Free-cut warp knitted fabric and its uses

Abstract

The present invention relates to a free-cut warp knitted fabric and its uses. The warp knitted fabric is knitted from at least a front reed yarn and a back reed yarn, and the front reed yarn and / or the back reed yarn are synthetic fibers having a stretch elongation rate of 30% to 120% and a stretch recovery rate of 15% or more, and the sinker loops of the front reed and the back reed are in different directions in the same course. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has moderate stretchability and stretchability, excellent washing durability, and the knitted fabric after cutting is less likely to fray at the fabric edge and less likely to curl in the lateral direction, and is comfortable to wear, and can be widely used in the manufacture of various clothes.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a free-cut warp knit fabric and a garment made using the same. [Background technology]

[0002] With the improvement of living standards, people's demands for the quality of clothes are also increasing. When making clothes, it is always necessary to treat the edges of cut fabrics to prevent fraying, such as overlocking. However, these treatment methods may affect the feel of the fabric and reduce the comfort of wearing. In order to improve wearing comfort, knitted fabrics that do not require special edge finishing have been developed. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a free-cut warp knitted fabric, specifically, a fabric knitted with two or more reeds using a crimped synthetic fiber yarn with a stretch elongation rate of 20 to 150% and a stretch recovery rate of 15% to 100%, the yarns of the front reed and the back reed form loops in all courses, the sinker loops are in the same direction, and the ratio of the stretch elongation rate of the front reed yarn to the stretch elongation rate of the back reed yarn is 0.1 to 1.1. Even without using spandex, the obtained knitted fabric has moderate stretchability and elasticity, and the fabric edge is not easily frayed when cut, but there is a problem that it is easily curled in the horizontal direction, making sewing difficult.

[0003] Patent Document 2 discloses a knitted fabric that is resistant to curling and fraying, specifically, the knitted fabric body includes two yarns interwoven by a warp knitting process, the two yarns include a first yarn made of 20D spandex yarn and a second yarn made of fully extinct 20D / 17F nylon yarn, both of which have a Denbigh structure, and can effectively prevent curling and fraying during cutting, but spandex has a strong elasticity, which increases the density and basis weight of the knitted fabric, making it uncomfortable to wear. In addition, spandex is embrittled by light and sweat, so the durability of the knitted fabric is poor. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0004] [Patent Document 1] Patent Publication No. 2020-51008 [Patent Document 2] CN202744760U Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0005] The present invention has been made in consideration of the current state of the prior art described above, and its object is to provide a free-cut warp knitted fabric which does not fray or curl laterally when cut and has excellent washing durability, and uses thereof. [Means for solving the problem]

[0006] The means for solving the problems of the present invention are as follows: The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is knitted from at least a front reed yarn and a back reed yarn, and the front reed yarn and / or the back reed yarn are synthetic fibers having a shrinkability of 30% to 120% and a shrinkage recovery rate of 15% or more, and the sinker loops of the front reed and back reed are in different directions on the same course. Effect of the Invention

[0007] The free-cut warp knitted fabric of the present invention has appropriate extensibility and stretchability without using spandex, does not require sewing thread at the fabric edges, has excellent washing durability, and the knitted fabric after cutting is less likely to fray at the fabric edges and less likely to curl in the lateral direction, is comfortable to wear, and can be widely used in the manufacture of various types of clothing. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0008] The knitted fabric of the present invention is knitted from at least a front reed yarn and a back reed yarn, and the front reed yarn and / or the back reed yarn are synthetic fibers having a shrinkability of 30% to 120% and a shrinkage recovery rate of 15% or more, and the sinker loops of the front reed and back reed are in different directions on the same course.

[0009] When knitting using only either the front reed or the back reed, the fabric has relatively good elasticity, but is prone to fraying because it is too thin and the binding force between the yarns is relatively weak. Therefore, the fabric of the present invention is required to be knitted using at least the front reed yarn and the back reed yarn. In the present invention, the shrinkable synthetic fiber undergoes crimping due to the moist heat during dyeing processing, improving the elasticity and elastic recovery of the knitted fabric, and the parts other than the overlapping parts of the loops of the front and back reeds are not restrained by the loops and can shrink freely, resulting in a denser arrangement of the loops and making it less likely for the yarns to fray even at the edges of the fabric after cutting.

[0010] The stretching extension rate of the shrinkable synthetic fiber is 30% to 120%, preferably 40% to 110%. If the stretching extension rate of the shrinkable synthetic fiber is less than 30%, the yarn will lack bulkiness after being knitted into loops, so gaps are likely to occur in the knitted fabric, and the difference in appearance area between the overlapping parts of the loops and the free parts that do not overlap will be small, so the loops will easily fray from the fabric edge after cutting. In addition, the higher the stretching extension rate of the yarn, the better the bulkiness, the denser the knitted fabric structure, and the less likely the fabric edge will fray after cutting, but if the stretching extension rate exceeds 120%, the knitted fabric will become thick and the wearability will decrease. In order to ensure the recovery of the knitted fabric to provide an appropriate feel to the skin and the bundling of the single yarns after cutting, the shrink recovery rate of the crimped synthetic fiber in the present invention is required to be 15% or more, and preferably 25% or more.

[0011] In the present invention, when a circular knitting structure is adopted, the elasticity of the knitted fabric is improved, but since all loops are open, the structure is relatively loose, and the yarns are easily frayed from the cut surface, and curling is likely to occur. On the other hand, when a woven structure is adopted, the curling problem does not occur, but since the yarns are not intertwined with each other, the yarns are easily frayed from the cut surface, and the knitted fabric lacks elasticity. Therefore, a warp knitting structure is adopted in the present invention. In the present invention, the warp knitting structure is not particularly limited, and it is sufficient that the structure is in the opposite direction in the same course. The loops may be combined with either closed loops or open loops, but it is preferable that the yarns of the front reed form closed loops and the yarns of the back reed form open loops, which can better solve the problem of horizontal curling of the knitted fabric.

[0012] In the present invention, the yarns of the front and back reeds jointly form loops in all courses, and the relatively tight loops are less likely to fray. If there is only one reed for the yarns forming the loops, the binding force of the loops will be weak and the needle loops will be long, so the yarns will not be bound and will be more likely to fray when cut. In the present invention, the sinker loops formed by the yarns of the front reed and the sinker loops formed by the yarns of the back reed are in different directions on the same course, and here "the same course" refers to the same course in terms of the weave structure. "Different directions" refers to the sinker loops formed by the yarns of the front reed and the sinker loops formed by the yarns of the back reed crossing each other on the same course. If the sinker loops formed by the yarns of the front reed and the sinker loops formed by the yarns of the back reed are on the same course and in the same direction, the sinker loops formed by the yarns of the front reed and the yarns of the back reed will be parallel or nearly parallel, causing an imbalance of stresses inside the knitted fabric, making the edges of the fabric more likely to curl and causing problems with curling in the lateral direction.

[0013] The raw material of the crimpable synthetic fiber in the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a fiber composed of a single component, or a composite fiber composed of two components, and is preferably a composite fiber composed of two components. Specifically, there are mentioned a single component fiber of polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), a single component fiber of polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), a bicomponent composite fiber of high viscosity polyethylene terephthalate / low viscosity polyethylene terephthalate (PET / PET), a bicomponent composite fiber of polytrimethylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate (PTT / PET), a bicomponent composite fiber of polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate (PBT / PET), polyamide 6 (NY6), polyamide 66 (NY66), polyamide 610 (NY610), polyamide 6 / polyamide 66 (NY6 / NY66), polyamide 66 / polyamide 610 (NY66 / NY610), etc. Among them, the composite fiber composed of two components may be a bimetal type or a core-sheath type. The bimetallic composite fiber has relatively good crimping properties, which can ensure the stability of the fabric edge after cutting and enhance the fraying prevention effect, making it more preferable.

[0014] In the present invention, if the ratio of the stretching extension rate of the yarn of the front reed to the stretching extension rate of the yarn of the back reed exceeds 1.1, the stretchability of the knitted fabric tends to decrease and the occurrence rate of curls also tends to increase. If the ratio of the stretching extension rate of the two is less than 0.1, there is a large difference in elasticity between the yarn of the front reed and the yarn of the back reed, and wrinkles due to uneven stress may occur on the fabric surface. Therefore, in the present invention, the ratio of the stretching extension rate of the yarn of the front reed to the stretching extension rate of the yarn of the back reed is preferably 0.1 to 1.1, and more preferably 0.2 to 1.0. In the present invention, preferably, the front reed has a Denbigh structure, and the back reed has a Denbigh or cord structure. More preferably, the front reed has a Denbigh structure, and the back reed has a cord structure. When the front reed has a Denbigh structure, the knitted fabric is more likely to stretch, and the front reed has two needles that swing horizontally, so that the yarns on each needle overlap, the tear strength of the knitted fabric is more stable, and the touch is also softer. When the back reed has a cord structure, a stable ground structure can be formed with a relatively small number of yarns. When the back reed has a Denbigh structure with two needles that swing horizontally, the knitted fabric tends to be thicker.

[0015] In the present invention, the warp density (number of courses in the vertical direction) of the knitted fabric is 60 to 120 pieces / inch, and the weft density (number of wales in the horizontal direction) is 50 to 80 pieces / inch. If the warp density and weft density are not within the above ranges, the yarns will be long and there will be many parts where the yarns are not restrained on the cut surface of the fabric, which will cause fraying easily. On the other hand, the higher the density of the knitted fabric, the less likely it is to fray from the cut surface, and as a result, the knitted fabric will be thicker. Preferably, the warp density is 80 to 100 pieces / inch, and the weft density is 60 to 70 pieces / inch.

[0016] Preferably, the knitted fabric of the present invention has a basis weight of 80 to 150 g / m 2 The knit fabric has a weight of 150g / m 2 If the thickness exceeds this range, the knitted fabric tends to become thicker, which may affect the wearability. Although fraying resistance can be improved by finishing the edges of the fabric, this may result in the fabric becoming thicker and affecting wearability, etc., so when manufacturing garments using the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the edges of the knitted fabric are left as cut and used directly as part or all of the garment, without finishing the edges. The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to examples and comparative examples.

[0017] The method for measuring each parameter according to the present invention is as follows: (1) Stretching and recovery rate of the yarn of the front reed / back reed Measured according to JIS L 1013:2010 Method A. (2) Elongation rate and elongation recovery rate of knitted fabric Measured using JIS L 1096:2010 D method (constant load), the load was 490.4cN. (3) Metsuke Measured according to JIS L 1096:2010 method. (4) Vertical density, horizontal density The fabric surface is observed using a density measuring mirror (Changzhou Depu Textile Technology Co., Ltd., Y511C) to read the number of vertical loops (vertical density) and the number of horizontal loops (horizontal density) within 1 inch of the knitted fabric.

[0018] (5) Fraying of knitted fabric after cutting A test piece measuring 5.5 cm in width and 42 cm in width was taken from the knitted fabric, and two 3 cm incisions were made at a 45° angle on the end of the knitted fabric in the width direction, and three 3 cm incisions were made at a 45° angle on the start of the knitted fabric. The left and right ends of the test piece were sewn together, and a washing test was conducted according to JIS L 0217 103:1995. After dehydration and drying, the knitted fabric was evaluated for damage to the incisions. Damage to the incisions was evaluated by the number and length of frayed areas and the fibers pulled out from the cut area. The appearance damage was evaluated on a 10-point scale as follows. 7 or less was considered a pass, and 8 or more was considered a fail. The horizontal (90°) and diagonal (45°) directions at the start and end of the knitted fabric were judged. The average value of the judged values ​​for the horizontal (90°) and diagonal (45°) directions was taken for evaluation. Evaluation was conducted on five incisions on one test piece, and the average value was taken.

[0019] <Evaluation criteria> 10: One frayed area longer than 2mm 9: One fray of 1 to 2 mm in length 8: 10 or more frays with a length of 0.8 mm or more but less than 1 mm 7: 7 to 9 frays with a length of 0.8 mm or more but less than 1 mm 6: 4 to 6 frays with a length of 0.8 mm or more but less than 1 mm 5: 3 or less frays with a length of 0.8 mm or more but less than 1 mm 4: Only one frayed area, and the length is between 0.6mm and 0.8mm 3: Only one fray, and the length is between 0.3mm and 0.6mm 2: Only one fray and less than 0.3 mm long 1: Not frayed at all

[0020] (6) Curling of knitted fabric after cutting Three test pieces measuring 25 mm wide x 160 mm long were taken from the knitted fabric. One of these was taken and treated for 15 seconds using steam in accordance with the JIS L1096:2010 H-2 method, with the test piece laid flat, without any air intake during the treatment period. The treated test piece was then placed side by side on a flat surface, and when light was shone directly from above, the projected width L1 (mm) of the narrowest shadow of the curled area was measured, and the horizontal curl (%) was calculated using the following formula. Curl rate (%) = (25-L1) / 25 x 100% The remaining two test pieces are measured in the same manner, the lateral curling is calculated, and the average value is taken as the curling of the cut knitted fabric of the present invention.

[0021] Example 1 Using an E28 Karl Mayer tricot knitting machine, a bimetallic PBT / PET false twist yarn (stretching elongation rate 87%, stretching recovery rate 25%) with 33dtex / 24f was used for both the front and back reeds, and a grey fabric with a warp density of 56 / inch and a weft density of 43 / inch was knitted with a Denbigh weave for both the front and back reeds, with the same course but different directions, and the fabric was pre-set (160℃×1min)→scouring (scouring agent 2g / L)→dyeing (disperse dye usage amount 3% owf, 130℃×30min)→softening resin treatment (silicon oil)→set (160℃×1min) to obtain a warp knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

[0022] Example 2 The warp knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the 33 dtex / 24f bimetal PBT / PET false twist textured yarn was changed to a 60 dtex / 24f PBT false twist textured yarn (elastic elongation rate 72%, elastic recovery rate 22%). See Table 1 for specific parameters.

[0023] Example 3 The warp knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the yarn of the back reed was changed to 44 dtex / 24 f PBT false twist textured yarn (stretch elongation rate 72%, stretch recovery rate 22%). For specific parameters, see Table 1.

[0024] Example 4 A warp knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the structure of the back reed was changed to a cord structure. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

[0025] Example 5 The warp knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density of the grey fabric was 33 pieces / inch and the weft density was 29 pieces / inch. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

[0026] Example 6 Knitting was carried out using three reeds, with the middle reed using a 33 dtex / 24 f bimetal PBT / PET false twist textured yarn (stretch elongation rate 87%, stretch recovery rate 25%) in a Denbigh weave, and the rest of the process was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a warp knitted fabric of the present invention. For specific parameters, see Table 1.

[0027] Example 7 The warp knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the 33 dtex / 24 f bimetal PBT / PET false twist textured yarn was changed to a 50 dtex / 36 f high stretch PET false twist textured yarn (elastic elongation rate: 48%, elastic recovery rate: 29%), and the greige density was changed to a warp density of 45 pieces / inch and a weft density of 40 pieces / inch. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

[0028] Example 8 The warp knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the 33 dtex / 24 f bimetal PBT / PET false twist textured yarn was changed to a 50 dtex / 48 f bimetal PTT / PET false twist textured yarn (elastic elongation rate: 102%, elastic recovery rate: 93%), and the greige density was changed to a warp density of 78 pieces / inch and a weft density of 66 pieces / inch. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

[0029] Example 9 The warp knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the yarn of the back reed was changed to a 50 dtex / 36 f regular high-stretch PET false twist textured yarn (stretch elongation rate: 48%, stretch recovery rate: 29%) and the greige density was changed to a warp density of 56 pieces / inch and a weft density of 45 pieces / inch. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

[0030] Example 10 The warp knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the yarn of the front reed was changed to 40 dtex / 24 f regular high-stretch PET false twist textured yarn (stretch elongation rate: 48%, stretch recovery rate: 29%). For specific parameters, see Table 1.

[0031] Example 11 The warp knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the 33 dtex / 24 f bimetal PBT / PET false twist textured yarn was changed to a 56 dtex / 24 f bimetal NY6 / NY66 false twist textured yarn (elastic elongation rate: 78%, elastic recovery rate: 45%). See Table 1 for specific parameters. The warp knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 11 were used to manufacture garments that did not require any hemming after cutting.

[0032] Comparative Example 1 Both the front and back reeds used 33dtex / 36f bimetal PBT / PET false twist textured yarn, both the front and back reeds had a Denbigh weave, and the sinker loops of the front and back reeds were in the same direction. Except for this, the warp knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. See Table 1 for specific parameters.

[0033] Comparative Example 2 A warp knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the 33 dtex / 24 f bimetal PBT / PET false twist textured yarn was changed to a 50 dtex / 24 f regular PET false twist textured yarn (stretch elongation rate: 25%, stretch recovery rate: 18%). See Table 1 for specific parameters.

[0034] [Table 1]

[0035] According to Table 1, (1) From Examples 1 and 2, it was found that, under the same conditions, the warp knitted fabric obtained using PBT / PET yarn for the front and back reeds had less lateral curling than the latter, and also had a smaller fraying evaluation value than the latter, compared to the warp knitted fabric obtained using PBT yarn for the front and back reeds. In other words, it was found that the former was superior to the latter in both lateral curling and fraying prevention.

[0036] (2) Looking at Examples 1 and 3, it was found that, under the same conditions, the warp knitted fabric in which the ratio of the stretchability of the front reed yarn to the back reed yarn is 1.2 has less lateral curl than the warp knitted fabric in which the ratio of the stretchability of the front reed yarn to the back reed yarn is 1.0, and the fraying evaluation values ​​of the two are equivalent, that is, the lateral curl of the former is superior to the latter.

[0037] (3) From Examples 1 and 4, it was found that under the same conditions, the warp knitted fabric with a Denbigh structure back reed had less lateral curling than the warp knitted fabric with a cord structure back reed, and the fraying evaluation value was also smaller than that of the latter. In other words, the former was superior to the latter in both lateral curling and fraying prevention.

[0038] (4) From Examples 1 and 5, it was found that, under the same conditions, a warp knitted fabric having a vertical density of 76 yarns / inch and a horizontal density of 55 yarns / inch had less lateral curling and a smaller fraying evaluation value than a warp knitted fabric having a vertical density of 52 yarns / inch and a horizontal density of 41 yarns / inch, i.e., the former was superior to the latter in both lateral curling and fraying prevention.

[0039] (5) From Comparative Example 1 and Example 1, it was found that, under the same conditions, warp knitted fabrics having the same knitting pattern in the same course and in the same direction had relatively large lateral curling and a relatively high fraying evaluation value compared to warp knitted fabrics having the same knitting pattern in the same course and in different directions, i.e., the lateral curling and fraying prevention properties of the former were relatively poor.

[0040] (6) From Comparative Example 2 and Example 1, it was found that the warp knitted fabric obtained using regular PET yarn (stretch elongation rate: 25%, stretch recovery rate: 18%) under the same conditions had a relatively large lateral curl and a relatively high fraying evaluation value compared to the warp knitted fabric obtained using PBT / PET yarn (stretch elongation rate: 87%, stretch recovery rate: 25%), i.e., the former had relatively poor lateral curling and fraying prevention properties.

Claims

1. A free-cut warp knitted fabric knitted from at least a yarn of a front reed and a yarn of a back reed, the yarn of the front reed and / or the yarn of the back reed being synthetic fibers having a shrink property with an elastic elongation rate of 30 to 120% and an elastic recovery rate of 15% or more, the synthetic fibers having a shrink property being composite fibers composed of two components selected from the group consisting of high-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate / low-viscosity polyethylene terephthalate (PET / PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate (PTT / PET), polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate (PBT / PET), polyamide 6 / polyamide 66 (NY6 / NY66), and polyamide 66 / polyamide 610 (NY66 / NY610), and the sinker loops of the front reed and the back reed are in different directions on the same course.

2. 2. The free-cut warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein a ratio of an elastic stretch rate of the yarn of the front reed to an elastic stretch rate of the yarn of the back reed is 0.1 or more and 1.1 or less.

3. 2. The free-cut warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the front guide is of a Denbigh structure and the back guide is of a Denbigh structure or a cord structure.

4. 2. The free-cut warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the warp knitted fabric has a warp density of 60 to 120 pieces / inch and a weft density of 50 to 80 pieces / inch.

5. The weight of the warp knitted fabric is 80 to 150 g / m 2 2. The free-cut warp knitted fabric according to claim 1,

6. 6. A garment using the free-cut warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the ends of the warp knitted fabric are in a cut state without being finished.

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