Composite false twist yarn, and woven or knitted fabric and clothing comprising same
The composite false-twisted yarns with varied fluff lengths and titanium oxide improve breathability and heat retention, offering a soft surface touch and natural gradation effect.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2024106559
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-07-02
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing composite false-twist yarns lack breathability and heat retention, and exhibit a monotonous appearance due to uniform fluff lengths, failing to provide a soft surface touch and natural gradation effect.
A composite false-twisted yarn comprising at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns with fluff lengths ranging from 1.0 to 5.0 mm, featuring two or more peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, and a ratio of longest to shortest fluff lengths of 0.2 to 0.8, incorporating titanium oxide and cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarns for improved breathability and heat retention.
The yarns achieve excellent breathability, heat retention, and a soft surface touch with a scraped appearance, enhancing the kasuri-style effect through alternating fluff lengths and dyeable yarns.
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Figure 2026007062000001_ABST
Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a composite false-twist yarn and a woven or knitted fabric or garment containing the same. [Background technology]
[0002] Conventionally, composite false-twisted yarns have been widely used in the field of clothing, and various proposals have been made to achieve a soft, fluffy texture and a natural, heathered appearance.
[0003] For example, a method has been proposed for producing natural-material-like polyester false-twist yarn that has a soft feel and texture, and when woven or knitted, can exhibit a finely dispersed natural flecked texture and moderate softness (see, for example, Patent Document 1).
[0004] In addition, a polyester multifilament fluffy yarn has been proposed, which has moderate bulk, elasticity, and stiffness, and when processed into fabric, exhibits a soft feel and fluffy texture similar to that of silk (see, for example, Patent Document 2).
[0005] Furthermore, a fluffy textured yarn has been proposed in which a large number of short fibers are added to a composite false twisted yarn made of multifilament yarns having two or more different yarn lengths, giving the yarn a fluffy texture similar to spun yarn and anti-pilling properties (see, for example, Patent Document 3). [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0006] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2019-94595 [Patent Document 2] Patent No. 8-35140 [Patent Document 3] Patent No. 4-185731 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0007] However, the inventions described in both documents tend to have a monotonous appearance, and do not provide the comfort of excellent breathability and heat retention that is particularly required for clothing with such an appearance. The polyester fluffy false twist textured yarn described in Patent Document 1 and the polyester multifilament fluffy yarn described in Patent Document 2 have problems with heat retention and breathability, and the appearance is also uniform because the length of the fluff is uniform, resulting in a uniform and monotonous appearance, and it is not possible to obtain a scraped appearance.
[0008] Furthermore, the composite false twist textured yarn disclosed in Patent Document 3, which is a mixture of two or more types of polyester multifilament yarns having different yarn lengths, also had problems with heat retention and breathability.In terms of appearance, as in Patent Documents 1 and 2, the length of the fluff was uniform and the length was short, at 0.5 mm or less, resulting in a monotonous appearance.
[0009] An object of the present disclosure is to provide a composite false-twisted yarn, a woven or knitted fabric, and clothing that are excellent in breathability and heat retention, and that can also achieve a soft surface touch and a scraped appearance. [Means for solving the problem]
[0010] In order to solve the above problems, the present invention has the following configuration. (1) A composite false-twisted yarn comprising at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarn, the composite false-twisted yarn comprising fluff having a length of 1.0 to 5.0 mm, the fluff having two or more peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm in a length histogram. (2) The composite false-twist yarn according to (1) above, wherein the ratio (Lb / La) of the length La of the relatively longest fluff A to the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B among the peaks is 0.2 to 0.8. (3) The composite false-twisted yarn according to (1) or (2) above, wherein the number of fluffs is 10 to 50 fluffs / m. (4) A composite false-twisted yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (3), wherein at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns includes a modified cross-section yarn. (5) A composite false-twisted yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (4), wherein at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns contains titanium oxide. (6) The composite false-twisted yarn according to (5) above, wherein the mass ratio of the titanium oxide is 0.1 to 15.0 mass % relative to the thermoplastic multifilament yarn containing the titanium oxide. (7) The composite false-twist yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (6), wherein at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns is a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn. (8) A woven or knitted fabric comprising the composite false-twist yarn according to any one of (1) to (7) above. (9) Air permeability is 50 to 150 cm 3 / (cm 2 The woven or knitted fabric according to (8) above, wherein (s) is a material selected from the group consisting of woven and knit (10) Clothing comprising the woven or knitted fabric described in (8) above. [Effects of the Invention]
[0011] According to the present disclosure, it is possible to obtain composite false-twisted yarns, woven and knitted fabrics, and clothing that are excellent in breathability and heat retention, and that can also have a soft surface touch and a scraped appearance. [Brief explanation of the drawings]
[0012] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 is a conceptual diagram illustrating one embodiment of a preferred method for producing a composite false-twisted yarn of the present disclosure. [Figure 2] FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram illustrating an example of a length histogram in the present disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0013] The composite false-twist yarn of the present invention contains at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarn. It may contain three or more types, including thermoplastic multifilament yarn and other yarns. Thermoplastic synthetic fibers are preferred as thermoplastic multifilament yarns. Examples of polymers constituting the thermoplastic multifilament yarn include polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate; polyesters such as polylactic acid; polyolefins such as polypropylene; polymers such as polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polyurethane, and polyphenylene sulfide; and mixtures of one or more of their copolymers. Using a copolymer at least in part is a preferred embodiment of the present invention, as it improves the softness of the surface to the touch.
[0014] In the present invention, the at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns may be made of the same polymer. However, to emphasize the kasuri-style appearance, a combination of composite textured yarns made of thermoplastic multifilament yarns made of the same polymer but with different dyeabilities is preferred, and a combination of different polymers is even more preferred. Furthermore, it is even more preferred that at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns contained in the composite false-twist yarn is a cationic dyeable multifilament yarn, particularly a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn. A cationic dyeable multifilament yarn refers to a multifilament yarn that can be dyed with a cationic dye, while a multifilament yarn that is substantially not dyeable with a cationic dye is called a cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn. Comprising a cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn and a cationic dyeable multifilament yarn in a composite false-twist yarn is preferred because it facilitates the achievement of a kasuri-style appearance and improves the softness of the surface. Here, "different dyeabilities" refers to the occurrence of color differences between fiber types when dyed under dyeing conditions that allow the dyeing of at least one type of fiber.
[0015] The polymer constituting the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn preferably used in the present disclosure is not particularly limited, but cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate, such as copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with an isophthalic acid component having a sulfonate group, can be preferably used. The isophthalic acid component having a sulfonate group may be a commonly used one. Specific examples include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-sodium dimethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-sodium diethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-sodium diglycol sulfoisophthalate, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-lithium dimethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-lithium diethyl sulfoisophthalate, and 5-lithium diglycol sulfoisophthalate. Mixtures of these may also be used, but 5-sodium dimethyl sulfoisophthalate and 5-sodium diglycol sulfoisophthalate are preferred due to their improved dyeability and ease of availability.
[0016] The cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn preferably has fluff, as described below. By including a cationic non-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn having at least one fluff and a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn having at least one fluff, it is possible to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn and a woven or knitted fabric containing the same that have an even softer texture with a smooth surface touch and a color that changes from dark to light over a long period, resulting in a more natural gradation effect, which is a preferred embodiment of the present disclosure.
[0017] The cross-sectional shape of the fibers constituting the thermoplastic multifilament yarn can be a perfect circle or various other cross-sectional shapes, such as a flat cross-section, a polygonal cross-section such as a triangle, a rectangle, a hexagon, or an octagon, a potbelly cross-section with a partially uneven portion, a Y-shaped cross-section, a star-shaped cross-section, etc. It is preferable that the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention contains such a modified cross-section yarn in terms of breathability and a soft surface touch.
[0018] These thermoplastic multifilament yarns may contain various additives, such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, and barium oxide; colorants such as carbon black, dyes, and pigments; flame retardants, fluorescent brighteners, antioxidants, and UV absorbers. In the present disclosure, the inclusion of titanium oxide is particularly preferred in terms of surface feel. The mass ratio of titanium oxide is preferably 0.1 to 15.0 mass% relative to the thermoplastic multifilament yarn containing it. Titanium oxide is preferably 0.1 mass% or more, and more preferably 0.2 mass% or more. By maintaining the titanium oxide concentration at the above mass% or higher, the number of protrusions on the yarn surface increases, further improving the feel of the fabric. Conversely, the upper limit is preferably 15.0 mass% or less, more preferably 5.0 mass% or less, and even more preferably 3.0 mass% or less. By maintaining the titanium oxide concentration at the above mass% or less, the number of protrusions on the yarn surface can be appropriately controlled, making it easier to achieve a soft surface feel. Furthermore, it is easier to suppress problems such as wear on guides and rollers during spinning and manufacturing processes.
[0019] The composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention contains fluff having a length of 1.0 to 5.0 mm. When the fluff length is within the above range, excellent heat retention is obtained. The fluff also provides excellent breathability. If the fluff length is less than 1.0 mm, stable processability is obtained, but a soft surface touch is not obtained, resulting in a hard texture. If the fluff length exceeds 5.0 mm, the durability of the fabric deteriorates, and there is concern about deterioration of processability and poor quality during the production of woven and knitted fabrics. Furthermore, breathability increases, resulting in a decrease in heat retention. The preferred fluff length is 2.0 mm or more and 4.0 mm or less. The length of fluff in the composite false-twisted yarn can be measured as follows.
[0020] First, a false-twisted yarn is sampled and magnified under a microscope VHX-5000 manufactured by Keyence Corporation to measure the length of the fluff. Measurement is made from the tip of the fluff of the cut monofilament to the mixed portion with the multifilament on the image. For fluff that is curved on the image, measurement is made in the multipoint distance measurement mode, by matching it with the fluff on the image for 10 samples. The average value of 20 fluffs measured per sample (20 fluffs / sample) is calculated. Specifically, the measurement can be made by the method described in the Examples.
[0021] There are no particular limitations on the manufacturing method for achieving a fluff length within the range of the present invention, but examples include the manufacturing method described below.
[0022] According to the findings of the present inventors, it has been found that the reason why woven and knitted fabrics made from conventional composite false-twisted yarns tend to have a monotonous appearance is due to the use of a single multifilament yarn. This is thought to result in uniform, consistent fluff lengths and a monotonous appearance. The fluff in the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention has two or more peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm in a length histogram. This prevents the appearance from becoming monotonous and also allows for a soft, surface-touch feel to be obtained. If there are fewer than two peaks, the fluff lengths will be uniform, preventing a soft, surface-touch feel and limiting breathability. The number of peaks may be three or more, but since too many peaks tend to result in uniformity, the upper limit is preferably 10 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.
[0023] As an example, a length histogram is created based on data for a total of 200 fluffs (mm) measured using the method described above, as shown in Figure 2. The x-axis of the histogram represents fluff length (mm) and the y-axis represents the percentage frequency. The x-axis is plotted in 0.1 mm intervals over the range from 0.5 mm to 7.0 mm. The number of peaks in the histogram distribution range of single fiber diameters is determined from the plotted data of the created histogram.
[0024] In the composite false-twist yarn of the present disclosure, the ratio (Lb / La) of the length (La) of the relatively longest fluff A to the length (Lb) of the relatively shortest fluff (hereinafter, this ratio may be referred to as the "appearance index") is preferably 0.2 to 0.8. The appearance index is preferably 0.2 or more, and more preferably 0.4 or more. When the appearance index is above the above range, the durability of the entire fabric is improved. Furthermore, the appearance index is preferably 0.8 or less, and more preferably 0.6 or less. When the appearance index is below the above range, the fluff lengths become non-uniform, resulting in a soft surface touch and excellent breathability and heat retention.
[0025] In the composite false-twisted yarn of the present disclosure, the number of fluffs is preferably 10 to 50 per meter of composite false-twisted yarn length. The number of fluffs is preferably 10 fluffs / m or more, and more preferably 20 fluffs / m or more. When the number of fluffs is above this number, a soft surface touch is obtained, resulting in a soft texture. Furthermore, the number of fluffs is preferably 50 fluffs / m or less, and more preferably 40 fluffs / m or less. When the number of fluffs is below this number, the fabric surface becomes smooth and the surface feels soft to the touch. Furthermore, improved fiber mixing can be expected, which can improve the processability and quality when producing woven and knitted fabrics. Specifically, it can be measured by the method described in the Examples.
[0026] In the present disclosure, the composite false-twisted yarn preferably has one or more, and more preferably two or more, locations where the above-mentioned fluff A and fluff B alternate over 10 cm of the composite false-twisted yarn. The alternating locations are expected to have effects such as improved heat retention due to the gaps that form between fluff A and fluff B, and improved breathability due to the gaps.
[0027] Depending on the type of thermoplastic multifilament yarn used, the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention can have clearly defined darkly dyed portions and lightly dyed portions. Furthermore, by weaving or knitting the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a soft, smooth surface and an excellent texture that combines breathability and heat retention. As a result, it is possible to obtain a kasuri-style appearance with an excellent gradation effect. Furthermore, when two or more types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns with different dyeabilities, such as a cationic dyeable multifilament yarn and a cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn, are used to produce a composite false-twisted yarn, which is then knitted, woven, and dyed, an even more excellent gradation effect and a natural kasuri-style appearance are obtained, which is a preferred embodiment.
[0028] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention comprises the composite false-twist yarn of the present disclosure. In this disclosure, woven or knitted fabric is a general term including woven and knitted fabrics. While there are no particular limitations on the amount of the composite false-twist yarn of the present disclosure contained, in order to further demonstrate the above-mentioned effects, it is preferable for the woven or knitted fabric to contain 60% by mass or more of the composite false-twist yarn of the present disclosure, and more preferably 80% by mass or more. It is even more preferable to use 100% by mass, i.e., for all of the warp and / or weft yarns that make up the woven fabric, or all of the knitting yarns that make up the knitted fabric, in order to achieve an excellent gradation effect. In order to achieve the desired design, the composite false-twist yarn can also be used in combination with other fibers as appropriate.
[0029] The weave constituting the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited. In the case of woven fabrics, the weave may be any of plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, or variations thereof, depending on the intended use. In the case of knitted fabrics, the weave may be any of plain weave, interlock weave, smooth weave for circular knit fabrics, half weave, satin weave, jacquard weave, or variations thereof, depending on the intended use.
[0030] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be subjected to processes for adjusting texture, such as weight reduction, physical processes such as nap raising and calendaring, and functional processes such as water repellency, water absorption, and antistatic treatment.
[0031] In this disclosure, the air permeability is 50 to 150 cm 3 / (cm 2 s) is preferable. The air permeability is 50 cm 3 / (cm 2 s) or more is preferable, and 80cm 3 / (cm 2 It is more preferable that the air permeability is 150cm or more. By having the above-mentioned air permeability or more, it is possible to suppress stuffiness while still having excellent heat retention. 3 / (cm 2 s) or less, and 129 cm 3 / (cm 2 It is more preferable that the air permeability is equal to or less than the above value. By having the air permeability equal to or less than the above value, heat retention can be improved. The air permeability is determined by JIS L 1096 (2020) Method A (Fragile type method), and the value is rounded to an integer.
[0032] The clothing of the present invention includes the woven or knitted fabric of the present disclosure. The clothing is preferably a jacket, coat, shirt, trousers, or skirt, which can take advantage of the excellent breathability and heat retention properties in addition to design. Furthermore, clothing using the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention in the front and / or back body is particularly preferred, as it is more likely to exhibit comfort due to its breathability and heat retention properties.
[0033] Next, an example of a method for producing a composite false twist yarn according to the present disclosure will be described, but the present disclosure is not limited to this.
[0034] First, a preferred embodiment of the method for producing a composite false-twisted yarn according to the present disclosure will be described with reference to FIG. 1, which is a conceptual diagram illustrating the process. First, a first raw yarn 1 passes through a first feed roller 3 and is drawn and heat-set between the first feed roller 5 and a third feed roller 7 via a first hot pin 5. A second raw yarn 2 is similarly processed, passing through a second feed roller 4 and is drawn and heat-set between the second hot pin 6 and a fourth feed roller 8. The two processed yarn strands pass through a heater 9 and are drawn and false-twisted and heat-set between the fifth feed roller 11 via a false twisting device 10. The two processed yarn strands are false-twisted, then fed to an entanglement nozzle 12, where they are entangled and mixed, and then fed as a composite false-twisted yarn 14 by a sixth feed roller 13 and taken up on a take-up roller 15. Each step will be described in detail below.
[0035] First, two or more highly oriented thermoplastic multifilament undrawn yarns that will form the composite false-twisted yarn are preferably drawn separately in a heating device at a draw ratio of 1.1 or more, and then false-twisted and entangled in a continuous manner at a draw ratio of 1.1 or more. Specifically, the process will be described using a cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn and a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn that is undyable (non-dyeable) to cationic dyes but dyeable to disperse dyes. The highly oriented undrawn polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn and the highly oriented undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn are preferably drawn separately in a heating device. The highly oriented undrawn yarn referred to here is preferably one having a spinning speed of 2000 to 4500 m / min and a birefringence index Δn in the range of 0.015 to 0.080. Drawing these yarns separately allows for the selection of a draw ratio appropriate for each yarn quality, making it easier to control the fuzz count, making this a preferred method for producing the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention. The drawing temperature may be varied depending on the type of yarn, and particularly when forming fluff, the drawing distance can be adjusted to an appropriate value.
[0036] The first draw ratio in the draw false twisting process is preferably 1.1 times or more and 1.6 times or less. When a fuzzed thermoplastic multifilament yarn is to be obtained, it is preferable to obtain it by draw fluffing. In this case, the first draw ratio is preferably 1.1 times or more and 1.6 times or less. A draw ratio of 1.1 times or more is preferable because the processing is stable regardless of the yarn speed and yarn breakage is suppressed. A draw ratio of 1.6 times or less is preferable because the partially oriented undrawn portion is maintained in a good state by drawing and a partially oriented undrawn portion with particularly little variation is obtained. The second draw ratio is preferably 1.1 times or more and 2.0 times or less. A draw ratio of 1.1 times or more is preferable because the processing is stable regardless of the yarn speed and yarn breakage is suppressed. A draw ratio of 2.0 times or less is preferable because the fuzz is maintained in a good state by drawing and a particularly excellent fluff feeling is obtained. The false twisting device may be of any type, such as a pin type, a triaxial circumscribing friction type, or a belt nip type, but a triaxial circumscribing friction type or a belt nip type is preferred, as they allow high-speed processing. Furthermore, to obtain fluff with two peaks in the length histogram, it is preferable to feed the yarns from different feed rollers, as described above. Fuzz with three peaks can be easily obtained by feeding the yarn from three feed rollers or by combining a yarn with two peaks with another yarn, but this is not limited to this. Furthermore, it is preferable to impart entanglement to converge the two yarns. Higher fiber strength tends to result in shorter fluff, but the length can also be adjusted by the draw ratio and temperature.
[0037] By performing false twisting simultaneously with drawing, the thick parts of the partially oriented, undrawn parts are broken by twisting and untwisting, generating fluff, resulting in a false-twisted yarn with a particularly excellent fluffiness. Fluff can also be obtained by a method in which the yarn is run in contact with a high-speed rotating grindstone, cutting some of the fibers forming the yarn surface layer of the converged multifilament yarn and raising the yarn; a method in which the multifilament yarn is twisted and then run in contact with a blade-shaped body and passed over the blade, selectively cutting only the single fibers in the yarn surface layer of the multifilament yarn and retwisting it; a method in which fluff is generated by yarn-to-yarn rubbing and then the yarn is converged by entanglement; and the number of fluffs can be increased by increasing the number of twists in the false twisting process or the number of cuts by rubbing.
[0038] The drawn yarns are then combined. The combined yarns may be paralleled using rollers before the false twisting section. Preferred interlacing and mixing methods include a taslan mixing method using a general turbulent nozzle, an interlace mixing method using an interlace nozzle, and an interlace mixing method using a general interlace nozzle.
[0039] The twist direction of the false-twist composite false-twist blended yarn may be either the S direction or the Z direction, but in order to improve the grain quality of the woven or knitted fabric, it is preferable that at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns in the composite false-twist yarn be oriented in the S direction and the other in the Z direction. [Example]
[0040] The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. The physical properties described in the text and examples were measured by the following methods.
[0041] [Fluff length, histogram] Ten randomly sampled false-twisted yarns of the present invention were magnified and inspected using a Keyence VHX-5000 microscope. The length of the fluff measured from the tip of the fluff of the cut monofilament to the mixed portion with the multifilament on the image was determined. For curved fluff on the image, measurements were taken at 10 points in the multipoint distance measurement mode, matching the fluff on the image. The fluff of 20 strands per sample (200 strands in total) was measured in mm units, rounded to the nearest tenth, and a histogram was created at 0.1 mm intervals in the range of 0.5 to 7.0 mm, as shown in Figure 2. At the peaks appearing in the histogram, the length of fluff A (La)—the longest fluff length—and the length of fluff B (Lb)—the shortest fluff length—in the fluff length range of 1.0 to 5.0 mm—were determined, and Lb divided by La (Lb / La).
[0042] [Number of fluffs, frequency] The false-twisted yarn of the present invention was run at an unwinding speed of 400 m / min and a sample length of 400 m (measurement time 1 minute), and the number of detected fluffs was measured using an S-type fluff detector DT-104 model manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd., with a distance of 1.5 mm between the running yarn and the fluff detection sensor, and the number of fluffs per meter was calculated using the following formula. Number of fluff particles = Number of detected fluff particles / 400.
[0043] Appearance Index Using the relatively longest fluff length (La) and the relatively shortest fluff length (Lb) obtained by the above method, the length was calculated using the following formula, rounded to the nearest tenth place. ·Appearance index=La / Lb.
[0044] [Titanium oxide concentration] Measurement was carried out in accordance with JIS L1013 8.26 (2010) for titanium oxide, and the average of two measurements was rounded to one decimal place according to Rule B (rounding method) of JIS Z8401, to obtain the titanium oxide concentration.
[0045] [Heat retention] The heat retention was evaluated by 10 experts using the following three-level rating system, with ◎ and ○ representing pass. ◎: The warmth is particularly strong when touched with the hand. ○: Feels a little warm when touched with the hand. ×: No warmth felt when touched with the hand.
[0046] [Air permeability] The breathability was measured using the Frazier method specified in JIS L 1096 (2020) 8.26A. The values were rounded to the nearest integer.
[0047] [Texture] The softness was evaluated by 10 experts using the following four-level rating system, with ⊚ and ◯ representing pass. ◎: A texture that feels particularly soft when touched with the hand. ○: Feels soft when touched with the hand. △: A texture that feels slightly soft when touched with the hand. ×: The texture does not feel soft when touched with the hand.
[0048] [exterior] The appearance of the fabric was visually evaluated by 10 skilled experts using the following three-level rating system: Excellent and Good were considered acceptable. ◎: Scraped appearance. 〇: Has a grainy but uniform appearance. ×: Uniform appearance.
[0049] [Organization] The knitting properties were evaluated as follows: no knitting yarn breakage was indicated as "good"; and knitting yarn breakage was indicated as "bad."
[0050] [Example 1] The first raw yarn was a 130 decitex, 36-filament polyethylene terephthalate multifilament highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.036) (semi-dull multifilament yarn) (raw yarn A) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min, and the second raw yarn was a 130 decitex, 36-filament polyethylene terephthalate multifilament highly oriented, undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.018) (cationically dyeable multifilament yarn) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min. Composite false-twisted yarns were obtained by draw-twisting them according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1. As shown in Figure 2, the fluff length histogram of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn had two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, with the relatively longest fluff A having a length La of 4.0 mm and the relatively shortest fluff B having a length Lb of 2.0 mm, the fluff count being 32 fluffs / m, and the appearance index being 0.50. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth texture on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knit fabric had an air permeability of 112 cm 3 / (cm 2 ·s), excellent heat retention and a kasuri-style appearance and texture were obtained.
[0051] [Example 2] The yarns A and B used in Example 1 were used, and draw-twisted according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the draw ratio was decreased for the first yarn and increased for the second yarn, to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, the length La of the relatively longest fluff A was 4.9 mm, the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B was 1.2 mm, the number of fluffs was 35 / m, and the appearance index was 0.24. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth structure on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 118 cm 3 / (cm 2 ·s), excellent heat retention and a kasuri-style appearance and texture were obtained.
[0052] [Example 3] The yarns A and B used in Example 1 were used and, except for reducing the draw ratio, were subjected to draw-twisting according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. 1 in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain composite false-twisted yarns. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, the length La of the relatively longest fluff A was 2.8 mm, the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B was 2.2 mm, the number of fluffs was 35 / m, and the appearance index was 0.79. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth structure on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 83 cm 3 / (cm 2 ·s), excellent heat retention and a kasuri-style appearance and texture were obtained.
[0053] [Example 4] The yarns A and B used in Example 1 were used and, except for reducing the number of twists, were subjected to draw-twisting according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain composite false-twisted yarns. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, with the relatively longest fluff A having a length La of 4.1 mm and the relatively shortest fluff B having a length Lb of 2.1 mm, the number of fluffs being 12 / m, and the appearance index being 0.51. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth structure on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 120 cm 3 / (cm 2 ·s), excellent heat retention and a kasuri-style appearance and texture were obtained.
[0054] [Example 5] The yarns A and B used in Example 1 were used and, except for increasing the number of twists, were subjected to draw-twisting processing according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain composite false-twisted yarns. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, the length La of the relatively longest fluff A was 4.0 mm, the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B was 2.1 mm, the number of fluffs was 48 / m, and the appearance index was 0.53. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth structure on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 105 cm 3 / (cm 2 ·s), excellent heat retention and a kasuri-style appearance and texture were obtained.
[0055] [Example 6] A 130 decitex, 36 filament polyethylene terephthalate multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.036) (semi-dull multifilament yarn) (raw yarn C) produced at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min was used as the first raw yarn, and the raw yarn B used in Example 1 was used as the second raw yarn. These were subjected to draw-twist processing according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, the length La of the relatively longest fluff A was 4.2 mm, the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B was 2.0 mm, the number of fluffs was 30 / m, and the appearance index was 0.48. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth structure on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 120 cm 3 / (cm 2 s), excellent heat retention, a kasuri-like appearance, and a soft texture were obtained.
[0056] [Example 7] The first yarn and the second yarn were both the same yarn C as used in Example 6, and were subjected to draw-twisting according to the manufacturing process of FIG. 1 to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, the length La of the relatively longest fluff A was 4.2 mm, the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B was 2.1 mm, the number of fluffs was 31 / m, and the appearance index was 0.50. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth texture on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 121 cm 3 / (cm 2 s), it has excellent heat retention and a simple appearance with a heathered feel, and a soft texture.
[0057] [Example 8] A 130 decitex, 36 filament polyethylene terephthalate multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence index Δn: 0.036) (full dull multifilament yarn) (raw yarn D) produced at a spinning speed of 2800 m / min was used as the first raw yarn, and the raw yarn B used in Example 1 was used as the second raw yarn. These were subjected to draw-twist processing according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, the length La of the relatively longest fluff A was 4.0 mm, the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B was 2.0 mm, the number of fluffs was 30 / m, and the appearance index was 0.50. The titanium oxide content was 12.0% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth texture on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 123 cm 3 / (cm 2 s), excellent heat retention, a kasuri-like appearance, and a soft texture were obtained.
[0058] [Comparative Example 1] The yarn C used in Example 6 was used as both the first yarn and the second yarn, and draw-twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 7, except that the draw ratio and twist number were increased, according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1, to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn had a fluff length of 0.7 mm, one peak, a fluff count of 80 fluffs / m, and an appearance index of 0.86. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth structure on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 78 cm 3 / (cm 2 ·s), the appearance was uniform, and the fabric had good heat retention and a soft texture.
[0059] Comparative Example 2 The first yarn and the second yarn were both made of yarn C used in Example 6, and were subjected to draw-twisting processing according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 in the same manner as in Example 7, except that the draw ratio and twist number were increased, to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn had a fluff length of 0.6 mm, one peak, a fluff count of 1000 / m, and an appearance index of 0.83. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth structure on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 70 cm 3 / (cm 2 ·s), the appearance was uniform, and warmth was retained and the texture was not fluffy, but yarn breakage occurred during knitting.
[0060] Comparative Example 3 The first yarn and the second yarn were both made of yarn C used in Example 6, and were subjected to draw-twisting processing according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1 in the same manner as in Example 7, except that the draw ratio was changed and reduced for each yarn, to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, the length La of the relatively longest fluff A was 10.0 mm, the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B was 4.0 mm, the number of fluffs was 32 / m, and the appearance index was 0.40. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth structure on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 130 cm 3 / (cm 2 ·s), there is a heathered feel but a simple appearance, warmth retention and a texture that does not feel fluffy, and yarn breakage occurred during knitting.
[0061] Comparative Example 4 The first yarn and the second yarn were both made of yarn C used in Example 6, and the draw-twisting process was carried out in the same manner as in Example 7, except that the draw ratio was reduced for the first yarn and increased for the second yarn, to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn, according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, the length La of the relatively longest fluff A was 6.0 mm, the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B was 1.0 mm, the number of fluffs was 35 / m, and the appearance index was 0.17. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth texture on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knit fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 132 cm 3 / (cm 2 ·s), there is a heathered feel but a simple appearance, warmth retention and a texture that does not feel fluffy, and yarn breakage occurred during knitting.
[0062] Comparative Example 5 The first yarn and the second yarn were both made of yarn C used in Example 6, and were subjected to draw-twisting processing according to the manufacturing process of Figure 1 in the same manner as in Example 7, except that the draw ratio was changed and increased and the number of twists was decreased, to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn. The length histogram of the fluff of the obtained composite false-twisted yarn showed two peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm, with the relatively longest fluff length being 6.0 mm and the relatively shortest fluff length being 1.0 mm, the fluff count being 8 fluffs / m, and the appearance index being 0.17. The titanium oxide content was 0.3% by mass. The resulting composite false-twisted yarn was knitted into a smooth structure on a 24-gauge circular knitting machine, and the circular knitted fabric was opened and subjected to relaxation scouring (temperature 95°C), presetting (temperature 190°C), dyeing with an acid dye (temperature 95°C), and final setting (temperature 170°C). The resulting knitted fabric had an air permeability of 135 cm 3 / (cm 2·s), it has a heathered feel but a simple appearance, and has heat retention and a texture that does not feel fluffy.
[0063] [Table 1] [Explanation of symbols]
[0064] 1: First yarn 2: Second yarn 3: First feed roller 4: Second feed roller 5: First Hot Pin 6: Second hot pin 7: Third feed roller 8: Fourth feed roller 9: Heater 10: False twisting tool 11: Fifth feed roller 12: Entangling nozzle 13: Sixth feed roller 14: Composite false twist yarn 15: Winding roller
Claims
1. A composite false-twisted yarn comprising at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarn, said composite false-twisted yarn comprising fluff having a length of 1.0 to 5.0 mm, said fluff having two or more peaks between 0.5 and 7.0 mm in a length histogram.
2. 2. The composite false-twist yarn according to claim 1, wherein the ratio (Lb / La) of the length La of the relatively longest fluff A to the length Lb of the relatively shortest fluff B among the peaks is 0.2 to 0.
8.
3. 3. The composite false twist yarn according to claim 1, wherein the number of said fluffs is 10 to 50 per meter.
4. 3. The composite false-twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns comprises a modified cross-section yarn.
5. 3. The composite false-twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns contains titanium oxide.
6. The composite false twist yarn according to claim 5, wherein the mass ratio of said titanium oxide is 0.1 to 15.0 mass% with respect to said thermoplastic multifilament yarn containing said titanium oxide.
7. 3. The composite false-twist yarn according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns is a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn.
8. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the composite false twist yarn according to claim 1 or 2.
9. Ventilation rate of 50 to 150 cm 3 / (cm 2 9. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 8, wherein:
10. A garment comprising the woven or knitted fabric of claim 8.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Conjugate false twist fluffing yarn
JP1992185731A
Polyester multifilament fluffed yarn and its production
JP1996035140A
Polyester false twist yarn
JP2019094595A