A composition comprising a skin care active ingredient and two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or greater, preferably 12.5 or greater, and more preferably 13.0 or greater, (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9.0 or less, and (d) at least one skin care active ingredient. The composition according to the present invention can enhance or improve the penetration of component (d) into the skin compared to the case where the combination of components (b) and (c) is not used.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one skin care active ingredient and at least two different types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

Background Art

[0002] There are a variety of skin care active ingredients used in the fields of cosmetic and dermatological compositions.

[0003] It is preferred that the skin care active ingredient is absorbed into the skin or penetrates the skin as much as possible. However, the skin absorption or skin penetration of such skin care active ingredients is not easy due to the skin barrier function. Therefore, one possible approach to enhancing the skin penetration of skin care active ingredients may be to use a skin penetration enhancer together with the skin care active ingredient.

[0004] For example, in WO 2018 / 097303, a combination of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and niacinamide is used in a nanoemulsion or microemulsion containing ceramide to enhance the skin penetration of ceramide.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0005]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Patent Document 3

Patent Document 4

Patent Document 5

Patent Document 6

Patent Document 7

Non-Patent Documents

[0006]

Non-Patent Document 1

Non-Patent Document 2

Non-Patent Document 3

Non-Patent Document 4

Non-Patent Document 5

Non-Patent Document 6

Non-Patent Document 7

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0007] There is still a need for a composition containing a skin care active ingredient that can enhance or improve the penetration of the skin care active ingredient into the skin based on a novel skin penetration enhancer.

[0008] An object of the present invention is to provide a composition that can enhance or improve the penetration of a specific class of skin care active ingredients into the skin by using a novel skin penetration enhancer.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0009] The above object of the present invention is (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more, (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less, (d) at least one skin care active ingredient, and (e) water can be achieved by a composition containing.

[0010] The average HLB of the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 11.5 to 14.0, preferably 12.0 to 13.5, more preferably 12.5 to 13.0.

[0011] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 3 or 4 glycerol units, more preferably 4 glycerol units.

[0012] (b) The fatty acid moiety of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 12 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 11 or fewer carbon atoms, more preferably 10 or fewer carbon atoms.

[0013] The amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0014] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, more preferably 2 glycerol units.

[0015] (c) The fatty acid moiety of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, more preferably 18 or more carbon atoms.

[0016] The amount of (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0017] The mass ratio of the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be 1 to 5, preferably 1.5 to 4, more preferably 2 to 3.

[0018] (d) The skin care active ingredient may have a logP value in the range of -4.5 to 4.5, preferably -4.0 to 4.0, more preferably -3.5 to 3.5.

[0019] (d) The skin care active ingredient may be a skin care cosmetic active ingredient, preferably a skin whitening or anti-wrinkle ingredient, more preferably selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, phenyl ethyl resorcinol, hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] The amount of the (d) skin care active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0021] The composition according to the present invention may further contain (a) at least one oil.

[0022] The amount of the (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0023] When the composition according to the present invention contains (a) at least one oil, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a nanoemulsion or a microemulsion.

[0024] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating the skin, which includes the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the skin.

Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention

[0025] As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that a composition can be provided that can enhance or improve the penetration of a specific class of skin care active ingredients into the skin by using a novel skin penetration enhancer.

[0026] The present invention is In order to enhance or improve the penetration of a skin care active ingredient, in a composition containing the skin care active ingredient, at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a higher HLB value, and at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a lower HLB value can be characterized by using them in combination.

[0027] The higher HLB value of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can belong to a higher HLB numerical range. The lower HLB value of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can belong to a lower HLB numerical range. The higher HLB numerical range and the lower HLB numerical range do not overlap with each other.

[0028] Therefore, one aspect of the present invention is (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more, (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less, (d) at least one skin care active ingredient, and (e) water A composition comprising.

[0029] The composition according to the present invention may further contain (a) at least one oil.

[0030] The composition according to the present invention can enhance or improve the penetration of the skin care active ingredient into the skin as compared with the case where a combination of (b) a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more, and (c) a second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less is not used.

[0031] The composition according to the present invention can be transparent or translucent.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention is preferably stable so that phase separation hardly occurs even after long-term storage at high temperature.

[0033] The composition according to the present invention uses, as a surfactant, a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester that can be prepared from raw materials derived from natural resources such as plants, and thus is environmentally friendly.

[0034] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can be made less sticky, and therefore can give a tactile sensation with reduced stickiness. The term "stickiness" here means the property of giving an adhesive feeling to the skin. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can give an excellent usability, particularly an excellent skin feeling after application of the composition.

[0035] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared without using a large amount of energy required by a homogenizer. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by using a small amount of energy, for example, by gently stirring the components of the composition. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly in view of its preparation method.

[0036] The composition according to the present invention will be described in more detail below.

[0037] [Oil] The composition according to the present invention may contain (a) at least one kind of oil. When two or more kinds of oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0038] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oil, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0039] (a) The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil; a polar oil such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0040] (a) The oil can be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and aliphatic alcohols.

[0041] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0043] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0044] The ester oil is preferably a liquid ester of a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 1 ~C 26 aliphatic monoacid or polyacid and a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 1 ~C 26 aliphatic monohydric alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, and the total number of carbon atoms of these esters is 10 or more.

[0045] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the ester of the present invention is derived is branched.

[0046] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristate such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate can be mentioned.

[0047] C4 ~C 22 Dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and C 1 ~C 22 Esters with alcohols, and monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C 4 ~C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0048] In particular, the following can be mentioned: diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0049] As the ester oil, C 6 ~C 30 Preferably C 12 ~C 22 Glycosides and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It should be recalled that the term "sugar" means a hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functional groups, having or not having an aldehyde or ketone functional group, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms, retaining oxygen. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0050] Examples of suitable sugars that can be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methyl glucose.

[0051] The sugar esters of fatty acids can, in particular, be selected from the group consisting of esters or mixtures of esters of the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 fatty acids. When these compounds are unsaturated, they can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0052] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] These esters can be, for example, oleic acid esters, lauric acid esters, palmitic acid esters, myristic acid esters, behenic acid esters, coconut fatty acid esters, stearic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters, capric acid esters, and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid, and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0054] More specifically, monoesters and diesters, in particular monooleic acid esters or dioleic acid esters, stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, oleopalmitic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters, and oleostearic acid esters of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose are used.

[0055] An example that can be mentioned is the product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucate(®) DO, which is methylglucose dioleate.

[0056] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylyl capric glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0058] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc., and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0060] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are the silicone oils defined above and contain one or more organic functional groups bonded via hydrocarbon-based groups in the structure.

[0061] The organopolysiloxanes are more particularly defined in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. These may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0062] When volatile, the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly selected from the following.

[0063] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide in particular, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, for example of the formula:

[0064]

Chemical formula

[0065] Silicone Volatile (registered trademark) FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide can also be mentioned.

[0066] Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, for example, a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane can also be mentioned.

[0067] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5×10 -6 m 2 / s or less at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, which is sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone in particular. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the paper published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27 - 32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25°C according to Appendix C of ASTM Standard 445.

[0068] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing mainly trimethylsilyl end groups can be mentioned.

[0069] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercially available products can be mentioned non-limitingly: - The 47 and 70047 series of Silbione (registered trademark) oil or Mirasil (registered trademark) oil sold by Rhodia, for example, 70047 V 500000 oil, - Oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia, - Oils of the 200 series manufactured by Dow Corning, for example DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s, and - Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series of General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0070] Polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), for example oils of the 48 series manufactured by Rhodia, can also be mentioned.

[0071] Among silicones containing aryl groups, polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, for example phenyl silicone oils, can be mentioned.

[0072] Phenyl silicone oils have the following formula:

[0073] [Chemical formula]

[0074] (wherein R 1 ~R 10 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 ~C 30 hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably C 1 ~C 12 hydrocarbon-based groups, more preferably C 1 ~C 6 hydrocarbon-based groups, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl groups, and m, n, p, and q are, independently of one another, integers from 0 to 900 including both ends, preferably integers from 0 to 500 including both ends, more preferably integers from 0 to 100 including both ends, provided that the sum of n + m + q is non-zero) It can be selected from phenylsilicones.

[0075] Examples that can be cited include products sold under the following names: - The 70 641 series of Silbione® oil manufactured by Rhodia, - The oils of the 70 633 and 763 series of Rhodorsil® manufactured by Rhodia, - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, an oil manufactured by Dow Corning, - The PK series of silicones manufactured by Bayer, such as product PK20, - Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

[0076] As the phenylsilicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (in the above formula, R 1 ~R 10 are methyl, p, q, and n = 0, and m = 1) is preferred.

[0077] The organically modified liquid silicone may contain, among other things, polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Thus, silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Silwet® L722 and L77, which are oils manufactured by Union Carbide, can be cited.

[0078] The hydrocarbon oil can be selected from the following: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C 6 ~C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isoparaffin, isododecane, and isodecane. - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam (registered trademark), and squalane.

[0079] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (such as liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum jelly, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohol means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohol may be straight-chain or branched.

[0081] The aliphatic alcohol may have a structure R-OH (wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, straight-chain and branched groups containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms). In at least one embodiment, R is C 12 ~C 20 alkyl and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0082] Examples of aliphatic alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] The aliphatic alcohol is preferably a saturated aliphatic alcohol.

[0084] Accordingly, the aliphatic alcohol can be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 ~C 30 alcohol, preferably a linear or branched, saturated C 6 ~C 30 alcohol, more preferably a linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 alcohol selected therefrom.

[0085] The term "saturated aliphatic alcohol" herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. The saturated aliphatic alcohol is preferably selected from any linear or branched, saturated C 6 ~C 30 aliphatic alcohol. Among the linear or branched, saturated C 6 ~C 30 aliphatic alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 aliphatic alcohols can be preferably used. Among any linear or branched, saturated C 16 ~C 20 aliphatic alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C 16 ~C 20 aliphatic alcohols can be more preferably used. Branched C

[0086] Examples of saturated aliphatic alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol can be used as saturated aliphatic alcohols.

[0087] According to at least one embodiment, the aliphatic alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] (a) The oil is also preferably selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0089] Preferably, (a) the oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol and has one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C 1 ~C 12 ) and is selected from ester oils (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated aliphatic alcohol (C 12 ~C 30 ) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0090] (a) The oil is preferably selected from polar oils, more preferably from ester oils.

[0091] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0092] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0093] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably from 0.05% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably from 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0094] [First polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] The composition according to the present invention contains at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more. A single type of (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, or two or more different types of (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.

[0095] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, particularly a nonionic surfactant.

[0096] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of from 12.0 to 17.0, preferably from 12.5 to 16.0, more preferably from 13.5 to 15.0.

[0097] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art and represents the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic moieties in a molecule.

[0098] When two or more (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

[0099] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be selected from mono, di, tri and esters beyond them of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0100] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably contains 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 3 or 4 glycerol units, more preferably 4 glycerol units.

[0101] (b) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid moiety of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 12 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 11 or fewer carbon atoms, more preferably 10 or fewer carbon atoms. (b) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid moiety of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms. (b) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid moiety of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have 4 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 11 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0102] (b) The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be saturated or unsaturated and can be selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid.

[0103] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid PG3 (HLB: about 14), caprylic acid PG4 (HLB: 14), lauric acid PG4 (HLB: about 14), capric acid PG4 (HLB: 14), myristic acid PG5 (HLB: 15.4), stearic acid PG5 (HLB: 15), caprylic acid PG6 (HLB: 14.6), capric acid PG6 (HLB: 13.1), lauric acid PG6 (HLB: 14.1), lauric acid PG10 (HLB: 15.2), myristic acid PG10 (HLB: 14.9), stearic acid PG10 (HLB: 14.1), isostearic acid PG10 (HLB: 13.7), oleic acid PG10 (HLB: 13.0), coconut fatty acid PG10 (HLB: 16), and mixtures thereof.

[0104] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid PG3 (HLB: about 14), caprylic acid PG4 (HLB: 14), lauric acid PG4 (HLB: about 14), capric acid PG4 (HLB: 14), and mixtures thereof.

[0105] The amount of the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0106] On the other hand, the amount of the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0107] The amount of the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0108] The mass ratio of the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the amount of (a) oil (if present) in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.6 to 1.2, preferably 0.7 to 1.1, more preferably 0.8 to 1.0.

[0109] [Second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] The composition according to the present invention contains at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less. A single type of (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, or two or more different types of (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.

[0110] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, particularly a nonionic surfactant.

[0111] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 5.0 to 10.0, preferably 6.0 to 9.5, more preferably 7.0 to 9.0.

[0112] When two or more (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

[0113] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters and esters beyond them of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0114] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably contains 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, more preferably 2 glycerol units.

[0115] (c) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid moiety of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, more preferably 18 or more carbon atoms. (c) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid moiety of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may contain 30 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 24 or fewer carbon atoms, more preferably 20 or fewer carbon atoms. (c) The fatty acid or fatty acid moiety for the fatty acid moiety of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have 14 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 18 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0116] (c) The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be saturated or unsaturated and can be selected from myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.

[0117] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be selected from the group consisting of stearic acid PG2 (HLB: 5.0), distearic acid PG2 (HLB: 4), isostearic acid PG2 (HLB: 8), diisostearic acid PG2 (HLB: 3.2), triisostearic acid PG2 (HLB: 3), sesquisoisostearic acid PG2 (HLB: about 4), oleic acid PG2 (HLB: 8), sesquioleic acid PG2 (HLB: 5.3), distearic acid PG3 (HLB: 5), diisostearic acid PG3 (HLB: 5), diya fatty acid PG3 (HLB: 7), hexastearic acid PG5 (HLB: 4.0), trioleic acid PG5 (HLB: 7.0), pentaoleic acid PG10 (HLB: 6.4), sesquicaprylic acid PG2 (HLB: about 8), capric acid PG2 (HLB: 9.5), lauric acid PG2 (HLB: 8.5), myristic acid PG2 (HLB: 10), isopalmitic acid PG2 (HLB: 9), oleic acid PG4 (HLB: 10), stearic acid PG4 (HLB: 9), isostearic acid PG4 (HLB: 8.2), distearic acid PG6 (HLB: 8), distearic acid PG10 (HLB: about 9), tristearic acid PG10 (HLB: 8), diisostearic acid PG10 (HLB: 10), triisostearic acid PG10 (HLB: 8), triya fatty acid PG10 (HLB: 9), and mixtures thereof.

[0118] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably selected from the group consisting of stearic acid PG2 (HLB: 5.0), distearic acid PG2 (HLB: 4), isostearic acid PG2 (HLB: 8), diisostearic acid PG2 (HLB: 3.2), triisostearic acid PG2 (HLB: 3), sesquisoisostearic acid PG2 (HLB: about 4), oleic acid PG2 (HLB: 8), sesquioleic acid PG2 (HLB: 5.3), distearic acid PG3 (HLB: 5), diisostearic acid PG3 (HLB: 5), dipalmitic acid PG3 (HLB: 7), sesquicaprylic acid PG2 (HLB: about 8), capric acid PG2 (HLB: 9.5), lauric acid PG2 (HLB: 8.5), myristic acid PG2 (HLB: 10), isopalmitic acid PG2 (HLB: 9), oleic acid PG4 (HLB: 10), stearic acid PG4 (HLB: 9), isostearic acid PG4 (HLB: 8.2), and mixtures thereof.

[0119] The amount of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0120] On the other hand, the amount of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0121] The amount of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0122] The mass ratio of the amount of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the amount of the (a) oil (when present) in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.1 to 0.9, preferably 0.2 to 0.7, more preferably 0.3 to 0.5.

[0123] [Amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] According to the present invention, the mass ratio of ((b) the total amount of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester) / (a) the amount of oil (if present) may be 3.0 or less, preferably 2.0 or less, more preferably 1.5 or less.

[0124] Conventionally, the mass ratio of the amount of glyceryl fatty acid ester / oil (if present) is much higher, for example, 6.0.

[0125] Therefore, in the composition according to the present invention, the total amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be reduced or limited.

[0126] Since the present invention can reduce the total amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, the composition according to the present invention can give a non-greasy touch, or can give a touch with even less greasiness.

[0127] The mass ratio of ((b) the total amount of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester) / (a) the amount of oil (if present) is preferably more than 0.1, preferably more than 0.2, more preferably more than 0.3.

[0128] On the other hand, according to the present invention, the mass ratio of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / (c) the amount of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, more preferably 2 or more, and may be 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, more preferably 3 or less; it may be 1 to 5, preferably 1.5 to 4, more preferably 2 to 3.

[0129] [Average HLB of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] The average HLB values of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be calculated as the weighted average of all the first and second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

[0130] The average HLB of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 11.5 or more, preferably 12.0 or more, more preferably 12.5 or more.

[0131] The average HLB of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 14.0 or less, preferably 13.5 or less, more preferably 13.0 or less.

[0132] Therefore, in one embodiment of the present invention, the average HLB of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 11.5 to 14.0, preferably 12.0 to 13.5, more preferably 12.5 to 13.0.

[0133] [Skin care active ingredient] The composition according to the present invention contains (d) at least one skin care active ingredient. A single type of (d) skin care active ingredient may be used, or two or more different types of (d) skin care active ingredients may be used in combination.

[0134] The (d) skin care active ingredient preferably has a logP value in the range of -4.5 to 4.5, preferably -4.0 to 4.0, more preferably -3.5 to 3.5.

[0135] The log P value is the base-10 logarithm of the apparent partition coefficient of octan-1-ol / water. The log P value is known and is determined by a standard test that determines the concentration of the (c) compound in octan-1-ol and water. log P can be calculated by the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value may also be calculated using a number of commercially available software packages, which determine log P as a function of the molecular structure. As an example, the Epiwin software manufactured by the US Environmental Protection Agency can be mentioned.

[0136] This value may in particular be calculated using ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris software V4.67; this value can also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There are also Internet sites that provide approximate values (address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).

[0137] (d) The skin care active ingredient may be in the form of a salt. Examples of salts of the (d) skin care active ingredient include conventional, non-toxic salts of the said compound, for example those formed from an acid or from a base.

[0138] (d) The skin care active ingredient is preferably a skin care cosmetic active ingredient, more preferably a skin whitening ingredient or a skin anti-aging ingredient, for example an anti-wrinkle ingredient.

[0139] (d) Examples of the skin care active ingredient include vitamin B3 and derivatives.

[0140] Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, has the following formula:

[0141]

Chemical formula

[0142] (wherein R can be -CONH 2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH 2 OH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH 2 -COOH (nicotinuric acid), or -CO-NH-OH (nicotinyl hydroxamic acid)) is a compound. Niacinamide is preferred.

[0143] Examples of vitamin B3 derivatives that can be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen group of -CONH 2 , products from the reaction of carboxylic acids and amino acids, and esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or palmitic acid.

[0144] The following derivatives can also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotin anilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, phenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methyl isonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate, and sodium nicotinate.

[0145] Other vitamin B3 derivatives that can also be mentioned include inorganic salts such as chlorides, bromides, iodides, or carbonates, and organic salts such as salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, for example, acetates, salicylates, glycolates, lactates, malates, citrates, mandelates, tartrates, etc.

[0146] (d) As skin care active ingredients, ascorbic acid and its derivatives can be mentioned.

[0147] Ascorbic acid is usually extracted from natural products and is generally in the L-form.

[0148] Due to its chemical structure (α-ketolactone), ascorbic acid is very sensitive to certain environmental parameters, such as light, heat, and aqueous media. Therefore, it may be advantageous to use ascorbic acid in the form of, for example, sugar esters of ascorbic acid, or metal salts, alkali metal salts, esters, and derivatives or analogs selected from sugars of phosphorylascorbic acid.

[0149] The sugar esters of ascorbic acid that can be used in the present invention are, inter alia, glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, and N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives of ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof. More specifically, they are ascorbyl glucosides, for example, ascorbyl-2-glucoside, 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid, or 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and methods for preparing them are described in particular in documents EP-A-0 487 404, EP-A-0 425 066, and JP-A-05 213 736.

[0150] Regarding the metal salts of phosphorylascorbic acid, they can be selected from alkali metal salts of ascorbyl phosphate, especially sodium ascorbyl phosphate, alkaline earth metal salts of ascorbyl phosphate, and transition metal salts of ascorbyl phosphate.

[0151] Ascorbic acid precursors, such as activator amides and activator sugar derivatives, can also be used, and these require protease or peptidase, and glycosidase, respectively, as enzymes for releasing ascorbic acid in situ. Such compounds are described in Patent EP 0 667 145.

[0152] Activator sugar derivatives are, inter alia, selected from C 3 ~C 6 sugar derivatives. These are, inter alia, selected from glucosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, galactosyl, and N-acetylgalactosamine derivatives, N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives, and sialic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0153] The second ascorbic acid precursor can be selected from derivatives that are hydrolyzed by other enzymes, such as esterase, phosphatase, sulfatase, etc. According to the present invention, the second activator precursor can be, for example, a phosphate ester; a sulfate ester; a palmitic acid ester; an acetic acid ester; a propionic acid ester; a ferulic acid ester; and generally, an alkyl or acyl ester of an activator; an acyl or alkyl ether. The acyl and alkyl groups particularly contain 1 to 30 carbon atoms. 3-O-ethylascorbic acid can be mentioned as a skin care active ingredient.

[0154] In particular, the second precursor may be an ester derived from a reaction with a mineral acid, such as a sulfate ester or a phosphate ester, and reacts with sulfatase or phosphatase upon contact with the skin. The second precursor may be an acyl or alkyl ester derived from a reaction with an organic acid, such as palmitic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, nicotinic acid, 1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid, or ferulic acid, and reacts with a specific skin esterase.

[0155] Other derivatives are described, for example, in Patent EP 1 430 883.

[0156] Ascorbic acid analogs include, more specifically, its salts, especially alkali metal salts such as sodium ascorbate, its esters, especially acetic acid esters, propionic acid esters, or palmitic acid esters, etc., or its sugars, especially glycosyl ascorbic acid, etc.

[0157] (d) As a skin care active ingredient, resorcinol derivatives can be mentioned.

[0158] Resorcinol derivatives are preferably derivatives substituted at the 4-position, such as 4-alkylresorcinol, more preferably phenylethylresorcinol, 4-n-butylresorcinol, and 4-(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl)benzene-1,3-diol. In particular, it may be phenylethylresorcinol due to its whitening effect. Phenylethylresorcinol is also referred to as 4-(1-phenylethyl)-1,3-benzenediol and is represented by the following chemical formula. Phenylethylresorcinol can be obtained, for example, from Symrise Corp (product name: Symwhite 377 (registered trademark)).

[0159] [Chemical formula]

[0160] Other examples of resorcinol derivatives include the following: 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 4,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,4-dimethyl-1,3-benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine, 5-methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzyl alcohol, 2-methoxyresorcinol, 4-methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-dihydroxytoluene monohydrate, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2',4'-dihydroxyacetophenone, 3',5'-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-propylresorcinol, 2,4-dihydroxy-1,3,5-trimethylbenzene, 3,5-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,6-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzyl alcohol, 3,5-dihydroxyanisole hydrate, 4-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 2-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 5-aminobenzene-1,3-diol hydrochloride, 2',4'-dihydroxypropiophenone, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylacetophenone, (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, (3,5-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4'-methylacetophenone, 4-n-butylresorcinol, 2,4-diethyl-1,3-benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylbenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 2-ethyl-5-methoxybenzene-1,3-diol, 4-amino-3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxyacetophenone monohydrate, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine hydrochloride, 4,6-dichlororesorcinol, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylpropiophenone, 1-(3-ethyl-2,6-dihydroxyphenyl)ethan-1-one, 2',6'-dihydroxy-4'-methoxyacetophenone, 1-(2,6-Hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)ethan-1-one, 3(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)propionic acid, and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoic acid.,

[0161] (d) As a skin care active ingredient, C-glycoside derivatives can be mentioned.

[0162] The C-glycoside derivatives that can be present in the composition according to the present invention are of the following general formula (II):

[0163]

Chemical formula

[0164] (wherein, R is an unsubstituted linear C 1 ~C 4 , especially C 1 ~C 2 alkyl group, especially methyl, S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, and L-fucose, especially D-xylose, X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, and -CH(NH 2 )-, preferably a -CH(OH)- group) compounds, as well as salts thereof acceptable as cosmetics, solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.

[0165] Non-limiting examples of C-glycoside derivatives that are particularly suitable for use in the present invention include, inter alia, the following derivatives: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane, and also its salts, its solvates such as hydrates, which are acceptable as cosmetics, and its optical isomers can be mentioned.

[0166] According to certain embodiments, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, still more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, may advantageously be used for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention.

[0167] According to certain embodiments, the C-glycoside derivative suitable for use in the present invention is advantageously also known as C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, especially as a 30% by weight solution in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60 / 40), sold by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBB®, and may be hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol. According to one embodiment, the C-glycoside derivative is in the form of a solution, in which the C-glycoside derivative is present in an amount of 30% by weight based on the total weight of the solution, and the remainder is a mixture of water and propylene glycol.

[0168] Salts of C-glycoside derivatives suitable for use in the present invention may include physiologically acceptable salts of these conventional compounds, for example, salts formed from organic or mineral acids. Examples that can be cited include salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid. Salts of organic acids that may contain one or more carboxylic acid groups, sulfonic acid groups, or phosphonic acid groups can also be cited. These may be linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic acids, or aromatic acids. These acids may also contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example, in the form of a hydroxyl group. In particular, propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid can be cited.

[0169] Solvates acceptable for the above compounds include conventional solvates, for example, those formed during the final step of the preparation of the compounds due to the presence of a solvent. Examples that can be cited include solvates due to the presence of water, or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0170] C-glycoside derivatives suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained, in particular, by the synthesis methods described in the document WO 02 / 051 828, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0171] (d) As skin care active ingredients, salicylic acid and its derivatives can be cited. Derivatives of salicylic acid have the formula (III):

[0172]

Chemical formula

[0173] (wherein, The R group represents a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms and one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to a carbonyl group directly or via a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 2 to 7 carbon atoms, and the groups may be the same or different, and is optionally substituted by one or more substituents selected from (a) a halogen atom, (b) a trifluoromethyl group, (c) a hydroxyl group in free form or esterified by an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl functional group in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms. R' is a hydroxyl group) It can be represented by. The salicylic acid derivative may be in the form of a salt derived from an inorganic base or an organic base.

[0174] (d) It is more preferably selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, phenyl ethyl resorcinol, hydroxyphenyltetrahydropyrantriol, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof as the skin care active ingredient.

[0175] The amount of the (d) skin care active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition.

[0176] On the other hand, the amount of the (d) skin care active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less based on the total mass of the composition.

[0177] The amount of the (d) skin care active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0178] [Water] The composition according to the present invention contains (e) water.

[0179] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by mass or more, preferably 70% by mass or more, more preferably 80% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0180] On the other hand, the amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by mass or less, preferably 90% by mass or less, more preferably 85% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0181] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 60% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 70% by mass to 90% by mass, more preferably 80% by mass to 85% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0182] [Polyol] The composition according to the present invention may further contain at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, or two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.

[0183] The term "polyol" as used herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include sugars or their derivatives. Sugar derivatives include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a sugar, and sugars or sugar alcohols in which one or more hydrogen atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof are replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0184] The polyol contains at least two hydroxy groups, preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups, and is a C 2 ~C 12 polyol, preferably a C 2 ~C 9 polyol.

[0185] The polyol may be a natural polyol or a synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0186] The polyol can be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3 - propanediol, 1,5 - pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (with 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups), and sugars such as sorbitol.

[0187] The amount of polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0188] On the other hand, the amount of polyol in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 15% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0189] Therefore, the polyol can be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount in the range of 0.01% by mass to 25% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 20% by mass, for example 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0190] [Other components] The composition according to the present invention may contain one or more monohydric alcohols that are in a liquid form at room temperature (25°C), such as linear or branched monohydric alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol, and hexanol.

[0191] The amount of the monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0192] On the other hand, the amount of the monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0193] Therefore, the amount of the monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0194] The composition according to the present invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, excluding the components described above, such as thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants, antioxidants, colorants, chelating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersants, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, co-preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0195] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be free of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters containing five or more glycerol units such as PG5 laurate. The term "free" here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain polyglyceryl fatty acid esters containing five or more glycerol units in a limited amount. However, the amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester containing five or more glycerol units is preferably limited to less than 1% by mass, more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, even more preferably less than 0.01% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain polyglyceryl fatty acid esters containing five or more glycerol units.

[0196] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be free of polyoxyethylene nonionic surfactants. The term "free of" here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain polyoxyethylene nonionic surfactants in a limited amount. However, the amount of the polyoxyethylene nonionic surfactant is preferably limited to less than 1% by mass, more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.01% by mass based on the total mass of the composition. Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain a polyoxyethylene nonionic surfactant.

[0197] (Preparation) The composition of the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and, if necessary, the optional components described above.

[0198] The methods and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0199] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared without using a large amount of energy required by a homogenizer. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by using a small amount of energy, for example, by gently stirring the components of the composition. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly in view of its preparation method.

[0200] [Form] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not limited.

[0201] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a nanoemulsion or a microemulsion when the composition according to the present invention contains (a) at least one oil.

[0202] "Microemulsion" can be defined in two ways, namely, in a broad sense and in a narrow sense. That is, in one case, a microemulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a three-component system having three components: an oil component, an aqueous component, and a surfactant ("narrow-sense microemulsion"). In the second case, among typical emulsion systems that are thermodynamically unstable, a microemulsion further includes an emulsion that exhibits a transparent or translucent appearance due to its smaller particle size ("broad-sense microemulsion") (Satoshi Tomomasa et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). As used herein, "microemulsion" refers to the "narrow-sense microemulsion", that is, a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase.

[0203] A microemulsion refers to any one of the following states: an O / W (oil-in-water) type microemulsion in which oil is solubilized by micelles, a W / O (water-in-oil) type microemulsion in which water is solubilized by reverse micelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the aggregation number of surfactant molecules becomes infinite, and as a result, both the aqueous phase and the oil phase have a continuous structure.

[0204] A microemulsion can have a dispersed phase with a particle size of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, more preferably 20 nm or less, as measured by laser particle size analysis.

[0205] "Nanoemulsion" here means an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase having a size of less than 350 nm, and this dispersed phase is stabilized by the crowns of nonionic surfactants (b) and (c) that can optionally form a lamellar type liquid crystal phase at the dispersed phase / continuous phase interface. In the absence of a specific opacifying agent, the transparency of the nanoemulsion results from the small size of the dispersed phase, and this small size is obtained by the use of mechanical energy.

[0206] A nanoemulsion can be distinguished from a microemulsion by its structure. Specifically, a microemulsion is, for example, a thermodynamically stable dispersion formed from micelles formed by components (b) and (c) and swollen with component (a). Furthermore, a microemulsion does not require substantial mechanical energy for preparation.

[0207] A nanoemulsion can have a dispersed phase with a particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, more preferably 100 nm or less, as measured by laser particle size analysis.

[0208] The composition according to the present invention is preferably in the form of an O / W type emulsion containing an oil phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed oil phase may be oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

[0209] Since the O / W type configuration or structure consists of an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, it has an aqueous phase on the outside. Therefore, when the composition according to the present invention has an O / W type configuration or structure, it can provide a comfortable feeling of use due to the immediate fresh feeling imparted by the aqueous phase.

[0210] (a) When the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W type emulsion, it is more preferable that the particle size of the oil is 35 nm or less, preferably 30 nm or less, more preferably 25 nm or less. The particle size can be measured by the dynamic light scattering method. The particle size measurement can be performed, for example, by a particle size analyzer ELSZ-2000 series commercially available from Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.

[0211] The particle size may be the volume average particle diameter or the number average particle diameter, preferably the volume average particle diameter.

[0212] The composition according to the present invention can be made transparent.

[0213] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (e.g., turbidity can be measured using a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm in height) and a 2100Q (commercially available from Hach Company) having a tungsten filament bulb capable of emitting visible light (between 400 nm and 800 nm, preferably 400 - 500 nm)). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The blank can be determined using distilled water.

[0214] The composition according to the invention has a turbidity of 150 NTU or less, preferably 130 NTU or less, more preferably 110 NTU or less.

[0215] [Method and Use] The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin.

[0216] The composition according to the invention can be used for non - therapeutic methods such as cosmetic methods for treating the skin by applying it to the skin.

[0217] Accordingly, the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the invention to the skin.

[0218] The invention may also relate to the use of the composition according to the invention as a cosmetic, such as a skin care product, or in a cosmetic.

[0219] In other words, the composition according to the invention can be used as a cosmetic as it is. Alternatively, the composition according to the invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic. For example, the composition according to the invention can be added to or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic.

[0220] Skin care products may be, for example, lotions, creams, serums, and sunscreens.

[0221] Another aspect of the present invention also relates to (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more, (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less, (d) at least one skin care active ingredient, and (e) water and relates to a method for preparing a composition comprising a step of mixing them.

[0222] The mixing step is preferably carried out by a so-called low-energy process that does not use a special mechanical stirrer such as a homogenizer that consumes a large amount of energy. The low-energy process can be carried out by simply gently stirring the components (b) to (e).

[0223] The above composition in the use and method according to the present invention may further comprise (a) at least one oil. In this case, the above composition in the use and method according to the present invention is preferably in the form of an O / W type nanoemulsion or microemulsion.

[0224] Another aspect of the present invention is for enhancing or improving the skin penetration of (d) at least one skin care active ingredient in a composition containing (e) water, or in a composition containing (a) at least one oil and (e) water, preferably in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more, and (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less and relates to their use.

[0225] The present invention also relates to (e) in a composition containing water, or in a composition containing (a) at least one oil and (e) water, preferably in the form of a nanoemulsion or a microemulsion, (d) at least one skin care active ingredient as a skin penetration enhancer for (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, more preferably 13.0 or more, and (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, more preferably 9.0 or less relating to the use of.

[0226] The above description regarding components (b) to (e) of the composition according to the present invention, and optional components including component (a), can be applied to the components of the use and method according to the present invention. The description regarding the preparation and form of the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to the preparation and form of the composition described in the above use and method.

Examples

[0227] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0228] (Examples 1 to 9、11、 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 18) Examples 1 to shown in Tables 1 to 6 9、11、 12 and the following compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 18 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Tables 1 to 6 as follows. All numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Tables 1 to 6 are based on "mass%" of the active material.

[0229]

Table 1A

[0230]

Table 1B

[0231]

Table 2A

[0232]

Table 2B

[0233]

Table 3A

[0234]

Table 3B

[0235]

Table 4A

[0236]

Table 4B

[0237]

Table 5A

[0238]

Table 5B

[0239]

Table 6A

[0240]

Table 6B

[0241] [Evaluation] (Stability) Examples 1 to 9、11、 The compositions according to Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 18 were maintained in an incubator at 45 °C for 1 month. The appearance of the compositions was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0242] Good: No phase separation was observed Poor: Phase separation was observed

[0243] The results are shown in the rows marked "Stability" in Tables 1 to 6.

[0244] (Penetration amount of active ingredient) The experiment of the penetration test was carried out in a Franz diffusion cell (Hanson) using a Strat-M membrane (Millipore, diameter 15 mm). This device consisted of a donor part and a receptor part, and the Strat-M membrane was between the donor part and the receptor part. The receptor part with a predetermined volume was filled with a receiving solution (0.25 mass% Tween 80 / deionized water) maintained at a temperature of 32 °C, and this was continuously stirred by a small magnetic bar. Examples 1 to 9、11、 12 and each composition according to Comparative Examples 1 to 18 were spread on the membrane of the donor part in an amount of 30 mg / cm 2 . After 5 hours, 200 μl of the receiving solution was taken out from the receptor part, and in order to maintain the same penetration conditions, the same amount of fresh receiving solution was supplied to the receptor part. The taken-out receiving solution was analyzed by HPLC to determine the amount of the active ingredient in the receiving solution. The percentage of the active ingredient that passed through the membrane was calculated by dividing the detected amount of the active ingredient in the receiving solution by the amount of the active ingredient spread on the membrane.

[0245] The results are shown in the rows marked "Penetration amount of active ingredient" in Tables 1 to 6.

[0246] The comparison between Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 demonstrates that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the emulsion, the penetration of the active ingredient (ascorbyl glucoside) is enhanced as compared with the use or non-use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0247] Example 2 demonstrates that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, the penetration of the active ingredient (ascorbyl glucoside) is enhanced even when no oil is used.

[0248] The comparison between Example 3 and Comparative Examples 4 to 6 demonstrates that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the emulsion, the penetration of the active ingredient (hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) is enhanced as compared with the use or non-use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0249] Example 4 demonstrates that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, the penetration of the active ingredient (hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) is enhanced even when no oil is used.

[0250] The comparison between Example 5 and Comparative Examples 7 to 9 demonstrates that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the emulsion, the penetration of the active ingredient (3-O-ethylascorbic acid) is enhanced as compared with the use or non-use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0251] Example 6 demonstrates that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, the penetration of the active ingredient (3-O-ethylascorbic acid) is enhanced even when no oil is used.

[0252] The comparison between Example 7 and Comparative Examples 10 to 12 demonstrates that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the emulsion, the penetration of the active ingredient (niacinamide) is enhanced as compared with the use or non-use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0253] Example 8 demonstrated that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, the penetration of the active ingredient (niacinamide) was enhanced even when no oil was used.

[0254] The comparison between Example 9 and Comparative Examples 13 to 15 demonstrated that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the emulsion, the penetration of the active ingredient (salicylic acid) was enhanced compared to the use or non-use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0256] The comparison between Example 11 and Comparative Examples 16 to 18 demonstrated that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in the emulsion, the penetration of the active ingredient (phenyl ethyl resorcinol) was enhanced compared to the use or non-use of a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.

[0257] Example 12 demonstrated that by using two types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, the penetration of the active ingredient (phenyl ethyl resorcinol) was enhanced even when no oil was used.

Claims

1. (b) At least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, (c) At least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, (d) At least one skin care active ingredient selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, phenyl ethyl resorcinol, hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, and mixtures thereof, and (e) Water A composition comprising: (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester contains 2 to 4 glycerol units, and (b) the fatty acid moiety of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester contains 12 or fewer carbon atoms, The amount of the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester contains 2 to 4 glycerol units, and (c) the fatty acid moiety of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester contains 14 or more carbon atoms, The amount of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass based on the total mass of the composition, The amount of the (d) skin care active ingredient in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the average HLB of the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is in the range of 11.5 to 14.

0.

3. (b) The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester contains 4 glycerol units.

4. (b) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty acid moiety of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is in the range of 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

6. (c) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester contains 2 glycerol units.

7. (c) The fatty acid moiety of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester contains 18 or more carbon atoms, and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the mass ratio of the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is 1 to 5.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising (a) at least one kind of oil.

11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the amount of (a) the oil in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

12. The composition according to claim 10 or 11, which is in the form of a nanoemulsion or a microemulsion.

13. A cosmetic method for treating the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 to the skin.

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