Cosmetic emulsion containing diisopropyl adipate and polyglyceryl ester

A cosmetic emulsion using diisopropyl adipate and polyglyceryl esters addresses the viscosity and foaming issues in silicone-free formulations, offering a pleasant sensory experience.

JP2026502796APending Publication Date: 2026-01-27BEIERSDORF AG
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2025526725
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-01-06
Filing Date
2023-12-14
Publication Date
2026-01-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic emulsions face challenges in achieving sufficient viscosity without using silicone oils and polymers polymerized by homopolymerization or copolymerization with acrylic acid, which often result in sticky formulations and poor sensory properties.

Method used

A cosmetic emulsion thickened by a combination of diisopropyl adipate and polyglyceryl esters, specifically polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, along with other components, to achieve low viscosity and reduced foaming.

Benefits of technology

The emulsion exhibits low foaming and improved sensory properties without using silicones, providing a pleasant feel and avoiding sticky residues on the skin.

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Abstract

The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and relates to a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion comprising a combination of diisopropyl adipate and at least one polyglyceryl ester, which allows thickening of the oil-in-water emulsion, and which emulsion has low viscosity.
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and relates to cosmetic emulsions thickened by a combination of diisopropyl adipate and at least one polyglyceryl ester.

[0002] Background technology Cosmetics generally not only make people look beautiful and attractive, but also contribute significantly to improving people's self-esteem and health. Therefore, a wide variety of cosmetics are used for daily cleansing and care of human skin.

[0003] Body lotions and cosmetic face care products are well-known groups of cosmetics. These formulations are usually formulated as oil-in-water emulsions. In the past, these formulations contained silicone oils and polymers homopolymerized or copolymerized with acrylic acid. These compounds provide a pleasant sensation, allowing the lotion to be easily spread on the skin and providing a refreshing, non-sticky feel. The formulations are easily absorbed. Therefore, designated polymers are often used to thicken the formulation to an appropriate viscosity so that the formulation has a thick body and does not easily run off the skin.

[0004] However, for various reasons, it is desirable to provide a formulation that does not contain both silicone and polymers polymerized by homopolymerization or copolymerization with acrylic acid.These biopolymers, such as xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, often allow for sufficient viscosity in oil-in-water emulsions.However, at the required viscosity level, the amount of these biopolymers can make the formulation very sticky.In addition, these formulations often have drawbacks, such as having a rubbery gel structure or having poor sensory properties.

[0005] Therefore, other methods and techniques are needed to increase viscosity in emulsion formulations in order to reduce the amount of biopolymer.

[0006] WO 2014 / 181747 discloses oil-based thickeners. However, these agents contain silicone structures, which are no longer desirable.

[0007] The document U.S. Patent No. 4,939,179 discloses a thickened emulsion, the thickener being isoparaffin and C8-C 22 It is an alkyl phosphate.

[0008] However, neither document can lead a person skilled in the art to the present invention.

[0009] Summary of the Invention Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the combination of the present invention allows thickening of oil-in-water emulsions. The formulations according to the present invention have low viscosity. The elastic gel structure can be reduced due to the different thickening approach.

[0010] The present invention provides a) diisopropyl adipate, b) polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and / or polyglycerin and at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, The present invention relates to a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

[0011] A further object of the present invention is to For thickening oil-in-water emulsions Diisopropyl adipate, a) polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, and / or b) polyglycerin and at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms; The use of.

[0012] Surprisingly, the emulsions of the present invention have been further noted to exhibit very low foaming levels upon application to human skin. This is particularly surprising since the formulations are formulated without silicones. In most cases, silicone oils are used as antifoaming agents. For example, dimethicone has low surface tension and does not readily dissolve in water or other oil components. As a result, it can easily migrate to and spread over the surface of bubbles that form foam upon application of cosmetics to human skin. This process causes the surface of the bubbles to become uneven, causing the bubbles to bond and break down more quickly.

[0013] All weight percentages (wt%) given below relate to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion unless otherwise specified. Where specific component ratios are disclosed in the description below, these ratios refer to component weight ratios unless otherwise specified.

[0014] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were carried out under "normal conditions", the term "normal conditions" referring to 20°C, 1013 hPa and 50% relative humidity.

[0015] In the following description, the terms "according to the invention", "preferably according to the invention" and the like always refer to the uses according to the invention, the compositions and methods according to the invention.

[0016] For purposes of this disclosure, the term "free of" means that the proportion of each substance is less than 0.05% by weight, thereby ensuring that no entrainment or impurities from these substances are included as "free" according to the present invention.

[0017] The term "skin" refers only to human skin.

[0018] Where viscosity values ​​are given in this disclosure, all values ​​relate to measurements at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR number: 807-001) using a Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. the measuring body rotates within the substance being measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a defined speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body, and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body has a viscosity range of up to 10,000 mPa·s and a speed range of 62.5 min -1 The measuring body No. 1 (item no. 200 0191) suitable for this purpose is used.

[0019] Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances listed under the name "dispersants" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants are understood to be all substances listed under the name "surfactants" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0020] The total amount of diisopropyl adipate is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0021] When polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is contained, the total amount of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is preferably in the range of 1.5 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 2.2 to 4.3% by weight, and most preferably 2.7 to 3.9% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0022] When at least one polyglyceryl ester of polyglycerin and one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms are contained, the total amount of polyglyceryl esters is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.9 to 3.1% by weight, and most preferably 1.2 to 2.3% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0023] Polyglyceryl esters include polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 dimyristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, and polyglyceryl-10 ricinoleate. Polyglyceryl-6, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate / Caprylate / Succinate, Polyglyceryl-3 Coconut, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, and Polyglyceryl-2 Caprylate are preferred.

[0024] More preferred are polyglyceryl esters selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, and polyglyceryl-6 behenate.

[0025] The most preferred polyglyceryl esters are polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate.

[0026] Therefore, among the polyglyceryl esters, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 dimyristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, betaine, The total amount of Polyglyceryl-6 Henate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate / Caprylate / Succinate, Polyglyceryl-3 Coconutate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate and Polyglyceryl-2 Caprylate is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.9 to 3.1% by weight, most preferably 1.2 to 2.3% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0027] The total amount of polyglyceryl esters is more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.9 to 3.1% by weight, and most preferably 1.2 to 2.3% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0028] It is further preferred that the total amount of polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate is in the range of 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.9 to 3.1% by weight, and most preferably 1.2 to 2.3% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0029] Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention that the emulsion further comprises at least one oil chosen from esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated, and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0030] According to the present invention, it is preferred that the total amount of esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated, and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, is in the range of 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.75 to 4.5% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0031] Preferred esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms are hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate. syl, 2-ethylhexyl coconutate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyl octanoate, 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate.

[0032] Among these esters, isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and / or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred.

[0033] Therefore, the following are listed: hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl coconut acid, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyl octanoate, 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate The total amount of preferred esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, selected from the group consisting of propyl, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate, with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, is in the weight range of 0.2 to 8.0%, more preferably 0.5 to 6.0%, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0%, and most preferably 0.75 to 4.5%, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0034] Furthermore, the total amount of isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and / or isopropyl palmitate is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.75 to 4.5% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0035] Furthermore, it is preferred that the emulsion contains at least one fatty acid triglyceride, the total amount of which, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion, is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1.1 to 6% by weight, and most preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight.

[0036] Fatty Acid Triglycerides: Cocos Nucifera Oil (Triglycerides (Fractionated Coconut Oil)), Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp. Triglycerides), C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Triglycerides, C12-18 Triglycerides, C18-36 Triglycerides, C8-12 Triglycerides, Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic Triglycerides, Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Caprylic / Lauric / Myristic / Oleic Triglycerides, Caprylic / Capric / Linoleic Triglycerides, Caprylic / Capric / Stearic Triglycerides, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl Monomaleate)) Triglyceride), hydrogenated C12-18 triglyceride, lauric / palmitic / oleic triglyceride, musteric / palmitic triglyceride, oleic / linoleic triglyceride, oleic / palmitic / lauric / myristic / linoleic triglyceride, ricinoleic / caproic / caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride and / or jojoba oil / caprylic / capric triglyceride ester, preferably caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0037] Caprylic / capric triglyceride is particularly preferred, and therefore it is particularly preferred that the total amount of caprylic / capric triglyceride is in the range of 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1.1 to 6% by weight, and most preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0038] Fatty acid triglyceride can also be part of natural oil.Preferred natural oil that can be contained are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, glycine soja oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cucumber flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, camellia sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

[0039] It is further preferred according to the invention if the emulsion comprises less than 0.1% or 0% by weight of polymers formed by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid.

[0040] Furthermore, the oil phase of the emulsion preferably has a total amount in the range of 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably 3.5 to 15% by weight, and most preferably 3.8 to 12.0% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0041] By definition, emulsifiers and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. Nevertheless, fatty alcohols are counted as part of the oil phase.

[0042] Additional compounds that can be contained in the oil phase are selected, for example, from further branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are often called Guerbet alcohols because they can be obtained by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are hexyldecanol (Eutanol® G 16, Guerbitol® T 16), octyldodecanol (Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 20), and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol.

[0043] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono- or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, for example PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol® APM).

[0044] Further oils that may be contained in the emulsions according to the invention are selected from addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units onto mono- or polyhydric C3-22-alkanols, such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, such as PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid® AP), PPG-9 butyl ether (Breox® B25), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol® E).

[0045] The further oil is preferably selected from C8-C22 fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, citric and salicylic acid esters. Such esters based on linear C14 / 15 alkanols, such as C12-C15 alkyl lactates, and C12 / 13 alkanols branched in the 2-position, are available from Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co., Hamburg under the trade name Cosmacol®, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ESI, Cosmacol® EMI and Cosmacol® ETI.

[0046] Further oils which can preferably be used are selected from symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid and fatty alcohols, such as, for example, glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC) or the esters of DE 19756454 A1.

[0047] Furthermore, it is preferred if the emulsion comprises at least one fatty alcohol containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, among which cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the corresponding mixture cetearyl alcohol are more preferred.

[0048] If at least one fatty alcohol containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms is contained, the total amount of these fatty alcohols is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, most preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0049] According to the invention, the emulsion comprises at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum.

[0050] It is preferred and advantageous if the emulsion comprises from 0.01% to 0.5%, more preferably from 0.05% to 0.4%, and most preferably from 0.10% to 0.3% by weight of at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] It is particularly preferred that the composition contains at least xanthan gum, and the xanthan gum is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, and most preferably 0.10 to 0.3% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

[0052] A more preferred emulsion of the present invention contains hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, in which case the total amount of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.50 to 2.4% by weight, and most preferably 1.2 to 1.9% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Furthermore, it is preferred that the emulsion according to the invention comprises a further short-chain polyol containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of that type are butylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2 hexanediol, 1,2 heptanediol, 1,2 propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol.

[0054] These preferred polyols are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 9% by weight, and most preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Furthermore, it is preferred if the emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

[0056] When phenoxyethanol is contained, the total amount of phenoxyethanol is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0057] When ethylhexylglycerin is contained, the total amount of ethylhexylglycerin is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1.2% by weight calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0058] Furthermore, according to the present invention, it is preferable to include at least one nonionic emulsifier. Essentially, any nonionic emulsifier can be included in the emulsion of the present invention, but some emulsifiers have been found to be particularly beneficial for achieving the described effects. Preferred nonionic emulsifiers are selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl caprylate, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

[0059] Glyceryl stearate and / or glyceryl stearate SE are particularly preferred.

[0060] When at least one nonionic emulsifier is contained, the total amount of the nonionic emulsifier is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.2 to 2.8% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0061] When at least one nonionic emulsifier selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl caprylate, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is contained, the total amount of these nonionic emulsifiers, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion, is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.2 to 2.8% by weight.

[0062] According to the present invention, it is also advantageous if further active ingredients are contained.These are advantageously selected from the group comprising sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.The active ingredients mentioned in this group are advantageously used in a total proportion of up to 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Furthermore, it is preferable that the water be contained in the emulsion in a total amount ranging from 70.0% by weight to 95% by weight, calculated based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0064] Working Example: The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions of the present invention without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values ​​in the examples are weight percentages based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0065] Examples 1 and 2 are reference examples that are not within the scope of the present invention.

[0066] [Table 1]

[0067] To evaluate the emulsions of the present invention for foam generation and leaving a whitish residue on the skin, a method was developed to analyze the whitish residue on the skin using an image analyzer and image analysis software (ImageJ).

[0068] The following steps were performed: Set up your equipment. 1. Prepare the samples and load them into the pipettes. 2. Set the metronome (96 beeps / minute). 3. Prepare a stopwatch. 4. Turn on the light box and adjust it to white light. 5. Prepare the Black Artificial Skin and Reference Card 6. Turn on the camera and set it up.

[0069] The sample is applied to the artificial skin and a photograph is taken. 1. Apply 100 μL of emulsion to the left third of the artificial skin. 2. Start the metronome. 3. Start a stopwatch and spread the product onto the artificial skin by moving three fingers back and forth to the beat of the metronome for 30 seconds. 4. Take a photo immediately after application is complete. 5. Take more photos of standard white cards.

[0070] Analyze the pictures using ImageJ (software). Result calculation: Set the relative whiteness suppression value of the standard white area (2*10cm) to 0%; Set the relative whitish suppression value for all blacks (L value < 50, mean gray value = 255) to 100%.

number

[0071] A value of 100% means that there is no whitish residue at all, and a value of 0% means that there is a noticeable whitish residue visible. The relative whitish suppression (%) is called the antifoam score.

[0072] [Table 2]

[0073] [Table 3]

[0074] Table 4

Claims

1. a) diisopropyl adipate, b) polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and / or polyglycerin and at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms; 1. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

2. the at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-10 caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 dimyristate, Polyglyceryl-10 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, and lauric acid.

2. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the polyglyceryl-1,1'-dimethyl-2,1'-propanol, 2'-dimethyl-2 ...

3. 3. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of diisopropyl adipate ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

4. 4. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is in the range of 1.5 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 2.2 to 4.3% by weight, more preferably 2.7 to 3.9% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

5. 5. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the total amount of said at least one polyglyceryl ester ranges from 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, preferably from 0.9 to 3.1% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.3% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

6. 6. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising at least one oil chosen from esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms and said linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated.

7. The esters may be hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl coconutate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyl octanoate, 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate 10. The cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 6, wherein the hydroxybenzoates are selected from the group consisting of propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate, preferably isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoates and / or isopropyl palmitate.

8. 8. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the total amount of said esters is in the range of 0.2 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.75 to 4.5% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

9. 9. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising at least one fatty acid triglyceride.

10. The fatty acid triglyceride may be a triglyceride derived from Cocos Nucifera oil (triglyceride (fractionated coconut oil)), Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp triglyceride), C10-18 triglyceride, C10-40 isoalkyl acid triglyceride, C12-18 acid triglyceride, C18-36 acid triglyceride, C8-12 acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / lauric / myristic / oleic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / linoleic acid triglyceride, caprylic / capric / stearic acid triglyceride, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl Monomaleate) 10. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 9, wherein the at least one hydroxyl group is selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyltriglyceride, ...

11. 11. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the total amount of said fatty acid triglycerides is in the range of 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 1.1 to 6% by weight, and most preferably 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

12. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein said emulsion comprises less than 0.1% or 0% by weight of polymers formed by homo- or copolymerization with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid.

13. 13. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil phase of the emulsion amounts to a total amount in the range of from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3.8 to 12.0% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

14. 14. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 13, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

15. 15. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 14, wherein the total amount of said fatty alcohols ranges from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 5.0% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

16. 16. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 15, further comprising at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, and dehydroxanthan gum, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, and most preferably 0.10 to 0.3% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. 17. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 16, further comprising hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.50 to 2.4% by weight, most preferably 1.2 to 1.9% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. 18. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 17, further comprising a short-chain polyol containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably butylene glycol, glycerol (glycerin), propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol.

19. 19. The cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 18, wherein said polyol is contained in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 9% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. 20. The cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 19, further comprising phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin, preferably the total amount of phenoxyethanol is in the range of 0.1 to 0.8% by weight and the total amount of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range of 0.1 to 1.2% by weight, each calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

21. 21. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 20, further comprising at least one non-ionic emulsifier, preferably selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl caprylate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, more preferably from glyceryl stearate and / or glyceryl stearate SE.

22. 22. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 21, wherein the total amount of said at least one non-ionic emulsifier ranges from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.8% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

23. 23. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising an active ingredient selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, preferably in a total proportion of up to 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

24. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 23, further comprising water in a total amount preferably ranging from 70.0% to 95% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

25. For thickening oil-in-water emulsions Diisopropyl adipate, a) polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, and / or b) polyglycerin and at least one polyglyceryl ester of one or more fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms; Use of.

26. The at least one polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-10 caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 dimyristate, Polyglyceryl-10 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, La 26. Use according to claim 25, selected from Polyglyceryl-5 Urate, Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate / Caprylate / Succinate, Polyglyceryl-3 Coconut, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate and Polyglyceryl-2 Caprylate, preferably from Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, and more preferably from Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate and Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate.

27. 27. Use according to claim 25 or 26, wherein the total amount of diisopropyl adipate is in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

28. 28. Use according to any one of claims 25 to 27, wherein the total amount of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate ranges from 1.5 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 2.2 to 4.3% by weight, more preferably from 2.7 to 3.9% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

29. 29. Use according to any one of claims 25 to 28, wherein the total amount of the at least one polyglyceryl ester ranges from 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, preferably from 0.9 to 3.1% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.3% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the emulsion.