type compounds and sterols has never been described before, nor has the soothing effect on the skin of a microalgae extract of the genus Isochrysidaceae been described before.

[0019] A first subject of the invention therefore relates to a composition comprising 0.1-8.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-45.0 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, 0.02-0.8 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.05-1.5 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane and 700-990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

[0020] The composition of the present invention is described herein for cosmetic use, but is not limited thereto, and therefore it may be expected to be used according to modes of administration other than those recommended by topical application.

[0021] By way of example, it could be administered orally.

[0022] Another subject matter relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a composition according to the invention for obtaining a soothing effect on the skin and / or for maintaining homeostasis.

[0023] Yet another subject matter relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method comprising the topical application of a composition according to the invention.

[0024] A first subject of the invention therefore relates to a composition comprising 0.1-8.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-45.0 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, 0.02-0.8 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.05-1.5 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane and 700-990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

[0025] Advantageously, the composition comprises 0.1-4.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-20.0 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, 0.02-0.4 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.1-1.2 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane and 800-990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

[0026] More advantageously, the composition comprises 0.1-1.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-5.0 mg / g of omega-3 fatty acids, 0.02-0.2 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.2-1.0 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane and 850-980 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil, and very advantageously, it comprises 0.1-0.5 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-3.1 mg / g of omega-3 fatty acids, 0.02-0.15 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.35-0.8 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane and 950-980 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

[0027] Omega-3 fatty acids are a family of unsaturated fatty acids whose hydrocarbon chain is of the order of 4 to 36 carbon atoms, generally of the order of 14 to 36 carbon atoms, whose double bond or first double bond is on the third carbon-carbon bond, counting from the terminal methyl group of the chain. The unsaturation can be cis or trans, independently of each other. The most representative acids are alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), but the title "omega-3 fatty acids" is not limited thereto. In addition, and especially when the fatty acids are of natural origin, they can be extracted from algae and can be present in the form of free molecules, but also in derived forms, such as esterified forms, for example mono-, di- or tri-esterified forms, or mixtures thereof.

[0028] Preferentially for the purposes of the present invention, the omega-3 fatty acid or at least one of the omega-3 fatty acids is selected from stearidonic acid (SDA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and / or mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the omega-3 fatty acid is SDA.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "xanthophyll" means astaxanthin, canthaxanthin, baucheriaxanthin, lutein, zeaxanthin, diadinoxanthin, neoxanthin, roloxanthin, siphonoxanthin, diatoxanthin, violaxanthin, dinoxanthin, flavoxanthin, α-cryptoxanthin, β-cryptoxanthin, fucoxanthin and / or any one of their derivatives and / or any mixtures thereof. Preferentially, it refers to fucoxanthin and / or any one of its derivatives.

[0030] The term "derivatives" refers to any one of their esterified mono- or multi-esterified forms, their glycosylated forms and / or mixtures thereof.

[0031] Sterols are a well-known family of lipids of sterane core, whose carbon at the 3-position has a hydroxyl group, which can be modified, for example, with an acetyl group. They include natural sterols or plant sterols, which are combined in the present text under the term phycosterol. Plant sterols that may be mentioned include, non-exhaustively, 24-methylene-cholesterol, β-sitosterol, fucosterol, isofucosterol, salingosterol, loxocholesterol acetate, crinosterol, more particularly brassicasterol, stigmasterol and campesterol, preferentially brassicasterol.

[0032] The term "phycoprostanes" refers to a family of naturally occurring structurally prostaglandin-like lipids derived from the non-direct enzymatic oxidation of fatty acids naturally present in microalgal biomass, which are combined in the present text under the term phycoprostanes. In particular, these compounds are selected from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, depending on which fatty acids have undergone oxidation. Thus, these compounds can be derived from fatty acids such as alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), arachidonic acid (ARA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) or docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Phytoprostanes are mainly derived from ALA and can be selected from 9-epi-9F1t-PhytoP, ent-16-epi-16-F1t-PhytoP, 9-F1t-PhytoP, ent-16B1t-PhytoP, ent-9L1t-PhytoP, 16(RS)-16-A1t-PhytoP. The isoprostanes are derived primarily from ARA and EPA and may be selected from 15-E2t-IsoP, 15-F2t-IsoP, 15-epi-15-F2t-IsoP, 5-F2t-IsoP, 8(RS)-8-F3t-Iso. The neuroprostanes are derived primarily from DHA and may be selected from 4-F3t-NeuroP, 10-F4t-NeuroP, 10-epi-10-F4t-NeuroP, 4(RS)-4-F4t-NeuroP, 14(RS)-14-F4t-NeuroP, 20(R)-20-F4t-NeuroP.

[0033] Advantageously, for the purposes of the present invention, the phycoprostane or at least one of the phycoprostanes is selected from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, more advantageously neuroprostanes.

[0034] The term "vegetable oil" means any oil extracted from plants or algae, including microalgae, selected in particular from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil. The term medium chain triglyceride (MCT) means a saturated fatty acid ester of glycerol having a hydrocarbon chain of 6 to 12 carbon atoms. The MCT oil may therefore be selected from coconut oil, advantageously coconut kernel oil, palm kernel oil and coconut oil, but may also be obtained from other fats or oils.

[0035] Advantageously, for the purposes of the present invention, the vegetable oil is coconut oil, very advantageously coconut kernel oil.

[0036] Thus, preferred compositions according to the invention comprise - 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition, preferentially 0.1 to 4.0 mg / g, very preferentially 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g and very advantageously 0.1 to 0.5 mg / g of fucoxanthin, - from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of the composition, preferentially from 1.0 to 20.0 mg / g, very preferentially from 1.0 to 5.0 mg / g and very advantageously from 1.0 to 3.1 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid chosen from stearidonic acid (SDA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and / or any one of their mixtures, - from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of composition, preferentially from 0.02 to 0.4 mg / g, very preferentially from 0.02 to 0.2 mg / g and very advantageously from 0.02 to 0.15 mg / g of at least one phycosterol, - 0.05 to 1.5 μg / g of composition, preferentially 0.1 to 1.2 μg / g, very preferentially 0.2 to 1.0 μg / g and very advantageously 0.35 to 0.8 μg / g of at least one phycoprostanes selected from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, from 700 to 990 mg / g of composition, preferentially from 800 to 990 mg / g and very preferentially from 850 to 980 mg / g of coconut oil, preferably coconut kernel oil Includes.

[0037] Another preferred composition comprises - 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition, preferentially 0.1 to 4.0 mg / g, very preferentially 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g and very advantageously 0.1 to 0.5 mg / g of fucoxanthin, - from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of composition, preferentially from 1.0 to 20.0 mg / g, very preferentially from 1.0 to 5.0 mg / g and very advantageously from 1.0 to 3.1 mg / g of at least stearidonic acid (SDA), - from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of the composition, preferentially from 0.02 to 0.4 mg / g, very preferentially from 0.02 to 0.2 mg / g and very advantageously from 0.02 to 0.15 mg / g of at least phycosterol, - 0.05 to 1.5 μg / g of composition, preferentially 0.1 to 1.2 μg / g, very preferentially 0.2 to 1.0 μg / g and very advantageously 0.35 to 0.8 μg / g of at least one phycoprostanes selected from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, from 700 to 990 mg / g of composition, preferentially from 800 to 990 mg / g and very preferentially from 850 to 980 mg / g of coconut oil, preferably coconut kernel oil Includes.

[0038] Yet another preferred composition comprises: - 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition, preferentially 0.1 to 4.0 mg / g, very preferentially 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g and very advantageously 0.1 to 0.5 mg / g of fucoxanthin, - from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of composition, preferentially from 1.0 to 20.0 mg / g, very preferentially from 1.0 to 5.0 mg / g and very advantageously from 1.0 to 3.1 mg / g of at least one stearidonic acid (SDA), - from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of composition, preferentially from 0.02 to 0.4 mg / g, very preferentially from 0.02 to 0.2 mg / g and very advantageously from 0.02 to 0.15 mg / g of at least one phycosterol, - 0.05 to 1.5 μg / g of composition, preferentially 0.1 to 1.2 μg / g, very preferentially 0.2 to 1.0 μg / g and very advantageously 0.35 to 0.8 μg / g of at least one phycoprostanes selected from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, from 700 to 990 mg / g of composition, preferentially from 800 to 990 mg / g and very preferentially from 850 to 980 mg / g of coconut oil, preferably coconut kernel oil Includes.

[0039] The composition may also comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient selected from natural oils such as argan oil, shea oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, preservatives, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizing creams, thickeners, texture modifiers, conditioners, gloss agents, texturizing agents, film formers, pigments, dyes, fragrances, antimicrobial agents, biological additives, chelating agents, biocides, astringents, polymers, reducing agents, pH adjusters, moisturizers, and conditioning agents.

[0040] The composition according to the invention may be available in any form suitable for cosmetic application, preferentially chosen from a cream, a serum, a gel, a soap, a skin bar, a shower gel, an aqueous or oily solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a facial mask, a lotion, an ointment or a foam.

[0041] The present invention therefore also relates to cosmetic compositions which correspond to any one or more of the properties described above for the compositions of the present invention, whether considered alone or in combination.

[0042] Another subject of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for obtaining a soothing effect on the skin and / or for maintaining homeostasis.

[0043] Preferentially, for the purposes of the present invention, the composition is not used to moisturize the skin.

[0044] The term "cosmetic use" refers to non-therapeutic, i.e. non-pharmaceutical and non-dermatological use; in this indication, it therefore has no therapeutic purpose and will advantageously be applied to all or part of healthy skin; it is not, however, limited thereto and may indeed be applied to all or part of damaged skin without imparting a therapeutic effect.

[0045] The term "healthy skin" refers to any area of ​​skin that is deemed non-diseased by a dermatologist, i.e., an area of ​​skin that is free of injury, redness, infection, scarring, allergies, wounds, disease, eczema, inflammation, acne and / or dermatitis.

[0046] The compositions according to the invention are advantageously applied topically. Thus, in their cosmetic presentation, the compositions according to the invention are in a form suitable for topical application. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical application" refers to the topical application of the composition to the skin or its evaporation on the skin surface.

[0047] The composition is a topically acceptable composition, i.e. a non-toxic composition that is non-irritating to the skin and does not induce an allergic reaction. Furthermore, it may contain at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0048] The composition may be applied topically to at least one area of ​​the skin selected from the face and / or any area of ​​the body, where the term "any area of ​​the body" means any area of ​​the arms, legs, thighs, back, torso, neck, feet and / or hands, including the scalp.

[0049] The term "obtaining a soothing effect" means inducing an immediate calming effect on the skin, advantageously on healthy skin, highly advantageously on skin that is described as sensitive.

[0050] The term "sensitive skin" means healthy skin whose characteristic symptoms are itching and / or stinging and / or tension and / or prickling and / or discomfort, painful and / or burning sensations, but without visible clinical symptoms, i.e. without redness, eczema, dermatitis, scaling or plaques. Thus, sensitive skin for the purposes of the present invention is not allergic skin.

[0051] In one embodiment of the present invention, the term "providing a sedative effect" means reducing the gene and / or protein amount of the neuropeptide CGRP (Calcitonin Gene Related Peptide), also known as CALCA (Calcitonin Related Polypeptide Alpha), a known pain neurotransmitter, in the presence of the composition according to the invention. Advantageously, there is a reduction of at least 22%, preferentially at least 30%, even more preferentially at least 40% of the protein amount of CGRP in the presence of the composition according to the invention, compared to the CGRP protein amount measured in a co-culture of keratinocytes and sensory neurons exposed to oxidative stress without the addition of the composition according to the invention, but in the presence of capsaicin.

[0052] The term "sensory neurons" herein refers to human neurons derived from reprogrammed human fibroblasts. These neurons express the capsaicin receptors TRPV1 (transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V member 1), TrkA, and MOPr, and synthesize substance P and the neuropeptide CGRP in their cytoplasm. They depolarize in the presence of capsaicin.

[0053] More preferably, the protein reduction of CGRP neuropeptide is measured in the presence of a composition concentration of 0.1%, 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample. Very preferentially, the measurement of the CGRP protein amount is carried out by ELISA assay under the conditions as described in Example 2a) [Table 1].

[0054] Alternatively, there is a reduction in the amount of CGRP protein measured in a co-culture of keratinocytes and sensory neurons exposed to oxidative stress in the presence of AITC (allyl isothiocyanate). Advantageously, the CGRP protein reduction is therefore at least 16%, preferentially at least 30%, and more preferentially at least 40% in the presence of the composition according to the invention, compared to the amount of CGRP protein measured in said co-culture exposed to oxidative stress without the composition according to the invention. More advantageously, this refers to a CGRP neuropeptide protein reduction measured in the presence of a composition concentration of 0.05% by weight or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample. Very preferentially, the measurement of the amount of CGRP protein is carried out by ELISA assay under the conditions described in Example 2b) [Table 2].

[0055] In another embodiment of the invention, the term "providing a sedative effect" means increasing the level of gene and / or protein expression of the MOR receptor (μ-opioid receptor) in the presence of the composition according to the invention, compared to the level of gene and / or protein expression of said receptor measured in the absence of the composition (control). In a preferred embodiment, this refers to an increase of at least 14%, preferentially at least 40%, more preferentially at least 100%, very advantageously at least 200% of the protein expression level of the MOR receptor in a co-culture of sensory neurons and human keratinocytes, in the absence of stress, compared to the protein expression level of said receptor measured in the absence of the composition (control). Advantageously, this refers to an increase in the presence of a composition concentration of 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample. More advantageously, the MOR receptor protein expression level is measured by immunolabeling under the conditions described in Example 2c) [Table 3].

[0056] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, this refers to an increase in the level of gene and / or protein expression of the MOR receptor in the presence of a composition according to the invention in a co-culture of human sensory neurons and keratinocytes exposed to oxidative stress in the presence of capsaicin (positive control), compared to the level of gene and / or protein expression of said receptor measured in the absence of the composition (control). Advantageously, this refers to an increase of at least 70%, advantageously at least 150%, more advantageously at least 200% in the MOR receptor protein expression level compared to the protein expression level measured in a co-culture exposed to stress in the presence of capsaicin and without a composition according to the invention.

[0057] More preferably, this increase is measured in the presence of a composition concentration of 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample.More preferably, the MOR receptor protein expression level is measured by immunolabeling under the conditions described in Example 2d) [Table 4].

[0058] Alternatively, it also refers to an increase of at least 35%, even more preferentially at least 50%, and very preferentially at least 200% of the protein expression level of MOR receptor in the presence of the composition according to the invention, compared to the protein expression level of said receptor measured in the absence of the composition (positive control) in a co-culture of human sensory neurons and keratinocytes exposed to oxidative stress in the presence of AITC. More advantageously, this increase is measured in the presence of a composition concentration of 0.05% by weight or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample. More preferentially, the MOR receptor protein expression level is measured by immunolabeling under the conditions described in Example 2d) [Table 5].

[0059] In yet another alternative embodiment of the present invention, the term "providing a soothing effect" refers to reducing the sensitivity of the skin measured in the presence of a composition according to the present invention in the context of a clinical study (see Example 2e). Homeostasis is defined herein as maintaining a balance between the exchange and synthesis functions of various molecular and cellular components at the skin and / or neuronal level, allowing biological parameters to remain constant when exposed to stress or stimuli induced by changes in external circumstances. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "maintaining homeostasis" refers to keeping the neuro-immune skin system (NICS) in a state of equilibrium so that pain experienced is not induced by an imbalance due to a soaring NICS system that is effectively correlated with a negative external stimulus and uncorrelated with the external stimulus. One of the components for maintaining this homeostasis is related to the maintenance of the neural network and, as a consequence, the length of neuronal extensions.

[0060] Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the term "maintaining homeostasis" means maintaining and / or increasing the length of neurons in the presence of a composition according to the invention. Advantageously, the composition is thus capable of maintaining said homeostasis when the length of neuronal extensions increases by at least 14%, preferentially by at least 20%, in the presence of the composition according to the invention, compared to the length measured without the composition in a co-culture of keratinocytes and sensory neurons exposed to oxidative stress in the presence of capsaicin. In a particularly preferred mode, this refers to an increase measured in the presence of the composition at a concentration of 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample, under conditions as described in Example 3 (Table 8).

[0061] In a highly advantageous mode, this refers to an increase in the neuronal outgrowth of non-myelinated C-fibers. More advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not increase the length of myelinated neurites, nor does it increase the length of non-myelinated fibers in the absence of oxidative stress.

[0062] In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition has no anti-inflammatory activity, ie, no inhibitory activity of, inter alia, pro-inflammatory markers.

[0063] Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of a microalgae extract selected from any of the taxonomic groups Pinguiophyceae, Chrysophyceae, Bacillariophyceae, Mamiellophyceae, Prymnesiophyceae, Haptophyceae, Coccolithophyceae, Isochrysidaceae and Phaeodactylaceae for the preparation of a composition according to the present invention. More precisely, said use concerns the preparation of a composition comprising 0.1-8.0 mg / g composition, advantageously 0.1-4.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll; 1.0-45.0 mg / g composition, advantageously 1.0-20.0 mg / g of omega-3 fatty acids; 0.02-0.8 mg / g composition, advantageously 0.02-0.4 mg / g of at least one sterol; and 0.05-1.5 μg / g composition, advantageously 0.1-1.2 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane, to which 700-990 mg / g composition, advantageously 800-990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil is added.

[0064] Very advantageously, the use of a microalgae extract selected from any one of the taxa Pinguiophyceae, Chrysophyceae, Bacillariophyceae, Mamiellophyceae, Prymnesiophyceae, Haptophyceae, Coccolithophyceae, Isochrysidaceae and Phaeodactylaceae provides a concentration of 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g. More preferably, the composition comprises 0.1-0.5 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll; 1.0-5.0 mg / g, and even more preferably, 0.1-3.1 mg / g of omega-3 fatty acid; 0.02-0.2 mg / g, and even more preferably, 0.02-0.15 mg / g of at least one sterol; and 0.2-1.0 μg / g, and even more preferably, 0.35-0.8 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane, to which 850-980 mg / g of composition, and even more preferably, 950-980 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil is added.

[0065] Preferentially, the microalgae extract is derived from the microalgae Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana or Phaeodactylum tricornutum, and even more preferentially from T. lutea.

[0066] The term "microalgae extract" refers to any extract of biomass derived from an organism capable of photosynthesis, obtained by a process that directly or indirectly provides the composition of the present invention. These extracts have a composition, expressed as a percentage by mass of the total extract, of 0.05% to 0.20% protein, 0.005% to 0.050% sterols, and 0.1% to 0.5% chlorophyll.

[0067] More precisely, the lipophilic components of the extract, advantageously the T. lutea extract, expressed as a percentage by mass relative to the lipophilic fraction, comprise 0.438% unsaturated fatty acids, 0.25% omega-3 acids and 0.054% omega-6 acids. Furthermore, said extract comprises, as a percentage by mass relative to the extract, 0.02% to 0.04% xanthophylls. It may therefore comprise 0.035% fucoxanthin.

[0068] The extract also contains 2.65 mg omega-3 acids / g extract and 230 ng phycoprostanes / g extract.

[0069] The microalgae are cultivated in a controlled manner in suitable systems such as waterways, open ponds or preferentially in closed systems of the photobioreactor type. The photobioreactors used may be of any existing type such as horizontal tube photobioreactors, vertical photobioreactors, e.g. "green wall panel" systems, flat photobioreactors or cylindrical photobioreactors. Preferentially, biomass production will be carried out in closed cultivation systems by autotrophy without any impact on arable land.

[0070] Biomass production can be carried out according to batch, fed-batch, continuous, semi-continuous, turbidostat or chemostat type cultivation procedures.

[0071] The extract is obtained by concentrating fresh or frozen biomass, removing all or some of the water using chemical or physical processes such as centrifugation, filtration, flocculation or sedimentation, optionally combined with a drying step such as freeze-drying, vacuum drying, drum drying, spray drying or any other process that reduces the moisture content of the biomass. In addition to these steps, cell lysis processes may be performed, such as the application of pressure, electric current, shear forces, the use of enzymes or any other process that allows the disruption of tissues, organs, cells or organelles.

[0072] The microalgae extract may be obtained by any solid-liquid extraction type process, optionally using supercritical or subcritical fluids, and optionally with parallel or sequential co-treatments such as microwave, ultrasound, pressure or enzymes. The microalgae extract may thus be obtained by extraction under subcritical conditions.

[0073] The extraction can be carried out in the presence of any suitable solvent selected from acetone, hexane, ethyl acetate, methyltetrahydrofuran, heptane, methanol, natural or branched oils, ethanol, or any other solvent that allows all or some of the hydrophobic and amphiphilic compounds to be extracted. The solvent can be used pure or in admixture. The term "in admixture" means herein a mixture with another solvent or with water in a respective solvent / water volume ratio of 99:1 (v / v) to 1:99 (v / v).

[0074] The solvent or solvent mixture can be separated from the remaining biomass after extraction by processes such as centrifugation or filtration, and then concentrated, i.e. the solvent can be removed, by techniques such as vacuum evaporation or any other technique that allows the selective evaporation of the solvent under consideration. The extract thus obtained is lipophilic in nature, but at the same time contains amphiphilic molecules.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the microalgae extract is an extract of Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana or Phaeodactylum tricornutum, more preferentially T. lutea.

[0076] Preferentially, the microalgae extract is obtained by extraction of a biomass, advantageously a fresh biomass, in the presence of an ethanol:water mixture of 99:1 (v / v) to 1:99 (v / v), advantageously 98:2 (v / v) to 30:70 (v / v), more advantageously 95:5 (v / v). Advantageously, it is obtained by extraction from a T. lutea biomass, under the conditions described in Example 1, to obtain a composition according to the invention.

[0077] Another subject of the invention is also the use of a composition according to the invention, advantageously for preparing a composition according to the invention, for obtaining a soothing effect on the skin and / or for maintaining homeostasis, or of any one of the taxonomic groups Pinguiophyceae, Chrysophyceae, Bacillariophyceae, Mamiellophyceae, Prymnesiophyceae, Haptophyceae, Coccolithophyceae, Isochrysidaceae and Phaeodactylaceae, preferentially Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana or Phaeodactylum tricornutum. The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method comprising the oral or topical application, preferentially the topical application, of a microalgae extract selected from T. tricornutum, more preferentially T. lutea. Advantageously, the T. lutea extract used in the cosmetic care method is obtained by extraction of a biomass, advantageously a fresh biomass, in the presence of an ethanol:water mixture of 99:1 (v / v) to 1:99 (v / v), advantageously 98:2 (v / v) to 30:70 (v / v), more advantageously 95:5 (v / v).

[0078] In one advantageous embodiment, the method comprises topical application of the composition to at least one area of ​​skin, preferably healthy skin, selected from any area of ​​the face and / or body, i.e. any area of ​​the arms, legs, thighs, back, torso, neck, feet and / or hands, including the scalp.

[0079] Examples referred to in this description are presented below. These examples are illustrative and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. The examples form an integral part of the invention, and any new features compared to the prior art based on this description, when viewed as a whole, form an integral part of the invention.

[0080] Unless expressly stated, percentages are expressed on a weight / weight basis and temperatures are given in degrees Celsius. EXAMPLES

[0081] Example 1: Composition and method for preparing extract of T. lutea The strain used to prepare the composition according to the invention is CCAP 927 / 14, available from the Scottish Marine Institute by their Culture Collection and Protozoa (CCAP) bank of algae. The geographical origin of this strain is France. The extract is obtained by extraction with an ethanol:water mixture (95:5; v / v) from fresh biomass resulting from an autotrophic photobioreactor culture of the microalga Tisochrysis lutea. It is insoluble in water and highly viscous, making it impossible to handle at room temperature.

[0082] The extract and coconut kernel oil are allowed to come to room temperature (25±1°C) for 24 hours before preparation. The extract is transferred to the centrifuge tube containing the oil so that the final net mass of the mixture is approximately 5g, and the mass proportion is such that the extract constitutes 25% of the total net mass of the mixture. The mixture is stirred for 1 minute using a mixing device known as a vortex. The stirring is repeated 3 times per mixture. A homogenous mixture is obtained.

[0083] The resulting composition is: Omega-3 fatty acids (ALA, SDA, EPA, DHA): 2.65 mg / g composition; Fucoxanthin: 0.35 mg / g of composition; Sterols 0.115 mg / g of composition; Phycoprostane: 230 ng / g of composition; and Coconut kernel oil: 950mg / 1g of composition Includes.

[0084] Example 2: Sedative effect of the composition Example 2a): Protein Depletion of the Neuropeptide CGRP in Co-cultures of Keratinocytes and Sensory Neurons Exposed to Oxidative Stress in the Presence of Capsaicin protocol: Co-culture of neurons and keratinocytes: Sensory neurons were obtained from hiPS cells (human induced pluripotent stem cells), which themselves were derived from human fibroblasts. The cells were seeded and incubated at 37°C (5% CO 2 ) for 6 days in differentiation induction medium. The medium was changed every 2 days. After 9 days in culture, the medium was replaced with maturation medium. 2 Cells were maintained in culture at a temperature of 37 °C under 5% CO. Medium was changed every 2-3 days. After 14 days in culture, commercially available keratinocytes (Lonza) from a 29 year old adult donor were added to the differentiated hiPS cell cultures. 2 Co-cultures were maintained in a medium consisting of a mixture of maturation medium and keratinocyte growth medium (Promocell) at a temperature of 37° C. The medium was changed every 2-3 days.

[0085] Treatment of the co-culture with the composition according to the invention: After a co-cultivation period of 17 days, the compositions were added to the medium at a final concentration of 0.01% or 0.05% (w / w) by weight relative to the total weight of medium and composition.

[0086] After an incubation period of 24 hours, capsaicin (10 μM) or AITC (1 mM) or DMSO (0.2% w / w) as a control was added to the co-cultures in the presence of a composition according to the invention.

[0087] CGRP assay: After a 30 min stress period, culture supernatants were collected and subjected to CGRP assay by ELISA. Results are expressed as the average of 6 samples (n=6).

[0088] result:

[0089] [Table 1]

[0090] Conclusion: The composition according to the invention allows a significant reduction in the protein amount of the CGRP neuropeptide in a co-culture model exposed to oxidative stress in the presence of capsaicin, demonstrating a positive sedative effect of the composition at the concentrations tested (****p<<0.0001 one-way ANOVA test with Dunnett's correction).

[0091] Example 2b): Protein reduction of the neuropeptide CGRP in co-cultures of keratinocytes and sensory neurons exposed to oxidative stress in the presence of AITC Protocol: The protocol is that described in example 2a).

[0092] result

[0093] [Table 2]

[0094] Conclusion: The composition allowed a significant reduction in the protein amount of the CGRP neuropeptide in a co-culture model exposed to oxidative stress in the presence of AITC, again demonstrating a positive sedative effect of the composition at the concentrations tested (****p<<0.0001 one-way ANOVA test with Dunnett's correction).

[0095] Example 2c: Increased MOR receptor protein in unstressed co-cultures of human keratinocytes and sensory neurons Protocol: The protocol for preparing the co-cultures is that described in Example 2a).

[0096] Immunolabeling: At the end of the addition of none [Table 3] or capsaicin (10 μM) [Table 4] or AITC (1 mM) [Table 5] or DMSO (0.2%), culture supernatants were collected and pre-fixed cells were incubated in the presence of primary antibodies raised against β-tubulin (Euromedex) and against MOR (Merck). These antibodies were revealed by fluorescent dye-conjugated secondary antibodies (Fisher Scientific). Nuclei were labeled with Hoechst solution (Sigma-Aldrich), a cell nucleus fluorescent marker, in the same solution as the secondary antibodies.

[0097] Photographs were taken with an automated microscope (InCell 2200; GE Healthcare) at magnification × 20. MOR marker expression density was measured and compared with the control condition, corresponding to the average of six samples (n = 6).

[0098] Statistical analysis was performed using one-way ANOVA corrected with Dunnett's test.

[0099] result:

[0100] [Table 3]

[0101] Conclusion: Basal levels of MOR receptor protein expression were significantly increased by at least 14% in the presence of the composition according to the invention at the two concentrations tested in the absence of stress, compared to the control.

[0102] Example 2d): Increased MOR receptor protein in co-cultures of human keratinocytes and sensory neurons stressed in the presence of capsaicin [Table 4] or AICT [Table 5]

[0103] [Table 4]

[0104] [Table 5]

[0105] Conclusion: regardless of the oxidative stress tested (capsaicin or AITC), the composition according to the invention allowed a significant increase in the level of MOR receptor protein expression in the co-cultures studied, by at least 70% (capsaicin) and at least 35% (AITC), compared to said expression level measured in the co-cultures exposed to the stress. The expression level in the presence of the composition is significantly higher than that measured in the control (non-stressed) co-cultures.

[0106] Example 2e): Clinical evaluation of the sedative effect of the composition Protocol: A clinical trial was carried out on a population of 42 women of Caucasian origin, aged 22-66 years, with healthy skin as defined in the present invention, but with sensitive skin. A cream containing 0.5% of the composition as prepared in Example 1, by weight relative to the total weight of the cream, was applied twice a day over a period of 14 days to the entire face of 21 of the 42 individuals participating in the study. The same cream containing 0.5% (w / w) of placebo (NaOH, water, Yellow 5 dye and NATPURE COL BROWN LC816) was applied under the same conditions to the entire face of the other 21 individuals.

[0107] The measurement of vascular lesions (vascular intensity) was carried out using polarized photography with a high-resolution camera. This technique consists in obtaining high-resolution photographs of 3 / 4 of the face under polarized light under reproducible conditions (Nikkor 60 mm). The camera lens is equipped with a filter. The light is provided by two luminescent flashes. The flashes are directed onto a polarizing gel (HN32 Sarelec, France). The camera filter is placed at 90° to the polarization of the flash filter. The polarized light emitted by the flash is reflected by the facial skin at the moment the picture is taken. The use of dedicated software makes it possible to measure vascular images with an intensity that reflects the effect of the application: a decrease in this intensity corresponds to a decrease in the sensitivity of the skin analyzed.

[0108] result:

[0109] [Table 6]

[0110] [Table 7]

[0111] Conclusion: after 14 days of twice daily application of a cream containing the composition according to the invention, the mean vascular intensity of the analyzed skin was reduced by at least 3.4% relative to time 0 (D0) of said application. In contrast, the mean vascular intensity of the analyzed skin to which the placebo cream was applied was increased by 3.5%, reflecting an increase in the sensitivity of the skin.

[0112] Example 3: Effect on increasing the length of neuronal outgrowths Protocol: The protocol for preparing co-cultures of sensory neurons and keratinocytes is that described in Example 2a).

[0113] At the end of the addition of capsaicin (10 μM) or DMSO (0.2%) as a control [Table 6], culture supernatants were collected and cells were prefixed. Photographs were taken with an automated microscope (InCell 2200; GE Healthcare) at ×20 magnification. Neuronal counts were performed and the length of neuronal outgrowths was measured for each condition. Results were compared with the control condition (n=6). Statistical analysis was performed using one-way ANOVA test followed by Dunnett's test.

[0114] result:

[0115] [Table 8]

[0116] Conclusion: The composition at the concentrations tested allowed a significant increase in the length of neuronal outgrowths, restoring the length measured in controls not exposed to oxidative stress. (*p<0.05; Dunnett-corrected one-way ANOVA test)

[0117] Example 4: Examples of cosmetic formulations containing the present composition Ingredients are listed as weight percentages based on the total weight of the formulation. Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 10.00 Glycerol 2.98 Myristyl myristate 2.50 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 2.00 Sodium polyacrylate 0.60 Composition of the present invention (Ex.1) 0.50 1,2-Hexanediol 0.30 Caprylyl glycol 0.30 Ethylhexylglycerol 0.29 Xanthan gum 0.25 EDTA2Na 0.10 Tocopherol 0.09 Sodium hydroxide 0.02 Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed oil 0.005 Water up to 100

Claims

1. A composition comprising 0.1-8.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-45.0 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, 0.02-0.8 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.05-1.5 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane, and 700-990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

2. 2. The composition of claim 1, comprising 0.1-4.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-20.0 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, 0.02-0.4 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.1-1.2 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane, and 800-990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising 0.1-1.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0-5.0 mg / g of omega-3 fatty acid, 0.02-0.2 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.2-1.0 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane and 850-980 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising 0.1 to 0.5 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, 1.0 to 3.1 mg / g of omega-3 fatty acid, 0.02 to 0.15 mg / g of at least one sterol, 0.35 to 0.8 μg / g of at least one phycoprostane and 950 to 980 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one vegetable oil is chosen from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil and medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil.

6. 6. The composition according to claim 5, characterized in that said medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil is chosen from palm oil or coconut oil, preferentially coconut kernel oil.

7. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the or at least one of the omega-3 fatty acids is selected from stearidonic acid (SDA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and / or any one of their mixtures, advantageously stearidonic acid.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the or at least one of the xanthophylls is fucoxanthin.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the or at least one of the sterols is chosen from plant sterols, advantageously brassicasterol.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the or at least one of the phycoprostanes is selected from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, advantageously neuroprostanes.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it also comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

12. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is in a form selected from the group consisting of creams, serums, gels, soaps, skin bars, shower gels, aqueous or oily solutions, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, facial masks, lotions, ointments and foams.

13. Use of a microalgae extract selected from any one of the taxonomic groups Pinguiophyceae, Chrysophyceae, Bacillariophyceae, Mamiellophyceae, Prymnesiophyceae, Haptophyceae, Coccolithophyceae, Isochrysidaceae and Phaeodactylacea for the preparation of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

14. 14. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the microalgae is Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana or Phaeodactylum tricornutum, preferentially Tisochrysis lutea.

15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 or of an extract according to claim 13 or 14 to obtain a soothing effect on the skin and / or to maintain homeostasis.

16. 16. Use according to claim 15 for obtaining a soothing effect on sensitive skin.

17. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for obtaining a soothing effect on the skin and / or for maintaining homeostasis, or for use in the preparation of any one of the taxonomic groups Pinguiophyceae, Chrysophyceae, Bacillariophyceae, Mamiellophyceae, Prymnesiophyceae, Haptophyceae, Coccolithophyceae, Isochrysidaceae and Phaeodactylaceae, preferentially Tisochrysis lutea. A cosmetic care method comprising the topical application of a microalgae extract selected from Isochrysis galbana or Phaeodactylum tricornutum, and even more preferentially from Tisochrysis lutea.

18. 18. A cosmetic care method according to claim 17, characterized in that it comprises topical application to at least one area of ​​the skin selected from any area of ​​the face and / or any area of ​​the skin selected from the scalp, arms, legs, thighs, back, torso, neck, feet and / or hands.

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