Compositions containing chitosan

Abstract

The present invention provides a method for treating a pulmonary arthritis with a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium comprising: a) natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and representing at least 0.01% by weight as a percentage of the total weight of the composition, said amount being strictly less than 15% by weight; b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; c) 3% to 50% by weight of a pigment coloring material relative to the total weight of the composition, and d) Nonionic surfactants Including, The cosmetic composition has a weight ratio between the nonionic surfactant and the chitosan of between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6. The present invention also relates to a method for making up and / or treating the skin and / or keratinous appendages, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or keratinous appendages.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention provides a method for treating a pulmonary arthritis with a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium comprising: a) natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and representing at least 0.01% by weight as a percentage of the total weight of the composition, said amount being strictly less than 15% by weight; b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; c) 3% to 50% by weight of a pigment coloring material relative to the total weight of the composition, and d) Nonionic surfactants Including, The cosmetic composition has a weight ratio between the nonionic surfactant and the chitosan of between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6.

[0002] The present invention also relates to a method for making up and / or treating the skin and / or keratinous appendages, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or keratinous appendages. [Background technology]

[0003] Many cosmetic compositions require that the film deposited on the keratinous material should remain intact after application. For example, lipstick or nail polish can be mentioned. To achieve such a result, it is possible to combine special raw materials, especially film-forming agents. However, the presence of such agents for the film to remain intact on the keratinous material may cause the composition to dry out.

[0004] Furthermore, it is often desirable to have a composition that coats well.

[0005] For this reason, formulators are seeking raw materials and / or systems that allow them to obtain fluid compositions (i.e., ones that flow) whose deposits provide good coverage, are homogeneous, and strong (i.e., last well).

[0006] Furthermore, cosmetic formulations containing a high proportion of natural or naturally occurring raw materials are one of the new challenges to meet consumer expectations, and therefore compositions that propose making it possible to maintain a high proportion of natural or naturally occurring raw materials are desirable. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0007] [Patent Document 1] WO03068824 [Patent Document 2] French Patent No. 2679771 [Patent Document 3] EP1184426 [Patent Document 4] Patent Publication No. 10-265337 [Non-patent literature]

[0008] [Non-Patent Document 1] Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. [Non-patent document 2] J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Vol. 5), pp. 249-256 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0009] The object of the present invention is to propose aqueous cosmetic compositions which have improved cosmetic properties, especially in terms of coverage and uniformity, and which have good long-lasting properties.

[0010] After application, these compositions leave a homogeneous film-forming deposit that covers well and has good resistance to abrasion. The films formed are adhesive and cohesive, and cover and last well. In particular, they have improved resistance to abrasion. [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] The object of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, in particular for the makeup and / or treatment of the skin and / or lips, in particular the lips, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and representing at least 0.01% by weight as a percentage of the total weight of the composition, said amount being strictly less than 15% by weight; b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; c) 3% to 50% by weight of a pigment coloring material relative to the total weight of the composition, and d) Nonionic surfactants Including, The cosmetic composition has a weight ratio between the nonionic surfactant and the chitosan of between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6.

[0012] "Physiologically acceptable" refers to a medium that is compatible with keratinous materials.

[0013] Another object of the present invention is a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or keratinous appendages, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or keratinous appendages.

[0014] Chitosan The composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the composition of at least one natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons (3 kDa, 1 Da=1 g / mol).

[0015] The amount of natural chitosan is also strictly less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] Preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight of 10 kDa or more, preferably 15 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more. Preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, more preferably between 20 kDa and 150 kDa.

[0017] Chitosan (or chitosane) is very widespread in nature: it has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects, such as termite queens, and in the cell walls of a specific class of fungi, Zygomycetes.

[0018] Chitosan is obtained by deacetylation of chitin, a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by β-type bonds (1,4).

[0019] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic bonds (1→4).

[0020] "Chitosan" according to the present invention refers to any copolymer formed by N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine building blocks, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β-type (1,4) bonds, forming a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.

[0021] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of the chitosan is 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 25% or less, preferably 15% or less.

[0022] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy or strong base titration.

[0023] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source, in particular, chitosan extracted and purified from safe and abundant edible or biotechnological fungal sources, such as mushroom (Agaricus bisporus) or Aspergillus niger.

[0024] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of a fungus of the ascomycete type, in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a fungus of the Basidiomycete type, in particular Lentinula edodes and / or a mushroom. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0025] The chitosan may be of GMO origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0026] The chitosan according to the invention is natural, i.e. unmodified, in particular it does not contain any chemical modification.

[0027] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in application WO03068824.

[0028] The chitosan used in the present invention is preferably in the form of a powder, in particular that sold under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime by the company Kitozyme.

[0029] Chitosan is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one AHA.

[0031] Alpha hydroxy acids are, according to the invention, carboxylic acids having at least one hydroxy functional group occupying the alpha position (the carbon adjacent to the carboxylic acid functional group), which may be present in the final composition in the form of a free acid and / or one of its associated salts (especially salts with organic bases or alkalis), particularly depending on the final pH to be imposed on the composition.

[0032] The α-hydroxy acid (alpha hydroxy acid or AHA) may be selected from, for example, lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; salts and mixtures thereof.

[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and salts thereof. More particularly, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, and salts and mixtures thereof.

[0034] The alpha hydroxy acid may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] pigment colorant The composition according to the invention comprises from 3% to 50% by weight of at least one pigment dye, relative to the total weight of the composition, said dye being therefore chosen from powder dyes such as inorganic pigments, pearlescent agents and organic pigments.

[0036] A pigment colorant is a compound that has a color index (CI).

[0037] The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous media and are intended to color and / or consequently adhere to the composition.

[0038] Preferably, the pigment dyes of the present invention have a refractive index of at least 1.9 at 25°C.

[0039] The refractive index of the pigment dyes of the invention is preferably comprised between 1.9 and 4. In particular, the pigment dyes are different from the fillers; preferably, the pigment dyes are different from the talc.

[0040] The dye may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 3% to 45% by weight, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0041] inorganic pigments According to one particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

[0042] The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Among the inorganic pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, Ta2O5 in a mixture with ZnS, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2.

[0043] The size of pigments useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D50 greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. This size is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available Malvern MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer, which allows for the determination of the full granulometric distribution of particles over a wide range that can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data is processed based on classical Mie scattering theory, which is best suited to particle size distributions in the submicron to several micron range and allows for the determination of the "effective" diameter of the particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D50 represents the maximum size possessed by 50% of the particles by volume.

[0044] In the context of the present invention, inorganic pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0045] Inorganic pigments that may be used in the present invention may also include pearlescent agents.

[0046] The term "pearlescent agent" should be understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are produced in particular by certain mollusks in their shells or synthesized, and which produce a color effect by optical interference.

[0047] The pearlescent agent includes pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dye, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. The pearlescent agent may be selected from the group consisting of: (a) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (b) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (c) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (d) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (e) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (f) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (g) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (g) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (g) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (h) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (h) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (i ...ii) a pearlescent agent having a surface coated with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic pigments; (iii) a pearl

[0048] Pigments that can be used in accordance with the present invention include those that have simple conventional hue effects, i.e., uniform and stable effects of the kind produced by conventional dyes, e.g., optical effects that are different from monochrome pigments.

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, "stable" means that there is no effect of varying color depending on the viewing angle or in response to temperature changes. For example, the material can be selected from particles with a metallic luster, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brighteners, and even fibers, especially of the interference type. Naturally, these various materials can be combined to produce the simultaneous appearance of two effects, or even the novel effect according to the invention.

[0050] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0051] organic pigments According to another embodiment of the present invention, the pigment colorants are organic, synthetic or natural pigments, or of natural origin.

[0052] The term "organic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments of Ullmann's Encyclopedia. The organic pigment may be chosen in particular from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone and phthalocyanine compounds, compounds of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.

[0053] Organic pigments are, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments organized in the color index under the reference numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments organized in the color index under the reference numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments organized in the color index under the reference numbers CI 61565, 61570, 74260, and green pigments organized in the color index under the reference number CI 1172. 15, 15510, 45370, 71105, the orange pigments organized in the Color Index under the reference numbers CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2 679 771.

[0054] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may in particular consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0055] The pigment may also be a lacquer.

[0056] The term "lacquer" refers to an insoluble pigment that is adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the aggregate thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0057] Inorganic substrates for adsorbing dyes include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0058] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of products known by the following names: D&C Red 21(CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5(CI 45 370), D&C Red 27(CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10(CI 45 425), D&C Red 3(CI 45 430), D&C Red 4(CI 15) 510), D&C Red 33(CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5(CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6(CI 15 985), D&C Green(CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O(CI 77 002), D&C Green 3(CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1(CI 42 090). An example of a lacquer is the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0059] Nonionic surfactants The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.

[0060] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant used in the present invention has an HLB value of 10 or more, preferably 12 or more. As is well known, HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) refers to the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of a surfactant. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Vol. 5), pp. 249-256.

[0061] Alternatively, and preferably, the nonionic surfactants used in the present invention have an HLB of less than 10.

[0062] The non-ionic surfactant can be chosen from non-ionic surfactants known from the prior art, in particular from esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols, sugar esters, poloxamers, polysorbates and mixtures thereof.

[0063] The non-ionic surfactants are preferably chosen from esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols, and sugar esters.

[0064] The ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol preferably contains 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0065] The esters of fatty acids and polyglycerol are preferably formed from at least one acid containing a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms and from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0066] According to one embodiment, the polyglycerol esters according to the invention result from the esterification of at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid with a polyglycerol comprising between 2 and 10 glycerol units.

[0067] Preferably, the ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol is a monoester or a diester, preferably a monoester.

[0068] The term "polyglycerol" refers to a glyceryl polymer that is a linear chain of 2 to 10, preferably 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10, glycerol units.

[0069] Esters particularly considered according to the invention are those resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol and a C10-C20, preferably C10, C12 or C18 carboxylic acid, such as capric acid, lauric acid, ricinoleic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid or myristic acid.

[0070] The carboxylic acids may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0071] Preferably, the carboxylic acid is a straight chain monocarboxylic acid.

[0072] Generally, they are derived from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function with a C10-C20, preferably C12-C18, especially C10-C12, carboxylic acid.

[0073] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol is selected from polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 5 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monomyristate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ester is selected from esters of fatty acids containing 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing 4 glycerol units, esters of fatty acids containing 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing 10 glycerol units, and esters of fatty acids containing 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing 2 glycerol units.

[0075] Esters of fatty acids containing 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing four glycerol units are formed from (i) at least one fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 10 carbon atoms (also called a C10 fatty acid), and (ii) four glycerol units.

[0076] Preferably, the C10 fatty acid is saturated and contains a straight alkyl chain. Preferably, the C10 fatty acid is capric acid.

[0077] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ester of a fatty acid containing 10 carbon atoms and a polyglyceryl containing 4 glycerol units is polyglyceryl monocaprate containing 4 glycerol units, i.e. polyglyceryl monocaprate-4.

[0078] Esters of fatty acids containing 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing 10 glycerol units are formed from (i) at least one fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 12 carbon atoms (also called a C12 fatty acid), and (ii) 10 glycerol units.

[0079] Preferably, the C12 fatty acid is saturated and contains a straight alkyl chain. Preferably, the C12 fatty acid is lauric acid.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ester of a fatty acid containing 12 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 10 glycerol units is polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 10 glycerol units, i.e. polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate.

[0081] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an ester of a fatty acid and a polyglycerol, which is a polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, i.e. polyglyceryl-5 laurate or polyglyceryl-6 laurate.

[0082] Esters of fatty acids containing 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing two glycerol units are formed from (i) at least one fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 18 carbon atoms (also called C18 fatty acid), and (ii) two glycerol units.

[0083] Preferably, the C18 fatty acid is unsaturated and contains a straight alkyl chain. Preferably, the C18 fatty acid is oleic acid.

[0084] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ester of a fatty acid containing 18 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing two glycerol units is polyglyceryl monooleate containing two glycerol units, i.e. polyglyceryl-2 monooleate.

[0085] A commercially available product based primarily on polyglyceryl-4 monocaprate or PG-4 caprate is available from Evonik Goldschmidt under the product name TEGOSOFT PC 41.

[0086] A commercially available product based primarily on polyglyceryl-2 monooleate or PG-2 oleate is available from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. under the product name SUNSOFT Q-17D(G)-C.

[0087] A commercially available product based primarily on polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate or PG-10 laurate is available from Dr Straetmans under the product name Dermofeel G 10 L.

[0088] A commercially available product based primarily on polyglyceryl-5 laurate or PG-5 laurate is available from Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. under the product name SUNSOFT A-121E-C®.

[0089] A commercial product based primarily on polyglyceryl-6 laurate or PG-6 laurate is available from Dr Straetmans under the product name Dermofeel G 6 L.

[0090] The ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol can also be polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate or polyglyceryl-4 isostearate.

[0091] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one sugar ester.

[0092] By "sugar ester" is meant an ester of a sugar and a C10 to C24, preferably C12 to C20, more preferably C12 to C18 fatty acid. By "sugar" is meant herein a compound containing at least four carbon atoms, with some alcohol functionality, with or without aldehyde or ketone functionality. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0093] Sugars that can be used in accordance with the present invention include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof, particularly alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0094] The fatty acids containing 10 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may be selected from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, behenic acid, cocoic acid, linolenic acid, capric acid, arachidonic acid, or mixtures thereof, leading in particular to mixed oleic-palmitic, oleic-stearic, and palmitostearic esters, or mixtures thereof. The esters may be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Mention may be made, by way of example, of mono- and diesters, in particular mono- or dioleate, stearates, behenates, oleic acid palmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleic acid stearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and in particular methylglucose dioleate, the product sold by the company Amerchol under the name Glucate DO.

[0096] Also included are mixtures of methyl glucose with fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate sold under the name Tego Care 450 by the company Evonik.

[0097] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the ester of a sugar and a fatty acid is an ester of sucrose and a fatty acid, preferably chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of sucrose (saccharose) with a fatty acid containing from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0098] In particular, the ester of sucrose with a fatty acid is selected from esters resulting from the reaction of sucrose with a fatty acid containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid and / or palmitic acid, such as sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, etc., or mixtures thereof.

[0099] The ester of sucrose with a fatty acid can be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, an ester with a low degree of esterification is used, such as a monoester, diester, or triester of sucrose with a fatty acid, or a mixture thereof. The ester of sucrose with a fatty acid can be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, such as a mixture of monoesters and diesters, or a mixture of monoesters, diesters, and triesters.

[0100] When a mixture of esters of sucrose and fatty acids is used, preference is given to a mixture in which the esters with a low degree of esterification, in particular the monoesters, predominate, for example accounting for at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, of the mixture of esters of sucrose and fatty acids.

[0101] Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sucrose and fatty acids include: - Surfhope SE COSME C-1803, which is sucrose tristearate containing approximately 20% monoester, the remainder of the mixture being composed of diesters and triesters; - Surfhope SE COSME C-1416, which is a sucrose myristate containing approximately 80% monoesters, with the remainder of the mixture being composed of diesters and triesters; - Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, INCI name sucrose laurate, containing 75-90% monoesters, the remainder of the mixture being composed of diesters and triesters; - Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L, INCI name sucrose laurate, containing approximately 70% monoesters, the remainder of the mixture being composed of diesters and other polyesters; - Surfhope SE COSME C-1616, a mixture of sucrose esters with palmitic and / or stearic acid (INCI name sucrose palmitate), containing 75-90% monoesters, the remainder of the mixture being made up of diesters and triesters, and which may also contain sucrose stearate and sucrose palmitate stearate; an ester containing 70% monoesters and 30% diesters and triesters, with the INCI name Sucrose Laurate, sold by Daiichi Pharmaceutical Co. as DK Ester S-L18A; - products sold by Crodesta under the names F50, F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40, which represent sucrose palmitostearate and sucrose monolaurate formed respectively by 30% monoesters and 70% polyesters, by 73% monoesters and 27% diesters and triesters, by 61% monoesters and 39% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, by 52% monoesters and 48% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, by 45% monoesters and 55% diesters, triesters and tetraesters and by 39% monoesters and 61% diesters, triesters and tetraesters, - products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Ester, for example referenced B370, corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-triester-polyester; - Sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold under the name TEGOSOFT® PSE by the company Goldschmidt.

[0102] Poloxamers that can be used herein are block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of the following formula: HO(C2H4O) x (C3H6O) y (C2H4O) z H (wherein x, y, and z are integers such that x+z is in the range of 2 to 100 and y is in the range of 10 to 60), and mixtures thereof, more specifically, those derived from block copolymers having an HLB value in the range of 2 to 16.

[0103] The poloxamer may in particular be chosen from Poloxamer 184 (product in the above formula where x=13, z=30, y=13); Poloxamer 231 (product in the above formula where x=z=6, y=39; HLB 2); Poloxamer 282 (product in the above formula where x=z=10, y=47; HLB 6); and Poloxamer 124 (product in the above formula where x=z=11, y=21; HLB 16).

[0104] Polysorbates are sorbitan fatty esters. They can be selected in particular from esters of CC fatty acids and sorbitan, and oxyethylenated esters of CC fatty acids and sorbitan. They are formed from at least one fatty acid containing at least one saturated linear alkyl chain, each containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters generally contain 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units. These esters can be selected in particular from stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, arachidic acid esters, palmitic acid esters, and mixtures thereof. Stearic acid esters and palmitic acid esters are preferably used. Examples of sorbitan fatty esters and oxyethylated sorbitan fatty esters that may be mentioned are sorbitan monostearate sold under the name Span 60 by Croda (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate sold under the name Span 40 (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sorbitan monolaurate 20 EO sold under the name Tween 20 (CTFA name: polysorbate 20), and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO sold under the name Tween 65 (CTFA name: polysorbate 65).

[0105] The nonionic surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.02% to 10% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.03% to 8% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.08% to 4% by weight, preferentially in the range from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] According to the invention, the weight ratio between the nonionic surfactant selected from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters and sugar esters and chitosan (i.e. the weight ratio of nonionic surfactant to chitosan) is between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6. Preferably, the weight ratio is between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0107] a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium The composition according to the present invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, said medium comprising water.

[0108] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or spring or natural mineral water.

[0109] The composition preferably comprises at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] The composition preferably comprises at least 5% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially 10% to 85%, even more preferentially 20% to 80%, even more preferentially 25% to 70%, even more preferentially 28% to 60%, even more preferentially 30% to 50%.

[0111] The aqueous phase may also contain at least one organic solvent that is water-miscible at 25°C.

[0112] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is selected from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Alcohols include C1 to C 10 More preferably, C1 to C5 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol can be mentioned.

[0114] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] The composition may comprise from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, and even more preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] pH of the composition The composition according to the invention has a pH of less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, preferably less than or equal to 6.3. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.3.

[0117] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one base.

[0118] The base is particularly used to adjust the final pH of the composition to between 3 and 6.3.

[0119] The base may be selected from inorganic bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and the like.

[0120] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, because these bases provide color stabilization advantages (i.e., less yellowing) than nitrogen-containing bases such as triethanolamine.

[0121] The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one base in an active substance content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] The compositions according to the invention can be obtained conventionally by those skilled in the art.

[0123] The following examples make it possible to better understand the invention, but are not limiting. Raw materials are referred to by their chemical or INC1 names. The amounts given are in % by weight (% w / w) of the raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified. [Example]

[0124] Preparation of the Composition In the following examples, each formulation was prepared according to the protocol described below: At room temperature under mechanical agitation with minimal vortexing: - Dispersing the chitosan and water under mechanical agitation with minimal vortexing; - Adding an appropriate amount of acid to solubilize the chitosan and form a more viscous solution; - adding the pigment, then the polyol (if present), then the surfactant; If necessary, the mixture may then be passed through a triple roll mill.

[0125] Example 1 Evaluation of the effects of various ingredients 1. Prepare formulations F1-F11. Protocol for testing the film-forming and release aspects of formulations after deposition 10 g of the solution is deposited on an aluminum capsule with a diameter of 9.5 cm, spreading it evenly over the entire surface. The deposit is allowed to dry on a hot plate at 32°C for 24 hours. The sample is then evaluated for feel at first touch. If the sample remains liquid and on the finger, it is considered not capable of forming a film. If the sample is able to form a film, a second evaluation consists of peeling the sample from the aluminum capsule with a spatula. If the experimenter is able to peel it off, the deposit can be said to be releasable.

[0126] The appearance of the preparation is said to meet the specification if it is fluid and flowable. The appearance is not specified if the formulation is solid or in the shape of a gum or is not flowable.

[0127] Sensory characteristics are defined by applying a 2.54 cm square of material to the skin of the arm using a finger. If the application is not fluid and produces a noticeable uneven texture or brittle solid-type irregular sensation, the sensory characteristics are considered to be out of specification. If the application is fluid, the sensory characteristics are considered to be within specification. In the table: OK = Meets specification, NO = Out of specification, F5 and F6 = Intermediate.

[0128] Homogeneity is described in terms of the visual aspects of the film described above. A film is said to be non-homogeneous if its thickness contains visible non-homogeneities. A film is said to be homogeneous if it has a visually constant thickness.

[0129] [Table 1]

[0130] Formulations F1 and F2: The minimum dose of chitosan to form a film detectable by this test is 0.1%. An amount of 0.5% makes it possible to obtain a peelable film.

[0131] Formulation F4: Chitosan must in all cases be present in an amount strictly less than 15% by weight, since then the formulation would not be applicable and the appearance (bulk) of the composition would not be fluid.

[0132] Formulations F8-F10: The mass ratio between nonionic surfactant and chitosan is ideally not more than 6 (F9), since above this the deposit is not homogeneous (F10), and preferentially 4, which results in a very homogeneous film (F8). The non-homogeneity is due to the inability to work / mix / apply the formed material.

[0133] 2. Protocol to evaluate modifications to membrane mechanical properties for improved comfort Formulations C1-C3 and A1, A3 and A4 are prepared.

[0134] 10 g of the solution is applied to an aluminum capsule with a diameter of 9.5 cm, and the applied solution is evenly spread over the entire surface. The applied solution is dried on a hot plate at 32°C for 24 hours. - Using a punching die, cut three test pieces measuring 20 mm long and 6 mm wide. - Measure the thickness of the test specimen with a Palmer micrometer. - Place the specimen in the jaws of a Stable Micro Systems TA.XT Plus texturometer and start the measurement using Exponent software to obtain the strength (g) and length at break (mm). TA setting: Speed ​​0.1 or 0.3 mm / s → Deformation % = Elongation / Original size * 100 = (elongation at break - original size) / original size * 100 → Stress = Strength (N) / Surface (m) = Strength (g) * g / width * Thickness

[0135] [Table 2]

[0136] These measurements make it possible to determine the minimum dosage of non-ionic surfactant relative to chitosan. A softer film, and therefore a longer elongation at break, improves comfort during application.

[0137] Without surfactant, the chitosan film remains rigid and uncomfortable on the skin (C1).

[0138] The change in the stiffness of the membrane was evaluated using the above measurements and, with a mass ratio of nonionic surfactant to chitosan equal to 1:5 (C2), a softening effect was discernible, which is essential for comfort.

[0139] Formulation A1 is comparative (marked with an asterisk), formulations A3 and A4 are according to the invention.

[0140] [Table 3]

[0141] Examples A3 and A4 demonstrate the effect of surfactants on film flexibility in the presence of pigment.

[0142] Formulations F, G, H and K according to the invention are prepared.

[0143] The mechanical properties are measured as indicated above.

[0144] [Table 4]

[0145] The results are as follows:

[0146] [Table 5]

[0147] Examples F, G, H, and K demonstrate the effect of nonionic surfactants such as poloxamers or polysorbates on film flexibility in the presence of pigments. Example K further demonstrates that citric acid (AHA) can be used in place of lauric acid.

[0148] 3. Protocol for evaluating dry abrasion resistance Some compositions are evaluated for their resistance to abrasion by non-color measurements on dry films before and after rubbing, according to the protocol detailed below.

[0149] Protocol for applying the composition on the membrane The product is applied using an applicator table (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) with adjustable speed and application distance. The table is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent movement of the substrate being applied. A contrast chart with a matte black background and a white background (1 Byco Chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831) is used. The thickness of the application can be adjusted by flattening the platform as it begins to rise using a square spreader attached to the substrate. Each end of the spreader allows for different application thicknesses ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm. The thickness chosen is 50 μm to approximate the in vivo film thickness. A 960 g weight is applied to the top of the spreader during application. The application speed is adjusted to 1 in / sec, or 2.54 cm / s. The film is allowed to dry for 24 hours at room temperature and humidity (50% RH).

[0150] [Table 6]

[0151] The comparative composition cannot be applied for the subsequent contrast ratio (CR) test, and is considered to peel off. This peeling causes the deposit to be non-uniform. Therefore, this formulation does not meet the criteria for solving the technical problems of uniformity and coverage due to the peeling.

[0152] On the other hand, the composition according to the invention has good wetting properties.

[0153] Contrast Ratio (CR) Measurement Protocol for Objectifying Coverage Color is measured with a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Contact measurements ensure the elimination of light pollution.

[0154] Selected settings: aperture 8 mm, uncertainty 0.04, SCI / SCE measurement, geometric condition d / 8°.

[0155] Measurement of the color on two backgrounds (black background BB and white background WB) makes it possible to characterize the coverage of a cosmetic foundation by calculating the contrast ratio (CR%), i.e. YBB / YWB x 100, where YBB and YWB are the luminance values ​​measured on a black background and a white background, respectively; the higher this is, the more coverage the cosmetic foundation has.

[0156] Formulation F12 is in accordance with the invention, while formulations F13 to F16 are for comparison.

[0157] [Table 7]

[0158] To achieve a fixed minimum coverage of 50%, one needs to have a minimum of 3% pigment.

[0159] [Table 8]

[0160] Formulations F19-F21 are in accordance with the invention, while formulations F17-F18 are for comparison.

[0161] In terms of coverage in the deposit, only formulations F19-F21 are significantly different from F17 (reference without chitosan).

[0162] Abrasion resistance testing protocol Testing for resistance to abrasion is performed by colorimetric measurement on the dry film before and after rubbing. Rubbing is performed by attaching a piece of fabric handkerchief (Chicopee® Veraclean™ Polish Plus) to the end 25 μm of the spreader. A 960 g weight is added to the top of the spreader during rubbing. The bench speed is set at 2.54 cm / s.

[0163] Pre- and post-rubbing color measurements are taken using the same spectrophotometric method as described above.

[0164] To evaluate the resistance to abrasion, the contrast ratio before abrasion (CR dry adhesion, %) and after abrasion (CR rub adhesion dry, %) is measured.

[0165] Percentage loss [(CR friction adhesion dry - CR adhesion dry] / CR adhesion dry] * 100 quantifies the loss of coverage and indicates the resistance of the film to abrasion: the less this loss, the more resistant the film is to abrasion.

[0166] Therefore, each CR value in the table below represents the average of six measurements.

[0167] [Table 9]

[0168] Formulations F19-F21 are the only ones that do not lose coverage.

[0169] [Table 10]

[0170] Formulations F25 to F28 are in accordance with the invention, while formulations F22 to F24 are for comparison.

[0171] Formulations F25-F28 are the only ones that do not lose coverage (ie, have significantly low coverage loss, ie, loss of 6% or less).

[0172] Oily friction resistance test The test consists of applying 15 μL of the formulation to a 4 cm diameter disk on the forearm and allowing the deposit to dry for 20 minutes. In parallel, 100 μL of oil (caprylic / capric triglyceride) is applied to a piece of fabric handkerchief (Chicopee® Veraclean™ Polish Plus). The handkerchief is then rubbed with an axial force of 200-300 grams and the stain on the handkerchief is evaluated. A positive margin with a rating of 5 / 5 corresponds to a stain-free fabric, while if the fabric is completely stained, the score is 1 / 5.

[0173] [Table 11]

[0174] Under these conditions, the compositions of the present invention perform to a result that earns a rating of 3 out of 5. Chitosan is understood to improve the deposit's resistance to oily rub.

[0175] Example 2 Comparison Data HI * A composition (not in accordance with the invention) of JP 10-265337 similar to the composition of Example 11 (emulsion foundation) called PG-10 Lauric Acid 9.00 Purified Water Qsp 100 Red pigment 10.7 Lactic acid 0.15 Chitosan (molecular weight 100kDa) 0.01 (active material%)

[0176] The mass ratio between the nonionic surfactant and chitosan for the composition is 9 / 0.01=900.

[0177] An identical composition was prepared, but containing 1% by weight of chitosan (invention, weight ratio between nonionic surfactant and chitosan = 1 / 1 = 1).

[0178] Resistance to abrasion was measured as detailed in Example 1. The results are as follows:

[0179] [Table 12]

[0180] This shows that the claimed mass ratio between nonionic surfactant and chitosan makes it possible to obtain a significantly increased resistance to friction compared to the prior art.

Claims

1. In a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and representing at least 0.01% by weight as a percentage of the total weight of the composition, said amount being strictly less than 15% by weight; b) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; c) 3% to 50% by weight of a pigment coloring material relative to the total weight of the composition, and d) Nonionic surfactants Including, A cosmetic composition, wherein the mass ratio between the nonionic surfactant and the chitosan is between 0.02 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 6.

2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight of the natural chitosan composition relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the natural chitosan has a molecular weight of 10 kDa or more, preferably 15 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, preferably between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 150 kDa, and / or the degree of acetylation of the chitosan is 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 25% or less, preferably 15%.

4. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the chitosan is extracted and purified from an edible or biotechnological fungal source, such as mushroom or Aspergillus niger, preferably Aspergillus niger.

5. 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; salts and mixtures thereof, more preferably the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid and salts and mixtures thereof.

6. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, from 0.005% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the pigment is selected from powder pigments, such as inorganic pigments, pearlescent agents and organic pigments, the inorganic pigments being preferably iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

8. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols and sugar esters.

9. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerols and C10 to C20, preferably C10, C12 or C18, carboxylic acids, such as capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid or myristic acid, preferably polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 5 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monomyristate containing 5 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof, preferably polyglyceryl-4 monocaprate, polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate and polyglyceryl-2 monooleate.

10. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is chosen from esters of sugars and C10 to C24 fatty acids, preferably esters of C12 to C20, more preferably C12 to C18 fatty acids, preferably mixtures of fatty acid esters and methylglucose.

11. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.02% to 10% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.03% to 8% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferentially in the range from 0.08% to 4% by weight, preferentially in the range from 0.1% to 3% by weight and preferably in the range from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the weight ratio between the nonionic surfactant and the chitosan is between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

13. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably between 30% and 95% by weight, more preferentially between 40% and 90%, and even more preferentially between 45% and 85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally at least one water-miscible organic solvent, preferably chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof, preferably said solvent being chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

14. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it has a pH of less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, preferably less than or equal to 6.3, advantageously between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.

3.

15. 15. A method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or keratinous appendages, wherein a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 is applied to the skin and / or keratinous appendages.

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