Method for treating keratin fibers and / or scalp with aqueous composition containing c-glycoside compound

Abstract

To provide a method for treating keratin fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, with an aqueous composition comprising at least one C-glycoside compound as a hydrophilic active agent, which can impart an improved feeling of cleanliness and lightness to the keratin fibers and / or scalp, and which also exhibits an improved application feel.SOLUTION: The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, such as the hair and / or scalp, comprising the step of applying to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp a composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount of more than 10 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition. The present invention can provide better application properties, such as less friction, and can provide an improved feel to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, with an aqueous composition comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds. Additionally, the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds. [Background technology]

[0002] In the field of cosmetics, users are increasingly demanding cosmetic compositions that can achieve care effects.To achieve care effects, active agents are generally included in the composition.For the cosmetic compositions containing cosmetic active agents for keratin fibers and / or scalp, oils and water-soluble alcohols are widely used as a medium in cosmetic formulations.

[0003] For example, WO2023 / 112655 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol, (c) at least one oil, and (d) at least one ingredient derived from a Nymphaeaceous plant that is different from (a) the at least one hydrophilic active agent.

[0004] WO2023 / 112544 also discloses a composition comprising (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one oil, (d) at least one nonionic guar gum, and (e) water in an amount of 35% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0005] However, there is still a demand among customers for new methods for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, with compositions comprising at least one C-glycoside compound as a hydrophilic active agent, which can impart an improved feeling of cleanliness and lightness to the keratinous fibers and / or scalp, and which also exhibit an improved application feel. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0006] [Patent Document 1] WO2023 / 112655 [Patent Document 2] WO2023 / 112544 [Patent Document 3] WO02 / 051828 [Non-patent literature]

[0007] [Non-Patent Document 1] C.M. Hansen, "The three-dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol., Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967) [Non-patent document 2] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. [Non-patent document 3] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, with an aqueous composition comprising at least one C-glycoside compound as a hydrophilic active agent, which is capable of imparting an improved feeling of cleanliness and lightness to the keratinous fibers and / or scalp, and which also exhibits an improved application feel. [Means for solving the problem]

[0009] The object of the invention as stated above is a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount greater than 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; This can be achieved by a method comprising the step of applying to the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp a composition comprising:

[0010] (a) The C-glycoside compounds are C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propane- 2'-one, 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, and also cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, for example hydrates, and optical isomers thereof, preferably selected from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0011] (a) The hydrophilic active agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 12.5% ​​by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] (b) The water-soluble alcohol can be selected from monoalcohols and polyols, and preferably the water-soluble alcohol is selected from monoalcohols, diols, and polyols having three or more hydroxy groups, particularly triols.

[0013] (b) The water-soluble alcohol may include at least one monoalcohol, and the monoalcohol may be present in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by mass, preferably from 10% to 30% by mass, and more preferably from 15% to 25% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0014] (b) The water-soluble alcohol may contain at least one polyol, and the polyol may be present in the composition in an amount within the range of 5% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 25% by mass, and more preferably 15% by mass to 20% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0015] (b) The water-soluble alcohol may be selected from a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount of 5% to 35% by mass, at least one diol in an amount of 3% to 25% by mass, and at least one polyol, particularly a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups in an amount of 0.3% to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition; preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount of 10% to 30% by mass, at least one diol in an amount of 5% to 20% by mass, and at least one polyol, particularly a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups in an amount of 0.5% to 5% by mass; more preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount of 15% to 25% by mass, at least one diol in an amount of 10% to 17% by mass, and at least one polyol, particularly a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups in an amount of 1% to 3% by mass.

[0016] (c) The amount of water may be in the range of 15% to 85% by weight, preferably 20% to 75% by weight, more preferably 25% to 65% by weight, even more preferably 30% to 60% by weight, and preferentially 35% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The composition may further comprise at least one oil.

[0018] The oil may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The composition may further comprise at least one additional hydrophilic active agent.

[0020] The additional hydrophilic active agent may be selected from arginine, hydroxyethyl urea, niacinamide, biotin, caffeine, and combinations thereof.

[0021] The composition may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably at least one surfactant selected from non-ionic surfactants.

[0022] Preferably, the method is for caring for and / or conditioning the hair and / or scalp.

[0023] The present invention also relates to a composition for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0024] As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have surprisingly discovered that a method for treating keratin fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, using an aqueous formulation containing at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds and, as a medium, a large amount of water and a small amount of a water-soluble alcohol can impart an improved feeling of cleanliness and lightness to the keratin fibers and / or scalp, and also exhibits an improved application sensation, thereby completing the present invention.

[0025] The present invention therefore relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount greater than 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; to the keratinous fibers and / or scalp.

[0026] The methods and compositions according to the present invention are described in more detail below.

[0027] [method] The method according to the present invention is for treating keratinous fibers and / or scalp. Keratinous fibers herein refer to fibers containing keratin as a main component, examples of which include hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, etc. Preferably, the keratinous fibers of the present invention refer to hair.

[0028] The method according to the invention is preferably for a cosmetic method for treating keratinous fibers and / or the scalp, more preferably the hair and / or the scalp. Cosmetic method here may mean a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous fibers and / or the scalp.

[0029] The application of the composition can be by any conventional means, for example by an applicator such as the hand, a spray, a brush or a comb. The application can be a topical application.

[0030] The compositions to be applied to the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp may take various forms, such as solutions, gels, lotions, serums, suspensions, dispersions, fluids, milks, pastes, creams, foams, emulsions (O / W or W / O), multiple emulsions (for example W / O / W, polyol / O / W and O / W / O), etc. The compositions according to the invention are preferably solutions, in particular homogeneous solutions. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "homogeneous" is intended to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.

[0031] The composition to be applied to keratin fibers and / or the scalp comprises: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] Because the composition contains a relatively large amount of water and a small amount of water-soluble alcohol together with a specific hydrophilic active agent, the method according to the present invention can exhibit less harsh and better application properties on keratin fibers, such as hair.This property can produce a uniform and smooth coating on keratin fibers, such as hair.In addition, because the composition contains a relatively large amount of water and a small amount of water-soluble alcohol, this method can give keratin fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, a cleaner, lighter, watery and refreshing feeling.

[0033] The components included in the composition are described in detail below.

[0034] (hydrophilic surfactant) The composition used in the method according to the present invention contains at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from (a) C-glycoside compounds. Two or more types of C-glycoside compounds may be used in combination as the (a) hydrophilic active agent. Thus, a single type of C-glycoside compound may be used as the (a) hydrophilic active agent, or a combination of different types of C-glycoside compounds may be used.

[0035] Here, the term "hydrophilic active agent" refers to a hydrophilic active agent that is hydrophilic at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa), relative to the total weight of water, at a concentration of at least 1% by weight, for example at least 5% by weight, or at least 10% by weight.

[0036] The C-glycoside compound has the following general formula (I):

[0037] [ka]

[0038] (In the formula, R represents an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, especially C1-C2 alkyl group, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, in particular D-xylose, - X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, preferentially a -CH(OH)- group represented by and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.

[0039] As non-limiting examples of C-glycoside compounds of formula (I) that are particularly suitable according to the present invention, the following compounds may be mentioned inter alia: - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, - as well as cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside compound is selected from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and even better still is C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0041] According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside compound of formula (I) suitable for the present invention is advantageously C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, whose INCI name is hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol and which is sold, inter alia, under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by the company NOVEAL.

[0042] Salts of C-glycosides of formula (I) suitable for the present invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as salts formed with organic or inorganic acids. Examples that may be mentioned include salts with mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic acids, or aromatic acids. These acids may also contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may be made, inter alia, of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.

[0043] The C-glycoside (I) is also known from document WO 02 / 051828.

[0044] (a) The hydrophilic active agent may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] (a) The hydrophilic active agent may be present in the composition in an amount of not more than 20% by weight, preferably not more than 17.5% by weight, more preferably not more than 15% by weight, and even more preferably not more than 12.5% ​​by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] (a) The hydrophilic active agent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 12.5% ​​by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] (Water-soluble alcohol) The composition used in the method according to the present invention includes (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol. Two or more water-soluble alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of water-soluble alcohol may be used, or a combination of different types of water-soluble alcohols may be used.

[0048] The term "water-soluble alcohol" as used herein refers to alcohols that are soluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 This refers to alcohol that can dissolve in 100 mL of water in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more, at a pH of 10 (Pa).

[0049] The water-soluble alcohol of the present invention can be selected from monoalcohols and polyols.

[0050] More preferably, the water-soluble alcohol of the present invention is selected from monoalcohols, diols, and polyols having three or more hydroxyl groups, especially triols.

[0051] More preferably, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol in combination with at least one polyol.

[0052] More preferably, the water-soluble alcohol comprises in combination at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, especially a triol.

[0053] - Monoalcohol The monoalcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and carrying only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.

[0054] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol can be an aliphatic monoalcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0055] The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" as used herein means any linear or branched saturated alkane compound bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.

[0056] The aliphatic monoalcohol present in the composition of the present invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be selected from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] - Polyol For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0059] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention can be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compounds bearing at least two --OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.

[0060] Preferably, the polyols that can be used in the composition are linear or branched compounds, preferably linear alkyl type compounds, carrying at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functional groups, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functional groups, even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functional groups.

[0061] Polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating cosmetic compositions are especially those having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0062] The polyols that can be used are chosen from linear or branched, preferably linear, polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular: diols, such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and butylene glycol, and triols, such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof Examples include:

[0063] Preferably, the diol is selected from pentylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and propylene glycol.

[0064] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol comprises at least one diol.

[0065] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol comprises at least one diol in combination with at least one polyol, in particular a triol, having three or more —OH functional groups.

[0066] The composition comprises water-soluble alcohols, which may comprise at least one monoalcohol and / or at least one polyol, in an amount of less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] The water-soluble alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount of 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, more preferably 15% by weight or more, and even more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Preferably, the composition comprises monoalcohol in an amount of not more than 35% by weight, more preferably not more than 30% by weight, even more preferably not more than 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Preferably, the composition comprises monoalcohol in an amount of at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, even more preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Preferably, the monoalcohol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Preferably, the composition comprises polyol in an amount of not more than 30% by weight, more preferably not more than 25% by weight, even more preferably not more than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Preferably, the composition comprises polyol in an amount of 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, even more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Preferably, the polyol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Preferably, the composition contains both a monoalcohol and a polyol, preferably a combination of a monoalcohol in an amount within the range of 5% to 35% by mass and a polyol in an amount within the range of 5% to 30% by mass, more preferably a combination of a monoalcohol in an amount within the range of 10% to 30% by mass and a polyol in an amount within the range of 10% to 25% by mass, more preferably a combination of a monoalcohol in an amount within the range of 15% to 25% by mass and a polyol in an amount within the range of 15% to 20% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0075] Preferably, the water-soluble alcohol is a diol, which may be present in an amount of 3% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and / or 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 17% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Preferably, the water-soluble alcohol is a diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 17% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] Preferably, the water-soluble alcohol is a polyol, in particular a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups in an amount of at least 0.3% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or at most 7% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, more preferably at most 3% by weight.

[0078] Preferably, the water-soluble alcohol is a polyol, in particular a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups, in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] More preferably, the composition comprises a combination of at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one polyol, particularly triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, 5% to 35% by weight of the monoalcohol, 3% to 25% by weight of the diol, and 0.3% to 7% by weight of the polyol, particularly triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups. More preferably, the composition comprises 10% to 30% by weight of the monoalcohol, 5% to 20% by weight of the diol, and 0.5% to 5% by weight of the triol. Even more preferably, the composition comprises 15% to 25% by weight of the monoalcohol, 10% to 17% by weight of the diol, and 1% to 3% by weight of the triol.

[0080] (water) The composition used in the method according to the present invention comprises (c) water.

[0081] The composition comprises (c) water in an amount greater than 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0082] The amount of water in the composition may be 15% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, more preferably 25% by weight or more, even more preferably 30% by weight or more and preferentially 35% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] The amount of water in the composition may be at most 85% by weight, preferably at most 75% by weight, more preferably at most 65% by weight, even more preferably at most 60% by weight and preferentially at most 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The amount of water in the composition may be in the range of 15% to 85% by weight, preferably 20% to 75% by weight, more preferably 25% to 65% by weight, even more preferably 30% to 60% by weight, and preferentially 35% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] (Optional Ingredients) Additional hydrophilic surfactants The composition used in the method according to the present invention may contain at least one hydrophilic active agent in addition to the (a) C-glycoside compound, which means that the composition may contain at least one additional hydrophilic active agent different from the (a) C-glycoside compound.

[0086] Additional hydrophilic active agents can include, for example, moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, scar-forming agents, blood circulation promoting ingredients, antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] The additional hydrophilic active agent is preferably at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (10 5 It is a solid at 100 Pa.

[0088] The additional hydrophilic active agent is preferably selected from amino acids or derivatives thereof, vitamin B3 or derivatives thereof, urea or derivatives thereof, biotin compounds, caffeine, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] Examples of amino acids or derivatives thereof include betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, β-alanine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, histidine, threonine, tyrosine, taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosine, creatine, epsilon aminocaproic acid, tryptophan, etc. Preferably, the amino acid as the additional hydrophilic active agent is arginine.

[0090] Vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP, has the following formula (I):

[0091] [ka]

[0092] where R can be -CONH (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CHOH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH-COOH (nicotinuric acid), or -CO-NH-OH (nicotinyl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.

[0093] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen group of -CONH, products from the reaction of carboxylic acids with amino acids, and esters of nicotinyl alcohol with carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0094] Mention may also be made of the following derivatives: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0095] Other vitamin B3 derivatives that may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as the chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as those obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, for example acetates, salicylates, glycolates, lactates, malates, citrates, mandelates, tartrates, etc.

[0096] The term "urea derivative" refers to compounds whose chemical formula simply contains a carbonyl group attached to two nitrogen atoms, i.e., the unit:

[0097] [ka]

[0098] means any compound, excluding urea (CO(NH2)2) itself, including

[0099] Preferably, the urea derivative has the formula (I):

[0100] [ka]

[0101] (In the formula, R1, R2, R3 and R4 are independently (i) a hydrogen atom, or (ii) A linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C1 to C5 lower alkyl or alkenyl group, a C1 to C5 alkoxy group, a C6 to C 18 aryl groups, 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic groups, which may optionally be substituted with the following groups: hydroxyl, (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino, e.g., dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C 18 optionally substituted with a group selected from aryl, carboxamido and N-methylcarboxamido represents At this point, it is understood that: - when R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may represent a carboxamido, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C1-C6) alkylcarbonyl, such as acetyl, or a (C1-C6) alkoxycarbonyl group, such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or by hydroxyl, benzyl, or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl group, when R1 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 may represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl group, and R4 may represent an acetyl group; when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 together with the nitrogen atom that carries them can form a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring; - R1 and R2, and also R3 and R4, together with the nitrogen atom that carries them, can form an imidazole ring or a salt thereof, or a hydrate thereof.

[0102] Urea derivatives of formula (I) include: - methylurea, - ethyl urea, - propyl urea, n-butylurea, sec-butyl urea, - isobutylurea, tert-butyl urea, - cyclopentyl urea, - ethoxyurea, - hydroxyethyl urea, N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, 1-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea, - benzyl urea, N-carbamoylmaleamide, N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, - piperidine carboxamide, 1,2,4-triazol-4-yl urea, - hydantoic acid, - methyl allophanate, - ethyl allophanate, - acetylurea, - hydroxyethyl urea, 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea, - Diallyl urea, - chloroethyl urea, - N,N-dimethylurea, N,N-diethylurea, N,N-dipropyl urea, - cyclopentyl-1-methylurea, - 1,3-dimethylurea, - 1,3-diethylurea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, - 1,3-dipropyl urea, - ethyl-3-propyl urea, sec-butyl-3-methylurea, isobutyl-3-methylurea, - cyclopentyl-3-methylurea, N-acetyl-N'-methylurea, - trimethylurea, - butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, - tetramethylurea, and - Benzyl urea.

[0103] Preferentially, the urea or urea derivative as additional hydrophilic active agent is selected from urea and hydroxyethylurea, more preferably hydroxyethylurea.

[0104] Preferably, the additional hydrophilic active agent is selected from arginine, hydroxyethylurea, niacinamide, biotin, caffeine, and combinations thereof.

[0105] The additional hydrophilic active agent may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, even more preferably 2% by weight or more, in particular 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The additional hydrophilic active agent may be present in the composition in an amount of not more than 20% by weight, preferably not more than 15% by weight, more preferably not more than 12% by weight, and even more preferably not more than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] The additional hydrophilic active agent may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight or more, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] ·oil The composition used in the method according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more types of oil may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil may be used, or a combination of different types of oil may be used.

[0109] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance in the form of a liquid, a paste (non-solid), or a solid at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). The oil used in the present invention is preferably in the form of a liquid or a paste at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As the oil, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0110] Among the oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of volatile or non-volatile oils, which may be hydrocarbon-based oils, especially those of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oils do not contain any silicon atoms.

[0112] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0113] For purposes of the present invention, a "polar oil" is defined as an oil having a solubility parameter δ a is 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is intended to mean oil that is other than

[0114] In particular, "polar oil" is intended to mean an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which contains at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0115] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space is described in the article by CM Hansen, "The three-dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol., Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).

[0116] According to this Hansen space, - δ D characterizes the London dispersion force resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, - δ p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced and permanent dipoles, - δ h characterizes the strength of a particular interaction (e.g., hydrogen bonding, acid / base bonding, donor / acceptor bonding, etc.), - δ a is the formula: δ a =(δ p 2 +δ h 2 ) 1 / 2 is determined by

[0117] Parameter δ p , δ h , δ D , and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:

[0118] Preferably, the polar oil used according to the invention has a δ between 4 and 9.1 a , preferably between 6 and 9.1, and even better between 7.3 and 9.1 a It has.

[0119] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester or ether oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0120] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

[0121] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0123] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0124] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, and the total number of carbon atoms in these esters is 10 or more.

[0125] In one embodiment of the present invention, in the case of esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0126] Ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols can be represented by the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably linear, fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched chain, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2≧10.

[0127] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0128] The ester oil is preferably selected from fatty acid ester oils.

[0129] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0130] In particular, mention may be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0131] As ester oil, C6-C 30 of, preferably C 12 ~C 22Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids of the following can be used. The term "sugar" is recalled to mean oxygen-carrying hydrocarbon-based compounds containing at least four carbon atoms, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing some alcohol functional groups. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0132] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0133] Sugar esters of fatty acids are, in particular, those esters of the sugars mentioned above with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids, which, when unsaturated, can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0134] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0136] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl (caprylic / capric acid), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] As an ethereal oil, the following formula: R 1 -OR 2 (In the formula, R 1 and R 2 each independently being a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C 24 Alkyl groups, preferably C6 to C 18 Alkyl groups, more preferably C8 to C 12 (represents an alkyl group) Examples of dialkyl ethers include those represented by R 1 and R 2 It may be preferable that

[0138] Examples of the linear alkyl group include a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and a tetracosyl group.

[0139] Branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, t-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, and 2-hexyl groups. Examples of such alkyl groups include sildecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, 3,7-dimethyloctyl, and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl.

[0140] Examples of the cyclic alkyl group include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0141] Examples of artificial triglycerides include caprylic / caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.

[0142] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0143] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0144] These silicone oils can also be organically modified.The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and in their structure, contain one or more organic functional groups that are bonded via hydrocarbon-based groups.Organopolysiloxanes are more fully defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0145] If volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the names Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold in particular under the names Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, as well as mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, of the following formula:

[0146] [ka]

[0147] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a density of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2 Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 0.1 / s or less. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published by Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Appendix C.

[0148] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used, these non-volatile silicones being more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0149] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, but is not limited to, the following commercially available products: Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as 70 047 V 500 000 oil, oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g., with a viscosity of 60,000mm 2 / sec DC200, and Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0150] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0151] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oils.

[0152] Phenylsilicone oils have the following formula:

[0153] [ka]

[0154] (In the formula, R1~R 10 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 Hydrocarbon groups, preferably C1-C 12 a hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C1 to C6 hydrocarbon group, in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group; m, n, p, and q are each independently an integer of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive; However, the sum n+m+q is not 0.) The phenyl silicones may be selected from the following:

[0155] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names: Silbione® oils from Rhodia, 70 641 series; Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia; - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil, manufactured by Dow Corning; - PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20, Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0156] Phenyl silicone oils include phenyl trimethicone (wherein R to R 10 is methyl, p, q and n=0, and m=1).

[0157] The organically modified liquid silicone may contain, inter alia, polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups, and examples thereof include silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils manufactured by Union Carbide.

[0158] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane, and - mixtures of alkanes, for example C9-12 alkanes, C10-13 alkanes, C13-14 alkanes, C13-15 alkanes, C14-17 alkanes, C14-19 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, C18-21 alkanes, C8-9 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-10 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-11 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-16 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C10-12 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-14 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-15 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C12-13 alkanes / cycloalkanes.

[0159] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0160] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohols refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched.

[0161] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl and C 12 ~C 20 R may be selected from the group consisting of an alkenyl group, which may be substituted or unsubstituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0162] The aliphatic alcohols can have the structure R-OH, where R is a saturated or unsaturated linear group containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0163] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0164] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] The aliphatic alcohol is preferably a saturated aliphatic alcohol. Thus, the aliphatic alcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 You can choose from alcohol.

[0166] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long, saturated aliphatic carbon chain. A saturated fatty alcohol is any linear or branched, saturated C-C 30 Preferably, the alcohol is selected from linear or branched saturated C6-C aliphatic alcohols. 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols may be preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20Fatty alcohols are more preferably used. 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols are even more preferably used.

[0167] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

[0168] It is also preferred that the oil is chosen from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0169] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, and is composed of short chain hydrocarbons (C1 to C 12 ), ester oils (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols (C 12 ~C 30 ) type oils, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0170] Preferably, the oil is selected from polar oils, more preferably from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof. Further preferably, the oil comprises both ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols represented by the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a residue of a linear fatty acid containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and fatty alcohols having the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated branched groups containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0171] The oil may preferably be selected from ester oils and fatty alcohols.

[0172] In a preferred embodiment, the oil is selected from ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, such as ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and combinations thereof, and fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0173] The amount of oil in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] The amount of oil in the composition may be up to 20% by weight, preferably up to 15% by weight, more preferably up to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] The amount of oil in the composition may be in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably 3% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] Surfactants The composition used in the method according to the present invention may contain at least one surfactant. Two or more types of surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant may be used, or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.

[0177] The surfactants may be selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, and may be used alone or in mixtures.

[0178] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from non-ionic surfactants. Thus, the composition may comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0179] Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the invention include polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (INCI names Laureth-9 to Laureth-50), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain, for example containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, such as glycerol and C8-C 24 Esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearates (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearates), such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate;24 Esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, e.g., C8-C 24 Polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of fatty acids, in particular polysorbate 80, for example the product sold by Croda under the name "TWEEN® 80", and polysorbate 21, for example the product sold by Croda under the name "TWEEN® 21"; 24 Ethers of fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers; polyoxyethyleneoxypropylene alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanolamines; alkylamine oxides; alkyl polyglycosides and silicone surfactants, such as polydimethylsiloxanes containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups, for example, PEG-10 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone, and PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone, and alkyl dimethicone copolymers, especially those containing alkyl groups having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and and those having 2 to 50 oxyethylene groups and 2 to 50 oxypropylene groups, such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone) and lauryl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 methicone); and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; and mixtures thereof.

[0180] In addition, as a nonionic surfactant, a compound represented by the following general formula (1): RO-(G) x (1) (wherein R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl group containing 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reducing sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, x represents a value in the range of 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 4, and G represents, in particular, glucose, fructose or galactose) Examples of alkyl polyglycosides of this type include alkyl polyglucosides (G=glucose in formula (I)), particularly alkyl polyglycosides in which R is more particularly an oleyl group (an unsaturated C 18 group) or isostearyl group (saturated C 18 Mention may be made of compounds of formula (I) in which G represents a hydroxyl group, G is glucose, and x is a value in the range of 1 to 2, in particular isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. The alkyl polyglycosides can be used in mixtures with co-emulsifiers, more particularly with fatty alcohols, in particular with fatty alcohols having the same aliphatic chain as the alkyl polyglycoside, i.e., 14 to 24 carbon atoms, and branched and / or unsaturated, such as isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglycoside is isostearyl glucoside, or oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglycoside is oleyl glucoside. For example, a mixture of isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol, sold by Seppic under the name Montanov WO 18, and a mixture of octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside, sold by Seppic under the name Fludanov 20X, can be used.

[0181] The amount of surfactant in the composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] The amount of surfactant in the composition may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, more preferably 1.5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0183] The amount of surfactant in the composition may be in the range of 0.1% to 3% by mass, preferably 0.3% to 2% by mass, more preferably 0.5% to 1.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0184] Adjuvants The composition used in the method according to the invention may further comprise, in addition to component (b), one or more adjuvants common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology selected from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a water-soluble organic solvent; a cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymer, or mixtures thereof, such as cationic polysaccharides; a gelling agent; a thickening agent; a penetrating agent; a pH adjuster; an anti-dandruff agent; an antioxidant; a moisturizer; an emollient; a lipophilic active agent; a free radical scavenger; a suspending agent; a sequestering agent; a buffer; a fragrance; an emollient; a dispersing agent; a dye and / or pigment; a film-forming agent; a stabilizer; a preservative; a co-preservative; an opacifier; an essential oil; and mixtures thereof.

[0185] Of course, one skilled in the art will carefully select any optional adjuvants added to the composition so that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition of the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0186] The adjuvant may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount preferably in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] The composition used in the method according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients described above according to any of the methods well known to those skilled in the art.

[0188] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a method comprising the following steps: (i) The soluble ingredients, such as deionized water, hydrophilic active agent, water-soluble alcohol, and optional water-soluble ingredients, such as surfactants, if present, are added to a beaker at room temperature. (ii) The mixture from step (i) is stirred until all ingredients are fully dissolved. (iii) Add other ingredients, such as oil, to the mixture from step (ii). (iv) The mixture from step (iii) is stirred until all ingredients are fully dissolved.

[0189] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (a) 0.1% to 20% by weight of C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 1-(C-alpha ... at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, for example hydrates thereof, and optical isomers thereof; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol selected from at least one monoalcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) 15% to 85% by mass of water to the keratinous fibers and / or scalp.

[0190] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (a) 5% to 12.5% ​​by weight of at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; (b) at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one polyol, particularly triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups, in combination in an amount of less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, and at least one polyol, particularly triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups, in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 7% by weight, more preferably in the range from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount within the range of 15% to 25% by mass, at least one diol in an amount within the range of 5% to 20% by mass, and at least one polyol, particularly a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups in an amount within the range of 0.5% to 5% by mass, more preferably at least one water-soluble alcohol selected from a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount within the range of 15% to 25% by mass, at least one diol in an amount within the range of 10% to 17% by mass, and at least one polyol, particularly a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups in an amount within the range of 1% to 3% by mass; (c) 35% to 55% by mass of water to the keratinous fibers and / or scalp.

[0191] [Additional Optional Steps] - Additional front-end processes The method according to the present invention may include an optional step of washing the keratin fibers, such as the hair and / or scalp, before applying the composition. The washing step can be carried out, for example, by washing the keratin fibers with shampoo and then rinsing the keratin fibers. The washing step is preferably carried out once before the method of the present invention is carried out.

[0192] After rinsing, the keratin fibers and / or scalp may be dried. The method for drying the keratin fibers and / or scalp is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include drying with a towel and blow drying with a hair dryer.

[0193] When the method according to the present invention includes a step of washing the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp before applying the composition, the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp may be wet or dry, preferably wet, immediately before the step of applying the composition to the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp is carried out.

[0194] - Additional post-processing The method according to the present invention may or may not include a step of rinsing the applied composition from the keratin fibers and / or scalp after the application step. Since the composition used in the method according to the present invention is preferably intended for use as a leave-on (or leave-in) type cosmetic composition, in order to enhance the cosmetic effect, the method preferably does not include a step of rinsing the applied composition from the keratin fibers and / or scalp immediately after the application step.

[0195] The present invention may include an additional subsequent step of drying the keratin fibers and / or scalp. The method for drying the keratin fibers and / or scalp is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include drying with a towel and blow drying with a hair dryer.

[0196] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers and / or scalp may be left in place for a specific length of time, typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 15 minutes, after application of the composition, if necessary, to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratin fibers and / or scalp.

[0197] [Composition] The present invention provides (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount greater than 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising:

[0198] The composition according to the invention may be a cosmetic composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, in particular to keratinous fibers, preferably to the hair and / or scalp.

[0199] The compositions used according to the present invention are preferably intended to be used as leave-on (or leave-in) cosmetic compositions. The term "leave-on" refers to a composition that is not intended to be washed / rinsed off or removed immediately after application. Leave-on compositions differ from rinse-off compositions, which are intended to be rinsed off after application to keratin fibers and / or the scalp.

[0200] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, preferably the hair and / or the scalp.

[0201] The compositions according to the invention may take various forms, such as solutions, gels, lotions, serums, suspensions, dispersions, fluids, milks, pastes, creams, foams, emulsions (O / W or W / O), multiple emulsions (e.g. W / O / W, polyol / O / W and O / W / O), etc. The compositions according to the invention are preferably solutions, in particular homogeneous solutions. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "homogeneous" is intended to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.

[0202] The components (a) to (c) in the composition are the same as those described in the method according to the present invention. In addition, the composition according to the present invention may contain other optional components described in the method according to the present invention. The composition according to the present invention can be prepared as described in the method according to the present invention. [Example]

[0203] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0204] (Methods according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2) The methods according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were carried out according to the following protocols.

[0205] Three hair tresses (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each tress was washed with the plain shampoo shown in Table 1. After shampooing, the tresses were rinsed with water and then towel-dried. 0.20 g of each of the compositions shown in Table 2 was applied to each tress and left for 5 minutes before being blow-dried.

[0206] Each of the compositions used in the methods according to Examples 1 and 2 (Ex. 1 and 2) and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 (Comp. Ex. 1 and 2) was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2 below. All numerical values ​​for the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are based on the "wt %" of the raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition. MEXORYL SCN® hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol product was obtained from NOVEAL.

[0207] [evaluation] (sensory evaluation) Sensory evaluation was performed by five experts on dry hair tresses for each of the compositions on the following criteria with a five-level rating (very poor, poor, fair, good, and very good) for "squeakiness during application," "lightness / cleanness of coating," and "evenness of coating."

[0208] The scores thus obtained were averaged, and the results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0209] [Table 1]

[0210] [Table 2]

[0211] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 2, the methods according to Examples 1 and 2, which used compositions containing at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds (hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) and a specific amount of water-soluble alcohol and water, provided improved sensations during application to hair and better sensations after coating, such as improved lightness and cleanness of the coating, and improved coating uniformity.

[0212] In contrast, the methods according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which did not use compositions containing specific amounts of water-soluble alcohol and water, resulted in a more harsh feel during application to the hair, and the sensory profile of the hair after coating was not much better in terms of lightness and clean feeling of the coating, as well as the uniformity of the coating, compared to the method according to the invention.

[0213] It can therefore be concluded that the method according to the invention is highly advantageous for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular the hair and / or the scalp.

Claims

1. 1. A method for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount greater than 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; applying to keratinous fibers and / or the scalp a composition comprising:

2. (a) The C-glycoside compound is C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'- 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose is selected from the group consisting of acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-2-aminopropane, 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, and also cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof, for example hydrates thereof, and optical isomers thereof, preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

3. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) the hydrophilic active agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 12.5% ​​by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the (b) water-soluble alcohol is selected from monoalcohols and polyols, more preferably from monoalcohols, diols, and polyols having three or more hydroxy groups, in particular triols.

5. 5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the (b) water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol, and the monoalcohol is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. 6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein (b) the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one polyol, and the polyol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. 7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the water-soluble alcohol (b) is selected from a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, and at least one polyol, particularly a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, and at least one polyol, particularly a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight; more preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 10% to 17% by weight, and at least one polyol, particularly a triol, having three or more hydroxyl groups in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight.

8. 8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of (c) water is in the range of from 15% to 85% by weight, preferably from 20% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 65% by weight, even more preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, and preferentially from 35% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. 9. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one oil.

10. 10. The method according to claim 9, wherein the oil is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 11. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional hydrophilic active agent.

12. 12. The method of claim 11, wherein the additional hydrophilic active agent is selected from arginine, hydroxyethyl urea, niacinamide, biotin, caffeine, and combinations thereof.

13. 13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition further comprises at least one surfactant, preferably at least one surfactant selected from non-ionic surfactants.

14. 14. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for caring for and / or conditioning the hair and / or scalp.

15. A composition for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of less than 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount greater than 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; A composition comprising:

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