Make-up and / or care compositions containing volatile solvents, specific polyesters, alkylcelluloses and dyes, and methods of using same

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising: A) at least one volatile solvent; B) the following components (i), (ii), and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one acid dimer; and (iii) at least one polyester that is the product of the reaction of at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii), and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol acid dimer, and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol fatty monoacid; C) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose, whose alkyl group is C2 to C3; D) at least one dye. The invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, which consists in applying said composition.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips, comprising a volatile solvent, a specific polyester, an alkylcellulose and a dye, and also a makeup and / or care method for human keratinous materials using it. [Background technology]

[0002] Many cosmetic makeup compositions containing dyes, such as foundations, correctors, lipsticks, or lip glosses, have been developed to improve staying power and transfer resistance. Specifically, poor staying power can be reflected in, among other things, the persistence (change or fading) of the color of the deposit and / or insufficient persistence of gloss. This, in turn, can force users to reapply makeup more regularly than desired, which can be considered time-consuming.

[0003] Improved staying power is achieved by compositions that form a film after application. Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents that evaporate upon contact with the skin or lips, leaving behind a layer containing wax and / or film-forming polymer, pigments, and fillers. The film-forming polymer is a synthetic polymer, usually a silicone or acrylic polymer. Thus, mention may be made of silicone resins, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or resins containing silicone polymers, such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer—INCI name). Acrylic polymers, such as acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer, are also used. However, these compositions are often considered less pleasant or even unpleasant from a consumer sensory point of view.

[0004] Furthermore, in recent years, consumers have become more demanding regarding the composition of their cosmetic products, in particular seeking to use products with a higher content of natural or naturally occurring ingredients, ingredients whose environmental impact is minimized, and / or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.

[0005] However, there remains a difficulty in reconciling these recent trends with the fact that consumers, however, are unwilling to give up the very high performance they have become accustomed to with the products they already use.

[0006] In prior art make-up compositions it has already been proposed to use liquid or pasty polyesters to obtain staying power properties.

[0007] Mention may be made, inter alia, of patent documents 1, 2, 3 and 4, which describe polyesters of dilinoleic diacid and dilinoleyl diol dimer, which have the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as those sold by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0008] In order to obtain staying power properties in makeup compositions, it has also been proposed in patent document 5 to use polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and of diols; in particular, polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and of diols are polyesters of dilinoleic acid and of 1,4-butanediol, such as the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer).

[0009] The use of polyesters of hydroxylated fatty acid triglycerides and of saturated fatty diacids to impart staying power to makeup compositions is also known practice, as described, inter alia, in Patent Documents 6, 7 and 8. Examples of polyesters include those with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, such as the product sold by Croda under the name Crodabond CSA®, and also hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, with the INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, such as the products sold by Takakyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd. under the names Risocast-DA-L® and Risocast DA-H®.

[0010] However, it has been found that liquid makeup compositions containing the aforementioned polyesters are not entirely satisfactory and can lead to poor film adhesion and makeup removal results. These polyesters can cause dewetting during application or a film that stretches between the two lips after the lips are pressed together (blotting). Finally, it can sometimes be observed that the film breaks into several pieces during makeup removal. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0011] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2002-128623 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2002-128628 [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2002-128629 [Patent Document 4] European Patent No. 1 604 634 [Patent Document 5] French Patent No. 2931673 [Patent Document 6] French Patent No. 2 931 069 [Patent Document 7] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2005-325079 [Patent Document 8] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2006-28129 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0012] There remains a need to find new compositions for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips based on suitable polyesters, which lead to the production of glossy deposits with good staying power and good transfer-resistant properties of the deposits, without the drawbacks mentioned above. [Means for solving the problem]

[0013] Surprisingly, these objects are provided by a composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, which comprises, in particular, in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one volatile solvent; B) the following components (i), (ii), and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one acid dimer; and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; at least one polyester which is the product of the reaction of (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mol acid dimer and 0.1 to 2.0 mol fatty monoacid; C) at least one alkyl cellulose, preferably ethyl cellulose, whose alkyl group is C2 to C3; D) at least one dye; It has been discovered that this can be achieved with a composition comprising:

[0014] A subject of the present invention is also a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting in applying a composition as previously described.

[0015] The composition according to the present invention has the advantage of being stable for a long time and easy to apply, without dewetting when applied or blotting.Furthermore, the deposit obtained is precise, homogeneous, does not run, and has little or no stickiness.The deposit does not transfer to wrinkles and fine lines, especially around the lips.

[0016] The resulting deposit is shiny and has improved staying power. It is also comfortable and does not leave a dry or tight feeling. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] definition Since the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, this means that the composition comprises a physiologically acceptable medium that is particularly suited to the type of substrate onto which the composition is to be applied and also to the form in which the composition is packaged.

[0018] The term "physiologically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and / or lips, having a pleasant color, odor and feel, and not causing any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tightness) that would likely deter the consumer from using the composition.

[0019] The term "liquid composition" refers to the following characteristics: i) It is at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 5 Pa) and flows under its own mass; ii) it is not solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and a viscosity or consistency characterized by its hardness can be measured for it; iii) It does not have any particular shape, such as can be obtained by hot casting in a mold or container of a given shape The term "composition" refers to any composition having at least one of the following:

[0020] Such compositions may therefore be found inter alia in fluid, cream, pasty or gel form.

[0021] The term "polyester" refers to any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of a polycarboxylic acid with an alcohol or polyol. The polymer backbone contains repeating ester functional groups. The ester functional group represents a characteristic group formed from an atom simultaneously bonded to an oxygen atom and to an alkoxy group via a double bond. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic acid ester, and its general formula is R-COO-R'.

[0022] The term "polyglycerol-3" refers to triglycerol alone or to a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol, preferably with triglycerol predominating in said mixture.

[0023] Protocol for viscosity measurement: Viscosity measurements are generally made at 25°C using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2, 3 or 4 spindle, and measurements are taken after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle through the composition at a shear rate of 200 rpm, after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spindle rotation speed is observed.

[0024] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may have a viscosity at 25°C of 0.1 to 25 Pa.s, preferably 0.2 to 20 Pa.s.

[0025] Preferably, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention at 25° C. may be 0.2 to 10 Pa.s. In particular, the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention at 25° C. may be 0.1 Pa.s (spindle 2) to 25 Pa.s (spindle 4), preferably 0.2 Pa.s (spindle 2) to 20 Pa.s (spindle 4), and even better 0.2 Pa.s (spindle 2) to 10 Pa.s (spindle 4).

[0026] Volatile solvents The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile solvent.

[0027] In the context of the present invention, the term "volatile solvent" refers to a solvent having a vapor pressure at 20°C of more than 2.66 Pa, preferably between 2.66 and 40 000 Pa, in particular less than or equal to 27 000 Pa, at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 5 This refers to a compound that is liquid at 2000kJ / cm² (Pa).

[0028] In volatile solvents, - monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms; volatile oils chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, or mixtures thereof; - A mixture of these may be mentioned.

[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile solvent is - monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms; - non-polar hydrocarbon volatile oils or their mixtures; - A mixture of these is selected from.

[0030] C2-C6 monoalcohols The monoalcohols according to the invention preferably contain from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] The monoalcohol can be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, where Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0032] Monoalcohols that may be mentioned include ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, more particularly ethanol.

[0033] According to an advantageous embodiment, the amount of monoalcohol ranges from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably from 4% to 50% by weight and even more preferentially from 6% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] Volatile oils The term "oil" means any lipophilic compound that is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0035] The volatile oil is selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to any oil that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, in particular in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular in the range of 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, more in particular in the range of 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0037] The term "non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0038] The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one Si-O group, more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0039] The non-polar hydrocarbon-based volatile oils that may be used in connection with the present invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, preferably saturated, oils containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may therefore be chosen from volatile linear alkanes containing from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0041] Examples of linear alkanes, in particular C6-C14 alkanes, include n-hexane (C6), n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12) and n-tridecane (C13), as well as mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, inter alia, of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97® and Parafol 14-97®, respectively, as well as mixtures thereof. According to another embodiment, mixtures of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane may be used, in particular the dodecane / tetradecane mixture sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight 1214®. According to yet another embodiment, mixtures of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes with the INCI name C9-12 Alkane may also be used, such as the product sold by Biosynthis under the trademark Vegelight Silk®. According to yet another embodiment, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis may also be used, as well as the product sold by BASF under the trademark Cetiol Ultimate®.

[0042] Mention may also be made of the alkanes (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon) described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068 371 or WO 2008 / 155 059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil.

[0043] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from branched C8 to C16 alkanes, and mention may be made in particular of isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) of petroleum origin, such as, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.

[0044] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from mixtures of branched C8 to C16 alkanes, more particularly isododecane, volatile linear C9 to C12 alkanes and mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and with n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Examples of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention include volatile silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, which optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms.Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention include, among others, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Preferably, the volatile oil is selected from non-polar volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular from branched C8 to C16 alkanes, more particularly from isododecane, mixtures of volatile linear C9 to C12 alkanes, and mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Volatile oils are preferably present in the composition of the invention in a content of less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0048] According to a preferential form of the invention, the mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of monoalcohol is less than 3.5, and even more preferentially less than 1.5.

[0049] water The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise water.

[0050] Water suitable for use in the present invention may be demineralized water, floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and / or spring water.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, when the composition according to the invention comprises water, its content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Polyglycerol / acid dimer / monoacid polyester The composition according to the present invention comprises the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one acid dimer; and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; wherein the reacted components (i), (ii), and (iii) are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer, and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acid mono-acid. Contains:

[0053] The polyesters of the present invention and their synthesis are described in patent applications US 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930.

[0054] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of polyester active material ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is substantially or entirely the product of a non-sequential reaction.

[0056] The term "substantially non-sequential reaction product" means a product obtained by the substantially non-sequential reaction of reactive components (i)-(iii).

[0057] The term "completely non-sequential reaction of reactive components (i)-(iii)" means that the total content of each of the reacted reagents (i)-(iii) is added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins.

[0058] In one embodiment of the invention, the total content of each of the reacted reagents (i)-(iii) is added to the reaction vessel prior to initiating the reaction, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential and the polymer is the product of the completely non-sequential reaction of components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) is added to the reaction vessel prior to initiating the reaction.

[0059] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all of the reagents into a reaction vessel and then inducing the completely random addition of the acid dimer and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.

[0060] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH, where Gly represents the glycerol residue after removal of the two hydroxyl groups.

[0061] Polyglycerol-3 The polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol also includes polyglycerols which may be any product of the oligocondensation of glycerol, preferably having the following formula (I): corresponds to H[-O-Gly-]n-OH, where each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0062] Generally, the majority of GIy groups are of the formula -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues containing etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered within the scope of "GIy" and may therefore also be present.

[0063] Examples of polyglycerol-3 include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) where n has a value in particular of 2 to 7, more in particular of 2 to 5, especially 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols within these ranges.

[0064] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include mixtures of polyglycerols having the following distribution, where all weight percentages are based on the total content of polyglycerol-3 in the form of the mixture: glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, most preferably 0% to 15% by weight; diglycerol: 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 35% by weight, most preferably 20% to 32% by weight; - triglycerol: 10% to 65% by weight, preferably 15% to 60% by weight, most preferably 18% to 55% by weight; - tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, most preferably 8% to 20% by weight; - pentaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight; hexaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight; heptaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight; - octaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight; nonaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, most preferably 0% to 2% by weight; Decaglycerol: 0% to 5% by mass, preferably 0% to 3% by mass, most preferably 0% to 2% by mass.

[0065] In one embodiment, the polyglycerol-3 has the following distribution of polyglycerols: Glycerol: 0% to 30% by mass; Diglycerol: 15% to 40% by mass; Triglycerol: 10% by mass to 55% by mass; Tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by mass; Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0% to 15% by weight Including, All weight percentages are based on the total content of polyglycerol-3 in the form of the mixture.

[0066] In one embodiment, the polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 40%, or at least 45%, or at least 50% by weight of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol, based on the total weight of the polyglycerol-3.

[0067] In one embodiment, the polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight, diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight, triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight, tetraglycerol; all weight percentages being based on the total content of polyglycerol-3 in the form of the mixture.

[0068] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0069] Analysis of such polyglycerol-3 compositions can be performed to determine their median or "average" polyglycerol number. The above examples of polyglycerols having narrow and broad distributions can also be referred to as polyglycerol-3, since it is the material closest to the mean and / or median integer.

[0070] acid dimer The acid dimers can be any dicarboxylic acid containing at least four carbon atoms. They can be straight or branched chain, such as dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid, or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0071] Fatty acid dimers are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by catalytic dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0072] Regarding the preparation and use of acid dimers and their physical and chemical properties, reference may be made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and Physical Properties, Reactions and Applications", Ed. E. C. Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0073] The dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, trifunctional and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0074] Preferred acid dimers are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce unsaturated C18 fatty monoacids. Starting materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources, such as flaxseed, soybean, pumpkin, and walnut, can also be used. The target monoacids used in the reaction are rich in the forms of oleic acid and linoleic acid, as listed in the list of contained fatty acids below. Dimerization primarily results in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, although trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored in the form of a reaction product mixture, or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a predominance of acid dimers (C36 diacids) (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight), but also produces C54 acid trimers (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0075] In one case, a standard acid dimer, Pripol 1025®, commercially available from Croda, containing 72% by weight of the acid dimer and 19% by weight of the acid trimer, is used.

[0076] In another case, a standard hydrogenated acid dimer from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, containing 87% by weight of acid dimer and 10% by weight of acid trimer, is used. In both cases, the polymers described are characterized by higher molecular weight, greater hydrophobicity, and higher viscosity than can be provided by lower molecular weight pure diacids. The presence of the acid trimer further improves the molecular weight and performance qualities of these polymers.

[0077] In one embodiment, the copolymers of the present invention are prepared from at least one hydrogenated acid dimer.

[0078] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated acid dimer comprising a hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acid, the hydrogenated acid dimer being obtained by dimerization of an unsaturated C18 fatty acid and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0079] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated acid dimer contains an acid trimer content in the range of about 5% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the hydrogenated acid dimer.

[0080] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated acid dimer contains predominantly (at least 60% by weight, more preferentially at least 75% by weight, but not more than 95% by weight, or even better not more than 90% by weight, or even better not more than 85% by weight) hydrogenated acid dimer (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 acid trimer (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight).

[0081] C8~C30 fatty monoacids C8-C30 fatty monoacids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, hydrolyzed sunflower oil, etc., which contain both lower and higher MW chains. Useful fatty monoacids can be straight-chain, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic materials with the acidity provided by the carboxylic acid fraction.

[0082] Acids that are suitable for use in the present invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecylic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0083] A comparison of stearic acid and isostearic acid shows that branching leads to a higher melting point and lower viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid compared to the solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful for handling the starting material and also for allowing the esters produced with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along a linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by the action of microorganisms. Isostearic acid is available as a reaction by-product in the production of the above-mentioned acid dimers.

[0084] Another way to obtain a liquid product consists in using unsaturated, linear and branched fatty monoacids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linoleelaidic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), γ-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paulic acid (C20:1), gondoic acid (C20:1), dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6), and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, this designation means that the carbon chain is X carbon atoms in length and that there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0085] In one embodiment, isostearic acid may be preferred.

[0086] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention comprises the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 containing at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated acid dimer containing in each case at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, based on the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; (iii) isostearic acid and is a product of a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction of

[0087] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all of the reagents into a reaction vessel, followed by directing the completely random addition of the acid dimer and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.

[0088] In one embodiment, it is preferred to have a total degree of esterification of available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments with acid dimer alone (esterification with acid dimer) of 20% to 40%. Even more importantly, the degree of esterification with end cap units (esterification with mono-acids), also defined herein, is important to maintain a degree of esterification with mono-acids of 4% to 40%.

[0089] It is preferred to have 20% to 30% esterification with acid dimers and 8% to 27% esterification with monoacids, with a total esterification of 28% to 57%.

[0090] Even more preferred is 20% to 28% esterification with acid dimers and 13% to 20% esterification with monoacids, with a total esterification of 33% to 48%.

[0091] Even more preferred is 20% to 40% esterification with hydrogenated acid dimer and 4% to 40% esterification with monoacid, with a total esterification of 24% to 74%.

[0092] Even more preferred is 20% to 30% esterification with hydrogenated acid dimer and 8% to 27% esterification with monoacid, with a total esterification of 28% to 57%.

[0093] Even more preferred is about 20% esterification with hydrogenated acid dimer and about 20% esterification with monoacid, with a total esterification of about 40%.

[0094] Most preferably, it has about 27% esterification with hydrogenated acid dimer and about 13% esterification with monoacid, with still more preferred having about 40% total esterification.

[0095] In one embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol acid dimer and 0.2 to 1.7 mol fatty acid.

[0096] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol acid dimer and 0.4 to 1.35 mol isostearic acid.

[0097] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol acid dimer and 0.65 to 1 mol isostearic acid.

[0098] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.2 to 1.7 mol isostearic acid.

[0099] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.4 to 1.35 mol isostearic acid.

[0100] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol hydrogenated acid dimer and 0.65 to 1 mol isostearic acid.

[0101] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.2 to 1.7 mol isostearic acid.

[0102] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol hydrogenated acid dimer, and 0.4 to 1.35 mol isostearic acid.

[0103] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol hydrogenated acid dimer and 0.65 to 1 mol isostearic acid.

[0104] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mol hydrogenated C36 acid dimer, and 0.67 mol isostearic acid.

[0105] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol hydrogenated C36 acid dimer and 1 mol isostearic acid.

[0106] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid terminations and by balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and acid dimer, it is also possible to control the degree of acid dimer-polyglycerol extension and termination, for example, cross-linking with acid trimer leads to much higher viscosity.

[0107] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be greater than 50 000 mPa.s and less than 5 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0108] In one preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is greater than 75 000 mPa.s and less than 2 500 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0109] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is greater than 100 000 mPa.s and less than 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0110] In the most preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is greater than 1 000 000 mPa.s and less than 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0111] Viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer manufactured by Anton Paar Inc. Temperature and shear rate scans are performed using twin rough or smooth plates, 50 mm in diameter, covered with the polymer sample and adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm. The polyesters of the present invention have Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polymers described herein demonstrate a decrease in viscosity with temperature. Therefore, viscosity measurements are reported at precisely controlled temperatures and generally at a shear rate of 1. Values ​​are reported in mPa.s.

[0112] The polyesters of the present invention are characterized by a weight average molecular weight of greater than 2500 Da and less than 1 000 000 Da, as determined by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0113] The GPC column used for these studies consisted of Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous tetrahydrofuran (THF) phase was used, injected at 0.35 ml / min, and the column oven was maintained at 40 °C; 50 μL injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended to be monodisperse. Narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared as the mobile phase, with maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da, 560,000 Da, 65,500 Da, 28,500 Da, 10,100 Da, 1,680 Da, 580 Da, and 208 Da. Using standard methodology, mass-average and number-average molecular weights were calculated automatically with standard GPC software.

[0114] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight average molecular weight, as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards, of greater than 4000 Da and less than 250 000 Da. In a most preferred embodiment, the described polymers have a weight average molecular weight, as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards, of greater than 5000 Da and less than 150 000 Da.

[0115] In yet another embodiment, the polyesters of the present invention have a combination of a weight average molecular weight of greater than 5000 Da and less than 150 000 Da, and a viscosity at 25°C of greater than 100 000 mPa s and less than 2 000 000 mPa s, as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0116] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention comprises the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 containing at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated acid dimer containing in each case at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, based on the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; (iii) isostearic acid and wherein the polymer has a combination of a weight average molecular weight of greater than 5000 Da and less than 15 000 Da, and a viscosity of the pure polymer of greater than 100 000 mPa.s and less than 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C, as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards; and the copolymer is also characterized by about 40% total esterification, about 27% esterification with hydrogenated acid dimer, and about 13% esterification with monoacid.

[0117] Considering that in practice, feedstocks contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of acid dimer and trimer contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid fractions as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR, and liquid chromatography. The above esterification ranges are based on idealized structures of polyglycerol-3 and C36 acid dimer. Therefore, the actual ranges may vary slightly from the values ​​shown above and can be calculated based on these analytical values.

[0118] It is more practical to define the degree of polymerization in terms of the final acid number, which can be reliably calculated using the actual acid numbers determined by the raw materials used in light of the distribution of polyglycerol, mono-acid and poly-acid fractions present.

[0119] For example, the initial total acid number ("AV," generally defined as mg KOH / g total reagents) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the acid dimer and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for the preferred embodiment containing 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol hydrogenated C36 acid dimer, and 1 mol isostearic acid. All of the above preferred ratio embodiments have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When AV units decrease during the polymerization reaction, this ratio gives the percentage conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fraction to the final residual acid fraction.

[0120] Therefore, the completeness of the reaction is defined as (1-final AV) / initial AV.

[0121] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the present invention have a final acid number of from 0.1 to less than 25 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0122] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the present invention have a final acid number of from 0.1 to less than 10 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0123] In the most preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the present invention have a final acid number of from 0.1 to less than 5 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0124] Since the degree of reaction completion is defined by the equation 1-final AV / initial AV, the degree of reaction completion of such a mixture to give the final polymer is greater than 80%.

[0125] In a preferred embodiment, the reaction of such a mixture to give the final polymer is greater than 90% complete.

[0126] In the most preferred embodiment, the reaction of such mixtures to give the final polymer is greater than 95% complete.

[0127] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is the product of the reaction of polyglycerol-3, hydrogenated C36 acid dimer, and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (Copolymer) of U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2021 / 0259945.

[0128] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: a)See below: (i) polyglycerol-3; and (ii) hydrogenated C36 acid dimer; and (iii) a polyester obtained by the reaction of isostearic acid (the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) are in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acid); b) Caprylic / capric triglyceride and An oily solution comprising: The mixture comprises an oily solution having the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0129] Such an oily solution is sold under the name SolAmaze Natural® by the company Nouryon, which contains, as active materials, 60% by weight of polyester and 40% by weight of caprylic / capric triglyceride, based on the total weight of the oily solution. It is described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oil mixture) of the published US patent application 2021 / 0259945.

[0130] Alkyl cellulose The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one alkyl cellulose.

[0131] Ethyl cellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether containing chains formed from β-anhydroglucose units linked together through acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, and all or some of these hydroxyl groups can be substituted by the following reaction: RONa + R'Cl → ROR' + NaCl (wherein R represents a cellulose group and R' represents an ethyl group) can react according to

[0132] A total substitution of three hydroxyl groups leads to a degree of substitution of 3 for each anhydroglucose unit, in other words an alkoxy group content of 54.88%.

[0133] The ethylcellulose polymers used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferentially polymers having a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words containing an ethoxy group content ranging from 44% to 50%.

[0134] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly in powder form.

[0135] It is sold, for example, by Dow Chemicals under the trade name Ethocel Standard, inter alia as Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, e.g. Particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention are those sold by Ashland, Inc. under the tradenames Aqualon EC type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100.

[0136] Advantageously, the content of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, ranges from 1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] non-volatile oil The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based or silicone non-volatile oil.

[0138] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to oils containing primarily carbon and hydrogen atoms and, optionally, one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxyl functional groups. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0139] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0140] According to a preferential embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oils to the amount of polyester being preferably less than 7.

[0141] According to a first variant, the composition according to the invention is prepared at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10 5 The composition comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that is liquid at room temperature (°C).

[0142] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure is not zero but is less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric flow method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (standard OCDE 104).

[0143] Polar and non-polar hydrocarbon oils Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, polar hydrocarbon-based oils or non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils different from the polyester B) may be suitable for use.

[0144] Polar hydrocarbon oil The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means that the oil contains, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen atom, and therefore contains at least one hydroxyl, ester, ether and / or carboxyl functional group.

[0145] The composition according to the invention therefore more particularly comprises: * Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 10 ~C 26Fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, preferably branched if they contain at least 16 carbon atoms. More particularly, the fatty alcohols contain from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; * ethers of formula ROR' or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based groups containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C 16 represents the group); * Hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; * optionally hydroxylated ester oils containing 1 to 4 ester groups, which may be linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, at least one of which contains at least 8 carbon atoms; * liquid polyesters derived from the reaction of monounsaturated or polyunsaturated acid dimers, the fatty acids containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; * and mixtures thereof The composition may comprise at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil selected from:

[0146] Preferably, the second oil is lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably octyldodecanol; - Dicaprylyl ether; - Dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and C 14 ~C 15 Dialkyl carbonates; castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, prakash oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, black currant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof; - 2-Ethylhexyl Palmitate, 2-Octyldecyl Palmitate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, 2-Octyldodecyl Stearate, Butyl Stearate, 2-Octyldodecyl Erucate, Benzoic Acid (C 12 ~C 15 ) Alkyl, 2-Octyldodecyl Benzoate, Isocetyl Isostearate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Hexyl Laurate, 2-Hexyldecyl Laurate, Isopropyl Myristate, 2-Octyldodecyl Myristate, Diisostearyl Malate, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate, Glyceryl Tris(2-Decyltetradecanoate), Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride, C 18~36 Acid triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate); isotearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate; - polyesters with the following INCI names: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, dimer dilinoleyl dilinoleate; - and mixtures thereof is selected from.

[0147] Non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil Preferably, the non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is a straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon of mineral, vegetable, or synthetic origin, such as - liquid paraffin, - Squalane, especially of plant origin, - Isoeicosan, - saturated straight chain hydrocarbons, more particularly C 15 ~C 28 such as mixtures whose INCI names are, for example: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L15 and L19 sold by SEPPIC, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example the products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by NOF Corporation; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, such as the non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by Ineos and Dekanex by IMCD; - and mixtures thereof may be selected from:

[0148] Non-volatile silicone oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one phenylsilicone non-volatile oil, optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, or at least one non-phenylsilicone non-volatile oil.

[0149] The term "phenyl(ized)" defines that the oil contains at least one phenyl group within its structure.

[0150] The term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom bears two methyl groups, which are not located at one or both ends of the molecule. It has the following formula: It can be represented as -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0151] Preferably, the silicone does not contain C2-C3 alkylene oxide groups or glycerolated groups.

[0152] Non-volatile phenylated oils containing at least one dimethicone fragment may include oils with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone. Diphenyl dimethicone is sold, inter alia, by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, and KF-50-100CS. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone is sold, for example, by Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20.

[0153] Among the non-volatile phenylsilicone oils that do not contain dimethicone fragments, mention may be made of compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes (alone or in mixtures). As non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils that are suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of those sold by Wacker in the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning in the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. in the KF-96 A range.

[0154] Representative examples of nonvolatile non-phenyl silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxane and alkyldimethicone. It should be noted that the term "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). Preferably, these nonvolatile non-phenyl silicone oils are polydimethylsiloxane and at least one C2-C alkyldimethicone. 24 Selected from alkyl dimethicones containing alkyl groups, and mixtures thereof.Accordingly, these oils can be selected from dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone and stearyl dimethicone, either alone or as a mixture.Suitable non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils for use can include those sold by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning under the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the KF-96 A range.Alkyl dimethicones can be, for example, those sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade names Abil Wax 9800 and Abil Wax 9801, or by Dow Corning under the trade names Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid and Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax, or mixtures thereof.

[0155] Preferably, the non-volatile oil is selected from polar hydrocarbon-based oils other than polyester B), in particular from ester oils. According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil selected from fatty alcohols, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, and optionally hydroxylated ester oils, which are linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and which contain 1 to 4 ester functional groups, at least one of which contains at least 8 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is selected from triglycerides of fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from caprylic / capric triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / capric triglyceride).

[0156] Whatever the composition contains, the content of non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] dye The composition according to the invention comprises at least one dye.

[0158] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyes may be chosen from powder dyes, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0159] powder dye The powdered dyes may be selected from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.

[0160] The term "pigments" means white or colored, inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous media and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.

[0161] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

[0162] The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopaedia. Among the inorganic pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders such as aluminum and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0163] The size of the pigments useful in connection with the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably between 200 nm and 5 μm, and more preferentially between 300 nm and 1 μm.

[0164] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigment has a size characterized by D

[50] greater than 100 nm, possibly less than or equal to 10 μm, preferably ranging from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0165] The size is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which allows the determination of the full particle size distribution over a wide range that can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data are processed based on the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions in the submicron to multimicron range; it allows the determination of the "effective" particle size. This theory is described, inter alia, in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0166] D

[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0167] According to a particular form of the invention, the inorganic pigments constitute an oleophilic or hydrophobic coating, said coating preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0168] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment may be coated in accordance with the present invention with at least one compound selected from metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0169] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, which may contain an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.

[0170] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or its salt, more particularly stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. under the trade name NAI®.

[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. As examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) treated pigments, mention may be made of the titanium dioxide pigments sold by Kobo under the trade names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), as well as black, red and yellow iron oxides.

[0172] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0173] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopaedia. The organic pigment may be selected from, inter alia, nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0174] Organic pigments are, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, red pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, The red pigments may be selected from those designated as 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives, as described in French Patent No. 2 679 771.

[0175] These pigments may be in the form of composite pigments, such as those described in EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may consist, inter alia, of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0176] The pigment may also be a lake, the term "lake" meaning an insolubilized dye adsorbed onto an insoluble particle, the resulting mass remaining insoluble during use.

[0177] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0178] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Names below: D&C Red 21(CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5(CI 45 370), D&C Red 27(CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10(CI 45 425), D&C Red 3(CI 45 430), D&C Red 4(CI 15 510), D&C Red 33(CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5(CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6(CI 15 985), D&C Green 5(CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10(CI 77 002), D&C Green 3(CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1(CI 42) 090) may also be mentioned.

[0179] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0180] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent dye of the inorganic pigment type, in particular chosen from metal oxides, more particularly from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide or iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0181] The nacre may be chosen from white nacre pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica with iron oxide, especially titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with organic pigments of the aforementioned type, and also nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0182] Preferably, the powdered dye is present in the composition in a content ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] Fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or liposoluble dye, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] For obvious reasons, this amount is subject to great variation as a function of the desired color effect and the intensity of the color strength imparted by the dye under consideration, adjustment of which is clearly within the capabilities of one skilled in the art.

[0185] Additional dyes suitable for use in the present invention may be liposoluble.

[0186] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liposoluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound that is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent that is miscible with fatty substances and that is capable of imparting color.

[0187] Lipid-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the present invention may include, inter alia, synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0188] Additional dyes suitable for use in the present invention may be water-soluble.

[0189] For purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and that is capable of imparting color.

[0190] Water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the present invention may include, inter alia, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel, and riboflavin.

[0191] The water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, if any, which the composition contains, are preferably present in a content of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] cosmetic additives The compositions according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in skin care and / or makeup products, such as active agents such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; UV screening agents; fillers; waxes; pasty compounds; hydrophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents other than alkylcelluloses (especially ethylcellulose); lipophilic gelling agents; fragrances; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0193] It is a matter of routine practice for one skilled in the art to adjust the type and amount of additives present in a composition according to the present invention so that its desired cosmetic properties are not affected thereby.

[0194] Filler Thus, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one filler that makes it possible to give them additional properties, especially in terms of improved mattness, coverage, staying power and / or stability.

[0195] The term "fillers" should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape, provided in insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition, which give stiffness or hardness to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0196] Fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0197] Preferably, they may be chosen from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.

[0198] The term "natural compound" means a compound obtained from the earth or soil, or directly from a plant or animal, as appropriate, by one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distilling, refining, or filtering.

[0199] The term "compound of natural origin" refers to a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments that result in modifications that do not affect the compound's true nature, and / or a compound that primarily contains natural components that may or may not have been transformed. Non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial treatments that result in modifications that do not affect the true nature of the natural compound include those approved by governing bodies such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or those defined in recognized handbooks in the art, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine," 2005, volume 120, 9:10.

[0200] The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may be in lamellar, spherical or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0201] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, in particular they may be surface treated with amino acids or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0202] inorganic fillers Examples of inorganic fillers that may be mentioned include talc, natural or synthetic mica such as synthetic fluorphlogopite, silica, hydrophobic silica, aerogel, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.

[0203] organic fillers Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned include micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powders, such as the products sold by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0204] Preferably, the filler is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] wax The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

[0206] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature, undergoes a reversible solid / liquid change of state, and has a melting point above 30°C, which may be below 120°C.

[0207] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the highest endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments equipped with TA Universal Analysis software.

[0208] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then it is cooled to 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min.

[0209] During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the solid fatty material is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the highest observed endothermic peak of the melting curve and represents the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0210] The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (ΔHf), which corresponds to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained, can also be measured. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0211] The waxes may be silicone waxes or, preferably, hydrocarbon-based waxes, and may also be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0212] In particular, the wax preferably has a melting point greater than or equal to 35°C, and even better still greater than or equal to 40°C.

[0213] Non-polar waxes: For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax that is composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and does not contain heteroatoms such as N, O, Si, P, etc.

[0214] Examples of non-polar waxes that are suitable for use in the present invention may include, inter alia, hydrocarbon-based waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes and microcrystalline waxes, especially polyethylene waxes.

[0215] Polar wax The polar wax may be, inter alia, a hydrocarbon-based or silicone wax.

[0216] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar hydrocarbon-based wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and more particularly comprises at least one heteroatom selected from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof, and which may therefore contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0217] The term "silicone wax" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular containing Si-O groups.

[0218] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon-based wax.

[0219] Waxes selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes are preferred as polar hydrocarbon waxes.

[0220] According to the present invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax containing at least one ester functional group. The ester wax may also be hydroxylated.

[0221] According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax containing at least one alcohol functional group, ie containing at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0222] In particular, as ester waxes, alone or in mixtures: i) waxes of formula R1COOR2, where R1 and R2 represent a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain, the number of atoms of which ranges from 6 to 50, in particular from 10 to 50, and which may contain heteroatoms such as O or N, and whose melting point is more particularly in the range from 30°C to 120°C. In particular, as ester waxes, waxes such as C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (wherein the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms), either alone or in mixtures, or C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl stearates may be used. Such waxes are sold, inter alia, by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® or Kester Wax K82H. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof may also be used; ii) bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate; iii) General formula R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 )(wherein, R 3 and R 5 are the same or different, preferably the same, and C4 to C 30 represents an alkyl group, and R 4 is a straight-chain or branched C4-C olefin which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations 30 Diester waxes of dicarboxylic acids, preferably C4 to C 30 The aliphatic group is straight-chain and unsaturated; iv) especially linear or branched C8-C 32Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing fatty chains, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, e.g., Phytowax Castor 22L73®, or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those sold by Sophim in the Phytowax Olive range, e.g., Phytowax Olive 18L57. Such waxes are described, inter alia, in patent application FR 2 792 190; v) saturated, optionally hydroxylated C 16 ~C 30 Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters of carboxylic acids and glycerol, preferably total esters. The term "total esters" means that all hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. Examples that may be mentioned include trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), either alone or in mixtures. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E, sold by Elementis Specialties. v) waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esculenta wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wood wax, hazel wax, montan wax, orange wax, bay laurel wax or sunflower wax, especially refined sunflower wax, may also be mentioned; vii) Mention may also be made of natural or synthetic polyalkylenated or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes of animal or vegetable origin; the number of (C2-C4)oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100 and the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20. Examples which may be mentioned include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba wax, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin wax, such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glycerides; polyglycerolized beeswax, especially Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixtures, polyglycerolized vegetable waxes, such as Mimosa, Jojoba or Sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters). can be used.

[0223] According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. The alcohol wax may be a saturated linear C 30 ~C 50 Mixtures of alcohols may be mentioned, such as the wax Performacol 550 Alcohol from New Phase Technology, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0224] silicone wax Examples of silicone waxes that may be mentioned include mixtures containing compounds of the C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) type, such as the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax sold by Dow Corning. Also included may be mixtures containing compounds of the C30-45 alkylmethicone (INCI name) type, such as the product Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Siliconized beeswax may also be mentioned.

[0225] Preferably, the wax, if any, of the composition is selected from hydrocarbon waxes, more particularly from non-polar waxes, polar hydrocarbon waxes, such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as those obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, alcohol waxes, and mixtures thereof, preferably from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, alone or in mixtures.

[0226] The wax content, if any, of the composition advantageously ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] Paste-like compound The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound that is pasty at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0228] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" refers to a lipophilic compound that undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change, in particular has an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at room temperature.

[0229] In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound may be below room temperature. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at room temperature, may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This fraction, which is liquid at room temperature, preferably represents 15% to 85% by weight, more preferably 40% to 85% by weight.

[0230] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principles as those detailed above for the waxes.

[0231] However, in the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of the pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase in the range from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then it is cooled to 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min and finally it is subjected to a second temperature increase in the range from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min.

[0232] The melting point of a pasty fatty substance is the temperature value corresponding to the highest peak on the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0233] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by mass of a pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

[0234] The heat of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance to go from the solid state to the liquid state. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0235] The heat of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fatty substance from a solid state to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0236] The pasty compounds may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of vegetable origin.

[0237] The pasty compound is in particular Lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolinate, and oxypropylated lanolin, - Vaseline (also known as petrolatum), ethers of pentaerythritol and of C2-C4 polyalkylene glycols, such as the compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, for example, of the mixture sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy. - One or more C2~C 100 , preferably C2 to C 50 Lipid-soluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between diols. Among the lipophilic polyethers, those derived from ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, with long chains of C6 to C6 30 Copolymers with alkylene oxides are considered, more preferably copolymers in which the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxide in the copolymer is between 5:95 and 70:30. Of this type, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product with the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer sold, for example, by Akzo Nobel under the brand name Elfacos ST9. - preferably saturated, linear or branched, C6-C 10 of dicarboxylic acids and of diglycerol, and optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, C6-C 20Esters resulting from the condensation of monocarboxylic acids, in particular of adipic acid and of diglycerol with C6-C 20 diesters obtained by condensation of mixtures of esters with fatty acids, such as mixtures of caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular that sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2), - optionally hydrogenated (fully or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 ~C 18 for example, saturated C triglycerides of fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo. 12 ~C 18 Glycerides of fatty acids (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides), esters of diol dimers or of polyols and of diacid dimers, such as: * Esters of the dimer of dilinoleyl alcohol and of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterol, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, such as the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Seikagaku Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * Esters of dilinoleic acid and of mixtures of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Seikagaku Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); butters of vegetable origin, such as mango butter, for example the product sold under the name Lipex 203 by AarhusKarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, for example the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by AarhusKarlshamn, cupuaçu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; and also orange wax, for example the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen; fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as, for example, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as, for example, the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil produced or sold under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50® by Desert Whale, partially hydrogenated olive oil, such as, for example, the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance, hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd., and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS(VL) sold by Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.; - and mixtures thereof may be selected from:

[0238] When the composition contains at least one pasty compound, its / their content ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0239] Lipophilic gelling agents The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0240] As lipophilic gelling agents, examples that may be mentioned include lipophilic clays.

[0241] The term "lipophilic clay" refers to any clay that is lipophilic or liposoluble in the oily phase of the composition.

[0242] Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a layered structure. The clays may be natural or synthetic and they have been made lipophilic by treatment with alkyl ammonium salts such as C10-C22 ammonium chloride, especially stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0243] They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonite, hectorite and montmorillonite, beidellite, saponite, nontronite, sepiolite, biotite, attapulgite, vermiculite and zeolites.

[0244] They are preferably selected from hectorite and bentonite.

[0245] For example, hydrophobically modified bentonite and hydrophobically modified hectorite, especially those modified with C10 to C22 quaternary ammonium chlorides, such as: bentonites modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as those sold under the names Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250, Tixogel® VZ and Tixogel® VZ-V XR by BYK Additives Inc. or those sold under the names Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4 and Viscogel® SD by Bentec SPA; bentonites modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as the commercial products Dub Velvet Gum® from Stearinerie Dubois Fils, Myglyol GEL T® from Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, Tixogel® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 from BYK Additives Inc; - hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as the product sold under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by the company Elementis Specialities; hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as the products sold under the names Bentone® GEL DOA V, Bentone® GEL EUG V, Bentone® GEL IHD V, Bentone® GEL ISD V, Bentone® GEL MIO V®, Bentone® GEL PTM V®, Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V or Bentone® VS-5 by Elementis Specialities; the products sold under the names Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS or Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID by Creations Couleurs; NS Gel DM1®, NS Gel PTIS® or NS MGel® by Next Step Laboratories Stop Commercially available product sold under the trademark 1152 An organophilic clay selected from the following may be used:

[0246] Mention may also be made as lipophilic gelling agents of esters of dextrin and of fatty acids, in particular of C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18 fatty acids, or mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the dextrin esters are esters of dextrin and of C12 to C18, in particular C14 to C18 fatty acids.

[0247] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] Throughout this specification, including the claims, the phrase "comprising a" should be understood to be synonymous with "comprising at least one," unless otherwise specified.

[0249] The expressions "to" and "range of" should be understood to mean that the range is inclusive unless otherwise specified.

[0250] Additionally, the sum of the amounts of the components of a composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0251] The present invention will be explained in more detail by the examples that follow.

[0252] Unless otherwise specified, amounts given are expressed as mass percentages.

[0253] The following examples are presented as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention. [Example]

[0254] Composition 1 according to the invention was prepared, containing 10% by weight of a mixture of polyester diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (6% by weight) and of caprylic / capric triglyceride (4% by weight).

[0255] Comparative Examples 1a and 1b outside the invention were prepared: Comparative Example 1a has the same composition except that the polyester is replaced with the same amount of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2. Comparative Example 1b has the same composition except that the polyester is replaced with the same amount of hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate. The compositions are detailed in the table below.

[0256] [Table 1]

[0257] Composition preparation method: Isododecane, alcohol, and a portion of the polyester (SolAmaze, Softisan, or Risocast) were mixed in a beaker. The mixture was stirred at 500 rpm using a Rayneri flocculator for 2 minutes. While stirring at 500 rpm using a deflocculator (to create a vortex), ethyl cellulose was introduced as a fine mist, and the mixture was then allowed to stir for 10 minutes. The pigment, which had been pre-milled using a three-roll mill, was added along with the remaining isododecane.

[0258] Composition evaluation: Protocol for assessing endurance Each composition was applied to an Erichsen contrast chart using a spreader as a deposit having a thickness of 24.5 μm over a width of at least 6 cm and left to dry on a hot plate at 32° C. for 40 minutes. Three thin strips of 2 cm Wypall® cloth (Kimberley Clark) were placed on the deposit without overlapping them: The first strip is dry and * The second strip is impregnated with distilled water (0.1 ml), * The third strip is impregnated with olive oil (0.1 ml). A 2 kg weight film spreader was placed on all of the thin strips, and the aggregate was moved up the film. The state of the deposit was observed. The procedure was repeated for each of the prepared compositions.

[0259] Endurance Grading

[0260] [Table 2]

[0261] result:

[0262] [Table 3]

[0263] The above results confirm the superiority of the composition according to the invention, which in particular makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and very strong deposit, the drying resistance, water resistance and oil resistance of which are significantly improved.

Claims

1. A composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising, in particular, in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one volatile solvent; B) the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one acid dimer; and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; wherein the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) are in a molar ratio of 1 mol polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol acid dimer and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol fatty monoacid; C) at least one alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, whose alkyl groups are C2 to C3; D) at least one dye; A composition comprising:

2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the volatile solvent is selected from monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, volatile oils, preferably non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition comprises a mixture of a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and a monoalcohol; in particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from isododecane, a mixture of undecane and tridecane, and mixtures thereof; and the monoalcohol is ethanol.

4. 4. Composition according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the amount of monoalcohol ranges from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably from 4% to 50% by weight and even more preferentially from 6% to 40% by weight.

5. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the amount of volatile oil is less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of monoalcohol is less than 3.5, and even more preferentially less than 1.

5.

7. 7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyester is substantially or completely the product of a non-sequential reaction.

8. 8. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polyester is prepared by a one-step process comprising introducing all of the reagents into a reaction vessel and then inducing a completely random addition of the acid dimer and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.

9. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 40%, or at least 45%, or at least 50% by weight of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3.

10. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture is composed of at least 20%, or at least 25%, by weight of diglycerol; at least 15%, or at least 18%, by weight of triglycerol; at least 10%, or at least 12%, by weight of tetraglycerol; all said percentages by weight being based on the total content of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

11. 11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of said polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

12. 12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyester is the reaction product of polyglycerol-3, hydrogenated C36 acid dimer, and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

13. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the amount of polyester active material ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The polyester is a) the following: (i) polyglycerol-3; and (ii) Hydrogenated C ３６ of the acid dimer; and (iii) polyesters obtained by reaction of isostearic acid, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of acid dimer and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acid; b) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride and 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it is in an oily solution comprising said mixture, more particularly having the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

15. 15. A composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the oily solution contains the polyester in a concentration of from 10% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 90% by weight and more particularly from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

16. The oily solution is a hydrogenated C glyceride of 40% by weight of caprylic / capric triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1. ３６ 16. Composition according to claim 14 or 15, characterized in that it comprises a polyester of an acid dimer and of isostearic acid.

17. 17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the content of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. 18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably polar and other than polyesters B), in particular chosen from ester oils.

19. 19. The composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the content of non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. 20. The composition according to claim 18 or 19, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil to the amount of polyester is less than 7.

21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that the composition is a liquid.

22. 22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of water, more particularly less than 2% by weight of water, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dye is chosen from powdered dyes, lipophilic dyes, water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

24. 24. The composition of claim 23, wherein the powdered dye is selected from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof.

25. 25. Composition according to claim 23 or 24, characterized in that the pulverulent dye is present in a content ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

26. 26. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one additive chosen from active agents such as waxes, pasty lipophilic compounds, vitamins, e.g. vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; UV screening agents; fillers; film-forming agents; lipophilic gelling agents; fragrances; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

27. A method for making up and / or caring for the lips, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to the lips of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26.

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