Manufacturing method of false twist textured yarn of acetate filament and manufacturing method of woven or knitted fabric

Abstract

To provide an acetate filament false twist yarn excellent in bulkiness and smooth touch and a woven or knitted fabric including the yarn.SOLUTION: A false twist yarn manufacturing method is a method for manufacturing an acetate filament false twist yarn having the total fineness of 50 to 190 dtex and single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex by applying steam set after 1 heater false twisting. It is preferable that temperature of 1 heater is 165 to 190°C, temperature of steam set is 100°C to 140°C, and time is 20 to 60 minutes.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for producing a false twist textured yarn of acetate filaments, the false twist textured yarn, and a woven fabric containing the false twist textured yarn. [Background technology]

[0002] Traditionally, 100% acetate filament yarn has mainly been processed as untwisted or twisted yarn, and although there are textile products made with false-twisted yarn, they have a rough texture. In addition, acetate filament has low strength, and false-twisting is time-consuming. On the other hand, false twisting was performed by combining it with polyester filaments, but due to issues such as color matching, it was necessary to increase the number of twists after compounding, which resulted in insufficient gloss and texture. Patent Document 1 discloses a textured yarn that is made by applying tension to acetate fibers during false twisting, resulting in a fluffy texture and sufficient physical properties during knitting and weaving. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0003] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2008-031605 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0004] However, although the textured yarn described in Patent Document 1 provides a fluffy feel, the resulting woven or knitted fabric has a strong dry feel, resulting in problems such as a rough texture.

[0005] The present invention aims to provide acetate filament false twist textured yarn, which has a fluffy feel and a smooth, pleasant texture, and a woven or knitted fabric containing the textured yarn. [Means for solving the problem]

[0006] The present invention has the following aspects. [1] A method for producing false-twisted acetate multifilament yarn having a total fineness of 50 to 190 dtex and a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex, which involves false-twisting with one heater and then steam setting. [2] The method for producing false twist textured yarn according to [1], wherein the temperature of the heater is 165 to 190°C. [3] The method for producing false twist textured yarn according to [1] or [2], wherein the steam setting temperature is 100°C to 140°C and the time is 20 to 60 minutes. [4] False twisted acetate multifilament yarn with a total fiber size of 50 to 190 dtex, a single fiber size of 0.8 to 3 dtex, and a crimp rate of 0.2 to 5%. [5] The false twist textured yarn according to [4], having a hot water shrinkage rate of 1.5% or less. [6] A woven or knitted fabric having a false twist textured yarn content of 40% by mass or more according to [4] or [5]. [Effects of the Invention]

[0007] The false twist textured yarn of the present invention can provide woven and knitted fabrics that are fluffy and have a smooth, comfortable, and soft touch. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The method for producing false twist textured yarn of the present invention is a method for producing false twist textured yarn of acetate filaments having a total fineness of 50 to 190 dtex and a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex, which is false twisted with one heater and then steam set. If the total fineness is 50 to 190 dtex, there will be less yarn breakage during the false twisting process and the processability will be good. From this viewpoint, the total fineness is preferably 60 to 180 dtex, and more preferably 80 to 170 dtex. The acetate filaments may be either diacetate filaments or triacetate filaments.

[0009] The textured yarn of the present invention preferably has a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex. If the single fiber fineness is 0.8 to 3 dtex, there is little fluffing or thread breakage during the false twisting process, and the processability is good, resulting in a soft, pleasant feel. From these viewpoints, the single fiber fineness is more preferably 1.3 to 2.8 dtex, and even more preferably 1.7 to 2.6 dtex.

[0010] In the method for producing false twist textured yarn of the present invention, false twisting is preferably carried out using one heater. There are two conditions for false twist processing: one heater and two heaters. Using one heater has the effect of maintaining the fluffy feel without reducing the crimp. In the method for producing false twist textured yarn of the present invention, the temperature of the first heater is preferably 165 to 190°C.

[0011] The temperature of heater 1 during false twisting of the textured yarn is preferably 165°C to 190°C. If the temperature is 165°C or higher, the woven or knitted fabric will have a fluffy feel after dyeing, and if it is 190°C or lower, pilling and thread breakage will be suppressed, allowing for stable production. From these viewpoints, the temperature of the first heater is more preferably 170°C to 185°C.

[0012] The textured yarn of the present invention is preferably subjected to steam setting after false twisting with one heater. Steam setting helps woven and knitted fabrics maintain their fullness after dyeing.

[0013] In the method for producing false twist textured yarn of the present invention, the temperature of steam setting after false twisting is preferably 100°C to 140°C and the time is preferably 20 to 60 minutes. If the steam setting temperature after false twisting is 100°C, the woven or knitted fabric will have a fluffy feel after dyeing, and if it is 140°C or less, the difference between the inner and outer layers of the yarn will be reduced and the quality will be stable. From these viewpoints, the steam setting temperature after false twisting is more preferably 110°C or higher, and even more preferably 120°C or higher. If the steam setting time is 20 minutes or more, the crimp is set and the fluffiness is easily maintained, and if it is 60 minutes, the crimp is sufficiently set. From these viewpoints, the steam setting time is more preferably 30 to 55 minutes, and even more preferably 35 to 50 minutes.

[0014] The false twist textured yarn of the present invention is made of acetate filaments having a total fineness of 50 to 190 dtex, a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 3 dtex, and a crimp rate of 0.2 to 5%. If the total fineness is 50 dtex or more, a woven or knitted fabric with a fluffy feel can be obtained, and if the total fineness is 190 dtex or less, the woven or knitted fabric will not be heavy and a smooth texture will be easily obtained. From these viewpoints, the total fineness is preferably 60 to 180 dtex, more preferably 80 to 170 dtex. Furthermore, if the single fiber fineness is 0.8 dtex or more, there is little fuzzing or yarn breakage during the false twisting process, and the quality is stable. If the single fiber fineness is 3 dtex or less, it is easy to obtain a fluffy and smooth texture. From these viewpoints, the single fiber fineness is more preferably 1.3 to 2.8 dtex, and even more preferably 1.7 to 2.6 dtex.

[0015] The false twisted yarn of the present invention preferably has a crimp rate of 0.2 to 5%. If the crimp rate is 0.2 to 5%, a woven or knitted fabric having a smooth, soft feel and a good sense of volume can be obtained. From this viewpoint, the crimp percentage is more preferably from 0.5 to 4.5%, and further preferably from 1.0 to 3.5%.

[0016] The false twist textured yarn of the present invention preferably has a hot water shrinkage rate of 1.5% or less. If the hot water shrinkage rate is 1.5% or less, the dry feeling caused by shrinkage is suppressed and a soft texture is easily obtained.

[0017] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably contains the false twisted yarn in an amount of 40% by mass or more. If the content of the false twisted yarn is 40% by mass or more, the texture will be soft and fluffy, and the fabric will tend to have the luster unique to acetate fiber. From this viewpoint, the content of the false twisted yarn is preferably 60% by mass or more, more preferably 80% by mass or more, and even more preferably 100% by mass. However, it can also be combined with other materials to achieve the desired look. Examples of yarn materials that can be combined include synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, regenerated fibers such as rayon and cupra, and natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool, and silk.

[0018] (Method of manufacturing false twisted yarn) The conditions for producing the false twisted yarn of the present invention are preferably such that the feed rate of the false twisted yarn is not less than -5% and less than 1%. -By false twisting at a feed rate of 5% or more, the runnability of the yarn becomes stable. Also, by setting the feed rate to 1% or less, the occurrence of fluffing and yarn breakage is reduced. The false twist number is preferably 11,000 × D-1 / 2≦T≦28,000 × D-1 / 2 (D: single fiber fineness (dtex)). If the false twist number is 11,000 × D-1 / 2 or more, the occurrence of fluffing and yarn breakage can be suppressed, and if it is 28,000 × D-1 / 2 or less, a sufficient fluffy feel can be obtained. Furthermore, it is desirable that the winding overfeed rate be 3.0% to 9.0%. By setting the overfeed rate of winding to 3.0% or more, the difference between the inner and outer layers due to steam setting can be reduced, and by setting it to 9.0% or less, the yarn unwinding properties during the production process of woven and knitted fabrics will be stable. [Example]

[0019] (Method for measuring crimp rate) Using a measuring device with a circumference of 1 m, a 10-m skein was made by winding 10 turns under a load of 0.01 cN / dtex. The skein was then treated in hot water at 90°C for 20 minutes, and then dried in a free state for 24 hours at a temperature of 20°C and a humidity of 65%. A load of 1.96 cN / dtex was applied to the dried sample, and the length L1 (cm) after 1 minute was measured. The load was then removed and the sample was left unloaded for 2 minutes. A load of 0.04 cN / dtex was then applied, and the length L2 (cm) after 1 minute was measured, and the crimp percentage was calculated using the following formula. This measurement was performed five times, and the average value was used. Crimp rate (%)=((L1-L2) / L1)×100

[0020] (Method for measuring hot water shrinkage) Conforms to JIS L 1013 Hot water dimensional change rate.

[0021] Example 1 A cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, Bright 110 dtex / 64 filament (f), single yarn chrysanthemum cross section, moisture content 3.5%) was false-twisted at a heater temperature of 175°C to obtain a false-twist textured yarn. The resulting yarn was steam-set at 117°C for 40 minutes. The resulting textured yarn had a fineness of 111 dtex, a crimp rate of 2.9%, and a hot water shrinkage rate of -0.4%. This textured yarn was used as the warp and weft to weave a twill fabric. This grey fabric was scoured and dyed in the usual way, and then set to a warp density of 142 threads / inch and a weft density of 86 threads / inch. The resulting fabric had a soft, fluffy texture and a refreshing, comfortable feel derived from cellulosic fibers. The fabric also had a luxurious, elegant luster reminiscent of silk fabric.

[0022] Example 2 The textured yarn used in Example 1 was used as the warp and weft to weave a plain fabric. This grey fabric was scoured and dyed in the usual way, and then set to a warp density of 90 threads / inch and a weft density of 75 threads / inch. The resulting fabric had a soft, fluffy texture and a refreshing, comfortable feel derived from cellulosic fibers. The fabric also had a luxurious, elegant luster reminiscent of spun silk fabric.

[0023] Example 3 The textured yarn used in Example 1 was used as the warp and weft to weave a satin fabric. This grey fabric was scoured and dyed in the usual way, and then set to a warp density of 175 threads / inch and a weft density of 85 threads / inch. The resulting fabric had a soft, fluffy texture and a refreshing, comfortable feel derived from cellulosic fibers. The fabric also had a luxurious, elegant luster reminiscent of silk fabric.

[0024] Example 4 A textured yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the false twist textured yarn was steam set at 130°C for 40 minutes. The textured yarn obtained had a fineness of 112 dtex, a crimp percentage of 2.9%, and a hot water shrinkage percentage of -0.3%. This textured yarn was used as the warp and weft to weave a twill fabric. This grey fabric was scoured and dyed in the usual way, and then set to a warp density of 140 threads / inch and a weft density of 83 threads / inch. The resulting fabric had a soft, fluffy feel, a refreshing, comfortable texture derived from cellulosic fibers, and an elegant luster reminiscent of silk fabric.

[0025] (Comparative Example 1) A cellulose triacetate fiber filament yarn (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, Bright 84 dtex / 20 filaments (f), single yarn chrysanthemum cross section, moisture content 3.5%) was false-twisted at a heater temperature of 170°C to obtain a false-twist textured yarn. The resulting yarn was steam-set at 130°C for 40 minutes. The resulting textured yarn had a fineness of 85 dtex, a crimp rate of 0.6%, and a hot water shrinkage rate of 0.0%. This textured yarn was used as the warp and weft to weave a twill fabric. This grey fabric was scoured and dyed in the usual way, and then set to a warp density of 165 threads / inch and a weft density of 98 threads / inch. The resulting woven fabric had a fluffy feel due to the large single fiber fineness, but had a rough texture.

Claims

1. A method for producing false twist textured yarn made of acetate multifilament having a total fiber size of 50 to 190 dtex and a single fiber size of 0.8 to 3 dtex, the method comprising: false twisting the yarn with one heater, followed by steam setting; The method for producing false twisted yarn, wherein the steam setting temperature is 100°C to 140°C and the time is 20 to 60 minutes.

2. The method for producing false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the temperature of the heater is 165 to 190°C.

3. A method for producing a false twisted yarn as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein the crimp rate of the false twisted yarn is 0.2 to 5%.

4. A method for producing a false twisted yarn described in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hot water shrinkage rate of the false twisted yarn is 1.5% or less.

5. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric using a false twist textured yarn obtained by the method for producing false twist textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising: A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric, wherein the false twist textured yarn content is 40% by mass or more.