Cosmetic use of lavandin extract as a protective or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-03-23
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-01
AI Technical Summary
There is a current need for new cosmetic active agents to prevent or treat the visual effects of fatigue on the skin, which existing cosmetics fail to adequately address.
The use of lipid-soluble extracts of labandin, obtained by maceration of labandin plant material in a terpene solvent, as a protective cosmetic for healthy skin or as an anti-fatigue cosmetic to increase skin production of melatonin and resynchronize the circadian rhythm.
The labandin extracts effectively treat or prevent signs of skin fatigue such as loss of skin glow, dull complexion, dark circles, and sagging under the eyes, while also improving sleep quality and reducing environmental stress-induced changes in the skin's circadian rhythm.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetics field, in particular to cosmetic agents for combating the effects of fatigue on the skin. [Background technology]
[0002] The skin is the first barrier that protects the body from external aggressions. This organ is composed of several layers of tissue: the epidermis, which is the outermost part of the skin, the dermis, which is a connective tissue made up of fibroblasts and extracellular matrix and performs the binding and trophic functions of the skin, and the subcutaneous tissue, which is made up of adipocytes.
[0003] The epidermis consists of several cell layers of keratinocytes: the epidermal germ layer, called the basal layer and containing, among other things, the stem cells of the skin, the spiny layer (Stratum spinosum), consisting of several layers of polygonal cells, the granular layer (Stratum granulosum), which comprises one to three layers of squamous cells and contains keratohyalin granules, which are cytoplasmic inclusions, and finally the horny layer (Stratum corneum), which corresponds to the final differentiation stage of keratinocytes and is composed, among other things, of keratin-rich anuclear cells called corneocytes.
[0004] The outermost cells of the stratum corneum are continually shed and replaced by cells from the layers below, a process known as desquamation. Cell renewal of the stratum corneum is based on a process of cell maturation, in which cells of the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and gradually migrate through the various layers of the epidermis until they reach the stratum corneum in the form of corneocytes.
[0005] The skin is generally the first to show signs of fatigue. Fatigue can be caused by many factors, such as lack of sleep, poor or unbalanced nutritional health, overwork, strenuous or inappropriate activity at work, or disruption in the family sphere. Women who juggle family life and work, as well as young professionals in urban environments, are particularly at risk of chronic fatigue.
[0006] Those who are subject to such fatigue may exhibit haggard features, loss of complexion radiance or even a pale complexion, or dark circles or bags under the eyes. In other words, their faces may appear tired, noticeable, or even unhealthy. However, presenting a healthy human image may be of great concern to active members of the workforce, especially those in competitive and / or customer-facing environments. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0007] [Patent Document 1] FR3110422 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] Nevertheless, currently there remains a need for new cosmetic active agents to prevent or treat the visible effects of fatigue on the skin. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract, preferably a fat-soluble extract of lavandin obtained by maceration of lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent, as a protective cosmetic agent for healthy skin or as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent.
[0010] Preferably, the extract according to the invention is used as an anti-fatigue agent for healthy skin.
[0011] The extract of lavandin is typically an extract of a hybrid selected from Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula x intermedia.
[0012] The fat-soluble extract of lavandin can be used as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent to increase the cutaneous production of melatonin in healthy skin.
[0013] According to certain embodiments, the fat-soluble extract of lavandin may also be used as a cosmetic agent to resynchronize or prevent non-pathological alterations of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin and / or to promote or aid the skin's protective mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
[0014] According to a further aspect, the extract of lavandin according to the invention may be used to improve sleep, particularly in tired subjects, to increase the total sleep time and / or to reduce the time awake after sleep onset.
[0015] Preferably, the fat-soluble extract of lavandin according to the invention is used in fatigued individuals whose fatigue is not associated with or caused by a pathological condition.
[0016] By way of example, fatigue in an individual may be caused by one or more factors selected from lack of sleep, jet lag, poor or unbalanced nutritional health, alcohol consumption, lack of physical activity or excess physical activity, a sedentary lifestyle, overwork, strenuous or inappropriate activity at work, night shifts or staggered work hours, screen exposure, and stress.
[0017] The extract of lavandin may be used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness of complexion, haggard appearance, dark circles around the eyes, bags under the eyes, puffy eyelids, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, and combinations thereof. In other embodiments, the extract of lavandin may be used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness of complexion, haggard appearance, dark circles around the eyes, bags under the eyes, puffy eyelids, and combinations thereof.
[0018] The extract may also be used as a cosmetic agent to promote or improve the protection of the skin against environmental stresses.
[0019] In certain embodiments, the extract is further used to improve sleep, particularly to increase total sleep time and / or reduce the time spent awake after sleep onset. In other embodiments, the extract is used as a cosmetic agent to resynchronize or prevent changes in the circadian rhythm of the skin, particularly after exposure to environmental stress. The extract can also be used to increase the production of melatonin at the skin level.
[0020] In a particular embodiment, the extract of lavandin contains at least 8.0% sesquiterpene compounds, the percentage corresponding to the percentage of the area represented by the peaks of sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of a chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the absolute. The extract of lavandin is particularly - 10.0% to 20.0% of sesquiterpene compounds selected from beta-caryophyllene, trans-beta-farnesene, gamma-cadinene and alpha-bisabolol; linalool up to 30.0%, preferably between 6.0% and 18.0%, - at least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavandulyl acetate Including, The percentage corresponds to the percentage of the area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks in the chromatogram obtained by absolute GC / FID analysis.
[0021] In one particular embodiment, the extract according to the present invention comprises: - immersing a lavandin plant material, preferably flower tops, in a terpene solvent, recovering a liquid phase after immersion, and removing the terpene solvent from the liquid phase to obtain a concrete; and - A process to remove wax from concrete to obtain an extract
[0033] The compound may be obtainable or obtained by a process comprising:
[0022] The terpene solvent used in the present method may comprise at least 85% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, of terpene compounds.
[0023] In one particular embodiment, the extract is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask, or serum.
[0024] Typically, the cosmetic composition comprises 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of the extract. The cosmetic composition may be selected from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or spheroid-supported dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, preferably suspensions in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, liposomal suspensions, powders, lotions, milks, creams, salves, gels, foams and ointments.
[0025] Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic method for preventing or treating cutaneous signs of fatigue in tired individuals, comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetically effective amount of a defined extract.
[0026] Typically, the extract of lavandin is present in a cosmetic composition as defined in the present application. In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic method is used to prevent, treat or attenuate dark circles, the extract being applied to the area around the eyes. The cosmetic method is performed on a subject exhibiting fatigue, said fatigue not caused by or associated with a pathological condition. According to an additional aspect, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of lavandin as defined in the present application in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. For example, the cosmetic composition may comprise or consist of 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of said extract of lavandin in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.
[0027] Extracts of lavandin are present in cosmetic ingredients as anti-fatigue cosmetic agents to increase cutaneous production of melatonin in healthy skin and / or to resynchronize or prevent non-pathological alterations of the circadian rhythm in healthy skin, and / or as cosmetic agents to promote or aid the skin's protective mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
[0028] According to a further aspect, a subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of lavandin as defined in the present application, or a cosmetic ingredient as defined in the present application, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
[0029] The cosmetic composition may be selected from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels or spheroid-supported dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, preferably suspensions in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, liposomal suspensions, powders, lotions, milks, creams, salves, gels, foams and ointments.
[0030] The cosmetic composition may be a care product for use in the treatment or prevention of skin fatigue, such as a serum, cream, mask or balm, preferably for use at night.
[0031] According to a further aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of an extract of lavandin or a cosmetic ingredient as defined in the present application in the manufacture of an anti-fatigue cosmetic composition for increasing the cutaneous production of melatonin in healthy skin and / or for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological alterations of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin and / or for promoting or supporting the skin's protective mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
[0032] Each of the aspects and embodiments described in this specification can be used together unless expressly excluded or unless clearly excluded from the context of the embodiment or aspect under consideration. [Brief description of the drawings]
[0033] [Figure 1] Figure 1 shows the protective effect of an extract of lavandin according to the invention on the expression of different genes involved in circadian rhythmicity with respect to UV stress in an ex vivo test carried out on skin explants.Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Diagram 2] Figure 1 shows the effect of cutaneous application to the face of an extract of lavandin according to the invention on total sleep time.Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Diagram 3] Figure 1 shows the effect of cutaneous application to the face of an extract of lavandin according to the invention on the time to wake up after sleep onset.Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. [Figure 4] Figure 1 shows the results of the assessment of dark circles at T12h, D7 and D28 as a relative percentage to D0 for the group treated with "active" cream (extract according to the invention) and the group treated with placebo cream. Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0034] Melatonin is a hormone produced by the pineal gland (also known as the epiphysis). Its secretion is inhibited in the presence of light and stimulated in darkness. With melatonin, the pineal gland communicates to the brain the relative times of light and dark throughout the year (seasonal cycles) as well as 24 hours (circadian cycles). Melatonin is also called the "sleep hormone" and plays a central role in regulating chronobiological rhythms. This hormone is produced in various tissues. The process begins with tryptophan, which is converted to serotonin through various enzymes, and finally, serotonin is converted to melatonin by the sequential action of arylalkylamine N-acetyltransferase and hydroxyindole-O-methyltransferase.
[0035] Melatonin can act on the skin by two different pathways: receptor-independent or receptor-dependent. Melatonin can play a cellular antioxidant role, especially by directly scavenging free radicals, but also indirectly by increasing the activity of antioxidant enzymes. The molecule has the ability to cross cell membranes and also acts to maintain and protect mitochondrial activity.
[0036] Melatonin also has beneficial effects on the skin through activation of melatonin receptors, which are G protein-coupled receptors that exist in two subtypes in humans: MT1 and MT2. They are expressed not only in the brain but also in the periphery, especially in the skin.
[0037] As a peripheral tissue located at the interface between the internal and external environment, the skin performs essential functions for the protection of the body's homeostasis in coordination with environmental changes. Some of these functions are subject to diurnal variations, such as temperature or water loss, which suggests the existence of specific circadian rhythms.
[0038] The applicant is interested in one particular extract of lavandin obtained by extraction with terpene solvents. This extract and the method for obtaining it are described in French patent application with application number 2005014 (publication number FR3110422). Patent application FR3110422 states that this extract can be used as a soothing agent for the skin, in particular to relieve skin discomfort.
[0039] Surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that this type of extract has other cosmetic activities very different from those described in patent application FR3110422.The Applicant has thus shown that this type of extract is capable of significantly increasing the in vitro expression of melatonin by keratinocytes.
[0040] The applicant has also shown that lavandin extracts can prevent the increased expression of clock genes such as Cry2 and Per2 induced after UV irradiation in skin explants. The same effect was observed for Neat1 and Neat1-2 genes, which play a crucial role in the regulation of these clock genes. Thus, the lavandin extracts according to the invention can resynchronize or prevent the alteration of the circadian rhythm of the skin induced by exposure to environmental stress, such as excessive exposure to UV light.
[0041] Very surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that the application to the skin of an extract of lavandin in very low concentrations makes it possible to improve the quality of sleep in subjects with mild lifestyle-induced sleep disorders, in particular by increasing the total sleep time and by reducing the time spent awake after sleep onset.
[0042] Finally, the Applicant has also demonstrated that the extract according to the invention is able to significantly reduce dark circles around the eyes in subjects with a disturbed sleep cycle.
[0043] All these results therefore support the cosmetic use, via topical application, of an extract of lavandin according to the invention as an anti-fatigue agent, i.e. for treating or preventing the cutaneous signs of fatigue, or otherwise as an agent for protecting the skin, in particular by protecting it against alterations or desynchronization of the circadian rhythm caused by environmental stress.
[0044] Lavandin extract according to the present invention The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a lavandin extract obtained by extraction with a terpene solvent. In particular, the extract according to the invention can be, inter alia, a lavandin absolute. The lavandin extract according to the invention is preferably liposoluble.
[0045] The term "lavandula" is understood to mean any plant species belonging to the genus Lavandula. Lavandula species include lavender species and also hybrids thereof, including lavandin.
[0046] Lavender species include, but are not limited to, Lavandula angustifolia Mill. (also known as true lavender), Lavandula latifolia (also known as spike lavender), and Lavandula stoechas L. (also known as French lavender).
[0047] The term "lavandin" is understood to mean lavandula hybrids, i.e. hybrids of plants belonging to the genus Lavandula, and in particular lavender hybrids. Lavandula species include, but are not limited to, Lavandula angustifolia Mill. (also known as true lavender), Lavandula latifolia (also known as spike lavender), and Lavandula stoechas L. (also known as French lavender). Preferably, the lavender hybrids correspond to hybrids resulting from a cross between lavender and spike lavender. These hybrids are known as Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia, Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula intermedia. There are several varieties of lavandin, in particular the abrialis, grosso, super, and sumian varieties.
[0048] In a preferred embodiment, the extract of lavandin used according to the invention is a lavandin absolute obtained by maceration in a terpene solvent.
[0049] The extract used according to the invention may in particular be an absolute as described in patent application FR2005014 or may be obtained by the process as described in said patent application.
[0050] Specifically, the extract according to the present invention can be obtained from one or more aerial parts of lavandin plants.It can be the extract obtained from the stem, flower and / or flower top of lavandin plants.In some embodiments, lavandin plants can be from organic farming.
[0051] In a preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained from the flower tops of lavandin, preferably from the fresh flower tops.
[0052] The extract of lavandin according to the invention is cosmetically acceptable, i.e. it is not toxic when used in standard concentrations in cosmetic products.
[0053] As noted above, the extract according to the present invention is typically an absolute.
[0054] In the context of the present invention, the term "absolute" means a) extracting the plant material with a volatile solvent to obtain a concrete containing both odor molecules and wax; and b) The process of removing the wax present in the concrete to obtain the absolute is understood to mean any fat-soluble extract of a plant which can be obtained by a process comprising
[0055] In the context of the present invention, step (a) is preferably carried out by soaking plant material from a lavandin plant in a terpene solvent.
[0056] The expression "terpene solvent or otherwise solvent rich in terpene compounds" is understood to mean a solvent having a content of terpene derivatives of at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 85%, 90%, 95%, 98%, 99% or even 100% by weight.
[0057] This is preferably a terpene solvent which can be at least partially or completely removed from the steeping medium by vacuum filtration at a temperature below 150°C.
[0058] The terpene solvent is preferably liquid at room temperature (eg, 20 to 25° C.).
[0059] The expression "terpene derivatives" is understood to mean terpenes and their derivatives, in particular terpenoid compounds. Terpenes correspond to hydrocarbons resulting from the combination of several isoprene units. They are divided into several classes of compounds based on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenes include in particular monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes and triterpenes. Terpenes may be cyclic or acyclic.
[0060] Terpenoids are derivatives of terpenes that contain additional functional groups, especially oxygen (e.g., ester, alcohol, ketone or other etheroxide functional groups) and / or less alkyl groups (e.g., one less methyl). Terpenoids include, but are not limited to, terpene alcohols (or monoterpenols), terpene ketones and aldehydes, terpene ethers, and terpene esters. Similar to terpenes, terpenoids are divided into several classes of compounds based on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenoids may be cyclic or acyclic.
[0061] In a particular embodiment, at least 60% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent is selected from the group consisting of monoterpenes, monoterpenoids, and mixtures thereof.For example, monoterpenes and monoterpenoids represent at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 85% by weight, or even 90%, 95% or 98% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent.Preferably, the monoterpenoid compounds present in the solvent are selected from monoterpenols and monoterpenol acetates.
[0062] As examples of monoterpenes, mention may be made of ocimene, myrcene, limonene, alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, camphene, terpinolene and p-cymene.
[0063] As examples of monoterpenoids, mention may be made of terpene alcohols such as linalool, eucalyptol, menthol, nerol, geraniol, citronellol, borneol, terpineol and their acetates, or else terpene ketones and aldehydes such as citral, geranial, citronellal, camphor, carvone.
[0064] A terpene solvent may consist of a mixture of terpene compounds or consist essentially of (ie, at least 95%, 96%, 98%, 99% or 100%) of a single terpene compound.
[0065] Preferably, this is a solvent comprising a mixture of terpene compounds, where the monoterpenes and monoterpenoids represent at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight or even at least 95% by weight of the total terpene compounds present in the solvent.
[0066] The terpene solvent may be a synthetic solvent, ie, a solvent in which at least one of the terpene compounds it contains has been prepared by chemical synthesis.
[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the terpene solvent is a natural solvent, i.e., a solvent prepared from plant, animal or microbial material, in other words, it is a bio-based solvent.
[0068] In a particular embodiment, the terpene solvent is prepared by a method for extracting natural materials, preferably plant materials known to contain terpene compounds, especially monoterpene compounds. This may be a raw material originating from a plant belonging to the Lamiaceae family, such as mint, sage, thyme, oregano, lavender, lavandin or rosemary, from the Pinaceae family, especially pine (genus Pinus), or else from species of the Rutaceae family, especially genus Citrus, such as lemon trees or orange trees. The starting plant material used to prepare the terpene solvent may consist of bark, fruit, flowers, leaves, peels, resins, especially oleoresins of resinous trees, rhizomes, roots, wood, seeds, needles, or else cell cultures, seedlings, and combinations thereof. As an example, this may be a terpene solvent prepared by extraction of pine oleoresin, by extraction of citrus peel or peel, or else by extraction of flowers and / or leaves of plants of the Lamiaceae family.
[0069] Terpene solvent can be prepared using any extraction method that allows to recover the volatile terpene compounds of interest, especially monoterpenes and monoterpenoids.Extraction method can include one or more fractionation steps, such as one or more steps of solid-liquid extraction using volatile organic solvents, a step of extraction using sub-critical or supercritical fluids, especially supercritical CO2, a step of mechanical extraction, especially by cold expression, one or more steps of distillation, such as steam distillation, steam distillation, fractionation or molecular distillation, and combinations thereof.Several extraction and / or purification techniques can be combined to obtain terpene solvent enriched in volatile monoterpene compounds.
[0070] In certain embodiments, the terpene solvent is a certified organic natural solvent, i.e., it is derived from organic agriculture and is prepared by extraction methods from certified raw materials.
[0071] Step (a) may be carried out as follows: Plant material, preferably the flower tops of lavandin, is coated on top with a specified terpene solvent. The plant material is left immersed at a temperature between 40°C and 60°C for at least 90 minutes, typically 60 to 120 minutes.
[0072] Use a volume of solvent sufficient to cover the plant material. The volume of solvent used is generally 1-10 liters per kg of plant material per steeping cycle and can vary depending on the starting plant material and extractor used.
[0073] After immersion, the liquid phase is recovered.
[0074] The soaking step may be repeated typically 1-5 times, for example 1, 2 or 3 times. After the first soaking step is completed, the plant material is collected and returned to soaking in fresh or recycled solvent. The liquid phase is collected after soaking and combined with the liquid phase collected at the end of the first soaking step. Use is preferably made of the same composition of terpene solvent in the various soaking steps. The soaking time may be shorter in the additional soaking steps.
[0075] The terpene solvent is removed from the liquid phase by vacuum filtration and is generally recycled for carrying out new extractions. The distillation residue constitutes the concrete, which is in the form of a paste or solid, rich in odor molecules and waxes.
[0076] Step (b) aims to remove the waxes present in the concrete in order to obtain the absolute, i.e. the desired extractables. Different strategies can be used to remove the waxes, i.e. to obtain the absolute, on the one hand, and the waxes, on the other hand.
[0077] By carrying out fractional extraction of concrete with supercritical CO2, it is possible to recover the absolute, where the constituent molecules of the absolute are captured by the supercritical fluid and selectively recovered by adjusting the temperature and pressure of the supercritical fluid.
[0078] An alternative solution consists in removing the wax by taking advantage of the difference in solubility between hot and cold in these alcohols. In this case, the concrete is dissolved in alcohol or in an aqueous alcohol solution containing at least 90% by volume of alcohol. The solution obtained is homogenized, if necessary at high temperature (for example at a temperature below 60° C.), and then cooled to precipitate the wax. The wax may be removed by filtration. The absolute is then obtained from the recovered filtrate by removing the alcohol, for example by vacuum concentration.
[0079] During step b), a portion of the odor molecules of interest are trapped in the precipitated wax and therefore lost.
[0080] To improve the yield of the absolute, an additional step can be carried out with the aim of recovering the odor molecules trapped in the precipitated wax. Typically, the precipitated wax is dissolved in alcohol or an aqueous alcohol solution, homogenized at high temperature, precipitated at low temperature and filtered. The filtrate obtained is combined with the filtrate from step b). This step can be repeated until sufficient depletion of the wax is obtained.
[0081] The alcohol used in step b) and the optional wax depletion step can be any kind of C2-C5 lower alcohol, in particular ethanol or an alcohol solution containing 90 vol.% alcohol. Preferably, bio-based ethanol (i.e. bioethanol) or an aqueous alcohol solution containing at least 90 vol.% bio-based ethanol is used in step b).
[0082] Steps a) and / or b) can be repeated if necessary, for example to increase the yield.
[0083] The process for preparing an extract (or absolute) of lavandin according to the invention may comprise one or more steps in addition to those previously described, in particular washing and / or comminuting the starting plant material, or else additional purification steps, for example by extraction using supercritical CO2, molecular distillation of fractionation, by precipitation and / or by extraction, in particular liquid-liquid or solid-liquid extraction.
[0084] In certain embodiments, the method does not include a purification step in addition to steps a) and b).
[0085] The method may also include a step of formulating the extract, for example by adding one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, in particular cosmetically acceptable carriers or supports. For example, the extract used according to the invention may be diluted in a suitable organic or vegetable solvent, such as triethyl citrate, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, triheptanoin, or vegetable oils of oleaginous plants, encapsulated in a vectorization system, such as liposomes, or otherwise adsorbed to a solid carrier.
[0086] As indicated above, in one preferred embodiment, the extract of lavandin is obtained by maceration of plant material derived from lavandin, preferably from the flower tops of lavandin.
[0087] In a particular embodiment, the extract of lavandin used according to the invention comprises at least 8% sesquiterpene compounds, preferably 10.0% to 20.0% sesquiterpene compounds selected from beta-caryophyllene, trans-beta-farnesene, gamma-cadinene and alpha-bisabolol.
[0088] The extract of lavandin used according to the invention may in particular contain 3.0% to 7.0% beta-caryophyllene, 1.0% to 4.0% bisabolol, at least 2.0% trans-beta-farnesene and at least 0.5% gamma-cadinene.
[0089] In a particular embodiment, the extract of lavandin used according to the invention contains less than 30.0%, preferably less than 25.0% of linalool, eucalyptol, camphor, and borneol. The linalool content is typically less than 20.0%, preferably between 6.0% and 18.0%, or between 8.0% and 16%.
[0090] The extract used according to the invention may further comprise at least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably between 4.0% and 7.0% lavandulyl acetate. The absolute may also comprise at least 20%, preferably between 25% and 40% linalyl acetate.
[0091] The aforementioned percentages correspond to the percentage of the area of the peak (or peaks) corresponding to the chemical compound (or chemical compounds) of interest relative to the total area of the peaks in the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis, preferably performed under the conditions described in Example 2.
[0092] In one particular embodiment, the extract according to the present invention (also referred to as the absolute according to the present invention) comprises: - 10.0% to 20.0% of sesquiterpene compounds selected from beta-caryophyllene, trans-beta-farnesene, gamma-cadinene and alpha-bisabolol; linalool up to 30.0%, preferably between 6.0% and 18.0%, - at least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavandulyl acetate Including, The percentage corresponds to the percentage of the area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks in the chromatogram obtained by absolute GC / FID analysis.
[0093] Use according to the invention The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of lavandin as described above as a protective or anti-fatigue agent for the skin, and more particularly for treating or preventing one or more symptoms of cutaneous fatigue.
[0094] The extract of lavandin according to the invention is typically incorporated into a cosmetic composition before being applied to the skin.
[0095] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "skin" and "cutaneous" refer to the skin of any part of the human body, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and eyelids, the skin of the neck, and the skin of the hands. Preferably, this is the skin of the face, including the areas around the eyes and lips, and the skin of the neck.
[0096] In the context of the present invention, the lavandin extract is typically, preferably, applied topically to skin or mucous membrane. This is healthy skin or healthy mucous membrane, i.e. skin or mucous membrane that does not have any wound or skin pathology. In particular, the lavandin extract or cosmetic composition containing it is applied to acne-free skin (i.e. skin that does not suffer from acne), not having any wound, especially caused by insect bites, or any skin infection caused by, for example, fungus (mycosis), bacteria or protozoa. In other words, the extract or composition used according to the present invention does not have a therapeutic effect on skin when used according to the present invention.
[0097] The extract according to the invention is used as an agent for exerting a cosmetic effect on the skin.
[0098] The expression "cosmetic effect" is understood to mean any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes, for example the lips, or protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals), for example preventing and / or correcting phenomena related to their aging, or otherwise preventing or treating non-pathological effects caused by fatigue on the skin.
[0099] In certain embodiments, the expression "cosmetic effect" is understood to mean any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes, for example the lips.
[0100] According to certain embodiments, "cosmetic effect" does not encompass the fact of protecting the skin and mucous membranes from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals) and / or preventing and / or correcting phenomena associated with their aging.
[0101] According to another embodiment, the extract according to the invention is not used to provide an anti-aging effect, in particular an anti-wrinkle effect, and / or a soothing or protective effect for sensitive, responsive and / or locally predisposed skin.
[0102] The expression "anti-fatigue agents" is understood to mean cosmetic agents capable of preventing, treating or attenuating the "cutaneous effects or symptoms" of fatigue, i.e. the effects of fatigue on the skin.
[0103] In the context of the present invention, the expression "cutaneous effects or symptoms" is understood to mean any non-pathological change or modification of the visual appearance or mechanical properties of the skin. In the context of the present invention, "cutaneous effects or symptoms" are caused by or associated with fatigue.
[0104] The expression "preventing a symptom or effect" is understood to mean the fact of slowing down or preventing the appearance of said symptom or effect on the skin. The expression "treating a symptom or effect" is understood to mean the fact of reducing, attenuating, relieving, correcting or slowing down the onset of said symptom or effect on the skin.
[0105] Signs of skin fatigue can be, for example, loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness of complexion, haggard features, dark circles around the eyes, bags under the eyes, puffy eyelids, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and combinations thereof.
[0106] In a preferred embodiment, signs of skin fatigue may be, for example, loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness in complexion, haggard features, dark circles around the eyes, bags under the eyes, puffy eyelids, and combinations thereof.
[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the signs of skin fatigue do not include loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, appearance of fine lines or wrinkles and combinations thereof.Preferably, the cutaneous effects of skin fatigue are selected from loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness of complexion, haggard appearance, dark circles around the eyes, sagging under the eyes and puffy eyelids.
[0108] In certain embodiments, the Lavandula absolute used according to the invention may be used for at least one of the following purposes (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10). a) preventing, treating or reducing dark circles and / or bags under the eyes; b) preventing, treating or reducing eyelid swelling; c) preventing, treating or reducing irregular pigmentation of the skin, including fatigue-induced pigmented spots; d) To even out or unify the complexion; e) a brighter and / or more radiant and / or clearer complexion; f) preventing or treating a dull, pale and / or haggard complexion; g) making the skin more vibrant and brighter, especially on the face; h) softening of facial features; i) making the skin look less tired, more relaxed and more vibrant; j) making the gaze less tiring, more relaxed and more vivid; k) promoting or accelerating the healing of the epidermis, especially on the face; l) revitalizing the skin, especially the face; m) promoting the effect of a radiant complexion; n) preventing, treating or reducing loss of firmness of the skin, especially of the face; and / or o) preventing, treating, slowing or reducing the appearance of wrinkles or fine lines.
[0109] Needless to say, the above listed non-pathological changes are associated with or caused by fatigue of the skin.
[0110] In the above list, the preferred cosmetic benefit sought is one or more of effects a)-g) and i)-m).
[0111] In the context of the present invention, the fatigue that causes non-pathological alteration or change of skin can be of any kind.It can be temporary or chronic fatigue.It can especially be fatigue caused by one or more factors, especially environmental factors.These can be factors such as lack of sleep due to work rhythm or family situation (e.g. birth of a child), sleep disorder or jet lag, poor or unbalanced nutritional health, alcohol consumption, lack of physical activity or excessive physical activity, sedentary lifestyle, overwork, strenuous or inappropriate activity at work, night shift or staggered work hours, significant screen exposure, stress, anxiety or worry related to professional or family life, etc.
[0112] However, it may also be due to physiological situations such as pregnancy or menopause.
[0113] Preferably, the fatigue is not associated with or caused by a pathological condition in the subject.
[0114] In the context of the present invention, the expression "protective agent" is understood to mean a cosmetic agent capable of maintaining the circadian rhythm of the skin and / or preventing alterations in the circadian rhythm of the skin induced in particular by stress, for example environmental stress such as exposure to sunlight, wind, humidity, dryness or methods of the type such as chemicals or friction, light, etc., or else stress related to lifestyle (jet lag, lack of sleep, night shifts, etc.).
[0115] By maintaining the circadian rhythm of the skin, in particular by preventing alterations in the circadian rhythm, the extract according to the invention makes it possible indirectly to prevent cutaneous effects caused by fatigue or caused by exposure to environmental stress or due to lifestyle habits.
[0116] The extract according to the invention is able to prevent the increased expression of clock genes such as Cry2 and Per2 in skin explants subjected to UV irradiation. The same effect was observed for the Neat1 and Neat1-2 genes, which play a crucial role in the regulation of these clock genes.
[0117] According to one embodiment, the lavandin extract according to the present invention is used to maintain the circadian rhythm of skin or prevent changes in the circadian rhythm of skin, for example, caused by exposure to environmental stress, for example, excessive exposure to UV light.The lavandin extract can also be used as a cosmetic agent to resynchronize the circadian rhythm of skin.In particular, the lavandin extract according to the present invention can be used to regulate the expression of genes involved in the circadian cycle, such as clock genes Cry2 and Per2, and / or Neat1 and Neat1-2.
[0118] It has also been demonstrated that the lavandin extract can increase the expression of melatonin in keratinocytes.Therefore, in a particular embodiment, the lavandin extract can also be used as a cosmetic agent to increase the production of melatonin at the skin level.The lavandin extract according to the present invention is used as a drug for enhancing the effect of melatonin on the skin.
[0119] As illustrated in the examples, the application of an extract of lavandin to the skin, especially in very low concentrations that cannot be detected by the sense of smell, makes it possible to improve sleep.
[0120] In a further or alternative embodiment, the extract of lavandin may further be used to improve sleep, in particular to increase total sleep time and / or reduce the time awake after sleep onset (also called WASO).
[0121] According to a further embodiment, the extract of lavandin is used to promote or aid the skin's protective mechanisms during the sleep phase.
[0122] According to a further aspect, the extract of lavandin is used as a skin protection or anti-fatigue agent in subjects subject to fatigue, especially chronic fatigue.
[0123] In a preferred embodiment, the extract according to the invention is not applied to skin that is known to be sensitive, responsive or intolerant, or that otherwise has an atopic tendency.
[0124] "Sensitive, responsive or intolerant skin" is understood to mean skin characterized by a disproportionate responsiveness to external agents that result in skin discomfort. This increased responsiveness may be due to non-pathological changes in the barrier function of the skin that reduce the skin's resistance threshold to external stimuli. "Atopic prone skin" is understood to mean sensitive skin in subjects suffering from atopic dermatitis and / or with an allergic predisposition, i.e. with a history of allergies and / or with a family history of allergies. More generally, the absolute according to the invention is not used as an anti-inflammatory agent, nor as a soothing or calming agent, i.e. as an agent capable of soothing, i.e. reducing or preventing skin discomfort.
[0125] In the use according to the invention, an extract of lavandin is incorporated as cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask, serum or lotion, as described above. The concentration of said extract in such a cosmetic composition is advantageously low and cannot be detected by olfaction. Typically, this concentration is between 0.0005% and 0.05% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 0.01% by weight of said absolute.
[0126] Needless to say, the use according to the present invention is intended for individuals who are subject to fatigue as defined above.The individuals targeted by the present invention can be of any age and sex.In a preferred embodiment, it is a subject under 65 years old.It can be, for example, a woman or man between 25 and 65 years old, in particular between 25 and 55 years old.As an example, it can be a woman between 25 and 45 years old.
[0127] Cosmetic compositions used according to the invention The extract of lavandin described in this application is typically incorporated as a cosmetic agent, more specifically as a regenerating, restorative or anti-fatigue agent.
[0128] In other words, the extract is applied to the skin of an individual that is typically treated with a cosmetic composition.
[0129] A cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition containing said extract may then be prepared in advance for incorporation into a cosmetic composition.
[0130] Such a cosmetic ingredient or such a precursor composition may for example be a composition comprising 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, of an extract of lavandin as described in the present application in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
[0131] The cosmetically acceptable carrier can be of any type, for example it can be a cosmetically acceptable solvent, in particular a lower alcohol, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, triheptanoin, aqueous solutions thereof or mixtures thereof.
[0132] Preferably, the carrier is pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.
[0133] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention consists essentially of or consists of an extract of lavandin according to the invention in a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin, the extract of lavandin being preferably present in a content of 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0134] The cosmetic composition used according to the invention comprises said extract of lavandin, preferably as a cosmetic agent or as a cosmetic ingredient or said precursor composition as described above, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
[0135] Cosmetically acceptable excipients present in the composition include diluents, dispersants, gelling agents, emollients, vectorizing agents (e.g. polycationic polymers, phospholipids, unilamellar or multilamellar liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, lamellar systems, nanosomes, lipid or polymer vesicles, nanospheres, microparticles or nanoparticles of natural or synthetic polymers, hydrogels), gums, resins, solvents, in particular lower alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerol, sorbitol and propylene glycol, fillers, e.g. modified and polymerized starches, titanium dioxide or metal stearates, preservatives, essential oils, pearlizing agents, dyes, odor absorbers. absorbers), pH regulators or neutralisers, lubricants, thickeners, hydrotropes, surfactants including, for example, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, water retention agents, wetting agents, stabilisers, fillers, dispersants, fragrances, organic or other mineral pigments, for example iron oxides, oily agents, for example oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin, synthetic oils, for example petrolatum, silicone oils (cyclomethicone), fatty alcohol esters, fluorinated oils, waxes, modified clays, bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, silica, polyethylene, mica, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, carriers, for example mineral water, spring water or floral water, and / or other substances commonly used in formulations in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical technical fields.
[0136] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.0005% to 0.05%, preferably from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of an extract of lavandin.
[0137] More particularly, said cosmetic composition comprises - 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, of said extract of lavandin, and - 99.95% to 99.9995% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients may include.
[0138] In another embodiment, said cosmetic composition comprises from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, of said precursor composition.
[0139] More particularly, said cosmetic composition comprises - 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight, of said precursor composition, and - 95% to 99.5% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients may include.
[0140] In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more additional active agents with cosmetic effects. The expressions "active ingredient with cosmetic effects" or "active agent with cosmetic effects" or "cosmetics or active agents with cosmetic effects" are understood to mean compounds capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its appendages. The expression "cosmetic effects" is understood to mean any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the visual appearance and mechanical properties of the skin or mucous membranes, for example the lips, or protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals), preventing and / or correcting the phenomena related to their aging, or otherwise preventing or treating the effects caused by stress or fatigue on the skin.
[0141] Examples of such agents are inter alia anti-wrinkle agents, anti-aging agents, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, anti-redness agents, decongestant agents, scrubbing or exfoliating agents, mattifying agents, sebum regulating agents, photoactive agents, anti-blemish active agents, agents to combat dark circles and sagging skin, anti-stress agents, anti-fatigue agents, anti-pollution active agents, tautening agents, sunscreens and sun creams, and combinations thereof.
[0142] In particular, the cosmetic composition may contain tocopherol and / or plant extracts, such as flaxseed extract, Vibrio exopolysaccharide extract, peptides, such as trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2.
[0143] In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition may comprise an active agent selected from anti-wrinkle agents, anti-redness agents, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, sebum regulating agents, anti-blemish or photoactive agents, firming agents, anti-stain active agents, dark circles or puffiness correcting agents, sunscreens or sun creams, and combinations thereof.
[0144] As examples of antifouling agents, mention may be made of extracts of Chrysanthellum indicum, polysaccharides, in particular marine polysaccharides from Alteromonas fermentation media, and bittern salt.
[0145] As examples of dark circle correctors, mention may be made of extracts of Chrysanthellum indicum or else of seaweeds, in particular extracts of Ascophyllum nodosum or Asparagopsis armata, and sulfated polysaccharides.
[0146] Examples of moisturizing agents include urea, pidolic acid (PCA) and its derivatives, in particular its salts, such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, copper salts (copper PCA), magnesium salts (magnesium PCA), sodium salts (sodium PCA) or zinc salts thereof, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts, and other glycosaminoglycans, fructose, glucose, isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, saccharose (sucrose), maltitol, malic acid, maltose ... Mention may be made of ethanol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, histidine, silk hydrolysates, keratin hydrolysates or soy hydrolysates, plant extracts rich in polysaccharides and / or polyphenols, such as extracts of aloe, knapweed (Centaurea cyanus), extracts rich in polysaccharides, in particular those resulting from the fermentation medium of marine microorganisms, such as Alteromonas, and combinations thereof.
[0147] As examples of anti-ageing agents, mention may be made of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosaminoglycans and its derivatives, Cyathea polysaccharides, collagen, extracts of linseed (Linum usitatissimum), peptides, such as caprooyl-tetrapeptide-3, trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, extracts of Polygonum aviculare, extracts of brown algae, in particular Ascophyllum nodosum, extracts of ferns, in particular extracts of Cyathea cumingii.
[0148] As examples of anti-stress agents, mention may be made of Rosality™ products (a combination of rose water and rose essential oil and an extract of the pink-flowered cistus, such as that sold under the brand IBR-Chill™).
[0149] Examples of soothing agents include allantoin, extracts of aloe, birch (e.g. Betula alba), fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium), chestnut (e.g. Castenea sativa), cornflower (e.g. Centella cyanus), Centella asiatica, horsetail (e.g. Equisetum arvense), fennel (e.g. Foeniculum vulgare), witch hazel (e.g. Hamamelis virginiana), ivy (e.g. Hedera helix), Habiscus sabdariffa, lilies (e.g. Madonna lily), and the like. candidum), mallow (e.g. Malva sylvestris), lemon balm (e.g. Melissa officinalis), skullcap (e.g. Scutellaria baicalensis), mimosa (e.g. Mimosa tenuiflora), cinquefoil (e.g. Potentilla erecta), extracts of oligosaccharides or oligosaccharides, peptides such as palmitoyl tripeptide-8, extracts of polysaccharides, in particular exopolysaccharides resulting from Alteromonas fermentation medium, and combinations thereof, may be mentioned.
[0150] As examples of antioxidants, mention may be made of HMR (hydroxymethylresorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride or extracts of Epilobium angustifolium. Active ingredients having antioxidant effect and being of vitamin type are generally used in a weight percentage of at least 1% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0151] As examples of sebum regulating agents, mention may be made of flax lignans, rice flour, zinc gluconate, sarcosine, Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark, avocado extract, lemon myrtle extract and combinations thereof.
[0152] As anti-redness agents, mention may be made of saponins, flavonoids, ruscogenins, esculosides, and extracts containing these, such as extracts of Ruscus, and also certain essential oils, such as lavender or rosemary.
[0153] As examples of anti-stain agents, mention may be made of extracts such as licorice (Glycyrrhyza glabra), extracts of jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus), extracts of dock (R. occidentalis), extracts of plants belonging to the genus Citrus, resveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and combinations thereof.
[0154] In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0% to 30% by weight, such as from 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents.
[0155] In another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises: - 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, of said extract of lavandin, - 69.95% to 99.9995% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, and - 0% to 30% by weight, for example 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents Includes.
[0156] In another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises: - 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight, of a precursor composition or cosmetic ingredient as described above, - 65% to 99.5% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, and - 0% to 30% by weight, for example 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents Includes.
[0157] The extract of lavandin, the precursor composition or the cosmetic ingredient containing it as described in the present application can be incorporated into any kind of cosmetic composition. Preferably, it is a cosmetic composition having a form suitable for topical administration, in particular for application to the skin. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be in any form. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of an aqueous solution, an aqueous-alcoholic solution, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or a multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsion, a nanoemulsion, in particular an O / W nanoemulsion, the droplet size of which is typically less than 100 nm, an aqueous gel or a spherule-supported dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, preferably a suspension in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, a liposomal suspension, a powder, a lotion, a milk, a cream, a salve, a gel, a foam, a balm and an ointment.
[0158] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a cream, balm, mask, serum or lotion. In one preferred mode, the cosmetic composition is a serum, cream, mask or balm, preferably for night use.
[0159] A further subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of cutaneous fatigue in a subject, comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetically effective amount of an extract of lavandin as defined above, or of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
[0160] The objective of the cosmetic method according to the invention is to treat or prevent one or more cutaneous effects of fatigue, preferably selected from changes in skin complexion, in particular pale complexion, dull complexion, loss of complexion radiance or loss of complexion evenness, in particular the appearance of pigmentation spots, haggard features, the appearance of sagging and / or dark circles around the eyes, puffy eyelids, loss of density, loss of firmness, the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and combinations thereof.
[0161] The method according to the invention may make it possible to obtain any one of the following effects in a subject subjected to fatigue: - preventing, treating or reducing dark circles and / or bags under the eyes; - preventing, treating or reducing eyelid swelling; - preventing, treating or reducing irregular pigmentation of the skin, including fatigue-induced pigmented spots; - To even out or unify the complexion, - brighter and / or more radiant and / or clearer complexion; - Preventing or treating a dull, pale and / or haggard complexion; - Makes the skin more vibrant and brighter, especially on the face; - Softening the features of the face, - making the skin look less tired, more relaxed and more vibrant; - Making the gaze less fatigued, more relaxed and more vivid; - promoting or accelerating the healing of the epidermis, especially on the face; - revitalizing the skin, especially the face, - Promoting the effect of a radiant complexion, and / or - Preventing, treating, slowing or reducing the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles.
[0162] In the above list, the preferred cosmetic benefit sought is one or more of effects a)-g) and i)-m).
[0163] In the cosmetic method and use according to the present invention, the administered dose and frequency of administration of the combination according to the present invention vary as a function of the desired cosmetic effect, individual characteristics, in particular their sex, age and skin type.Typically, the extract of lavandin or the cosmetic composition containing it can be applied to the treated area once a day, preferably before going to bed, for consecutive weeks or even months, for example at least 3 months.For example, patients can apply a dose of 1g to 2g of the cosmetic composition to their face in the evening.
[0164] General definition Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application pertains.
[0165] The present application is not limited by the examples of methods, uses, and compositions described herein, and all methods, uses, and compositions similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in embodiments of the present application.
[0166] The section headings and titles provided herein should not be considered limitations of the various aspects or embodiments of the application. The section headings and titles provided herein are for organizational purposes only and should not be construed as limiting the invention described. All defined terms are more fully defined by reference to the entire application.
[0167] All publications, including patent documents and scientific papers, referred to in this application are incorporated by reference in their entirety to the same extent as if each individual publication was individually incorporated by reference. Citation of these publications should not be construed in any way as an admission that such publications constitute prior art. In the event that a definition set forth in this application is contrary to or inconsistent with a definition set forth in a patent, application, application publication, or other publication incorporated herein by reference, the definition set forth in this application shall take precedence over the definition incorporated by reference.
[0168] All features described in this application may be combined in any combination. Each feature described in this application may be replaced by another feature having the same purpose or an equivalent or similar purpose. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, each feature disclosed is only one example of a generic series of equivalent or similar features.
[0169] Definitions of terms may be made clear throughout the specification. It is to be understood that the specification is not limited to the specific embodiments described, as the specific embodiments may of course vary. It is also to be understood that the terminology used in the specification is for the sole purpose of describing the specific embodiments, and is not intended to be limiting.
[0170] Please note that as used in this specification and the appended claims, the singular forms "a(n)," "one," and "the" include plural referents unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. For example, "a(n)" and "one" include "at least one" and "one or more."
[0171] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "comprises," and "composed of" are synonymous with the terms "including," "includes," "containing," "contains," and grammatical variations thereof. These terms are inclusive or open-ended and do not exclude the presence of additional, unrecited members, elements or method steps.
[0172] Where a range of values is provided, it is understood that each intermediate value between the upper and lower limits of the range is also specifically disclosed and encompassed herein.
[0173] Other aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the following examples, which should be considered as illustrative and in no way limiting. EXAMPLES
[0174] Example 1 Preparation of Lavandin Extract Fresh flower tops of lavandin (Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia) derived from organic farming were immersed in a bio-based terpene solvent, also certified organic and containing approximately 80%-90% monoterpene compounds (approximately 2-10 L per kg of flowers), at a temperature of 50 °C for at least 90 min. The mixture was decanted and the liquid phase and the flowers were separated. The flowers were placed back into the terpene solvent for 90 min at 50 °C for another immersion. The liquid phases from the two immersions were combined and the terpene solvent was distilled under reduced pressure to obtain a concrete.
[0175] The concrete was then dissolved in ethanol. The mixture was homogenized, heated slightly, and then cooled to allow the wax to precipitate. The mixture was then filtered.
[0176] The filtrate was collected. The wax was dissolved in ethanol. The mixture was hot homogenized, cooled to precipitate the wax, and filtered. This process was repeated twice.
[0177] The collected filtrates were combined and the solvent was evaporated under reduced pressure to give the extract (also known as the absolute). The overall yield is typically between 9% and 16%.
[0178] Example 2 Characterization of lavandin extracts - GC / FID analysis The extract is characterized by gas chromatography coupled with a flame ionization detector (GC / FID) The analytical conditions are as follows:
[0179] GC / FID analysis was performed on an Agilent 6890 instrument (Agilent Technologies) equipped with a flame ionization detector (FID), an automatic liquid sampler, and an HP-1MS capillary column (100% dimethylpolysiloxane, 60 m×0.15 mm ID, 0.25 μm film thickness, Agilent Technologies). The oven temperature was held at 60° C. for 10 min, then programmed from 60° C. to 300° C. at 2° C. / min, and finally held at 300° C. for 10 min. The injector and detector temperatures were 250° C. and 300° C., respectively, with H2 (1.0 ml / min) as carrier gas, injected in split mode (1:50), and the injection volume was 0.1 ml. The flow rates of O2, H2, and FID make-up gas were 350, 35, and 20 ml / min, respectively.
[0180] The following table shows the distribution of volatile compounds present in the extract of lavandin according to the invention. For each compound, the percentage shown corresponds to the percentage area of the peak corresponding to the chemical compound of interest relative to the total area of the peaks in the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis.
[0181] [Table 1]
[0182] Example 3 Increased melatonin production in keratinocytes The aim of this study was to detect the presence of melatonin in keratinocyte cell cultures and to demonstrate that an extract of lavandin is able to increase the synthesis of melatonin.
[0183] Protocol: At t=0, keratinocytes were seeded in a flask of culture medium, and after 4 days the culture medium was renewed and incubated for 5 days. At t=5, approximately 20×10 6After amplification to cells / flasks, the medium was replaced with treatment medium containing (0.0005%) or not (control) the extract from Example 1, and the cells were incubated for 48 hours. All experimental conditions were performed in duplicate. At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatant was collected. The cells were detached and the cell pellet was washed with phosphate buffered saline (PBS) solution after a centrifugation step and lyophilized at -80°C.
[0184] Melatonin was extracted from the cell pellet and quantified by LC-MS / MS. After returning to room temperature, the pellet was washed twice with 250 μL of water and placed in a tube. A solution of the internal standard (100 μL), 1 mL of saturated saline (sodium chloride) solution and 3 mL of dichloromethane were then added. The mixture was stirred for 10 min at room temperature and centrifuged for 3 min at 4500 rpm. The lower organic phase was collected and placed in a new tube. Evaporation to dryness at 40° C. under nitrogen was then performed. The upper aqueous phase was collected and 3 mL of dichloromethane was added. The mixture was stirred for 10 min at room temperature and centrifuged for 5 min at 4500 rpm. The lower organic phase was collected and combined with the previous organic phase. Evaporation to dryness at 40° C. under nitrogen was then performed. The residue was suspended and dissolved in 500 μL of methanol and then evaporated to dryness at 40° C. under nitrogen. The residue was then suspended in 50 μL of methanol for analysis. The analytical method used was liquid chromatography coupled with MS / MS detection.
[0185] The instrumentation used was as follows: Series 1100 (Agilent) HPLC system connected to a CTC injector and Quattro Micro API (Waters) triple quadrupole mass spectrometry detector, Masslynx 4.0 software (control, acquisition, execution-Waters). The following parameters were used: column: RP18, column temperature: 30°C, mobile phase: water + 0.2% acetic acid / methanol + 0.2% acetic acid, elution mode: gradient, injection volume: 20 μL, run time: 20 min, MS detection: ESI, polarity: positive, acquisition mode: MRM, mass transitions m / z: melatonin: 232 → 174; melatonin d4: 236 → 177.
[0186] result: Melatonin was 30.95ng / 20×10 in NHEK cells. 6 When cells were treated with lavandin absolute, 2.10 x 10 6 An increase in ng / cell (+6.8%) was observed.
[0187] Example 4 Regulation of circadian rhythm genes in skin explants Protocol: The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of the extract according to the invention on skin explants and to demonstrate this protective activity on various circadian rhythm genes in the skin.
[0188] 51 explants with a mean diameter of 11 mm (+1 mm) were prepared from an abdominoplasty (reference: P2471-AB46, phototype II-III (according to Fitzpatrick skin classification)) from a 46 year old Caucasian woman. The explants were kept alive for 2 days in BEM medium (BIO-EC's explant medium) at 37°C in a humid atmosphere containing 5% CO2. On days 0, 1 and 2, the explants were inoculated with a placebo (group "E-UV" or "E") or with an extract according to the invention (group "Extract-UV"), with a thickness of 1 cm from the explant to the skin surface of the corresponding explant. 2 2μL per unit (≒2mg / cm 2 The explants were then topically treated with 13.5 J / cm2, corresponding to 3 MED (minimal erythema dose). 2 of UVA or 1 MED corresponds to 0.15 J / cm 2("E-UV" and "Extract-UV" groups) or not ("E" group). At the end of the irradiation, culture medium was added instead of HBSS. On day 3, the explants were fixed in RNAlater and then RNA was extracted using the ReliaPrep™ RNA Tissue Miniprep System (Promega, Fiber). RNA quality and concentration were assessed before performing the reverse transcription step with iScript (Bio-Rad, 20 μl / reaction). Spike controls were used to calculate ΔCq. The criteria assessed for each qPCR reaction using the CFX Manager 3.1 software were: - Logarithmic curve of amplification for each sequence of interest. - The melting curve is the fluorescence intensity recorded after the final cycle, where the temperature goes from 65°C to 96°C in 0.5°C increments every 5 seconds. - The curve represents the inverse derivative of the fluorescence signal as a function of temperature (°C) and makes it possible to verify single amplicons.
[0189] All samples were subjected to gene expression profile analysis. For quantification, cycle numbers were normalized to the reference gene B2M. (i) Cq(relative abundance) per sample and per gene = E(gene)(Cq(control)-Cq(treatment)). E = Efficiency of primer pair = (Efficiency % * 0.01)+1 Cq(control) = quantification threshold calculated by CFX Maestro in "regression" mode for the control condition. Cq(treatment) = quantification threshold calculated by CFX Maestro in "regression" mode for the treatment condition. Gene = target gene (ii) Normalized target gene expression = NE NE = normalized expression of sample (gene) = Cq sample (gene) / ((Cq sample (ref1) * Cq sample (ref2) 1 / n Cq = relative quantity The denominator corresponds to a normalization factor that includes two reference genes: ref1 = B2M Gene = target gene
[0190] For each gene of interest, values were calculated between treatment samples in triplicate relative to matched explant control samples for each dynamic time point. A gene was considered induced if its expression showed an increase greater than or equal to 1.5 (fold change ≧1.5) relative to the control. Similarly, a gene was considered repressed if it showed a significant decrease in its expression relative to the control. Furthermore, homogeneous gene regulation was maintained among the three biological replicates, and P values <0.05 (by T-test) are indicated by an asterisk.
[0191] Results: During the study, it was observed that UV light induced a strong increase in the expression of the genes Cry2, Per2 and also Neat1 and Neat1-2 (E-UV control group, not treated with the extract according to the invention) compared to the condition without UV light (group E). This effect was prevented by treating the explants with the extract according to the invention (extract-UV group). In particular, the extract significantly prevents the increase in the expression of some genes regulating the circadian cycle, such as Cry2, Per2, induced by exposure to UV light, allowing them to move to the expression level of condition E. This demonstrates that the extract according to the invention is able to protect the skin from the deregulation of the cutaneous circadian cycle induced by environmental stress. Furthermore, a strong and significant inhibition of the expression of the genes Neat1 and Neat1-2 was also observed compared to the UV condition. These genes are in particular involved in the regulation of the genes of the circadian cycle, allowing its rhythmicity.
[0192] All these results support the use of the extract according to the invention as an anti-fatigue, protective agent for the skin (Figure 1).
[0193] [Table 2]
[0194] Example 5 Improved sleep Protocol: Thirty-two healthy subjects (16 men, aged 22-56 years, median age 41.5 years) with self-reported mild sleep disturbances caused by lifestyle-related factors but no clinical sleep disorder diagnosis were selected.
[0195] The study consisted of two facial creams, one 'active' cream and one 'placebo' cream, used separately over a period of three weeks. - "Active" cream: unscented generic face cream containing 1% precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract from Example 1 in pentylene glycol (A-Leen® 5, Minasolve), - "Placebo" cream: unscented generic (see Example 6, Table 3 below) face cream containing only 1% pentylene glycol (A-Leen® 5, Minasolve).
[0196] Devices: For objective sleep measurements, subjects used the SleepScore Max device (SleepScore Labs, Carlsbad, CA), a non-contact monitoring device that uses respiratory signals and motion detection to detect sleep, and was verified by polysomnography (PSG), the standard method for measuring sleep. All self-reported data were recorded using Compusense, an online data collection software.
[0197] Test Design and Procedure: - A contextual, randomized, counterbalanced trial using an unscented control cream. - Subjects applied the cream at bedtime in their natural sleeping environment. - The test lasted for three consecutive weeks from Sunday evening to Friday morning. - Subjects used a different sample each week. A control sample was used in week 2. Table 3 shows an overview of the study design. - Each night of the study, subjects completed daily questionnaires and monitored their sleep using a SleepScore Max device.
[0198] [Table 3]
[0199] Data Analysis: Objective and self-reported data on nighttime sleep were analyzed using JMP Pro (version 15) statistical software using a between-subject mixed model. An alpha level of 0.05 was used for all statistical tests. Comparisons were made between control and active cream. Percentages are derived from calculations relative to the control condition.
[0200] Statistical methods: The data obtained and variables as percentages were subjected to a two-way Student's t-test for paired data. Statistically significant value was P<0.05.
[0201] result: The extract of lavandin according to the invention significantly increased the total sleep time (p<0.05) compared to the control. On average, subjects slept 6.6 hours (393 minutes) per night using the unscented control cream, compared to 6.8 hours (408 minutes) using the cream containing the extract according to the invention. Furthermore, the time to wake up after sleep onset (also known as WASO) was on average 30 minutes per night using the unscented control cream, compared to 25 minutes using the cream containing the extract according to the invention (Figures 2 and 3).
[0202] Example 6 Cosmetics incorporating the extract used according to the invention A) A night cream containing 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in pentylene glycol.
[0203] [Table 4]
[0204] B) An anti-fatigue cream containing 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in triheptanoin.
[0205] [Table 5]
[0206] Example 7 Clinical Trials Protocol: A clinical trial was carried out to confirm the anti-fatigue effect of the extract according to the invention on dark circles around the eyes. 44 volunteers were divided equally into two groups (test group: 22 on the "active" cream, and placebo group: 22 on the placebo cream).
[0207] The enrolled volunteers were people with staggered work schedules, young adults who were very socially active and used to going out and going to bed late or traveling (jet lag), or young mothers, and thus had a disturbed sleep cycle but were not being treated for their sleep disorder.
[0208] Two creams were tested. - "Active" cream: unscented generic face cream (anti-fatigue cream from Table 5 above) containing 1% precursor composition containing 0.5% by weight of the extract from Example 1 in triheptanoin, - "Placebo" cream: The same unscented generic face cream, but containing only 1% triheptanoin (i.e., no extract).
[0209] Dark circles were assessed from the original images taken by the Bio Blue Light Scanner for each volunteer. The images were processed by specific software and dark circles were measured at various times after 12 h, 7 days and 28 days using the individual typology angle (ITA°).
[0210] Statistical methods: At each time, statistical tests were performed to analyze the significance of the parameter changes. The obtained data and percentage variables were subjected to a two-way analysis of variance. Statistical significance was determined as p<0.05 ( # p<0.1: * p<0.05, ** p<0.01, *** p<0.001, **** p<0.0001).
[0211] result: The results of the evaluation of dark circles are illustrated in Figure 4, which shows a rapid, progressive and significant reduction in dark circles under the eyes in subjects treated with an active cream compared to subjects treated with a placebo cream. The fat-soluble extract of lavandin according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce dark circles in subjects with a disturbed sleep cycle.
[0212] The scope of the present invention is not intended to be limited to the specific embodiments described, which are provided, for example, to illustrate various aspects of the present invention. Various modifications or variations of the described compositions and methods will become apparent in light of the descriptions and teachings provided in this application. Such modifications can be made without departing from the true scope and spirit of this application, and are intended to be included within the scope of this patent application. Although the present invention may be described in connection with certain preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the invention claimed should not be unduly limited to such specific embodiments. Indeed, various modifications or variations of the embodiments of the present invention that are obvious to those skilled in the art of cosmetics or related fields are intended to be within the scope of the following claims.
[0213] Exemplary embodiments: 1. Cosmetic use of an extract of lavandin obtained by immersion of lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent as a protective cosmetic agent for healthy skin or as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent.
[0214] 2. The cosmetic use according to embodiment 1, characterized in that the extract of lavandin is an extract of a hybrid selected from Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia, Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula intermedia.
[0215] 3. The cosmetic use according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the extract of lavandin is used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of evenness of complexion, haggard features, dark circles around the eyes, sagging under the eyes, puffy eyelids, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, and combinations thereof.
[0216] 4. A cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 3, in which the extract is used as a cosmetic agent for promoting or improving the protection of the skin against environmental stress.
[0217] 5. A cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4, wherein the extract is further used to improve sleep, in particular to increase total sleep time and / or to reduce the time spent awake after sleep onset.
[0218] 6. Cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 5, in which the extract is used as a cosmetic agent for resynchronizing or preventing alterations in the circadian rhythm of the skin, in particular after exposure to environmental stress.
[0219] 7. Cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6, wherein the extract is used to increase the production of melatonin at the skin level.
[0220] 8. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding embodiments, characterized in that the extract of lavandin contains at least 8.0% of sesquiterpene compounds, the percentage corresponding to the percentage of the area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by absolute GC / FID analysis.
[0221] 9. Lavandin extract, - 10.0% to 20.0% of sesquiterpene compounds selected from beta-caryophyllene, trans-beta-farnesene, gamma-cadinene and alpha-bisabolol; linalool up to 30.0%, preferably between 6.0% and 18.0%, - at least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavandulyl acetate Including, Cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 8, characterized in that the percentage corresponds to the percentage of the area represented by the peak of the sesquiterpene compound relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by absolute GC / FID analysis.
[0222] 10. The extract is - immersing a lavandin plant material, preferably flower tops, in a terpene solvent, recovering a liquid phase after immersion, and removing the terpene solvent from the liquid phase to obtain a concrete; and - A process to remove wax from concrete to obtain an extract 10. The cosmetic use according to any one of embodiments 1 to 9, characterized in that it is obtainable by a process comprising:
[0223] 11. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding embodiments, characterized in that the terpene solvent comprises at least 85% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, of terpene compounds.
[0224] 12. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding embodiments, in which the extract is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask or serum.
[0225] 13. The cosmetic use according to embodiment 12, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, of said extract.
[0226] 14. Cosmetic use according to embodiment 12 or 13, wherein the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels or spheroid-supported dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, preferably suspensions in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, liposomal suspensions, powders, lotions, milks, creams, salves, gels, foams and ointments.
[0227] 15. A cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of cutaneous fatigue in a subject, comprising application to the skin of a cosmetically effective amount of an extract as defined in any one of embodiments 1-2 and 8-11.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition for use as an anti-fatigue cosmetic to increase melatonin skin production in healthy skin, comprising a lipid-soluble extract of lavandin obtained by immersion of lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further used as a cosmetic for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological changes in circadian rhythms in healthy skin, and / or as a cosmetic for promoting or assisting the protective mechanisms of the skin during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further used to improve sleep in a tired subject, particularly to increase total sleep time, and / or to reduce the time spent awake after the onset of sleep.
4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin luster, dull complexion, pale complexion, loss of skin tone uniformity, gaunt appearance, dark circles around the eyes, sagging under the eyes, puffy eyelids, and combinations thereof.
5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the lavandin extract is a hybrid extract selected from Lavandula angustifolia 'Mill' × Lavandula latifolia, Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula intermedia.
6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the lavandin extract contains at least 8.0% of a sesquiterpene compound, the percentage corresponding to the percentage of the area represented by the peak of the sesquiterpene compound relative to the total area of peaks in the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the extract.
7. Lavandin extract, - 10.0% to 20.0% of sesquiterpene compounds selected from beta-caryophyllene, trans-beta-farnesene, gamma-cadinene, and alpha-bisabolol. - Up to 30.0%, preferably 6.0% to 18.0% linalool, - At least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavandulyl acetate Includes, The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the percentage corresponds to the percentage of the area represented by the peak of the sesquiterpene compound relative to the total area of the peaks in the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the extract.
8. The extract is - A process comprising immersing lavandin plant material, preferably the flower apex, in a terpene solvent, recovering the liquid phase after immersion, and removing the terpene solvent from this liquid phase to obtain concrete, and - A process of removing wax present in concrete to obtain an extract. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it can be obtained by a method comprising [a certain element].
9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the terpene solvent contains at least 85% by mass, preferably at least 90% by mass, of a terpene compound.
10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the extract is present as a cosmetic surfactant in the cosmetic composition, which is a cream, balm, mask, or serum.
11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the cosmetic composition contains 0.0005% by mass to 0.05% by mass, preferably 0.001% by mass to 0.01% by mass of the extract.
12. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of an aqueous solution, an aqueous-alcohol solution, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or an oil-in-water (W / O) emulsion or a multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsion, a nanoemulsion, particularly an O / W nanoemulsion, an aqueous gel, or a spherical-supported dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, preferably a suspension in an aqueous or aqueous-alcohol medium, a liposome suspension, a powder, a lotion, a milk, a cream, a plaster, a gel, a foam, and an ointment.
13. A cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a tired subject, comprising applying to the skin a cosmetically effective amount of a lipid-soluble extract of lavandin obtained by immersing a lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent.
14. The cosmetic method according to claim 13, wherein the lavandin extract is as defined in any one of claims 5 to 9.
15. The cosmetic method according to claim 13, wherein a lavandin extract is present in the cosmetic composition specified in any one of claims 10 to 12.
16. The cosmetic method according to claim 13, wherein the sign of skin fatigue is dark circles, and the extract is applied to the area around the eyes.
17. The cosmetic method according to claim 13, wherein fatigue in the subject is caused by one or more factors selected from sleep deprivation, jet lag, poor or unbalanced nutrition, alcohol consumption, lack of or excessive physical activity, sedentary lifestyle, overwork, strenuous or inappropriate work, night shift or staggered work hours, screen exposure, and stress.
18. A cosmetic ingredient comprising a lavandin extract as defined in claim 1 in a carrier acceptable for cosmetic use.
19. The cosmetic ingredient according to claim 18, comprising or consisting of 0.1% to 1.5% by mass of the lavandin extract in a cosmetic-grade carrier selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.
20. The cosmetic ingredient according to claim 18, wherein the lavandin extract exists as an anti-fatigue cosmetic for increasing melatonin skin production in healthy skin and / or for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological changes in the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and / or for promoting or assisting the protective mechanisms of the skin during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
21. A cosmetic composition comprising a lavandin extract as defined in any one of claims 1 or 5 to 9, or a cosmetic ingredient as defined in claim 18, in combination with at least one cosmetic-grade excipient.
22. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, selected from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, aqueous-alcohol solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, particularly O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or spherical-supported dispersions of adipose phase in an aqueous phase, preferably suspensions in an aqueous or aqueous-alcohol medium, liposome suspensions, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, foams, and ointments.
23. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, which is a care product for use in treating or preventing skin fatigue, for example, a serum, cream, mask, or balm for use at night.
24. A cosmetic composition for use in the production of an anti-fatigue cosmetic composition for increasing melatonin skin production in healthy skin, and / or for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological changes in the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and / or for promoting or assisting the protective mechanisms of the skin during the sleep phase in healthy skin, comprising a lavandin extract as defined in any one of claims 1 or 5 to 9, or a cosmetic ingredient as defined in claim 18 or 19.