Manufacture of woven fabric products

Abstract

An annular loom (10) for continuously weaving a woven fabric having a variable diameter includes a variable diameter weaving hoop (41), independently actuated healds (20), and at least one shuttle (15) including a weft insertion arm (30) mounted to a linear rail system (289) configured to adjust the position of the weft insertion arm (30) based on the diameter of the weaving hoop (41). A related method includes varying the diameter of the weaving hoop (41), independently actuating the healds (20), and adjusting the position of the weft insertion arm (30) along the linear rail system (289) to continuously produce hollow textile articles (100) having a variable diameter.

Description

Related Applications

[0001] [CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS]

[0001] This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 63 / 304,944, entitled "Manufacturing Woven Textile Products," filed January 31, 2022, which is incorporated herein by reference. [Technical field]

[0002] This invention is in the field of woven fabric manufacturing, and more particularly is directed to a circular loom for weaving hollow fabric articles such as apparel.

[0003] [Statement Regarding Government Sponsored Research or Development]

[0003] This invention was made with government support under Grant Number 1831088 awarded by the National Science Foundation. The United States Government has certain rights in this invention. [Background technology]

[0004]

[0004] Fabric and clothing production has remained largely unchanged for many years. Clothing is generally produced in large quantities, stored in warehouses, and transported to and displayed at clothing stores. Many different sizes of each type of clothing need to be stored and displayed to accommodate the different sizes of the various people who shop at clothing stores. Clothing manufacturers and sellers simply estimate how many items of each size of clothing will sell and produce the estimated amount of clothing. There are costs associated with storing clothing, and when manufacturers produce the wrong amount of clothing, sales can be lost due to the lack of desired clothing sizes and excess clothing inventory can go unsold. Excess inventory is often disposed of in landfills or incinerated, causing substantial environmental damage.

[0005]

[0005] Woven fabrics have several advantages over knitted fabrics. For example, woven fabrics are less prone to stretching and losing their shape. Woven fabrics are relatively thin. In addition, woven fabrics are lighter because less yarn is needed to cover the same area. However, one disadvantage of woven fabrics over knitted fabrics is that creating a three-dimensional final woven product generally requires sewing together several distinct pieces of woven fabric. For many years, manufacturers have relied on "cut-and-sew" garment production. The production of woven garments involves a multi-step process of weaving a raw fabric sheet, cutting the fabric sheet into panels, and sewing the panels into a three-dimensional garment. Two distinct woven fabrics are sewn together to form a seam. If the product is to change dimensions or add new parts, a different distinct woven fabric and therefore a seam is typically required.

[0006]

[0006] When different pieces of fabric are cut and sewn together, some fabric is wasted. Often, at least 15% of a plain woven fabric is wasted during the cutting operation. In addition, the process of cutting and sewing the fabric is typically a costly manual process. With this in mind, the garment manufacturing industry would benefit from creating seamless garments to reduce both material and labor costs and take advantage of economies of scale.

[0007]

[0007] To address some of these issues, circular looms have been developed that can produce garments at high speeds. For example, U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2016 / 0281277, incorporated by reference, describes techniques for creating three-dimensional woven textile products. The disclosed three-dimensional weaving techniques can be used to create a variety of textile products. However, current circular looms are designed to weave at a fixed output size, meaning that the loom produces a woven tube of a constant diameter. Circular looms can be reconfigured to weave at different diameters, but this involves rethreading the machine and physically replacing some components. Due to this constraint, current circular looms cannot continuously weave fabrics with varying diameters, and circular weaving is commercially limited to a constant diameter weaving output.

[0008]

[0008] US Patent Application Publication No. 2020 / 0048799, also incorporated by reference, discloses a system and method for producing seamless woven materials with variable three dimensions. The system and method generally operate by modifying heald positions to impart a three-dimensional structure to the woven fabric. Weft yarns are interwoven with a set of warp yarns that are individually raised and lowered along a specific cross-section, and the weave is essentially locked into the intended three-dimensional configuration. However, such an arrangement cannot be easily modified during production. Also, such an arrangement is complex and expensive due to the requirement that each individual heald has a motor and / or actuator. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0009] [Patent Document 1] U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 63 / 304,944 [Patent Document 2] US Patent Application Publication No. 2016 / 0281277 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2020 / 0048799 [Patent Document 4] U.S. Patent No. 5,839,481 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0010]

[0009] In view of the above, there is a need for a system and method that can efficiently produce irregularly shaped woven fabrics with three-dimensional structures and improved structural performance with reduced material. More specifically, there is a need to form garment parts with varying diameters along their length, so that different sizes can be produced on the same machine, or even to an individual's unique body shape. With the above in mind, there remains a need in the art for a way to produce garments on demand to eliminate waste, as one aspect. Direct three-dimensional weaving of complete garments or even garment parts with continuously varying diameters would reduce cutting waste from the cutting process. Direct three-dimensional weaving would also reduce waste from excess inventory. There is also a need to eliminate waste from cutting patterns and reduce production time and other costs associated with cut-and-sew production. [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] The present invention is directed to a system and method for continuously weaving textile products having varying diameters, such as garments, fabrics, and the like, or even diverse items such as composite structures, inflatable structures, medical devices, fire hoses, or bags. Weaving is performed using a loom with a variable diameter weaving ring, the diameter of which is modified during the production of garments. Individual healds are assembled in groups to form heald units. Independently actuated heald units are employed to further control the weaving process. Each heald unit includes an actuator for moving the heald unit. Alternatively, the heald units are driven by mechanical cams or linkages. The heald units are modular, and each heald unit can be replaced as needed for repair or other reasons. The shuttles are provided with a bobbin that supports the weft yarn and a weft insertion arm attached to each shuttle.

[0012] To compensate for the changing size of the weaving ring, the weft insertion arm is configured to move radially inward and outward in response to the diameter change of the weaving ring. An adjustment unit or adjustment system is configured to adjust the position of the weft insertion arm. The system includes a linear rail for supporting the insertion arm and an actuator for moving the weft insertion arm along the rail. One end of the arm is supported on the shuttle and the other end of the arm supports an eyelet. The weft thread extends from the bobbin to a sensor that detects weft breakage. The weft yarn extends through the sensor to an eyelet on the insertion arm. This arrangement allows the weft thread to be inserted where the warp yarns meet the weaving ring, resulting in improved continuously variable weaving. The sensor is preferably a spring-loaded mechanism that supports the weft yarn. The weft yarn exerts pressure on the spring-loaded mechanism of the sensor. If the weft yarn breaks, the spring-loaded mechanism rotates and activates the sensor.

[0013]

[0012] In alternative embodiments, the weft insertion arm preferably moves in a non-radial and / or at least non-linear trajectory. For example, a combination of revolute joints may be used to achieve the same desired motion profile. There are various linear mechanisms that can be employed to achieve these goals. In these alternative embodiments, the weft insertion point, i.e. the tip of the insertion arm, still effectively moves in a radial manner, but the arm itself may be adapted to follow a different trajectory.

[0014]

[0013] In combination with the adjustment of the weaving rings, the heald units must dynamically change the weave pattern to accommodate the changing weave diameter. Each time the weft line crosses the warp line, an incremental amount of fabric length is added to the overall circumference of the weaving output. By modifying the weave pattern of the heald units, the number of weft crossings can be modified in a manner that reduces the overall circumference of the weaving output in coordination with the adjustment of the weaving rings. Common weave patterns include 2x1 twill, 3x1 twill, and 4x2 twill, although any arbitrary arrangement of warp lines is feasible. Specifically, a 2x1 twill with many weft crossings is suitable for large diameter outputs, a 3x1 twill with fewer weft crossings is suitable for medium diameter outputs, and a 4x2 twill with even fewer weft crossings is suitable for small diameter outputs.

[0015] The variable diameter weaving ring is preferably made of a flexible nylon strip. A portion of the flexible strip is placed in a circle to form the variable diameter weaving ring, while another portion of the flexible strip extends beyond the circle and is stored on the take-up mechanism. The loom preferably has a plurality of support arms for supporting the variable diameter weaving ring. Each arm includes a pivotally mounted guide configured to slidably support the variable diameter weaving ring. More specifically, each guide preferably includes two fingers configured to slidably support the variable diameter weaving ring therebetween. Other support configurations are suitable, including rollers, hybrid roller finger tongues, and single finger tongues. The diameter of the weaving ring is increased by moving the support arms radially outwardly and removing a portion of the flexible strip from the take-up mechanism. The arms are mounted for synchronous movement to allow the arms to move radially outward simultaneously and to ensure that the weaving ring maintains a circular shape as it expands in diameter.

[0016] In operation, the warp yarns are pulled off the storage bobbins and brought to the healds. The healds are individually actuated to control the warp yarns as they are woven with the weft yarns. The warp yarns are shunted by the healds from an upper position to a lower position. The lines that the warp yarns follow from the healds in the upper position to the weaving rings and the lines that the warp yarns follow from the healds in the lower position to the weaving rings define a warp shed. During weaving, the shuttle passes the weft yarns through the warp shed and the healds shunt between the upper and lower positions, thus weaving the weft yarns into the warp yarns. The process of continuously weaving a fabric using a circular loom includes changing the diameter of the weaving ring while synchronously moving the support arms and changing the weave of the healds and moving a portion of the flexible material forming the ring to or from the winding mechanism. As suggested above, to compensate for the change in diameter of the weaving ring, weaving further includes adjusting the position of the weft insertion arm along a linear rail system on each shuttle.

[0017]

[0016] This overall approach allows for the continuous weaving of fabrics with varying diameters along the length of the output, thereby enabling direct weaving of garment components (i.e., one pant leg, shirt sleeve, dress, etc.). The system can also be used to create a bifurcated output that allows for direct weaving of a complete garment. This approach to fabric manufacturing is similar to 3D printing.

[0018]

[0017] Additional objects, features, and advantages of the present invention will become more readily apparent when the following detailed description of the preferred embodiment is considered in conjunction with the drawings, in which like reference characters refer to corresponding parts in the several views.

[0019]

[0018] The disclosure will become more fully understood when the following description of various exemplary embodiments is considered in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which: [Brief description of the drawings]

[0020] [Figure 1] 1 is a perspective view of a loom according to a preferred embodiment of the invention; [Diagram 2] FIG. 2 is a top view of the loom shown in FIG. 1. [Diagram 3] 2 shows a close-up view of an adjustable weaving hoop from the loom of FIG. 1; [Figure 4] FIG. 4 is a top perspective view of a support arm holding the weaving ring of FIG. [Diagram 5] FIG. 4 is a bottom perspective view of the support arm holding the weaving ring of FIG. [Figure 6] The support arms in Figures 4 and 5 are shown connected to a synchronising mechanism. [Figure 7] 1 shows a take-up mechanism for storing the excess of the flexible strip forming the weaving loop. [Figure 8] Shows the support arms gradually retracting to accommodate the expanding weaving hoop. [Figure 9] Together with FIG. 8, this shows the support arm being retracted. [Figure 10]8 and 9 together show the support arm being retracted. [Figure 11] It shows two shuttles passing through the warp shed and arms for supporting the weaving wheels. [Figure 12] FIG. 2 is a close-up view of the shuttle from the loom of FIG. 1, showing details of the insertion arm. [Figure 13] FIG. 2 is a top view of a synchronization sensor for controlling the healds of the loom of FIG. 1; [Figure 14] FIG. 14 is a perspective view of the sensor of FIG. 13. [Figure 15] FIG. 2 shows a detailed view of a heald unit of the loom shown in FIG. 1; [Figure 16] Together with FIG. 15 a detailed view of the heald unit is shown. [Figure 17] It shows a pair of trousers made on the loom of Fig. 1. [Figure 18] 1 shows the arrangement of magnetic sensors used to synchronize the weaving rings, healds and shuttles. [Figure 19] FIG. 13 is a side view of an alternative arrangement of the heald units; DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0021]

[0035] The following detailed description should be read with reference to the drawings, in which similar elements in different drawings are labeled with the same reference numerals. The detailed description and the drawings, which are not necessarily to scale, depict exemplary embodiments and are not intended to limit the scope of the disclosure. Rather, the depicted exemplary embodiments are for illustrative purposes only. Selected features of any exemplary embodiment may be incorporated into other embodiments, unless expressly stated otherwise. While the disclosure is susceptible to various modifications and alternative forms, details thereof have been shown by way of example in the drawings and have been described in detail. It should be understood, however, that it is not intended to limit aspects of the disclosure to the specific exemplary embodiments described. On the contrary, it is intended to cover all modifications, equivalents, and alternatives falling within the spirit and scope of the disclosure.

[0022] [Definition]

[0036] As used throughout this application, the translations of the singular articles "a," "an," and "the" include the plural, unless expressly indicated otherwise. Additionally, the term "or" is used generally in its sense including "and / or" unless expressly indicated otherwise.

[0023]

[0037] "Yarn" refers to any string-like input to a weaving process. Yarn is a generic term referring to a continuous strand of textile fiber, filament, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, braiding, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric, and is often used interchangeably with "thread" and "line."

[0024]

[0038] "Weave" refers to a system or pattern of interlacing warp yarns and fill yarns. The term "weave" is used to describe a wide range of fabrics that are non-knitted or non-woven fabrics. Plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave are all types of weave.

[0025]

[0039] "Weft and warp" are terms used to refer to the constituent yarns in a weave. The warp yarns run longitudinally to the production direction, while the weft yarns, sometimes called "fill yarns", run latitudinally to the production direction.

[0026]

[0040] "Threads per inch" is a measure of the density of a fabric.

[0027]

[0041] "Ends per inch" (EPI) is a similar measure used when looking at warp yarns, while "picks per inch" (PPI) is used when looking at weft yarns.

[0028]

[0042] "Heddle" refers to a structure, usually in the form of a loop or eyelet, that can control the movement of the warp yarns (shedding movement). The specific construction of a heddle can vary in different machines.

[0029]

[0043] "Shed" refers to the temporary separation between the upper and lower warp yarns, and is often used interchangeably with "warp shed." A warp shed is also the triangular shaped opening that is formed in the warp line when the healds move. The term is also often used as a verb to describe the action of the upper and lower warp yarns switching positions.

[0030]

[0044] A "shuttle" is a movable loom component that acts as a carrier for the weft line and travels through the warp shed to deposit the weft line.

[0031]

[0045] "Weft insertion" refers to the act of inserting a weft yarn into a weave, usually via a shuttle carrying a weft bobbin.

[0032]

[0046] "Weft insertion point" means a point radially spaced from the weaving ring at which a weft yarn is deposited.

[0033]

[0047] "Crimp" refers to the waviness of a fiber. More specifically, crimp is a measure of the degree of waviness present in yarns within a woven fabric due to interweaving.

[0034]

[0048] "Cover factor" refers to the ratio of the area occupied by a yarn to the total area of ​​the fabric.

[0035] [Overview]

[0049] FIG. 1 shows a perspective view of a weaving 10 according to a first preferred embodiment of the invention. The weaving 10 is an annular weaving, i.e. it can be considered as a series of flat weavings arranged in a circle. The principle of operation is generally the same as for flat weaving, with the main difference being that one or more shuttles 15 advance continuously, one of which is marked in FIG. 2, which depicts a top view of the weaving 10. The weaving 10 has six shuttles, four of which are shown. The weaving 10 can have as few as one shuttle, or as many as physically fit within the diameter of the weaving 10, six being preferred. Due to the circular shape of the weaving 10, the shuttles 15 pass by the heald units 20 during operation. When one of the shuttles 15 leaves the warp shed of one of the heald units 20, it enters the warp shed of the adjacent heald unit. Some of the heald units 20 are upright (reference 25) and some are in an inverted arrangement (reference 30). The inverted heald units 30 provide space 35 for the operator to access the interior parts of the loom 10. Although not shown in Figure 1, all the heald units 20 can be mounted in an inverted manner, and such an arrangement is considered to be preferred. The heald units 20 are adjustable. Although not shown in Figure 1, a supply of yarn is provided to the heald units 20 during operation of the loom 10.

[0036]

[0050] With reference to Figures 1 and 2, the loom 10 includes a variable diameter weaving ring 45 (Figure 2) and a number of variable position weft insertion arms 50, one on each shuttle 15. The loom 10 includes a system of individually actuated heald units 20, all controlled by a heald control board 522 (Figure 1). Preferably, the loom 10 has 36 individually actuated heald units 20, each with 20 individual healds, of which only 18 are used during weaving. However, if the loom 10 were larger, more heald units would preferably be provided, and there would be more healds per unit. The loom 10 preferably has six weft insertion shuttles 15, although only four are shown in Figure 2, and one variable diameter weaving ring 45.

[0037] [Variable diameter weaving ring]

[0051] 3, a variable diameter weaving ring 45 is positioned where the warp line 80 meets the weft line 85 to form the weft insertion point 90 to create the fabric product 100. The fell line 105, designated as the edge of the weave where the last weft line 85 is placed, is the interface where the unwoven warp line 80 interweaves with the weft line 85 to form the woven fabric product 100. The bottom of the weaving surface of the weaving ring 45 is preferably continuous and smooth to avoid tangling and breaking of the warp lines 80 during weaving. A set of support guides 115 support the weaving ring 45.

[0038]

[0052] As best seen in Figures 4 and 5, the variable diameter weaving ring 45 is formed as a portion of a flexible strip 125 supported by five guides 115. A number of support arms 130 support the guides 115. The flexible strip 125 may be described as semi-rigid, creating a continuous weaving surface. The flexible strip 125 overlaps itself at an overlap point or location 155, and the overlap of the excess strip material 190 increases or decreases as the circle formed by the flexible strip 125 becomes larger or smaller.

[0039]

[0053] The support arms 130 move synchronously to achieve proper weaving. A chain drive 195 (see Figures 6 and 7) ensures synchronous movement between all of the support arms 130 and helps maintain a circular output always centered on the Z-direction output axis 196 of the loom 10. While the chain drive transmission 195 is the preferred synchronization mechanism, other options are possible. For example, timing belts, ring gears, cam mechanisms, and other linkages may be employed. If a non-circular output of the textile product 100 is desired, such as an oval or elliptical output or an output not centered on the output axis 196, the support arms 130 may be actuated individually. However, the loom 10 as shown is set up to produce a circular textile product 100. Thus, the support arms 130 are linked together using a chain 200 that engages a sprocket 210 of the chain drive transmission 195 as can be seen in Figures 5, 6, and 7.

[0040]

[0054] The support arms 130 passively follow the shape of the flexible strap 125. The support arms 130 function to provide support along the output axis 196 of the loom 10. Alternatively, the support arms 130 could be moved using a single actuator that moves all of the support arms 130, or each arm could be fitted with an individual actuator. Each of the support arms 130 is preferably provided with a joint encoder 230 (FIG. 6) to indicate the angular position of the respective arm. However, the loom 10 could also be made to function with only one joint encoder on a single support arm. The support arms 130 provide support for the flexible strap 125 continuously along the output axis 196 as it forms the weaving loop 45 of varying diameter. The number of support arms 130 required depends on the maximum unsupported strap length 235 (FIG. 4) that a given strap material can support before buckling. With only a few support arms 130, the unsupported strap length 235 increases. When the diameter of the weaving ring 45 increases, the non-support strap length 235 also increases. Although five support arms 130 are preferred, fewer support arms can be used. Using fewer supports limits the maximum weaving ring diameter before the increasing non-support length 235 (FIG. 4) leads to failure. More support arms 130 can be used, but this limits the minimum weaving ring diameter before the support arms 130 interfere with each other. However, more than five support arms are preferred for wider weaving ring diameters, and more support arms may be needed to reduce the non-support strap length if a more flexible material is employed for the flexible strap. The support arms 130 are preferably positioned perpendicular to the weaving ring 45. One of the support arms 130 holds a joiner guide 240 (FIG. 5) where the excess strap material 190 leaves the weaving ring 45. Alternatively, the support arms 130 may be tangent to the weaving ring 45, especially when the weaving ring 45 is at its minimum diameter. The advantage is that the band 125 converges to a central location which can be the location for the winder mechanism described below.

[0041]

[0055] As best seen in Figures 4 and 5, the guide 115, which holds the flexible strap 125 in a circular configuration, assists in forming the weaving ring 45. The guide 115 preferably has an inner finger 250 and an outer finger 251 that hold the weaving ring 45 therebetween. The guide 115 is pivotally mounted on the support arm 130. The flexible strap 125 slides through the guiding guide 115 as the support arm 130 changes position as more or less of the flexible strap 125 is fed into the weaving ring 45. The guide 115 is preferably made of aluminum, with low friction surface contact between the aluminum guide 115 and the variable diameter weaving ring 45 allowing relative movement between the guide 115 and the flexible strap 125. Alternatively, a rolling connection, not shown, could be used between the guide 115 and the flexible strap 125.

[0042]

[0056] As shown in Figures 4-7, to adjust the diameter of the variable diameter weaving ring 45, the desired command is sent by the control system 70 to the weaving ring control board 253. The desired command may be in the form of a single command or a sequence of commands representing the entire weave. The weaving ring control board 253 then sends a command to the motorized winder 252 which is provided to take in or take out a calculated amount of excess strip material 190 (Figure 5) as required. A motor 255 powers the take-up winder 252 (Figure 7). The motor 255 rotates a gear reduction unit 260 which is connected by a coupling 270 to a pulley 265. The pulley 265 is provided with a wheel 271 which takes in or pays out excess flexible strip material 190 (not shown in Figure 7) as required. A pulley encoder 275 senses the position of the pulley wheel 271 and provides a signal that is used to determine how much of the flexible strip 190 has been dispensed. The size of the circle formed by the flexible strip 190, and thus the size of the variable diameter weaving ring 45, may be measured directly or the diameter may be calculated by taking angle measurements of the support arm 130 using the arm encoder 230 (FIG. 6). The support arm 130 is shown in a fully extended position corresponding to the smallest diameter of the weaving ring 45 in FIG. 8, in an intermediate position corresponding to an intermediate diameter of the weaving ring 45 in FIG. 9, and in a retracted position corresponding to the largest diameter of the ring 45 in FIG. 10. The variable diameter weaving ring 45 is designed not to interfere with the warp shed 231 shown in FIG. 11, yet still allow the operator access to the lines of warp yarns 80 and the lines of weft yarns 85 to be woven.

[0043]

[0057] The flexible ribbon forming the weaving ring 45 must be stiff enough to resist lateral torsional buckling, yet flexible enough along its length to bend. More specifically, the variable diameter weaving ring 45 must be stiff enough to avoid lateral torsional buckling under the load of the warp lines 80, yet flexible enough to curl to a smaller diameter about the output shaft 196 (FIG. 4) to create the smaller diameter fabric product 100 as shown in FIG. 3. The ribbon is preferably made of a polymer, more preferably nylon 6 / 6, or another polymer, metal, or composite material having a similarly desirable combination of stiffness, strength, and frictional properties.

[0044]

[0058] To synchronize the movement of the weaving ring 45 and the weft shuttle, the loom 10 includes one or more sensors configured to directly detect the presence of one or more shuttles at known angular positions within the loom 10. In one embodiment, the shuttles may include magnets that are detected by stationary magnetic sensors located on the periphery of the loom 10. Detection of the shuttle by the magnetic sensors is communicated via a synchronization control signal 72 to the weaving ring control board 253 which will select to perform the desired command upon receiving the communication.

[0045] [Weft insertion arm]

[0059] Figure 12 shows a close-up view of one of the weft shuttles 15 from Figure 2. In one most preferred configuration, the loom 10 varies the radial location of the weft insertion arm 50 passing through a linear guide or rail system 289 mounted at the end of a linear actuator 285 to support the weft insertion arm 50 from side loads and to protect the linear actuator 285 from bending. The weft insertion arm 50 receives the weft yarn 85 (Figure 3). The location is moved by the linear actuator 285 in response to a position sensor 290, preferably a flexible potentiometer. The weft insertion arm 50 is preferably mounted on the shuttle 15. A weft bobbin 291 supports the weft yarn, not shown, and rotates about an axis defined on the shuttle 15. The weft yarn passes through an electromechanical weft break sensor 350 to an insertion finger 300 connected to a linear actuator 285 where the weft yarn is positioned / inserted near the variable weaving hoop 45 and incorporated into the weave forming the textile product 100 as best seen in FIG. 3. An on-board battery 320 powers an on-board shuttle control board or controller 325 which controls the linear actuator 285 and receives feedback from both the linear position sensor 290 and the weft break sensor 350. The on-board shuttle control board 325 also communicates with the loom control system 70 (FIG. 1) via wireless signals. A stepper motor 360 with an integral encoder 370 transmits radial motion through a one-to-one belt drive system 380 to a lead screw drive assembly 390 which in turn converts the radial motion of the belt drive system 380 into linear motion via a carriage 395 on a lead screw 400. The loom 10 actively monitors for weft breaks via a weft break sensor 350 .

[0046]

[0060] 2 and 3, as the variable diameter weaving ring 45 changes diameter, the insertion point 90 located near the end of the arm 50 is altered to ensure that the correct length of weft yarn 85 is deposited and tensioned correctly. Position feedback from a linear position sensor 290, shown in FIG. 12, to the shuttle control board 325 is used to actively check the position of the insertion arm 50 as it progresses through the distance of the linear actuator 285.

[0047]

[0061] As can be best seen in Figure 18, in order to synchronize the movement of the weft insertion arm 50 and the weaving ring 45, the shuttle 15 includes one or more sensors arranged to directly detect the presence of one or more landmarks at known angular positions within the loom 10. In one embodiment, the shuttle 15 may include a magnetic sensor 410 that detects a stationary magnet 412 located on the periphery of the loom 10. Detection of the magnet 412 by the magnetic sensor 410 is communicated via a synchronization control signal 71 to the shuttle control board 325 which, upon receiving the communication, will select to carry out the desired command. In a similar manner, the sensor 510 provides synchronization control signals 72, 73 to the control boards 253 and 522, respectively.

[0048] [Weft break sensor]

[0062] Referring again to FIG. 12, the weft break sensor 350 includes a magnetic Hall sensor 460 and a series of ceramic components. The weft yarn, not shown, is routed through three contact points. The first contact point is a fixed ceramic element 475 over which the weft yarn is routed. The second contact point is a spring-loaded ceramic eyelet 480 biased by a spring 481, which has one degree of rotational freedom. The weft yarn is routed through the eyelet 480. The third contact point is the ceramic insertion finger 300. When the weft yarn breaks, the spring-loaded ceramic eyelet 480 rotates to expose a magnet above the magnetic Hall sensor 460. The sensor 460 sends a digital signal to the shuttle control board 325.

[0049] [Electronic control unit]

[0063] As can be seen in FIG. 12, the shuttle control board 325 is powered by a battery 320. For example, a commercially available 6s LiPo battery could be used. The shuttle control board 325 is a specialized control board. The wireless communication board 326 is a separate wireless connectivity module that receives signals from the main control system 70 (FIG. 1) of the loom 10 (FIG. 1). The wireless communication board 326 can operate using a variety of technologies including, but not limited to, WiFi, Bluetooth, Zigbee, or radio. The wireless communication board 326 is connected to the shuttle control board 325 via a wired connection and relays commands from the main control system 70 to the shuttle control board 325. The shuttle control board 325 can check the commands and report errors. The shuttle control board 325 preferably uses Modbus, which is a communication protocol that allows communication between programmable logic controllers. However, other communication protocols could be employed. A communications protocol is preferably used to allow the shuttle control board 325 to communicate with the linear actuator 285 as well as a wireless modem. The shuttle control board 325 receives a digital signal from the weft break sensor 350 and an analog signal from the linear position sensor 290. Battery charge is monitored by the shuttle control board 325.

[0050] [Held]

[0064] In a standard circular loom, the heald units are mechanically linked to the main core rotor and shuttle motion via cam tracks and lever arms. Individual heald control is known for linear looms, see US Patent Application Publication No. 2020 / 0048799, incorporated herein by reference. In a circular loom 10, the heald units 20 (FIG. 1) are not mechanically connected to the main core. The rotation of the main core of the loom 10 triggers the heald transitions, not by means of a cam system. Instead, as best seen in FIGS. 14 and 15, an array of Hall effect sensors 510 is electronically connected to the heald units 20. FIG. 13 shows a perspective view of the loom 10 below the shuttle 15, while FIG. 14 shows a perspective view of the Hall array sensor 510. As can be seen from FIGS. 15 and 16, which show close-up views of the heald units 20, each heald 500 has two operating states: high and low. A Hall effect sensor 510 acts as a synchronization sensor and triggers a high to low heald transition as the shuttle 15 passes the sensor 510. As the shuttle 15 passes the sensor 510, it automatically triggers a pusher block 520 which moves between a high and low position. The shuttle pusher block 511 has a magnet 512 attached to it so that the sensor 510 senses the passage of the magnet 512. The low to high heald transition of each heald 500 is further controlled by a heald control board 522, which may be a separate control or may be part of the control unit 70.

[0051]

[0065] As best seen in Figures 1, 15 and 16, each heald unit has a belt-driven pusher block 520 that moves between a high and a low position. The block 520 moves a group of individual jacquard hooks / fingers 521 between the high and low positions. When moving in an upward direction, the jacquard hooks / fingers 521 are pushed by the pusher block 520. When moving in a downward direction, the jacquard hooks / fingers 521 are pulled down by individual springs attached to the heald eyelets. At the top of the stroke, the jacquard hooks / fingers 521 are selectively locked / released by an electromagnetic latching mechanism. A heald control board 522 determines which jacquard hooks 521 are selectively locked or released, the selection corresponding to any given weave. Details of the latching mechanism are described in more detail in U.S. Pat. No. 5,839,481, which is incorporated herein by reference. Each of the jacquard hooks 521 is correspondingly connected to a heald eyelet that controls the position of the warp line. Referring to Figure 1, the pusher block movement is driven by a brushless DC motor 550 attached to a timing belt loop 560. Alternatively, the belt may be replaced with a mechanical linkage such as a crank rocker or cam linkage. The position of the pusher block is controlled via a geared encoder 570 attached to the main drive shaft. Alternatively, the position of the pusher block may be sensed directly.

[0052]

[0066] The jacquard mechanism is integrated into the heald units 20. Each heald unit 20 has its own drive motor 550, and is therefore modular. The heald units 20 can be installed in various positions on the loom and replaced as required. There are preferably 36 individual units mounted on the loom 10. Each heald unit preferably has at least 18 functional healds 500, each warp line is routed through a single heald eyelet, and the heald units 20 can control the opening and closing of the warp shed 231 (Figure 11). During weaving, the heald units 20 open in sequence to open the shed 231 as the shuttle 15 passes through it. This arrangement provides control of more than 720 warp lines. Other arrangements allow a larger number of healds 500, either by increasing the number of healds 500 or by increasing the number of healds per heald unit. In certain weaves, two or more warp lines may be routed through one heald eyelet.

[0053]

[0067] This arrangement allows the opening and closing of the shed profile 231 to be decoupled from the movement of the shuttle 15. This allows the weave pattern to be varied within the fabric product 100. The loom 10 can weave weaves in which there are multiple weft threads in a single warp shed opening, such as basket weaves. Common twill weaves can also be achieved, including 2x1 weaves, 3x1 weaves, and 4x2 weaves. Certain twill weaves have reduced weft crossovers, and by altering the weave pattern of these twills, the effective circumference of the fabric can be controlled.

[0054]

[0068] In an alternative embodiment shown in FIG. 19, the heald units 20 are not physically co-located with the main core of the circular loom 10, but are instead somewhat spaced from the core. The heald units 20 may be arranged in groups so that mechanical couplings and transmission elements can be shared between the units. A group of heald units 20 is known as a heald bank 610. Each heald unit 20 can still maintain its own shedding motion, but is mechanically indexed with respect to adjacent healds in the heald bank 610. During weaving, the mechanical indexing causes the heald units 20 to sequentially shedding, creating a sinusoidal shed pattern on the loom core. When viewed from the side as in FIG. 19, the resulting heald eyelet positions will resemble a sine wave. The sine wave progresses with the angular motion of each shuttle as it is captured in an open shed.

[0055]

[0069] In this embodiment, the heald units 20 may be mechanically coupled to the movement of the main core using a mechanical transmission 620. The heald units 20 may optionally be electronically coupled to the movement of the main core using the synchronization methods previously described or using other known means such as encoders. In either approach, the individually actuated healds are still electronically synchronized with the movement of the main core, the weaving rings and the shuttle, thus allowing the creation of a variable weave.

[0056]

[0070] As can be best seen in Figure 19, the heald eyelets 630 and springs 640 are still in the same position as they are on the main core of the circular loom 10. The eyelets 630 are mechanically connected to the Jacquard hooks 521 by a Jacquard cord 650. The Jacquard cord 650 can be routed in a variety of configurations, allowing the larger mechanical components of the heald units 20 to be mounted remotely from the main core of the circular loom 10, thus improving operator access to the weaving area of ​​the loom 10. Thus, additional healds or heald units 20 can be easily added.

[0057]

[0071] With general reference to the above figures, in operation, when the fabric 100 is to be woven, the master control 70 determines the angular position of the support arm 130 based on the desired diameter of the variable diameter weaving ring 45. If the diameter of the weaving ring 45 is to be reduced, the take-up winder 252 takes up the surplus web material 190 until a target position value is sensed by the joint encoder 230 on the support arm 130. Conversely, if the diameter of the weaving ring 45 is to be increased, the chain drive 195 moves the support arm 130 to the desired position while the take-up winder 252 unwinds the surplus web material 190. The adjustment of the weaving ring diameter is made dynamically based on the desired power output set by the control system 70 during weaving. The weft shuttle 15 is powered by a main motor (not separately shown) on the loom 10 and moves along a guide track (also not shown). Each weft shuttle 15 deposits a weft yarn 85 from a weft bobbin 280 on the shuttle 15 adjacent to the variable diameter weaving ring 45. The heald units 20 transition before and after the passage of the weft shuttle 15. The weft shuttle 15 is enclosed within a warp shed 231, as best seen in FIG. 11. The transitioning warp yarns 80 capture the deposited weft yarns 85 to create the weave, or structure, of the fabric product 100 shown in FIG. 3.

[0058]

[0072] To create the woven fabric product 100, the weave of the heald units 20, the diameter of the weaving rings 45, and the position of the shuttle weft insertion arm 50 must all change in a synchronized manner. To achieve this, a counter-based approach may be employed. In this example, the heald units 20, the weaving rings 45, and the weft shuttle 15 all have separate control boards, which, together with the loom control 70, constitute a distributed control system. The loom control 70 sends separate weaving commands to the heald unit control board 522, the weaving ring control board 253, and the shuttle control board 325, which are then performed locally in response to a synchronization control signal 71. This allows each device to maintain a synchronization count reflecting the number of times the synchronization control signal 71 has been received, thus ensuring that all devices perform their desired actions in a coordinated manner. The weaving commands can be configured such that the desired action is only performed at a specified count value. The weaving instructions may be prepared in advance according to the desired characteristics of the woven fabric product 100 or may be set directly by the operator during weaving.

[0059]

[0073] Product 100 may be attached to other sections of fabric to form garment 700, as best seen in Figure 17. Garment 700 may have first and second leg portions 710, 720 sewn together with a seam 740 to form an entire garment 700, such as a pair of pants. Each leg portion 710, 720 of garment 700 is preferably formed without a seam.

[0060]

[0074] As noted above, circular looms heretofore employed have been designed to weave at a fixed output size producing fabric shapes with a constant diameter. Although such looms can be reconfigured to weave at different diameters, some components of the loom must be replaced and the loom must be rethreaded to effect such diameter changes. This limitation precludes such looms from continuously weaving fabrics with varying diameters. Based on the above, it should be self-evident that the subject looms having variable diameter weaving rings and independently operating heddles have the capability of continuously weaving fabrics that vary in diameter along the length of the fabric as it is produced.

[0061]

[0075] There are also various other modifications that may be made to the final product. For example, output fabric density, which determines both the final size and quality of the woven fabric product, may also be modified in the preferred embodiment described above. Fabric density is defined in the textile industry as ends per inch ("EPI"), which is the count of warp threads per inch of fabric. To maintain fabric appearance and quality, the EPI of the output fabric must remain quasi-constant across all weaving diameters, which is achieved through thread manipulation methods such as thread packing or thread dropping. The above methodologies involve individual control of the warp lines, and therefore independently actuated healds such as those described above must be used. In thread packing, multiple adjacent lines move in line and effectively behave as a single line while they are being included in the weave. In thread dropping, lines are selectively removed from the weave and are subsequently trimmed from the output fabric. Varying the weave between common twill configurations such as 2x1, 3x1, and 4x2 can also be used to reduce the number of weft crossings to suit the intended weave diameter, thus reducing the effective weave perimeter of the fabric.

[0062]

[0076] By construction and operation as detailed above, the circular loom of the invention is capable of directly weaving garment components such as a single pant leg, a shirt sleeve, a dress, etc. Advantageously, a complete garment can be directly woven on demand. [Explanation of symbols]

[0063] 10. Loom 15 Shuttle 20 Held Unit 25 Upright Heald Unit 30 Inverted Heald Unit 35 Space 45 Variable diameter weaving ring 50 Variable position weft insertion arm 70 Control System 71, 72, 73 Synchronous control signal 80 warp lines, warp yarns 85 Weft line, weft yarn 90 Weft insertion point 100 Fabric products 105 Fell Line 115 Support Guide 125 Flexible Strip 130 Support Arm 155 Overlap point or overlapping place 190 Surplus Belt Material 195 Chain Drive 196 Output shaft 200 Chain 210 Sprocket 230 Joint Encoder 231 Warp shed 235 Maximum unsupported belt length 240 Joiner Guide 250 Inner Finger 251 Outer Finger 252 Electric Winder 253 Weaving loop control panel 255 Motor 260 Gear reduction unit 265 Pulley 270 Coupler 271 Wheels 275 Pulley Encoder 280 Weft bobbin 285 Linear Actuator 289 Linear guide or rail system 290 Position Sensor 291 Weft bobbin 300 Insertion Finger 320 Battery 325 Shuttle Control Panel 326 Wireless Communication Board 350 Weft Break Sensor 360 Stepper Motor 370 Integrated Encoder 380 1:1 belt drive system 390 Lead Screw Drive Assembly 395 Carriage 400 Lead Screw 410 Magnetic Sensor 412 Stationary Magnet 460 Magnetic Hall Sensor 475 Fixed Ceramic Elements 480 Spring-loaded ceramic eyelets 481 Spring 500 Herd 510 Sensors 511 Shuttle Pusher Arm 512 Magnet 520 Pusher Block 521 Jacquard Hook 522 Held control panel 550 Brushless DC Motor 560 Timing belt loop 570 Geared Encoder 610 Heldbank 620 Mechanical Transmission Device 630 Held Eyelet 640 Spring 650 Jacquard Cord 700 Clothes 710, 720 Legs 740 stitches

Claims

1. 1. A circular loom for continuously weaving fabrics of varying diameter, said circular loom comprising: a variable diameter weaving ring; a set of independently actuated healds, each configured to control a shed of a warp line; at least one shuttle including a weft insertion arm, said weft insertion arm adapted to accommodate said diameter change of said weaving ring; a control system for controlling the operation of the weft insertion arm, the operation of the set of independently operating healds, the operation of the weaving ring, and the operation of the at least one shuttle in response to the diameter change of the weaving ring; The control system electronically synchronizes the action of the healds, the action of the weaving rings, and the action of the at least one shuttle.

2. 2. A circular loom according to claim 1, The circular loom further comprises a rail for supporting the weft insertion arm, and an actuator for linearly adjusting the weft insertion arm along the rail.

3. 2. A circular loom according to claim 1, The circular loom further comprises an array of magnetic sensors employed in synchronizing the action of the healds, the action of the weaving rings, and the action of the at least one shuttle.

4. 2. The circular loom according to claim 1, The control system is configured to establish the action of the healds, the action of the weaving rings, and the action of the at least one shuttle based on weaving instructions created in accordance with desired characteristics of a woven fabric product.

5. 2. The circular loom according to claim 1, The control system includes at least two of a master loom control board, a heald control board, a shuttle control board, and a weaving ring control board.

6. 2. A circular loom according to claim 1, The circular loom further comprises two support arms mounted for synchronized movement, each support arm including a pivotally mounted guide configured to slidably support the variable diameter weaving ring.

7. 7. The circular loom according to claim 6, Each guide includes a plurality of fingers or rollers configured to support the variable diameter weaving ring.

8. 7. The circular loom according to claim 6, A circular loom, wherein the variable diameter weaving ring is made of a flexible strip.

9. 9. A circular loom according to claim 8, The circular loom further comprises a winding mechanism, a portion of the flexible band being circularly positioned to form the variable diameter weaving ring, and a portion of the flexible band being stored on the winding mechanism, whereby the diameter of the weaving ring is increased by moving the support arm and moving a portion of the flexible band from the winding mechanism.

10. 2. The circular loom according to claim 1, The at least one shuttle includes a sensor for detecting a weft break.

11. 2. The circular loom according to claim 1, The circular loom, wherein the control system is configured to dynamically adjust the diameter of the variable diameter weaving ring based on a desired output.

12. 12. The circular loom according to claim 11, The control system is configured to communicate with at least one shuttle to control a weft insertion point based on the diameter of the weaving ring.

13. 13. The circular loom according to claim 12, The control system is configured to communicate with the set of independently operating healds to control the shedding motion of the warp lines to achieve a desired weave.

14. 1. A method for continuously weaving fabric of varying diameters using a circular loom including a weaving ring, a set of heddles, and at least one shuttle, comprising: Varying the diameter of the weaving ring; independently operating the sets of healds to control a warp line shed; adjusting the position of the weft insertion arm for said at least one shuttle to accommodate the change in diameter of said weaving loop; controlling the action of the weft insertion arm, the action of the heddle set, the action of the weaving ring, and the action of the at least one shuttle in response to the change in diameter of the weaving ring; The method, wherein the control system electronically synchronizes the action of the healds, the action of the weaving rings, and the action of the at least one shuttle.

15. 15. The method of claim 14, The circular loom includes a rail for supporting the weft insertion arm, the method further comprising controlling an actuator to adjust the weft insertion arm along the rail.

16. 16. The method of claim 15, The method further comprises adjusting the position of the weft insertion arm using an actuator that moves the weft insertion arm linearly along the rail.

17. 15. The method of claim 14, The method further comprises the step of electronically synchronizing the action of the heddles, the action of the weaving rings, and the action of the at least one shuttle based on instructions generated according to desired characteristics of the woven fabric product.

18. 15. The method of claim 14, The method, wherein the loom includes two support arms, and wherein varying the diameter of the weaving hoop includes synchronously moving the support arms.

19. 20. The method of claim 18, the loom includes a take-up mechanism, the weaving rings are made from flexible strips, a portion of the strips being mounted on the take-up mechanism, and the step of changing the diameter of the weaving rings further includes the step of increasing the diameter of the weaving rings by moving the support arms away from the center of the weaving rings and moving a portion of the flexible strips off the take-up mechanism.

20. 15. The method of claim 14, The method further comprising the step of actuating each heald using an individual actuator located on each said heald.

21. 15. The method of claim 14, The at least one shuttle is provided with a sensor, the method further comprising detecting a weft break using the sensor.

22. 15. The method of claim 14, The method further comprises dynamically adjusting the diameter of the weaving ring based on a desired output, and controlling a weft insertion point based on the diameter of the weaving ring.

23. 23. The method of claim 22, The method further comprises communicating with the set of independently operating heddles to control the shedding motion of the warp lines to achieve a desired weave.

Images