Hair conditioner composition containing a non-silicone conditioning agent
The hair conditioner composition, featuring an L basal lamellar gel network and specific non-silicone ingredients, addresses the need for effective, non-silicone hair conditioning, offering improved detangling and repair while being environmentally friendly.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2024568627
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-05-17
- Filing Date
- 2023-05-17
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-17
- Estimated Expiration
- Not applicable · inactive patent
AI Technical Summary
There is a need for a hair conditioner that provides the benefits of silicone-based conditioners without the drawbacks of silicone accumulation, environmental sustainability concerns, and user preferences for non-silicone formulations.
A hair conditioner composition containing an L basal lamellar gel network, dicarboxylic acid amine salt, diester, and glycerin ester copolymer, which provides a robust structure for hair conditioning while avoiding the use of silicones.
The composition effectively conditions hair by improving detangling, providing a smooth feel, and repairing damaged hair, while maintaining a non-silicone, environmentally friendly formulation.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a hair conditioner composition, and more specifically, to a hair conditioner composition containing a non-silicone conditioning agent.
Background Art
[0002] For conditioning hair, various methods have been developed. These methods range from applying hair conditioners such as leave-on products and rinse-off products after shampooing to hair conditioning shampoos that attempt to wash and condition hair from a single product.
[0003] Some consumers prefer the ease and convenience of a shampoo containing a conditioner, but a significant proportion of consumers prefer more traditional conditioner formulations that are applied to the hair as a separate step from shampooing, usually after shampooing. Conditioning formulations can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be in the form of emulsions, creams, gels, sprays, or mousses. Such consumers who prefer traditional conditioner formulations value a relatively high conditioning effect or the convenience of varying the amount of conditioning according to the condition or amount of the hair.
[0004] Silicone fluids are widely used in hair conditioners to provide various hair benefits such as reducing combing force, improving slipperiness, increasing hair luster, preventing frizz, and maintaining hairstyles. The silicone fluids most frequently used in hair conditioners include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, phenyltrimethicone, dimethiconol, aminosilicone, amodimethicone, pendant quaternary ammonium silicone, terminal quaternary ammonium silicone, aminopolyalkylene oxide silicone, quaternary ammonium polyalkylene oxide silicone, and aminomorpholino silicone. However, silicone is not easily washed out during shampooing, and over time, silicone accumulates on the hair surface, making the hair heavy and causing it to droop due to the weight. In addition, most silicones are not readily biodegradable and do not meet environmental sustainability requirements. Therefore, some consumers prefer hair care products without silicone, and there is a tendency for beauty products to be substantially silicone-free.
[0005] Natural oils and waxes have been formulated into hair conditioners to replace silicone for hair conditioning. They are typically vegetable triglyceride oils and waxes, such as coconut oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, pekoe oil, argan oil, almond oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, hemp seed oil, avocado oil, grapeseed oil, evening primrose oil, camellia oil, moringa oil, meadowfoam oil, cranberry oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, Japanese quince wax, orange wax, and carnauba wax. The main consumer benefits of using natural oils in hair conditioners are hair moisturization and scalp health. However, there can be drawbacks such as a draggy feel in wet rinses, oil balling up on the dry hair surface resulting in an oily and sticky feel, and difficulty in styling and maintaining hairstyles.
Summary of the Invention
Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0006] Therefore, there is a need for a hair conditioner containing a non-silicone hair conditioning substance that can still provide consumers with the advantages and characteristics of a conditioner containing silicone.
Means for Solving the Problems
[0007] (a) An L basal lamellar gel network, (b) about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt% of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt, (c) about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt% of a diester, and (d) about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt% of a glycerin ester copolymer, a hair conditioner composition containing the same.
Modes for Carrying Out the Invention
[0008] This specification specifically points out the present invention and is enclosed by the "claims" that clearly claim the patent. However, the present invention is considered to be better understood from the following description.
[0009] The hair conditioner composition of the present invention may contain (a) an L basal lamellar gel network, (b) about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt% of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt, (c) about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt% of a diester, and (d) about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt% of a glycerin ester copolymer. The L basal lamellar gel network composition contains (i) an aqueous carrier, (ii) about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt% of a cationic surfactant, and (iii) about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt% of an aliphatic alcohol. The L basal lamellar gel network has a d-spacing of about 5 nm to about 50 nm when measured according to the d-spacing (L basal spacing) of the lamellar gel network test method, and the composition has a shear stress of about 40 Pa to about 800 Pa at 950 1 / s.
[0010] Hair conditioners are used to improve the feel, appearance, and manageability of hair. Hair conditioning compositions generally comprise (i) a cationic surfactant, (ii) a high melting point aliphatic compound having a melting point above 25°C, in some examples from 40°C to 85°C, and (iii) an aqueous carrier, and are formed by a manufacturing process (e.g., heating, emulsifying, and cooling) to have an L basal lamellar gel network structure. The L basal lamellar gel network structure provides (a) an aesthetic appearance with a creamy texture, a smooth feel in the hand, and richness when spread, preferred by consumers, (b) a wet conditioning effect including improved detangling of wet hair and a smooth rinsing feel, (c) a protective effect on dry hair such as repair of damaged hair and prevention of static electricity, and (d) a robust structure for suspending and delivering hair conditioning active ingredients such as silicones, oils, and particles.
[0011] To provide consumer benefits and have a robust structure for hair conditioner compositions, in the present invention, a preferred L basal lamellar gel network structure has a d-spacing (L basal spacing) of from about 5 nm to about 50 nm when measured according to the d-spacing (L basal spacing) of the lamellar gel network test method. Also, the composition can have a shear stress of from about 40 Pa to about 800 Pa at 950 1 / s.
[0012] Silicones have been used in hair conditioner compositions to provide hair effects such as a smooth hair feel, hair gloss, hair moisturization, repair of damaged hair, hair manageability, hair styling, and curl retention. To provide such consumer benefits, the non-silicone hair conditioning composition of the present invention can comprise (a) a dicarboxylic acid amine salt, (b) a diester, and (c) a glycerin ester copolymer.
[0013] Dicarboxylic acid amine salts can be used in the compositions of the present invention to increase the adhesion of conditioning active substances to the hair surface, resulting in benefits such as improved hair moisturization, hair softness, anti-static properties, and repair of damaged hair. The level in the composition can be from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight. If the level of the dicarboxylic acid amine salt is too high, it can adhere excessively to the hair surface, causing the hair to droop due to the weight and reducing the volume of the hair. This can result in a sticky and dirty feeling.
[0014] Diesters can be used in the present composition to provide lubricity to the conditioner composition, resulting in a smoothness of the hair surface preferred by consumers, an increase in the sleek feel of the hair, and an increase in the gloss of the hair. The level in the composition can be from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight. If the level of the diester is too high, the diester can move into the preferred L basal lamellar gel network structure, reducing the robustness of the product.
[0015] Glycerin ester copolymers can be used in the present composition to form a thin film on the hair surface, resulting in smoothness of the hair surface, an increase in bounce and flexibility of the hair, repair of damaged hair, improved curl retention, and an increase in the ease of handling of the hair. The level in the composition can be from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight. If the level of the glycerin ester copolymer is too high, it becomes difficult to spread on the hair surface, adheres excessively to the hair surface, causing the hair to droop due to the weight and reducing the volume of the hair. This can result in a sticky and dirty feeling.
[0016] Surprisingly, the hair conditioner composition of the present invention containing (a) an L basal lamellar gel network, (b) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt, (c) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a diester, and (d) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a glycerin ester copolymer can provide consumer-preferred benefits without using silicone.
[0017] Furthermore, natural vegetable oils or waxes derived from plants and / or vegetables are used as hair conditioning active substances to provide a hair conditioning effect. However, the disadvantages are that the oil can be slippery during washing, reducing the rinsing feeling when wet, spreading unevenly on the hair surface, the oil droplets spheroidizing on the hair surface, resulting in a greasy feel, and the hair can hang down due to the weight.
[0018] Surprisingly, the hair conditioner composition of the present invention comprising (a) an L basal lamellar gel network, (b) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt, (c) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a diester, (d) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a glycerin ester copolymer, and (d) from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of a natural oil or wax can provide consumer-pleasing benefits without using silicone.
[0019] L basal lamellar gel network The conditioner of the present invention may include an L-based lamellar gel network that can provide conditioning effects such as improving the detangling of wet hair during washing and the wet feeling of hair after rinsing the conditioner. As used herein, the term "gel network" refers to a lamellar or vesicular solid crystalline phase containing at least one high melting point aliphatic compound such as a fatty alcohol specified below, at least one surfactant, in particular a cationic surfactant specified below, and water or another suitable solvent. The lamellar or vesicular phase includes a bilayer in which a first layer containing a high melting point aliphatic compound and a surfactant alternates with a second layer containing water or another suitable solvent. The gel network is generally further described by G.M. Eccleston, "Functions of Mixed Emulsifiers and Emulsifying Waxes in Dermatological Lotions and Creams", Colloids and Surfaces A: Physiochem. and Eng. Aspects 123-124 (1997) 169-182, and G.M Eccleston, "The Microstructure of Semisolid Creams", Pharmacy International, Vol. 7, 63-70 (1986).
[0020] The L-based lamellar gel network can be formed by (a) a cationic surfactant, (b) a high melting point aliphatic compound, and (c) an aqueous carrier. The L-based lamellar gel network is suitable for providing various conditioning effects such as a smooth feeling when applied to wet hair, softness and moistness to dry hair, and the like.
[0021] Alternatively, when forming an L-based lamellar gel network, the cationic surfactant and the high melting point aliphatic compound are contained at levels such that the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high melting point aliphatic compound is, or about 1:1 to about 1:10, or about 1:1 to about 1:7, or about 1:1.5 to about 1:7, or about 1:1.5 to about 1:5, or about 1:2 to about 1:6, or about 1:2 to about 1:5, considering the improvement of the wet conditioning effect.
[0022] Alternatively, especially when forming an L-based lamellar gel network, the composition of the present invention is substantially free of anionic surfactants in consideration of the stability of the gel network. In the present invention, "the composition is substantially free of anionic surfactants" means that the composition does not contain anionic surfactants, or, when the composition contains anionic surfactants, the level of such anionic surfactants is very low. In the present invention, the total level when such anionic surfactants are contained can be, or 1% by weight or less, or 0.5% by weight or less, or 0.1% by weight or less of the composition. Alternatively, in most cases, the total level of such anionic surfactants is 0% by weight of the composition.
[0023] Alternatively, when forming an L-based lamellar gel network, the L-based lamellar gel network can have a d-spacing of about 5 nm to about 50 nm, or about 8 nm to about 45 nm, or about 10 nm to about 40 nm, or about 12 nm to about 35 nm when measured according to the d-spacing (L-based spacing) of the lamellar gel network test method. The composition of the present invention can have a shear stress of about 40 Pa to about 800 Pa at 950 1 / s, or about 50 Pa to about 700 Pa at 950 1 / s, or about 50 Pa to about 600 Pa at 950 1 / s, or about 60 Pa to about 600 Pa at 950 1 / s.
[0024] Cationic surfactant The composition of the present invention can contain a cationic surfactant. Considering the effects of the present invention, the cationic surfactant can be included in the composition at a level of from about 0.1% by weight, or from about 0.5% by weight, or from about 0.8% by weight, or from about 1.0% by weight to about 20% by weight, or to about 15% by weight, or to about 12% by weight, or to about 10% by weight, or to about 8.0% by weight, or to about 6.0% by weight of the composition.
[0025] The surfactant may be water-insoluble. In the present invention, the "water-insoluble surfactant" means that the surfactant has a solubility in water at 25°C, or less than 0.5 g / 100 g of water (excluding 0.5 g / 100 g), or 0.3 g / 100 g of water or less.
[0026] The cationic surfactant may be one cationic surfactant or a mixture of two or more cationic surfactants. Alternatively, the cationic surfactant is selected from mono-long-chain alkylamines; di-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts; mono-long-chain alkyl cationic neutralized amino acid esters; combinations of mono-long-chain alkylamines and di-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts; and combinations of mono-long-chain alkylamines and mono-long-chain alkyl cationic neutralized amino acid esters.
[0027] Mono-long-chain alkylamine The mono-long-chain alkylamine can include those having one long-chain alkyl chain having 19 to 30 carbon atoms, or 19 to 24 carbon atoms, or 20 to 24 carbon atoms, or 20 to 22 alkyl groups. The mono-long-chain alkylamine can include mono-long-chain alkylamidoamines. Primary, secondary, and tertiary aliphatic amines can be used.
[0028] Tertiary amide amines having an alkyl group of about 19 to about 22 carbons. Exemplary tertiary amide amines include behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, brassidamidopropyldimethylamine, brassidamidopropyldiethylamine, brassidamidoethyldiethylamine, brassidamidoethyldimethylamine. The amines in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,275,055 (Nachtigal et al.).
[0029] In some examples, the conditioner composition may not substantially contain, or may not contain, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitylamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitylamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitylamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitylamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, and / or diethylaminoethyl stearamide.
[0030] These amines are used in combination with acids such as L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; or lactic acid, citric acid, in a molar ratio of amine to acid of about 1:0.3 to about 1:2, or about 1:0.4 to about 1:1. The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.25 wt% to about 6 wt% acid, or from about 0.4 wt% to about 5 wt% acid, from about 0.5 wt% to about 4 wt% acid, or from about 0.6 wt% to about 3 wt% acid.
[0031] In some examples, the conditioner composition may not contain a mono-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt.
[0032] Mono-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt The mono-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein have one long alkyl chain having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably a C18-22 alkyl group. The remaining groups bonded to nitrogen are independently selected from alkyl groups of 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, or alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamide groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups, or alkylaryl groups having up to about 4 carbon atoms.
[0033] The mono-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein have the formula (I):
[0034] [Chemical formula] wherein R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 of which one is selected from an alkyl group of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group, alkoxy group, polyoxyalkylene group, alkylamide group, hydroxyalkyl group, aryl group, or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms, and the remainder of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 , and R 78 are independently selected from alkyl groups of 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, or alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamide groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups, or alkylaryl groups having up to about 4 carbon atoms, and X - is a salt-forming anion, for example, selected from halogens (e.g., chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkyl sulfate, and alkyl sulfonate groups. The alkyl group may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and / or ester linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer-chain alkyl groups, for example, those having about 12 or more carbon atoms, may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, R75 , R 76 , R 77 , and R 78 One of them is selected from alkyl groups having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 22 carbon atoms, and R 75 , R 76 , R 77 , and R 78 The remainder of and R are independently selected from CH3, C2H5, C2H4OH, and mixtures thereof, and X is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH3OSO3, C2H5OSO3, and mixtures thereof.
[0035] Non-limiting examples of such mono-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants include behenyltrimethylammonium salt, stearyltrimethylammonium salt, cetyltrimethylammonium salt, and hydrogenated tallow alkyltrimethylammonium salt.
[0036] Di-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt When used, alternatively, the di-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt is combined with the mono-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt and / or the mono-long-chain alkylamine salt in a weight ratio of 1:1 to 1:5, or 1:1.2 to 1:5, or 1:1.5 to 1:4, considering the rheological stability and conditioning effect.
[0037] The di-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt may have two long-chain alkyl chains having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, or 16 to 24 carbon atoms, or 18 to 22 carbon atoms. Such a di-long-chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt has the formula (II):
[0038]
Chemical formula
[0039] Examples of the di-long-chain alkyl cationic surfactant include dialkyl(14-18)dimethylammonium chloride, ditallow alkyldimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyldimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, and dicetyldimethylammonium chloride.
[0040] Alkyl cationic neutralized amino acid ester A neutralized amino acid ester which is a reaction product of a neutral amino acid having a non-polar side chain and a long-chain aliphatic alcohol, and has the formula (III):
[0041]
Chemical formula
[0042] Exemplary preferred neutralized amino acid esters can be brassicyl L-isoleucine esilate (BLIE) or leucine isostearyl ester esilate (LIEE). Brassicyll L-isoleucine esilate (BLIE) can be obtained by esterification of brassica alcohol with L-isoleucine esilate. L-isoleucine esilate can be prepared by reacting the amine group on isoleucine with ethanesulfonic acid. Brassica alcohol is a fatty alcohol obtained by decomposing high-elaidic acid rapeseed oil obtained from plants of the genus Brassica and subsequently hydrogenating it. Brassica alcohol mainly consists of stearyl (C 18 ) alcohol, arachidyl (C 20 ) alcohol, and behenyl (C 22 ) alcohol, and contains small amounts of lower and higher alkyl chain length alcohols. In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention may include a neutralized amino acid ester selected from LIEE, BLIE, or a combination thereof. Some embodiments may include brassicyl valinate esilate (BVE).
[0043] High melting point aliphatic compound The composition of the present invention may contain a high melting point aliphatic compound. Considering the effects of the present invention, the high melting point aliphatic compound may be contained in the composition at a concentration of about 1.0 wt%, or about 1.5 wt%, or about 2.0 wt%, or about 2.5 wt%, or further about 3 wt% to about 30 wt%, or about 15 wt%, or about 8.0 wt%, or about 7 wt%.
[0044] Considering the stability of emulsions, especially gel networks, the high melting point aliphatic compound may have a melting point of 25°C or higher, or 40°C or higher, or 45°C or higher, or 47°C or higher, or 49°C or higher. Alternatively, such a melting point is up to about 90°C, or up to about 80°C, or up to about 75°C, or up to about 71°C considering easier manufacturing and easier emulsification. In the present invention, the high melting point aliphatic compound can be used as a single compound or as a blend or mixture of at least two high melting point aliphatic compounds. When used as such a blend or mixture, the above melting point means the melting point of the blend or mixture.
[0045] The high melting point aliphatic compound may be selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Further, those skilled in the art understand that depending on the number and position of double bonds, and the length and position of branches, certain compounds having specific essential carbon atoms may have a melting point below the preferred melting point in the present invention as described above. Such compounds with low melting points are not intended to be included in this section. Non-limiting examples of high melting point compounds can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
[0046] Among various high melting point aliphatic compounds, fatty alcohols are alternatively used in the compositions of the present invention. The fatty alcohols can have from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, or from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These aliphatic alcohols are saturated and can be straight-chain or branched-chain alcohols.
[0047] Examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56 °C), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58 - 59 °C), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71 °C), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting points. However, they often have a low melting point when supplied. The reason is that such supplied products are often mixtures of fatty alcohols having an alkyl chain length distribution where the alkyl main chain is a cetyl, stearyl, brassica, or behenyl group.
[0048] The fatty alcohol can be a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
[0049] Generally, in the mixture, the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol is, or about 1:9 to 9:1, or about 1:4 to about 4:1, or about 1:2.3 to about 1.5:1, or about 1:2 to about 1.2:1, or about 1:1.2 to about 1.2:1.
[0050] When using higher levels of total cationic surfactant and high melting point aliphatic compounds, considering that the mixture is too thick to spread without making it difficult to spread, or about 1:1 to about 4:1, or about 1:1 to about 2:1, or about 1.2:1 to about 2:1, the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol. This weight ratio can also condition the damaged parts of the hair better.
[0051] Aqueous carrier The composition of the present invention can include an aqueous carrier. The level and type of the carrier can be selected according to the compatibility with other components and other desired characteristics of the product.
[0052] The carrier can include water and an aqueous solution of a lower alkyl alcohol. The lower alkyl alcohol may be a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or ethanol and isopropanol.
[0053] Alternatively, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Alternatively, deionized water is used. Depending on the desired properties of the product, water from a natural source containing mineral cations can also be used. Generally, the composition of the present invention contains about 40% to about 99%, or about 50% to about 95%, or about 70% to about 93%, or about 80% to about 92% water.
[0054] Dicarboxylic acid amine salt The composition of the present invention may contain a dicarboxylic acid amine salt. The dicarboxylic acid amine salt can be included in the composition at a level from about 0.01% by weight, or from about 0.05% by weight, or from about 0.1% by weight, or from about 0.15% by weight, or further from about 0.2% by weight to about 5% by weight, or up to about 4% by weight, or up to about 3% by weight, or up to about 2% by weight, or up to about 1% by weight, considering the effects of the present invention.
[0055] The dicarboxylic acid amine salts useful herein are of formula (IV):
[0056]
Chemical formula
[0057]
Chemical formula
[0058]
Chemical formula
[0059] The present invention may include substances such as dicarboxylic acid amine salts shown in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,548,810(A) and 6,723,310(B2), which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0060] Preferred dicarboxylates can be dimer linoleic acid linoleamide propyldimethylamine available under the trade name Necon LO-80 from Alzo International Inc (Sayreville, NJ, USA), lauryl dimethylamine dimer linoleate available under the trade name Necon DLD from Alzo International Inc (Sayreville, NJ, USA), behenamide propyldimethylamine dimer linoleate available under the trade name Necon BD from Alzo International Inc (Sayreville, NJ, USA), and mixtures thereof.
[0061] Diester The composition of the present invention may contain a diester. Considering the effect of the present invention, the diester may be included in the composition at a level from about 0.01% by weight, or from about 0.03% by weight, or from about 0.05% by weight, or further from about 0.1% by weight to about 5% by weight, or to about 4% by weight, or to about 3% by weight, or to about 2% by weight, or to about 1% by weight, or further to about 0.5% by weight.
[0062] The diesters useful herein are of formula (VII):
[0063]
Chemical formula
[0064] The composition may contain a diester selected from the group consisting of diheptyl succinate, diphenyl succinate, didecyl succinate, dicapryl succinate, diheptyl suberate, diphenyl suberate, didecyl suberate, diheptyl sebacate, diphenyl sebacate, didecyl sebacate, diheptyl oxalate, diphenyl oxalate, didecyl oxalate, dioctyl adipate, ditetradecyl sebacate, bis(2-ethyl-1-hexyl) adipate, and mixtures thereof, and the viscosity of the diester is less than about 100 cps using the cSt viscosity method described herein.
[0065] Glycerol ester copolymer The composition of the present invention may contain a glycerol ester copolymer. Considering the effects of the present invention, the glycerol ester copolymer may be included in the composition at a level of from about 0.01% by weight, or from about 0.03% by weight, or from about 0.05% by weight, or even from about 0.1% by weight to about 5% by weight, or up to about 4% by weight, or up to about 3% by weight, or up to about 2% by weight, or up to about 1% by weight, or even up to about 0.5% by weight.
[0066] The glycerol ester copolymer useful herein is (i) at least one polyfunctional alcohol (preferably glycerol), (ii) at least one polyfunctional carboxylic acid, and (iii) a reaction product of at least one monofunctional carboxylic acid, The polyfunctional alcohol contains from about 2 to about 10 carbon atoms (preferably glycerin), the polyfunctional carboxylic acid contains from 1 to about 36 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid), the monofunctional carboxylic acid contains from 4 to about 24 carbon atoms (preferably caprylic acid), and the polyol polyester polymer has a dynamic viscosity of about 200 to about 5000 centipoises and a hydroxyl value of about 40 to about 300 mg KOH / g at 25°C.
[0067] In this specification, the viscosity of the glycerin ester copolymer was determined using ASTM D-2270, and the hydroxyl value was determined using the modified version of AOCS (American Oil Chemists Society, Champaign, Illinois, United States of America), official method number Cd-13-60.
[0068] Examples of the glycerin ester copolymer in the present invention include the composite polyol polyester polymer shown in U.S. Patent No. 7,317,068 (B2), which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0069] A preferred glycerin ester copolymer can be a capryloyl glycerin / sebacic acid copolymer which is a reaction product of glycerin, sebacic acid, and caprylic acid, and is available from Inolex (Philadelphia, PA USA) under the trade names Vellaplex™ MB, Lexfilm™ Sun Natural MB, Lipfeel™ MB, Lexfeel™ N5 MB, Lexfeel™ N20 MB, Lexfeel™ N50 MB, Lexfeel™ N100 MB, Lexfeel™ N200 MB, Lexfeel™ N350 MB, or mixtures thereof.
[0070] Vegetable oil or wax The composition of the present invention may further contain a vegetable oil or wax. The vegetable oil or wax is selected from the group consisting of natural oils derived from plants and / or vegetables, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, canola oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, pequi oil, argan oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, hemp seed oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, camellia oil, moringa oil, meadowfoam oil, cranberry oil, castor oil, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, Japanese apricot wax, orange wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.
[0071] Additional components The composition of the present invention may contain other additional components, which can be selected by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the final product, and are suitable for making the composition more aesthetically or aesthetically acceptable, or for giving the composition further advantages in use. Such other additional components are generally used individually at levels of about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of the composition, or up to about 5% by weight.
[0072] A variety of other additional ingredients can be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention. These include other conditioning agents such as aloe vera gel; the leaf juice of aloe barbadensis; the extract of ecklonia radiata; shea butter, safflower oil, cocoa butter, orange peel wax, olive oil, macadamia seed oil, oenothera biennis oil, crambe abyssinica seed oil, argan oil, camellia oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, meadowfoam seed oil, neem oil, linseed oil, castor oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, beeswax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, and soybean wax, natural oils and waxes; essential oils such as lime peel oil, lavender oil, peppermint oil, cedarwood oil, tea tree oil, ylang-ylang oil, and coensage oil that can be used in fragrances; hydrolyzed collagen of the trade name Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E of the trade name Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolyzed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; pH regulators (e.g., citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate); salts in general (e.g., potassium acetate and sodium chloride), colorants (e.g., either FD&C or D&C dyes); fragrances; and sequestering agents such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate; and ultraviolet and infrared blockers and absorbers such as octyl salicylate; antioxidants including rosemary, tocopherol, vitamin E, vitamin A, tea extracts, and hydroxyacetophenone (available as SymSave® H from Symrise®); amino acids including histidine, l-arginine, and others.
[0073] The conditioner composition may contain a preservative system of about 0.2% to about 1.5% by weight, or a preservative system of about 0.3% to about 1.25% by weight, or a preservative system of about 0.4% to about 1% by weight, or a preservative system of 0.5% to about 0.8% by weight, or a preservative system of about 0.6% to about 0.8% by weight.
[0074] The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.05% to about 0.8% by weight of a first preservative, such as sodium benzoate, or from 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight of sodium benzoate, or from about 0.2% to about 0.4% by weight of sodium benzoate. The conditioner composition may contain sodium benzoate, and may contain less than 2% sodium benzoate, or less than 1.5% sodium benzoate, or less than 1% sodium benzoate, or less than 0.8% sodium benzoate, or less than 0.6% by weight of sodium benzoate, or less than 0.5% by weight of sodium benzoate.
[0075] The preservative system may contain from about 20% to about 50% by weight of sodium benzoate of the preservative system, or from about 25% to about 50% by weight of sodium benzoate of the preservative system, from about 30% to about 50% by weight of sodium benzoate of the preservative system, from about 30% to about 40% by weight of sodium benzoate of the preservative system.
[0076] The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.3% to about 1.5% by weight, or from about 0.32% to about 1% by weight, or from about 0.33% to about 0.8% by weight, or from about 0.34% to about 0.6% by weight, or from about 0.35% to about 0.5% by weight, or from about 0.37% to about 0.45% by weight, or from about 0.38% to about 0.43% by weight of a second composition, such as glycol and / or glyceryl ester. If the conditioner composition contains too much glycol and / or glyceryl ester, the gel network structure may be disrupted and the conditioner will not have a rheology and / or performance acceptable to consumers.
[0077] The preservative system may contain a second preservative in an amount of about 50% to about 80% by weight of the preservative system, or about 50% to about 75% by weight of the preservative system, or about 50% to about 70% by weight of the preservative system, or about 50% to about 67% by weight of the preservative system.
[0078] The weight ratio of sodium benzoate to the second preservative can be from about 1:4 to about 1:1, or from about 1:3 to about 1:1, or from about 1:2 to about 1:1, and from about 1:1.7 to about 1:1.
[0079] The conditioner composition can have a shear stress of about 50 Pa to about 600 Pa, or about 75 Pa to about 575 Pa, or about 100 Pa to about 565 Pa, or about 105 Pa to about 505 Pa, or about 120 Pa to about 500 Pa, or about 125 Pa to about 450 Pa. The shear stress can be measured using the shear stress test method described below.
[0080] This conditioner composition can have a pH of less than 5. Alternatively, this conditioner composition can have a pH of about 2.5 to about 5, or about 3.5 to about 4.5. The pH can be measured using the pH test method described below.
[0081] Fragrance The conditioner composition disclosed herein can include a fragrance that can be referred to as a fragrance accord. The fragrance can be suitable for application to hair or skin.
[0082] The conditioner composition can contain the fragrance in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, or about 0.2% to about 3% by weight, or about 0.3% to about 4% by weight, or about 0.4% to about 2.5% by weight, or about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, or about 0.6% to about 1.5% by weight, or about 0.6% to about 1.2% by weight, and or about 0.7% to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0083] A wide variety of chemical substances for use in fragrances (i.e., perfumes), including substances such as aldehydes, ketones, and esters, are known. More generally, natural and animal-derived vegetable oils and exudates containing complex mixtures of various chemical constituents for use as fragrances are known. Fragrances can be relatively simple in their composition, containing a single chemical substance. Or they can contain highly refined complex mixtures of natural and synthetic chemical constituents that are all selected to provide any desired scent.
[0084] The fragrance raw materials of the compositions of the present invention can have a boiling point (BP) of about 500°C or lower, or about 400°C or lower, or about 350°C or lower. The BPs of many fragrance raw materials are shown in Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals), Steffen Arctander (1969). The ClogP value of the fragrance raw materials useful herein can be greater than 0.1, or greater than about 0.5, or greater than about 1.0, or greater than about 1.2.
[0085] Soluble anti-dandruff active substance The soluble anti-dandruff agent can be one substance or a mixture selected from the group consisting of azoles such as climbazole, ketoconazole, itraconazole, econazole, and elubiol; hydroxypyridones such as piroctone olamine, ciclopirox, liropirox, and MEA-hydroxyoctyloxypyridinone; keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid and other hydroxy acids; strobilurins such as azoxystrobin; and metal chelating agents such as 1,10-phenanthroline and hinokitiol.
[0086] The azole antibacterial agent can be an imidazole selected from the group consisting of benzimidazole, benzothiazole, bifonazole, butoconazole nitrate, clotrimazole, croconazole, econazole, eberconazole, econazole, elviol, fenticonazole, fluconazole, flutimazole, isoconazole, ketoconazole, lanoconazole, metronidazole, miconazole, neticonazole, omoconazole, oxiconazole nitrate, sertaconazole, salco nazole nitrate, tioconazole, thiazole, and mixtures thereof, or the azole antibacterial agent is a triazole selected from the group consisting of terconazole, itraconazole, and mixtures thereof. The azole antibacterial agent may be ketoconazole. The only antimicrobial agent may be ketoconazole.
[0087] The soluble anti-dandruff agent can be present in an amount of about 0.1% to 10%, in a further embodiment about 0.25% to 8%, and in a further embodiment about 0.5% to 6%. Alternatively, the soluble anti-dandruff agent can be present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 2%, or about 0.15% to about 1.5%, or about 0.2% to about 1%, or about 0.2% to about 0.75%, or about 0.25% to about 0.5%.
[0088] Particulate anti-dandruff agent The conditioner composition can also contain one or more particulate anti-dandruff agents. A safe and effective amount of an anti-dandruff active substance is used to control dandruff on the scalp. Examples of particulate anti-dandruff agents include sulfur, selenium sulfide, and pyrithione salts. Heavy metal salts of 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione and selenium disulfide are preferred. The particulate anti-dandruff agent is in crystalline form and is insoluble in the composition. Generally, the particulate anti-dandruff agent can be present at a level of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the composition, preferably about 0.3% to about 2% by weight. The specific amount used is not critical as long as a safe and effective amount is used to control dandruff when the composition is used for hair conditioning.
[0089] Product form The composition of the present invention may be in the form of a rinse-off product or a leave-on product, and can be formulated in a variety of product forms including, but not limited to, creams, gels, emulsions, mousses, and sprays.
[0090] The conditioning composition of the present invention is particularly suitable for a rinse-off hair conditioner. Alternatively, such a composition is (i) After shampooing the hair, applying an effective amount of the conditioning composition to condition the hair, and (ii) Then, rinsing the hair.
[0091] Test method Bacterial microorganism susceptibility test method Using the bacterial microorganism susceptibility test, evaluate the antibacterial effect of the preservative system in the beauty rinse-off conditioner.
[0092] The bacterial pool (equal - volume mixture) of the exposure organisms used in the test consists of standardized solutions of the following strains isolated from cosmetics: Escherichia coli (ATCC#8739), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC#6538), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC#9027), Burkholderia cepacia (ATCC#25416), and Klebsiella pneumoniae, Enterobacter gergoviae, and Serratia marcescens strains. The bacterial pool is prepared to have a concentration of approximately 6 - 8 log cfu / mL. To start the test, 0.1 mL of the bacterial pool is added to 10.0 g of the test conditioner. Next, the test conditioner is incubated at 20 - 25 °C for 2 days. After incubation, 1.0 g of an aliquot of the product is neutralized using modified Letheen broth containing 1.5% polysorbate 80 (commercially available as Tween® 80 from Croda™) and 1% lecithin to assist in the recovery / counting of microorganisms. Next, this sample at multiple dilution concentrations is transferred to Petri dishes containing modified Letheen agar containing 1.5% Tween® 80, and the agar plates are incubated at 30 - 35 °C for at least 2 days. Next, the bacterial colony - forming units (cfu) are counted, and the logarithmic reduction of bacteria from the starting log cfu / g attack level is reported.
[0093] A 1 log cfu / g reduction is equal to approximately 90% bacterial reduction. A 2 log cfu / g reduction is equal to approximately 99% bacterial reduction. A 3 log cfu / g reduction is equal to approximately 99.9% bacterial reduction. A 4 log cfu / g reduction is equal to approximately 99.99% bacterial reduction. The larger the reduction value in log cfu / g, the greater the antimicrobial robustness from the preservative system.
[0094] Fungal microorganism susceptibility test method: Use a fungal microorganism susceptibility test to evaluate the antibacterial effect of the preservative system in a hair rinse-off conditioner.
[0095] Standardized ATCC strains of the yeast Candida albicans (ATCC#10231) and the mold Aspergillus brasiliensis (frm. niger) (ATCC#16404) are mixed at a 1:1 (v:v) ratio, and this fungal pool is used as the inoculum material in the test. The concentration of the fungal pool is approximately 6 - 8 log cfu / mL. To start the test, 0.1 mL of the fungal pool is added to 10.0 g of the test conditioner. After incubating the inoculated sample at 20 - 25 °C for 2 days, 1.0 g aliquots of the product are neutralized using modified Letheen broth containing 1.5% Tween® 80 and 1% lecithin to assist in the recovery / counting of microorganisms. Next, samples at multiple dilution concentrations are transferred to Petri dishes containing modified Letheen agar with 1.5% Tween 80, and the agar plates are incubated at 20 - 25 °C for at least 5 days. At that point, fungal colony-forming units (cfu) are counted, and the logarithmic reduction of fungi from the starting log cfu / g attack level is calculated.
[0096] A 1 log cfu / g reduction is equivalent to approximately 90% fungal reduction. A 2 log cfu / g reduction is equivalent to approximately 99% fungal reduction. A 3 log cfu / / g reduction is equivalent to approximately 99.9% fungal reduction. A 4 log cfu / g reduction is equivalent to approximately 99.99% fungal reduction. A larger reduction value in log cfu / g indicates greater antifungal robustness from the preservative system.
[0097] Differential scanning calorimetry The melting transition behavior and temperature of the gel network can be obtained using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) according to the following method. Using a TA Instruments Q2000 DSC, place approximately 15 mg of the gel network premix or the final conditioner composition containing the gel network into a Tzero aluminum hermetic DSC pan. Place the sample in the instrument along with an empty reference pan. Analyze the sample using the following conditions / temperature program: nitrogen purge at a rate of 50.0 mL / min; equilibrate at 20.00 °C; sampling interval 0.10 s / pt; equilibrate at 5.00 °C; isothermal for 1.00 minute; heat to 80.00 °C at 5.00 °C / min. Analyze the obtained DSC data using TA Instruments Universal Analysis Software.
[0098] The use of DSC to measure the melting transition behavior and temperature of the gel network is further described in T. de Vringer et al., Colloid and Polymer Science, vol. 265, 448 - 457 (1987), and H. M. Ribeiro et al., Intl. J. of Cosmetic Science, vol. 26, 47 - 59 (2004).
[0099] pH method First, calibrate the Mettler Toledo Seven Compact pH meter. To do this, turn on the pH meter and wait for 30 seconds. Next, remove the electrode from the storage solution, rinse the electrode with distilled water, and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientific cleaning wipe such as Kimwipe (registered trademark). Immerse the electrode in the pH 4 buffer solution and press the calibration button. Wait until the blinking of the pH icon stops, and then press the calibration button again. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientific cleaning wipe. Next, immerse the electrode in the pH 7 buffer solution and press the calibration button again. Wait until the blinking of the pH icon stops, and then press the calibration button one more time. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientific cleaning wipe. Next, immerse the electrode in the pH 10 buffer solution and press the calibration button one more time. Wait until the blinking of the pH icon stops, and then press the measurement button. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe it with a scientific cleaning wipe.
[0100] Immerse the electrode in the test sample and press the read button. Wait until the blinking of the pH icon stops and record the value.
[0101] Viscosity from flow curve measurement Using a rheometer available from TA Instruments in the DHR-3 mode name, measure the viscosity of the hair conditioning agent under shear rate sweep conditions. This plate is called a Peltier plate. The temperature of the plate is maintained at 25°C. The geometric shape has a diameter of 40 mm, a cone angle of 2 degrees, and a gap of 55 μm. The shear rate ramp is 0.1 to 1100 1 / second. The viscosity is reported at shear rates of 2 s -1 and 950 s -1 The shear stress is reported at a shear rate of 950 s.
[0102] Shear stress Using a rheometer available from TA Instruments in the DHR-3 mode name, measure the shear stress under shear rate sweep conditions. This plate is called a Peltier plate. The temperature of the plate is maintained at 25°C. The geometric shape has a diameter of 40 mm, a cone angle of 2 degrees, and a gap of 55 μm. The shear rate ramp is 0.1 to 1100 1 / second. 950 s -1Measure the shear stress at a high shear rate.
[0103] X-ray diffraction method SAXS (Small Angle X-ray Scattering) was used to confirm the presence of the multi-lamellar phase, WAXS (Wide Angle X-ray Scattering) was used to distinguish between Lα (liquid) and Lβ (solid), and the crystal structure was used to verify the presence of the characteristic dispersed gel network phase of the personal conditioning composition.
[0104] d-spacing of the lamellar gel network (Lβ basal spacing): Small Angle X-ray Scattering (SAXS), which is used to resolve the periodic structure in the mesophase, is essentially an X-ray diffraction technique. It is used in conjunction with conventional Wide Angle X-ray Scattering (WAXS) to characterize aggregated structures such as micelles, gel networks, lamellae, hexagonal and cubic liquid crystals. Different mesophases showing periodic structures can be characterized by the relative positions (interplanar spacings) of the reflections derived from Bragg's equation (d = λ / 2 Sinθ), where d represents the interplanar spacing, λ represents the radiation wavelength, and θ represents the scattering (diffraction) angle.
[0105] The one-dimensional lamellar gel network phase is characterized by ratios of interplanar spacings d1 / d1, d1 / d2, d1 / d3, d1 / d4, d1 / d5 having values such as 1:2:3:4:5 in the SAXS region (long-range order), and one or two invariant reflections in the WAXS region (short-range) centered around approximately 3.5 and 4.5 Å over a broad halo background. Other mesophases (e.g., hexagonal or cubic phases) will characteristically have different interplanar spacing ratios.
[0106] SAXS data were collected using a Bruker NanoSTAR small angle X-ray scattering instrument. The microfocus Cu X-ray tube was operated at 50 kV and 0.60 mA with a 550 um ScanTex Pinhole. The distance from the sample to the detector was 107.39 cm, and the detector was a Vantec2K two-dimensional area detector. The sample was sealed in a capillary and analyzed under vacuum for an analysis time of 600 seconds.
[0107] The value of the d-spacing ((Lβ basal spacing) of the lamellar gel network reported here is obtained from the primary SAXS reflection at the d1 spacing.
[0108] Confirmation of the presence of the Lβ gel network by WAXS (combined with SAXS) Wide-angle data (WAXS) was collected using a Stoe STADI-MP diffractometer. The generator was operated at 40 kV / 40 mA to power a copper anode long fine focus copper X-ray tube. The diffractometer incorporated an incident beam curved germanium crystal monochromator, a standard incident beam slit system, and a Mythen PSD detector. Data was collected in transmission mode over the range of 0° to 50° 2θ with a step size of 3° 2θ and 15 s / step.
[0109] The WAXS pattern with reflections around 4.2 Å, in combination with the lamellar reflections seen in SAXS, indicates the presence of the Lβ gel network.
[0110] Particle size: optical microscopy imaging method The conditioner composition is examined under an Olympus BX61 microscope using an Olympus DP72 camera (ISO200, exposure 3 s) with a lamp intensity of 10 V and air (1.003) as the refractive index. Micrographs are taken with both 10x and 50x objective lenses. Brightfield and polarizing filters are used to examine the particle size of the non-silicone hair conditioning agent composition and the gel network formation of the conditioner composition. Olympus cellSense is used as the software for image analysis.
Examples
[0111] The following are non-limiting examples of the conditioner compositions described herein. It will be understood that other modifications of the invention within the skill of the art can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
[0112] All parts, percentages, and ratios in this specification are by weight, unless otherwise specified. Some components may be supplied from the supplier as a diluted solution. The amounts stated represent the weight % of the added materials, unless otherwise specified.
[0113] The examples were prepared as follows. Sodium benzoate and λ-glutamic acid were dissolved in water. The mixture was heated to 80 °C. Next, a cationic surfactant and a fatty alcohol (FAOH) were added to the mixture. Then, the mixture was cooled while the cationic surfactant and the fatty alcohol continued to dissolve. Next, when the temperature dropped below 45 °C, additional preservatives were added, followed by the addition of oil and fragrance. The composition was cooled to room temperature to produce a conditioner composition.
[0114] The non-silicone hair conditioning agent composition was incorporated into the conditioner composition after the formation of the L basal lamellar gel network.
[0115] [Table 1]
[0116] [Table 2]
[0117] [Table 3]
[0118] [Table 4]
[0119] [Table 5]
[0120] [Table 6]
[0121]
Table 7
[0122]
Table 8
[0123]
Table 9
[0124]
Table 10
[0125]
Table 11
[0126] The ratio, viscosity, and particle size of the non-silicone hair conditioning substances can be as follows. (b) is a dicarboxylic acid amine salt, (c) is a diester, (d) is a glycerin ester copolymer, and the ratio of (b):(c) can be from about 10:1 to about 1:10, and in some embodiments, from about 9:1 to about 1:7. The ratio of (d):(c) can be from about 10:1 to about 1:10, and in some embodiments, from about 9:1 to about 1:7. The ratio of (b):(d) can be from about 20:1 to about 1:20, and in some embodiments, from about 10:1 to about 1:10. In Comparative Example 18 of Table 8, the b:c ratio is 20, which is outside the ratio range of the present invention of 10:1 to 1:10. The ratios of the substances in Tables 9 and 10 are within the scope of the present invention.
[0127] The viscosity of the composition of the non-silicone hair conditioning substance (dicarboxylic acid amine salt + diester + glycerin ester copolymer) is less than 5000 at 950 1 / s (high shear rate), and in some embodiments, it can be less than 4500 at 950 1 / s. In Comparative Example 18 of Table 8, the viscosities of the three substances are greater than 5000 at 950 1 / s, but for the combinations of the present invention in Tables 9 and 10, the viscosity is less than 5000 at 950 1 / s.
[0128] The particle size of the non-silicone hair conditioning substance (dicarboxylic acid amine salt + diester + glycerin ester copolymer) can be less than 100 microns, and in some embodiments less than 50 microns, as measured by the optical microscopy imaging method described herein when uniformly suspended in the L basal lamellar gel network. Table 11 shows the particle sizes of Comparative Example 19 (greater than 100 microns) versus the particle sizes of Examples 41 - 46 of the present invention (less than 100 microns).
[0129] Preparation procedure: The composition is preferably prepared by the following method. Water is typically heated to at least about 70°C, preferably about 80°C to about 90°C. The cationic surfactant and the high melting point aliphatic compound are combined with the water to form a mixture. The temperature of the mixture is preferably maintained at a temperature higher than both the melting temperature of the cationic surfactant and the melting temperature of the high melting point aliphatic compound, and the entire mixture is homogenized. After mixing until no solids are observed, the mixture is gradually cooled to a temperature below 60°C, preferably below about 55°C (e.g., at a rate of about 1°C / min to about 5°C / min). During this slow cooling process, a significant increase in viscosity is observed between about 55°C and about 75°C. This indicates the formation of a gel matrix. The high molecular weight water-soluble cationic polymer can be added to the mixture at about 55°C with stirring or before cooling. Then, the additional components are combined with the gel matrix and cooled to room temperature.
[0130] The non-silicone hair conditioning agent composition is incorporated into the conditioner composition after the formation of the L basal lamellar gel network.
[0131] Combination A. A hair conditioner composition comprising: (a) an L basal lamellar gel network; (b) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt; (c) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a diester; (d) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a glycerin ester copolymer, and having a shear stress of about 40 Pa to about 800 Pa at 950 1 / s. A hair conditioner composition having a shear stress of about 40 Pa to about 800 Pa at 950 1 / s. B. The composition according to paragraph A, further comprising from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of a natural oil or wax selected from the group consisting of natural oils and waxes derived from plants and vegetables, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, canola oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, pequi oil, argan oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, hemp seed oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, camellia oil, moringa oil, meadowfoam oil, cranberry oil, castor oil, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, Japanese apricot wax, orange wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof. C. The L basal lamellar gel network according to paragraphs A and B, comprising (a) an aqueous carrier, (b) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a cationic surfactant, and (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of an aliphatic alcohol. D. The composition according to paragraphs A to C, wherein the L basal lamellar gel network has a d-spacing of about 5 nm to about 50 nm as measured according to the d-spacing (L basal spacing) of the lamellar gel network test method. E. The dicarboxylic acid amine salt is a reaction product of a dicarboxylic acid and an amine, a. The dicarboxylic acid is selected from C36 aliphatic alkyldicarboxylic acids, C36 monocyclic alkyldicarboxylic acids, dilinoleic acid, and mixtures thereof; b. The amine is selected from monolong-chain alkylamine, monolong-chain alkyldimethylamine, monolong-chain alkylamidamine, monolong-chain alkylamidopropyldimethylamine, lauryldimethylamine, hexadecyldimethylamine, linoleamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldiethylamine, brassicamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidoethyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and / or diethylaminoethyl stearamide, and is a composition described in paragraphs A to D. F. The dicarboxylic acid amine salt is selected from dimer dilinoleic acid linoleamidopropyldimethylamine, dimer dilinoleic acid behenamidopropyldimethylamine, dimer dilinoleic acid lauryldimethylamine, dimer dilinoleic acid hexadecyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and is a composition described in paragraphs A to E. G. The diester has the formula (VII):
[0132]
Chemical formula
Claims
1. A hair conditioner composition comprising: (a) an L-base lamellar gel network; (b) 0.01% to 5% by weight of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt; (c) 0.01% to 5% by weight of a diester; (d) 0.01% to 5% by weight of a glycerin ester copolymer, wherein the composition has a shear stress of 40 Pa to 800 Pa at 950 1 / s, the hair conditioner composition.
2. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of a natural oil or wax selected from the group consisting of natural oils and waxes derived from plants and vegetables, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, canola oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, pequi oil, argan oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, hemp seed oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, camellia oil, moringa oil, meadowfoam oil, cranberry oil, castor oil, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, Japanese apricot wax, orange wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the L-base lamellar gel network comprises (a) an aqueous carrier, (b) 0.1% to 20% by weight of a cationic surfactant, and (c) 0.1% to 20% by weight of an aliphatic alcohol.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the L-base lamellar gel network has a d-spacing of 5 nm to 50 nm as measured according to the d-spacing (L-base spacing) of the lamellar gel network test method.
5. The dicarboxylic acid amine salt is the composition according to claim 1, selected from dimerdilinoleic acid linoleamide propyldimethylamine, dimerdilinoleic acid behenamide propyldimethylamine, dimerdilinoleic acid lauryldimethylamine, dimerdilinoleic acid hexadecyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
6. The diester is the composition according to claim 1, selected from the group consisting of diheptyl succinate, diphenyl succinate, didecyl succinate, dicapryl succinate, diheptyl suberate, diphenyl suberate, didecyl suberate, diheptyl sebacate, diphenyl sebacate, didecyl sebacate, diheptyl oxalate, diphenyl oxalate, didecyl oxalate, dioctyl adipate, ditetradecyl sebacate, bis(2-butyl-1-hexyl) adipate, and mixtures thereof.
7. The glycerin ester copolymer is the composition according to claim 1, which is a reaction product of (a) a polyfunctional alcohol, (b) a polyfunctional carboxylic acid, and (c) a monocarboxylic acid.
8. The polyfunctional alcohol is the composition according to claim 7, selected from the group consisting of glycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, tripentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, butylethylpropanediol, and derivatives and combinations thereof.
9. The polyfunctional carboxylic acid is the composition according to claim 7, selected from the group consisting of carbonic acid, hexanedioic acid, dimer acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and derivatives and combinations thereof.
10. The monocarboxylic acid is selected from the group consisting of isobutyric acid, benzoic nonanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, decanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, 2-methylbutyric acid, isopentanoic acid, pentanoic acid, 2-methylpentanoic acid, 2-methylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, undecylenic acid, isolauric acid, isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, behenic acid, and derivatives and combinations thereof, and the composition according to claim 7.
11. The glycerin ester copolymer is a reaction product of (a) glycerin, (b) sebacic acid, and (c) caprylic acid, and the composition according to claim 1.
12. A method for conditioning hair, which uses the hair conditioner composition according to claim 1.
13. The viscosity of the mixture of (b), (c), and (d) is less than 5000 at 950 1 / s, and the composition according to claim 1.
14. The ratio of (b):(c) is 10:1 to 1:10, the ratio of (d):(c) is 10:1 to 1:10, and the ratio of (b):(d) is 20:1 to 1:20, and the composition according to claim 1.
15. The particle size of the mixture of (b), (c), and (d) is less than 100 microns when suspended in the L-base lamellar gel network, and the composition according to claim 1.
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