Lace fabric and its manufacturing method
By using a heat-fusible core yarn bonded with a covering yarn in a specific entangled structure, the lace fabric ensures pattern yarns remain fixed, addressing the issue of slipping and maintaining appearance and texture.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2025014572
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-01-31
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-21
- Estimated Expiration
- 2045-01-31
AI Technical Summary
Existing lace fabrics face issues with pattern yarns moving or slipping out of the cut edges, especially when stretched, due to insufficient adhesion to the ground knitting yarn, affecting the pattern's appearance.
The lace fabric is composed of a core yarn and a covering yarn, where the core yarn is heat-fusible and the covering yarn extends in the same direction as the core yarn, entangled at intervals, with the core yarns of the ground knitting and pattern yarns bonded together through heat treatment, and the pattern yarn inserted across multiple wales.
The pattern yarns are less likely to move or slip out from the cut edge, maintaining the pattern's integrity and appearance, even with repeated stretching, and the fabric retains a soft texture.
Smart Images

Figure 0007756976000001_ABST
Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to lace fabric and a method for producing the same. [Background technology]
[0002] In order to prevent fraying from the cut edges when the lace fabric is cut, a low-melting, heat-fusible yarn is used as the core yarn for the ground knitting yarn that forms the ground knitting structure of the lace fabric. Blended yarn It is known that lace fabric is heat treated after knitting, and the heat treatment Blended yarn The core thread melts and bonds to the other threads, making it less likely to fray.
[0003] In addition, Patent Document 1 states that Blended yarn It is described that the jacquard yarn is used as a ground knitting yarn to form the ground knit structure, as well as a jacquard yarn to be inserted into the ground knit structure (Patent Document 1 describes the jacquard yarn as an inserting yarn 30).
[0004] The jacquard yarn is a yarn fed from a jacquard reed of a warp knitting machine, and as shown in Figure 1 of Patent Document 1 and paragraph 0022 of Patent Document 2, for example, in one course it is inserted into only one wale, in another course it is inserted over two wales, and in yet another course it is inserted over three wales. Generally, the jacquard yarn is not inserted over four wales or more.
[0005] Pattern yarns, known as yarns used in lace fabrics, are yarns fed from the pattern reed of a warp knitting machine, and are often inserted across four or more wales in at least a portion of the lace fabric, as shown in, for example, Figures 3 and 5 of Patent Document 2. In order to make the pattern of the lace fabric stand out, pattern yarns are generally thicker than the ground knitting yarns and jacquard yarns. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0006] [Patent Document 1] Patent No. 7335030 [Patent Document 2] Patent No. 4457141 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0007] In the lace fabric containing the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn, Blended yarn However, simply using this method does not allow the pattern yarn to adhere sufficiently to the ground knitting yarn, and when the lace fabric stretches, the pattern yarn may move from its normal position, making the pattern look bad, or the pattern yarn may come loose from the ground knitting structure at the cut edge of the lace fabric.
[0008] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a lace fabric in which pattern threads are less likely to move or slip out of the cut edge, and a method for manufacturing the same. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] The present invention includes the embodiments shown below.
[0010] [1] In a lace fabric comprising a ground knitting yarn forming a wale in which stitches are connected in the warp direction and a pattern yarn having a course swung in the weft direction so as to span a plurality of the wales, the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn are composed of a core yarn and a covering yarn around the core yarn. Air interlacing the core yarn of at least one of the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn is a heat-fusible yarn; In the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn, the covering yarn extends in the same direction as the extension direction of the core yarn, and is entangled with the core yarn at a plurality of intertwining portions that exist at intervals in the extension direction of the core yarn, and a portion of the core yarn is exposed between the covering yarns in the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn, The core yarn of the ground knitting yarn and the core yarn of the pattern yarn are bonded together In at least some of the courses, the pattern yarn is inserted across 4 or more wales per course, and a jacquard yarn is inserted across 1 to 3 wales, and the total fineness of the pattern yarn is greater than the total fineness of the ground knitting yarn, and in the pattern yarn, the fineness of the core yarn is 18 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less, and the total fineness of the covering yarn is 78 dtex or more and 600 dtex or less. Lace fabric.
[0011] [2] When the finishing pressure is X and the elongation is E,
[0012]
number
[0013] [3] [1] or [2], wherein the total fineness of the pattern yarn is greater than the total fineness of the jacquard yarn. Lace ground as described.
[0016] [ 4 ] A printed pattern is formed on the surface of the lace ground on the patterned yarn by ink, [1] to [ 3 ] Lace fabric described in any of the following.
[0017] [ 5 In a method for manufacturing lace fabric, a wale having a series of stitches in the warp direction is knitted using a ground knitting yarn fed from a ground reed, and a pattern yarn fed from a pattern reed is swung in the weft direction to knit a design across a plurality of wales, the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn comprising a core yarn and a covering yarn which is disposed around the core yarn and has a higher melting point than the core yarn. Air interlacing Using thread, The covering yarn is extended in the same direction as the extension direction of the core yarn, and is entangled with the core yarn at a plurality of intertwining portions that are spaced apart in the extension direction of the core yarn, and a portion of the core yarn is exposed between the covering yarns. By performing a heat treatment after the knitting, the core yarn of at least one of the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn is melted, and the core yarn of the ground knitting yarn and the core yarn of the pattern yarn are bonded together. In at least some of the courses, the pattern yarn is inserted across 4 or more wales per course, and jacquard yarn is inserted across 1 to 3 wales, and the pattern yarn has a total fineness greater than that of the ground knitting yarn, the core yarn has a fineness of 18 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less, and the covering yarn has a total fineness of 78 dtex or more and 600 dtex or less. How lace is made. [Effects of the Invention]
[0018] In the lace fabric of the embodiment, the pattern threads are less likely to move or slip out from the cut edge. Furthermore, according to the manufacturing method of the embodiment, it is possible to manufacture lace fabric in which the pattern threads are less likely to move or slip out from the cut edge. [Brief explanation of the drawings]
[0019] [Figure 1] A knitting structure diagram of a lace fabric. A diagram showing the ground knitting yarn, pattern yarn, and elastic insert yarn. [Figure 2] 1 is a knitting structure diagram of a lace fabric, showing the ground knitting yarn, the jacquard yarn, and the elastic insert yarn. [Figure 3] FIG. 1 shows air-entangled yarn in a relaxed state. [Figure 4] FIG. 1 is a diagram showing air-entangled yarn in a stretched state. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0020] 1. Composition of the lace The lace fabric of this embodiment is a lace fabric knitted by a warp knitting machine. The lace fabric of this embodiment is formed by a ground knitting yarn 10, which is a stitch-forming yarn that forms stitches, and a pattern yarn 11, a jacquard yarn 12, and an elastic insert yarn 13, each of which is knitted into the ground knit structure. Figures 1 and 2 show these yarns in the lace fabric. For ease of viewing, only the ground knitting yarn 10, the pattern yarn 11, and the elastic insert yarn 13 are shown in Figure 1, and only the ground knitting yarn 10, the jacquard yarn 12, and the elastic insert yarn 13 are shown in Figure 2.
[0021] The ground knitting yarn 10 forms a ground knit structure. In this embodiment, the ground knit structure is a chain knit structure. In Figs. 1 and 2, one ground knitting yarn 10 forms stitches only in the same wale to form a chain knit structure. However, the ground knitting yarn 10 may move to an adjacent wale as appropriate. In other words, one ground knitting yarn 10 may form stitches over several courses in the same wale, then move to an adjacent wale and again form stitches over several courses in that wale, repeating this process to form a chain knit structure.
[0022] As shown in Figure 1, the pattern thread 11 has a course in which it is inserted across multiple wales (five courses in the case of Figure 1). The pattern thread 11 is inserted across four or more wales in at least some of the courses. The pattern thread 11 may also be inserted across five or more wales in at least some of the courses. The pattern thread 11 may also be inserted across two or three wales in some of the courses, or may be inserted across only one wale in some of the courses. The number of wales into which the pattern thread 11 is inserted (the width of the pattern thread 11 in the weft direction) may differ for each wale.
[0023] The pattern yarn 11 is inserted into the wales that form the pattern. In Fig. 1, only one pattern yarn 11 is shown to make it easier to see the knitting structure, but in an actual lace fabric, the pattern yarn 11 is inserted into multiple wales.
[0024] As shown in Figure 2, the jacquard yarn 12 has a course in which it is inserted in only one wale, a course in which it is inserted across two wales, and a course in which it is inserted across three wales. When the basic weave of the jacquard yarn 12 is a typical weave in which it is inserted across two wales, the jacquard yarn 12 is inserted across one or three wales by being displaced from the position of the basic weave, but it is never inserted across four or more wales. In Figure 2, only one jacquard yarn 12 is drawn to make the knitting structure easier to see, but in an actual lace fabric, the jacquard yarn 12 is inserted in all wales.
[0025] The elastic insert yarns 13 are inserted into all wales of the chain stitch structure, thereby giving the entire lace fabric elasticity in the wale direction (i.e., warp direction, knitting direction, up and down direction in Figures 1 and 2). Each elastic insert yarn 13 is inserted into one wale.
[0026] In a course in which at least one of the pattern yarn 11 and the jacquard yarn 12 is inserted across multiple wales, adjacent wales are connected to each other. In a course in which these yarns are inserted across a large number of wales, for example, three or more wales, the yarn density increases and thick portions are formed.
[0027] In addition, in courses where there is no thread inserted across two or more wales, adjacent wales are not connected to each other. The parts where adjacent wales are not connected to each other form through holes that penetrate the lace fabric in the thickness direction.
[0028] The pattern is formed on the lace fabric by the arrangement of the holes and the density of the threads in different places. Various patterns are formed on the lace fabric by the shape, size and arrangement of the holes and thick parts. In other words, various patterns are formed on the lace fabric by the method of inserting the pattern thread 11 and the jacquard thread 12. Therefore, the method of inserting the pattern thread 11 and the jacquard thread 12 is not limited to that shown in Figures 1 and 2.
[0029] Note that each yarn is depicted schematically in Figures 1 and 2. In an actual lace fabric, tension is applied to each yarn, so the stitches of the ground knitting yarn 10 are smaller than those shown in Figures 1 and 2, and the yarns are denser at stitch positions and come into contact with each other.
[0030] In such lace fabric, the ground knitting yarns 10 are bonded to each other at least in part of the contact area between the same ground knitting yarns 10. Furthermore, the ground knitting yarns 10 and the pattern yarns 11 are bonded to each other at least in part of the contact area between the ground knitting yarns 10 and the pattern yarns 11. Furthermore, the ground knitting yarns 10 and the pattern yarns 11 are bonded to the jacquard yarns 12 at least in part of the contact area with the jacquard yarns 12, and are bonded to the elastic insert yarns 13 at least in part of the contact area with the elastic insert yarns 13.
[0031] Furthermore, the lace fabric of this embodiment has a coarser stitch count than conventional lace fabrics. Specifically, the estimated on-machine density is 8 courses / cm to 26 courses / cm, and preferably 8 courses / cm to 16 courses / cm. The on-machine density is a value measured during production on a warp knitting machine, but can be estimated from the finishing density and elongation of the completed lace fabric after heat treatment, etc. Specifically, the on-machine density Y can be estimated by calculation using the following formula:
[0032]
number
[0033] Here, X is the finish pick-up, and E is the elongation measured in accordance with the elongation rate A method (constant speed elongation method) of JIS L-1096. Finish pick-up refers to the density of stitches in the wale direction of the lace fabric after knitting and heat treatment are complete. One stitch constitutes one course. For example, if the finished lace fabric has a finish pick-up of 30 courses / cm and an elongation of 100% (i.e., stretched to twice its original length), the on-machine pick-up is estimated to be 15 courses / cm. The on-machine pick-up Y estimated by this formula is referred to as the estimated on-machine pick-up. The finish pick-up of the lace fabric in this embodiment is, for example, between 25 courses / cm and 35 courses / cm.
[0034] In the lace fabric of this embodiment, the runner length of the ground knitting yarn 10 is 110 cm or more and 150 cm or less. Here, the runner length refers to the length of the yarn used to knit one rack (480 courses) of lace fabric.
[0035] 2. Yarn composition In the lace fabric of this embodiment, the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 are Air interlaced yarn As shown in Figs. 3 and 4, the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 are used. Air interlaced yarn is formed from one core yarn 20 and one or more (multiple in the figure) covering yarns 21 arranged around the core yarn 20. For convenience, in Figures 3 and 4, the core yarn 20 is depicted as a thick hatched yarn, and the covering yarn 21 is depicted as a single line.
[0036] The core yarn 20 is an elastic yarn, specifically a polyurethane yarn. Air interlaced yarn The fabric becomes stretchy, and the lace fabric becomes stretchy.
[0037] The covering yarn 21 extends in the same direction as the core yarn 20 in a broad view. Air interlaced yarn When is in a relaxed state (i.e. Air interlaced yarn When no tension is applied to stretch the covering yarn 21, the covering yarn 21 is greatly undulating as shown in FIG. Air interlaced yarnWhen is in the elongated state (i.e. Air interlaced yarn When the covering yarn 21 is in a relaxed state (when tension is acting to stretch the covering yarn 21), the covering yarn 21 is less wavy than when it is in a relaxed state, as shown in FIG.
[0038] Here, the extension direction of the core yarn 20 refers to the extension direction when the core yarn 20 is extended in a straight line, but when the core yarn 20 is curved, it refers to the direction along the curve.
[0039] 3 and 4, the cover yarn 21 is entangled with the core yarn 20 at a plurality of entangled portions 22 that exist at intervals in the extension direction of the core yarn 20. By entangling the cover yarn 21 with the core yarn 20 in this way, the cover yarn 21 and the core yarn 20 are integrated into one piece. Air interlaced yarn In the entangled portion 22, for example, the covering yarn 21 is entangled around the core yarn 20 by about half a turn to one turn, or the covering yarns 21 are entangled with each other.
[0040] The portions between the intertwined portions 22 are non-intertwined portions where the covering yarn 21 is not entangled with the core yarn 20. In such non-intertwined portions, even in a relaxed state, a part of the core yarn 20 is exposed between the covering yarns 21. Air interlaced yarn In the stretched state, the exposed area of the core yarn 20 becomes even larger. In the unentangled portion, the covering yarn 21 extends in the same direction as the extension direction of the core yarn 20.
[0041] As described above, the entangled portions 22 are present in places at intervals of a certain degree in the extension direction of the core yarn 20. The interval L between the entangled portions 22 is Air interlaced yarn is in a relaxed state (however, Air interlaced yarn When the core yarn 20 is pulled to be straight within a range where the length of the core yarn 20 is not stretched, the length is, for example, 1.5 mm or more and 3.0 mm or less. Air interlaced yarn Tension acts on Air interlaced yarn is stretched, and the interval L of the entangled parts 22 at this time is, for example, 2.0 mm or more and 5.0 mm or less.
[0042] 3 and 4, the entangled portions 22 have a certain length in the extension direction of the core yarn 20. Therefore, strictly speaking, the spacing L of the entangled portions 22 is the spacing between the center positions of the entangled portions 22 in the longitudinal direction.
[0043] 3 and 4 show the case where the entangled portions 22 are shorter than the unentangled portions, but there may also be cases where the entangled portions 22 are longer than the unentangled portions.
[0045] The core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 is a heat-fusible polyurethane yarn. When a sample is cut from a lace fabric or when the core yarn 20 is removed by unraveling the lace fabric, the core yarn 20 can be determined to be a heat-fusible polyurethane yarn by its stretchability and the presence of traces of heat fusion at the contact points with other yarns. Traces of heat fusion include, for example, surface deformation, adhesion to other yarns, and integration with other yarns. Heat-fusible polyurethane yarn melts at the heat treatment temperature of the lace fabric, and can also be referred to as a low-melting-point polyurethane yarn. In this embodiment, the melting point of the heat-fusible polyurethane yarn (low-melting-point polyurethane yarn) is 135°C or higher and 165°C or lower.
[0046] each Air interlaced yarn In the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11, the fineness (thickness) of the core yarn 20 is preferably 18 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less, and more preferably 18 dtex or more and 22 dtex or less.
[0047] Furthermore, it is preferable that the covering yarn 21 is a yarn that is difficult to thermally fuse with the core yarn 20. The type of covering yarn 21 is not limited, but is, for example, an inelastic yarn, and more specifically, a nylon yarn or a polyester yarn. The covering yarn 21 has a higher melting point than the core yarn 20. When the covering yarn 21 is a nylon yarn, its melting point is, for example, 210°C or higher and 220°C or lower. When the covering yarn 21 is a polyester yarn, its melting point is, for example, 250°C or higher and 260°C or lower.
[0048] The number of covering yarns 21 in one pattern yarn 11 may be one, but preferably multiple. In the pattern yarn 11, the total fineness of the covering yarns 21 used for one core yarn 20 is preferably 78 dtex or more. In other words, when one covering yarn 21 is used for one pattern yarn 11, the fineness of that single covering yarn 21 is preferably 78 dtex or more, and when multiple covering yarns 21 are used for one pattern yarn 11, the total fineness of all those covering yarns 21 is preferably 78 dtex or more.
[0049] In addition, in the pattern yarn 11, the total fineness of the covering yarns 21 used for one core yarn 20 is more preferably 155 dtex or more. In addition, in the pattern yarn 11, the total fineness of the covering yarns 21 used for one core yarn 20 is preferably 600 dtex or less, and more preferably 500 dtex or less.
[0050] The number of covering yarns 21 in one ground knitting yarn 10 may be one or more. Furthermore, in the ground knitting yarn 10, the total fineness of the covering yarns 21 used for one core yarn 20 is smaller than the total fineness of the covering yarns 21 used in the pattern yarn 11, and is, for example, 33 dtex or more and 55 dtex or less. Furthermore, the total fineness of the ground knitting yarn 10 (i.e., the total fineness of one core yarn 20 and all the covering yarns 21 around it) is smaller than the total fineness of the pattern yarn 11.
[0051] The type of jacquard yarn 12 is not limited, but for example, it may be made of a core yarn 20 and a covering yarn 21, similar to the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11. Air interlaced yarn The jacquard yarn 12 is a non-elastic yarn such as nylon yarn (fineness is, for example, 33 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less) and is a non-covering yarn. Regardless of the type of jacquard yarn 12, the total fineness of the jacquard yarn 12 is smaller than the total fineness of the pattern yarn 11. Air interlaced yarn In this case, the structure may be one in which one polyurethane yarn as the core yarn 20 is covered by one nylon yarn (fineness: for example, 33 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less) as the covering yarn 21. Air interlaced yarnIn this case, the jacquard yarn 12 may be the same as the ground knitting yarn 10 (that is, the same in all respects such as fineness and material).
[0052] The elastic insert yarn 13 is an uncovered polyurethane elastic yarn having a higher melting point than the core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the core yarn 20 of the pattern yarn 11. The melting point of the elastic insert yarn 13 is, for example, 200°C or higher and 230°C or lower. The fineness of the elastic insert yarn 13 is, for example, 44 dtex or higher and 470 dtex or lower.
[0053] 3. Lace manufacturing method When manufacturing lace, the thread that will be used to make the lace is first prepared. Air interlaced yarn A fluid entanglement method is employed as a manufacturing method for the above-mentioned fabric. In the fluid entanglement method, the core yarn 20 and the covering yarn 21 are entangled by the action of a fluid. Known representative examples of the fluid entanglement method include the interlace method and the taslan method.
[0054] In the interlace method, a core yarn 20 and a covering yarn 21 are fed into a known interlace nozzle, and air is fed into the interlace nozzle from a direction perpendicular to the direction of travel of these yarns, thereby entangling the core yarn 20 and the covering yarn 21. In the Taslan method, a core yarn 20 and a covering yarn 21 are fed into a known Taslan nozzle, and air is fed into the Taslan nozzle from approximately the same direction as the direction of travel of these yarns, thereby entangling the core yarn 20 and the covering yarn 21. In either method, Air interlaced yarn The core yarn 20 and the covering yarn 21 are entangled without being twisted.
[0055] The ground knitting yarn 10 and pattern yarn 11 thus produced are used, along with the jacquard yarn 12 and elastic insert yarn 13, to knit a warp knitted fabric that will serve as the basis for the lace fabric of this embodiment. A known warp knitting machine such as a Russell machine is used to knit the warp knitted fabric. The warp knitting machine is equipped with a plurality of ground reeds, pattern reeds, and jacquard reeds. The ground knitting yarn 10 and elastic insert yarn 13 are fed from the ground reed, the pattern yarn 11 is fed from the pattern reed, and the jacquard yarn 12 is fed from the jacquard reed.
[0056] During knitting, the on-machine pitch is 8 to 26 courses / cm, preferably 8 to 16 courses / cm. The on-machine pitch is the density of stitches in the wale direction of the warp knitted fabric immediately after knitting. In detail, the on-machine pitch is the pitch value between the knitting position where knitting is performed with the knitting needles and the take-up roller (which is located downstream of the knitting position in the flow of the warp knitted fabric and is the first roller through which the warp knitted fabric passes immediately after knitting with the knitting needles). One stitch constitutes one course. The on-machine pitch can be controlled by adjusting the rotation amount of the take-up roller. Here, the rotation amount refers to the amount of rotation the warp knitting machine makes while knitting one course. The smaller the rotation amount of the take-up roller, the greater the on-machine pitch. During knitting, tension in the pulling direction is applied to the warp knitted fabric.
[0057] The warp knitted fabric that has passed through the winding roller is wound onto a fabric winding shaft that is located further downstream in the flow of the warp knitted fabric. At the timing when the warp knitted fabric is wound onto the fabric winding shaft, the stitch density in the wale direction is greater than the on-machine stitch density described above.
[0058] The knitted warp knitted fabric is subjected to a heat treatment. The heat treatment may involve presetting and final setting, or only final setting. In either case, the heat treatment is performed at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the heat-fusible polyurethane yarn and lower than the melting points of the other yarns (this temperature is referred to as the "temperature for heat fusion").
[0059] When presetting and final setting are performed as the heat treatment, the presetting temperature is the temperature for heat fusion described above. As described above, when the melting point of the heat-fusible polyurethane yarn is 135°C or higher and 165°C or lower, the melting point of the covering yarn 21 is 210°C or higher, and the melting point of the elastic insert yarn 13 is 200°C or higher and 230°C or lower, the presetting temperature is, for example, 185°C or higher and 195°C or lower. In this case, the final setting temperature is lower than the presetting temperature. When the presetting temperature is 185°C or higher and 195°C or lower, the final setting temperature is, for example, 170°C or higher and 180°C or lower.
[0060] When only the final set is performed as the heat treatment, the final set temperature is the temperature for heat fusion described above. As described above, when the melting point of the heat fusion polyurethane yarn is 135°C or higher and 165°C or lower, the melting point of the covering yarn 21 is 210°C or higher, and the melting point of the elastic insert yarn 13 is 200°C or higher and 230°C or lower, the final set temperature is, for example, 180°C or higher and 190°C or lower.
[0061] The heat treatment at a temperature suitable for heat fusion is preferably not a heat treatment that completely melts the core yarn 20 made of heat-fusible polyurethane yarn, but a heat treatment that melts and fuses the surface of the core yarn 20 while retaining its shape as a thread.
[0062] During the heat setting, tension is applied to the warp knitted fabric. The tension causes the warp knitted fabric to be elongated, and the ground knitting yarn 10 that constitutes the warp knitted fabric is also elongated. Therefore, the core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 during the heat setting is more exposed than when in a relaxed state.
[0063] By such heat treatment at a temperature suitable for heat fusion, the heat-fusible polyurethane yarns that are the core yarns 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 melt, and the portions of the heat-fusible polyurethane yarns that are exposed between the cover yarns 21 are heat-fused to the surrounding yarns. As a result, the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 are bonded to each other at least in part of the contact area between the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11. Furthermore, the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 are each bonded to the jacquard yarn 12 at least in part of the contact area with the jacquard yarn 12, and are each bonded to the elastic insert yarn 13 at least in part of the contact area with the elastic insert yarn 13.
[0064] The pattern yarn 11 is bonded to the ground knitting yarn 10 and fixed to the ground knit structure, thereby fixing the pattern of the warp knitted fabric.
[0065] Furthermore, if the core yarn 20 of the jacquard yarn 12 is a heat-fusible polyurethane yarn, the heat-fusible polyurethane yarn also melts, and the part of the heat-fusible polyurethane yarn that is exposed between the covering yarns 21 is heat-fused to the surrounding yarns.
[0066] The finishing needle count of the warp knitted fabric after heat treatment is larger than the needle count on the machine. In other words, the warp knitted fabric after heat treatment is shrunk more than the warp knitted fabric immediately after knitting. This is because the yarns that make up the warp knitted fabric have elasticity and because the warp knitted fabric is pulled during knitting.
[0067] The knitted warp knitted fabric is then colored by printing or dyeing.
[0068] Printing is the application of ink to the surface of the warp knitted fabric using a printer such as an inkjet printer. By printing, a printed pattern consisting of multiple colors is formed on the surface of the warp knitted fabric. The printed pattern is formed on various yarns that make up the warp knitted fabric, such as the ground yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11. Printing is performed after the final set. Therefore, the warp knitted fabric is colored after the constituent yarns have been bonded together.
[0069] When presetting and final setting are performed as heat treatments, dyeing is performed after presetting and before final setting. Therefore, in this case, the warp knitted fabric is dyed after the constituent yarns are bonded together. On the other hand, when only final setting is performed as heat treatment, dyeing is performed before final setting. Therefore, in this case, the warp knitted fabric is dyed and then the yarns are bonded together.
[0070] Finally, the warp knitted fabric is cut to produce the finished lace fabric. Because the heat-fusible polyurethane yarns adhere to each other as described above, the edges of the cut lace fabric are less likely to fray. This eliminates the need to apply a separate piece of fabric to the cut lace fabric. The cut lace fabric is used for garments that require moderate stretch and a comfortable fit, such as the back of shorts.
[0071] 4.Effects The lace fabric of this embodiment is a lace fabric knitted with at least a ground knitting yarn 10 and a pattern yarn 11. The ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 are composed of a core yarn 20, which is a heat-fusible yarn, and a covering yarn 21 around the core yarn 20. Air interlaced yarn The core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the core yarn 20 of the pattern yarn 11 are bonded together. This makes it difficult for the pattern yarn 11 to move in the lace ground, and the pattern yarn 11 is also difficult to slip out from the cut edge of the lace ground. This makes it difficult for the appearance of the pattern and the cut edge to deteriorate.
[0072] Furthermore, the lace fabric of this embodiment has an estimated machine count of 8 courses / cm or more and 26 courses / cm or less. The estimated machine count of 26 courses / cm or less is smaller than the machine count of regular lace fabric, and the stitches are coarse, which makes the lace fabric feel very soft to the touch. However, the estimated machine count of 8 courses / cm or more ensures the thickness of the lace fabric.
[0073] Conventionally, in lace fabrics with such a small on-machine count, the pattern threads tended to move from their regular positions or slip out from the cut edges when the lace fabric stretched, etc. However, in this embodiment, the core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the core yarn 20 of the pattern thread 11 are bonded together, so the pattern thread 11 is less likely to move in the lace fabric, and the pattern thread 11 is less likely to slip out from the cut edges of the lace fabric.
[0074] The ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 are made of a core yarn 20 which is a heat-fusible yarn and a covering yarn 21 which is around the core yarn 20 and has a higher melting point than the core yarn 20. Air interlaced yarn Therefore, by heat treatment at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the core yarn 20 and lower than the melting point of the cover yarn 21, the core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the core yarn 20 of the pattern yarn 11 are bonded together without damaging the cover yarn 21, and effects such as the pattern yarn 11 not easily moving in the lace ground are realized.
[0075] Furthermore, because the lace fabric of this embodiment has a small knitting density and uses polyurethane yarn, it shrinks significantly after knitting and then stretches significantly when pulled. Therefore, when the finished lace fabric becomes part of a garment and the garment is repeatedly worn and washed, the stitches of the lace fabric stretch significantly many times. Conventionally, this repeated stretching of the stitches has caused the pattern yarn 11 to move from its regular position or slip out from the cut edge. However, in the lace fabric of this embodiment, the core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the core yarn 20 of the pattern yarn 11 are bonded together, so despite the small knitting density and the use of polyurethane yarn, the pattern yarn 11 is less likely to move or slip out.
[0076] Furthermore, the total fineness of the pattern yarns 11 is greater than the total fineness of the ground knitting yarns 10. Specifically, in the pattern yarns 11, the fineness of the core yarns 20 is 18 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less, and the total fineness of the covering yarns 21 is 78 dtex or more and 600 dtex or less. The thickness of the pattern yarns 11 makes the pattern stand out and gives the pattern a three-dimensional feel. However, because such thick pattern yarns 11 stand out, the appearance of the pattern is likely to deteriorate if they are displaced from their normal position on the lace ground. To address this problem, in the lace ground of this embodiment, the pattern yarns 11 are less likely to move as described above, so the appearance of the pattern is less likely to deteriorate despite the thickness of the pattern yarns 11.
[0077] In addition, in the pattern yarn 11, the fineness of the core yarn 20 is 18 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less, while the total fineness of the covering yarns 21 is 78 dtex or more and 600 dtex or less, so the core yarn 20 can be exposed appropriately between the covering yarns 21.
[0078] It is also used as the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11. Air interlaced yarn In the case of the woven fabric, the covering yarn 21 extends around the core yarn 20 in the same direction as the extension direction of the core yarn 20, and is entangled with the core yarn 20 at intertwined portions 22 present in places. Air interlaced yarnIn the relaxed state, part of the core yarn 20 is exposed, and in the stretched state, the exposed area of the core yarn 20 becomes even larger. Therefore, there are many bonded portions between the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11, and the bonded area at each bonded portion is also large. Therefore, the core yarn 20 does not easily move relative to the ground knit structure.
[0079] Furthermore, in the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11, the core yarn 20 is covered with the covering yarn 21, so the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 are less likely to bond excessively to the other yarns, resulting in a soft feel to the lace fabric.
[0080] It is also used as the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11. Air interlaced yarn In the unentangled portion, there are small gaps between the covering yarn 21 and the core yarn 20, and there are also small gaps between the covering yarns 21. Air interlaced yarn The texture is good, Air interlaced yarn When the yarns are used as the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11, the lace fabric has a soft feel.
[0081] Also, Air interlaced yarn The core yarn 20 is a polyurethane yarn that is difficult to dye, but since the core yarn 20 is covered with the covering yarn 21, Air interlaced yarn is easily stained.
[0082] Furthermore, if the pattern yarn 11 moves from its correct position after an ink print pattern has been formed on the surface of the lace fabric, the parts of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 that are not covered with ink will become exposed, resulting in a poor appearance. However, in this embodiment, as described above, the pattern yarn 11 is less likely to move from its correct position, so the problem of the parts of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 that are not covered with ink becoming exposed is less likely to occur.
[0083] Furthermore, if the finishing count is 25 courses / cm or more and 35 courses / cm or less, the feel of the lace ground tends to be soft. Also, if the runner length of the ground knitting yarn 10 is 110 cm or more and 150 cm or less, the feel of the lace ground tends to be soft.
[0084] In the method for manufacturing lace in this embodiment, a core yarn 20 and a covering yarn 21 having a melting point higher than that of the core yarn 20 are used. Air interlaced yarn are used as the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 to knit a lace fabric. Then, by heat treatment after knitting, the core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the core yarn 20 of the pattern yarn 11 melt, and the core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the core yarn 20 of the pattern yarn 11 are bonded together. This manufacturing method makes it possible to produce a lace fabric in which the pattern yarn 11 is less likely to move from its regular position or slip out from the cut edge.
[0085] 5. Example of changes The above-described embodiments are merely examples, and the scope of the invention is not limited to the above-described embodiments. Various modifications can be made to the above-described embodiments without departing from the spirit of the invention.
[0086] Several modified examples will be described below, but any one of the modified examples may be applied to the above embodiment, or any two or more of the modified examples may be applied in combination. Combinations can be made as freely as technically possible.
[0087] (1) Change example 1 The core yarn 20 of only one of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 may be a heat-fusible polyurethane yarn, and the other core yarn 20 may be a non-heat-fusible polyurethane yarn. A non-heat-fusible polyurethane yarn is, for example, a high-melting-point polyurethane yarn (i.e., a polyurethane yarn with a melting point exceeding 165°C). In this way, even if one of the core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the core yarn 20 of the pattern yarn 11 is a heat-fusible polyurethane yarn and the other is a non-heat-fusible polyurethane yarn, these core yarns 20 are both polyurethane yarns and therefore easily bonded. By bonding these core yarns 20 together and bonding the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11, the pattern yarn 11 is less likely to move from its correct position and the pattern yarn is less likely to slip out from the cut edge of the lace fabric.
[0088] When only the core yarn 20 of either the ground knitting yarn 10 or the pattern yarn 11 is a heat-fusible polyurethane yarn and the other core yarn 20 is a non-heat-fusible polyurethane yarn, it is easier to prevent movement of the pattern yarn 11 when only the core yarn 20 of the ground knitting yarn 10 is a heat-fusible polyurethane yarn. Of course, even if only the core yarn 20 of the pattern yarn 11 is a heat-fusible polyurethane yarn, the effect of preventing movement of the pattern yarn 11 is still achieved.
[0089] (2) Change example 2 The core yarn 20 of one or both of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 may be a yarn other than polyurethane yarn. Therefore, when the core yarns 20 of both the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 are heat-fusible yarns, one or both of these core yarns 20 may be a yarn other than polyurethane yarn. Furthermore, when only the core yarn 20 of one of the ground knitting yarn 10 and the pattern yarn 11 is a heat-fusible yarn, one or both of the core yarns 20 that are heat-fusible yarns and the core yarns 20 that are non-heat-fusible yarns may be a yarn other than polyurethane yarn.
[0090] (3) Change example 3 As shown in Figures 3 and 4 Air interlaced yarn is usable in the present invention Air interlaced yarn is just one example of . covered The undulation and loosening of the covering yarn 21 are not limited to the embodiments shown in Figures 3 and 4. It is preferable that there are gaps between the core yarn 20 and the covering yarn 21 and between the covering yarns 21, but the size of these gaps may be larger or smaller than the gaps shown in Figures 3 and 4.
[0092] ( 4 ) Change example 4 In the above embodiment, the ground knitting yarn 10 forms a chain stitch structure, but the ground knitting structure is not limited to this. For example, the ground knitting structure may be a tulle structure or a power net structure. Even when the ground knitting structure is a structure other than a chain stitch structure, it is preferable that a patterned yarn 11 is knitted into the ground knitting structure, and further, one or both of a jacquard yarn 12 and an elastic insert yarn 13 are knitted into the ground knitting structure.
[0093] Furthermore, the knitting structure of the pattern yarn 11, the jacquard yarn 12 and the elastic insert yarn 13 is not limited to those shown in FIGS. [Explanation of symbols]
[0094] 10...ground knitting yarn, 11...pattern yarn, 12...jacquard yarn, 13...elastic insert yarn, 20...core yarn, 21...covering yarn, 22...entanglement portion
Claims
1. In a lace fabric comprising a ground knitting yarn forming wales in which stitches are connected in the warp direction, and a pattern yarn having courses swung in the weft direction so as to span a plurality of the wales, The ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn are air-entangled yarns consisting of a core yarn and a covering yarn surrounding the core yarn, The core yarn of at least one of the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn is a heat-fusible yarn, In the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn, the covering yarn extends in the same direction as the extension direction of the core yarn, and is entangled with the core yarn at a plurality of entanglement portions that exist at intervals in the extension direction of the core yarn, In the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn, a part of the core yarn is exposed between the covering yarns, and the core yarn of the ground knitting yarn and the core yarn of the pattern yarn are bonded together, In at least some of the courses, the pattern yarn extends over 4 or more wales per course, It has jacquard yarns inserted over 1 to 3 wales, The total fineness of the pattern yarn is greater than the total fineness of the ground knitting yarn, and in the pattern yarn, the fineness of the core yarn is 18 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less, and the total fineness of the covering yarn is 78 dtex or more and 600 dtex or less. Lace fabric.
2. When the finishing thrust is X and the elongation is E, [Equation 1] 2. The lace ground according to claim 1, wherein the estimated on-machine thread depth Y calculated by the above formula is 8 courses / cm or more and 26 courses / cm or less.
3. A lace fabric as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein the total fineness of the patterned yarn is greater than the total fineness of the jacquard yarn.
4. 3. The lace ground according to claim 1, wherein a printed pattern is formed on the surface of the lace ground on the patterned threads by ink.
5. A method for manufacturing lace fabric, comprising knitting wales in which stitches are connected in the warp direction by using a ground knitting yarn fed from a ground reed, and knitting a design across a plurality of wales by swinging a pattern yarn fed from a pattern reed in the weft direction, As the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn, an air-entangled yarn is used, which is composed of a core yarn and a covering yarn which is disposed around the core yarn and has a melting point higher than that of the core yarn, The covering yarn is extended in the same direction as the extension direction of the core yarn, and is entangled with the core yarn at a plurality of intertwining portions that are spaced apart in the extension direction of the core yarn, and a portion of the core yarn is exposed between the covering yarns. By performing a heat treatment after the knitting, the core yarn of at least one of the ground knitting yarn and the pattern yarn is melted, thereby bonding the core yarn of the ground knitting yarn and the core yarn of the pattern yarn, In at least some of the courses, the pattern yarn is spread over four or more wales per course, Jacquard yarn is inserted over 1 to 3 wales, The pattern yarn has a total fineness greater than that of the ground knitting yarn, the core yarn has a fineness of 18 dtex or more and 78 dtex or less, and the covering yarn has a total fineness of 78 dtex or more and 600 dtex or less. How lace is made.
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