Cosmetic composition with gloss and long-lasting effect

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oil phase and at least: The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a) a phenylsilicone oil of formula (I) [Chem1], wherein Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR' represents an -OSiMe group, y is in the range of 1 to 1000, and z is in the range of 1 to 1000; b) a C8-C30 fatty alcohol; c) a branched dextrin ester; and d) preferably a lipophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of: (i) a silicone acrylate polymer, an acrylate polymer containing an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms, and a copolymer of an acrylate and an acrylamide; (ii) a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and an alkene having at least 18 carbon atoms; and (iii) a mixture thereof; and its use, in particular for lips, as a makeup to provide improved gloss and gloss and color durability.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and in particular to cosmetic compositions having gloss and long-lasting gloss.

[0002] Lip makeup products have been known in the past in liquid, semi-liquid or solid (stick) form with color persistence.Although glossy lip makeup products are also known, it is difficult to combine glossiness and gloss persistence, especially in one and the same composition.

[0003] It is known that "two-step" lip makeup products are effective, such as applying a first composition to provide color, and applying a second composition to deposit a glossy film.However, there is still a need to develop a composition that can be applied easily and quickly in a single step, while maintaining comfort, and can improve glossiness and both color and gloss persistence.

[0004] The applicant has successfully demonstrated that this need can be met by combining two immiscible oils: a specific resin and a specific long-wear polymer. The present invention thus allows the demixing of two immiscible oils to form a transparent surface film, thereby enabling instant gloss equal to or greater than that of commercially available lip glosses and improving gloss durability. The present invention also provides particularly pronounced color durability and transfer resistance due to the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the film applied to the lips.

[0005] The compositions of the invention are homogeneous compositions which may be in liquid, semi-solid or solid form, and more particularly lip make-up compositions for one-step application. Summary of the Invention

[0006] One object of the present invention is to propose a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular a one-step makeup composition for the lips, with improved shine and shine persistence.

[0007] To this end, in one aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic composition is proposed comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase and at least the following: a), b), c) and advantageously d): a) Formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl and OR' represents an -OSiMe3 group; - y is in the range 1 to 1000, and - z is in the range of 1 to 1000] Phenyl silicone oil represented by b) C8-C30 fatty alcohols, c) branched dextrin esters, and d) Advantageously, a liposoluble polymer, (i) an acrylate polymer selected from the group formed by silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers containing alkyl chains of at least 10 carbon atoms, and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamides; (ii) a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and an alkene having at least 18 carbon atoms, and (iii) mixtures thereof; A lipophilic polymer selected from the group formed by:

[0008] The compositions of the present invention are homogeneous compositions. By "homogeneous" we mean that the compositions of the present invention have the same characteristics and / or properties in all their parts.

[0009] The compositions of the present invention have a homogeneous or uniform visual appearance, i.e., each of the phases they comprise cannot be distinguished by the naked eye, in particular as opposed to "multi-phase or two-phase" compositions in which the phases are distinguishable by the naked eye or some do not have the same characteristics and / or properties.

[0010] This homogeneous and stable appearance is characteristic of the composition when it is in bulk or unitized packaging, whereas when it is applied to keratinous materials, the presence of immiscible oils in the composition leads to the immiscibility of the oils and the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the makeup film applied to the keratinous materials.

[0011] The homogeneity and stability of the compositions of the invention are generally achieved by the use of a fatty phase texturizing agent, such as a pasty fatty substance, a wax, a polymer or any gelling or thickening agent soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase, or a mixture thereof. In particular, the texturizing agent can be chosen from among waxes, pasty fatty substances or mixtures thereof.

[0012] Depending on the total content of texturizing agents, the compositions of the present invention may have a higher or lower viscosity. The total content of texturizing agents(s) in the compositions of the present invention generally ranges from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. At the lowest values ​​(close to 3%), the compositions of the present invention may be in a fluid form, homogeneous in appearance, and slightly viscous. The compositions of the present invention may also be in a semi-solid, or even solid, form with a higher content of texturizing agents.

[0013] In one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are in semi-solid or solid form at 20° C. and atmospheric pressure.

[0014] "Semi-solid" means a substance that is liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm de Hg), i.e., flows naturally under its own weight or has a viscosity of 30 Nm -1 By "solid" is meant a composition that has a firmness or texture that is not solid because it has a hardness less than 100%.

[0015] "Solid" means a material that has a temperature of 20°C, atmospheric pressure (760 mm de Hg) and a viscosity of 30 Nm -1 More than 40 Nm -1 means a composition having a hardness greater than

[0016] Hardness can be measured at 20°C using the so-called "butter wire cutter" method, in which a stick of product, preferably a cylindrical roll, is cut transversely with a hard metal wire 250 μm in diameter, which moves relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the sample is expressed in g and can be measured using a texture analyzer of the Texturometre TAXT Plus type.

[0017] The semi-solid or solid texture of the composition not only allows for the production of special shapes, such as sticks, but also further improves the homogeneity of the composition in bulk or unitized packaging, while allowing for the non-mixing of oils and the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the film applied to the lips.

[0018] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method comprising applying a composition as defined in the present invention to keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips.

[0019] In particular, the composition of the invention is a makeup composition, preferably a makeup composition for the lips.

[0020] Detailed Description of the Invention A first subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase and at least a), b), c) and advantageously d) of the following: a) Formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl and OR' represents an -OSiMe3 group; - y is in the range 1 to 1000, and - z is in the range of 1 to 1000] Phenyl silicone oil represented by b) C8-C30 fatty alcohols, c) branched dextrin esters, and d) Advantageously, a liposoluble polymer, (i) an acrylate polymer selected from the group formed by silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers containing alkyl chains of at least 10 carbon atoms, and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamides; (ii) a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and an alkene having at least 18 carbon atoms, and (iii) mixtures thereof; A lipophilic polymer selected from the group formed by:

[0021] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention also comprise texturizing, gelling and / or structuring agents, in particular pasty fatty substances, waxes or mixtures thereof, making it possible to stabilize and thus bind the system without disturbing the gloss and staying power results.

[0022] Thus, in one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises pasty fatty substances, waxes or mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention, when in bulk or unit package form, is in the form of a homogeneous flowable composition.

[0024] In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a semi-solid composition.

[0025] In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a solid composition.

[0026] Preferably, it is a semi-solid or solid composition, more preferably a solid composition.

[0027] C8-C30 fatty alcohols and branched dextrin esters are selected to deposit color onto keratinous materials. Phenyl silicone oils are immiscible with C8-C30 fatty alcohols and form an ultra-glossy, transparent surface film.

[0028] To improve the comfort during application and to make the comfort last longer, oils and semi-solid fatty substances may be advantageously added. To improve the substantivity and / or to reduce the tackiness that may be felt gradually due to the presence of branched esters and any other long-lasting polymers, powder fillers may be advantageously added. To increase the smoothness during application and improve the sensory performance of the deposited film, additional oils that self-disappear during application and film formation may also be added.

[0029] To improve the long-lasting properties of gloss and color (in other words, non-transferability), it is advantageous to add a polymer.

[0030] The compositions of the invention therefore comprise at least one oil phase.

[0031] "Oily phase" means an oil or mixture of oils.

[0032] By "oil" is meant in the present invention a fatty substance that is not water-soluble and is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0033] In the present invention, the oil phase may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0034] By "silicone oil" according to the invention is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0035] In the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil that contains mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0036] The composition of the invention especially comprises at least one phenylsilicone oil and one hydrocarbon oil.

[0037] Phenyl silicone oil The composition of the present invention comprises at least one phenylsilicone oil. In the present invention, the term "phenylsilicone oil" means an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group.

[0038] The phenylsilicone oils according to the invention are chosen in particular from the group formed by phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane, 2-phenylethyl trimethyl siloxysilicate, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] In one particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a compound of formula (I): [ka]

[0023] In the formula, Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR' is an -OSiMe3 group, y is in the range of 1 to 1000, and z is in the range of 1 to 1000.

[0040] For example, Belsils PDM20, PDM100 and PDM1000 sold by Wacker can be used, in particular trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (MW=9000 g / mol) sold under the trade name BELSIL PDM 1000 by Wacker.

[0041] The non-volatile phenylsilicone oil is contained in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, in particular from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] In one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylsilicone oil of formula (I), preferably the oil with the INCI name: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone.

[0043] The compositions of the present invention also comprise a compound of formula (II): [ka] wherein each R group is independently methyl or phenyl, and at least three, or even at least four, or even at least five, of the R groups are phenyl.

[0044] In one particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises as the second non-volatile phenylsilicone oil a phenylsilicone oil of formula (III): [ka] This includes compounds of the formula: [wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, also known as trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane].

[0045] The phenylsilicone is manufactured in particular by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane). Reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. In a preferred embodiment, reference PH-1555 HRI (INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane) is used.

[0046] In one particular embodiment, the second phenylsilicone oil, which is different from the first phenylsilicone oil, is contained in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 12% by weight, in particular from 4% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] In one particular embodiment, the first phenylsilicone oil and the second phenylsilicone oil are present in the composition in a weight ratio (% first non-volatile phenylsilicone oil:% second non-volatile phenylsilicone oil) ranging from 2 to 6, in particular from 3 to 5.

[0048] C8-C30 fatty alcohol (immiscible with phenyl silicone oil)

[0049] The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one fatty alcohol, which can be represented by the formula ROH, where R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having at least 8 carbon atoms, more particularly 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0050] In one embodiment, the R group is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 30, especially 10 to 24, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0051] Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used in the present invention include straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic or natural origin. Obviously, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as ether-alcohols or so-called Guerbet alcohols.

[0052] In one particular embodiment, the C8-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from the group formed by lauric alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] Preferably, octyldodecanol is used, and in particular ISOFOL 20 by SASOL can be mentioned.

[0054] In one particular embodiment, the amount of fatty alcohol in the composition of the invention is between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the case of solid formulations.

[0055] In one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one first phenylsilicone oil and at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol as defined above in a weight ratio (R1=% non-volatile phenylsilicone oil:% C8-C30 fatty alcohol) ranging from 8 to 20, in particular from 10 to 18.

[0056] In one particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises the above-mentioned at least one first phenylsilicone oil and second phenylsilicone oil and at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol in a weight ratio (R2=(% first phenylsilicone oil+% second phenylsilicone oil):C8-C30 fatty alcohol) ranging from 2 to 25, in particular from 15 to 20.

[0057] Branched dextrin ester (film-forming agent) The branched dextrin ester of the present invention may contain an esterified chain or multiple esterified chains, either the same or different. For example, it may be dextrin esterified with multiple fatty acids, either the same or different. These dextrin esters can be prepared by conventional esterification methods. For example, the following method can be used: 1) Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted with one or more derivatives of a branched fatty acid, and optionally one or more derivatives of other fatty acids, in a required ratio to obtain the above-mentioned dextrin ester. 2) Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted in the first step with one or more derivatives of branched fatty acids, and then in the second step with one or more derivatives of other fatty acids in the required ratios to obtain the above-mentioned dextrin ester. Typically, a halide or an acid anhydride is used as the fatty acid derivative. More specifically, in one or the other of the above two options, the dextrin is dispersed in a reaction solvent, to which a catalyst is added, if necessary. This mixture is reacted by adding one or more of the above-mentioned derivatives of fatty acids, preferably halides.

[0058] In method 1), these derivatives are mixed and added simultaneously to the reaction mixture, while in method 2), the derivatives are added sequentially. Typical solvents include dimethylformamide, formamide, acetamide, ketones, aromatic compounds such as benzene, toluene, hexane, dioxane, or mixtures thereof. Suitable catalysts are typically selected from tertiary amino compounds such as pyridine and picoline. The reaction temperature is typically selected as a function of the starting derivative(s) of fatty acid(s). It is typically between 0 and 100°C. The dextrin ester is purified by conventional methods.

[0059] In a specific embodiment, the branched dextrin ester has an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150; the fatty acid(s) comprise 50 mol % to 100 mol %, based on the total amount of the fatty acids, of one or more branched saturated fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and 0 mol % to less than 50 mol % of one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched saturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and saturated or unsaturated cyclic fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, based on the total amount of the fatty acids; and the degree of substitution of the dextrin by fatty acids per glucose unit is 0 to 3.0.

[0060] Such dextrin esters are described in particular in European application EP 2537865.

[0061] In a preferred embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is selected from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Preferably, the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate.

[0063] Commercially available compounds include UNIFILMA HVY dextrin isostearate sold by Chiba Flour Milling Co.

[0064] In one embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is contained in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] More particularly, the proportion of the branched dextrin ester is 10% to 20% by weight, and even more particularly 12% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Lipid-soluble polymer (long-lasting polymer)

[0067] The composition of the present invention advantageously comprises (i) an acrylate polymer selected from the group formed by silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers containing alkyl chains of at least 10 carbon atoms, and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamides; (ii) a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and an alkene having at least 18 carbon atoms, and (iii) mixtures thereof; is selected from the group formed by

[0068] The lipophilic polymer may be a polymer intended for long-lasting and / or film formation (a so-called "film-forming" polymer).

[0069] Film-forming polymer refers to the polymer that can form a continuous film on a substrate.Here, the term polymer can refer to homopolymer or copolymer." Copolymer " refers to the polymer that contains at least two different monomers or two different blocks, and belongs to the same chemical series, but can have different structures.Fat-soluble film-forming polymer refers to the film-forming polymer that is solubilized in liquid fatty phase, such as the phenyl silicone oil of the present invention.

[0070] The film-forming polymers can be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0071] The acrylate polymer used in the present invention acts as a long-retention polymer, and the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and an alkene having at least 18 carbon atoms acts as a film-forming polymer.

[0072] acrylate polymer

[0073] The acrylate polymers that can be used in the composition of the invention are advantageously chosen from: silicone acrylate polymers, in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (for example KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyltrimethicone (for example KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (for example KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, in particular acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (for example FA-4003 DM from Dow Corning®), acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in isododecane (for example FA-4004 from Dow Corning®); ID), acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate copolymer, e.g., KP-561P from Shin Etsu); - acrylate polymers containing an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms, in particular C10-C30 acrylate (homo)polymers with the INCI name: PolyC10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, such as those sold under the trade name TEGO SP 13-1 by AIR PRODUCTS; and - copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide, in particular copolymers of acrylates and t-butylacrylamide, such as those sold under the trade name ULTRAHOLD 8 or ULTRAHOLD STRONG (INCI: "Acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer" by BASF). In one particular embodiment, the copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide is pre-dispersed in a non-volatile oil, in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene, to facilitate its incorporation into the oily phase of the composition.

[0074] The acrylate polymer used in the composition of the present invention is contained in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, particularly from 2% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes that can be used in the compositions of the present invention contain alkene chains of at least 18 carbon atoms, particularly C18-C30 alkene chains, such as VP / eicosene copolymers, VP / triacontanyl copolymers.

[0076] Preferably, vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers containing C20-C30 linear alkene chains are used, such as VP / eicosene sold under the trade name ANTARON V 220 F (INCI: eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer) by ASHLAND, or triacontanyl PVP sold under the trade name UNIMER U-6 by INDUCHEM.

[0077] The VP and alkene copolymer used in the composition of the invention is contained in an amount ranging from 8% to 20% by weight, in particular from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one C18-C30 copolymer of the above-mentioned VP and an alkene, in particular the VP / eicosene copolymer sold by Ashland under the trade name ANTARON V 220 F (INCI: Eicosene Vinylpyrrolidone Copolymer).

[0079] In another specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises the acrylate polymer described above and a C18-C30 copolymer of VP and an alkene described above.

[0080] In this particular embodiment, the weight ratio of acrylate polymer to C18-C30 VP / alkene copolymer (R=% acrylate polymer / % C18-C30 VP / alkene copolymer) ranges from 1 to 5, especially from 2 to 4.

[0081] In another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a lipophilic film-forming polymer selected from among copolymers of acrylates and acrylamides and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes having at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably copolymers of acrylates and t-butylacrylamide and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and eicosene, preferably mixtures thereof.

[0082] The total content of lipophilic film-forming polymers in the compositions of the invention may range from 8% to 25% by weight, in particular from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the percentage of lipophilic film-forming polymers being expressed as the weight % of active substance (am) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least the following components: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone Octyldodecanol Dextrin isostearate and VP / eicosene copolymer.

[0084] In one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least the following components: Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane Octyldodecanol Dextrin isostearate Acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer and, advantageously, VP / eicosene copolymers.

[0085] The fatty phase of the composition of the invention is generally textured or structured by means of texturizing agents, in particular waxes, pasty fatty substances, or mixtures thereof.

[0086] Thus, in one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises pasty fatty substances, waxes or mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] wax Thus, in one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention further comprise at least one wax that allows stabilization and thus bonding of the system without disrupting the long-lasting and glossy results.

[0088] In the present invention, wax means a compound that is solid at 25°C, has a reversible change of solid / liquid state, and exhibits a melting point higher than 30°C, preferably higher than 45°C.

[0089] Examples include natural waxes (sunflower seed wax, berry wax) and microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products containing mixtures of polyethylene and alcohols with 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of C8-C32 linear or branched vegetable oils (e.g. hydrogenated jojoba oil), waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with fatty alcohols, candelilla wax, copolymers of maleic anhydride and α-olefins, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis, and lanolin wax.

[0090] In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one candelilla wax.

[0091] The composition of the invention may have a wax content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, for example from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Thus, in one particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising between 3% and 15% by weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Pasty fatty substance In one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise a pasty fatty substance.

[0094] "Pasty fatty compound" or "pasty compound" or "pasty fatty substance" is meant to denote an amorphous fatty compound which, at a temperature of 25°C, has a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0095] The pasty compound is, for example, chosen from the group formed by triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] In particular, the pasty compound is chosen from among the triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic triglycerides.

[0097] The composition of the present invention may have a content of pasty compound ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, for example from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] In one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises additional ingredients selected from among oils, fillers, pasty fatty substances, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Another additional oil The present invention may further comprise other silicone or hydrocarbon oils different from the above oils to impart lightness and long-lasting wear to the film deposited on the skin.

[0100] These oils are naturally self-removing when applied to the lips and form a film. These oils are especially useful in the formulation of 0.5-6 cSt dimethicone, C8-C 16 Branched Alkanes, C9-C 15 Normal alkanes, C8-C 16 It can be selected from branched esters and mixtures thereof.

[0101] In one preferred embodiment, the oil is C8-C 16 It is selected from among branched alkanes, in particular isododecane, or C9-C13 linear alkanes.

[0102] Examples of linear alkanes suitable for the present invention include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ), and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), such as those sold under the trade name CETIOL by BASF, as well as n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) mixtures sold under the trade name VEGELIGHT by GRANT INDUSTRIES.

[0103] In one particular embodiment, these oils may be contained in the composition in a total amount ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] Filler Additionally, the compositions of the present invention may advantageously contain fillers to reduce stickiness that may develop on the lips over time due to the presence of the branched dextrin ester.

[0105] In the sense of the present invention, "fillers" are understood to mean particles of any shape, white or colorless, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic type, insoluble and having a morphology (flaky, spherical or oblong) that are dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0106] The fillers are chosen in particular from silica, micas of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc oxide and titanium oxide; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate; zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide (for example nylon); powders of polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid, powders of silicone or silicone resins; cellulose powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxide; glass beads and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin, whether crosslinked or not, such as corn, wheat or rice starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] As preferred fillers, mention may especially be made of cellulose powder, silicon powder, especially the powder having the INCI name: silicon dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] The filler is contained in an amount ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, in particular from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] The compositions of the invention are in particular makeup compositions comprising at least one colorant.

[0110] coloring agent For purposes of the present invention, colorant means a compound that is capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in an appropriate cosmetic medium.

[0111] The colorants may be selected from colorants which may or may not be water-soluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble colorants, organic or inorganic colorants, materials with optical effects, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] In one particular embodiment, the colorants are chosen in particular from mineral pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0113] By "pigment" is meant white or colored particles of mineral or organic nature insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments, i.e., pigments containing mineral and / or organic materials.

[0114] Among the "mineral pigments," examples include optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase); black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide, and iron blue.

[0115] Examples of compositions for lips include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0116] Among the "organic pigments" there may be mentioned, for example, the pigments D&C red no 19; D&C red no 9; D&C Red no 22; D&C Red no 21; D&C Red no 28; D&C Yellow no 6; D&C orange no 4; D&C orange no 5; D&C Red no 27; D&C red no 13; D&C Red no 7; D&C Red no 6; D&C Yellow no 5; D&C Red no 36; D&C Red no 33; D&C orange no 10; D&C yellow no 6; D&C Red no 30; D&C red no 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal-based carmine lakes.

[0117] In particular, the colorant(s) are contained in the composition in an amount ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Galenic form In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are anhydrous compositions.

[0119] "Anhydrous" particularly means that water is preferably not added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition of the present invention contains less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 2% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and is therefore completely free of water.

[0120] In one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a semi-solid composition as defined above.

[0121] In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a solid composition.

[0122] The compositions according to the invention are makeup and / or care compositions for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin and / or lips, preferably for the lips.

[0123] Skin make-up compositions include in particular solid foundations, eye shadows, blushes, eyeliners, eye pencils or cake mascaras.

[0124] Make-up compositions for the lips include in particular lipsticks, lip contour pencils or lip balms.

[0125] In one particularly preferred embodiment, it is a solid makeup composition for the lips, in particular a lipstick.

[0126] Makeup method The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips.

[0127] The composition to be applied to the lips is preferably a makeup composition for the individual's lips, in particular a lipstick.

[0128] The method of the present invention is a makeup method, particularly for lips, that aims to deposit a glossy film on the lips that has long-lasting shine and color.

[0129] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples, in which percentages are given as % by weight based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified. [Example]

[0130] Example 1: Selection of Oils to be Mixed with Phenylsilicone Oil 1.1 Behavior of binary mixtures Applicant evaluated the ability of a phenyl silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) to mix or not mix with various compounds and hydrocarbon or silicone oils.

[0131] In binary mixtures of immiscible oils, a separation effect into several layers (also called "immiscibility") can be observed. For this purpose, a mixture of two compounds or oils (BELSIL PDM1000 + Oil X) was heated to 80°C for 15 minutes under stirring. The mixture was packaged in a transparent glass bottle. The mixture was observed at time TO and then after a resting period of 24 hours.

[0132] The results are shown in Table 1 below: [Table 1]

[0133] In test 1.2, only the oils that showed a non-mixing effect (separation) with phenyl silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) were kept and the "gloss" effect was evaluated, followed by the "non-transfer" of color.

[0134] 1.2 Evaluating the effects of non-mixing and non-transfer Selected oils were used to prepare colored test formulations containing phenylsilicone oils and also pigments.

[0135] The formulation had the following composition (wt%): [Table 2]

[0136] The above test formulations were packaged in bottles. Regarding the immiscibility of the oils, the test formulations showed phase separation on standing and therefore had to be shaken before applying to the lips.

[0137] The behavior of the test formulations when applied to the lips was evaluated in vivo by an expert panel: the formation of a clear film on top of the colored film and the ability of this film to prevent color transfer ("non-transfer" effect). [Table 3]

[0138] Evaluation of oil non-mixing effect and non-transfer of film color

[0139] The non-mixing effect was observed on the lips after film application, and non-transfer of color was assessed by applying a substrate (eg, finger or paper handkerchief) to the lips several times at intervals of a few minutes.

[0140] Surprisingly, octyldodecanol, a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, was found to be the only oil tested that did not transfer color (non-transfer effect) and allowed the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the colored film (gloss effect).

[0141] Example 2: Selection of film-forming agents The applicant tested several film formers (resins or polymers) to identify those that could form a homogeneous colored film while maintaining the non-mixing phenomenon associated with the presence of immiscible oils. By "homogeneous film" is meant a film that spreads homogeneously on the lips and gives a smooth finish of homogeneous color without surface or color irregularities.

[0142] 2.1 Ability to form a uniform film Test formulations were also prepared containing the film formers and binary mixtures selected in Example 1 according to Table 4 below. [Table 4]

[0143] The test formulations were applied to the lips. Once applied to the lips, the film uniformity was evaluated (Table 5). [Table 5]

[0144] In test 2.2, a film former was selected that would form a uniform film on the lips.

[0145] 2.2 Assessing unmixed and untransferred effects The expert panel re-evaluated the behavior of pigmented formulations as defined in Table 6 containing the film formers selected in 2.1. [Table 6]

[0146] The above formulation was shaken, if necessary, before application to the lips. The same method as in 1.2 was used to evaluate the behavior of the color formulations with film formers (Table 6). The results of the non-mixing evaluation and the non-color transfer evaluation are shown in Table 7 below. [Table 7]

[0147] This study shows that dextrin isostearate (branched dextrin ester) alone makes it possible to obtain the desired properties of gloss, non-transfer of color, and homogeneity of the makeup film.

[0148] Example 3: Selection of long-retention polymers Following Examples 1 and 2 above, it was desired to improve the long-term retention of the colored films obtained using the compositions of the present invention while maintaining the gloss effect associated with the non-mixing phenomenon identified above. Compositions were prepared according to Table 8 containing both the film formers and oils selected in the examples above. [Table 8]

[0149] The pigment was milled in the presence of octyldodecanol. The pigment phase was heated to 95°C.

[0150] Separately, dextrin isostearate was dispersed in octyldodecanol in a Raynery mixer at 95° C. After homogenization, phenyl silicone oil was added.

[0151] The two previously prepared phases were mixed and homogenized under heat.

[0152] Long-lasting polymer X was added to the composition obtained in the previous step.

[0153] The composition was poured into suitable packaging and allowed to cool.

[0154] The various seed compositions prepared were characterized according to the following protocol:

[0155] The product was applied to the lips with an applicator if the product was a semi-paste, or directly with a stick if the product was a solid.

[0156] a-Evaluation at T0 After applying a film of the composition to the lips, the subject waited 5 minutes and then lightly placed a finger on the lips to assess the adhesion of the film and to confirm the non-transfer of the colored film. A photograph of the made-up lips was taken and a visual evaluation of the gloss was performed at time T0. b-Evaluation at T12h Adhesion was assessed by lightly placing a finger on the lips, and non-transfer of the colored film was confirmed at T2h.

[0157] Photographs of the made-up lips were taken and the gloss was assessed and compared with the gloss observed at T0.

[0158] The results are shown in Table 9 below. [Table 9]

[0159] It was determined that the long-retention polymers tested did not all behave the same when associated in the compositions of the present invention.

[0160] A certain number of them do not achieve the effect of the present invention, that is, the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the applied film that imparts gloss and no transfer.

[0161] Performance was assessed by a panel of experts in terms of adhesion, gloss and long-lasting hold.

[0162] For optimum performance in the compositions of the present invention, it is preferred to use eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and / or acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymers.

[0163] Example 4: Composition of the Invention The following compositions are exemplified with long-hold polymers, however, it is possible to prepare compositions without long-hold polymers (oils, resins, waxes, qs) and still obtain acceptable gloss and non-transfer performance. The use of a long-lasting polymer further improves the substantivity of the composition.

[0164] The following compositions containing long-lasting polymers were prepared according to the following operating mode:

[0165] To a portion of the octyldodecanol, a resin (branched dextrin ester) and a long-retention polymer (acrylate / butylacrylamide copolymer) are added under stirring at 95°C.

[0166] After homogenization, the second long-lasting polymer (VP / Eicosene copolymer) is added and left under stirring for 30 minutes.

[0167] The wax is then added and stirring is continued for 20 minutes.

[0168] The pigment is ground in the remaining octyldodecanol.

[0169] Add this pigment phase to the remaining formulation and homogenize.

[0170] Phenyl silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) is added to the formulation under heating and stirring for at least 20-30 minutes.

[0171] Subsequently, the oil and semi-solid fatty substances are added and stirring is continued for 15 minutes.

[0172] After adding the powder filler, continue stirring for 20 to 30 minutes.

[0173] Finally, isododecane is added and left to homogenize for more than 2 minutes.

[0174] The composition is packaged in a suitable pack.

[0175] 4-1 Semi-paste composition for lips [Table 10]

[0176] The composition was prepared according to the above operating mode and packed in a glass tube-type gloss pack, the visual appearance of which was homogeneous.

[0177] Once applied to the lips, the composition leaves behind a glossy film that has improved hold and remains comfortable all day.

[0178] 4-2 Solid compositions for lips (anhydrous sticks) [Table 11]

[0179] The composition was prepared according to the above operating mode and packaged in a stick-type lipstick pack. The visual appearance of the stick was homogeneous.

[0180] Similar to composition 4.1, the composition leaves a glossy film on the lips, the long-wear properties of which are improved to last all day while remaining comfortable.

[0181] 4-3 Solid compositions for lips (anhydrous sticks) [Table 12]

[0182] A composition without long-wear polymer was prepared according to the operating mode described above and packaged in a stick-type lipstick pack. The visual appearance of the solid composition was homogeneous.

[0183] The composition leaves a glossy film on the lips, and the compounds in Phases A, D1 and D2 improve the glossiness of the film, making it comfortable and lasting all day.

[0184] 4-4 Solid compositions for lips (anhydrous sticks) [Table 13]

[0185] The composition leaves a glossy film on the lips that is comfortable and has good staying power. Furthermore, the present invention includes the following aspects. [Aspect 1] A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase and at least the following: a), b), c), and advantageously d): a) Formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl and OR' represents an -OSiMe3 group; - y is in the range of 1 to 1000, and - z is in the range of 1 to 1000] Phenyl silicone oil represented by b) C8-C30 fatty alcohols, c) branched dextrin esters, and d) Advantageously, a liposoluble polymer, (i) an acrylate polymer selected from the group formed by silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers containing alkyl chains of at least 10 carbon atoms, and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamides; (ii) a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and an alkene having at least 18 carbon atoms, and (iii) mixtures thereof; A lipophilic polymer selected from the group formed by: [Aspect 2] 2. The cosmetic composition according to aspect 1, characterized in that it comprises pasty fatty substances, waxes or mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Aspect 3] 3. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding aspects, characterized in that it is a semi-solid or solid composition, preferably a solid composition. [Aspect 4] 4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of aspects 1 to 3, characterized in that the liposoluble polymer is selected from among copolymers of acrylates and acrylamides, preferably copolymers of acrylates and t-butylacrylamide, and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes having at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene copolymers. [Aspect 5] 5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of aspects 1 to 4, wherein the cosmetic composition is an anhydrous composition. [Aspect 6] A cosmetic composition according to any one of Aspects 1 to 5, wherein the branched dextrin ester is selected from the group consisting of dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate. [Aspect 7] 7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding aspects, wherein the C8-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from the group formed by lauric alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol. [Aspect 8] At least the following compounds: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone Octyldodecanol Dextrin isostearate and VP / eicosene copolymer, 8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of aspects 1 to 7, comprising: [Aspect 9] 9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding aspects, characterized in that it further comprises additional ingredients selected from among additional oils, fillers, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, colorants, and mixtures thereof. [Aspect 10] 10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of aspects 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips, in particular for the lips, in particular a lip paint, gloss, lipstick, preferably a lipstick. [Aspect 11] A cosmetic method comprising applying a composition according to any one of aspects 1 to 10 to keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips.

Claims

1. In a physiologically acceptable medium, an oil phase and at least the following: a), b), c), and d): a) Formula (I): 【Chemical 1】 [In the formula, Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl and OR' represents an -OSiMe3 group; - y is in the range of 1 to 1000, and - z is in the range of 1 to 1000. Phenyl silicone oil represented by b) C8-C30 fatty alcohols, c) branched dextrin esters, and d) a lipophilic polymer, (i) an acrylate polymer selected from the group formed by silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers containing alkyl chains of at least 10 carbon atoms, and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamides; (ii) a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and an alkene having at least 18 carbon atoms, and (iii) mixtures thereof; a lipophilic polymer selected from the group formed by A cosmetic composition comprising: A cosmetic composition characterized in that the composition is a semi-solid or solid composition and comprises a pasty fatty substance, a wax or a mixture thereof.

2. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises pasty fatty substances, waxes or mixtures thereof in a total amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is a solid composition.

4. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the liposoluble polymer is chosen from among copolymers of acrylates and t-butylacrylamide, and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes having at least 20 carbon atoms.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is an anhydrous composition.

6. 6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the branched dextrin ester is selected from the group consisting of dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, and mixtures thereof.

7. 7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the C8-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from the group formed by lauric alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

8. At least the following compounds: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone Octyldodecanol Dextrin isostearate and VP / eicosene copolymer, The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises:

9. 9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises additional ingredients chosen from additional oils, fillers, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips.

11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it is a lip paint, gloss or lipstick.

12. A cosmetic method comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 to keratinous materials.

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