Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) extract and its cosmetic use

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. In particular, the present invention relates to a specific oily extract of tea tree, a cosmetic composition containing it, and its use as a cosmetic regenerating, repairing or anti-fatigue agent for healthy skin.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetics field, in particular to cosmetic agents for combating the effects of fatigue on the skin. [Background technology]

[0002] The skin is the first barrier that protects the body from external aggressions. This organ is composed of several layers of tissue. A distinction is made between the epidermis, which is the outermost part of the skin, the dermis, which is a connective tissue made of fibroblasts and extracellular matrix and which performs the binding and trophic functions of the skin, and the subcutaneous tissue, which is made of fat cells.

[0003] The epidermis consists of several cell layers of keratinocytes: the epidermal germ layer, called the basal layer and containing, among other things, the stem cells of the skin, the spiny layer (Stratum spinosum), consisting of several layers of polygonal cells, the granular layer (Stratum granulosum), which comprises one to three layers of squamous cells and contains keratohyalin granules, which are cytoplasmic inclusions, and finally the horny layer (Stratum corneum), which corresponds to the final differentiation stage of keratinocytes and is composed, among other things, of keratin-rich anuclear cells called corneocytes.

[0004] The outermost cells of the stratum corneum are continually shed and replaced by cells of the layers below, a process called desquamation. Cell renewal of the stratum corneum is based on a process of cell maturation, in which cells of the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and gradually migrate through the various layers of the epidermis until they reach the stratum corneum in the form of corneocytes.

[0005] The skin is generally the first to show signs of fatigue. Fatigue can be caused by many factors, such as lack of sleep, poor or unbalanced nutritional health, overwork, strenuous or inappropriate activity at work, or disruption in the family sphere. Women who juggle family life and work, as well as young professionals in urban environments, are particularly at risk of chronic fatigue.

[0006] Those who are subject to such fatigue may exhibit haggard features, a lack of glow in the complexion, or even a pale complexion, or dark circles or bags under the eyes. In other words, their face may appear tired, noticeable, or even unhealthy. However, presenting a healthy human image may be of great concern to active members of the workforce, especially those in competitive and / or customer-facing environments. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] Nevertheless, currently there remains a need for new cosmetic active agents to prevent or treat the visible effects of fatigue on the skin. [Means for solving the problem]

[0008] One subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of an oily extract of tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) as a regenerating, restorative or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for healthy skin, said extract comprising: - more than 20% of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids, and - Less than 6% Terpinen-4-ol Including, The percentages are expressed relative to the total content of volatile compounds present in the extract as determined by gas chromatography coupled with a flame ionization detector (GC / FID).

[0009] Preferably, the percentage corresponds to the percentage area of ​​the peak corresponding to the chemical compound of interest relative to the total area of ​​the peaks in a chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis on a non-polar column.

[0010] Preferably, the extract of tea tree contains less than 15%, preferably less than 10%, and better still less than 2.0% terpineol. In particular, the extract of tea tree according to the invention contains: less than 5.0%, preferably less than 2.0% and better still less than 1.0% of terpinen-4-ol, and / or less than 5.0%, preferably less than 2.0%, and even better less than 1.5% alpha-terpineol may include.

[0011] In one particular embodiment, the extract of tea tree contains more than 30%, preferably more than 40%, of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids. In particular, the extract of tea tree contains - 5% to 15% aromadens, - 10% to 25% Leden, - 10% to 25% delta-cadinene, - 1% to 5% globulol, and - 1% to 5% viridifloral may include.

[0012] In one particular embodiment, the extract of tea tree is obtained by fractional distillation of the essential oil of the leaves and / or terminal branches of tea tree.

[0013] In certain embodiments, the tea tree extract is used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness in complexion, haggard features, dark circles around the eyes, bags under the eyes, puffy eyelids, changes in the smooth appearance of the skin, increased roughness of the skin, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, loss of moisture, appearance of wrinkles, appearance of redness, and combinations thereof.

[0014] In another embodiment, the extract of tea tree is used as a cosmetic agent to promote or improve skin recovery during sleep and / or to enhance the skin's natural mechanisms of repair and regeneration controlled by melatonin.

[0015] The extract of tea tree according to the present invention may further be used to increase total sleep time and / or deep sleep time.

[0016] Typically, the extract of tea tree is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask, serum or lotion.

[0017] Another subject of the invention is an extract of tea tree as defined above.

[0018] A further subject is a precursor composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, of an extract of tea tree according to the invention in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, preferably pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.

[0019] Another subject is a cosmetic ingredient comprising 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, of an extract of tea tree according to the invention in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, preferably pentylene glycol or triheptanoin, said cosmetic ingredient being preferably used as a regenerating, restorative or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for healthy skin.

[0020] Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of tea tree, a precursor composition or a cosmetic ingredient according to the invention in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0021] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain 0.0005% by mass to 0.01% by mass, preferably 0.001% by mass to 0.005% by mass of the tea tree extract.

[0022] Alternatively, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, of the cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition.

[0023] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be selected from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels or spheroid-supported dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, preferably suspensions in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, liposomal suspensions, powders, lotions, milks, creams, salves, gels, foams and ointments.

[0024] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a care product for treating or preventing skin fatigue, such as a serum, cream, mask or balm, preferably for use at night.

[0025] A subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of cutaneous fatigue in a subject, comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetically effective amount of an extract of tea tree or a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0026] Finally, a subject of the present invention is the use of an extract of tea tree or a cosmetic ingredient as described in the present application, in the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for treating, preventing or reducing the signs of cutaneous fatigue.

[0027] Each of the aspects and embodiments described in this specification can be used together unless expressly excluded or unless clearly excluded from the context of the embodiment or aspect under consideration. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0028] [Figure 1] Figure 1 shows the regulation of various genes related to skin repair and also the melatonin signaling pathway in skin explants subjected to UV stress in the presence of the extract according to the invention compared to placebo explants (subjected to UV stress in the absence of the extract according to the invention).Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Diagram 2]Figure 1 shows the effect of cutaneous application to the face of an extract according to the invention on total sleep time.Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Diagram 3] Figure 1 shows the effect of cutaneous application to the face of an extract according to the invention on deep sleep time.Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Figure 4] Figure 6 shows the results of the clinical trial from Example 6. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is shown at T12h, D7 and D28 as a relative percentage to D0 for the group treated with "active" cream (extract according to the invention) and the group treated with placebo cream (placebo). Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Diagram 5] Figure 6 shows the results of the clinical trial from Example 6. Skin moisture is shown as a relative percentage to D0 at T12h, D7 and D28 for the group treated with the "active" cream (extract according to the invention) and the group treated with the placebo cream (placebo), evaluated by stratum corneum moisture measurement. Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Figure 6] Figure 1 shows the results of the clinical trial from Example 6. It shows the antioxidant potential of the skin at D28 as a relative percentage to D0 for the group treated with the "active" cream (extract according to the invention) and the group treated with the placebo cream (placebo), measured by the FRAP (Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Parameter) test using samples from the first layer of the stratum corneum taken on the cheek using a Corneofix® adhesive patch at D0 and D28. Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Figure 7]Figure 6 shows the results of a clinical trial from Example 6. Figure 7 shows the results of an experiment aimed at evaluating the smooth appearance and biomechanical properties of the skin. Figure 8 shows the change in parameter Sa (smooth appearance of the skin) at T12h, D7 and D28 as a relative percentage to D0. Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Figure 8] Figure 6 shows the results of a clinical trial from Example 6. It shows the results of an experiment aimed at evaluating the smooth appearance and biomechanical properties of the skin. It shows the parameter R0 (firmness) as a relative percentage to D0 for the group treated with the "active" cream (extract according to the invention) and the group treated with a placebo cream. Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Figure 9] Figure 6 shows the results of a clinical trial from Example 6. It shows the results of an experiment aimed at evaluating the smooth appearance and biomechanical properties of the skin. It shows the parameter R2 (elasticity) as a relative percentage to D0 for the group treated with the "active" cream (extract according to the invention) and the group treated with a placebo cream. Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Figure 10] Figure 6 shows the results of the clinical trial from Example 6. It shows the results of an experiment aimed at evaluating the smooth appearance and biomechanical properties of the skin. It shows the results of the assessment of dark circles as a relative percentage to D0 at T12h, D7 and D28 for the group treated with the "active" cream (extract according to the invention) and the group treated with the placebo cream. Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0029] Melatonin is a hormone produced by the pineal gland (also known as the epiphysis). Its secretion is inhibited in the presence of light and stimulated in the dark. With melatonin, the pineal gland communicates to the brain the relative times of light and dark throughout the year (seasonal cycles) as well as 24 hours (circadian cycles). Melatonin is also called the "sleep hormone" and plays a central role in regulating chronobiological rhythms. This hormone is produced in various tissues. The process starts with tryptophan, which is converted to serotonin through various enzymes, and finally, serotonin is converted to melatonin by the sequential action of arylalkylamine N-acetyltransferase and hydroxyindole-O-methyltransferase. Melatonin can act on the skin by two different pathways, receptor-independent or receptor-dependent. Melatonin can exert a cellular antioxidant role, especially by directly scavenging free radicals, but also indirectly by increasing the activity of antioxidant enzymes. This molecule has the ability to cross cell membranes and also acts to maintain and protect mitochondrial activity.

[0030] Melatonin also has beneficial effects by activating melatonin receptors. Melatonin receptors are G protein-coupled receptors that exist in two subtypes in humans, namely MT1 and MT2. These two receptors create the biological rhythm that induces sleep. Melatonin receptors are expressed not only in the brain but also in the periphery. MT1 receptors are particularly expressed in the skin. MT1 receptors are involved in mechanisms for protecting the skin from environmental stress as well as skin aging or pigmentation.

[0031] Finally, melatonin interacts with the nuclear receptor RORα, which acts as a critical transcription factor involved in numerous biological mechanisms, especially antioxidant mechanisms.

[0032] The applicant has developed a specific tea tree extract characterized by a unique composition, namely a low content of terpinen-4-ol and a high content of sesquiterpene and sesquiterpenoid type compounds. This extract is derived from the fractional distillation of traditional tea tree essential oil. Surprisingly, the applicant has demonstrated that this extract has a biological activity that allows it to act on the melatonin signaling pathway, mimicking and enhancing its activity. The applicant has in particular demonstrated that the extract according to the invention is capable of activating certain genes of the melatonin signaling pathway, such as ASMTL, RORα, SIRT3 and SLC15A1, in UV-exposed skin explants. The extract has the ability to enhance the effect of melatonin, since ASMTL is the enzyme that allows the synthesis of melatonin, and SLC15A1 is the mitochondrial melatonin transporter. Furthermore, similar to melatonin, the extract is capable of activating RORα and SIRT3, which play a major role against cell damage by limiting oxidative stress. Furthermore, the extract induces the expression of antioxidant enzymes, such as CAT and GPX1.

[0033] The extract according to the invention is also capable of inducing genes involved in collagen synthesis (COL3A1 and COL1A2) and in DNA repair (OGG1), promoting the natural mechanisms of skin repair and regeneration controlled by melatonin.

[0034] Very surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that the application to the skin of an extract according to the invention in very low concentrations makes it possible to improve the quality of sleep in subjects with mild lifestyle-related sleep disorders, in particular by increasing the total sleep time but also the deep sleep time, thus promoting the natural repair mechanisms that occur especially during this sleep stage.

[0035] Finally, the Applicant confirmed the anti-fatigue and regenerative effect of the extract of tea tree according to the invention during a clinical trial (Example 6) carried out in healthy volunteers with disturbed sleep cycles. This clinical trial showed that the daily application of a cream containing the extract according to the invention is capable of preventing and / or treating signs of skin fatigue. The extract according to the invention was particularly capable of improving the barrier function of the skin, improving the antioxidant capacity of the skin, preventing and improving the smooth appearance and biomechanical properties of the skin, and reducing dark circles in volunteers, significantly compared to a group of volunteers treated with a placebo cream. The extract according to the invention was also capable of reducing the depth of crow's feet wrinkles, highlighting the anti-wrinkle effect.

[0036] All these results therefore support the cosmetic use, via topical application, of the extract according to the invention as an anti-fatigue agent, i.e. as an agent for treating or preventing the cutaneous signs of fatigue, and more generally for promoting or improving skin restoration during sleep, in particular by enhancing the natural skin renewal and repair mechanisms controlled by melatonin.

[0037] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the Applicant is of the opinion that these properties are due to the particular composition of the extract prepared by fractional distillation of the essential oil of tea tree (M. alternifolia).

[0038] To the applicant's knowledge, the extract according to the invention and its use as a cutaneous anti-fatigue agent have never been described or suggested in the prior art.

[0039] Tea tree is a plant endemic to Australia, traditionally used by Australian aboriginals as a medicinal herb and antiseptic. The prior art is essentially concerned with tea tree essential oil, which has a different composition and use than the extract according to the present invention. Specifically, tea tree essential oil is an essential oil typically obtained by steam distillation of the leaves and / or branch tips of tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia, i.e. tea tree).

[0040] The main active ingredient of tea tree essential oil is terpinen-4-ol. For example, tea tree essential oil as defined in the ISO 4730:2017 standard contains, inter alia, 35-48% terpinen-4-ol and also 14-28% gamma-terpinene, 6-12% alpha-terpinene, and 0.2-5% alpha-terpineol.

[0041] Tea tree essential oil is traditionally used in dermatology or internal medicine for its anti-acne, antibacterial and anti-fungal properties. Thus, tea tree essential oil is used on the skin or mucous membranes to treat infections such as mycoses, skin abscesses, furuncles or other aphthae. It is also used to treat certain ENT infections or as a repellent in aromatherapy.

[0042] A subject of the present invention is therefore said extract of tea tree and its use in the cosmetic field.

[0043] a. Extract of Tea Tree According to the Invention Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to an extract of tea tree which is low in terpinen-4-ol or, more generally, terpineol and monoterpenes and rich in sesquiterpenes and / or sesquiterpenoids.

[0044] The extract of tea tree according to the invention is liposoluble, more precisely it is an oily extract, also referred to by the term oil.

[0045] Preferably, the extract of tea tree according to the invention comprises: - more than 20% of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids, and - Less than 6% Terpinen-4-ol Includes.

[0046] Unless otherwise indicated, in the present application, the percentage of a compound contained in an extract of tea tree corresponds to the percentage area of ​​the peak corresponding to the chemical compound of interest relative to the total area of ​​the peaks in a chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis on a non-polar column, for example based on dimethylpolysiloxane and preferably carried out under the conditions described in Example 1.

[0047] In certain embodiments, the extract of tea tree according to the present invention contains less than 5.0% terpinen-4-ol, such as less than 4.5%, 4.0% or 3.5%.

[0048] In certain embodiments, the extract according to the invention comprises less than 3.0%, such as less than 2.0% or 1.0%, or even 0.5% terpinen-4-ol.

[0049] Terpinen-4-ol is also called 4-terpineol, para-menth-1-en-4-ol, or 1-isopropyl-4-methyl-3-cyclohexen-1-ol.

[0050] In certain embodiments, the extract of tea tree according to the present invention contains less than 5.0%, preferably less than 2.0%, or even less than 1.5% alpha-terpineol.

[0051] In certain embodiments, the extract of tea tree according to the present invention generally contains less than 15.0%, preferably less than 10.0%, or even less than 8.0%, 6.0%, 5.0%, 4.0%, 3.0% or 2.0% terpineol.

[0052] Terpineol is an unsaturated monocyclic monoterpene alcohol. In the context of the present invention, terpineol includes terpinen-4-ol, alpha-terpineol, beta-terpineol, gamma-terpineol, terpinen-1-ol and terpinen-5-ol.

[0053] In certain embodiments, the extract of tea tree according to the invention contains less than 10%, preferably less than 5 or 2%, or even less than 1% monoterpenes.

[0054] Monoterpenes are terpenes that consist of exactly two isoprene units.

[0055] In the context of the present invention, monoterpenes include, inter alia, terpinenes, such as alpha-terpinene and gamma-terpinene (or terpinolene), alpha-phellandrene, alpha-p-dimethylstyrene, alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, limonene, sabinene, para-cymene, alpha-thujene, or myrcene.

[0056] In particular, the extract of tea tree according to the invention may contain less than 5%, preferably less than 2%, or even less than 1% or 0.5% terpinene.

[0057] In certain embodiments, the extract of tea tree according to the invention contains less than 10%, preferably less than 5% or 2%, or even less than 1% of monoterpenoids other than terpineol, such as eucalyptol, camphor or trans-piperitol.

[0058] In certain embodiments, the extract of tea tree according to the invention comprises more than 30% or 40%, or even more than 50%, 60% or 70% of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids.

[0059] Sesquiterpenes are terpenes that consist of exactly three isoprene units.

[0060] In the context of the present invention, sesquiterpenes include, inter alia, aromadendrene, ledene (or "viridiflorene"), delta-cadinene, beta-caryophyllene, alloaromadendrene, valencene, beta-selinene, bicycloelemene, alpha-cubebene, beta-guayene, alpha-copaene, alpha-gurjunene, beta-ylangene, alpha-humulene, or beta-cedrene, beta-mallene, gamma-mulolene, gamma-curcumene, gamma-cadinene, or cadina-1,4-diene.

[0061] Sesquiterpenoids are derivatives of sesquiterpenes, generally formed by synthetic or biological modification (typically by oxidation and / or rearrangement) of sesquiterpenes.

[0062] In particular, sesquiterpenoids contain additional functional groups, especially oxygen (eg, ester, alcohol, ketone, or otherwise ether oxide functionality) and / or fewer alkyl groups (eg, one less methyl) compared to sesquiterpenes.

[0063] In the context of the present invention, sesquiterpenoids include, inter alia, calamenene, alpha-calacorene, beta-calacorene, delta-cadinol, elema-1,11-dien-15-al, globulol, viridifloral, cadin-4-en-10-ol, ledol, rhodifoliol and spatulenol.

[0064] The extract according to the invention may in particular contain at least 20% (for example at least 25%) of the following sesquiterpene and sesquiterpenoid compounds: aromadendrenes, ledenes, delta-cadinenes, globulols and viridifloral.

[0065] In one particular embodiment, the extract of tea tree according to the invention comprises: - 5% to 15% aromadens, - 10% to 25% Leden, and - 10% to 25% delta-cadinene Includes.

[0066] In another particular embodiment, the extract of tea tree according to the invention comprises: - 5% to 15% aromadens, - 10% to 25% Leden, - 10% to 25% delta-cadinene, - 1.0% to 5.0% globulol, and - 1.0% to 5.0% Viridifloral Includes.

[0067] In another additional embodiment, the extract according to the invention comprises: - less than 6% (e.g. less than 5%, 4.5%, 4.0%, 3.5%, 3.0%, 2.0%, 1%, 0.5%) of terpinen-4-ol, - less than 5% (e.g. less than 2.0% or 1.5%) of alpha-terpineol; - less than 15.0% (e.g. less than 10.0%, 8.0%, 6.0%, 5.0%, 4.0%, 3.0% or 2.0%) terpineol, - less than 10% (e.g. less than 5%, 2% or 1%) monoterpenes, less than 10% (e.g. less than 5%, 2% or 1%) of monoterpenoids other than terpineol, at least 25% (e.g. more than 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, or 70%) of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids Includes.

[0068] Preferably, the extract according to the invention comprises at least 25% of compounds selected from aromadendrene, ledene and delta-cadinene.

[0069] In particular, the extract according to the invention - 5% to 15% aromadens, - 10% to 25% Leden, - 10% to 25% delta-cadinene may include.

[0070] In another additional embodiment, the extract according to the invention comprises: - less than 6% (e.g. less than 5%, 4.5%, 4.0%, 3.5%, 3.0%, 2.0%, 1%, 0.5%) of terpinen-4-ol, - less than 5% (e.g. less than 2.0% or 1.5%) of alpha-terpineol; - less than 15.0% (e.g. less than 10.0%, 8.0%, 6.0%, 5.0%, 4.0%, 3.0% or 2.0%) terpineol, - less than 10% (e.g. less than 5%, 2% or 1%) monoterpenes, less than 10% (e.g. less than 5%, 2% or 1%) of monoterpenoids other than terpineol, at least 27% (e.g. more than 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, or 70%) of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids; Includes.

[0071] Preferably, the extract according to the invention comprises at least 27% of compounds selected from aromadendrenes, ledenes, delta-cadinenes, globulols and viridifloral.

[0072] In particular, the extract according to the invention - 5% to 15% aromadens, - 10% to 25% Leden, - 10% to 25% delta-cadinene, - 1.0% to 5.0% globulol, and - 1.0% to 5.0% Viridifloral may include.

[0073] The extract according to the invention can be obtained by fractional distillation from the essential oil of tea tree (hereinafter referred to as the "first essential oil" or "starting essential oil").

[0074] The starting essential oil is typically rich in terpinen-4-ol and is generally obtained by steam or hydrodistillation of all or parts of the tea tree, preferably the leaves and / or branches.

[0075] In certain embodiments, the starting essential oil of tea tree is - 35% to 48% (for example 37% to 45%) of terpinen-4-ol, - 10% to 28% (for example 14% to 28%) of gamma-terpinene, - 5.0% to 13% (e.g. 6% to 12%) alpha-terpinene, - 0.2% to 8.0% (e.g. 0.2% to 5.0% or 1.5% to 8.0%) alpha-terpineol may include.

[0076] Preferably, it contains less than 3.0% aromadendrenes, less than 3.0% ledenes, less than 3.0% delta-cadinenes, less than 1.0% globulols, and less than 1.0% viridifloral.

[0077] The extract of tea tree according to the invention is advantageously a fraction resulting from the fractional distillation of the essential oil of tea tree. The fractional distillation is typically carried out under reduced pressure using a fractional distillation device including a boiler, a distillation column, a condenser and a collector. The essential oil is slowly heated under reduced pressure and various successive fractions are collected, each fraction corresponding to a temperature step. The fractional distillation is carried out so as to first collect at least one (preferably 2, 3, 4) distillation fractions enriched in monoterpene and monoterpenoid type compounds, in particular terpin-4-ol. Once the fraction enriched in monoterpene and monoterpenoid type compounds has been collected, the fraction corresponding to the extract according to the invention can be collected. This fraction is typically obtained under temperature and reduced pressure conditions that allow the collection of compounds with a boiling point above 200° C. at atmospheric pressure.

[0078] As fractional distillation is a well-known method, the skilled artisan knows how to determine, e.g. by carrying out routine tests and / or using nomograms, the heating temperature and pressure to be used to obtain from a given essential oil the fraction corresponding to the extract according to the invention.

[0079] In a preferred embodiment, the extract according to the invention is a fraction of tea tree essential oil obtained by fractional distillation.

[0080] Thus, the extract according to the invention can also be described as a "fraction of tea tree essential oil", said essential oil being preferably obtained by steam or hydrodistillation of tea tree leaves and / or branches. The extract according to the invention is therefore typically an oily extract or oil of tea tree. Compared to conventional essential oils, the extract according to the invention is depleted of monoterpenes and monoterpinoids.

[0081] In one particular embodiment, the extract of tea tree comprises: i) steam distillation of all or part of the tea tree, preferably of its leaves and / or branch tips, to obtain a first essential oil; ii) a step of fractional distillation of said first essential oil under conditions of reduced pressure and temperature making it possible to collect the fraction corresponding to said extract; The method is obtained by a method comprising the steps of:

[0082] b. Precursor compositions, cosmetic ingredients and cosmetic compositions comprising the extract according to the present invention The extract of tea tree according to the invention exhibits cosmetic effects and can therefore be used as a cosmetic agent.

[0083] In the context of the present invention, the expression "cosmetic agent" is understood to mean an agent that exerts a cosmetic effect on the skin.

[0084] In the context of the present invention, the expression "cosmetic effect" is understood to mean any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes, for example the lips, or protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals), for example preventing and / or correcting phenomena related to their aging, or else preventing or treating the effects caused by fatigue on the skin.

[0085] As described below, the extract according to the present invention can be used as a regenerating, repairing or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for skin.For this purpose, the extract of tea tree according to the present invention is generally introduced as a cosmetic agent in a cosmetic composition.In other words, the extract is typically applied to the skin of the subject to be treated by a cosmetic composition.The precursor composition or cosmetic ingredient containing the extract of tea tree according to the present invention can be prepared in advance to be incorporated into the cosmetic composition.

[0086] Thus, one subject of the present invention is a precursor composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, comprising from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, of an extract of tea tree according to the invention in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0087] Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, of the extract of tea tree according to the invention in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0088] The cosmetically acceptable carrier can be of any type, for example it can be a cosmetically acceptable solvent, in particular a lower alcohol, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, triheptanoin, aqueous solutions thereof or mixtures thereof.

[0089] Preferably, the carrier is pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.

[0090] In certain embodiments, a cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition according to the present invention consists essentially of or consists of an extract of tea tree according to the present invention in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol and tripheptanoin.

[0091] The tea tree extract according to the present invention is preferably present in a content of 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient.

[0092] Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of tea tree according to the invention, preferably as a cosmetic agent, or a precursor composition or a cosmetic ingredient according to the invention, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0093] Cosmetically acceptable excipients present in the composition include diluents, dispersants, gelling agents, emollients, vectorizing agents (e.g. polycationic polymers, phospholipids, unilamellar or multilamellar liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, lamellar systems, nanosomes, lipid or polymer vesicles, nanospheres, microparticles or nanoparticles of natural or non-natural polymers, hydrogels), gums, resins, solvents, in particular lower alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerol, sorbitol and propylene glycol, fillers, e.g. modified and polymerized starches, titanium dioxide or metal stearates, preservatives, essential oils, pearlizing agents, dyes, odor absorbers. absorbers, pH regulators or neutralisers, lubricants, thickeners, hydrotropes, surfactants including, for example, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, water retention agents, wetting agents, stabilisers, fillers, dispersants, fragrances, organic or mineral pigments, for example iron oxides, oily agents, for example oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin, synthetic oils, for example petrolatum, silicone oils (cyclomethicone), fatty alcohol esters, fluorinated oils, waxes, modified clays, bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, silica, polyethylene, mica, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, carriers, for example mineral water, spring water or floral water, and / or other substances commonly used in formulations in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical technical fields.

[0094] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises 0.0005% to 0.01%, preferably 0.001% to 0.005% by weight of the extract of tea tree according to the present invention.

[0095] More particularly, the cosmetic composition comprises - 0.0005% to 0.01% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.005% by weight, of said extract of tea tree, and - 99.99% to 99.9995% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients may include.

[0096] In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 1% to 3% by weight, of the precursor composition or the cosmetic ingredient.

[0097] More particularly, the cosmetic composition comprises - 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 1% to 3% by weight, of said precursor composition or said cosmetic ingredient, and - 95% to 99.5% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients may include.

[0098] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more additional active agents with cosmetic effects. The expressions "active ingredient with cosmetic effects" or "active agent with cosmetic effects" or "cosmetic or active agent with cosmetic effects" are understood to mean compounds capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its appendages. The expression "cosmetic effects" is understood to mean any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the visual appearance and mechanical properties of the skin or mucous membranes, for example the lips, or protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals), preventing and / or correcting phenomena related to their aging, or otherwise preventing or treating the effects caused by stress or fatigue on the skin.

[0099] Examples of such agents are inter alia anti-wrinkle agents, anti-aging agents, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, anti-redness agents, decongestant agents, scrubbing or exfoliating agents, mattifying agents, sebum regulating agents, photoactive agents, anti-blemish active agents, agents to combat dark circles and sagging skin, anti-stress agents, anti-fatigue agents, anti-pollution active agents, tautening agents, sunscreens and sun creams, and combinations thereof.

[0100] In particular, the cosmetic composition may contain tocopherol and / or plant extracts, such as flaxseed extract, Vibrio exopolysaccharide extract, peptides, such as trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2.

[0101] In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition may comprise an active agent selected from anti-wrinkle agents, anti-redness agents, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, sebum regulating agents, anti-blemish or photoactive agents, firming agents, anti-stain active agents, dark circles or puffiness correcting agents, sunscreens or sun creams, and combinations thereof.

[0102] As examples of antifouling agents, mention may be made of extracts of Chrysanthellum indicum, polysaccharides, in particular marine polysaccharides from Alteromonas fermentation media, and bittern salt.

[0103] As examples of dark circle correctors, mention may be made of extracts of Chrysanthellum indicum or else of seaweeds, in particular extracts of Ascophyllum nodosum or Asparagopsis armata, and sulfated polysaccharides.

[0104] Examples of moisturizing agents include urea, pidolic acid (PCA) and its derivatives, in particular its salts, such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, copper salts (copper PCA), magnesium salts (magnesium PCA), sodium salts (sodium PCA) or zinc salts thereof, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts, and other glycosaminoglycans, fructose, glucose, isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, saccharose (sucrose), maltitol, malic acid, maltose ... Mention may be made of ethanol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, histidine, silk hydrolysates, keratin hydrolysates or soy hydrolysates, plant extracts rich in polysaccharides and / or polyphenols, such as extracts of aloe, knapweed (Centaurea cyanus), extracts rich in polysaccharides, in particular those resulting from the fermentation medium of marine microorganisms, such as Alteromonas, and combinations thereof.

[0105] As examples of anti-ageing agents, mention may be made of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosaminoglycans and its derivatives, Cyathea polysaccharides, collagen, extracts of linseed (Linum usitatissimum), peptides, such as caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, extracts of Polygonum aviculare, extracts of brown algae, in particular extracts of Ascophyllum nodosum, and extracts of ferns, in particular extracts of Cyathea cumingii.

[0106] As examples of anti-stress agents, mention may be made of Rosality™ products (a combination of rose water and rose essential oil) and extracts of cistus with pink flowers, such as those sold under the brand IBR-Chill™.

[0107] Examples of soothing agents include allantoin, extracts of aloe, birch (e.g. Betula alba), fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium), chestnut (e.g. Castenea sativa), cornflower (e.g. Centella cyanus), Centella asiatica, horsetail (e.g. Equisetum arvense), fennel (e.g. Foeniculum vulgare), witch hazel (e.g. Hamamelis virginiana), ivy (e.g. Hedera helix), Habiscus sabdariffa, lilies (e.g. Madonna lily), and the like. candidum), mallow (e.g. Malva sylvestris), lemon balm (e.g. Melissa officinalis), skullcap (e.g. Scutellaria baicalensis), mimosa (e.g. Mimosa tenuiflora), cinquefoil (e.g. Potentilla erecta), extracts of oligosaccharides or oligosaccharides, peptides such as palmitoyl tripeptide-8, extracts of polysaccharides, in particular exopolysaccharides resulting from Alteromonas fermentation medium, and combinations thereof, may be mentioned.

[0108] As examples of antioxidants, mention may be made of HMR (hydroxymethylresorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride or extracts of Epilobium angustifolium. Active ingredients having antioxidant effect and being of vitamin type are generally used in a weight percentage of at least 1% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0109] As examples of sebum regulating agents, mention may be made of flaxseed lignans, rice flour, zinc gluconate, sarcosine, Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark, avocado extract, lemon myrtle extract and combinations thereof.

[0110] As anti-redness agents, mention may be made of saponins, flavonoids, ruscogenins, esculosides, and extracts containing these, such as extracts of Ruscus, and also certain essential oils, such as lavender or rosemary.

[0111] As examples of anti-stain agents, mention may be made of extracts such as licorice (Glycyrrhyza glabra), extracts of jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus), extracts of dock (R. occidentalis), extracts of plants belonging to the genus Citrus, resveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and combinations thereof.

[0112] In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0% to 30% by weight, such as from 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents.

[0113] In another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises: - 0.0005% to 0.01% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.005% by weight, of the extract of tea tree according to the invention, - 69.99% to 99.9995% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, and - 0% to 30% by weight, for example 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents Includes.

[0114] In another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises: - 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 1% to 3% by weight, of said precursor composition or of said cosmetic ingredient as described above, - 65% to 99.5% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, and - 0% to 30% by weight, for example 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents Includes.

[0115] The tea tree extract, precursor composition or cosmetic ingredient according to the invention can be incorporated into any kind of cosmetic composition. Preferably, it is a cosmetic composition having a form suitable for topical administration, in particular for application to the skin. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in any form. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of an aqueous solution, an aqueous-alcoholic solution, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or a multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsion, a nanoemulsion, in particular an O / W nanoemulsion, the droplet size of which is typically less than 100 nm, an aqueous gel, or a spherule-supported dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, preferably a suspension in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, a liposomal suspension, a powder, a lotion, a milk, a cream, a salve, a gel, a foam, a balm and an ointment.

[0116] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a cream, balm, mask, serum, or lotion.

[0117] In one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a serum, cream, mask or balm, preferably for night use.

[0118] c. Cosmetic uses and methods according to the present invention According to an additional aspect, another subject of the invention is the use of an extract of tea tree as defined above as a regenerative, restorative or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for the skin, and more particularly for treating or preventing one or more symptoms of cutaneous fatigue.

[0119] Another subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for treating or preventing one or more signs of skin fatigue.

[0120] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "skin" and "cutaneous" refer to the skin of any part of the human body, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and eyelids, the skin of the neck, and the skin of the hands. Preferably, this is the skin of the face, including the areas around the eyes and lips, and the skin of the neck.

[0121] In the context of the present invention, the extract or composition according to the present invention is typically applied topically, preferably to the skin or mucous membrane. This is healthy skin or healthy mucous membrane, i.e. skin or mucous membrane that does not have any wounds or skin pathologies. In particular, the extract or composition according to the present invention is applied to acne-free skin (i.e. skin that does not suffer from acne), not having any wounds, especially due to insect bites, or any skin infections caused, for example, by fungi (mycoses), bacteria or protozoa.

[0122] In other words, the extract or composition according to the invention does not provide a therapeutic effect on the skin when used according to the invention.

[0123] The expression "anti-fatigue agents" is understood to mean cosmetic agents capable of preventing, treating or reducing the "cutaneous effects or symptoms" of fatigue, i.e. the effects of fatigue on the skin.

[0124] In the context of the present invention, "cutaneous effects or symptoms" is understood to mean any non-pathological change or modification of the visual appearance or mechanical properties of the skin. In the context of the present invention, "cutaneous effects or symptoms" are caused by or associated with fatigue.

[0125] The expression "preventing a symptom or effect" is understood to mean the fact of slowing down or preventing the appearance of said symptom or effect on the skin. The expression "treating a symptom or effect" is understood to mean the fact of reducing, decreasing, reducing, correcting or slowing down the onset of said symptom or effect on the skin.

[0126] Signs of skin fatigue can be, for example, loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness of complexion, haggard features, dark circles around the eyes, bags under the eyes, puffy eyelids, changes in the smooth appearance of the skin, increased roughness of the skin, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, loss of moisture, the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, the appearance of redness, and combinations thereof.

[0127] In the context of the present invention, the fatigue that causes non-pathological alteration or change of skin can be of any kind.It can be temporary or chronic fatigue.It can especially be fatigue caused by one or more factors, especially environmental factors.These can be factors such as lack of sleep due to work rhythm or family situation (e.g. birth of a child), sleep disorder or jet lag, poor or unbalanced nutritional health, alcohol consumption, lack of physical activity or excessive physical activity, sedentary lifestyle, overwork, strenuous or inappropriate activity at work, night shift or staggered work hours, significant screen exposure, stress, anxiety or worry related to professional or family life, etc.

[0128] Fatigue can also result from physiological conditions such as pregnancy or menopause.

[0129] Preferably, the fatigue is not associated with or caused by a pathological condition in the subject. In certain embodiments, the extract of tea tree according to the present invention may be used for at least one of the following purposes (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10): - preventing, treating or reducing dark circles and / or bags under the eyes; - preventing, treating or reducing eyelid swelling; - preventing, treating or reducing irregular pigmentation of the skin, including fatigue-induced pigmented spots; - To even out or unify the complexion, - making the complexion brighter and / or more radiant and / or clearer; - Preventing or treating a dull, pale and / or haggard complexion; - Makes the skin more vibrant and brighter, especially on the face; - Softening the features of the face, - making the skin look less tired, more relaxed and more vibrant; - Making your gaze less tired, more relaxed and brighter; - promoting or accelerating the healing of the epidermis, especially on the face; - revitalizing the skin, especially the face, - Promoting the effect of a radiant complexion; - preventing, treating or restoring alterations in the skin's barrier function; - preventing, treating or reducing loss of firmness of the skin, especially of the face; - preventing, treating or reducing dehydration of the skin (or equivalently "water loss"); - preventing, treating, slowing or reducing the appearance of wrinkles or fine lines; and / or - Preventing, treating or reducing the appearance of redness.

[0130] Needless to say, the above listed non-pathological changes are associated with or caused by fatigue of the skin.

[0131] In certain embodiments, the extract according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic agent to prevent, treat or reduce one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from skin dehydration, loss of elasticity, loss of firmness, wrinkles, and combinations thereof.

[0132] In the context of the present invention, the expression "regenerating or repairing agent" is understood to mean a cosmetic agent capable of promoting or stimulating skin renewal or skin repair during sleep so as to reduce, treat or prevent dermatological effects caused by fatigue. This may in particular be chronic fatigue or fatigue caused by one or more factors, in particular environmental factors. In this respect, the Applicant has observed in particular that the extract according to the invention stimulates genes involved in the synthesis of collagen in the skin.

[0133] As illustrated in the examples, application of the extract to the skin, especially in very low concentrations that cannot be detected by the sense of smell, makes it possible to improve sleep.

[0134] It has been shown that the extract according to the invention is capable of activating the melatonin signaling pathway, which is involved in particular in mechanisms of DNA repair and cellular defense against oxidative stress, but also in the synthesis and transport of melatonin induced by exposure to environmental stresses, such as excessive exposure to UV light.

[0135] Thus, in one particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention is used as an agent for activating the melatonin signaling pathway and enhancing the effect of melatonin on the skin.

[0136] According to a particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention is used to promote or restore skin renewal, in particular during sleep, and in particular to enhance the natural mechanisms for repairing and regenerating the skin, which are controlled by melatonin.

[0137] In a further or alternative embodiment, the extract according to the invention is used to improve sleep, in particular to increase total sleep time and / or deep sleep time.

[0138] According to a further embodiment, the extract according to the invention is used to promote or aid skin renewal, especially during the sleep phase.

[0139] According to a further embodiment, the extract according to the invention is used to repair / regenerate the skin of a subject subjected to fatigue, in particular chronic fatigue.

[0140] The extract according to the invention may be used to repair / regenerate skin subjected to stress, in particular environmental stress such as exposure to sunlight, wind, humidity, dryness, or methods of the kind such as chemicals or friction, light, etc., or else stress related to lifestyle (jet lag, lack of sleep, night shifts, etc.).

[0141] Additionally or alternatively, the extract according to the invention is used to induce collagen synthesis in the skin.

[0142] Additionally or alternatively, the extract according to the invention can also be used as an agent for reducing the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and / or for stimulating the expression of antioxidant proteins, in particular antioxidant enzymes, in the skin.

[0143] In a particular embodiment, the extract of tea tree according to the invention is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask, serum or lotion, as described above. The concentration of the extract of tea tree according to the invention in such a cosmetic composition is advantageously low and cannot be detected by olfaction. Typically, this concentration is between 0.0005% and 0.01% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 0.005% by weight of said extract.

[0144] Needless to say, such use is intended for individuals subject to fatigue as defined above.

[0145] The individual targeted by the present invention can be of any age and sex. In a preferred embodiment, it is a subject under 65 years old. It can be, for example, a woman or man between 25 and 65 years old, particularly between 25 and 55 years old. For example, it can be a woman between 25 and 45 years old.

[0146] A further subject is a cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a subject, comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetically effective amount of an extract of tea tree according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0147] The aim of the cosmetic method according to the invention is to treat or prevent one or more cutaneous effects of fatigue, preferably selected from changes in skin complexion, in particular pale complexion, dull complexion, loss of radiance or loss of evenness of complexion, in particular the appearance of pigmentation spots, haggard features, the appearance of bags and / or dark circles around the eyes, puffy eyelids, changes in the smooth appearance of the skin, increased roughness of the skin, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, loss of moisture, the appearance of wrinkles, the appearance of redness, and combinations thereof.

[0148] The method according to the invention may make it possible to obtain any one of the following effects in a subject subjected to fatigue: - preventing, treating or reducing dark circles and / or bags under the eyes; - preventing, treating or reducing eyelid swelling; - preventing, treating or reducing irregular pigmentation of the skin, including fatigue-induced pigmented spots; - To even out or unify the complexion, - making the complexion brighter and / or more radiant and / or clearer; - Preventing or treating a dull, pale and / or haggard complexion; - Makes the skin more vibrant and brighter, especially on the face; - Softening the features of the face, - making the skin look less tired, more relaxed and more vibrant; - Making the gaze less fatigued, more relaxed and more vivid; - promoting or accelerating the healing of the epidermis, especially on the face; - revitalizing the skin, especially the face, - Promoting the effect of a radiant complexion; - preventing, treating or restoring the deterioration of the skin's barrier function; - preventing, treating or reducing loss of firmness of the skin, especially of the face; - preventing, treating or reducing dehydration of the skin (or equivalently "water loss"); - preventing, treating, slowing or reducing the appearance of wrinkles; and / or - Preventing, treating or reducing the appearance of redness.

[0149] In the cosmetic method and use according to the present invention, the administered dose and frequency of administration of the combination according to the present invention vary as a function of the desired cosmetic effect, the characteristics of the individuals, in particular their sex, age and skin type.Typically, the tea tree extract according to the present invention or the cosmetic composition containing it can be applied to the treated area once a day, preferably before going to bed, for consecutive weeks or even months, for example at least 3 months.As an example, patients may apply a dose of 1 g to 2 g of the cosmetic composition to their face in the evening.

[0150] General definition Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application pertains.

[0151] The present application is not limited by the examples of methods, uses, and compositions described herein, and all methods, uses, and compositions similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in embodiments of the present application.

[0152] The section headings and titles provided herein should not be considered limitations of the various aspects or embodiments of the application. The section headings and titles provided herein are for organizational purposes only and should not be construed as limiting the invention described. All defined terms are more fully defined by reference to the entire application.

[0153] All publications, including patent documents and scientific papers, referred to in this application are incorporated by reference in their entirety to the same extent as if each individual publication was individually incorporated by reference. Citation of these publications should not be construed in any way as an admission that such publications constitute prior art. In the event that a definition set forth in this application is contrary to or inconsistent with a definition set forth in a patent, application, application publication, or other publication incorporated herein by reference, the definition set forth in this application shall take precedence over the definition incorporated herein by reference.

[0154] All features described in this application may be combined in any combination. Each feature described in this application may be replaced by another feature having the same purpose or an equivalent or similar purpose. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, each feature disclosed is only one example of a generic series of equivalent or similar features.

[0155] Definitions of terms may be made clear throughout the specification. It is to be understood that the specification is not limited to the specific embodiments described, as the specific embodiments may of course vary. It is also to be understood that the terminology used in the specification is for the sole purpose of describing the specific embodiments, and is not intended to be limiting.

[0156] Please note that as used in this specification and the appended claims, the singular forms "a(n)," "one," and "the" include plural referents unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. For example, "a(n)" and "one" include "at least one" and "one or more."

[0157] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "comprises," and "composed of" are synonymous with the terms "including," "includes," "containing," "contains," and grammatical variations thereof. These terms are inclusive or open-ended and do not exclude the presence of additional, unrecited members, elements or method steps.

[0158] Where a range of values ​​is provided, it is understood that each intermediate value between the upper and lower limits of the range is also specifically disclosed and encompassed herein. EXAMPLES

[0159] The present invention will be better understood in the light of the following examples, which are given purely by way of illustration and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.

[0160] Example 1 Preparation of the extract according to the invention 1. Preparation of the Tea Tree Extract According to the Invention As shown herein, the extract according to the present invention can be obtained by fractional distillation of standard essential oil of tea tree. The essential oil was obtained from fresh leaves and terminal branches by steam distillation. The essential oil was then fractionated by distillation. A first fraction was obtained, which was rich in gamma-terpinene, then a second fraction was obtained, which was rich in both gamma-terpinene and terpinen-4-ol, followed by a third fraction and a fourth fraction, both rich in terpinen-4-ol. Finally, the extract according to the present invention was obtained, which corresponds to the fifth fraction.

[0161] Table 1 details the physical and chemical characteristics of the steam distilled tea tree essential oil before fractionation. Table 2 details the composition of the starting material (first essential oil) and the composition of the fraction of interest (essential oil according to the invention).

[0162] GC / FID analysis was performed on an Agilent 6890 instrument (Agilent Technologies) equipped with a flame ionization detector (FID), an automatic liquid sampler, and the same HP-1MS capillary column (100% dimethylpolysiloxane, 60 m×0.15 mm ID, 0.25 μm film thickness, Agilent Technologies). The oven temperature was held at 60° C. for 10 min, then programmed from 60° C. to 300° C. at 2° C. / min, and finally held at 300° C. for 10 min (elapsed time 140 min). The injector and detector temperatures were 250° C. and 300° C., respectively, with H2 (1.0 ml / min) as carrier gas, injected in split mode (1:50), and injection volume was 0.1 ml. Flow rates of O2, H2, and FID make-up gas were 350, 35, and 20 ml / min, respectively.

[0163] [Table 1]

[0164] [Table 2]

[0165] Example 2 Evaluation of the extract according to the invention on skin explants Protocol: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the repair effect of the extract according to the invention on skin explants and to demonstrate its "melatonin-like" activity on the skin. The extract according to the invention obtained in Example 1 was diluted in pentylene glycol to a concentration of 0.5% by weight. This precursor composition (also called cosmetic ingredient) was then formulated in carbopol to a concentration of 1% by weight. This is the final composition used in this experiment.

[0166] 51 explants with a mean diameter of 11 mm (+1 mm) were prepared from an abdominoplasty (reference: P2471-AB46, phototype II-III (according to Fitzpatrick skin color classification)) derived from a 46 year old Caucasian woman. The explants were kept in viability for 2 days in BEM medium (BIO-EC's explant medium) at 37 °C in a humid atmosphere containing 5% CO2. On the second day, the culture medium was replaced with HBSS solution and then incubated at 13.5 J / cm2, corresponding to 3 MED (minimal erythema dose). 2 The explants were exposed to UV light with a dose of UVA of 0.15 J / cm2, which corresponds to 1 MED ("UV-placebo" group and "UV-extract" group), or with 0.15 J / cm2 of UVB, which corresponds to 1 MED. 2 At the end of the irradiation, the dermal surface of the corresponding explants was either irradiated with a dose of 0.01 mg / kg or not irradiated at a dose of 0.01 mg / kg ("Placebo" group). At the end of the irradiation, a placebo product ("Placebo" group and "UV-Placebo" group) or a composition containing an extract according to the invention ("UV Extract") was applied to the corresponding explants, approximately 1 cm 2 of the explants. 2 per 2μl (≒2mg / cm 2 ) for another 24 hours. On day 3, explants were fixed in RNAlater and then RNA was extracted using the ReliaPrep™ RNA Tissue Miniprep System (Promega, Fiber). RNA quality and concentration were assessed before performing the reverse transcription step with iScript (Bio-Rad, 20 μl / reaction). Spike controls were used to calculate ΔCq. Criteria assessed for each qPCR reaction using CFX Manager 3.1 software were: - Logarithmic curve of amplification for each sequence of interest. - The melting curve is the fluorescence intensity recorded after the final cycle, where the temperature goes from 65°C to 96°C in 0.5°C increments every 5 seconds. - The curve represents the inverse derivative of the fluorescence signal as a function of temperature (°C) and makes it possible to verify single amplicons.

[0167] All samples were subjected to gene expression profile analysis. For quantification, cycle numbers were normalized to the reference gene B2M. (i) Cq(relative abundance) per sample and per gene = E(gene)(Cq(control)-Cq(treatment)). E = Efficiency of primer pair = (Efficiency % * 0.01)+1 Cq(control) = quantification threshold calculated by CFX Maestro in "regression" mode for the control condition. Cq(treatment) = quantification threshold calculated by CFX Maestro in "regression" mode for the treatment condition. Gene = target gene (ii) Normalized target gene expression = NE NE = normalized expression of sample (gene) = Cq sample (gene) / ((Cq sample (ref1) * Cq sample (ref2) 1 / n Cq = relative quantity The denominator corresponds to a normalization factor that includes two reference genes: ref1 = B2M Gene = target gene

[0168] For each gene of interest, values ​​were calculated between treatment samples in triplicate relative to matched explant control samples for each dynamic time point. A gene was considered induced if its expression showed an increase greater than or equal to 1.5 (fold change ≥ 1.5) relative to the control. Similarly, a gene was considered repressed if it showed a decrease in its expression (fold change ≤ 0.65) relative to the control. Furthermore, homogeneous gene regulation was maintained among the three biological replicates, and P values ​​< 0.05 (by T-test) are indicated by an asterisk.

[0169] Results: Compared to UV with placebo (UV-placebo) conditions, the extract caused a strong induction of OGG1, involved in DNA repair. In addition, the extract caused a strong induction of antioxidant enzymes, such as CAT and GPX1. The effect on COL3A1 and COL1A2 also tends to prove that the extract according to the invention acts on the extracellular matrix, increasing collagen synthesis. Interestingly, the extract induced an increase in the expression of genes related to melatonin (ASMTL, RORα, SIRT3 and SLC15A1), which tends to prove that the extract targets the same pathway as melatonin and is therefore able to activate melatonin's signaling pathways, especially those involved in mechanisms of defense against oxidative stress, especially oxidative stress induced by UV light. Stimulation of this signaling pathway would explain the stimulation or repression of the genes mentioned above.

[0170] All these results support the use of the extract according to the invention as an anti-fatigue, regenerating or restorative agent for the skin.

[0171] [Table 3]

[0172] Example 3 Improved sleep Protocol: Thirty-two healthy subjects (16 men, aged 22-56 years, median age 41.5 years) with self-reported mild sleep disturbances caused by lifestyle-related factors but no clinical sleep disorder diagnosis were selected.

[0173] The study consisted of two facial creams, one 'active' cream and one 'placebo' cream, used separately over a period of three weeks. - Product A - "Active" cream: unscented generic face cream containing 1% precursor composition comprising 0.25% by weight of the extract from Example 1 in pentylene glycol (A-Leen® 5, Minasolve Inc.), - "Placebo" cream: unscented generic (see Example 5, Table 5 below) face cream containing only 1% pentylene glycol (A-Leen® 5, Minasolve).

[0174] Devices: For objective sleep measurements, subjects used the SleepScore Max device (SleepScore Labs, Carlsbad, CA), a non-contact monitoring device that uses respiratory signals and motion detection to detect sleep, and was verified by polysomnography (PSG), the standard method for measuring sleep. All self-reported data were recorded using Compusense, an online data collection software.

[0175] Test Design and Procedure: - A contextual, randomized, counterbalanced trial using an unscented control cream. - Subjects applied the cream at bedtime in their natural sleeping environment. - The test lasted for three consecutive weeks from Sunday evening to Friday morning. - Subjects used a different sample each week. A control sample was used in week 2. Table 3 shows an overview of the study design. - Each night of the study, subjects completed daily questionnaires and monitored their sleep using the SleepScore Max device.

[0176] [Table 4]

[0177] Data Analysis: Objective and self-reported data on nighttime sleep were analyzed using JMP Pro (version 15) statistical software using a between-subject mixed model. An alpha level of 0.05 was used for all statistical tests. Comparisons were made between control and extract. Percentages are derived from calculations relative to the control condition.

[0178] Statistical methods: The data obtained and variables as percentages were subjected to a two-way Student's t-test for paired data. Statistically significant value was P<0.05.

[0179] result: The extract according to the invention significantly increased the total sleep time (p<0.05) and especially the deep sleep time (p<0.05) compared to the control. On average, subjects slept 6.5 hours (392 minutes) per night using the unscented control cream versus 6.7 hours (402 minutes) using the cream containing the extract according to the invention. Deep sleep time ranged from 1.2 hours (73 minutes) using the control cream to 1.3 hours (79 minutes) using the cream containing the extract according to the invention (p<0.05).

[0180] Example 5 Cosmetics incorporating the extract according to the invention A) A night cream containing 1% of a precursor composition (also called cosmetic ingredient) comprising 0.25% by weight of the extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in pentylene glycol.

[0181] [Table 5]

[0182] B) An anti-fatigue cream containing 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.25% by weight of the extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in triheptanoin.

[0183] [Table 6]

[0184] Example 6 Improves signs of skin fatigue Protocol: A clinical trial was carried out to confirm the anti-fatigue effect of the extract according to the invention. 44 volunteers were divided equally into two groups (test group: 22 in the "active" cream, and placebo group: 22 in the placebo cream).

[0185] The enrolled volunteers were people with staggered work schedules, young adults who were very socially active and used to going out and going to bed late or traveling (jet lag), or young mothers, and thus had a disturbed sleep cycle but were not being treated for their sleep disorder.

[0186] The study was carried out for 28 days, with measurements taken at D0, T12h, D7 and D28. The products were applied by the volunteers once a day in the evening before going to bed.

[0187] The two creams tested were: - "Active" cream: unscented generic face cream containing 1% cosmetic ingredients including 0.25% by weight of the extract from Example 1 in triheptanoin (see Example 5 above, Table 5), - "Placebo" cream: unscented generic (see Example 5, Table 5 below) face cream containing only 1% triheptanoin.

[0188] Device: The following parameters were measured to observe signs of fatigue: - Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) assessed by Tewameter™ 300 (Courage+Khazaka, Electronic GmbH) measurements - Skin moisture as assessed by Corneometer® - The antioxidant capacity of the skin, measured by the experimenter using Corneofix® (Courage+Khazaka, Electronic GmbH) from samples of the first layer of the stratum corneum taken from the cheek at D0 and D28. The FRAP (Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Parameter) test was then carried out. - Fine lines around the eyes measured with Primos 3D (GFMesstechnik GmbH) - Skin elasticity and firmness measured by the suction / tension method (Cutometer® MPA 580, Courage+Khazaka, Electronic GmbH). This device is suitable for negative pressure (suction), where the skin is sucked into a measuring cup in the probe, making it possible to measure the penetration depth by means of an optical measurement system. - The assessment of dark circles from the original images taken for each volunteer with a Bio Blue Light scanner and processed with specific software was measured using the individual typology angle (ITA°).

[0189] Statistical methods: At each time, statistical tests were performed to analyze the significance of the parameter changes. The obtained data and percentage variables were subjected to a two-way analysis of variance. Statistical significance was determined as p<0.05 ( * p<0.05, ** p<0.01, *** p<0.001, **** p<0.0001).

[0190] result: The results of the clinical trial are shown in FIGS.

[0191] The group treated with the "active" cream shows a significant reduction in the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of the skin that increases over time compared to the group treated with the "placebo" cream. This highlights the improvement of the barrier function (Figure 4). A significant improvement in skin moisture was also observed in the group treated with the "active" cream, with +7.5% at 12h, 7 days and 28 days, respectively. ** , +7.9% ** and +12% **** This was observed accompanied by an increase in (Figure 5).

[0192] A significant increase in the antioxidant capacity of the skin was also observed in the group treated with the "active" cream compared to the group treated with the placebo cream (+17% Fe by day 28 compared to the placebo group). 3+ From Fe 2+ , Figure 6).

[0193] A smooth appearance of the skin and an improvement in its biomechanical properties were observed in the group treated with the "active" cream compared to the "placebo" group. Thus, the "active" cream containing the extract according to the invention reduced the parameter Sa by -6.9% after 7 and 28 days. *** and -9% **** As evidenced by the reduction in crease size (Figure 7), it was possible to smooth the skin and rapidly reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

[0194] A clear reduction in the fine lines around the eyes can also be visually observed in the images taken at D0 and D28 and confirmed by measurements performed with the Primos 3D.

[0195] The "active" cream also improved the biomechanical properties of the skin by increasing its firmness and elasticity, as illustrated by a significant reduction in parameter R0 (Figure 8) and a significant increase in parameter R2 (Figure 9) compared to the placebo group.

[0196] Finally, the "active" cream induced a rapid and significant reduction in dark circles under the eyes compared to the placebo group (Figure 10).

[0197] In conclusion, this clinical trial showed that tea tree extract is a powerful anti-fatigue agent for the skin. Daily application of a cream containing 0.0025% of the extract according to the invention makes it possible to improve signs of cutaneous fatigue in people with disturbed sleep cycles.

[0198] The extract according to the invention was in particular able to improve the barrier function of the skin, improve the antioxidant capacity of the skin, prevent and improve the smooth appearance and biomechanical properties of the skin, and reduce dark circles in volunteers, significantly compared to a group of volunteers treated with a placebo cream.

[0199] The scope of the present invention is not intended to be limited to the specific embodiments described, which are provided, for example, to illustrate various aspects of the present invention. Various modifications or variations of the described compositions and methods will become apparent in light of the descriptions and teachings provided in this application. Such modifications can be made without departing from the true scope and spirit of this application, and are intended to be included within the scope of this patent application. Although the present invention may be described in connection with certain preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the invention claimed should not be unduly limited to such specific embodiments. Indeed, various modifications or variations of the embodiments of the present invention that are obvious to those skilled in the art of cosmetics or related fields are intended to be within the scope of the following claims.

[0200] Exemplary embodiments: 1. Cosmetic use of an oily extract of tea tree as a regenerating, restorative or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for healthy skin, said extract comprising: - more than 20% of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids, and - Less than 6% Terpinen-4-ol Including, Cosmetic use, the percentages being expressed relative to the total content of volatile compounds present in the extract as determined by gas chromatography coupled with a flame ionization detector (GC / FID).

[0201] 2. The cosmetic use according to embodiment 1, characterized in that the extract of tea tree contains less than 15% terpineol, preferably less than 10% and better still less than 2.0%.

[0202] 3. The tea tree extract is less than 5.0%, preferably less than 2.0% and better still less than 1.0% of terpinen-4-ol, and / or less than 5.0%, preferably less than 2.0%, and even better less than 1.5% alpha-terpineol 3. The cosmetic use according to embodiment 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises

[0203] 4. Cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 3, characterized in that the tea tree extract contains more than 30%, preferably more than 40%, of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids.

[0204] 5. The tea tree extract is - 5% to 15% aromadens, - 10% to 25% Leden, - 10% to 25% delta-cadinene, - 1% to 5% globulol, and - 1% to 5% viridifloral 5. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises

[0205] 6. Cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5, characterized in that the extract of tea tree is obtained by fractional distillation of the essential oil of the leaves and / or terminal branches of tea tree.

[0206] 7. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6, wherein the tea tree extract is used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness of complexion, haggard features, dark circles around the eyes, sagging skin under the eyes, puffy eyelids, changes in the smooth appearance of the skin, increased roughness of the skin, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, loss of moisture, appearance of wrinkles, appearance of redness, and combinations thereof.

[0207] 8. A cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6, wherein the tea tree extract is used as a cosmetic agent for promoting or improving skin recovery during sleep and / or for enhancing the natural mechanisms of skin repair and regeneration controlled by melatonin.

[0208] 9. A cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 8, wherein the extract of tea tree is further used to increase total sleep time and / or deep sleep time.

[0209] 10. A cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the tea tree extract is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask, serum or lotion.

[0210] 11. - more than 20% of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids, and - Less than 6% Terpinen-4-ol Including, Oily extract of tea tree, the percentages being expressed relative to the total content of volatile compounds present in the extract as determined by gas chromatography coupled with a flame ionization detector (GC / FID).

[0211] 12. An oily extract of tea tree according to embodiment 11, characterized in that it is defined in any one of claims 2 to 6.

[0212] 13. A cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition for the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of tea tree according to embodiment 11 or 12.

[0213] 14. A cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition according to embodiment 13, comprising 0.1% to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, of the extract of tea tree of embodiment 11 or 12 in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0214] 15. A cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition according to embodiment 14, comprising or consisting essentially of 0.1% to 1.0% by weight of the extract of tea tree of embodiment 11 or 12, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.

[0215] 16. A cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition according to any one of embodiments 13 to 15, wherein an extract of tea tree is present as a regenerative, repair or anti-fatigue active agent for healthy skin.

[0216] 17. A cosmetic composition comprising an extract of tea tree according to embodiment 11 or 12, or a cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition according to any one of embodiments 13 to 15, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0217] 18. The cosmetic composition according to embodiment 17, characterized in that it contains 0.0005% by mass to 0.01% by mass, preferably 0.001% by mass to 0.005% by mass, of the tea tree extract.

[0218] 19. The cosmetic composition according to embodiment 17, characterized in that it contains 0.5% to 5% by mass, preferably 1% to 3% by mass, of the cosmetic ingredient.

[0219] 20. The cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 17 to 19, which is selected from the group consisting of an aqueous solution, an aqueous-alcoholic solution, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or a multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsion, a nanoemulsion, in particular an O / W nanoemulsion, an aqueous gel, or a spherule-supported dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, preferably a suspension in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, a liposomal suspension, a powder, a lotion, a milk, a cream, a salve, a gel, a foam and an ointment.

[0220] 21. The cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 16 to 20, which is a care product intended for use in the treatment or prevention of skin fatigue, such as a serum, cream, mask or balm, preferably for use at night.

[0221] 22. A cosmetic method for preventing, reducing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a subject, comprising application to the skin of a cosmetically effective amount of a tea tree extract of embodiment 11 or 12 or a cosmetic composition described in any one of embodiments 17 to 21.

[0222] 23. Use of an extract of tea tree according to embodiment 11 or 12, or a cosmetic ingredient according to any one of embodiments 13 to 15, in the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for treating, preventing or reducing signs of skin fatigue.

Claims

1. 1. Cosmetic use of an oily extract of tea tree as a regenerating, repairing or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent in healthy skin, said extract comprising: - more than 20% of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids, and - Less than 6% Terpinen-4-ol Including, Cosmetic use, the percentages being expressed relative to the total content of volatile compounds present in the extract as determined by gas chromatography coupled with a flame ionization detector (GC / FID).

2. 2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of tea tree contains less than 15%, preferably less than 10% and better still less than 2.0% of terpineol.

3. The tea tree extract is less than 5.0%, preferably less than 2.0% and better still less than 1.0% of terpinen-4-ol, and / or - less than 5.0%, preferably less than 2.0%, and even better less than 1.5% alpha-terpineol 3. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises

4. 4. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract of tea tree contains more than 30%, preferably more than 40%, of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids.

5. The tea tree extract is - 5% to 15% aromadendrene, - 10% to 25% Leden, - 10% to 25% delta-cadinene, - 1% to 5% globulol, and - 1% to 5% viridifloral 5. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises

6. 6. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the extract of tea tree is obtained by fractional distillation of the essential oil of the leaves and / or terminal branches of tea tree.

7. 7. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the extract of tea tree is used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness of complexion, haggard features, dark circles around the eyes, bags under the eyes, puffy eyelids, changes in the smooth appearance of the skin, increased roughness of the skin, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, loss of moisture, appearance of wrinkles, appearance of redness, and combinations thereof.

8. 7. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the tea tree extract is used as a cosmetic agent for promoting or improving skin recovery during sleep and / or for enhancing the natural mechanisms of skin repair and regeneration controlled by melatonin.

9. 9. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the extract of tea tree is further used to increase total sleep time and / or deep sleep time.

10. 10. The cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the extract of tea tree is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask, serum or lotion.

11. - more than 20% of compounds selected from sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpenoids, and - Less than 6% Terpinen-4-ol Including, Oily extract of tea tree, the percentages being expressed relative to the total content of volatile compounds present in the extract as determined by gas chromatography coupled with a flame ionization detector (GC / FID).

12. 12. An oily extract of tea tree according to claim 11, characterized in that it is defined in any one of claims 2 to 6.

13. A cosmetic composition comprising an extract of tea tree according to claim 11 or 12.

14. 14. A cosmetic composition according to claim 13, comprising 0.1% to 1.0%, preferably 0.1% to 0.5%, by weight of an extract of tea tree according to claim 11 or 12 in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

15. 15. The cosmetic composition according to claim 14, comprising or consisting essentially of 0.1% to 1% by weight of an extract of tea tree according to claim 11 or 12, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.

16. 16. A cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 13 to 15, wherein an extract of tea tree is present as a regenerative, repair or anti-fatigue active agent in healthy skin.

17. A cosmetic composition comprising an extract of tea tree according to claim 11 or 12, or a cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 13 to 15, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

18. 18. Cosmetic composition according to claim 17, characterized in that it contains between 0.0005% and 0.01% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 0.005% by weight, of said extract of tea tree.

19. 18. The cosmetic composition according to claim 17, characterized in that it comprises 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 1% to 3% by weight, of said cosmetic ingredient.

20. 20. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 17 to 19, which is selected from the group consisting of an aqueous solution, an aqueous-alcoholic solution, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or a multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsion, a nanoemulsion, in particular an O / W nanoemulsion, an aqueous gel, or a spheroid-supported dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, preferably a suspension in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, a liposomal suspension, a powder, a lotion, a milk, a cream, a salve, a gel, a foam and an ointment.

21. 21. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 17 to 20, which is a care product for use in the treatment or prevention of skin fatigue, such as a serum, cream, mask or balm, preferably for use at night.

22. A cosmetic method for preventing, reducing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a subject, comprising application to the skin of a cosmetically effective amount of an extract of tea tree as described in claim 11 or 12 or a cosmetic composition as described in any one of claims 17 to 21.

23. Use of an extract of tea tree according to claim 11 or 12, or a cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 13 to 15, in the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for treating, preventing or reducing signs of skin fatigue.

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